fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, April 20 1998 Volume 02 : Number 223



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: head gaskets and compression question [George Herpich
Re: Removing Old Headers ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Pwr steering assisted Pwr brakes [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Last Year for 6 volt [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
Ex valve [am14 chrysler.com]
Trucks for sale ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Anvil/rubber hammer [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Electric fuel pump-? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: head gaskets and compression question [Sleddog ]
RE: Soaked Brake Shoes [Sleddog ]
Re: C-6 troubles ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Trannies etc. ["John LaGrone" ]
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes ["Bill Beyer" ]
Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc. ["Bill Beyer" ]
Reverse 35MPH [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: C-6 troubles [Sleddog ]
RE: Trannies etc. [Sleddog ]
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes ["Deacon" ]
Re: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc. ["Deacon" ]
Power brakes ["John LaGrone" ]
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc. ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: head gaskets and compression question [sdelanty sonic.net]
Spare Tire Mount ["PAUL MONTY" ]
Re: Spare Tire Mount [Stu Varner ]
Re: Soaked Brake Shoes ["Deacon" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 06:51:33 -0400
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question

I had a 361 FT doing that that I never did figure out. Tried head gaskets and
sent the heads out to be maged and surfaced. Still made milkshakes in the
radiator. This was in a ten yard dump and they usually got 100 k out of an
engine. It still ran good so I ended up flushing the rad every week and
running tide detergent in it for an hour or so and flushing again. There had
to be a crack somewhere but I never found it. It was an old truck and the
boss wouldn't let me spend much time looking either.
George

Sleddog wrote:

> anyone ever have oil in the coolant, a overheating (sometimes) engine but
> that shows very good compression? if so, what did you do about it??
>
> sleddog
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:04:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Removing Old Headers

> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 22:22:26 -0400
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Removing Old Headers

> I was also wonder in if it is true that it would be illegal to run
> the tail pipes out in front of the tires? ( I live in Pennsylvannia)

All new ford trucks have the exhaust coming out in front of the
tires. If it were illegal in even one state they would probably not
do it that way. I've heard that this method is actually better for
exhaust exclusion from the cab than behind the wheel?? On broncos
and vans and wagons etc. it's better than coming out the rear I would
think. My Pu comes out the rear but there's a lot of acreage between
it and the cab in that case.


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:48:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: dreaming/b...sing/460's & sleepers
> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 18:11:56 -0400

> it is performance before looks, not without it. but, many times
> projects
> tend to be ended, forgotton, or otherwise never finished no matter
> how much we want them to be perfect. especially as younger people i
> think many of us in the sport/hobby tend to jump into something and
> later find that we may be over our heads, and then abandon it for
> something "better". but before a project is finished or even close
> to it, it is fun to drive it around as a "roach"

I can relate to this. How many times have I fixed up the chassis and
engine only to let the body rot till I finally give up on it and
junk it out. One advantage to fixing up the chassis and engine first
is that you can always find a rust free vehicle that the parts will
bolt in to later if your project vehicle dies. My 460/C-6 combo have
been in two vehicles so far and if I don't get to work on the body
may wind up in yet another one. The tires and wheels on my bronco
have been on two other vehicles but will probably die finally on the
bronco.

OTOH you can fix up a body and put umpteen power trains in it too but
it seems like my first priority is always getting it to run so I can
drive it..............:-)

BTW, I never knew "sleeper" has such a tight definition. I always
just figured it was a junker with a hot motor. Junker means
different things to different folks I suppose. To me it's anything
that aint new or new looking, to others is may mean at least one
fender has to be flapping.......:-) My lincoln is a junker but looks
better than either one of my trucks :-) If I had a 429 in my 94
TBird I'd consider that a sleeper also since no one would expect an
"engine" in such a car. (would be fun though wouldn't it?)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:23:27 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Pwr steering assisted Pwr brakes

Gary writes:>>My 78 town car has this brake system. I'm thinking very
seriously about putting it to good use in the bronco. What do y'all
think?

Go for it Gary!!! The factory doesn't do it for economical reasons,
I'm quite sure. Vacuum is more or less free on non-turboed gasoline
powered engines, and this is the reason for The Manufacturers using
Vacuum assist, I think. There is no reason the pwr steering assisted
brakes couldn't be adapted to your Bronco, and you just might be
getting a better system.

Don't forget to keep the list updated.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:27:04 -0400
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
Subject: RE: Last Year for 6 volt

The last year of the 6 volt F series trucks was 55.
Ford back then, used up all the parts from previous
years, so its possible some of them were 6 volt.

In 55, they also changed from cloth covered wire to
PVC wire.

Rich
54 F100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:59:25 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Ex valve

Drew writes: >>While I'm thinking about it, is warming the engine
supposed to be the purpose of the exhaust manifold heat control valve
doohickey I have on my truck?

If you are speaking of the "butterfly valve" located in the Exhaust
manifold - this is to supply heat to the intake manifold directly
underneath the carburetor for assisting in vaporization purposes.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:01:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Trucks for sale

I've been noting the trucks listed in the posts and happened to see a
fellow in Tecumseh, MI is selling a 78/79 F-150 and a bronco both
pretty rusty and well flogged. Been meaning to stop by and say hi
just cuz he's a ford man so if anyone in the area is interested I can
stop by and get a price if you like. Please don't ask just out of
curiosity tho. If you are really interested, knowing they are not
especially pretty give me a holler :-) The bronco has some pretty
big tires on it, don't know the size just look big and I know he
flogged them cuz I've seen them around all muddy many times.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:07:06 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Anvil/rubber hammer

William Ballinger Writes: >>Some people can screw up an anvil with a
rubber hammer.

And when did you get to know My baby daughter????????

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:19:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump-?

> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 05:05:00 -0400
> From: "THE PAVIES'"
> Subject: Electric fuel pump-?

> Whenever I start my truck, I have to sit in it for 10 minutes
> working the gas pedal to keep it from stalling until it warms up.
> It's a 76 F250 360 with manual choke on the original carb (2100-?).
> I was thinking that an electric fuel pump might solve the problem.

You should be able to make it run smoothly with a choke adjustment.
The fuel pump has nothing to do with it if it runs well after it
warms up. The mechanical pump can be left in place and the the fuel
pumped from the tank up to it. Even if the mechanical pump fails
the fuel will pass through it.

> spotted a 78 F250 4wd supercab
> around underneath and found no rust under the cab, even at the body
> supports behind the front wheels. The doors had some rust and the

I doubt if you will get a 4x4 F-250 in "any" condition for $100 but
if you can get it for less than $500 and don't mind a LOT of work to
fix up the drive train it's a bargain in my book. I'll put it like
this, if I could find one in that shape for $500 and all the drive
line parts were intact I'd snap it up in a second just for the
chassis and drive line. I paid $250 for two dana 44 front axles once
and thought I got a real deal. Now I believe I just paid what they
were worth but it was still Ok by me since they did what I bought
them for (still have them)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:26:33 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: head gaskets and compression question

that's one source i didn't think of, but it certainly doesn't smell like tranny fluid and the tranny's oil level hasn't changed any.

i'll be borrowing a radiater pressure trester tonight hopefully so i'll pressurize the cooling system and see if i can find any leaks.

thank you
sleddog

- ----------
From: OldTrux[SMTP:OldTrux aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 1998 10:36 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question

In a message dated 98-04-19 21:25:01 EDT, you write:

>
If you have automatic transmission, your trans cooler is located in the
radiator (separate tube runs through the radiator core). If your trans cooler
line leaks, because the trans oil pressure is higher than the radiator
pressure, it will leal trans fluid into the radiator. A radiator shop can fix
it or remove the trans lines and run them through a separate aftermarket
cooler. ( cap off the fittings on the radiator)





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:29:50 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Soaked Brake Shoes

brake cleaner. CRC is my prferred brand, but any will do. this stuff is
the most vital canned substance that automotive stores sell. except oil of
course. laquer thinner will most likely work too.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Jon E Purut[SMTP:pickup65 juno.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 1998 11:31 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Soaked Brake Shoes

Does anyone know the best way to clean brake fluid out of brake shoes?
Can it be done?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:11:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C-6 troubles

> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: C-6 troubles
> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:43:35 -0500

> While on C-6's a little trick I've learned is that if you get some
> trash in your governor, usually after changing out a fried trans,
> this can cause erratic shifting. Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in
> Park. It will clean out the governor. The first time I saw it done I

The parking pawl on the C-6 is spring loaded into place so when you
shift into park at speed all it will do is clatter like mad till the
speed gets low enough for it to drop into one of the holes. When it
does you can expect some damage if it's moving fast enough but
generally won't till it's moving pretty slow. Since both mating
parts are steel, little damage is likely unless it does hook up at
speed.

The governor in the C-6 has an aluminum piston, spring loaded inward
which acts as a spool valve. As the shaft speeds up the piston moves
outward opening up various ports which allow the shifts. The only
part in this assy I know of that can cause probelms is the piston
when even the tinyest particle gets between it and the cylinder wall
it rides in. Once this happens you have to buy a new governor in my
experience. I tried to repair one twice and gave up. Visually it
looked like it should work but once you damage the surfaces on either
the piston or cylinder wall it's junk. If the problem is port
blockage the park method may work, otherwise it's a new governor.
The piston and spring are so light and the fit so precise it simply
doesn't tolerate any damage.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:59:02 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: Trannies etc.

I think I'll open a transmission shop specializing in repairs to C6's whose
owners played Russian roulette with the shifter....

Inside the transmission are clutches that lock up to give you different
gears, depending on which clutches are engaged. Typically, reverse engages
all clutches, Drive engages none (not OD). If you ever took apart the rear
wheel innards on a bicycle with a coaster brake, these clutches are very
similar to these innards in design. The first plate in each transmission
clutch has a lot to do with how smooth an auto transmission shifts,
assuming that it is CLEAN and has no other mechanical failures. The plate
needs to have a slight wave to it to shift smoothly. The 1-2 clutch usually
has a flatter plate and so usuually shifts harder. When you do a rebuild,
put the old plate from the 2-3 clutch in your 1-2 clutch for a smoother
shift from the first time you roll. If this is above your understanding, go
to a shop where there are some dismantled trannies and look at them.
Rebuilding automatic transmissions is not for the faint at heart. Pay
attention to what came from where and EXACLY how it was bolted together.
Been there, done that.

Always use a six sided socket or box end wrench on those rusted manifold
bolts. Raw power is definitely not what you need or you will suddenly have
a studded cylinder head. Of course when a bolt breaks off, don't panic.
After you get the manifold off you can use more penetrating oil (or WD40)
and some Vise Grips. Been there, done that, too.

When you acquire a new project, look for a vehicle that is strong where you
are weak. If you can do engines, get one with a strong body and vice versa.
Personally, when I am shopping and I look under the hood of anything that
has more than 5K miles on it and you can eat off of the intake manifold, I
close the hood and walk away. 99% of the motoring public do not clean under
the hood until they are ready to sell and hide something. 99% of the
motoring public buy based on looks rather than utility. 99% of the people
on this list fall into the 1%. I don't care if there are leaks, I just want
to know where and how bad before I plunk down the cash. Leaks I can fix. I
once put a whole, assembled engine in a truck dirt and all. Internally it
was sound and the truck was for work, not show. Pine needles give character.

Exhaust system setup on my F150: Y-pipe to one catylitic converter, short
single pipe to muffler, duals outlets over the axle. In Texas, the outlet
has to be beyond the passenger compartment. That makes sense, you don't
want the exhaust sucked in while you are going down the road. In front of
the rear wheels is OK, heck it doesn't even have to exit the body sides,
you can just end under the truck bed somewhere. On a Bronco, you probaly
need to stay with the stock location: behind the rear wheels, on the side.
If you go straight out the back of the Bronco, NEVER drive with your rear
window down and make sure all of your tailgate seals seal. No reputable
exhaust shop would ever put the exhaust straight out the back on this type
vehicle and no one should. Examine the laws in your state when deciding
exhaust configurations. Next, examine your vehicle's slip stream so you
don't poison yourself; legal could still be deadly.

My wife's line, "And just where do you plan on parking that? Certainly not
in front of MY house!!"

Alternate line, "I'm not getting in THAT."

- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
1979 MC (my son is rebellious)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:18:57 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

Unfortunately your shoes are toast. No one I've ever heard of has advocated
reusing brake shoes that were soaked with fluid. If they're semi metallic
you might get away with it but if they're organic they will literally soak
up the brake fluid. For safeties sake you're probably better off just
replacing them.

- ----------
> From: Jon E Purut
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Soaked Brake Shoes
> Date: Sunday, April 19, 1998 8:31 PM
>
> Does anyone know the best way to clean brake fluid out of brake shoes?
> Can it be done?
>
> I pulled the rear passenger brake drum off the F500 today to find out
> why fluid was gushing out of the system. The lower wheel cylinder turned
> out to be leaking like a sieve. The shoes were totally soaked in fluid
> but they look practically new otherwise. I would like to save them if I
> can.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:30:31 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc.

Unless you're Deacon in which case you have the exhaust plumbed directly
into the cab...;-)

- ----------
> From: John LaGrone
> To: Ford Trucks 61-79
> Subject: Trannies etc.
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 7:59 AM
>
> Exhaust system setup on my F150: Y-pipe to one catylitic converter, short
> single pipe to muffler, duals outlets over the axle. In Texas, the outlet
> has to be beyond the passenger compartment. That makes sense, you don't
> want the exhaust sucked in while you are going down the road. In front of
> the rear wheels is OK, heck it doesn't even have to exit the body sides,
> you can just end under the truck bed somewhere. On a Bronco, you probaly
> need to stay with the stock location: behind the rear wheels, on the
side.
> If you go straight out the back of the Bronco, NEVER drive with your rear
> window down and make sure all of your tailgate seals seal. No reputable
> exhaust shop would ever put the exhaust straight out the back on this
type
> vehicle and no one should. Examine the laws in your state when deciding
> exhaust configurations. Next, examine your vehicle's slip stream so you
> don't poison yourself; legal could still be deadly.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:14:17 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Reverse 35MPH

William writes: >>Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in Park. It will
clean out the governor. The first time I saw it done I thought
"sheee****t!!!", but it worked like a charm, with no collateral
damage.

Now I think this is not sound advise. If (granted it isn't likely) it
were to catch in park it will lock it down and could possibly tear up
much more than just the transmission., as well as put the vehicle in
an uncontrollable spin. Might just clean out a whole bunch of things
(stuff).

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:32:39 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: C-6 troubles

after the experience i had accidentilly grabbing reverse at super legal
speeds i would never suggest to anyone dropping into park or reverse even
at a "slow" 35 mph. that's just asking for personal injury, vehicle damage
or worse. keep doing that little trick, and somethings bound to happen. i
am not the most safety conscious person and have even been told i am
downright ^#% *&! crazy, but i'll never do that one! (reverse lockout
coming on next shifter, there's a reason NHRA requires it!)

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Monday, April 20, 1998 6:11 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: C-6 troubles

> From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
> Subject: C-6 troubles
> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 10:43:35 -0500

> While on C-6's a little trick I've learned is that if you get some
> trash in your governor, usually after changing out a fried trans,
> this can cause erratic shifting. Get up to 35 or so and stuff it in
> Park. It will clean out the governor. The first time I saw it done I

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:37:39 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Trannies etc.

good advice john! that's they way i always looked at it.

sleddog

- ----------
From: John LaGrone[SMTP:jmlagron tenet.edu]
Sent: Monday, April 20, 1998 10:59 AM
To: Ford Trucks 61-79
Subject: Trannies etc.


When you acquire a new project, look for a vehicle that is strong where you
are weak.

- -John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:48:34 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

From: Bill Beyer
>Unfortunately your shoes are toast. No one I've ever heard of has
advocated
>reusing brake shoes that were soaked with fluid. If they're semi
metallic
>you might get away with it but if they're organic they will literally
soak
>up the brake fluid. For safeties sake you're probably better off just
>replacing them.

Do you know how much they'll want for brakes on an F500? You need to
go to a real truck parts store for them. At the prices they'll charge,
not even toast is toast! :) I have read all the warnings about brake
fluid leaks on the shoes their not cleanable but I've done it on my bike
many times. Only a couple times on the truck. Try bleeding brakes on a
bike and never soak the pads. Too many moving parts to make sure the
hose stays on the bleeder! You need to clean them with something that
will lift the crap out of the lining, evaporates quickly and doesn't
leave a residue. I forgot that I did a final clean with CRC Brake
cleaner until Sleddog said to use it. This stuff will take the oil out
of Texas. MEK will leave a powdery film that needs to be removed. I use
CRC a lot on the bikes. I don't take the truck or van brakes apart until
they need brakes. Then I just use it on the parts I'm not replacing.
Normally I wouldn't have replied to this because your correct in it
being a matter of safety, but if Jon decides to try and clean them, I
wanted to be sure he used brake cleaner on them and not just MEK. So
don't go getting all bent out of shape Bill. I'm not correcting you, I'm
correcting me. OK! :)

Deacon
deconblu gte.net
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:18:33 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc.

From: Bill Beyer
>Unless you're Deacon in which case you have the exhaust plumbed
directly
>into the cab...;-)

Hey now, that was only because I ran out of money! I spent too much
on my NOS. Funny, running the lines from the Nitrous bottle once they
reached the cab I ran out of money for that too. I'm starting to think
I'm only trying to fool myself with this running out of money excuse.
What the heck, the brain cells I'm killing are weak and a burden on the
strong ones that have survived! :)


Deacon
deconblu gte.net
==============================================
Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm
==============================================
Deacon's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:29:00 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: Power brakes

The hydraulic boost systems have more boost when they are active, but you
better have some serious leg muscles if your engine dies and you want to
stop (while you are trying to steer). There is also a huge strain on the
system if you are stopped on a solid surface, clamped down hard on the
brakes, and turning the steering wheel. Sounds like a steep hill scenario.
A loose belt, low fluid, and/or worn components results in no steering or
reduced steering and sometimes a stalled engine. I don't intend to condemn
the system, just publish some quircks. Once or twice I nailed the brakes
and killed the engine while in motion, but my engine needed a good tuneup
badly.

- -John

jmlagron tenet.edu
1979 F150 Custom 351M C6
1988 Towncar 5.0 EFI AOD
1979 MC (my son is rebellious)

Dearborn iron rules!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:33:52 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

No I've never bought any parts for an F500 but it wouldn't surprise me if
they were outrageously expensive. However I did see a set of El Gyppo
organic brake shoes from a half ton which were soaked with fluid and the
lining separated (in pieces) from the shoe. I have also seen semi metallic
shoes that looked like they would clean up just fine after being pretty
well doused.

Most of my experience comes from working in a professional shop where it
just doesn't pay to take those kinds of chances with the customer so
anytime there was the slightest question of safety we replaced the shoes.
As far as shadetree mechanics goes, hey whatever floats your boat! If they
clean up good and seem pretty sound go for it!

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 9:48 AM
>
> Normally I wouldn't have replied to this because your correct in it
> being a matter of safety, but if Jon decides to try and clean them, I
> wanted to be sure he used brake cleaner on them and not just MEK. So
> don't go getting all bent out of shape Bill. I'm not correcting you, I'm
> correcting me. OK! :)
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:35:32 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc.

That's right, what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Exhaust...was:Re: Trannies etc.
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 10:18 AM
>
> What the heck, the brain cells I'm killing are weak and a burden on the
> strong ones that have survived! :)
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 10:42:39 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: head gaskets and compression question

sleddog wrote:
>anyone ever have oil in the coolant, a overheating (sometimes) engine but
>that shows very good compression? if so, what did you do about it??

I've seen it twice. Once on a 240/6 that had a 2" long crack in
#1 cylinder near the bottom of the bore. With the piston at BDC only
about 1/2" of the crack extended above the piston top. It was hard to
spot and I had to take the head off *3* times before I found it. )-:
Cure: new 300/6 short block

The other time was a non-Ford that had a head gasket leak from a coolant
passage to the valley area.
Cure: resurface head and block deck surfaces and replace head gaskets.

I hope Yours is just a head gasket...

Steve

Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:30:56 -0700
From: "PAUL MONTY"
Subject: Spare Tire Mount

Just about to fire up the re-birthed 390 to see if it runs with the too
expensive Edelbrock heads. One thing I don't like about the heads is that
they only accept one brand/type of spark plug--gasketed Champions. A lot
of plugs have gaskets but the Champions are the only ones with a small
enough hex head that it'll go down into the counterbore and still allow a
deep-socket to turn it in. Actually, my Craftsman deep socket wouldn't
work as its walls were too thick so I bought a cheap one from the Napa
dealer and it'll run the plugs down without kissing the counterbore.

More on the heads after I fire this thing up--hopefully tonight with
daylight savings time onboard now and no rain here in CA. I pulled the old
muffler system out and on the left side (my truck has the auxillary tank) I
had to remove the spare to manuever the muffler out because of the up-over
bend for the tailpipe at the rearend.

Don't want to have to do this one more time! In the 28 years I've had the
truck I've only pulled the spare twice now, but that's two too many! Can
anyone suggest methods or mounts that are easier than the Ford system used
on the F-250? Holding up the 16.5 rim isn't easy... I know it's been a
few years since I powerlifted--gave that up at 40, but I'm not totally
wimped-out yet and that dead weight is heavy!

To be continued.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:08:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Mount

A (my truck has the auxillary tank) I
>had to remove the spare to manuever the muffler out because of the up-over
>bend for the tailpipe at the rearend.
>
>Don't want to have to do this one more time! In the 28 years I've had the
>truck I've only pulled the spare twice now, but that's two too many! Can
>anyone suggest methods or mounts that are easier than the Ford system used
>on the F-250?

Paul, can I have the old spare tire mounting assembly from your truck if you
replace it?? I'll gladly pay you for it. My 71 has no under bed spare tire
carrier at all and I need one to make the resto perfect.

Thanks STU

Nuke GM!

visit my home page at www.pscico.com/stu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:22:40 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Soaked Brake Shoes

From: Bill Beyer
>Most of my experience comes from working in a professional shop where
it
>just doesn't pay to take those kinds of chances with the customer so
>anytime there was the slightest question of safety we replaced the
shoes.

You are absolutely right in those conditions my friend. I thought
this truck was on a farm and this wouldn't pose that much of a threat
even if the liner did come loose. I've lived in the city all my life so
my idea of living / driving on a farm is if you hit something it was
already a veggie. :)
I could see the condition of the brakes on my truck and after I....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.