Return-Path:
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:18:57 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #140
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 140



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: T-Birds with FE's [George Herpich ]
Re: Cleveland 4V Heads [George Herpich ]
Re: Mid-range horses [Gardner ]
Flywheel/torque converter help [Docmi5 ]
RE: 460 installation and manual swap ["kingw" ]
Re: oil pressure was ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 351C and 429/460 [Sleddog ]
RE: Cleveland [Sleddog ]
Re: Mid-range horses ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Cleveland [Dennis Pearson ]
EFI V-8s [Forest New ]
Re: BELLHOUSINGS ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Oil Pressure [tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Re: 460 installation and manual swap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 351C and 429/460 ["Robert Harris" ]
RE: Oil Pressure [Sleddog ]
Re: Oil Pressure ["Deacon" ]
Re: V*lare Rear End ["Deacon" ]
RE: Oil Pressure [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: BELLHOUSINGS [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: V*lare Rear End [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: VIN # and fan shrouds ["Gillespie, John D."
Re: VIN # and fan shrouds [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: Oil Pressure [Mike Schwall ]
Re: EFI V-8s ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Cleveland ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Cleveland ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 06:20:34 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: T-Birds with FE's

The 390 came out in '61 and was used in cars until '69. All Tbirds had
the 300 hp version with a few exeptions.
George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 06:30:15 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Cleveland 4V Heads

Sleddog wrote
>
> i was mostly reffering to the street, and street/strip area. and yes, the
> oiling system sucks. but it does on a 460 too if you plan on running high
> rpms. i just feel that even with its drawbacks that the cleveland really
> is a great high performance small block. of course now you can get good
> heads for a Windsor, so i guess it just isn't worth building C motors
> anymore.
>
> the clevor is a block now, but as i recall, the name originated from those
> who put C heads on a W block.
>
> i always felt the the 351C was the 460's little brother. a few cubes shy,
> but very strong.
>
> sleddog

I was actually replying to Gary but was too lazy to dig his post out of
the trash.
I agree that it makes a great street engine but unless you already have
one or find one
real cheap it's easier to build a widsor. The only drawback is the rpm
limit
due to the large main journels.

The remark about 351m was to the wrong post alltogether! I hadn't had my
third cup of coffee yet:-).

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:15:35 -0500
From: Gardner
Subject: Re: Mid-range horses

What cam would you recommend for a 1994 Lightning. 351W w/ Gt40 heads and
intake. Rev range is 1,000 to 5,000 rpms and I don't won't to sacrifice low
end torque! I know my truck is not in your age group but you guys here have
more experience with this sort of task. Thanks for any help
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:37:26 EST
From: Docmi5
Subject: Flywheel/torque converter help

I have a 74 f-100 that just started to make a loud banging noise as I slow
down. I had my truck towed home, and I was told that it was either the
flywheel or the torque converter. I removed the tranny"C4" and the torque
converter. The flywheel bolts are nice and tight with no teeth missing. How
can I test both parts to find out which is bad.
Thanks.

74-F-100
82-E-100
86-Ranger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:57:00 -0600
From: "kingw"
Subject: RE: 460 installation and manual swap

Harry,
If the tranny is a Toploader and is in good shape, it is probably
worth $350 (but try to get the shifter with it).
Summit is selling Hurst shifters for about $200 (ouch!), so
try to get the shifter and save some money. Make sure
you pull the top cover and look into the case, and spin
the input shaft and listen for noises in all gears (i.e., spin
the input shaft with the tranny in neutral, 1st gear, etc.).
Good luck.

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:56:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: oil pressure was

> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 01:41:39 -0800
> From: Richard Cherico
> Subject: Re: oil pressure was

> adequately lubricate your engine during warmup. Once the engine
> warms up, however, it's going to need something a little heavier
> than 10-weight to keep it from self-destructing. Once the oil hits
> a certain temperature, it begins to act like 30-weight. A miracle
> of modern chemistry

Keep in mind that the 30 wt in the 10w30 means that it will have the
consistancy of HOT straight 30wt when hot (not cold 30 wt) which
is still pretty thin, and when cold it will have the consistancy of
COLD 10wt which is still pretty thick. The idea is to attempt to
keep the oil consistancy the same from cold to hot and the numbes
actually mean that it will never exibit properties of anything
thicker than 10 wt at any temp or thinner than 30 wt at any temp
within it's design range. The more spread in the numbers, the more
additives are required and the more often the oil should be changed
to maintain it's qualities.

I'm mulling over what I'm going to use in my daughters circle track
racer.................:-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:43:52 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 351C and 429/460

it is. the heads breathed well (the 4V). and the 429 CJ heads breathed
well. both breathed better than needed on a stock engine and have been
considered the wrong heads for a torque engine. the 302 boss heads i
understand are the same thing, i guy i talked to said his wouldn't run
under 4000 rpm enough to even feel like a 8 cyl., but watch out when the
rpms got higher! but i never had the pleasure of having one of these
engines. given the right combo of parts, these engines can pump alot of
air! the 4V C heads can feed over 400 cubes at high rpm quite well. makes
me wonder why ford didn't make the 351C a 400C instead.

sleddog

- ----------
From: am14 chrysler.com[SMTP:am14 chrysler.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 6:08 PM
To: Fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: 351C and 429/460

Sleddog writes: >>i always felt the the 351C was the 460's little
brother. a few cubes shy, but very strong.


The 351C is not one of the engines I've dealt with very much, but I
always thought it was forerunner to FOMOCO's "breathers". ie the Boss
series and the later introduced 429's. Is this not the case????

Azie
Ardmore, aL.






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:00:17 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleveland

i also thought about doing this for truck pulling. but in the end, a 500+
cid engine can also turn 7500-8000 with a 2-bolt block. price difference?
not much. either way, this rpm range n a 460 needs some oiling system
work done, similiar to the 351C. the 2 - bolt block is good for 8000,
maybe 8500 rpm on a good day if you are lucky. you need a 4-bolt block to
turn faster than that. the cast iron crank offset ground to a 4.150 stroke
can turn over 9000 rpms with aluminum rods, in a 4 bolt block. the truck
steel crank should be good for faster than the rods can take, but they are
pricey, like $1,000 brand new. for the money, more cubes is cheaper, more
rpms is more expensive.

it would be outlawed too. i mean, if a chevy can't win - change the rules.
just like nascar.

sleddog
- ----------
From: Robert Harris[SMTP:bob bobthecomputerguy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 4:21 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: RE: Cleveland

The big block 385 has been best described as a Cleveland with a massive
overdose of steroids. BTW the 385 predates the Cleveland by several years -
the Cleveland should rightfully be called a wimped out 385.

Now if you really want to give the small block guys daymares, you could
stick a forged steel 370 truck crank into a 429/460, DESTROKE it slightly,
put the early C8,C9 or D0 VE heads on it and wind up with about the same
351
inches, only with a half inch shorter stroke, an exhaust port that flows
more than the best Windsor Aftermarket or 4V intake port and sewer pipe
intakes. For about the same money as 7000 in a Cleveland, you could
probably get about 8500 - 9000 (more power if you used the CJ heads) out of
the DE-STROKED 385 - them monstrous ports do flow and make power.

Monster Ports, very short stroke (3.09 stock 370 - bout like a 302),
extremely strong bottom end - compared to ANY small block and the
compression to take advantage of it. Would eat Cleveland's, Windsor's and
other un-named 350's as a light snack.

Only problem - run it one weekend - be outlawed by the next.








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:10:52 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Mid-range horses

> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:15:35 -0500
> From: Gardner
> Subject: Re: Mid-range horses

> What cam would you recommend for a 1994 Lightning. 351W w/ Gt40
> heads and intake. Rev range is 1,000 to 5,000 rpms and I don't won't
> to sacrifice low end torque! I know my truck is not in your age
> group but you guys here have more experience with this sort of task.

Tom Cloud put an SVO 303 roller cam in his and was fairly happy with
it as I recall. He's using the Holley projection for fuel system but
often varies his elevation by 6000' so likes the dial up mixture
control. He also paid a shop to port his GT-40 heads and he port
matched them himself.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 06:39:29 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: Cleveland

Thanks for your message at 01:21 PM 3/10/98 -0800, Robert Harris. Your
message was:
>The big block 385 has been best described as a Cleveland with a massive
>overdose of steroids. BTW the 385 predates the Cleveland by several years -
>the Cleveland should rightfully be called a wimped out 385.

WHOA! Cleveland "wimped out"? I should be so wimped out. I'm running my
second Cleveland and have loved them both. I would hardly call either of
them wimpy, at least compared to a 302 (or any GM). I am about to get
into my first 385 (a '70 429), so I'll wait to get into any kind of
comparison between a 385 series and a Cleveland. Ya think the 429 will
make me forget my CLeveland?


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:51:12 -0500
From: Forest New
Subject: EFI V-8s

Hate to say it, but I have to disagree with you on this one, namely 351C 4V
heads.
I have been racing clevelands for 16 years and have not found the problems
you described. Maybe their was high spring load problems on the endurance
end of a cleveland head in nascar, but I don't know of too many problems
with the heads inability to handle high compression or high spring rates.
Im a drag racer so 14 - 16 :1 compression is where I normally run with cams
in the 590 - 680 range and have yet to have a problem with the heads
beside's pushrods bent or broken and cracked spring retainers and springs.
Jomar bars help the valvetrains on these heads immensely, and the only
downfall with the heads are the exhaust which can be modified with exhaust
plates. I also know you can port these heads greatly without breaking thru
to your water passages with a little time and effort that will vastly
improve the exhaust side of the head. If that still isn't enough, order a
set of Ford 6049-C3 heads, these are alot like a cleveland except they have
more aluminum to play with in the porting department, and they have raised
exhaust ports eliminating the need to make the radical turn out of the
cleveland head. The widsor and clevland share the same 9.200 deck height
and the intakes for the high ports also will fit either motor. I have alot
of info on this subject so if anyone in the list needs the data let me know.
Sorry Gary........sore spot :-)

Forest New
1972 Ranger XLT 360 / C-6
1969 Mustang MACH 1 351C BOSS / C-6

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 10:21:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: BELLHOUSINGS

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: BELLHOUSINGS
> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:17:16 -0500

> Ox writes: >>Do 351M/460 and FE engines have the same bellhousing
> bolt pattern ?
>
> YES!!!

NOOOOOOOOO! 351m/400 and 429/460 do have the same BB housing flange
but the FE is very different.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 9:53:55 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

>Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:22:32 -0500
>From: am14 chrysler.com
>Subject: Oil Pressure
>
>Ted writes: >>What do you think? Oil pump? Main Bearings? Cam
>Bearings? Rebuild?
>
>You definately need to get the bottom end open(oil pan off) and do some
>checking. The oil pump pickup tube screen could be stopped up. The
>bearings (Mains or Rods or both) could be worn. They can be replaced
>from the bottom, but it takes some knowledge of how to go about it. If
>it is not using oil, and seems to be pretty peppy, then I would suggest
>you go this route.
>
>Let the list know of your questions/concerns, and we'

I think my last post was written with a non-chalant tone to it. I intend t=
o=20

replace the oil pump and main bearings. It sounds easy, but I know
it isn't.

I know I have to lift the motor to get the pan off. Once the pan is off
and the oil pump removed, I have no clue on how to drop the crank
down far enough to slide the upper main bearings into place. I also
don't know the torque specs for when I button everything up.

When priming the new pump, I submerse it in fresh oil and rotate the
shaft several times. How many and how do I know it fully primed or
is it that important?

I hope to start this on the weekend of the 21st of March. I will only have
the shop for 2 days. Is this doable. I think it is, but again I think I=20
may be
over-simplifiying the job. I have a bad tendency of doing that.

Any suggestions on what the best way of going about this is appreciated
and I am looking forward (crazy sounding to most people) of doing this
myself. I love old Fords and the more I can learn and do on my own the
more I enjoy and appreciate them.

Thanks,

-Ted

P.S. I drove the truck yesterday, pressure stayed at about 35 to 40 lbs=20
hot.
I stopped at the bank and when I started the truck up again the guage never
even offered to rise above 0 lbs. Needless to say the truck is sidelined=20
till I
can get it fixed. I may have a bad guage. I checked the line for leaks an=
d=20

pinches but everything looks fine. I'll try a new guage but......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 10:31:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 460 installation and manual swap

> From: "Harry Jennings"
> Subject: 460 installation and manual swap
> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 23:46:56 CST

> Also, I found one 4-speed for $350. Is that a good price?

Average used price for a NP-435. Tom's bronco parts has them in good
condition for $325 plus shipping ($75) and other's I've asked were in
the same ball park.



78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 07:44:21 -0800
From: "Robert Harris"
Subject: RE: 351C and 429/460

The patron of the 385 (370/429/460) was the Thunder Jet 429 introduced in
the 68 Thunderbird.

The 351 Cleveland was first produced for the 1971 model year and
discontinued by the 1974 model year.

The FE was first produced in the 1958 model year thu the 1971 model year -
passenger cars, pickups 1965 thru 1976, and heavy FT (Ford Truck) version
from 1964 to 1978. The 390 was first produced (best I can tell) in 1961.

Most unusual FE I have seen was on a grain truck where one head was replaced
with a compressor head - V8 4 cylinders making power, 4 pumping air to blow
the grain out.

- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 18:08:02 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 351C and 429/460

Sleddog writes: >>i always felt the the 351C was the 460's little
brother. a few cubes shy, but very strong.


The 351C is not one of the engines I've dealt with very much, but I
always thought it was forerunner to FOMOCO's "breathers". ie the Boss
series and the later introduced 429's. Is this not the case????

Azie
Ardmore, aL.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:04:53 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

you'll know it's primed when it shoots oil at you if you use an electric
drill and an old pump shaft to do it.

the best thing to do is to take the old pump shaft and weld a longer piece
to it and use it to prime the motor after it is together by removing the
destributer and turning the pupm from there.

but you don't "have to" do it that way. if the pump is primed before
installation it is ok. some people disassemble the pump and fill it with
vasoline as a way to primer it.

when i primed my engine last time after ass'y, i needed to use a 1/2" drill
because my makita cordless didn't have the power to turn it!

just remember, use a new pump shaft. it is cheap insurance unless you
really can't afford the $20.

sleddog
- ----------
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com[SMTP:tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 4:53 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure


When priming the new pump, I submerse it in fresh oil and rotate the
shaft several times. How many and how do I know it fully primed or
is it that important?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:13:48 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure

>From Ted
>P.S. I drove the truck yesterday, pressure stayed at about 35 to 40
lbs
>hot.
>I stopped at the bank and when I started the truck up again the gauge
never
>even offered to rise above 0 lbs. Needless to say the truck is
sidelined
>till I
>can get it fixed. I may have a bad gauge. I checked the line for
leaks and
>pinches but everything looks fine. I'll try a new gauge but......

I haven't replied to your post because others much more
knowledgeable than I, have replied. I hope I'm not out of line. You may
take this or leave it, but it seems you may be in the same league as me.
I have tools and an ability to use them with some help. I don't want to
take apart more than I need to because I may foul-up something that may
not have needed fixing. Here is my experience I had recently.
I bought a '76 F350 with an FE 360. When I first fired it up it
smoked for a minute and stopped. The only thing was a ticking under the
valve cover. I had hoped it would free up with an oil change and some
Marvel Mystery Oil. No such luck! I removed the valve covers and found a
broken rocker shaft, a broken push rod and a bent push rod. I replaced
the rocker shaft and both push rods, then I used a can of engine flush
and changed the oil and filter. It runs great now and if I ever register
the truck I'll change the oil again. I originally bought it as a donor
truck for my '73 F100 but it's in such good shape I'd hate to butcher
it.
IMHO you have some loose rockers and a clogged oil pressure port but
like I said before, others more knowledgeable than I, have replied
before me. I just like to get out as cheap as I can! Also all one needs
to do is drain the oil during a tune-up then starting the engine when
the new sparkplugs are in, forgetting the fill the oil to find out what
0 oil pressure sounds like. :) Loud! Trust me here! :)
Good luck and if you need torque specs. I'll be happy to post what
my books say!
Later!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 7:23 AM
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure


>Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:22:32 -0500
>From: am14 chrysler.com
>Subject: Oil Pressure
>
>Ted writes: >>What do you think? Oil pump? Main Bearings? Cam
>Bearings? Rebuild?
>
>You definately need to get the bottom end open(oil pan off) and do some
>checking. The oil pump pickup tube screen could be stopped up. The
>bearings (Mains or Rods or both) could be worn. They can be replaced
>from the bottom, but it takes some knowledge of how to go about it. If
>it is not using oil, and seems to be pretty peppy, then I would suggest
>you go this route.
>
>Let the list know of your questions/concerns, and we'

I think my last post was written with a non-chalant tone to it. I
intend to

replace the oil pump and main bearings. It sounds easy, but I know
it isn't.

I know I have to lift the motor to get the pan off. Once the pan is off
and the oil pump removed, I have no clue on how to drop the crank
down far enough to slide the upper main bearings into place. I also
don't know the torque specs for when I button everything up.

When priming the new pump, I submerse it in fresh oil and rotate the
shaft several times. How many and how do I know it fully primed or
is it that important?

I hope to start this on the weekend of the 21st of March. I will only
have
the shop for 2 days. Is this doable. I think it is, but again I think
I
may be
over-simplifiying the job. I have a bad tendency of doing that.

Any suggestions on what the best way of going about this is appreciated
and I am looking forward (crazy sounding to most people) of doing this
myself. I love old Fords and the more I can learn and do on my own the
more I enjoy and appreciate them.

Thanks,

- -Ted




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 08:49:19 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: V*lare Rear End

>marko maryniak wrote:
>>
>> I am thinking of
>> doing an econoline pickup next winter,
>
>
>What year?
>
>Dana

1999! :]


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:07:06 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

>When priming the new pump, I submerse it in fresh oil and rotate the
>shaft several times. How many and how do I know it fully primed or
>is it that important?

Well, it's important to do it a few times anyway. After that, when you get
the motor all back together disconnect the coil leads (and power to the
coil, maybe just unplug the ignition box actually) and crank the motor over
for about 5 secs to get the oil moving.

>
>I hope to start this on the weekend of the 21st of March. I will only have
>the shop for 2 days. Is this doable. I think it is, but again I think I
>may be
>over-simplifiying the job. I have a bad tendency of doing that.

Maybe a little. 2 days assumes nothing goes wrong and you don't sleep very
much.

>
>Any suggestions on what the best way of going about this is appreciated
>and I am looking forward (crazy sounding to most people) of doing this
>myself. I love old Fords and the more I can learn and do on my own the
>more I enjoy and appreciate them.

If I were you, I would plan for an alternate vehicle. Then I would take the
engine up (or out entirely), pop the pan, ditch the old oil pump, and then I
would pop a main off near the back and just check it for wear. You could
pop all the mains off one by one, and you could Plastigage them without
bothering to remove the crank etc.

Before you do any of this, change out the line on your pressure gauge unless
you KNOW it isn't plugged or dirty. Also, provided you actually have any
oil pressure, get a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil (or some other kind of
detergent, even 1/2 cup of automatic transmission fluid will do) and run the
engine in the hopes of unplugging an oil gallery, etc. If nothing else it
will clean the engine out good before you drain the oil and pop the pan.

If your mains pass the plastigage test, and look reasonably decent (no
pitting, nice even wear) then put the thing back together with a new oil
pump and see how that treats you.

Remember, always fix the cheapest thing first. Your engine was only new
once, and that was before it left the factory. It's all downhill from there.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:12:02 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: BELLHOUSINGS

>> YES!!!
>
>NOOOOOOOOO!

Now, now. Let's not get on poor Azie's case too much. Everyone makes
mistakes once in awhile and I noticed that he corrected himself on that
right away.

Besides, he's probably forgot more than I'll ever learn, anyway.



marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:17:00 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: V*lare Rear End

>>marko maryniak wrote:
>>>
>>> I am thinking of
>>> doing an econoline pickup next winter,
>>
>>
>>What year?
>>
>>Dana
>
>1999! :]
>
>
>Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net


I was afraid it would degenerate into that.

I was looking at a 63 but it sold before I got to it. I'll wait and see
what years are available later in 1998, so that I can start a 1998-9 winter
project.

Deacon, I don't know what to day. Just makes me shake my head sometimes,
and laugh. Thanks for that.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:44:05 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: VIN # and fan shrouds

> the dealer who's open till midnight (there is usually one in
each
> city, typically the one that sells the most trucks) then go
there

WAIT A MINUTE!!!??? Are we talking the same language here? Are
we
talking ford dealers which are very much like Harley dealers and

Sears and ..........................I'm incredulous!

They don't even open on Saturday for parts around
here #$$%# !##$ and if you get there after 5:15 forget it even
though they close at 5:30............:-(

Gary are you sure you aren't here in San Diego CA??????

John
66 F100
94 Ranger Splash
82 LTD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:49:11 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: VIN # and fan shrouds

>> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:18:37 -0800
>> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
>> Subject: Re: VIN # and fan shrouds
>
>> the dealer who's open till midnight (there is usually one in each
>> city, typically the one that sells the most trucks) then go there
>
>WAIT A MINUTE!!!??? Are we talking the same language here? Are we
>talking ford dealers which are very much like Harley dealers and
>Sears and ..........................I'm incredulous!
>

now, now Gary. No need to be incredulous.

I admit it, I was wrong. Totem Mercury used to be open till midnight.

Now they're only open till 9pm, five days a week.


Aw.


marko ;-]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 11:55:37 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: RE: Oil Pressure

>When priming the new pump, I submerse it in fresh oil and rotate the
>shaft several times. How many and how do I know it fully primed or
>is it that important?

Just submerge the inlet port on the pump, not the whole thing (makes a
mess). Turn the pump in the direction it turns as if it were in the
engine. When oil comes out the discharge port in the pump, it's primed.
Turn it a few more times to get any air out.


>I hope to start this on the weekend of the 21st of March. I will only have
>the shop for 2 days. Is this doable. I think it is, but again I think I
>may be
>over-simplifiying the job. I have a bad tendency of doing that.

Two days it plenty of time. (usually ;-)

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 13:08:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: EFI V-8s

> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:51:12 -0500
> From: Forest New
> Subject: EFI V-8s

> Hate to say it, but I have to disagree with you on this one, namely
> 351C 4V heads. I have been racing clevelands for 16 years and have
> not found the problems you described.

> let me know. Sorry Gary........sore spot :-)

I think it may have been Mr. Waddel Wilson's book that mentioned
the fixes I spoke of. Since I never raced one I was speaking from
what I remember reading about and I believe it was a NASCAR issue.
Don't remember all the details or even why they had to reinforce
them. Seems like it was a decelleration thing that unloaded
something and caused a gasket leak which burned valves or something
but I really can't remember right now.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 13:14:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Cleveland

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Cleveland
> Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 09:00:17 -0500

> it would be outlawed too. i mean, if a chevy can't win - change the....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.