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Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:37:05 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #181
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 25 1998 Volume 02 : Number 181



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: HOT STARTS [DGholsM ]
Re: Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild [DGholsM
Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng? [gpark cymer.com]
FE Water pump [Jim Pointer ]
16" OR 16.5" [BDIJXS ]
Axle Numbers [BDIJXS ]
Re: 16" OR 16.5" [james oxley ]
Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250 [ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGE]
Inquiry [Roy Bebee ]
AOD Trans. ["Kevin" ]
Re: AOD Trans. [Keith Srb ]
Re: 460 build up [Mike Schwall ]
RE: 78 F150 ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Timing Retard ["Deacon" ]
RE: 78 F150 ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Battery dead [am14 chrysler.com]
390 [am14 chrysler.com]
Ignition ["art Lutz" ]
atamozing fuel [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: power steering ["Dean A. Noland" ]
Re: power steering [Ractrk002 ]
Re: power steering [Ractrk002 ]
C-6 Shift Linkage WANTED! [Randy Collins ]
Re: screen intake gaskets [SuperMagot ]
Re: screen intake gaskets [Ken Payne ]
Re: timing retard [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 16 or 16.5's? [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 78 F150 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: AOD Trans. [Fred F Robinson ]
Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ??? [Steve & Rockette
Unibody Roll Cages ( was : Autolite 4100) [Steve & Rockette
Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard [pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)]
Re: power steering [Don Grossman ]
Re: Timing Retard [Pat Brown ]
Re: T-18's (Was Rear Axle Ratio) [Pat Brown ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 13:49:12 EST
From: DGholsM
Subject: Re: HOT STARTS

I just went through the same problem after a new battery and starter relay it
turned out to be the starter with no bushings on the inside.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:03:46 EST
From: DGholsM
Subject: Re: Questions about finding a good 390 engine to rebuild

Yes. Check the oil dip stick and radiator if the the dip stick has water in
the oil you may have a cracked block or head or blown head gaskets. If there
is oil in the radiator the intake gaskets are gone I kn ow you said you were
going to rebuild but these are a coupke of things to look for if it is still
running. I found a bargain for $400 that was still running so far all I've
done is replace the water pump and change the oil.


dmg
71 F-350 W/360 or 390
77 Lincoln W/460

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 11:08:31 -0800
From: gpark cymer.com
Subject: Ignition Timing change req'd w/valve timing chng?

Hey guys,
My 351 got a new timing chain set about 300 miles ago. The chain kit was
one of those that allows changes from stock timing.
It had a -4, a 0, and a +4. The stock timing on this 77 351M was (I
believe) -4 degrees. I installed this kit at '0' degrees, looking for a
little more low end out of this motor. It's really didn't seem to help.
What I was wondering is if I might be able to tweek my ignition timing a
little bit now. I have no ping probs, and it' s set right now at 12BTDC.
If I can do this, what should I look for as far as the optimum setting?
Which direction should I go?
Thanks in advance-
Gregg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 13:27:27 -0600
From: Jim Pointer
Subject: FE Water pump

Thanks to everyone who responded. After looking at
the thing, the tip that I should connect the little hose
between the pump and block or manifold (the mental
picture is fuzzy right now) will probably save me a bunch
of cussing. I'll probably just buy one from the
local parts store, because I'll most likely be rebuilding
the engine or building another one later this year anyway.
For that reason, I doubt I'll replace the timing chain at
this point, either. Mostly I just want to get it back on
the road cheaply and quickly so I can use it when we move.

Again, thanks for the advice. This list is amazing when it
comes to knowledge of the topic at hand. Saves us "part-time"
mechanics a lot of BS.

Jim Pointer
jimp geoaccess.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:40:22 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: 16" OR 16.5"

Thanks for the input, I guess I'm kind of leaning to the 16" since I've heard
now from about 5 people that the 16.5's are slowly being phased out....this
might be reflected in their higher price. But there was a good question, I
have the dual-piston brake calipers on the front, with the 16" clear them????
Anyone???

Thanks Again!

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:40:27 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: Axle Numbers

Hi Stu,

I'm not sure about the rear diff number, but the front number is referred to
as a "bill of materials" number. If you ever buy parts for it anywhere other
than Ford, you will need this number so they can figure out what you have....

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:57:26 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: 16" OR 16.5"

BDIJXS wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input, I guess I'm kind of leaning to the 16" since I've heard
> now from about 5 people that the 16.5's are slowly being phased out....this
> might be reflected in their higher price. But there was a good question, I
> have the dual-piston brake calipers on the front, with the 16" clear them????

I don't see why not. I am going dana 60 front. Just for kicks, I
dragged one of my 15 X 8 , 8 lug wheels to the shop were they had dana 60
fronts. That 15' wheel almost makes it on. I asked here and was told that
no how, no way, 15"ers will fit. I'll find out for sure when I get it
home. I'm pretty sure a fellow bronc owner has the 16"ers with F-250
hubs/brakes on his dana 44. Try him at FORDTRKNUT aol.com.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:50:46 -0600
From: ballingr ldd.net (WILLIAM L BALLINGER)
Subject: Overdrive for NP435-Dana 24 65 F250

My truck has 4.56 gears and 31.50 in tires(supposed to be 33's) with a
NP435,and Dana 24 T-case. It turns close to 3000 rpms at 60 mph and blows
out oil through the breather(filler) cap. Does anyone know of an overdrive
say 20% that would cut it on an F250, and not require much more than a
shorter driveline and switch? I hate to change gears, because everything is
original except the engine. I don't drive on the highway alot, but the
capability would be worth the effort if I don't have to butcher anything.


Ballinger
Preferred Company
ballingr ldd.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 16:22:26 -0500
From: Roy Bebee
Subject: Inquiry

Your service was recommended by Mr.Fomoco when I asked a question
concerning my Ford trucks:
1) 1928 Open cab pickup. Owned since 1962. Restored 1988
about 12,000 miles since.
2) 1962 F-11 (?) Econoline pickup. Owned since 1996, Restored 1986.
About 300 miles since.
3) 1984 F150 . Owned one year.Good condition standard model.
Driven daily. We own only trucks as you can see.

I would like more info on the '62 Econoline pickup - such as part
numbers, available parts, and interchange parts. Thanks - looking
forward to joining in on conversations.Roybb.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 16:41:56 -0000
From: "Kevin"
Subject: AOD Trans.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD580C.ECBE7AC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I Just bought an AOD trans. and was looking for an aftermarket shifter, =
but,
all the shifters I found you have to purchase a special kit to use the =
shifter.
=20
What is so different about the AOD to require this kit?

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD580C.ECBE7AC0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>




I Just bought an AOD trans. and was =
looking for=20
an aftermarket shifter, but,
all the shifters I found you have to =
purchase a=20
special kit to use the shifter.
 
What is so different about the AOD =
to require=20
this kit?

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD580C.ECBE7AC0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 15:59:27 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: AOD Trans.

At 04:41 PM 3/25/98 -0000, you wrote:

>>>>

I Just bought an AOD trans. and was looking for an
aftermarket shifter, but,

all the shifters I found you have to purchase a special kit to use the
shifter.



What is so different about the AOD to require this kit?





I think it might have to do with the number of "slots or tangs"
available. On a standard automatic transmission you have a slot for 1st,
2nd and drive. On an overdrive transmission you need slots for 1st, 2nd,
drive and over drive.


I hope this makes sense and helps. I am not always the best at
describing things, but I try.


Later





Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.netvalue.net/herbie

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air Cleaner,

Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box Style Side.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 18:21:40 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: 460 build up

>Tyler writes: >> article on 460 build-ups. I am willing to scan this
>article for those of you interested.
>
>I'd be intrested also if I'm not too late.
>
>Azie

Ditto

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 16:47:44 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: 78 F150

Brett,
Is this truck a 4x4? I don't want to advise against a truck site unseen
but $1500 seems high for a truck that needs a new motor right off the
bat and has cancer. One or the other maybe but not both. The problem
with rust is that is like an iceberg -- you only see the tip of the
damage.

Make sure you check under the truck for any other rust through spots.
If the cab corners are gone then what about the rest of the cab floor?
Check the hood hinge mounts, they tend to rust from the inside out. I
guess the front tire throws a lot of moisture up into that area. Check
the door sill area and around any glass.

Having said that, it sounds like you have a budget to work with. Make a
list of all that needs to be done and then go shopping for prices.
Check with several body shops and take an average of the estimates.
Then see if the total cost of purchase and repair is within your budget.
If it is and you have a good feeling about the rest of the truck then go
for it. If not then there may be one in better shape around the corner.

Good luck,
Tom H.




Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 12:32:38 -0600
From: Brett Yerks
Subject: 78 F150

Hi, I'm looking at buying a 73-79 F150 or F250. I looked at a 78 F150 a
couple days ago and was wondering what you think about it. It has a 400
with a knock, will need to be rebuilt or have a new one put in. Bed is
pretty rusty, needs cab corners, both doors, and hinges in passenger
door. Its got what looks like a 4" lift with brand new 35's on 15x10
rims. Everything seems pretty solid on the drivetrain. It is a little
bouncy and jumpy on the road if you hit any bumps. I'm not sure if that
is normal with 35's and coil springs or not. None of the gauges work,
including the gas gauge, so I'm not sure if it has some sort of
electrical problem or what. He's asking $1500 for it. I'm really looking
at putting $4000 max into a truck that would be a daily driver in the
winter and something I could have some fun with offroad. If you have any
suggestions on what I should look into I would really appreciate it.
Thanks for any opinions.

Brett

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 16:50:05 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

And a 1, and a 2, and a 1, 2, 3, 7.

A timing retard. Get it? :)

What did the wheel say to the brake?

Don't stop me now, I'm on a roll! :)


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
========================================
Truckin' , I'm a goin' home,
Whoa whoa baby, back where I belong,
Back home, sit down and patch my bones
And git back truckin' on.
========================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
Check out my new hobby
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/rccars.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 16:59:56 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: 78 F150

Brett,

Thought of something else after I hit send. You should be able to use
all of the items you mentioned to bargain the price down. Electrical
problems, rust, and motor work don't come cheap. Perhaps the seller
started high knowing that if the truck is in rough shape the buyer will
try to talk him down.

On the guages. It MIGHT be a simple fix. There is a voltage regulator
mounted on the back of the instrument panel that will sometimes fail.
It works by interrupting the current supplied to the guages. If it has
failed then there may be no current to the guages. The simplest check
would be to get an electrical test light (has an alagator clip, a lamp
and is usually mounted in a screwdriver looking thing). Turn on the
ignition switch -- ON or ACC -- doesn't matter 'cause the guages get
current in either position. Pull the wire off of the water temperature
sending unit and connect the test lamp to the wire. Ground the lamp to
the engine block or to the sending unit and the lamp should flash on and
off. If not then the regulator is probably bad.

Again good luck with your decision and remember, you may have to be
patient and look at several trucks before you find the one that's right
for you. I spent the better part of a year before I found a good one in
my area. One of the ones I passed on had an obvious cracked head or
blown head gasket and the dealer said it was in fine shape -- just
ignore that water blowing out of the radiator overflow.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:05:04 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Battery dead

Scott writes:>> sometimes when I start it, the starter doesn't stop
kicking over.

Sure sign of weak battery. Check out your Voltage regulator and
Alternator IF you are your battery is capable of holding a charge.
Also you can put an amp meter between the positive terminal and the
positive cable and see if you have a current draw when you make sure
all the electricals are off.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:36:23 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 390

Keith writes: >>Are they any external clues I could look for to help
determine the condition of the engine ??

Take a 15/16" deepwell 1/2" drive socket and a long pull handle with
you. Slip it over the nut in the front holding the vibration damper on
the crankshaft snout and turn the engine over a few times in both
directions. Listen and "Feel" as you turn it. You can usually tell if
any major damage is inside - not always, but most of the time. This
may not be visual, but it is from the outside. If you can't turn it,
take the sparkplugs out and try again. Water has no give for
compression. If water comes out a sparkplug hole, you have to be the
judge.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 17:34:52 -0800
From: "art Lutz"
Subject: Ignition

I have been looking at the MSD ignitions for my 78 400. I am using the
duraspark right now. Has anybody put one on their 400? Was there a
noticable difference between the two? Also I was wondering how much of a
pain they are to hook up, and if they will help with my pinging.


I have been on this list for along time, and would like to thank everyone
for answering the few questions I have posted, I only wish I had the
knowledge to answer some of the questions others ask. But I am learning.
Thanks Art Lutz

78 F-250 XLT 400
Maybe someday my dads 69 F-250 360 FE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:39:02 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: atamozing fuel

John writes: >>Has anyone seen those intake gaskets that have the
screen in the ports to break up the fuel charge. Is this just a
marketing gimmick or is it possible that this could work. ?

In '59 my cousin and I bought a '59 Impala with 348 and solids and 2
4bbls from the factory. We used our wives old nylons stretched fairly
tight and sandwiched between the carbs gaskets and the the intake.
Don't know if it really helped or not, but we thought we had a secret
from the competition. The car ran rather well until we decided to
blueprint/balance it. Never ran the same after that. Sold it after 2
seasons of frustration. I've owned nothing but Fords and Chryslers
since.

Azie
Ardmore, Al

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:51:40 -0500
From: "Dean A. Noland"
Subject: Re: power steering

Does anyone have any information on converting manual steering to power
steering. I have a 69 f-100 390 and would ove to convert it!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:58:34 EST
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: power steering

If anyone has any info on that manual to power steering conversion for a 69
f100 drop me a line too

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:00:22 EST
From: Ractrk002
Subject: Re: power steering

K I have a 69 F100 2wd with a ford 9in rear end with 3.50 gears axle code
08. Why when I power brake it does the driverside spin insted of the
passenger side like normal?? It doesn't matter what surface its on it still
does it that way and once in a while both will go

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:15:55 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: C-6 Shift Linkage WANTED!

Help!

I just figured out that I need a different shift linkage setup for my
project truck. I am not sure of all the years the linkage came in but I
believe that all 78 to 79 4WD F150's and F250's and Broncos had the proper
linkage setup.

I just uploaded a couple of pics of the linkage set up to a web site. The
can be viewed at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://netnow.micron.net/~rcollins/ford/c-6linkage.jpg
Be patient the pic is pretty large.

I need all of the linkage that mounts to the frame, transmission and the
shift rod.

I appreciate any help you can give me.


Later,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
460 SUPER COBRA JET
Short Block Completed...Heads Sitting on the work bench!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:40:59 EST
From: SuperMagot
Subject: Re: screen intake gaskets

In a message dated 98-03-25 20:40:15 EST, you write:

>Has anyone seen those intake gaskets that have the
screen in the ports to break up the fuel charge. Is this just a
marketing gimmick or is it possible that this could work. ?>

When I went from a factory 4bbl to a Edelbrock Performer, I put in those
screen gaskets. Performance was definitely increased, but whether it was due
to the manifold, screen or both I cant be sure. The theory says they should
work, and doubtful they could hurt. Prices are comparable, so go for it.

- - Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:50:54 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: screen intake gaskets

At 09:40 PM 3/25/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-03-25 20:40:15 EST, you write:
>
>>Has anyone seen those intake gaskets that have the
> screen in the ports to break up the fuel charge. Is this just a
> marketing gimmick or is it possible that this could work. ?>
>
>When I went from a factory 4bbl to a Edelbrock Performer, I put in those
>screen gaskets. Performance was definitely increased, but whether it was due
>to the manifold, screen or both I cant be sure. The theory says they should
>work, and doubtful they could hurt. Prices are comparable, so go for it.
>
>- Mike

Don't want to start a flame war but carbs don't have any problem
atomizing gas completely. The advantage of FI is the metering,
not the level of atomization. IMHO, a screen won't make much
difference. If anything, its a huge air restriction. Get a
piece of panty hose (I'm gonna catch hell for this one) and
blowing through it. Without a doubt, it causes restriction.
I'm of the opinion, that if it really doesn't cost any more,
then why didn't auto makers put them in? Heck, it would be
"free" mpg, hp, etc.

Asbestos underwear now on...

Ken :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:07:30 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: timing retard

sdelanty wrote:
>

>
> That's why I think a screw mechanism would be better, because one rotation
> of the screw would always equal "x" degrees of distributor rotation.
>


Good point and good idea!!!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:13:40 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 16 or 16.5's?

someone said that 79(?) F350 4x4 had them?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:22:06 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 78 F150

Brett Yerks wrote:
>
> Hi, I'm looking at buying a 73-79 F150 or F250. I looked at a 78 F150 a
> couple days ago and was wondering what you think about it. It has a 400
> with a knock, will need to be rebuilt or have a new one put in. Bed is
> pretty rusty, needs cab corners, both doors, and hinges in passenger
> door. Its got what looks like a 4" lift with brand new 35's on 15x10
> rims. Everything seems pretty solid on the drivetrain. It is a little
> bouncy and jumpy on the road if you hit any bumps. I'm not sure if that
> is normal with 35's and coil springs or not. None of the gauges work,
> including the gas gauge, so I'm not sure if it has some sort of
> electrical problem or what. He's asking $1500 for it.


With all of the problems listed I would think $500.00 might be right. In
California a really clean 70's f250 goes for under $2000.00 with no rust,
working everything.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:20:43 -0800
From: Fred F Robinson
Subject: Re: AOD Trans.

At 04:41 PM 3/25/98 -0000, you wrote:
> I Just bought an AOD trans. and was looking for an aftermarket
>shifter, but, all the shifters I found you have to purchase a special kit
>to use the shifter. What is so different about the AOD to require this
kit?

I have been using a standard B&M shifter for years. The shift pattern is
the same as any transmission. Low is 1st to 2nd, 2nd shifts to 2nd and
3rd, drive shifts from 3rd to over drive. Go to a pick and pull type yard
and look for a Ford with a AOD in it. The way to tell is look at the
shifter indactor on the dash, you should see low, drive, Od on the gauge. I
whated a shifter that locks in reverse that's why I went to B&M with cable
linkage. The only kit I had to use was one for the carb to be able to
connect the rod that goes from the carb to the transmission so the
transmission can shift. If you do not have this acturator rod connected
between the carb and trans it will not shift!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:39:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Re: Was rear axle ratios now top loaders ???

At 09:54 AM 25/3/98 -0700, you wrote:

>Which Vehicles could you find such a thing in??
>
>Who makes these things and what model numbers are we talking about
>
>I assume that a toploader has the shift lever and shifting mechanism on top
>of the tranny, correct?
>
>What would it take to bolt one of these to a 390 ????

Top Loaders are the most indestructible of car 4-speeds,
got 1000HP? top loader + 9inch rear end, no problem...
6000rpm hole shot? no problem.... NASCAR has used them
since the beginning of the sixties. You can get one to fit any
Ford bell housing. And you cant break it , Period.

They run $450 to $750 for rebuilt ones, or $1500 to $2500
from FMS for new ones.

How Fast DO You Want To Go???

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:39:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve & Rockette
Subject: Unibody Roll Cages ( was : Autolite 4100)


>BTW, (off topic) anyone know how they put roll cages in unibodies
>used in dirt track racing? The only fords I can find with frames are
>way too big for my taste :-( I suppose I could race a Mon**C*****
>with a ford engine.........Ok, bad Idea :-)
>

Well, You could run a C*ev with a Ford engine, But the techies
would probably whine alot. Ask 'em if they'ed like some cheese
with it!!

OK, Now for the "rigth way to do it".

You weld in some plates to weld the cage to, weld in some
frame connectors. If you're going to use a 80's T-bird, it has the
same platform as the Mustang. Use as many of the available
Handling parts as possible. If you're running a V6, use the Cobra
springs on the right side ( stiffer by a long shot ). It aint rocket
science after all. Call and talk to the guys at Griggs Racing,
they've got lots of neat stuff for handling...

Griggs Racing Products, Inc... 1-800-655-0336.

Ford Truck Content;
I'm 150 miles from my '63, I thing I'm getting Withdrawl
symtoms.........

Steve & Rockette...Lifes a beach
'63 F100 Longbox

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 22:51:50 -0500
From: pickup65 juno.com (Jon E Purut)
Subject: Re: Autolite 4100 / Timing Retard

Two posts for the price of one.

In my experience the best cars to look at for 4100 carbs is the late 50's
to early 60's Galaxy and Fairlanes. I have seen quite a few in my junk
yard excursions. Early 4100's were made with the metal vacuum secondary
leaver as opposed to the plastic one. This metal leaver is suppose to be
better for performance applications. The current price for one should be
about $50.00. NAPA carries rebuild kits for them for around $20.00.

Rebuild Note: When tearing one down for a rebuild make sure you do not
loose the small (1/8 inch) check ball located in the diagonal vacuum
passage underneath the secondary diaphragm housing. Without this check
ball the secondaries will not work properly and this ball is hard to
locate.

I was looking through the Summit Catalog and something caught my eye.
Looks like Holley now makes there own version of the 4100. Two main
castings, one major gasket, annular discharge booster venturis. It is
called the 4010 (square bore) or 4011 (spread Bore). Kind of even looks
like the old "shoe box."

Speaking of manual timing retard. Harley Davidsons had this feature to
aid in kick starting the old beasts. I worked at a Harley Dealership in
high school and saw quite a few of them on pan heads. They had what
amounted to a "throttle" on the left hand grip that was used to change
the timing.

Jon E. Purut
Pickup65 juno.com
JCPurut worldnet.att.net
Visit my site http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~JCPurut

1964 F500 (proof that I have this truck bug bad)
1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100
1977 F150
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:29:19 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: power steering

Ractrk002 wrote:

> K I have a 69 F100 2wd with a ford 9in rear end with 3.50 gears axle code
> 08. Why when I power brake it does the driverside spin insted of the
> passenger side like normal?? It doesn't matter what surface its on it still
> does it that way and once in a while both will go

Your brake pads are shot on the drivers side ;)

It might be time for a brake job and install a micro-lock on the front brakes
so that this problem doesn't happen again. The micro-lock will let me do
burnouts all day and I don't need to kill my left foot.

Ask and you shall recieve

Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 18:50:09 -0800
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: Timing Retard

Dana Wrote:
> sdelanty wrote:
> >
> > I've also thought about a purely mechanical setup with a screw mechanism
> > [snip]

> Ok use locktite on a stud where the dist hold down bolt goes, then use a nylock
> lock nut on top of the stud but don't tighten it all the way. next install a
> push-pull cable like a choke and voila adjustable timing.....


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