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Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 13:52:01 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #137
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, March 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 137



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: I-6/302 boss head [George Herpich ]
Re: Cleveland 4V Heads [George Herpich ]
Re: Your truck photo in Auto Krafter Catalog ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: oil pressure was [Brian ]
67 F-100 Power Steering [BDIJXS ]
RE: 20 mpg AND 500 hp??? [Sleddog ]
RE: Cleveland 4V Heads [Sleddog ]
Tiny rivets [Jamey Moss ]
Re: WARNING, Towing The Line, Err Truck [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARV]
Re: Tiny rivets [Stu Varner ]
Re: Tiny rivets ["Ron" ]
Re: Your truck photo in Auto Krafter Catalog [Ken Payne
Re: looking for instructions 1967 4x4 powerstearing xplant ["Gary, 78 BBB]
Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp??? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Tiny rivets ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: looking for SEATS [Stu Varner ]
Re: Tiny rivets ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: oil pressure was [Sleddog ]
Re: Question on swap to auto ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: VIN # and fan shrouds [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Need a 4-speed [james oxley ]
slip yoke seal [FoMoCoNUT2 ]
Oil Pressure [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Need a 4-speed ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: VIN # and fan shrouds ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Disc rears [am14 chrysler.com]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 06:19:16 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: I-6/302 boss head

Bruce Hart wrote:
>
> George,I would certainly like to hear more on this mod,anymore
> info-Bruce
>
That's about all I remember. I think they had some problems in the
rocker arm area but wedge heads may be easier here.
There would be a lot of trial and error in a swap like this and it would
help to have a good friend who happened to be a machinist.
The intake would have to be hand made. JP&Dee used Hilborn injection.

George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 06:33:14 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Cleveland 4V Heads

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: Sleddog
> > Subject: RE: EFI V8s
> > Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 14:39:29 -0500
>
> > PS- i still am surprised that for an engine that has such
> > potential, the 351C has not really been exploited. well, at least
> > the heads get used, but many times on a winsdor, called a clevor.
>
It was exploited to death. It totaly dominated NHRA Pro Stock until the
500 inch rule.
They made so much more power than chevy or chrysler(hemi) that the Fords
had to carry
up to 1# per ci to even out the field. Still, Glidden and Gapp&Roush ran
away with it.
The heads were the only good part. The oiling system was the worst.
Lifters get oil
before mains. They had to sleeve the lifter bores to block oil passages.
The bores were too thin also.
The clevor is a block with the best of windsor and cleveland. The strong
bottom, oiling and higher deck of the W with the smaller main journals
of the C.

George
PS the 351m is a 400 w/351 stroke.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 07:20:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Your truck photo in Auto Krafter Catalog

> Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 21:30:21 -0500
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Your truck photo in Auto Krafter Catalog

> Personally, if I had a 73-79 (and my truck looked better!) I'd send
> a photo in. Many of the trucks on the web site are really good
> looking and they are asking for permission so I think its great for
> all parties involved.

Too bad they don't need a before and after picture :-) I've got a
before............

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:11:01 -0500
From: Brian
Subject: Re: oil pressure was

Sleddog wrote:
>
> the basic rule of thumb is to have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000 rpm.
>
Ok...Here's a question on oil pressure. At a cold idle...I have about
60lbs. (new 460) As it warms up...I drop to about 30lbs at idle.
when I increase rpms to around 2000, it jumps back up to around 55lbs.
Is this a normal range of pressure ??

Brian
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:35:56 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: 67 F-100 Power Steering

Hi Ed,

I also went through this. If your rig is the same as a 1969, then here is a
few things to consider:

1) Like "Shelectrik" said, you'll want an integral steering box from a 77-79
F-150 4x4.
2) You'll need to modify the shaft that connects the steering box to the u-
joint at the bottom of the steering column. If I remember right, it needed to
be shortened and a piece welded on that will bolt to the stock 77-79 ragjoint
(plastic, actually). You may be able to just get this whole piece from a
junkyard. Don't forget to get a new "ragjoint".
3) Your pitman arm will bolt right onto the new steering box.
4) I have a power steering pump out of a 77 and pump mount out of I don't know
what. But you should be able to find a complete pump setup at a junkyard.
Don't forget the pulley on the vibration damper.
5) You'll probably need to re-adjust your wheel locks. I had bigger tires on
mine, and the new box seemed to have more "travel".
6) To mount the box, you'll need to drill two holes, and use a torch to remove
a small "window" in the back of the frame (since its boxed in this area and
not parallel with the outside of the frame) to allow you to use a socket to
tighten the nut for the front bolt. I cut the small window right next to the
big front cross-member.
7) With the new power steering, you don't need the bus-sized steering wheel
anymore. I replaced mine with one of the newer-style 14" wheels. I know the
78-79 Broncos came with these. It bolts right on to the old steering column,
with only some small modifications to the horn wires to make the horn work.
8) It takes a little while, but it will be the BEST modification you can do to
your rig.

If you have a lift kit, or are having problems with the lame knuckle bearings
on the Dana 44, you might consider swapping the entire front end....but first
things first....

Send me a message if you have any questions....

Colorado Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:37:16 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 20 mpg AND 500 hp???

i have seen articles like this in a couple magazines. the last one i saw
was a 500+hp blown windsor that cost $10,000+ to build. and it took more
than most people, or even many shops have to get it right. they didn't
test the mpg yet, but they felt confident in over 20 mpg.

of course, ya got to stay off boost to get those kind of mpg numbers.

and, for that money you can build a screaming 750 hp big block that is
still streetable, and needs no forced induction. i think the choice is
clear when comparing on performance vs price alone.

sleddog

- ----------
From: David W. Anderson[SMTP:danders ptld.uswest.net]
Sent: Monday, March 09, 1998 11:35 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp???

I remember reading a series of articles in Hot Rod about a blown 302 Ch*v
back in the summer of '96. They got 549 horsepower and managed a smidge
over 23 mpg with it in a '65 Chevelle. Even though horsepower and mileage
apparently can be combined in a small block it's pretty clear that they
dumped bucket loads of money into that motor to pull it off, which is the
main reason my toys have big blocks. I'd love a high winding small block
and a 4-spd but my nickel and dime budget dictates cubic inches and a
relatively sane rpm limit.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:46:26 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleveland 4V Heads

i was mostly reffering to the street, and street/strip area. and yes, the
oiling system sucks. but it does on a 460 too if you plan on running high
rpms. i just feel that even with its drawbacks that the cleveland really
is a great high performance small block. of course now you can get good
heads for a Windsor, so i guess it just isn't worth building C motors
anymore.

the clevor is a block now, but as i recall, the name originated from those
who put C heads on a W block.

i always felt the the 351C was the 460's little brother. a few cubes shy,
but very strong.

sleddog

- ----------
From: George Herpich[SMTP:gherpich bellsouth.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 6:33 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Cleveland 4V Heads

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: Sleddog
> > Subject: RE: EFI V8s
> > Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 14:39:29 -0500
>
> > PS- i still am surprised that for an engine that has such
> > potential, the 351C has not really been exploited. well, at least
> > the heads get used, but many times on a winsdor, called a clevor.
>
It was exploited to death. It totaly dominated NHRA Pro Stock until the
500 inch rule.
They made so much more power than chevy or chrysler(hemi) that the Fords
had to carry
up to 1# per ci to even out the field. Still, Glidden and Gapp&Roush ran
away with it.
The heads were the only good part. The oiling system was the worst.
Lifters get oil
before mains. They had to sleeve the lifter bores to block oil passages.
The bores were too thin also.
The clevor is a block with the best of windsor and cleveland. The strong
bottom, oiling and higher deck of the W with the smaller main journals
of the C.

George
PS the 351m is a 400 w/351 stroke.






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:56:07 -0600
From: Jamey Moss
Subject: Tiny rivets

I ordered the replacement vent window gasket set from Dennis Carpenter for my
'67 F100, and it included 5 tiny (3/32 x 9/64) rivets to attach each vent
window rubber to the vent window frame. These rivets won't fit in my rivet
gun or any gun at the hardware store. Does anyone know where to get the
proper sized gun for these little rivets? The hardware store guys were as
clueless as I am, and I guess my next place to look is an auto parts store or
maybe an arts & crafts type place. Any tips before I end up driving all over town?


Thanks,

Jamey Moss ra4001 email.sps.mot.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 07:01:00 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: Re: WARNING, Towing The Line, Err Truck

Severe safety warning due at this point.

There is a REASON why ALL trailers state that 2/3 or more
of the weight MUST be ahead of the trailer axle. STABILITY.

Too little tongue weight and the trailer gets into a side to side wiggle
leading to severe side to side fishtailing. It is not a pleasant
thing to experience. We tested this particular phenomenon with
a special trailer towed behind a bicycle at school in a Vehicle
Stability class. Fun class.

The other extreme is having too much weight on the tongue,
loading the hitch enough to raise the front end and having the
front end so high the tires barely or sometimes touch ground
losing control ability.

Take it easy, and do it correctly. No excuse for not being safe.
Talk to the rental outfits for recommendations, they have reams
of information on what can tow what with what. Know the weights
of the towing vehicle, towed vehicle, rated tongue capacity and
towing capability of the towing vehicle. Go to a couple of outfits
to get a couple of opinions and then use reasonable SAFE
judgement and appropriate precautions.

For long distance and night towing, run your own electrical ground
from trailer to towing vehicle frame. They use the ball hitch as a
ground connection, and is not very reliable.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

A 2 wheel dolly? That should work because the tongue weight isn't too
bad
on a 2 wheel dolly. If you were going for a flatbed, you could always
back
on to the flatbed and put the nose of the truck on or behind the wheels
of
the trailer to reduce the tongue weight (think of it like a see-saw).
On a
2 wheel dolly the load on the tongue is VERY little. I towed my Ford
Esc*rt
down here on such a beast and could pick up and maneuver the tongue with
the
car already on it.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:12:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: Tiny rivets

At 08:56 AM 3/10/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I ordered the replacement vent window gasket set from Dennis Carpenter for my
>'67 F100, and it included 5 tiny (3/32 x 9/64) rivets to attach each vent
>window rubber to the vent window frame. These rivets won't fit in my rivet
>gun or any gun at the hardware store. Does anyone know where to get the
>proper sized gun for these little rivets? The hardware store guys were as
>clueless as I am, and I guess my next place to look is an auto parts store or
>maybe an arts & crafts type place. Any tips before I end up driving all
over town?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
Please let me know if you find out this info (Itend to miss things on the
list) as I will be doing the same install this summer and I'd hate to be
stuck without a clue!
Thanks
STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:02:15 -0500
From: "Ron"
Subject: Re: Tiny rivets

Jamey,
I have in the past had to deal certain types of rivets. Are these rivets
very short in length? If so, they may have to be supported and driven by a
special punch. It is a mean job and sometimes requires two people to do
it. You also have to be very sure that the two items you are putting
together are very tightly together, using C-clamps, Vise grips, sometimes
even a water hose clamp, or whatever. Let me know your findings.

North Carolina Ridge Runner Ron

- ----------
> From: Jamey Moss
> To: Ford Truck List
> Subject: Tiny rivets
> Date: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 9:56 AM
>
> I ordered the replacement vent window gasket set from Dennis Carpenter
for my
> '67 F100, and it included 5 tiny (3/32 x 9/64) rivets to attach each vent
> window rubber to the vent window frame. These rivets won't fit in my
rivet
> gun or any gun at the hardware store. Does anyone know where to get the
> proper sized gun for these little rivets? The hardware store guys were
as
> clueless as I am, and I guess my next place to look is an auto parts
store or
> maybe an arts & crafts type place. Any tips before I end up driving all
over town?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jamey Moss ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:04:54 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Your truck photo in Auto Krafter Catalog

- -snip-

>Ken,

>I'm glad the web page is getting a new sponsor. HOWEVER I wanted to add
>that Auto Krafters has been harvesting email addresses from the mailing
>lists for unsolicited email advertisements (aka SPAM).

I was not aware of this. Has anyone else received email from them?

>I didn't find it too offensive, because it was very targeted and
>wasn't of the bulk variety but still I never asked about any of
>their products or anything and got a message asking to check out
>their web site. I guess what I'm saying is I'd like to see a little
>more care given by the companies affiliating themselves with the list
>before they send email to folks. Like I said though their particular
>message wasn't all that offensive or anything and I don't think
>it will stop me from doing business with them in the future. I just
>would like to see some set of guidelines established for the conduct
>of companies before they get do something that they may not know is
>considered offensive marketing tactics.

>Where do you stand on this, Ken?

Chris,

Based on a similar incident this past fall I'm willing
to bet that Auto Krafters is simply unaware that they've done
anything wrong. We had a company do this in November and
after notifying them they ended up becoming an advertiser on
the page and did not solicite members directly. The person
involved is still a list member and its my belief that his
intentions were ethical - I'll recommend his company any
day.

The same holds true, in my opinion, for Auto Krafters. They're
been around a while and based on my experience and that of
friends I believe they are an honest and ethical business.
Companies that cator to old and antique autos/trucks simply
don't stay in business long without ethics because there is
a high level of "word of mouth" advertising.

Am I defending Auto Krafters? No. I'm trying to be impartial.
I guess, in some ways, this is my fault. The web FAQ and Charter
aren't very clear on some issues. I'll update them this weekend.

Our policy from our Charter, with some detailed explanations:

"Advertising In the Lists

Only private-party advertisements are allowed. No commercial
ads allowed."

No posts of the type: Now on sale at XZY company....

"Vendors are welcome and encouraged to participate
in discussion so long as they do not use this discussion as a
means of advertisement. Vendors may recommend parts/procedures
only if it is in response to a query from a list member."

If they sent you an email based on a part that you're looking
for and they carry, then it is acceptable because does add
value to the topic discussed. Based on the charter they
can openly state, on the list, that they carry the product(s)
you're looking for. Maybe they felt they were doing the
appropriate thing by mailing you privately? Its hard to say
as I don't have email they sent you.

"Basically, use common sense. We offer web page advertising
which is seperate from the lists."

I guess the key question is:
Are they harvesting email addresses and sending indiscriminate
spam or are they responding to a question and sending the
response privately?

Perhaps this issue needs to be discussed and we need to
formulate the "group opinion". I will notify Auto Krafters
of your concerns and ask them to reframe from sending
email to list members until we have a concrete policy.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:09:56 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: looking for instructions 1967 4x4 powerstearing xplant

> From: Shelektric
> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 01:38:18 EST
> Subject: Re: looking for instructions 1967 4x4 powerstearing xplant

> you need to find a steering box from a 77-79 truck and take a good
> look at the locationof the box this is in a different spot you will
> have to drill a couple of holes to mount the new box in place
> e-mail me if you need anything i just went through this process

If you drill new holes for this, make sure you cut some pipe as
spacers to support the frame so it can be fully tightened. This step
is mandatory for a safe installation to give the box a firm mount and
prevent the bolts coming out or the frame collapsing. The frame is
not strong enough to support the torque on the bolts without the
spacers to reinforce it.

A heavy flat plate could be used as well on the opposit side from the
box but it has to be large enough to cover the whole width of the
frame and heavy enough to take the torque of the mounting bolts
without bending.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:15:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp???

> From: "David W. Anderson"
> Subject: Re: 20 mpg AND 500 hp???
> Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 20:35:52 -0800

> a smidge over 23 mpg with it in a '65 Chevelle. Even though
> horsepower and mileage apparently can be combined in a small block
> it's pretty clear that they dumped bucket loads of money into that
> motor to pull it off, which is the main reason my toys have big

This is primarily my point. It may be possible but not on our
average budget. My daughter wants to campaign a "Bomber" class car
at the local dirt track. We'll be running a stock, junk motor but
the late model guys spend $30k on each motor which just make 750 HP
in 350 - 401 cubes depending on class. Some I've talked to say they
get a whole season out of one engine but these babies only get about
2 mpg on the track. It would be very difficult to make such an
engine run cleanly at 2k rpm on the street and if you could I doubt
it would get 20 mpg. Of course these are naturally aspirated engines
but since blowers don't do much before 2k rpm they would onlly be a
hiderance unless clutched which I suspect these article subject
engine were. If I built one it would probably be clutched as well as
are almost all OEM supercharged applications and for that very
reason.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:20:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Tiny rivets

> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:56:07 -0600
> From: Jamey Moss
> Subject: Tiny rivets

> little rivets? The hardware store guys were as clueless as I am,
> and I guess my next place to look is an auto parts store or maybe an
> arts & crafts type place. Any tips before I end up driving all over
> town?

Have you looked it the Eastwood catalog? They usually have that kind
of stuff. I don't have mine in front of me or I'll look it up for
you, sorry :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:20:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: looking for SEATS

>At 07:56 AM 3/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I can put you in touch with a guy in West Tennessee who should have
>>oooodles of them. Hey buys new take outs from Choo Choo Customs and then
>>sells them along with rims, rear bumbpers etc. I'll get his number if you
>>are ineterested. There may be a "logistics" problem depending on where you
>>are located. I bought my 96 model aluminum FORD rims from him right when
>>the new 97 models came out. I was very Lucky to get them!
>
>
>Could you send me the info as well? I've been wondering how I might find a
>newer seat, and this sounds like the ticket!
>
>
>Thx...

I went to visit Mr. Mitchell yesterday at Mitchell's Body Shop
226 Arendall
Henderson, TN 38340
901-989-2837

He has only three 1996 model solid bench seats (manual seats with power
lumbar hook ups) that are tan cloth material for sale.
They are "as new" A-1 Condition. Freshly taken from a NEW vehicle from a
conversion shop. $300.00 plus you pay shipping. Henderson is about 1
1/2 to 2 hours due east of Memphis, TN in case you are close by!
I'll bet he had 30-40 brand G/C and D seats as well as 97 model Effie take
outs too!
I did not check on these or anything. This shop is directly across the
street from where I teach school so it is no problem to check on things for
you all. He also does new take off rims, rear bumpers etc. Anything a
Custom shop would remove.
STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 12:36:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Tiny rivets

> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 08:56:07 -0600
> From: Jamey Moss
> Subject: Tiny rivets

> little rivets? The hardware store guys were as clueless as I am,
> and I guess my next place to look is an auto parts store or maybe an
> arts & crafts type place. Any tips before I end up driving all over
> town?

Have you looked it the Eastwood catalog? They usually have that kind
of stuff. I don't have mine in front of me or I'll look it up for
you, sorry :-(

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 13:46:22 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: oil pressure was

i think so.

mine at cold gives about 75, then drops to the 45-50 range if i remember
right. as the rpms go up it jumps up to 55+ and then about 60-65 at around
5000 where it seems to stay then.

the pressure was about 10 lbs higher when i first built the engine 2 yrs
ago, where cold idle was over 75 psi. i have a melling high volume pump
and run 20w-50 oil in it.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Brian[SMTP:milbrand visi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 1998 8:11 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: oil pressure was

Sleddog wrote:
>
> the basic rule of thumb is to have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000
rpm.
>
Ok...Here's a question on oil pressure. At a cold idle...I have about
60lbs. (new 460) As it warms up...I drop to about 30lbs at idle.
when I increase rpms to around 2000, it jumps back up to around 55lbs.
Is this a normal range of pressure ??

Brian
>






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 13:50:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Question on swap to auto

> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 18:18:15 -0500
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: Question on swap to auto

> If I wanted to swap my 4x4 to auto what can I use???I know I need a
> c-6 with a FE bellhousing would a c6 and transfer case from a 78/79
> bronco f150 work????I know they didnt offer fe's but i can switch
> the bell housing...Or is there something i can bolt to my tcase now
> and just remove the 4 speed???

You need the FE C-6 with short tail shaft for the 4x4 application.
None of the NP-435 parts will interchange except possibly the cast
iron xfer case adapter which may (not sure) be the same one used on
the C-6. The C-6 bell housing is integral with the tranny housing so
you must find a FE application tranny. The FMX will also work with
the FE engines but is not as desireable as the C-6. It may be easier
to find in the junk yards though, not sure.

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:18:37 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: VIN # and fan shrouds

>I would advise everyone to first try your local Ford dealer. You'd be
>surprised
>to find out how many parts are still available. Try to find a parts man
>with like interests and don't be a pest. If possible make a list and
>leave it with him to look
>up when he's not too busy. These old trucks are'nt on the computer, he
>has to drag
>out the old micro film. Unless they're a large dealer they probably
>going to have to
>order it but that is usually only a day to a week wait with no s&h
>charge.
>I know this is old news to you old timers but may help some new guys.
>
>George
>

George is absolutely right, I've found the thing to do is to find the dealer
who's open till midnight (there is usually one in each city, typically the
one that sells the most trucks) then go there and use the microfiche
yourself. The guy will find you the parts, and they'll often be cheap too.
You want to make sure you find the parts guy who's into older trucks, not
probes or escorts. Use your creativity too cause if you can't find it listed
for a 60's truck chances are they just changed the part number in the 70's,
not the actual part.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:43:15 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Need a 4-speed

Do 351M/460 and FE engines have the same bellhousing bolt pattern ?

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:22:43 EST
From: FoMoCoNUT2
Subject: slip yoke seal

Hi gang, I am running into a little dilema here. I need to get my 75 F100
back on the road, ( major service time for the F350 ). I have just finished,
well almost, going thru the drive shaft assembly. The only thing I lack to
put it back in is the seal for the slip yoke. The original was made of cork
and die-cut to fit around the spline shaft sealing both moisture out and
grease in the assembly. All has been check and or replaced in the drive shaft
assembly but I can not get one of these seals try as I may around here at Camp
Lejuene NC. It becomes very frustrating to say the least, there isn't even a
drive shaft specialist in this town. So, the question is.... has anybody out
there found a good supplier? or has anybody replicated one of these? Any help
would be greatly appreciated.

Semper Fords....

John Miller

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:22:32 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Oil Pressure

Ted writes: >>What do you think? Oil pump? Main Bearings? Cam
Bearings? Rebuild?

You definately need to get the bottom end open(oil pan off) and do some
checking. The oil pump pickup tube screen could be stopped up. The
bearings (Mains or Rods or both) could be worn. They can be replaced
from the bottom, but it takes some knowledge of how to go about it. If
it is not using oil, and seems to be pretty peppy, then I would suggest
you go this route.

Let the list know of your questions/concerns, and we'll collectively
walk you through it.

Azie
Ardmore, al.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:26:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Need a 4-speed

> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 14:43:15 -0800
> From: james oxley
> Subject: Re: Need a 4-speed

> Do 351M/460 and FE engines have the same bellhousing bolt pattern ?

No the FE has a round shape to the flange similar, I think, to the
old "Y" blocks but not sure if even they are the same as the FE's or
not?? The BB's have a long, tall shape, similar to the small blocks
but bigger. They're nothing alike (unfortunately)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 15:30:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: VIN # and fan shrouds

> Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 11:18:37 -0800
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: Re: VIN # and fan shrouds

> the dealer who's open till midnight (there is usually one in each
> city, typically the one that sells the most trucks) then go there

WAIT A MINUTE!!!??? Are we talking the same language here? Are we
talking ford dealers which are very much like Harley dealers and
Sears and ..........................I'm incredulous!

They don't even open on Saturday for parts around
here #$$%# ....


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