fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, April 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 196



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Gas Tank Sealer (KREAM) ["Michael Redden" ]
Re: Body Panels ["Michael Redden" ]
Re: Gas Tanks ["kingw" ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: whiter white article ["Gillespie, John D." ]
2V vs 4V 351C heads [Sleddog ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) [Ractrk002 ]
Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? [John MacNamara ]
RE: FE vs 460 :-) [Sleddog ]
For Deacon. Re; Flow Bench Price. ["Chris Samuel"
Re: Gas Tank Sealer [davehall uts.cc.utexas.edu]
Re: Gas Tank Sealer [George Herpich ]
Re: Gas Tanks ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Gas Tank Sealer [John Strauss ]
Re: Boxing the Frame ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) [Stu Varner ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) ["Sam Weatherby" ]
Automatic Shift Collar ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Automatic Shift Collar ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Bellhousing. (Was: Re: Boxing the Frame) [sdelanty ]
Re: FE vs 460 :-) [Ractrk002 ]
Re:Bed Replacement [JRFiero ]
Wood floor replacement... Thanx! [sdelanty ]
Fatal Error, Parts For Sale [Tyler Wilkins ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:17:50 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Sealer (KREAM)

Dennis:

I haven't had to use the product on my bikes (yet!), but several area
motorcycles restorers
I know use it with good results. I've seen some really bad tanks that were
successfully
made usable with the stuff. On the motorcycle tanks, they remove them (of
course)
and agitate them with ball bearings inside to loosen rust and corrosion,
and clean
them out before treatment.

I've seen some similar products advertised for truck gas tanks and I also
was wondering
if any worked well?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:25:41 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: Body Panels

I know that both Macs and Obselete Ford Trucks both sell them,
if it's really bad, you may want to consider trying to get a complete,
rust free truck.

Even if you have to tow it back yourself, it's probably
worth it. You then have all the other parts to use. At $60 a piece
for door handles, $35 for a dome light, it doesn't take long to add up.
I bought a truck for $500 from a guy TX. I have to wait until it's
convenient for him to get it up here. Grills alone, though, for my
truck are about $300, so I'm patient!

Mike

redden enter.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:38:57 -0600
From: "kingw"
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks

JT
First, there was a thread on the safety of in-cab tanks on
this group a while back. I hope you caught it. Second,
I know that some will see what I did to my 68 F100 and
pull out their flamethrower. Just be careful, we're working
with gas tanks here...no open *flames.*
That said, I yanked the 16 gallon in-cab tank from my 68,
and put in a mid-1970s Ch*by 20 gallon 'side saddle' tank.
You could also use the 16 gal Ch*by tank (which is shorter).
The 20 gal fits on the frame rail on the driver's (or pass side,
if you don't have the under bed tool box). The good news
is you get 20 gals, more room in the cab, and the filler
neck sits inside the rear wheelwell (so, you don't need to
cut a hole in the side of the truck if you don't want to. Just
stick the gas nozzle into the wheelwell and fill 'er up).
The bad news is you get all the wonders and pyrotechnics of
the Ch*by exploding gas tanks. Because the tank is on the
outside of the frame rail, if your truck gets t-boned, there is
a high probability the tank will be crushed between the
moron who t-boned you and the frame rail. Cheap way to
put 'flames' on your truck.
I did have to do a little floor surgery to the cab floor of my truck
to fit the 20 gal tank, but you can avoid this w/ the 16 gallon.
And if you don't have the under bed toolbox you could mount
a 16 gal tank on both sides (thus giving yourself 32 gals of
exploding potential). Finally, the tank does sit a little low.
I've never had trouble with it (w/ 2wd), but if you 4 wheel, you
might try something else. I could envision it bottoming out.
All kidding aside, I like having 20 gals and some extra room in
the cab. Hope that helps.

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:54:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 20:47:19 -0800
> Subject: Re: 1975 F-100 4x4

> > Stock it has more compression, and a great deal more aftermarket
> > high performance pieces for it than the 460.
> >
>
> I don't know? 11:1 with stock wrecking yard parts seems pretty high
> to me!

You guys can argue all you want but I can pull my intake without
taking anything else off the engine...............Back in the old
days you could get Sunoco 260 which was pretty good gas and 10:1 was
very common. Some like the chrisler hemi undoubtedly had 11:1 too
but the 428?? I think it was past the muscle era when that came out
wasn't it? We were certainly into unleaded fuel by then.

There are guys who will tell you they run pump gas with 12:1
compression but they have big overlap cams and wedge heads etc. so
the dynamic compression is actually quite a bit less till they get up
in the 6k range where the engine starts making power. Now, what do
they do about running it in the 6k range on pump gas? Don't know but
seems like it would cause trouble??

Anyway who cares what the compression ratio of the 428 was stock,
none of us interested in power are running anything stock anyway so
now tell me the 428 is better.............no, don't, I wouldn't want
you to lie :-) You can get cams, intakes and heads for the 460 to
blow away any combination of FE parts and for less money. The
average Joe can go to the speed shop and put together a 500 hp 460 on
a shoe string, try that with an FE?? Yes you can get parts for the
FE's and make a hot motor but the parts are not available in normal
parts sources, you have to do some hunting.

BTW, I see Summit has a fancy dragster set up with an F-150 and 460
with blower, pretty cool :-)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 06:05:57 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: whiter white article


Now when can I expect the article on
"The Complete Wiring Of A 53-56 Ford F-100"

is there THAT much beer ?????

yes there is but you go from cans/bottles to kegs and not pony kegs

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:10:38 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: 2V vs 4V 351C heads

i have seen some interest here in the difference in 2v & 4v 351C heads, and i got this address off of the fordnatics list:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.waldens.com/fmotorsp.htm

there is some good airflow comparisons there.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:33:06 EST
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

Lunati has a kit for the 429/460 block to make it a 512 ,theres some power
potential.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 07:13:58 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ?

Stu Varner wrote:

> John,
> I do appreciate your help so very much. Here, I have been trying
> to find this and that from people all over the world and right under my
> nose, (is a mustache), a man with every Ford part for trucks known to man
> lives just 2 easy hours from me......
> Why have I never heard of him?? I thought I'd heard about every obsolete
> dealer in the world.

Stu: i discovered him when searching for racetrack molding through the Parts Voice
internet search engine. If you have a part number you'd be surprised to find some
dealers have these old parts. He was one of the sources and after talking to him
realized this guy knows the old Ford trucks and probably cars too! He has all the
parts books to so he can look up stuff for you which is a plus as most of the kids
in the parts departments don't have the expertise or time.

>
>
> >
> >Watch it!! As a previous 442 owner be careful about nuking GM
> >
> Did you say it was a W-30? Ram air optioned 455???? A Major soft spot in
> the hearts of some young men who dislike GM products!

Yep, red with white stripes and it was souped up with a 496 ci 455 with all the
Mondelo mods. Real fast gorgeous machine. Sort of miss it! And I owned a 442 4
speed back in 1970 when they first came out. My first new car and last!!

>
>
> Stu
> Nuke most all of GM!! ;O)

See Stu, your not really a GM hater!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:53:45 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: FE vs 460 :-)

- ----------
From: Ractrk002[SMTP:Ractrk002 aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 1998 9:33 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

Lunati has a kit for the 429/460 block to make it a 512 ,theres some power
potential.

- -------
and also a stock block can be taken out "easy" to 557 cid with a steel
crank, or 521 with a cast iron crank, while about 454 is the practical
limit with an FE. and i for one still believe that there is no substitute
for cubic inches if the other componants can feed it.

don't get me wrong, i like the big FE enignes, but there is more power
available in the 385 and if you want a torque motor, look no farther - the
460 is the raging beast of torque using only stock componants, good cam and
well prepared stock heads and intake.

for mild street performance, they are very equal, but the more power you
want, the more you will be looking at the 460.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:11:04 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: For Deacon. Re; Flow Bench Price.

I am asking $134,286,765.98 for the bench from Deacon only.
Deacon, I will take 4 Shelby Cobras 427'ns only, 2 GT-40's, 6 Pantera's.
and everything made by Stroppe, Holman& Moody, and your PU in lieu of cash!
Stardom has its price Bro!-)

To anyone else we can reach a much more agreeable price off line.

FTC:
Anyone ever used the "Smittybuilt" incab cage kit for the 78-79 Bronco?

Chris
79 Bronco

You can catch flies with honey....
But you catch the most with a dead second mouse!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:28:44 -0500
From: davehall uts.cc.utexas.edu
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Sealer

>My supervisor is the local resident expert on Harley's and he mentioned
>something
>that they use on the gas tanks of the motorcycles that would seem to work on
>our
>trucks, especially older ones. He claims its the best.
>
> Its a product called KREAM. Its a three part process, but to make this short
>your
>tank's interior is cleaned with an acid, and eventually sealed with a liquid
>that
>places an gasoline impurvious coating inside the tank. The only draw back is
>that
>you must remove the tank from the vehicle to do this. He claims it seals even
>pin
>holes and poor seam welds.
>
>Anyway, have any of you guys on this list who own Harley's tried this product?
>I
>could see where it would come in handy for some of the more classic trucks that
>finding a replacement tank for could be difficult.
>
>-=DENNIS=-

Dennis,

Been there, done that on a Harley Sportster (and a Kawasaki). The stuff
works great if you have a rusty tank. Basically you get out all the rust
you can with bolts or ball bearings and then add the acid wash. After the
acid removes the rust you treat with another wash and then add the Kream
which coats the inside. You have to keep turning the tank every few
mintues after adding the Kream. Its important to get all the rust out as
the Kream does not stick to rust very well.

The instructions that come with the kit are pretty easy to follow.

One kit (around $25 if I remember right) was enough to do a four gallon and
a 2 gallon tank with some creme left over. It would probably take two kits
to do a truck tank although the acid can be re-used so you might just need
to buy one kit and an extra bottle of the Kream.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 11:00:40 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Sealer

Por15 has kits for both automotive and bikes. $50 and $24.
George

davehall uts.cc.utexas.edu wrote:

> >My supervisor is the local resident expert on Harley's and he mentioned
> >something
> >that they use on the gas tanks of the motorcycles that would seem to work on
> >our
> >trucks, especially older ones. He claims its the best.
> >
> > Its a product called KREAM. Its a three part process, but to make this short
> >your
> >tank's interior is cleaned with an acid, and eventually sealed with a liquid
> >that
> >places an gasoline impurvious coating inside the tank. The only draw back is
> >that
> >you must remove the tank from the vehicle to do this. He claims it seals even
> >pin
> >holes and poor seam welds.
> >
> >Anyway, have any of you guys on this list who own Harley's tried this product?
> >I
> >could see where it would come in handy for some of the more classic trucks that
> >finding a replacement tank for could be difficult.
> >
> >-=DENNIS=-
>
> Dennis,
>
> Been there, done that on a Harley Sportster (and a Kawasaki). The stuff
> works great if you have a rusty tank. Basically you get out all the rust
> you can with bolts or ball bearings and then add the acid wash. After the
> acid removes the rust you treat with another wash and then add the Kream
> which coats the inside. You have to keep turning the tank every few
> mintues after adding the Kream. Its important to get all the rust out as
> the Kream does not stick to rust very well.
>
> The instructions that come with the kit are pretty easy to follow.
>
> One kit (around $25 if I remember right) was enough to do a four gallon and
> a 2 gallon tank with some creme left over. It would probably take two kits
> to do a truck tank although the acid can be re-used so you might just need
> to buy one kit and an extra bottle of the Kream.
>
> Dave
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 12:19:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks

> From: "kingw"
> Subject: Re: Gas Tanks
> Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:38:57 -0600

> and fill 'er up). The bad news is you get all the wonders and
> pyrotechnics of the Ch*by exploding gas tanks. Because the tank is
> on the outside of the frame rail, if your truck gets t-boned, there

Race cars have rules that require the tank to be above the rear axle.
This is considered the safes place for it since no matter where you
are hit the tank is as far away from the impact as physically
possible in that location and the rear axle has some structural
strength to resist collapsing which adds a bit to the safety margin.

This of course is impractical in a truck so the next best solution is
the inside the frame mounted main tank of later model fords. I don't
know which, if any fit the earlier trucks but I'd start there myself.
The filler neck could be mounted in any of several alternate ways.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 10:58:23 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Gas Tank Sealer

>My supervisor is the local resident expert on Harley's and he mentioned
>something that they use on the gas tanks of the motorcycles that would
seem to >work on our trucks, especially older ones. He claims its the best.
>
> Its a product called KREAM. Its a three part process, but to make this
short >your tank's interior is cleaned with an acid, and eventually sealed
with a >liquid that places an gasoline impurvious coating inside the tank.
The only >draw back is that you must remove the tank from the vehicle to do
this. He >claims it seals even pin holes and poor seam welds.
>
>Anyway, have any of you guys on this list who own Harley's tried this
product? >I could see where it would come in handy for some of the more
classic trucks >that finding a replacement tank for could be difficult.
>
I've used KREAM on my son's Yamaha. It works fine but it would be pretty
pricey if you wanted enough of it for a Ford p/u tank. Auto-Krafters
carries Bill Hirschman (sp?) products and they make a "Gas Tank Etch",
which is the cleaner, and a sealer too. I used that on my '64 and it
worked very well. Still holding up fine after more than a year. As far as
I could tell, it was pretty much the same thing as KREAM as far as the
sealer was concerned. The cleaner for KREAM was different and seemed to
work a little better because you filled the entire tank with it instead of
sloshing it around. Natch this may only be applicable to a 1 gallon moto
tank and would require a LOT of cleaner to do it to a truck tank so
sloshing on that may be the only way to go.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:00:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Boxing the Frame

> Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 15:35:23 -0800
> From: Vogt Family
> Subject: Boxing the Frame

> Before I install a 429 or some other ridiculously huge motor in my
> 61 F-100 4x4, my teacher suggested I box the frame between the two
> forward most cross members. He said that it was probably not

Can't remember what the frame looks like on those but if it's
anything like the 67/68's it has a substantial cross member welded to
the frame under the center of the engine?? If so it's a no brainer,
if not then the mounts will have to be fabricated and welded or
bolted to the frame sides like a 4x4. Oh, I see it is a 4x4 so the
mounts need to be scarfed from a later model pick up or bronco (78/79
if a bronco) and may have to be modified slightly to make them work.

Boxing the frame is a good idea and it will need a good cross member
near the radiator to prevent frame twist from the engine's torque as
well and there should already be a substantial cross member behind
the engine which attaches to both the top and bottom rails of the
frame to stabilize it torsionally. If not that will have to be
addressed too. The engine actually becomes a structural member in a
4x4 since it's mounted between the frame rails and acts like a cross
member but will put a twist on the frame under load due to the
leverage of the frame mounted brackets.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 15:00:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

At 09:33 AM 4/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Lunati has a kit for the 429/460 block to make it a 512 ,theres some power
>potential.

So every FE guy has a smart comeback......Way out of my league but still fun
to think about at night before I go to sleep.....Dove manufacturing has
several FE stroker kits
Push rod engines
450 cid 540 hp $12,045.00 steel cranks cost $14,465.00

488cid 585 hp $17,000

517 cid 635 hp $19448.00

541 cid 650 hp $21,395.00

Then you can stroke a sohc FE if you really want to impress some people with
460's
are you ready for this .......

517 cid sohc $31,020

541 cid sohc $34,210

575 cid sohc $41,250

no hp rating on these, sorry, But, I am sure they are a little more powerful
than
most 460's.

BTW- If the FE did not exist, I would be a huge supporter of the 460!!

Smile and dream pleasant dreams of smokin a chebby with either a 460 or FE
powered by Ford!!!



>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:10:31 -0800
From: "Sam Weatherby"
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

Can't agree.
Look in the Motorsport catalog.
Cobra Jet heads, 600 inch kits.
Lots of 460 stuff. Remember the Boss 429? Close enough to a 460.
FE's are cool and definately neat. But I bet price per power a 460 could
beat one easily.
Not to mention EFI possibilities.
-srw

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner
To: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)


>At 09:33 AM 4/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Lunati has a kit for the 429/460 block to make it a 512 ,theres some power
>>potential.
>
>So every FE guy has a smart comeback......Way out of my league but still
fun
>to think about at night before I go to sleep.....Dove manufacturing has
>several FE stroker kits
>Push rod engines
>450 cid 540 hp $12,045.00 steel cranks cost $14,465.00
>
>488cid 585 hp $17,000
>
>517 cid 635 hp $19448.00
>
>541 cid 650 hp $21,395.00
>
>Then you can stroke a sohc FE if you really want to impress some people
with
>460's
>are you ready for this .......
>
>517 cid sohc $31,020
>
>541 cid sohc $34,210
>
>575 cid sohc $41,250
>
>no hp rating on these, sorry, But, I am sure they are a little more
powerful
>than
>most 460's.
>
>BTW- If the FE did not exist, I would be a huge supporter of the 460!!
>
>Smile and dream pleasant dreams of smokin a chebby with either a 460 or FE
>powered by Ford!!!
>
>
>
>>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:14:19 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Automatic Shift Collar

Someone mentioned the shift collar for a 3 on the tree shifter. Does
anyone have experience with the shift collar at the top of the steering
column failing? A friend of mine had one fail and was lucky enough to
be able to find a replacement (he was out of town at the time camping.)
What can I look for to see if the collar is wearing out? Don't want to
be stranded. Should I just get a spare and keep it in the truck? How
difficult are these to replace?

TIA,

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:24:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Automatic Shift Collar

> From: "Hogan, Tom"
> Subject: Automatic Shift Collar
> Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 13:14:19 -0800

> the time camping.) What can I look for to see if the collar is
> wearing out? Don't want to be stranded. Should I just get a spare
> and keep it in the truck? How difficult are these to replace?

In my experience they break where the pin goes through to hold the
shifter in. I've never seen one "wear" out but it doesn't take much
abuse to break them since they're only white metal and very thin.

The end of the shifter and the tube do wear to the point that they
don't work very well however but you can build them back up with weld
I should think. I never had to go that far with any of mine but I
replaced several of the shift collars due to breaking them.

I believe these may still be available through ford, not sure but
that's where I got my last one, oh, maybe 15 years ago......

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:33:48 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

> Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 15:00:50 -0600 (CST)
> From: Stu Varner
> Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

> So every FE guy has a smart comeback......Way out of my league but
> still fun to think about at night before I go to sleep.....Dove
> manufacturing has several FE stroker kits Push rod engines 450 cid
> 540 hp $12,045.00 steel cranks cost $14,465.00
>
> 488cid 585 hp $17,000

This is lots of fun but lets face it, even with a steel crank $2000
and SVO siamesed block $2800 and fancy parts in it a hot 460 won't
cost anywhere near that much and the potential with the aluminum 429,
cast iron sleeved block is way over 600 cubes and even that is only
$4500 so I don't get where you guys are finding any comparison??

Remember we're talking $/hp here?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 15:44:14 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Bellhousing. (Was: Re: Boxing the Frame)

>I have been struggling with finding a bellhousing to mate the T98 to ANY
>motor that was in production after the Y blocks went out.
>Please let me know

Isn't the bellhousing for the T-98 the same as T-18 and NP435?
They should be readily available at the wreckers for almost
any motor You might care to use...
I *may* still have a bellhousing for a T-18 to 240/6, 300/6, 289,
302, 351w laying in the yard. The honeysuckle bush may have eaten
it by now, but I could go look if you want it..
Where are You located?


Steve

Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 18:49:37 EST
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: FE vs 460 :-)

I'd never rip on FE's though there all Fords and do the job fine. I just lean
towards the 429/460 because I have more experence with them.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 19:13:15 EST
From: JRFiero
Subject: Re:Bed Replacement

In a message dated 98-03-31 22:48:10 EST, I wrote, but it bounced because I
added to, instead of replacing, the digest subject:


>Subject: Re: Bed Replacement - fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #190
>
>Steve, et al -
> I know you mentioned you already had the oak, but ...
> I'm going to try Trex, the composite product of recycled plastic and wood
>fiber. Made primarily for decks, its basically impervious to rot,
>dimensionally stable, can be worked with wood tools, etc.
> If I put oak in, I really wouldn't want to use it after. With Trex or PT,
I
>wouldn't mind.
> My current bed ('51) is just rotted to hell. 51 was the first year of
>exposed wood - previous years had wood, but covered with sheet metal. So,
>the previous owner went ahead and covered the rotted bed with the same kind
of
>sheet metal as the older trucks had. It works, but sooner or later its got
to go.
> I don't think I'll need a die (or dead!) grinder for my rusty bolts, one
>good shot with a cold chisel ought to do it. A lot of 'em, tho.
>
>>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 17:09:34 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Wood floor replacement... Thanx!

Thanks to all who posted about replacing the wood floor in the bed
of my '71 !
It sounds like the bed should be little trouble to remove.
When I'm ready I'll coat all the oak lumber with a few coats of spar
varnish, diluted for the first few coats. All hardware gets replaced
with stainless steel...

Thanks much!


Steve

Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.
-- T. S. Eliot

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 19:29:24 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Fatal Error, Parts For Sale

Fellow List members,
There has been a loss among us. My nearly completed '73 F-250 has been
for-ever lost. As many of you know I had been planning to head south to
find cancer free truck parts. I drove the '73 down to a relatives place
in Arkansas last Fri night. When I arrived I was like a kid in a candy
store in the boneyards down there! My truck and trailer were filled in
one day! The last morning I went out to breakfast with the people I was
staying with and had my truck and trailer parked in a parking lot right
off the road. I was heading home to WI right from the resteraunt. As
we were inside a semi pulled into the lot and caught the front end of my
truck which then somehow got caught on the semi. I still can't logically
figure out what exactly happened but my truck, loaded with parts, was
drilled into the nearby wall. I mean drilled! Completely totalled, the
frame in the front end was mangeled! So now my truck has found a new
home in a boneyard somewhere in Arkansas. Most of the parts I had just
bought were luckily unharmed. So there I was stranded in Arkansas so I
began searching for a new project that could possibly drive me most of
the way or all the way home. I thought about renting a U-Haul but since
I had an excuse to buy a whole vehicle I went for it.

This is what I came up with:
I found sitting in a farmers field next to his barn the following:
One 1967 F-100 with a I6 and c-4 (I'm guessing on the tranny) (parting
out)
TWO! 1968 F-100's with 390's both with 3 on the tree, one only has
65,000 miles on it.
Beautiful, rust-free, straight bodies!

The farmer said I could have all three for $250, and he just wanted them
out of there!
I paid cash on the spot! I drove one of the '68's home and it pulled
like a charm the whole way after a quick tune-up.

So here is my dilemma, I have nowhere to put them so my other 'toys' are
going up for sale before I bring the other two home. I also want to get
rid of most of my 73-79 Ford Stuff and parts laying around.

Here is a list of parts I have:

Parting out my 'other' baby
1979 F-100 4x2, the one i have been working on, parts on that are as
follows:
Complete 351M but in pieces right now. I have everything! Carb, intake,
alternator, etc, this was a running (Great runner too but low oil
pressure) truck until last august when i pulled it out to put in a oil
pump and it ended up as a complete rebuild. I will part out the motor
or any other items parts, many parts are new as I was in the middle of
the rebuild

- -Brand New (in box) 400 pistons
- -Brand New Rod and main bearings (in box)
- -Block Stripped down to the block, new cam bearings, cylinders have been
honed ($50)
- -Oil Pan Sanblasted and Primed, ready for paint ($10)
- -Water Pump sandblasted and ready for paint ($10)
- -Brand New unused Melling high output oil pump ($15)
- -Dynomax Headers, used for about 6 months ($50)
- -Brand new intake manifold gasket, valley pan type, Parts America Price
$48, will sell for $25
- -Complete engine gasket set without oil pan gasket ($30)
- -Newer air pump (used for about 5 months) ($15)
- -Stock heads, no problems ($40)
I will sell any and all parts of this truck

Other good parts on the truck
- -Gas tank in great shape, about 5 years old, good sending unit ($25)
- -Ford 9" Rear with 4.11 gears and some type of posi unit, new u/joint,
($100 for whole axle)
- -Cragar wheels with Radial Widetrack rubber with a ton of tread left.....


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