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fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, April 1 1998 Volume 02 : Number 194 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks61-79-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Cam Selection and F500 [pickup65 Re:Looking for '79 parts ["Ronald D. Miller" ] Re: Retrofitting a rear swaybar... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] 1975 F-100 4x4 [BDIJXS ] AC system/15" wheels with twin piston calipers [james oxley RE: Cam Selection and F500 [Sleddog ] RE: ?????????? [Sleddog ] RE: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. [Sleddog ] RE: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. [Sleddog ] Swap Meet in Columbus ? ["Smock, John Thomas" Re: Hi, and looking for 79 parts ["kingw" ] RE: 2100/2150 carbs ["Dave Resch" ] Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? [John MacNamara ] Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? [Stu Varner ] Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? [John MacNamara ] Re: 360 engines ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] '77 F150 Help (long) [DKS ] Re: 2100/2150 carbs ["Deacon" ] Re: AC system/15" wheels with twin piston calipers [james oxley Body Panels [Tony Marino ] Re: '77 F150 Help (long) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:45:20 -0500 From: pickup65 Subject: Cam Selection and F500 I need help picking a cam for the 351C that I am rebuilding. Its going in my daily driver F100 so I need something that will offer more torque. I have been looking in the PAW catalog and crower makes a cam that sounds about right. Its called the BAJA Beast and is designed for "stump pulling power and torque...1200 to 3800 RPM." The specs are: Lobe Center 112 Deg. Duration: Advert. Int 258 deg. exh 264 deg. Duration: Lift : int .477" exh .486" Does this cam sound right? Also for those who are interested in the F500 saga: We got it home sunday. We left Raleigh at 7:15 sunday morning arrived at our destination in Maryland at 11:30. Loading it up on the trailer and chaining it down took an hour. Started back at 12:30. Arrived at my wife's uncle's farm outside Raleigh at 5:30. Rolled it off the trailer and breathed a big sigh of relief. What a day! The whole trip cost $70 in fuel too. Jon E. Purut Pickup65 JCPurut Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut 1964 F500 (Rockwell 6.20 gear rear end, T-88 tranny) 1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver (soon to have Stump Pulling Power) 1965 F100 1977 F150 1970 Mustang Fastback 1993 Escort Wagon (wife's car) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 98 08:38:45 -0500 From: "Ronald D. Miller" Subject: Re:Looking for '79 parts > >Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:22:53 -0500 >From: "Sean R. Kerns" >Subject: Hi, and looking for '79 parts (sorta long) > >Hi all, > >I'm brand new to this list, so I figured I start out with a little >intro: >My name is Sean Kerns. I live in Cincinnati, OH. >I have two "children"; 1 Ford, and one "non-Ford". >The "non-Ford" is a '48 CJ-2A that's all stock. >Now, my other one, the Ford, is a little different story. It's a '79 >F-250 4x4, that I've had since '90. It was my daily driver for about 3 >years, and is again now, so I get to put some more $$ into it, which >is always a good thing. >Anyway, it's got the normal Dana 44/Dana 60 front and rear axles, C6, >NP205 t-case, 33" Mud Terrains, etc. Now for the not-stock stuff. The >truck originally came with a 351M in it, but the previous owner >swapped in a 429 from a '68 Thunderbird. Very peppy motor, but for as >finnicky as it is, I'd almost rather still have the 351. >The other thing he swapped in from the Thunderbird is the 6-way power >seats. Sounds good on the surface, but not really. They don't fit in >the truck very well for my tastes, and my dog (the other, other child) >really would prefer a becnh seat. So, as part of my latest >rejuvination efforts, I've been trying to find a plain old stock bench >seat for this thing. >I've had a terrible time finding one. All the local yards that have >'73-'79 trucks either don't have the seats, or the seats are trashed. >I'm not picky on color. The interior is maroon, but I can always put a >cover on the seat, right? >Can anyone recomend a good source for one of these things? Oh, before >I forget, I'm also looking for a dash pad for it. I've found "dash >covers", but I don't want to go that route. I remember when I worked >on my Mustang, there were places you could get just about every >conceivable piece as OEM or repro. > >Thanks in advance, from me and my dog. > >Sean Auto Krafters, Inc. has reproduction black dash pads for 73-79 F-series at $249.95. Part number is D3TZ-1004282. Phone number is 800-228-7346. 1998 catalog for 73-79 is at the printers. Catalogs for 53-72 F-series and 92-98 F-series are available now. Any Ford truck list members wishing a free copy may email me your address at akraft I'll see that a copy is mailed to you when they are ready in approx. 3 weeks. Please specfy year and model of Ford truck owned. Note: All email and snail mail addresses are kept confidential. Thanks, Ron Miller P.S. We'll also be at the Ford meet this weekend in Columbus as well as the Autofair in Charlotte, NC. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters. com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 10:02:23 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Retrofitting a rear swaybar... > From: danadeb > Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 18:48:02 -0800 > Subject: Re: Retrofitting a rear swaybar... > I had the same problem with a sway bar I pulled from the rear of a > torino, I had a muffler shop spot weld the bracket to the housing. ( > Be careful to not over use the heat or you could warp the rear The little cones on the axle housing are there for location purposes and to make the brackets mirror images of each other so they can't be mixed up. The tab the hole is in is too weak to actually restrain the bracket IMHO but the bracket is made to mate with other parts on the axle housing which do tend to retain it's location. I wouldn't worry too much about the locator pins myself but don't trust the "U" bolts to hold it in place. It needs something solid on the housing to butt up against to ensure it will stay put. I can't remember how the rear is mounted since it hasn't given me any trouble I haven't really looked closely at it but I thought it was attached to the spring perches somehow or at least used them as an anchor? If you locate the brackets on the axle housing and set it all up and tighten the "U" bolts then you could have someone put two tacks, one on each end (radially) of the bracket so the clamping force of the "U" bolts will keep it trapped between the tacks even if the weld breaks since the bead will be raised above the axle surface to act like a lug. These tacks won't be enough heat or stress to affect the tubing of the axle housing significantly. The front sway bar goes in front of the axle with the arms under it and going to the rear to the frame links. I would imagine the rear would be mounted in a similar manner so the brackets are to the rear of the housing and the links are in front of it?? 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:19:16 EST From: BDIJXS Subject: 1975 F-100 4x4 Hey Justin, The one bummer about this year is the "power-assisted" steering setup. I'm pretty sure the 75's still had the hoaky "sensor" and hydraulic ram setup with about 45 hoses, along with the manual power steering box. Don't worry, though, there is hope. You can update the steering box to a 76-79 and solve the problems. Other than this, its probably a pretty good rig.... If you go ahead, send me a message and I can give you a few more details on fixing the steering stuff... Colorado Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:37:12 -0800 From: james oxley Subject: AC system/15" wheels with twin piston calipers Hey all, Picked up a complete (dash and all) AC system for my 78 yesterday. Even got a brown dash, nicer than mine. Gonna be a major project to get that in, as firewall hole is totally different for non-AC bronc's. Anyone know if the "outside air" hole in pass side kick panel area is the same for AC/non-AC 78, 79's? I also got parts for a Dana 44 HD (twin piston calipers) conversion. Got one whole side and the caliper and caliper bracket from the other side. I believe these are the same calipers rotors that are on a dana 60 front(which I should have ina couple weeks), so I am using the one complete setup I got for clearance measurements. As was stated to me, 15" wheels will not fit with twin piston calipers without about 1/2 of grinding. I have 35's and 38's in 15" size. I plan on selling 38's and getting 44's, so I can go to 16.5" on that. The 35's are BFG AT's. Normally, I wouldn't even think about such things, but if I get 1/4 wheel spacers, I can make 15" wheels fit with the twin piston calipers. Still need to grind the calipers, but they radius in near the edge of caliper, so actual grinding will be much less. I don't think the wheel spacers will hurt much. I would only be using them with 15 X 8 wheels and 35 AT's on a dana 60 front axle (15" fits on rear allready). The 44's would not need any spacing. OX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:55:55 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: Cam Selection and F500 if you ever run it over 3800 rpm, it is too small. i do not know what tranny/gears you have but that will run out of breath is you need any highway speed IMHO. that is about the same as a stock detroit cam according to those numbers. i would add up to 10 deg duration, and .025 or so of lift and call it a better choice. i feel that cam companies are conservative. but, it depends on rear gears, tranny, tire height, etc. sleddog - ---------- From: Jon E Purut[SMTP:pickup65 Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 7:45 AM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: Cam Selection and F500 . Its called the BAJA Beast and is designed for "stump pulling power and torque...1200 to 3800 RPM." The specs are: Lobe Center 112 Deg. Duration: Advert. Int 258 deg. exh 264 deg. Duration: Lift : int .477" exh .486" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:57:39 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: ?????????? excuse me??? i think i am confused. i got the shelby part, but the other thing. . . . sleddog - ---------- From: Justin Frank Wimpey[SMTP:jfwimpey Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 10:34 PM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: Re: 1975 F-100 4x4 > Don't you mean 460? > That would work quite nicely.... But the 428 has much more power potential. Now if I could talk my Great Aunt's Cousin out of some heads or a car I'd be set. (I'll give you a hint, her last name use to be Shelby.....) Later, - -- Justin Wimpey North Carolina State University 333 Maywood Ave. FSAE Engine Development, SAE Publicity Chairman Raleigh, N.C. 27603 jfwimpey (919) 821-0776 86 GTi, 76 RD400C, 95 CB1000 +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 | List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:58:38 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. mine ain't for sale, as i keep thinking i will use it again for a bike buildup or such. i have a couple of bikes and 4 wheelers that i would love to build up the power on and porting is the best thing to do. it was my grandfathers and used for R&D for his engines, and therefore has many hours on it. sleddog - ---------- From: Deacon[SMTP:deconblu Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 1:23 AM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: Re: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. From: Chris Samuel >Yep, as Deacon said, It is for sale. >I guess that Ol'Sleddog has one, bet his is for sale too, from the sounds of >it his may have less hours on it, so it may be the better deal! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 10:00:01 -0500 From: Sleddog Subject: RE: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. "on a 2 valve engine, peak flow has the greatest influence on peak power, whereas low lift flow influences power at engine speeds beyond peak power. extra low lift flow allows the engine to 'hang-on' longer at high rpm." - --David Vizard. and, yes you can flow (looking at % improvement) with this size bench, and maybe even a small block head (superflow sells SB chubby adapters for it), but not heads like i have that flow like sewer pipes during superbowl halftime (which is what i said in my first post.) sure, you may see a pressure differential change accross the port, but there is a thing called laminar flow and turbulant flow. strange things happen when flow changes to turbulant flow, and a bigger flow bench is needed to simulate this. so like i said, i wouldn't work for ME, MY 460 heads. or i would have them on my bench now! i do see the low lift thing in magazines. just not in super chevy or pop. hot roddin', look in places like drag racing monthly. david vizard writes for this mag, and he is a very respected automotive writer. sleddog - ---------- From: Chris Samuel[SMTP:fourmuelz Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 11:46 PM To: fordtrucks61-79 Subject: My OOP'S: Flow Bench. Here is a little secret that may take some thinking to get: The low lift air flow is the most critical portion of the lift, the overall time that the valve spends at low lift is greater then the time spent at high lift. You never read this in the magazines! So this bench will work surprisingly well for the big heads. Of course were I consistently building 400+HP engines I would get a SF 300 or 600; and that is what I have unlimited access to now. You got to start somewhere and this unit is IMHO THE place to start learning about air. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 11:41:14 -0500 From: "Smock, John Thomas" Subject: Swap Meet in Columbus ? I read some one saying something about a swap meet in Columbus. Number one which Columbus? and number two what if anything special is going to be there. I'm looking for parts for a 1979 F-250 4wd, Particularly trying to get a hold of the set of 16" wheels and hub caps but also looking for some motor parts also. If anyone can direct me to any swap meets or junk yards in the Indiana Ohio Kentucky and Illinois area I would be greatly appreciative. Smock Columbus, IN 1979 F-250 4wd 1984 Ranger 2wd ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 11:43:54 -0600 From: "kingw" Subject: Re: Hi, and looking for 79 parts Sean, Have you tried the junkyard (don't recall the name) that is in Harrison OH? Take I-74 to the Harrison exit and turn right off the ramp (past Wendys). Down a couple of miles (past the BFI transfer station), you turn right (I think there is a flashing light at the intersection). The yard is down on the left. I don't remember them being in the phone book, so you may have missed them. They specialize in Ford stuff, and they had a good selection of old F100s when I was there. Did you also try 'Mad Man's' in Ross OH? My only expericence was that they were overpriced and rude, but they might be able to help ya. Good luck. Bill (ex Cincinnati person) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:54:06 -0700 From: "Dave Resch" Subject: RE: 2100/2150 carbs >From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" >Subject: RE: 2100/2100 carbs > >Are you talking about the "air metering rods"? As far as I know >all 2150's have these "ballbat" rods. I had assumed that they >were strictly vacuum driven but the description in the shop >manual says that they are mechanical like you said. Yo Dale: So your carb has these metering rods? The Motorcraft 2150 that is original equipment on my truck has no metering rods. I have found another truck w/ the identical carb (matching part #s) in a local junkyard, and it is the same w/ no metering rods in the booster venturis. What is the part # on your carb? >Ford describes the booster venturi as; "The booster venturi >contains high speed bleed orifices, along with a mechanical >high speed control system. This system consists of a >mechanical lift rod that actuates reverse-tapered "ballbat" >metering rods in the high speed bleed orifices. This allow >control of fuel/air mixture to the booster venturis for more >precise high speed operation and improved low-speed >response." Hmmm... That sounds like what I want! I wonder if the design I have w/ no metering rods is a later or newer system (since mine is on a 1980 truck) or just a simpler/less sophisticated system. Maybe on my carb w/ no metering rods, they sacrificed the "more precise" high speed operation for "improved" low speed response. I wonder whether the performance-oriented 1982 Mustang carb is more modern/sophisticated or just older and more effective. Hmmm... as usual, more questions than answers. >"On some carburetors, a hot idle compensator (HIC) is >mounted in the air horn. A bimetal strip opens a valve to >admit air below the throttle plates. To increase hot >engine idle speeds and thereby increase coolant flow to >prevent engine overheating." If the air horn is the top of the carb from the air cleaner gasket up, then that's where mine is located. Otherwise the description seems to coincide w/ how it works on this carb. I wonder if this HIC device augments the vacuum advance signal switching (by the coolant PVS, between carb spark port and manifold vacuum), which is supposed to do the same thing, increase idle speed to prevent overheating, or if the HIC replaces the vac signal switch. So, Dale, does your carb have a HIC on it? Should be on the right side, just behind the choke tower. >Don't know why they want so much for that rebuild kit. >I paid about $20 for the last one I bought, I'd ask to >look at it and see what's inside. :-) Yeah, I thought about that, too. But the rebuild kit is a special order item, so they don't even have them in stock in the shops, and you gotta pay in advance for it. :-( Maybe it is just the "high performance" rip-off after all. OTOH, if the metering rods were used in other 2150 carbs, maybe I could get a cheap kit that would have the parts I need. Are the metering rods included in the rebuild kit? Thanks. Dave R. (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:54:29 -0800 From: John MacNamara Subject: Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? Smock, John Thomas wrote: > I read some one saying something about a swap meet in Columbus. > Number one which Columbus? and number two what if anything special is > going to be there. I'm looking for parts for a 1979 F-250 4wd, > Particularly trying to get a hold of the set of 16" wheels and hub > caps but also looking for some motor parts also. If anyone can > direct me to any swap meets or junk yards in the Indiana Ohio > Kentucky and Illinois area I would be greatly appreciative. > Smock > Columbus, IN > > 1979 F-250 4wd > 1984 Ranger 2wd John: That was me. I have been conducting some private conversations with a couple of gentleman from Ohio who are looking for parts for 78/79 Ford pickups. There is a gentleman in Tennesee who is going to be in Columbus ohio this weekend and he could bring any parts that you might need. His name is Jimmy Rose and his number is:615 443 3086 Sorry for the confusion John > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 > | List removal information is on the web site. | > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 11:05:50 -0600 (CST) From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? If anyone can >> direct me to any swap meets or junk yards in the Indiana Ohio >> Kentucky and Illinois area I would be greatly appreciative. >> Smock >> Columbus, IN >> >> 1979 F-250 4wd >> 1984 Ranger 2wd > >John: That was me. I have been conducting some private conversations with >a couple of gentleman from Ohio who are looking for parts for 78/79 Ford >pickups. There is a gentleman in Tennesee who is going to be in Columbus >ohio this weekend and he could bring any parts that you might need. His >name is Jimmy Rose and his number is:615 443 3086 > >Sorry for the confusion > >John Having been a former Buckeye myself at one point, The Columbus Swap meet is in the opinions of many one of the 2 or 3 best swap meets to go to for ford parts in the whole wide world.....unless you had access to the secret Ford warehouse somewhere, but then it wouldn't be a swap meet, it would be heaven!! John, could you tell me a little about Jimmy Rose?? Where in Tennessee is he located, it lokks like a Nashville area code. I'd be interested in looking him up. Stu Nuke GM! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:12:01 -0800 From: John MacNamara Subject: Re: Swap Meet in Columbus ? Stu Varner wrote: > Having been a former Buckeye myself at one point, The Columbus Swap meet is > in the opinions of many one of the 2 or 3 best swap meets to go to for ford > parts in the whole wide world.....unless you had access to the secret Ford > warehouse somewhere, but then it wouldn't be a swap meet, it would be heaven!! > > John, could you tell me a little about Jimmy Rose?? Where in Tennessee is > he located, it lokks like a Nashville area code. I'd be interested in > looking him up. Stu: He has a big warehouse of old parts for Ford trucks and he sould me the last two racetrack molding for a supercab and he seems to have everything I've ever needed. He ain't cheap but if you have to have it and you want to talk to some one who has the part numbers and knows what you are looking for. He's the man. Real nice gentleman and I believe he is in Nashville but not sure. > > > Stu > Nuke GM! Watch it!! As a previous 442 owner be careful about nuking GM ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 13:12:14 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: 360 engines > From: "Hunter" > Subject: 360 engines > Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 20:15:38 -0500 > Does any one know how to keep manifold bolts on a 72 360 tight? The > RH manifold especially, will start leaking after about 3 months even > after using new, hardened, studs. Is there any loctite substance > available that will do the job? jhb Cast iron manifolds have special needs. The proper way to install them is with anti-seize on the manifold side of the gasket and none on the head side (for non graphite types) to allow for heat expansion. You also need to torque the bolts progressively tighter in the center to looser at the ends to allow the manifold to move and use anti-seize on the threads as well. I put a set on my 460 this way several years ago with a max of 22# torque on the center bolts to 17# on the extremities and they stayed tight for many years. Headers now are a different story from what I hear, mine have stayed tight though so far :-) 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's 78 Lincoln Town Car, 460, C-6, 19.5' long! - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:26:57 -0800 From: DKS Subject: '77 F150 Help (long) Hello, my name is Doug and I am new to the list. I recently inherited a 1977 F150 4x4 with the 351 engine and need some expert advise. The truck will hesitate and stall if I try to accelerate while making a turn from a stop. It will restart very easily. After I studied the carburetor for awhile, I noticed the accelerator pump linkage was loose in the clip. So, I pushed the linkage firmly in the clip. The truck now does not stall and generally accelerates fine but there still is a slight hestitation (acceptable), but ocassionally stumbles and backfires when accelerating from a stop. I am trying to adjust the timing and idle speed on the vehicle. If I remember correctly, the fast idle is set at ~1,800 RPM and the curb idle is ~600 RPM. If I'm measuring this right, the ignition timing is set at 17 degrees BTDC. This seems overly retarded to me, but the pointer is on the left side and am assuming the single pulley mark is TDC. Does any of the listers know what the specifications are for the idle speeds & timing? According to the manuals that I have looked at, they all specify specs are on the underhood label. This is great, but this truck has no underhood label. Would appreciate any expert opinions on this problem. Thanks for your help. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:32:40 -0800 From: "Deacon" Subject: Re: 2100/2150 carbs My '76 F350's Motorcraft 2150 on a 360 has metering rods. Deacon deconblu ============================================================== Early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese ============================================================== Deacon's http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/ - -----Original Message----- From: Dave Resch To: fordtrucks61-79-digest Date: Wednesday, April 01, 1998 8:55 AM Subject: RE: 2100/2150 carbs >>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" >>Subject: RE: 2100/2100 carbs >> >>Are you talking about the "air metering rods"? As far as I know >>all 2150's have these "ballbat" rods. I had assumed that they >>were strictly vacuum driven but the description in the shop >>manual says that they are mechanical like you said. > >Yo Dale: > >So your carb has these metering rods? The Motorcraft 2150 that is original >equipment on my truck has no metering rods. I have found another truck w/ >the identical carb (matching part #s) in a local junkyard, and it is the >same w/ no metering rods in the booster venturis. What is the part # on >your carb? > >>Ford describes the booster venturi as; "The booster venturi >>contains high speed bleed orifices, along with a mechanical >>high speed control system. This system consists of a >>mechanical lift rod that actuates reverse-tapered "ballbat" >>metering rods in the high speed bleed orifices. This allow >>control of fuel/air mixture to the booster venturis for more >>precise high speed operation and improved low-speed >>response." > >Hmmm... That sounds like what I want! I wonder if the design I have w/ no >metering rods is a later or newer system (since mine is on a 1980 truck) or >just a simpler/less sophisticated system. Maybe on my carb w/ no metering >rods, they sacrificed the "more precise" high speed operation for >"improved" low speed response. I wonder whether the performance-oriented >1982 Mustang carb is more modern/sophisticated or just older and more >effective. Hmmm... as usual, more questions than answers. > >>"On some carburetors, a hot idle compensator (HIC) is >>mounted in the air horn. A bimetal strip opens a valve to >>admit air below the throttle plates. To increase hot >>engine idle speeds and thereby increase coolant flow to >>prevent engine overheating." > >If the air horn is the top of the carb from the air cleaner gasket up, then >that's where mine is located. Otherwise the description seems to coincide >w/ how it works on this carb. I wonder if this HIC device augments the >vacuum advance signal switching (by the coolant PVS, between carb spark >port and manifold vacuum), which is supposed to do the same thing, increase >idle speed to prevent overheating, or if the HIC replaces the vac signal >switch. > >So, Dale, does your carb have a HIC on it? Should be on the right side, >just behind the choke tower. > >>Don't know why they want so much for that rebuild kit. >>I paid about $20 for the last one I bought, I'd ask to >>look at it and see what's inside. :-) > >Yeah, I thought about that, too. But the rebuild kit is a special order >item, so they don't even have them in stock in the shops, and you gotta pay >in advance for it. :-( Maybe it is just the "high performance" rip-off >after all. > >OTOH, if the metering rods were used in other 2150 carbs, maybe I could get >a cheap kit that would have the parts I need. Are the metering rods >included in the rebuild kit? > >Thanks. > >Dave R. (M-block devotee) > > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 >| List removal information is on the web site. | >+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 13:07:02 -0800 From: james oxley Subject: Re: AC system/15" wheels with twin piston calipers Don Grossman wrote: > Hey Ox, can you fill me in on some of the Dana 44 parts that are used on > Dana 60's. Well, I'm,, not exactly sure, but this is how I think it goes. 1/2 ton is dana 44, coil spring, single caliper, small rotor. small axle shaft 3/4 ton is dana 44 , leaf spring. twin piston calipers, larger rotor, larger spindle/hub with inside bearing larger, outside bearing seems same as 1/2 ton. locking hub mech seems same as 1/2 ton. small axle shafts same as 1/2 ton. 1 ton is dana 60, leaf spring, twin piston caliper, larger rotor (not sure yet if twin piston caliper and larger rotor are the same as 3/4 ton) larger spindle and hub than 3/4 ton. Different locking mech than 3/4 ton. Larger axle shafts. > Right now I have a 78 Dana 44 with the twin piston calipers and > such and as you know finding a Ford Dana 60 is like finding, well realy >hard to do anyway. If I could get just a housing and swap over my >brakes and such. it might be a little easier. I think the only common parts are the twin piston calipers, rotors and "maybe" the caliper bracket. Until I get dana 60 front in my hands, I won't know for sure. I'm not even sure if dana 60 front uses same hub nut tool. I think the spindle/hub is different from dana 44 HD to dana 60. I would imagine it has to be, due to axle shaft being larger. > I noticed you are on the Bronco list also. There was someone who did a disk > brake conversion on a rear Dana 60 but I lost the web address. That was me http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.off -road. com /4x4web/ford/bigbroncos/tech/reardisc/index.html > Happen to > know where it is? Also, while at the wreckers picking up my calipers I > forgot to measure the size of the Caddy rotors, wouldn't happen to have run > accoss these numbers in the disk brake conversions anywhere have you? I could measure them, but you could just as easily call TSM. The guy is real cool and doesn't really care if you buy rotors/calipers from him or not. He will give you sizes/years ect... OX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 13:02:55 -0500 (EST) From: Tony Marino Subject: Body Panels Hello Everyone! My '78 shortbed project is coming along nicely, and it's come to the point of doing the body now. The body I have for it is basically crap, but solid and useable, but I would like to find new panels for it that are of the same quality as OEM. The question is if I'm going to be putting this much money into a new body, and I don't have the ability to grab one from down south, what do you guys think about going fiberglass? What are the advantages and disadvantages? I don't know of any manufacturers that sell them, does anybody have any information on manufacturers that I could get a catalog from? Thanks in advance. Tony 78 F-150 4x4 I-6, 4spd 78 F-250 4x4 I-6, 4spd 93 F-150 4x4 I-6, 5spd (not as much fun) http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pscico.com/~tony ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 14:28:37 +0000.... 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