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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 03:50:35 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #21
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, January 14 1998 Volume 02 : Number 021



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Dana update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Project Truck ["Hogan, Tom" ]
RE:Hesitstion [al.giordano AMETEK.COM]
Hesitation [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Easy Off ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Easy Off [John MacNamara ]
RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #20 [Jim Pointer ]
Re: Fun Stuff !! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
'77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket [John Strauss ]
RE: Easy Off ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Easy Off ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket ["Dave Resch"]
Re: hesitation [Tyler Wilkins ]
Aux Fuel Tank [Marv Miller ]
Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket--tim [Adam Clever
Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: Easy Off !! [A64F100 ]
Re: Dana update [JRFiero ]
Re: hesitation [Ken Payne ]
Re: hesitation [ECampb5214 ]
Re: ADMIN, list subscriptions?+++ [danadeb pacbell.net]
78/79 Crew Cab Frame?? [FORDTRKNUT ]
gutter rust ["Deacon" ]
Re: gutter rust [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: hesitation [Jesus Cardoso ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:08:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Dana update

> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:46:03 -0700
> From: Mark Shankel
> Subject: Re: Dana update

> > I have used diesel to remove grease etc. seems to work well enough
> > and it's cheap I don't know if it is a good idea for flammability
> > reasons but I think it is less flammable then paint thinner. If

Diesel will cause fumes which lay on the ground because they are
heavier than air and they will definitely cause an explosion so be
carefull.

Easy Off oven cleaner (someone just reminded me) or the "Gunk" type
cleaners are the safest but gasoline or fuel oil will work if you're
carefull and have ventilation etc.. I have a furnace open to the
room air so I don't use that stuff in the winter. I have to turn it
off when I shoot paint and wait for the air to clear before turning
it back on.

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:13:18 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket

After I had my 78 cougar with 302, I bought a 78 cougar with a 351 M. This
one cost me $350. The body was perfect, the a/c worked, the seats were
plush, the glass was tinted, the transmission needed replacing and as I
found out later the headgasket was leaking. The car would boil constantly.

So, I replaced the headgaskets. This was an absolute joke to do, even with
the air conditioner. Check your heads for visible cracks/warpage when you
have them off, but if it's anything like my truck was it's just gaskets. I
got it done in an afternoon.

If you've run it overheated for any length of time you'll have some cooked
oil (carbon) in the valley pan. Take it out with a shop vac.

Thing worked great after that. Don't despair, the only reason you'll need
new heads is if they're cracked or severely worn out. Was your truck
burning really blue before? 150" of compression isn't bad, and the
leak-down test was fine on all cyls except the ones where you think the
gasket is gone, so you probably have perfectly fine heads.

BTW you can probably buy an engine set for the price of the separate gaskets
(head, intake, exhaust, distributor ring, thermostat? So just buy the set
(shud be about 40-50 bucks if that, don't get shafted into paying any more)
rather than buying gaskets individually. If this is the first time you've
done this job (maybe not, since you sound kinda knowledgeable) then use a
manual so you get the tightening order right. Loosen in the reverse order
of tightening by the way, but loosen in order too, and stepwise, not all at
once.

good luck.


marko in vancouver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:28:41 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket

Just a couple of thoughts....I wouldn't put "redone" heads on a motor with
very many miles on it. Your buddy is right it will create too much stress
on the rings. Unless, of course you're fond of oil geysers out the dipstick
tube. Take it from someone who's been there :( I've always had good luck
with Cloyes timing sets but really any quality set should outlast the motor
at this point.
- ----------
> From: Gregg Park
>
> Anyway, tips on what I can expect, look for, watch out for, etc. in the
> tear-down and gasket replacement will be much appreciated. I donít 100%
> intend to put redone heads in. Iím kind of disgusted with California
> smog laws, to tell you the truth. If this was a í73 or earlier, I would
> feel differently. Iíd be looking for a 460 and go from the block up. I
> guess if the heads are real bad I wonít have a choice. Rebuilt ones are
> $125 each out here, and Iím on the fence. My buddy thinks new heads
> would just put more hurt on the bottom end anyway, and the motor is not
> worth it. I am toying with the idea of doing the timing chain and
> gears, since the ford rebuild book says they are such a weak link. I
> need low end, cause this baby is to tow my bass boat on the weekends, so
> thanks for steering me away from the Cleveland heads. Any tips on the
> timing chain selection/positioning if I have options would be great too.
> Thanks to you guys. This list is super. I donít feel so alone in my
> fight against the ravages of time!
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:37:02 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: Project Truck

Dennis,
Good luck on your project. Couple of things:
1. Have you changed the bushings at the pivot points in the I beams?
While you're in the truck that far you may as well go for it. You may
also want to look at the rubber bushings on the radius arms.
2. Great idea on the king pin press. Send the drawing in. I'd love to
see it.
3. For shop manuals check with Helm Publshing. 1-800-782-4356 or at
www.helminc.com. They produce the Ford factory service manuals. Year
specific and worth every penny.

- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:31:18 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Project Truck


Everything is here now. The front end is disassembled and ready to be
reassembled.

My neighbors came up with a home-made king pin press. At some time I
will diagram it and send it to Ken. Basically it is two pieces of steel
channel, a 1/2 inch thick plate, a rod as tuff as the king pins (we
used an old king pin), and two very large "all threads" with 1 inch
nuts. One steel channel needs a round hole cut through it large enough
only for the king pin to pass through but enough metal to fit the
I-Beam. Both channel pieces need holes (two each) for the "all thread."



And as said... a multi-year Chilton's Shop Manual is no use at all. I
need a '65 and a '74 book. Anybody got one?

Now... got to go see Chester about a 302 Tunnel Port...hhmm!




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:39:09 -0500
From: al.giordano AMETEK.COM
Subject: RE:Hesitstion

The factory says 5000 ohms per inch for wires, also check the ing=2E=
=20
module, mine started breaking down between 2-3k rpm=2E
=20
=20
Al=20
77 F250 4x4=20

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:52:41 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Hesitation

Jesus: My bet is either of two things. (1) accelerator pump (2)
Sticking Vacuum advance.

>>y truck has been doing this hesitation/pulling action lately, but
it does not die. If I let go of the gas and give it some time it will
eventually recover. It does not hesitate all the time!

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:55:20 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: Easy Off

Anyone ever try paint stripper? My dad once rebuild an old Ford tractor
with a flathead 4 cylinder and the only thing we had around at the time
was some sprayon paint remover. As I remember it was pretty nasty
stuff. Burns the skin if you get it on you, but that block was really
clean after and also ready for a new coat of paint!!!

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)



- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 01:10:56 -0500
From: Serian
Subject: Easy Off !!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net wrote:
>A list member once suggested Easy Off oven cleaner. I tried it and it
worked
>great. Takes paint and all off.

No doubt about this one ... that stuff is sodium hydroxide in a
soap-like
base...
the same active ingredient that is used to clean out stopped-up drains
and
hot-tank
engine blocks.
Dont get it on aluminum parts, though, or it will corrode and eventually
dissolve
them, and release a little hydrogen in the process ...

== B. Edwards Manahan

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:15:39 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Easy Off

Hogan, Tom wrote:

> Anyone ever try paint stripper? My dad once rebuild an old Ford tractor
> with a flathead 4 cylinder and the only thing we had around at the time
> was some sprayon paint remover. As I remember it was pretty nasty
> stuff. Burns the skin if you get it on you, but that block was really
> clean after and also ready for a new coat of paint!!!

Tom: I bought a gallon of paint stripper from POR (Paint Over Rust) and
used it to strip the engine compartment on my 67 mustang. Worked great,
it's like the old stuff that stings the skin and it bubbled the paint in
less than 15 seconds. The paint once bubbled would wipe right off. I
accidentally dropped some on the fender and ruined the clear coat that was
on there. It's a ten year old paint job so didn't bum me out to much.

For anybody who needs good stripper, I can highly reccomend it.

Thanks
John



>
>
> Tom H
> San Francisco, California
> 76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
> 96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 01:10:56 -0500
> From: Serian
> Subject: Easy Off !!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net wrote:
> >A list member once suggested Easy Off oven cleaner. I tried it and it
> worked
> >great. Takes paint and all off.
>
> No doubt about this one ... that stuff is sodium hydroxide in a
> soap-like
> base...
> the same active ingredient that is used to clean out stopped-up drains
> and
> hot-tank
> engine blocks.
> Dont get it on aluminum parts, though, or it will corrode and eventually
> dissolve
> them, and release a little hydrogen in the process ...
>
> == B. Edwards Manahan
>
> ------------------------------
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:16:35 -0600
From: Jim Pointer
Subject: RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #20

> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:16:15 +0000
> From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
> Subject: Re: Wiper motor
>
> > From: Jim Pointer
> > Subject: Wiper motor
> > Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:00:44 -0600
> > Reply-to: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
>
> > What I'm looking for is my windshield wiper motor. That is to
> > say, I'm having a hard time figuring out where it's hidden on my 66
> > F100. The Chilton manual, which tries to cover 21 years worth of
>
> They're usually mounted under the cowl in front of the windshield but
> access to them may be from under the hood, the dash or the cowl if
> it's removable like on the 75 vans. Is it electric or vacuum?
> Doesn't matter, just curious?

It's electric. It looks like some part of the linkage may be accessible
from a hole through the cowl that's covered with a plug, but according
to a guy
on the list who just replaced his, the motor's under the dash.

> Look under the hood first for a motor looking doflingy near the
> master cylinder area. See how it's attached and go from there. :-)
> If you don't see anything there look inside the cowl throught the
> louvres with a flash light for some clues. As already mentioned it
> may be under the dash as well.
>
> I bet that's what the Haynes said right?

Actually Chilton ;-), but it says it's on the "left side of the
windshield header," whatever
that means.

> Where's Murphy when
> you really need him??

Waiting for me to spend 600 bucks to get my truck ready for winter, then
euthanizing
my wiper motor.

Jim Pointer
jimp geoaccess.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:02:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Fun Stuff !!

> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:50:34 -0500
> From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
> Subject: Fun Stuff !!

> I am in need of assistance with a radiator. I've found that the one
> that was in it is bad, plus its pretty small. What radiator should I
> look for ? even the one that was in it looks to be very tight with

Measure the frame inside dimensions the radiator fits into and let us
know. There are several versions that I know work with the 460.

> just to see what type of clearance i had and it was pretty scary! Do
> I need to use a electric fan ? Or is there a radiator that will work
> fine with a regular stock type fan assembly ??

The aluminum spacer can be replaced with shorter ones. The typically
have the same bolt patterns and many are interchangeable. I have not
found an electric fan I'd trust to cool a 460 yet. The shroud alone
is 19" and the largest electric fan I've found is 17". You can use
duals but then you have to fabricate a shroud and trust me, you don't
want to run a 460 without a shroud.

> Also I seem to be having trouble finding headers to fit, does
> anyone

Try some engine huggers in standard F series configuration. If that
doesn't seem right try the bronco version as it's slightly different
in fit. There are also shorty headers which are reputed to have
better properties than stock manifolds which may be easier to fit an
exhaust to.


Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:40:06 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket

Just watch out for getting the head gaskets on backwards! The last M-motor
I worked on was way back in high school. It was a '77 Cougar that a guy
brought into our Auto Mechanics shop because he had had it a local shop and
they put head gaskets on it. Now it could go from cold to boiling hot in
less than 10 minutes at idle. My instructor said, "I bet you'll find they
put the head gaskets on backwards." and he was right. I don't think they
are marked, either, but there is a big water passage hole that must go to
the rear of the engine. This has been more than 15 years ago so my memory
is somewhat fuzzy but I just wanted to offer something. Good luck.

If it's torque you want and your heads are shot, I'd find a nice junkyard
460 for around $500 and drop it in. You shouldn't have any trouble getting
lots of advice from plenty who have done it on the list.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:12:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Easy Off

> From: "Hogan, Tom"
> Subject: RE: Easy Off
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:55:20 -0800

> Anyone ever try paint stripper? My dad once rebuild an old Ford
> tractor with a flathead 4 cylinder and the only thing we had around
> at the time was some sprayon paint remover. As I remember it was
> pretty nasty stuff. Burns the skin if you get it on you, but that
> block was really clean after and also ready for a new coat of
> paint!!!

Yup, used some army surplus at school when I was a kid to strip and
old laminated canoe of about 1/2 of paint. Stuff really burns your
skin :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:15:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Easy Off

> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:15:39 -0800
> From: John MacNamara
> Subject: Re: Easy Off

> would wipe right off. I accidentally dropped some on the fender and
> ruined the clear coat that was on there. It's a ten year old paint
> job so didn't bum me out to much.
>
> For anybody who needs good stripper, I can highly reccomend it.

Now all we need is some under coating and grease and rust stripper
that works like that and I can get rid of my blaster :-)

Where's Murphy when
you really need him??

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:22:10 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket

>From: Gregg Park
>Subject: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket
>
>One interesting thing to note is that during the timing
>check, I realized the fuel dash pot lever was not moving
>
Yo Gregg:

Are you referring to the accelerator pump lever on the left front of the
carb? The dashpot is a little canister device mounted on the left side of
the carb, right in front of the throttle lever. It should have a plunger
that sticks out and touches the throttle lever when the throttle is closed.
I don't think there's any lever on the dashpot, unless it's a "California"
thing.

>My buddy thinks new heads would just put more hurt on
>the bottom end anyway, and the motor is not worth it. I am
>toying with the idea of doing the timing chain and gears,
>since the ford rebuild book says they are such a weak link.
> I need low end, cause this baby is to tow my bass boat on
>the weekends, so thanks for steering me away from the
>Cleveland heads. Any tips on the timing chain selection/
>positioning if I have options would be great too.
>
Are you still thinking that this is a low mileage engine? If so, new heads
shouldn't hurt the bottom end.

If you want to keep this engine a while and give it a little more poop, I
would definitely recommend a double-roller chain set w/ steel gears. Make
sure it's got adjustable gears (multiple keyways), too. Any timing set
that fits a 351C will fit an M-block.

The factory stock timing set in this engine retards the cam 2-4 degrees.
Advancing the cam 2-4 degrees will not adversely affect your tailpipe
emissions (although it may be technically emissions illegal), as long as
the rest of the engine (especially the carb and ignition timing) is tuned
correctly. If you advance the cam, don't forget to advance the ignition
timing, too. (Plus 2 degrees on the cam means you need to add 2 degrees
advance to the base timing on the distributor.)

When I replaced the timing set in my 1980 351M and advanced the cam 2
degrees, I experienced a noticeable improvement in low end power and
acceleration. I highly recommend this upgrade.

BTW: which rebuild book are you using as a guide?

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 17:03:28 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: hesitation

it is getting enough gas from the fuel pump, the carb has been
> cleaned, and there no visible damage to any of the engine components. To
> put it simply, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE HECK IS CAUSING THE HESITATION!
>
> I have a theory that the one of the plug wires might be bad, even
> thought they are new NAPA wire. Does any one know what the resistance of
> a good wire should be, or what resistance make a wire bad?
>
> Any assitance would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

No mention of fuel filter, did you check that? unless thats before the
pump on your truck.

Tyler Wilkins

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:58:12 -0800
From: Marv Miller
Subject: Aux Fuel Tank

danadeb pacbell.net (Dana) wrote:

>Marv had a stock aux tank that he was going to give me. I was going to >mount it on the pass side but I really don't have time.
Dana, does this mean you're not comin' to get the tank?

>So if he still has it maybe he would give it to you.
Sure. Anybody's welcome. It's here for the taking. Reseda.

>E-Mail him directly. I haven't seen him on the list lately. ( Marv >Miller ) Let him know that I told you about it.
I'm here daily. Just haven't had anything to say to the whole
group. I do, however, communicate with members of the group with
E-mail directly if the subject isn't of general interest. I'm not
lost.
(Come to think of it, maybe I AM!) ;-)

-Marv-
- ---
For when the One Great Scorer comes to mark against your name,
He writes - not that you won or lost - but how you played the game.
Grantland Rice
Alumnus Football - 1941

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 15:08:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket--tim


would definitely recommend a double-roller chain set w/ steel gears.>>

if the main benefit is the ability to change cam timing, that is not
available in any oem 'plate' link chain, great.

otherwise, the seemingly reputable speed shop I recently bought a chain set,
etc. from said oem and double-roller chains stretch the same amount. from
the chain-only standpoint, the only worthwhile performance modification is a
true-roller chain which will indeed stretch less.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:38:33 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: '77 F150-351 Overtemp/Headgsket

> BTW you can probably buy an engine set for the price of the separate gaskets
> (head, intake, exhaust, distributor ring, thermostat? So just buy the set
> (shud be about 40-50 bucks if that, don't get shafted into paying any more)
> rather than buying gaskets individually.

Watch out with this idea for the 351M, most gasket kits do not include
the mainfold gasket (mine didn't and I didn't realize it right away) for
the 351M because it is the valleypan\manifold gasket type. I paid $48
for the kit then had to also pay another $50 for that gasket!

Tyler Wilkins
'79 F-250, '74 F-100, '79 F-100 351M, '94 Explorer, Soon '74 Bronco 302

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:02:49 EST
From: A64F100
Subject: Re: Easy Off !!

I love Easy off for really gunky jobs. When I got my engine it was all greasy
and dirty, I just sprayed a couple cans of easy off on it and it washed right
off. Left the block just right for painting.

Later,

Scott Loechel

*keep it Ford blue*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:42:19 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re: Dana update

In a message dated 98-01-13 11:48:20 EST, you write:


alluminum.
>>
Fair warning. My Ducati side cases will never be the same. Haven't touched
the stuff since.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:16:02 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: hesitation

At 09:32 AM 1/13/98 -0600, you wrote:
>O GREAT WISE ONES!!!!!
>
> I have a question.....
> My truck has been doing this hesitation/pulling action lately, but
>it does not die. If I let go of the gas and give it some time it will
>eventually recover. It does not hesitate all the time!
> I have check the timing (which as off by 10 degrees), the vacuum advance
>is okay, it is getting enough gas from the fuel pump, the carb has been
>cleaned, and there no visible damage to any of the engine components. To
>put it simply, I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE HECK IS CAUSING THE HESITATION!
>
> I have a theory that the one of the plug wires might be bad, even
>thought they are new NAPA wire. Does any one know what the resistance of
>a good wire should be, or what resistance make a wire bad?
>
> Any assitance would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
>

Hesitation when you first give it gas would be a bad
accelerator pump (or it's not connected). What you
describe sounds like sticking floats in the bowl or
a clogged fuel filter.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:19:51 EST
From: ECampb5214
Subject: Re: hesitation

its the accelerator pump it went bad on a 77 f250 i seen once

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:45:23 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: ADMIN, list subscriptions?+++

I think it is a compliment? ( that's what it was supposed to be! )
I think I herd it on one of the talk shows while I was home sick!

FTC--- Has any one tried to stop rain gutter rust without major body work. It is
just starting. I thought about metal prep but don't know what it will do to the
paint. ( point here is that I don't want to repaint anything if I can get away
with it )

Thanks

Dana

P.S. FTC= Ford Truck Content ;)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:59:39 EST
From: FORDTRKNUT
Subject: 78/79 Crew Cab Frame??

I found a 1976 F-350 2-wheel drive truck for sale. The guy wants the rearend
out of it & I can buy it for $200.00!!!! Does anybody know where I can find a
1978/1979 F-250/F-350 4x4 frame. Has anybody seen any in any junkyards??? I
am going to buy it and hang onto it until I find a frame or convert my 1979
Bronco to a 4-door. The 4-door Bronco would be neat....but I want a pickup
again. It has a pretty good body for a New Jersey truck. The only rust seams
to be on the bottoms of the front doors. I have two extra doors that I will
use on it when I start to work on it. If anybody knows where one is please E-
mail the list or me. Thanks & Take Care!!!
Wayne Grabley
1979 Bronco XLT
1979 F-350 Ranger Lariet 4x4
(Soon to be 1970'sCrew Cab)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:39:25 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: gutter rust

>FTC--- Has any one tried to stop rain gutter rust without major body work.
It is
>just starting. I thought about metal prep but don't know what it will do to
the
>paint. ( point here is that I don't want to repaint anything if I can get
away
>with it )
>
>Thanks
>
>Dana

God, is this going to be another chrome strip dilemma! :) The most it would
be is a little touchup paint. Better take care of it cause you know them
Southern California trucks. Get a little spot of rust and a year later you
have a little bigger spot of rust. :)
But in the end you'll no doubt decide you don't like rain gutters and take
them off.

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:08:51 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: gutter rust

next truck will be a 74, no rain gutters over the windshield!!!!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:37:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Re: hesitation

Howdy!

I wanted to thank everyone on the their suggestions on
the hesitation problem that I am having with my truck. I could not get it....


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