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Return-Path: Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:17:38 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #22 Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, January 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 022 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FE for me! [John Pajak ] Head gaskets [am14 4X4 Frame [am14 Header Wrap [Keith Srb ] Re: Easy Off [John MacNamara ] Stop sending!!!! [Clayton Brown ] Re: Dana update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Spark Plug Wire Resistance [Serian ] 360/390 ?? [Serian ] F350 [am14 Re: Roller chains? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Header Wrap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Fun Stuff [sdelanty 77 351M Head Gasket Job [Gregg Park ] Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket ["Dave Resch"] Re: Roller chains? [Adam Clever ] Re: 360/390 ?? [marko Re: "64 F350 ["JAMES MERLO" ] Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL ["Dale and Donna Carmine" Project Truck, FTV2 #19 [Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more [Ken Payne RE: Header Wrap [Sleddog ] RE: ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more [Sleddog ] 460 and C-6 in my "71 F-100 ["Don Wignall" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:06:23 -0800 (PST) From: John Pajak Subject: FE for me! - ---Dave Resch wrote: > > In a nutshell, I guess the main thing about this list that makes me look > forward to every single digest is that it seems to have a spirit of > camaraderie that comes from sharing a common interest in older Ford > trucks that you fix and take care of and modify and upgrade yourself. > > !!!!! > Right on Dave! Even though my primary hobby is old Oldsmobiles, I > do have Ford blue in my veins also! My 75 F100 and my 68 Fairlane > station wagon provide my Ford Fix of mechanical fun, Dearborn style. > This list has been a great help already :) > Hopefully soon I can get the F100's 360 converted over to 390 > configuration real soon! I have already collected a 390 crank > (010/010)and , 390 rods. I'm going to buy a rebuild kit with 390 > pistons and off I will go! But I do have a question! Which cam? The > truck has 30" tires and 3.50 gears. I have AC, PS, PDB. I'd like > towing power and daily drivability...not a race truck. I've been told > the old 390 4v cam would work for me....isn't the Edelbrock Performer > cam a clone of the 390 4v cam? I also have a Performer intake and 600 > and/or 750 vacuum Holleys to choose from. I'll also put on dual > exhaust but I want to keep the stock exhaust manifolds. > > === > John Pajak JSPajak > Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak > > 75 F100 > 68 Fairlane SW > Looking for a 61 Starliner or 64 Galaxie _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:24:33 -0500 From: am14 Subject: Head gaskets I think you'll find that FE's and 335's and 385's all have the same deal. All the headgasket sets I remember seeing have been marked on one end "FRONT", and you bettrer put that end on the front, cause if you don't, you cut off some circulation thru the head if not all. Will do exactly what your instructor said- Overheat in a heartbeat. >>My instructor said, "I bet you'll find they put the head gaskets on backwards." and he was right. I don't think they are marked, either, but there is a big water passage hole that must go to the rear of the engine. This has been more than 15 years ago so my memory is somewhat fuzzy but I just wanted to offer something. Azie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:50:19 -0500 From: am14 Subject: 4X4 Frame Wayne: I have a 1975 naked frame. I live in Alabama 1mile south of Tennessee line and 2 miles east of I65. (Given for map reference.) The truck burned up and I stripped everything off the frame. I was going to use it but have changed my mind. E-mail me interested. >>I found a 1976 F-350 2-wheel drive truck for sale. The guy wants the rearend out of it & I can buy it for $200.00!!!! Does anybody know where I can find a 1978/1979 F-250/F-350 4x4 frame. Azie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:39:50 -0700 From: Keith Srb Subject: Header Wrap HI all, Have any of you used Header Wrap? Which Brand? Was it worth it? Have any of you used Ceramic Coatings on your Headers? Which Brand? Was it worth it? What about the Jet Hot Coatings? Thanks! Later Keith Srb herbie http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie Mesa, AZ 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side. 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 06:58:34 -0800 From: John MacNamara Subject: Re: Easy Off Gary, 78 BBB wrote: > > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:15:39 -0800 > > From: John MacNamara > > Subject: Re: Easy Off > > > would wipe right off. I accidentally dropped some on the fender and > > ruined the clear coat that was on there. It's a ten year old paint > > job so didn't bum me out to much. > > > > For anybody who needs good stripper, I can highly reccomend it. > > Now all we need is some under coating and grease and rust stripper > that works like that and I can get rid of my blaster :-) Gary: Do you have one of those metal stripping places like Redi-Off near you. There's one in the San Fernando Valley and I'm constantly taking parts to him that I don't want to mess with. The stripping removes paint,grease,rust and anything else you don't want on the metal. It's pretty much ready for painting when you're done. Have you ever tried to removing the rust on brake rotor fins? The stripping process will take all the rust off right down to bare metal. I think they have a web page so I will look and see if I can find it. Thanks John 78 F250 4X4 Supercab 67 GT500 66 Corvette 64 427 L/R 67 427 M/R 68 427 71 ZL1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:59:31 -0800 From: Clayton Brown Subject: Stop sending!!!! Dear Ford Trucks, We would appreiciate it very much if you would STOP sending us the email two times a day. We DO NOT want it so could you please stop sending it. Thank You brownc ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:25:14 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Dana update > From: JRFiero > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:42:19 EST > Subject: Re: Dana update > > though, like > alluminum. > >> > Fair warning. My Ducati side cases will never be the same. Haven't > touched the stuff since. Probably just what I'm looking for then. Maybe I'll just get a 55 gal barrel of CaOh :-) SMOKIIIIIIIIINNNNNNN :-) Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:26:56 -0500 From: Serian Subject: Spark Plug Wire Resistance >Does any one know what the resistance of a good wire should be, or what >resistance make a wire bad? The resistance of a typical spark plug wire is 5000 ohms per foot if it is a good one. This may very well vary by amnufacturer, however. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:38:59 -0500 From: Serian Subject: 360/390 ?? Anyone know what the *real* difference is between the 360 and 390 ? I looked up some stats on these two: 360 => bore=4.05, stroke=3.50 comp ratio=7.2:1 390 => bore=4.05, stroke=3.78 comp ratio=8.2:1 I did some algebraic figuring, and came up with the fact that if the exact same block is used, the difference in piston displacement (.28 inces per cylinder) equals exactly 30 cubic inches at a bore of 4.05 inches, and exactly enough to change the compression ratio from 7.2:1 to 8.2:1 if the total 'prior to being compressed volume' (i.e. the volume of piston displacement plus what is left after full compression) is the same for both. This seems to indicate that the only real difference between the 360 and the 390 is which crankshaft was used in that particular block. Is there any other significant differences that anyone knows of ? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:52:01 -0500 From: am14 Subject: F350 OK FOMOCO Gurus!!! HELP AN OLD MAN OUT HERE. I'm building an F350 4X4 and I need a title/truck. I cut a 3/4 ton '77 model 4X4 frame just behind the crossmember that holds the brace for the divorced transfer case. I also cut a lwb 2wd F350 frame right behind the rear cab mounts. I then mated the two frames together and now have a 4X4 frame that has 185" wb. I have the engine/trans/transfercase and both axles in it. I have a cab I can use, but I have no title. I need to purchase an old F350 with a good title and get a "rebuilt" title for my home project. I would prefer '77 thru '79. anyone knowing of one of these within border states of Alabama, please let me know. I don't care if it is running or has an engine/transmission or not. (in case you are wondering about the wheelbase - it is going to be my retirement motor home. I plan to tour these United States in that bugger.) Thanks in advance. E-mail: AM14 Azie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:24:22 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Roller chains? > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 15:08:00 -0800 > From: Adam Clever > Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket--tim > chain set, etc. from said oem and double-roller chains stretch the > same amount. from the chain-only standpoint, the only worthwhile > performance modification is a true-roller chain which will indeed > stretch less. Ok, I'm over 50 and decrepit(d) and a little foggy so what's the difference between a double roller chain and a "True" Roller chain? I assume a double roller chain has 3 side links, one pin per roller row and two rollers. How does that differ from 2 side links, one pin per row and one roller as to it's trueness? Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:34:19 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Header Wrap > Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:39:50 -0700 > From: Keith Srb > Subject: Header Wrap > Have any of you used Header Wrap? Which Brand? Was it worth it? Used it, still on but not too many miles on it yet, been sitting a lot so can't really comment on it's longevity but I can say it's quiet and the starter won't burn up and it's a pain to put on correctly and you better wear gloves so you don't razor your fingers on the retainers..................:-) I used ThermoTech I think it's called? Dang old age messes with the memory but I still don't drool when I eat dinner :-) Where's Murphy when you really need him?? - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:04:21 -0800 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: Fun Stuff > >> just to see what type of clearance i had and it was pretty scary! Do >> I need to use a electric fan ? Or is there a radiator that will work >> fine with a regular stock type fan assembly ?? > >The aluminum spacer can be replaced with shorter ones. The typically >have the same bolt patterns and many are interchangeable. I have not >found an electric fan I'd trust to cool a 460 yet. The shroud alone >is 19" and the largest electric fan I've found is 17". You can use >duals but then you have to fabricate a shroud and trust me, you don't >want to run a 460 without a shroud. I use a pair of electrics (a 12" and a 14" on a 26" wide rad) on my FE390 and I have no doubt that they would be *more* than adequate on most 460's. At idle (when You need it most) they move way more air than *any* stock setup I've seen. A pair of electrics with control thermostat is somewhat expensive at about $125, but they have a lot of advantages (quieter, less HP loss, compact, more effective at idle, doesn't wear out Your water pump) and they definately keep my FE plenty cool on nasty hot CA days. Don't underestimate electrics if they are set up properly! A picture of them can be found on the Fordtrucks pistorial webpage. Look for the whitish '71 flareside w/sidemount spare... Happy motoring, Steve When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. -- Hunter S. Thompson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:50:25 -0800 From: Gregg Park Subject: 77 351M Head Gasket Job Here=92s an update from my work last night, but first, some answers to = the questions I got; The truck burns hardly any oil at all. It always has seemed to run = rich though, but not oil rich. In the mornings, when I would let it warm up in the driveway, if the garage door was open it would set off the smoke alarm in the garage. So, maybe the heads are OK? I don=92t know about the mixture problem. The carb is about the 4 or 5 =93fully-tested=94 rebuilt that=92s been tried. =20 Dave- that was the accelerator pump, too, BTW that was stuck in the =91off=92 position. I knew that, I just seem to keep having the same = mental block on that part, and I end up having to call it the dash-pot. My errant youth coming back to haunt me in the form of early = Alzheimer=92s, I guess. =20 As far as the mileage on the motor, it=92s either got 85K, or been spun around, or been jacked back. I bought the truck in about =9291, and it had 73K. The guy was the second owner, and he bought it from his neighbor when it was 6 months old. The guy I bought it from owned another 2 vehicles and told me he pretty much used the truck only for pulling a trailer to the Colorado River, and the mileage was true. The miles were possibly not huge in number, but they were tough. There is evidence of overheating in plenty of places. I put in the current radiator (an oversized) soon after I bought the truck. The one I pulled was leaky, and there=92s a mark on the hood where it looks like the radiator spit a hole, and shot steam on the hood.. =20 The valve covers have mucho sludge under them, flaky sludge. I got the intake manifold off last night, and it looks very clean in there, but there was some cooked oil in the valley, Marko.- Not much, it almost looked like a couple of oil-soaked leaves. Everything seemed to come = off really easy, but of course I haven=92t gotten to the exhaust manifold = yet. That really looks scary=85=20 For books, I have the Clymers, the Chilton, and a book I think called =93How to rebuild your Ford V-8=94, which I bet most of you guys have = worn out by now. It=92s a great book, and it=92s where I saw the issue about timing chain weakness.=20 I also have a Ford SVO book, for when I want to fantasize.=20 So tonight- the heads (hopefully) will come off. Or at least I=92ll = try and peel a little more of the onion. I=92ve thought about trying to = just disconnect the head pipe, and leaving the manifolds on. Especially if the valves turn out OK, it would seem to be a bonus to not have to pull those scary rusted bolts off the exhaust manifold!=20 As always, thanks for the support.=20 Gregg =20 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:51:36 -0700 From: "Dave Resch" Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket >From: Adam Clever >Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket--tim > >otherwise, the seemingly reputable speed shop I recently >bought a chain set, etc. from said oem and double-roller >chains stretch the same amount. from the chain-only >standpoint, the only worthwhile performance modification >is a true-roller chain which will indeed stretch less. Yo Adam: I don't know what the difference is between a double-roller chain and a "true-roller" chain. As far as I know, it's either a roller chain (with a roller riding on a pivot pin between rigid side links, like a cycle drive chain) or a plate-type, so-called "silent" chain (with a group of plates interlocked at each end with a pivot pin). On the roller chain, the free spinning roller (riding on the pivot pin) is the load bearing contact point between the chain and the gear (or sprocket). On a plate-type chain, the plates themselves (the links between the pivot pins) form the contact point with the gear. The roller-type chain is more durable by virtue of it transferring the load from chain to gear directly through the larger diameter pivot pins, not through the links, which then leverage the force applied to the pins. The Cloyes double-roller chain I used has two rollers side by side on a single pivot pin w/ a link in between (three links altogether). The cam and crank gears both have two parallel sets of teeth to accommodate the middle link in the chain. By using two rollers and two teeth, the load on each roller and each gear tooth is half what it would be with a single roller chain (like a cycle drive chain). This design is one of the main contributors to chain longevity. The pivot pins that the rollers ride on are about 2-3 times the diameter of the pins in the silent chains I've seen. The links themselves are about three times the thickness of the plates used in the silent chains. Given the M-block engine's potential durability (200K miles easily), I believe it would be a wise investment ($50 or less, about twice the cost of a silent chain set) in long-term performance and reliability. BTW: Good point about the sets not including the valley pan/manifold gasket, but $50 seems pretty steep. (Ouch!) The last FelPro valley pan/manifold gasket I bought around here only cost me $24. That was at AutoZone, and I'll bet you can get them for even less from a catalog. Dave R. (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 09:54:00 -0800 From: Adam Clever Subject: Re: Roller chains? > sounds right (kidding) I assume a double roller chain has 3 side links, one pin per roller row and two rollers. How does that differ from 2 side links, one pin per row and one roller as to it's trueness?>> sounds right, how its 'true' and why it stretches less, I dunno. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:48:00 -0800 From: marko Subject: Re: 360/390 ?? >Anyone know what the *real* difference is between the 360 and 390 ? > >I looked up some stats on these two: >360 => bore=4.05, stroke=3.50 comp ratio=7.2:1 >390 => bore=4.05, stroke=3.78 comp ratio=8.2:1 > >I did some algebraic figuring, and came up with the fact that if the >exact same block is used, the difference in piston displacement (.28 >inces per cylinder) equals exactly 30 cubic inches at a bore of 4.05 >inches, and exactly enough to change the compression ratio from >7.2:1 to 8.2:1 if the total 'prior to being compressed volume' (i.e. >the volume of piston displacement plus what is left after full >compression) is the same for both. This seems to indicate that the >only real difference between the 360 and the 390 is which crankshaft >was used in that particular block. Is there any other significant differences >that anyone knows of ? > Yeah, the rods in the 360 are longer. The pistons look different, cause the 360 ones have full skirts and the 390 ones have slipper skirts. The cam is different. The heads may be different, depending on the year. And the biggest difference is the 390 has lots more power. marko in vancovuer marko ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:47:58 -0600 From: "JAMES MERLO" Subject: Re: "64 F350 I have the 6 lugs on my 62 f350 with 16 inch wheels - ---------- > From: am14 > To: Fordtrucks61-79 > Subject: "64 F350 > Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 8:31 AM > > Mark: The 6 Lug pattern was very scarcely used. You might be able to > locate some parts if you can find some salvage yard that has some old > railroad trucks that would run on the track or the highway. If I'm not > mistaken this is where most of the six lug patterns with 17" tires/rims > were used. I've only actually seen one other than railroad. > > Good luck. > > Azie > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 > | List removal information is on the web site. | > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:35:30 -0600 From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" Subject: Re: Synthetic Oils, PZL >Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 07:29:03 +0000 >From: "Gary, 78 BBB" >Subject: Synthetic Oils, PZL >I have to make an apology to my friends concerning my adamant stand >on the Penzoil thing :-( I based my statements on a FAQ I read that >included the PZL in the synthetic catagory but apparently, at best, >its a semi if even that. Gary, I guess I must of missed some posts or a digest because I don't remember any discussion about the Pennzoil synthetic. I'm just asking what you know because I did my first oil change with Pennzoil Performax this past weekend. The bottle says it is 100% synthetic. I bought it because it is $1/qt. cheaper at the local walmart than the Mobil 1. comments??????? later, Dale Carmine '79 F-150 351M York, Nebraska ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:17:02 -0800 From: Alan Mittelstaedt / Chad Dailey Subject: Project Truck, FTV2 #19 > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:31:18 -0600 > From: "Dennis K. Austin" > Subject: Re: Project Truck > ..snip.. > My neighbors came up with a home-made king pin press. At some time I > will diagram it and send it to Ken. Basically it is two pieces of steel > channel, a 1/2 inch thick plate, a rod as tuff as the king pins (we > used an old king pin), and two very large "all threads" with 1 inch > nuts. One steel channel needs a round hole cut through it large enough > only for the king pin to pass through but enough metal to fit the > I-Beam. Both channel pieces need holes (two each) for the "all thread." > > This was assembled with the channel that had the king pin hole on the > bottom of the I-Beam. The old king pin was held in place on top of the > king pin in the I-Beam. The 1/2 plate was put on top of this and the > final piece of channel was placed over that. All thread was fastened in > place and tightening took place from the top pressing downward. Any > light oil that will move through heavy grease is used too. We rotated > our efforts from one side of the contraption to the other. In about 10 > minutes with the use of a hand held propane torch we had the first one > out. The second took less time. > > I have cleaned up the twin I-Beams and painted them. Also, it is > recommended that you get some emory cloth and polish up the hole in the > I-Beams where your king pins go. Get all the rough spots out, use a rag > to remove the dust, and try test fitting your new king pins. If you can > drive them through with your fist then assembly will be real easy. You > don't want to over do it though. So, keep checking the fit. I didn't > need to wrap the emory cloth around anything. Just rolled it, inserted > it, stuck a finger in each end and ran it back and forth. Kinda like one > of those Mexican Finger traps. Dennis -- could you take a polaroid of this? I would be happy to scan it for the list if you would like to send it to me, or someone else? > And as said... a multi-year Chilton's Shop Manual is no use at all. I > need a '65 and a '74 book. Anybody got one? Try Irv Bishko at (he has lots of old stuff): Irv Bishko Auto Literature 14550 Watt Road Novelty, Ohio 44072 (440) 338-4811 or: Helm Publishing (might have the '74 stuff, but doubtful on the '65) 1-800-782-4356 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.helminc.com/ Good luck. Chad ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:56:30 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more The web site vote for the 1997+ list expired last week. The results: For new list: 73% Against: 21% Don't Care: 4% The 1997+ F150 & 1998+ F250/350 list should come alive this weekend. As a test it will use SmartList/Procmail instead of Majordomo for its list server software. If it works out okay all the lists will be moved over (in about a month). Majordomo takes up a lot of our time with administration. Subscribe instructions will be announced this weekend and a web site subscribe form will be place on the web pages. Finally got the Java server enabled for the web site. I'm in the process of getting the Java chat running now. Just in the nick of time for our 1st anniversary chat this Saturday. Announcement will be made when it's functional. I hate discussing what I'm about to discuss but.... We have about 10 static cling window stickers left. For those that don't know what these are, see them on the web site. Peggy is working on a T-shirt design but it won't go to press until the stickers are all gone (more stickers will be printed). Sale of these stickers help support our expenses. Its been a while since I've posted our expenses and I know that early on I promised to post these every now and then.... Our expenses are: $ 24.95/month - web server 1 (www.ford-trucks.com) + 1 time $30 charge $ 7.00/month - web server 2 (www.fordtrucks.com) + 1 time $30 charge (already bringing in 200+ extra visitors/day) $ 20.00/month - mailing lists (soon to be $25/month) $100.00 Internic fee for www.ford-trucks.com for 2 years $100.00 Internic fee for www.fordtrucks.com for 2 years $187.00 printer setup, stamps and envelopes for window stickers and mailing $ 20.00 registration fee for keyboard macro utility (this is a must for any mailing list administration) $ 50.00 banner ad script $139.00 scanner - prior to this purchase we used a scanner at Kinkos at it was costing us $18/hour. This scanner has been a must given the number of photos mailed to us. $ 70.00 business license (any day now). This is a must. We have grown beyond the "hobby" stage. $ 30.00/month second phone line - we now spend 1-4 hours daily administering the lists/web site and a second line is a must if we expect to have anyone get in touch with us. $ 21.00 every 6 months for the PO box. $ ??.?? numerous small misc expenses we incur As you can see our costs are significant. With our ads we're breaking even (barely). If you wish to support our efforts please purchase one of our stickers or the parts source guide (this is a great book); information is on the web site. We could really use support through the purchase of stickers/books as we just paid another $140 fee for another 6 months of web service - current paid up time is credited to the 6 months. Additionally, we plan to print out "Tried, True and Ford Blue - www.ford-trucks.com" cards to give out at the Pigeon Forge F100 Nationals - this is a minor expense but it does add to the bottom line. We no longer take donations unless you want to inflate the $3 sticker price and I'm not sure what our status would be with donations. Once again, I'd like to thank everyone who has helped with donations last year - your support has helped tremendously. We're in the process of making wholesale arrangements with a Ford trucks reproduction parts company. We hope to offer books, manuals, stickers, underhood tags, owner's manuals, guides and more at a discount in order to support the site. For the newer truck owners - we're working on other arrangements. As always, when our income goes up we try to increase our services for the members. I believe our track record shows sincerity in this respect. Speaking of which, in addition to the java chat and new list the free web space I announced earlier with be available to members for non-commercial Ford truck sites within 2 weeks. You'll get full password access so you can upload your pages without having to send them to me first. Announcement will be made when this is ready. Returning you to our regular program... please send any discussion concerning these items directly to: kpayne This announcement interrupts the list and talks enough about money without having a group discussion about it. However, if you feel you have something to say on these topics that's relevant to the group feel free to do so. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:43:40 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: Header Wrap i have not personnaly used anything, but a few of my freinds have used header wrap. i do not know which brand. it is expensive stuff, and you will probobly not see any increase in power, or mileage etc. one thing it does do that you will notice is reduce underhood temperatures alot. their trucks are much cooler under the hood. if you get air for the engine from underhood, like a round aircleaner on a carb, this should theoretically increase power, and mileage, but i doubt it will be noticable. my friends used it on "non-street" trucks, which run only for short time periods, and they noticed nothing except the lower underhood temps. sleddog - ---------- From: Keith Srb[SMTP:herbie Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 1998 9:39 AM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: Header Wrap HI all, Have any of you used Header Wrap? Which Brand? Was it worth it? Have any of you used Ceramic Coatings on your Headers? Which Brand? Was it worth it? What about the Jet Hot Coatings? Thanks! Later Keith Srb herbie http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie Mesa, AZ 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed. 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up. 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side. 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box. My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!" +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:07:37 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more - ---------- From: Ken Payne[SMTP:kpayne Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 1998 10:56 PM To: fordtrucks-small Subject: ADMIN: 1997+, java chat, expenses and more The web site vote for the 1997+ list expired last week. The results: For new list: 73% Against: 21% Don't Care: 4% what happened to the other 2% ????? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:09:17 -0600 From: "Don Wignall" Subject: 460 and C-6 in my "71 F-100 Hey Folks, Thanks to everyone who has provided me with the info I requested for this swap. As I read the replys I realized that I did not provide all the information that I should have. So, after you read this, if anyone wants to provide me anymore information, I'm interested in receiving and reading it. My 460 is out of a 72 Lincoln Town Car. I first saw the car in front of the local high school at the MADD display. I decided to go take a look under the bowed up hood and... yes siree, there was big blue . The car had been hit in the front but not too bad. I asked the wrecker company owner what he would take for the engine and transmission. I ended up buying the engine and trans for $200, still in the car. For $20 more he towed the car to my .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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