fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, April 13 1998 Volume 02 : Number 212



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

300 straight six ["Jamie Stone" ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: 5.8 FCW ["Bill Beyer" ]
Transmission [Neil and Robin von Koehe ]
Re: manual to auto conversion ["Sam Weatherby" ]
Re: 300 straight six [Ractrk002 ]
[none] [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: Transmission [Ractrk002 ]
Prison Bus to RV [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Spicer 24 Parts [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Re: Motorcraft 2150 carbs ["Dave Resch" ]
uniqueness of 77's [james oxley ]
9" traction loc rear end [jniolon uss.com]
RE: uniqueness of 77's [Randy Collins ]
Re: Spicer 24 Parts ["Bill Beyer" ]
Easy Question [wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
Re: 300 straight six [Tony Marino ]
RE: Easy Question [Sleddog ]
Re: Easy Question ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Easy Question ["Bill Beyer" ]
Short Trips [wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)]
Re: Short Trips ["Bill Beyer" ]
"79" four bolt steering box ["Smock, John Thomas"
Re: Easy Question [Mike Schwall ]
RE: Short Trips [Sleddog ]
Re: Short Trips ["Dr. FrankenFord" ]
Re: Short Trips ["Deacon" ]
Transmission [Neil and Robin von Koehe ]
Re: Rockwell [pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)]
RE: Supercab 1st year / 73 supercab onto 79 4x4 frame. [Marsha Herrmann
Recomend some reading [FoMoCoNUT2 ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 09:47:52 EDT
From: "Jamie Stone"
Subject: 300 straight six

Hello all! I've got a '70 F-100 with a 300 I6 and a 3-speed on the
colomn. The 300 has a blown head gasket, and a bad radiator. My original
intention was to drop a 460 in it, however finances have dictated
otherwise. Does anyone have any info on getting more HP out of
it?(intake/carb setup, exhaust, head work, etc..) I'd like to keep it
reliable, and street driveable. The 3-speed has a tendence to pop out of
first when I take my foot off the gas. Does this sound like a linkage
problem, or should I consider a rebuild? I'd like to change the final
drive gearing so I don't have to wind the engine out at 65. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx!

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 07:43:11 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

- ----------
> From: George Herpich
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 1998 3:19 PM
>
> My argument was that the engine heats up faster than the trans. I thought
you
> were trying to say the opposite. No matter where you are, assuming you
have a
> thermostat, the engine will warm up first.

Certainly the coolant in the block will heat up first and since that's
where the sending unit is that's what you're measuring. In a warm climate
the radiator probably does heat up first, however in a cold climate I don't
think that's necessarily the case. It takes quite a bit longer to heat up
the radiator when you're running -20 F air through it at 65 mph.

> If you consider the second law of thermal dynamics that small tube
running
> through a large amount of water won't act nearly as well at warming the
fluid
> as it will cooling it. I don't think the auto mfgs had preheating the
trans
> fluid in mind when they designed the in-radiator coolers.

I agree 100%.

> Most auxiliary cooler mfgs recommend running their coolers in series with
the
> stock unit because the stock one removes most of the heat before the
fluid hits
> the aux one. If you use only the aux you will need a bigger one.

Absolutely right!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 07:48:46 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 5.8 FCW

- ----------
> From: John Kosche
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: 5.8 FCW
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 1998 2:43 PM
>
>
> I need some info on EFI fuel systems. I am in the "why the F%&# did I
> start this" stage of a 351W into a 62 Falcon Club Wagon (Econoline).
The
> 351 was removed from an '89 pickup. I removed a pump and a filter from
the
> frame but it appears that another pump resides in the fuel tank..
> Assuming the pump located nearest the engine is the high pressure pump is
> the pump in the tank designed to feed the HP pump. Can I use an
> aftermarket electric pump in its place...
>

In the stock config the in tank fuel pump also has the sending unit for the
fuel gauge. Just something to keep in mind.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 08:01:00 -0700
From: Neil and Robin von Koehe
Subject: Transmission

I have a 1963 F250 with a 292 and a "Three-on-the-Tree" transmission.
The problem I am faced with is the the shifter housing has broken and I
need to convert to a floor shifter. What I need to know is whether my
transmission is a C-4 or a C-6 (or possibly something else). I am sure
it is the origianl transmission. I am not very educated in the area of
transmissions so I don't know where to look to tell what I have.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 08:00:30 -0700
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: manual to auto conversion

>No that's not quite true. Technically the trans is at operating temp when
>you start the vehicle unless you live in Fairbanks Alaska and it's -50 F.


Yep... And if you have a manual. You can't let the clutch out (in neutral
even), unless you do it slowly and keep the rpm's up...

>ATF stays viscous well below 0 F. Unless you've figured out some

Not really. By -5 it acts funny. -30 sucks. -40 The tranny won't shift up
quite as son as it should...
At least in our '78 Bronco that's what happend. But it was special. I think
it liked me more than it's other drivers. It even started at -47 after ski
practice one day. Without being plugged in.
I miss it.
-srw

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:10:59 EDT
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: 300 straight six

Offenhauser makes a manifold for those 240-300cid I-6 and Comp Cams makes a
few differnt cams that can add some power. Also a holly 390 cfm 4 barrel
would be good to top it off, you don't need a huge carb for that small of a
motor far to may people over carburate the motor and get poor performance.
For the heads I havent heard of any aftermarket but a macine shop could get
them to flow a little better, it may not be worth the time or money to do that
though.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:06:14 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: [none]

>"Robert Harris"

> would like to get something reasonable for the new engine
>going into this beast

What do you have in it? If it is a V8, it would probably work allright, if
rebuilt properly. Especially if it is an FE. A Y-block is just as good, but
parts are an issue when you are out RVing. My local NAPA has eveything a
person can expect for the FE to keep you on the road.
If you don't mind meticulous maintenence, a Navistar diesel is a wonderful
engine. The '93 up non-turbos are the best, they seem to have solved the
core-shift troubles that plagued earlier ones and don't have the problems
that have stranded a few Power-Stroke turbo owners. But maintenence is the
key issue. A diesel won't take short trip running or neglect, which makes it
a perfect candidate for an RV. The main advantage is fuel milage as you
probably know, and that this engine is made for this kind of use. I lean
toward the diesel if your heart is set on a modern engine swap, but I
reccomend studying up on what makes a diesel happy and be sure that it
meshes with what makes you happy before you make the switch.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:13:54 EDT
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: Transmission

It's not aeither In fact I don't belive they made C-4s or C-6s then, look on
the tag on your door jam it ought to tell you what tranny u have, I know hurt
makes floor shifter for most of those 3 on the trees though

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:11:33 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Prison Bus to RV

>"Robert Harris"

> would like to get something reasonable for the new engine
>going into this beast

What do you have in it? If it is a V8, it would probably work allright, if
rebuilt properly. Especially if it is an FE. A Y-block is just as good, but
parts are an issue when you are out RVing. My local NAPA has eveything a
person can expect for the FE to keep you on the road.
If you don't mind meticulous maintenence, a Navistar diesel is a wonderful
engine. The '93 up non-turbos are the best, they seem to have solved the
core-shift troubles that plagued earlier ones and don't have the problems
that have stranded a few Power-Stroke turbo owners. But maintenence is the
key issue. A diesel won't take short trip running or neglect, which makes it
a perfect candidate for an RV. The main advantage is fuel milage as you
probably know, and that this engine is made for this kind of use. I lean
toward the diesel if your heart is set on a modern engine swap, but I
reccomend studying up on what makes a diesel happy and be sure that it
meshes with what makes you happy before you make the switch.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:12:01 -0500
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Spicer 24 Parts

Does anyone know where to find rebuild parts for the Dana-Spicer 24 transfer
case? In the near future I intend to pull mine down and put new bearings and
seals in it. Has anyone been into one? Any advice?


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:44:59 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Motorcraft 2150 carbs

Parts of this message were originally posted on 04/06/98. Non-digest
subscribers may have seen this before, but it got lost in one of the lost
digests (202, 203, or 204). Since then, I have made a few other
discoveries about the Mustang carb I bought to try out on my 351M.

>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>Subject: Re: 2150
>
>The carb on my '79 351M is D50E BA.
>
>I believe that the tag number
>indicates it's a 1975 model carb????

Yo Dale:

According to my sources, that carb came from a '75 Torino. (Could've even
been on a 351M, since that's the year they were first made and installed in
Torinos, too).

>On my last trip to the boneyard I found a '79 351M with the
>original carb and emissions decals intact. I plan to go
>back and get that carb, I've never felt that mine performs
>very good. I suppose because it's calibrated for a 302?
>I didn't write down the jet sizes when I had it apart and I just
>sold my spec book.:-(

Could be the calibration. Take a look at the left side of the main body
casting (right behind the acc pump rod) and see what the venturi size is.
Enquiring minds wanna know :-). As long as you can suck enough air,
bumping up the jets a notch or two could help performance w/ a richer
mixture, though it might not be as good for emissions.

As for that carb in the boneyard, see what the guy wants for it. I can get
a duplicate of my carb (E0TE-BSA) from a 1980 351M in the boneyard here for
pretty cheap, and it ought to be pretty similar to what your truck should
have. Wouldn't help w/ the emissions decal, though.

>>Are the metering rods included in the rebuild kit?
>
>Not in the one that I bought, it didn't have much but gaskets,
>clips, and the accelerator pump diaphragm. Long term I
>plan to dump the 2150 as soon as I can afford a manifold/carb.

Long term, me too! But right now, I'm looking for relatively cheap 2V
performance improvements. BTW, the Edelbrock #3771 EGR manifold comes w/
an EGR spacer/adapter for the Motorcraft 2150 2V carb. That way, you can
get the manifold first, and get into that upgrade one step (fewer $) at a
time.

Well, I got a chance to tear into that carb even more last weekend. Turns
out, there were about a dozen odds & ends parts left over from the rebuild
kit last time I rebuilt my truck carb and several of them are for this
metering rod type carb. The rebuild kit had two different gaskets for
where the booster venturi assembly goes in the main carb body. There was
even a spring for the metering rod actuator (the rod that goes down to the
cam on the throttle shaft) that I never could figure out what it was for
when I rebuilt my truck carb that has no metering rods.

>>And New stuff.

Started soaking the parts in Chem Dip this weekend. Pretty strong (toxic
yet alluring) smell, that stuff, but it sure does clean those carb parts!
Forget that CK stuff, "real" men wear Chem Dip!

More research last week. Turns out that the power valve and acc pump
diaphragm for the Mustang carb (E2ZE-BAA) are the same parts as my truck
carb uses. That really opens up the options for rebuilding this thing.
Now I know I can get the $20 rebuild kit for my truck carb and forget the
$50 kit for this Mustang carb. The main body gasket looks a little
different, mostly for the HIC passage through the right rear corner and a
little more gasket covering the top of the float bowl below the EVAP vent
tube. I figure I'll just block off the HIC passage for now and add a
little extra gasket material over the float bowl, if necessary to reduce
the sloshing out to the EVAP.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 14:06:25 -0700
From: james oxley
Subject: uniqueness of 77's

Howdy

A fellow list member from the Bigbronco list is trying to convince his
brother to get a Ford truck instead of a Heep. He posted a question as to
wether the 77's (4wd's) have any unique features that 73-76 didn't. Also,
how common were 460's in 77, F-250's 4 X 4's. Please Cc: back to person I
Cc:'d in this message, as he is not on the list.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 15:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: jniolon uss.com
Subject: 9" traction loc rear end

Well, I'm looking again.........

need a ford 9" third member...

equal loc or limited slip - 28 spline

3.25 or 3.50 gears (or close)

reasonable priced

come on guys...it's out there somewhere
help me out

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 14:08:29 -0700
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: uniqueness of 77's

OX Wrote:
A fellow list member from the Bigbronco list is trying to convince his
brother to get a Ford truck instead of a Heep. He posted a question as to
wether the 77's (4wd's) have any unique features that 73-76 didn't. Also,
how common were 460's in 77, F-250's 4 X 4's. Please Cc: back to person I

I replied:
Ford had two F250 4WD's for the model year 1977. The latter is referred to
as a 1977 1/2. There was lots of changes on the 1977 1/2 model year. The
truck was lowered 2 inches, new frame, the sought after steering gear, open
type front differential knuckles and a married transfer case were some of
the memorable changes. I think that 1977 1/2 was the first year the
tilt-column was available. The use of the married transfer case made two
gas tanks an option for the first time on F250 4WD's.

Although some will argue that the 460 was never offered in the 1977 to 1979
style F250 4WD I know it was. But you probably will never see one. I
heard years ago that they made a few of them and I have personally seen
one. However there are lots of 460 conversions out there.

Hope that helps.

Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET
Short Block Completed...Heads Sitting on the work bench!


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 13:44:31 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Spicer 24 Parts

I've had several people tell me good things about 4X Heaven. They're
located out of NY state. Ph# (800) 800-1679 Orders. Tech# (518) 725-1334.

- ----------
> From: WILLIAM L BALLINGER
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Spicer 24 Parts
> Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 8:12 AM
>
> Does anyone know where to find rebuild parts for the Dana-Spicer 24
transfer
> case? In the near future I intend to pull mine down and put new bearings
and
> seals in it. Has anyone been into one? Any advice?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:01:05 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Easy Question

I'm exposing my ignorance here: What does the term "RTV" stand for; not =
all
of those similar compounds are so labeled.

Rob
'71 F100, 360 4Spd
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6=20

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 17:07:04 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: 300 straight six

Hi All!

I have that particular setup that you're talking about just without the
cam.

I put the offy 4bbl manifold on it, and to get past local E-check laws,
I also put on dual exhaust manifolds off of an '88. (when you put on
offy intake, old exhaust manifold can't be used) Fit great! Now for
carb. BIG PROBLEMS. I have a holley 390cfm that I ran for 1 week and
took my truck to go get it tuned. He said it wouldn't work very well,
and there was no way to pass E-check with it on there. Quoted me $250
bucks to tune it. I went out and bought a Carter 600cfm Chebby
chokeless model and it fit WONDERFULLY! Much nicer geometry on
throttle, choke, pcv, and brake booster lines. Truck runs 10 times
better than it it did with the holley without even turning a screw.
They holly that was used 1 week is now for sale for $175. Any offers?

Power wise, I would chance to say this thing has as much low end as the
stock 390 my buddy had, and the gas milage is phenominal. I'd put
pulling power against any (not blown or ridiculous!) small block ford.

All-in-all really cheap, but it still dosn't rev (4,500 max) or sound
like a V-8. I'll stick with my 6.

Tony Marino
tony pscico.com
www.pscico.com/~tony

Ractrk002 wrote:
>
> Offenhauser makes a manifold for those 240-300cid I-6 and Comp Cams makes a
> few differnt cams that can add some power. Also a holly 390 cfm 4 barrel
> would be good to top it off, you don't need a huge carb for that small of a
> motor far to may people over carburate the motor and get poor performance.
> For the heads I havent heard of any aftermarket but a macine shop could get
> them to flow a little better, it may not be worth the time or money to do that
> though.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 17:34:26 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Easy Question

room temperature vulcanizing i think.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Rob Patelke[SMTP:wayside cyberhighway.net]
Sent: Monday, April 13, 1998 4:01 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Easy Question

I'm exposing my ignorance here: What does the term "RTV" stand for; not all
of those similar compounds are so labeled.

Rob
'71 F100, 360 4Spd
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 14:36:00 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Easy Question

OK...ready? RTV = R (oom) T (emperature) V (ulcanized). Do I win the prize?

FTC: I STILL don't believe that 79 F250 4X4s came with 460s!
- ----------
> From: Rob Patelke
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Easy Question
> Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 1:01 PM
>
> I'm exposing my ignorance here: What does the term "RTV" stand for; not
all
> of those similar compounds are so labeled.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 15:08:06 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Easy Question

OK...ready? RTV = R (oom) T (emperature) V (ulcanized). Do I win the prize?

FTC: I STILL don't believe that 79 F250 4X4s came with 460s!


- ----------
> From: Rob Patelke
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Easy Question
> Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 1:01 PM
>
> I'm exposing my ignorance here: What does the term "RTV" stand for; not
all
> of those similar compounds are so labeled.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:06:09 GMT
From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
Subject: Short Trips

Hi group,
Most of my driving is very low mileage; the two miles to work is not =
enough
to warm up the engines in any of my vehicles.=20
I've always heard that this is not good for engines, and I'd like to hear
suggestions for preserving my engines as long as possible under those
circumstances.
TIA

Rob
'71 F100, 360 4Spd
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6=20

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 16:15:16 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Short Trips

You're right it's not good for the engine. It tends to increase the chance
of "sludge" build up in the lubrication system as well as carbon build up
in the combustion chambers. The best way to combat both of these is to take
the vehicle out on the freeway every couple of weeks to get it up to
operating temperature and drive it that way for 20-30 miles. You also
should change the oil more frequently, instead of every 3000 miles try
every 3-4 months instead.

Another alternative is to change to a full synthetic or synthetic blend
oil. I understand they are less prone to sludge. I don't know if I would go
so far as to use any sort of fuel treatment. I'm kind of skeptical about
them. I think the occasional good run up and down the freeway will keep the
combustion chambers clean.

- ----------
> From: Rob Patelke
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Short Trips
> Date: Monday, April 13, 1998 1:06 PM
>
> Hi group,
> Most of my driving is very low mileage; the two miles to work is not
enough
> to warm up the engines in any of my vehicles.
> I've always heard that this is not good for engines, and I'd like to hear
> suggestions for preserving my engines as long as possible under those
> circumstances.
> TIA
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:15:30 -0500
From: "Smock, John Thomas"
Subject: "79" four bolt steering box

I bought a 1979 F-250 4WD a year or so ago, I am now starting to
rebuild it. When I aquired this truck the steering box was in a box.
I am interested in knowing how reliable these boxes are. After
pricing a rebuild kit I see parts manufactures think they are at
least worth their weight in gold. How reliable would a junk yard
version of this box be. I am shying away from rebuilding the one
that I have since I really don't know if all the parts are in the
box. Any words of wisdom out there?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:42:50 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Easy Question

At 08:01 PM 4/13/98 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm exposing my ignorance here: What does the term "RTV" stand for; not all
>of those similar compounds are so labeled.

I always thought it meant Room Temperature Vulcanizing, or something similar.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:27:43 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Short Trips

change oil & filter religously (perhaps every 1,500 miles), drive longer
trips with it when possible, allow warmup time in winter (remote starter?),
a preluber perhaps or oil reservoir can to give oil before startup to
bearings, just off the to of my head. oh, and never run the piss out of
it without being up to temperature.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Rob Patelke[SMTP:wayside cyberhighway.net]
Sent: Monday, April 13, 1998 4:06 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Short Trips

Hi group,
Most of my driving is very low mileage; the two miles to work is not enough
to warm up the engines in any of my vehicles.
I've always heard that this is not good for engines, and I'd like to hear
suggestions for preserving my engines as long as possible under those
circumstances.
TIA

Rob
'71 F100, 360 4Spd
'78 F250, 4X4 400 C6






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:05:33 -0700
From: "Dr. FrankenFord"
Subject: Re: Short Trips

Rob wrote:
>Most of my driving is very low mileage; the two miles to work is not enough
>to warm up the engines in any of my vehicles.
>I've always heard that this is not good for engines, and I'd like to hear
>suggestions for preserving my engines as long as possible under those
>circumstances.
>TIA

A 2 mile commute to work? I'd buy a bicycle... (-:


Steve

Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:20:56 -0700
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Short Trips

From: Dr. FrankenFord
> A 2 mile commute to work? I'd buy a bicycle... (-:

From a guy that drives 60 miles for a part, 200 miles for a date, 2
miles must sound like a driveway! :) Not all of us like that Unibomber
lifestyle, Bro. :]


Deacon
deconblu gte.net
=============================================
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.
=============================================
Deacon 's
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 19:54:02 -0700
From: Neil and Robin von Koehe
Subject: Transmission

Okay, I looked on the tag on my door and under Transmission there is an
"A", which tells me absolutely nothing. I have a Chilton Manual which
doesn't tell me anything either. So, what transmission do I have? I am
desperate as I am supposed to go on a trip this weekend and need to get
a shift kit put in before then. Thanks for any help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 00:13:18 -0400
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Re: Rockwell

Robert. My newly acquired F500 has a Rockwell differential and 20 inch
rims. The truck is rated at 15,000 GVW and the ratio is 6:20. You can see
it at my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut.

BTW I changed the oil in the transmission and rear end before I drove it
the other day. Took over two and a half gallons to fill them both up! I
bought the gear oil in a five gallon pail from an agricultural supply
house. Came out cheeper that way.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 (I made it go, now to stop)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wife's car)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:44:37 -0500
From: Marsha Herrmann
Subject: RE: Supercab 1st year / 73 supercab onto 79 4x4 frame.

RE: On 4/12/98 Kurt Albershardt wrote:

"It would be really cool to drop a 73' F-250 Supercab body onto a
79' 4x4 frame in order to keep the grille he likes".



WOW! This sounds like too much work for me! The 73'-75' & 76'-77' Grilles
are direct bolt-on's to a 78'-79' truck. Only the styles changed.

In the late 70's body shops found themselves installing 78'-79' grilles
onto 73'-77' trucks at the owners request when repairing them after a
front-end crash. Many people liked the new modern look at that time!

To do this you'll need to buy the Grille Shell (D6TZ-8200A), both the left
and right 73-75' Grille Inserts (D3TZ-8150A & D3TZ-8151A), a couple of
round headlight assemblies from your salvage yard or Autokrafters (these
are already obsolete from Ford) and a couple of headlights. All in all,
aprx $475 in parts!
AND, please buy the parts from FORD!! (Or Autokrafters, who buy them from
Ford also and many times will sell them to you for less than you can get
them from the Ford dealer.).... (Your welcome Ron!). Anyway, always buy
the original Ford part, not only are they better quality and look better,
but we want Ford to keep these old truck parts around as long as we can!

Back to the Supercab, Ford only shows the F-350 available in this design
for 1973, but they do not list any sales figures. In 1974 they were
available in the 100-250-350 models.

Good Luck with the project!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 01:22:57 EDT
From: FoMoCoNUT2
Subject: Recomend some reading

Hey Gang,
I am going to have some severe down time after this Friday. I'm the first....


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