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Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 03:50:39 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #182
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, March 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 182



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: "Irv Bishko Auto Literature" [BlueOval77 ]
percolating carb [DC Beatty ]
Re: percolating carb [Don Grossman ]
RE: 16" or 16.5" [JChrist705 ]
Re: timing retard [sdelanty ]
Re: Timing Retard [sdelanty ]
Whiter whites, brighter brights! [sdelanty ]
Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio) [sdelanty ]
Top Loader 4-speed [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)]
Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250 [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGE]
AOD shifter ["Harvey, Blaine" ]

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Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:13:12 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard

Jon E Purut wrote:

> In my experience the best cars to look at for 4100 carbs is the late 50's
> to early 60's Galaxy and Fairlanes. I have seen quite a few in my junk
> yard excursions.


What part of the country are you in?

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 00:19:44 EST
From: BlueOval77
Subject: Re: "Irv Bishko Auto Literature"

Hello all. In a letter from Chad Dailey dated 03-02-98 he gave an address
and phone # for the "Irv Bishko Auto Literature" store. Just wanted to let
everyone know they have a toll free # of: (800) 544-3312. I got an owner's
manual for my '77 F-150 in excellent condition from them. The bad part? It
cost me $25 + shipping! They're a little expensive, but they do have quality
stuff for old trucks.

As an aside, if you haven't already been, please check out my website.
It's not much to look at, but there's some great links strictly FORD sites and
other great 4WD sites. You can get there by clicking here:
BlueOval77's Home Page
:)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 00:23:35 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: percolating carb

Hey all. Is it Spring yet??

My truck was flooding so I took the top off to adjust the float level. Ge=
t
this--the floats weren't even clipped onto the needle seat. They were
bobbing around in there like a dead carp. The clip was attached to the
float shaft backward too. Small wonder I was having problems, eh? =


So now if I stop somewhere for 20 or so minutes and go to start the beast=

again it is *very* difficult to start--have to hold the gas on the floor
and crank like mad. If I stop for approx. 40 or more minutes and go to
start it there are no starting problems. I think my carb is boiling the g=
as
as it has been pretty warm here lately and it seems to coincide with the
problem. Is there anything I can do to stop this? It's getting annoying.

It's a Motorcraft 2100 (I think) 2V with a manual choke on a 352. Judging=

by the temp. gauge the motor isn't unduly hot. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. =


Drew Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:50:24 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: percolating carb

DC Beatty wrote:

> So now if I stop somewhere for 20 or so minutes and go to start the beast
> again it is *very* difficult to start--have to hold the gas on the floor
> and crank like mad. If I stop for approx. 40 or more minutes and go to
> start it there are no starting problems. I think my carb is boiling the gas
> as it has been pretty warm here lately and it seems to coincide with the
> problem. Is there anything I can do to stop this? It's getting annoying.
>
> It's a Motorcraft 2100 (I think) 2V with a manual choke on a 352. Judging
> by the temp. gauge the motor isn't unduly hot. Any suggestions would be
> appreciated.
>
> Drew Beatty

Hey, I have had the same problem with my recently departed Holly and the new
and shinny Edelbrock. Almost the exact same problem. If I restart within
about 2 minutes, no problem. 10-30 crank like "mad". Anylonger than that and
no problem. And Drew is right, it is getting annoying.

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 01:32:14 EST
From: JChrist705
Subject: RE: 16" or 16.5"

> >Since we are on the subject of 16.5 wheels......
> >
> >Does anyone have a set of 16.5 X 9.75 stock wheels you want to sell or
> trade?
> >
> >E-mail private danadeb pacbell.net
> >

hello all,

while on the subject of 16.5" wheels.....i'm looking for a set of 16.5" x
8.25" rims. if anyone could help me out i would appreciate it. i don't need
anything fancy (anything is better than paint steel wheels!!)

thans

jason
jchrist705 aol.com
69' ranger 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 22:47:22 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: timing retard

>> That's why I think a screw mechanism would be better, because one rotation
>> of the screw would always equal "x" degrees of distributor rotation.
>>

>Good point and good idea!!!!
>
>Dana


To follow thru with the thought... If I could put together something that
I could change a known amount, say up to +/- 10 degrees from my "standard"
setting and adjustable on the fly, I could keep a log book and when I find
myself on a long hill where I can keep it near WOT at a fairly constant RPM
for a while, I could adjust the timing and see where "best" seems to be.
After a while, hopefully I'd have enough data points in my little book to
know what a more or less optimum spark curve looks like. Once I get a
distributor machine built, I'll fiddle with the weights and springs in the
dizzy until I've duplicated that curve as closely as possible.
I know there's got to be some power and economy to be had by getting
the ign timing more nearly correct over as wide of a RPM/load range as
possible... I'd like to try and find it.
I know mine is far from ideal now...


Steve

I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 22:47:25 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

>> Ok use locktite on a stud where the dist hold down bolt goes, then use a
nylock
>> lock nut on top of the stud but don't tighten it all the way. next install a
>> push-pull cable like a choke and voila adjustable timing.
>> [snip]


>Cool, while you're at it, put in a steering column from a 'T, it'll have
>all
>the right levers on it to control the timing :-)
>
>Pat Brown
>Sebastopol, California


When I was a kid my uncle had a 'T and I remember that little lever.
Specifically, I remember what happens if You forget to retard it all
the way before You wind the motor over with that hand crank!
'Bout tore my dang thumb off...


Steve

I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 22:47:30 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Whiter whites, brighter brights!

No, I'm not selling laundry soap.
This evening I finished hooking up the relays for my headlights...
The headlight wiring on my F100 really sucked. The stock wiring is
only 18 gauge and is *very* long as power has to go from the battery
into the cab, up to the headlight switch, down to the floor to the
dimmer switch, and then back out to the headlights. These wires have
to handle the current of both lights, about 10 amps and 18 gauge is pretty
tiny. On my truck, with the high beams on and 14.2 volts at the battery
there was only 11.1 volts at the headlight! Over 3 volts lost in that
crummy wiring and switches... And the switches are fairly new.

I mounted 2 relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) on the fender
next to the battery and connected the headlights directly to these relays
with nice short lengths of #14 wire, 1 for each bulb filament.
The other side of the relays are connected to a fuse block on the fender
and directly to the battery. There's one fuse for high beam and one for
low beam, so if one burns out You're not totally blind.
The origional headlight wires I disconnected from the lights and
taped off on the drivers side, and on the pass side I disconnected them
and then lengthened them to reach the fender where I connected them to the
coils of the relays. So now, that long #18 wire and the headlight and dimmer
switch only handle about 1/10 Amp to actuate the relays, and each bulb has
it's own nice short #14 wire instead of 2 bulbs on a long skinny #18.
The voltage drop lost in the wiring is now less than 0.2V instead of 3.1V
and the lights are MUCH brighter!
It's amazing what a difference a couple volts makes in brightness.
I always wondered why the halogens on the truck never seemed as bright
as I thought they should be... They're *much* better now.
With some nice 100 watt high beam halogens it would make an even bigger
difference... (-:


Steve

I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 22:47:27 -0800
From: sdelanty
Subject: Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio)

I wrote:
>> My T-18 is dead dog slow to shift, and the ratios pretty well suck.
>> Granny 1'st is usless, so You've got a 3 speed with ratios something like
>> 3.2:1 2nd, 1.7:1 3rd, and 1:1 4th...
>> That's a big wide spread btween gears and You gotta make a bundle 'o torque
>> over a wide range to make it work.

Pat replied:
>So, can the granny in my T-18 be changed into something more useful?
>Seems like it's been around long enough for someone to have done
>something.

I don't know of anything to help first gear, but that doesn't mean
there's not something out there. You'd really have to change 2nd and
3rd to tighten up the spread, and end up with a 1st gear that's about
where 2nd is now. Then the ratios would be decent but it would still
shift slug slow. If You find any different gearing for the T-18 let
me know. I'd love to change mine!

>Of course, it's always fun to cruise down the street at 5
>mph turning 5000 rpm.

I've also grown fond of it for that 2 mph rush hour traffic. You can
just let it idle along in granny and not have to keep using the clutch
to keep moving so slow...

>Ahh, the Baylands. I used to hang out there on friday nights at the
>dirt track - buggies and sports sedans. Great fun. But wait Steve -
>There's Sears point on Wednesday nights. I know a few guys who go
>there regularly to race there (cover your eyes Stu!) GM stuff
>in the bracket races.

Yeah, I'd like to goto Sears point a few times this year and run
the truck to get some numbers for tuning purposes. I wish I had a
better tranny, it would be more fun. My old T-18 gets real reluctant
if You try to do a fast high RPM 2-3 shift and sometimes it won't
go in, accompanied by much wailing and nashing of teeth...
I'm not sure I could shift it consistantly enough to be much good
in brackets, but it would sure be fun to go play anyway!


Steve

I love deadlines. I especially like the
whooshing sound they make as they go flying by.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 02:02:51 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Top Loader 4-speed

Ken, you have an extra pair of asbestos underwear to loan?
No offense intended to anyone. The top-loader is a very good transmission,
but it isn't indestructable. A buddy of mine who races a 427 66 Fairlane has
a bucket of twisted off imput shafts. He runs a Jerico now, which is a
beefed up top-loader and what they run in NASCAR and Super Stock. Top loader
supplies are starting to dry up, as are all of the vintage trannys. In my
opinion the remaining ones need to go in restored muscle cars. I know,
opinions are like... (o)
A truck is a heavy vehicle and demands it's own set of requirements, the
main one is the ability absorb amplified shock and inconsistant traction
loads. Wheel-hop is hell on trannys, and is tough to avoid on trucks. Side
stepping the clutch on a 4200 lb vehicle is hard on stuff, and a 30 year old
gearbox is being asked to do the same as a 50 year old man running
windsprints with the youngsters. There will be a few who can, but it isn't
the norm. I'd feel pretty bad if killed one myself. Those old boxes have
paid their dues, we need to leave a few for the next generation to hear
whining up the road. I miss my '68'Stang so bad sometimes.
The premier choice for street-strip truck use is the C-6 auto. They are
plentiful, cheaper to repair, and do a whole lot for your traction problems.
If you scatter one (which I've seen a whole lot less of than with sticks)
you aren't destoying a box that makes or breaks a 428 CJ Mustang
restoration. Parts are already high enough for this stuff.
If you have to have a stick then why not go with the Jerico, or maybe a
Richmond 5-speed? Yes they are expensive. Racing costs money, and sometimes
a dual purpose rig will cost more than a strictly race one. The auto offers
more bang for the buck and can pull a trailer if you don't go stupid with
the converter.
Of course you could leave the truck a truck and race a 5.0 Mustang.......


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 02:06:21 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250

My truck has 4.56 gears and 31.50 in tires(supposed to be 33's) with a
NP435,and Dana 24 T-case. It turns close to 3000 rpms at 60 mph and blows
out oil through the breather(filler) cap. Does anyone know of an overdrive
say 20% that would cut it on an F250, and not require much more than a
shorter driveline and switch? I hate to change gears, because everything is
original except the engine. I don't drive on the highway alot, but the
capability would be worth the effort if I don't have to butcher anything.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 05:43:52 -0500
From: "Harvey, Blaine"
Subject: AOD shifter

- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:20:43 -0800
From: Fred F Robinson
Subject: Re: AOD Trans.

At 04:41 PM 3/25/98 -0000, you wrote:
> I Just bought an AOD trans. and was looking for an aftermarket
>shifter, but, all the shifters I found you have to purchase a special kit
....


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