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Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:23:07 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #123
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, March 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 123



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Rattling Rocker Arms [George Herpich ]
Intro ["Chris Hedemark" ]
re ring a 390 [shoman p3.net]
Jeff Carver 64 Crewcab [fred robinson ]
Re: 302 swap [Stu Varner ]
I-6 300 [Bruce Hart ]
RE: Rattling Rocker Arms [tfmf211 murphyfarms.com]
Re: Engine swaps and tranny locations ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: 460 cooling problem [Sleddog ]
RE: The Flywheel Effect [Sleddog ]
RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120 [Sleddog ]
RE: re ring a 390 [Sleddog ]
Hole [am14 chrysler.com]
thanx [FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)]
Ticking sound [am14 chrysler.com]
flywheels [am14 chrysler.com]
VIN # ["Deacon" ]
Brake lock [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: VIN # [Stu Varner ]
MORE QUESTIONS [FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)]
390 for '61; [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 460 cooling problem ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Brake lock ["Michael Connor" ]
RE: VIN # ["Gillespie, John D." ]
RE: VIN # and fan shrouds [Stu Varner ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120 [Richard Cherico
Re: 390 for '61; [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: Rattling Rocker Arms [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Engine swaps and tranny locations ["Michael Redden"
Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100 ["Michael Redden" ]
Disk brake conversion ('68) [Richard Cherico ]
Re: re ring a 390 [Jean and Phillip Johnson ]
Re: ads, 302 swap, and 3.0 V6 ["Harry Jennings" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 06:52:30 -0500
From: George Herpich
Subject: Re: Rattling Rocker Arms

tfmf211 murphyfarms.com wrote:
>
> Oh gurus of the F100's,
>
> I have been disillusioned about my truck. I bought a '68 Ranger with a 390.
> I finally got the information to decipher my VIN and low and behold I have
> a 360. :~( BUMMER!
>
> Anyways, when I bought it it ran great. No noise and purred like a kitten.
> Well after about 700 miles after it's initial "let's get it right" oil
> change, it
> started "ticking" on the back of the passenger side of the motor while
> idling.
> Sounds like it's coming from under the valve cover. It started with one.
> Now I have
> several. According to the dip stick I have oil. I don't have a dash guage
> and the idiot light isn't working, so I don't know if I'm having an oil
> pressure
> problem at idle. I've adjusted the idle up about 100 RPM so when the truck
> is in neutral or park it doesn't tick. At speed, it runs fine with no noise
> and
> is a strong running motor. Some one suggested the fuel pump could be the
> culprit, but because at times I hear muliple rattles, I believe I have some
> type
> of oiling problem or something. I want to go under the valve cover and see
> what's happening, but before I do I wanted to get some feed back from the
> list.
>
> Help!
>
> -Ted

First, get a gauge and see what pressure you have at idle. I think your
problem is
low press causing one or more lifter to collapse.
I have had this happen with old engines that haven't had regular oil
changes after changing the oil. You can try straight 40w but it would be
best to do as Marko said and replace the oil pump.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 07:21:49 -0500
From: "Chris Hedemark"
Subject: Intro

Howdy folks,

I've got my eyes on a '66 F100 in town with a V8. Only one thing really
concerns me and that is that the bed is pretty rusted. Are reproduction
steel beds available on these trucks on the east coast? If so, how much
roughly? Its a styleside bed.

FWIW, the truck will be used for a mild performance buildup. But primary
use will still be a truck, hauling stuff and everything, and will be driven
something along the lines of 60+ miles a day. It'll also be the parts
getter later on when I get the 52 F1. :-)

Thanks.

Chris Hedemark
Yonder Way
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 08:20:38 -0500
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: re ring a 390

Calling out to the engine people,
If I wanted to re ring my pistons(without boring the block) what size
rings would i get??Would stock be to loose due to wear on the walls??
.10 over the size????How about main and rod bearings what size there??
I'm looking to get some more mileage out of the truck without going
the full blown rebuild$$$ I see re ring kits for $160 in P.A.W.
any help send it my way
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 05:35:58 -0800
From: fred robinson
Subject: Jeff Carver 64 Crewcab

My weekends are fairly open so let me know what you what to do.

If any one is out there whats to make day road trip some weekend from the
Sacramento area to Grass Valley to meet with Jeff and myself please post,
lets get together.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 07:41:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: 302 swap

At 04:04 PM 3/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>> I do have a question concerning registration. Did they check your
>> frame number
>I've never had anyone check my frame numbers,

Where on the Frame is the vin located on a 71 ?????? I was unaware they put
the VIN on the frame. Is this a stoopid question????

STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 08:54:16 -0500
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: I-6 300

I'm going to mdify my 300 six for haulig my horse trailer and I,m
considering all options including turbo's.I was wondering if any members
have heard/experience on the potential torque output for this engine and
in what format that those numbers were achieved.The engine is a low
milage(70,000) 300 in a 1969 F-350 and runs great and gets the job
done.I merely want the baddest 300 in Canada and I need your
input.Thanks-Bruce Hart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 9:05:15 +0000
From: tfmf211 murphyfarms.com
Subject: RE: Rattling Rocker Arms

Thanks Marko,

I'll try the different weighted oil 20W50 and check the
cost of the oil pump. I'll change the oil this weekend
and let you know what happened.

Thanks again for your help!

-Ted

=20

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:30:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Engine swaps and tranny locations

> Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 15:32:55 -0500
> From: Serian
> Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120

> >but the 302 is somewhat shorter than the I6 so it stands to reason
> >that the tranny would have to move forward several inches to put
> >the engine mounts where they belong.
>
> of the engine used. It stands to reason that since for example, a
> C6 would have been bolted up to maybe a 300, or a 302, or a 390, or
> a 460 depending upon what engine option you wanted, and the shift
> linkage all bolts on the same place on the frame regardless of whats
> in it, if its a shorter V8 in the truck, the mounts would be bolted
> on a little further back on the frame than would those for the I6.

Touche! (tooshay or what ever :-)) That even makes sense to me now
that you mention it :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:34:59 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 cooling problem

i now it is really simple, but try just putting in a new thermostat. it is
cheap enough and if they are both good, extra's are always a plus. i have
had many thermostats from the auto parts stores go bad right away. too
many times i got extremely maad because such a cheap part could cause such
big problems.

sleddog

ps- or try running wothout one to see if it still is erratic.

- ----------
From: Mike & Evan[SMTP:yasky netins.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 1998 8:46 PM
To: Ford Truck List
Subject: 460 cooling problem

I really don't think the motor is getting that hot, I'll try to put a
thermometer of some sort in the rad. to check the gauge.

Thanks again for all the help!! If I don't figure it out, you will
hear from me again. You all are my best and most reliable source of
information. Thanks.

Mike Vonhof
yasky netins.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:43:40 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: The Flywheel Effect

just my thoughts:

a truck that is worked liked a "truck" should have a heavy flywheel.
a truck that is driven like a "car" will be more enjoyable with the lighter one.

sleddog

- ----------
From: BDIJXS[SMTP:BDIJXS aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 1998 10:43 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: The Flywheel Effect

Hi Azie,

. A solid steel unit is going
to be heavier than the cast unit obviously, but I wonder why McLeod would make
it so much heavier than stock?

Any ideas????

Thanks!

Colorado Jeff





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:56:29 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120

i never felt comfortable with all that gas sitting behind my *$$!!

sleddog

- ----------
From: danadeb pacbell.net[SMTP:danadeb pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 12:35 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120

Dave Williams wrote:

>
> The cab is the strongest, safest part of a pickup truck,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:03:25 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: re ring a 390

if you have that much wear on the cyl walls, then you would need a full
rebuild. so, stock will work - just be sure to hone that cyl walls. if
ytu end up with a little too much piston clearance, by rings that need to
be gapped and gap them for the new size. the piston can take extra
clearance, but will soon wear out the piston, cyl walls, and rings. over
.012" clearance would be really bad. .012" is for high performance drag
cars with forged pistons. .008 is usually the high limit for street forged
pistons and stock pistons are usually around .006" if my memory is working.

sleddog

- ----------
From: shoman p3.net[SMTP:shoman p3.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 1998 8:20 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: re ring a 390

Calling out to the engine people,
If I wanted to re ring my pistons(without boring the block) what size
rings would i get??Would stock be to loose due to wear on the walls??
.10 over the size????How about main and rod bearings what size there??
I'm looking to get some more mileage out of the truck without going
the full blown rebuild$$$ I see re ring kits for $160 in P.A.W.
any help send it my way
- --
Joe
Aka. Fordguy
1968 F-100 4x4 302 Np435 Bone Stock down to the wheel covers
1970 F-250 4x4 390 Np435 The Beast
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.p3.net/~shoman






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:10:43 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Hole

Lee writes:>>Ok, now I feel really ignorant. What is a "behind the
seat gas tank filler hose?"

When the gas tank is located in cab, there is usually a hole about
where you are speaking of, and the filler pipe goes from the gas tank
thru the wall and can be filled from the outside by removing the gas
cap located just to the rear of the drivers door and about four (4)
feet off the ground. (Factory on lots of older FOMOCO trucks.)


Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:14:57 -0500
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: thanx

thanx guys i guess the best thing to do is take it apart and see what
damage is done to see if it is worth rebuild i want a good dependable
motor i liked the power of the 351w but would like little more torque
for pulling boat ,or trailer
perhaps a RV cam would do what i want .
would putting a 460 in it be more work?
wouild i have to change oil pan if it came from a car, or do any front
end work because of weight of the 460 it drives and handles good now
with the 351w i think it was a 6cyl truck to start with and it had a
automatic at one time shifter still on column . also it is a swb
someone put a drive shaft with a carrrier bearing in it is this
necessary?
can i put a reguler driveshaft in it ? thanx for any help .
RANDY
1970 F100
SWB 2WD
351W with a (THUMP THUMP THUMP ) :~)


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:26:09 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Ticking sound

Ted writes: >> Sounds like it's coming from under the valve cover. It
started with one. Now I have several.

Sounds just like low oil pressure idle. Get a mechanical gage and
the necessary hardware and and check it out. Take the idiot light
sending unit out (located on rear of engine behind intake manifold near
the center) and plumb in the mechanical gage. If you have low oil
pressure, mainbearings and possibly rodbearings are in order, as a new
oil pump possibly. This can be done without pulling the engine.

Sorry about the 360 rather than the 390, but I suspect most 390's in
trucks will turn out to be 360's, unless you know it for sure.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:47:53 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: flywheels

Jeff writes:>>Well, I counted flywheel teeth, does 183 sound familiar?
You had guessed 138...
Actually, this 428 wheel (most likely from a Mustang) had 184 teeth.

Just goes to show how bad my memory really is. Sorry about that!!!
I have one lying in my garage and if my memory will work properly,
I'll weigh it and get back to you in a couple of days. 40# seems
heavy to me.
(gonna count those teeth again also)

Azie


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 08:01:34 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: VIN #

From: Stu
>Where on the Frame is the vin located on a 71 ?????? I was unaware
they put
>the VIN on the frame.

I just read in my Haynes manual "For title and registration purposes
the official VIN is stamped into the right front frame rail and is
usually visible from inside the engine compartment.


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:07:29 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Brake lock

Gary:

I looked at my unit last evening. Nothing at all on it. No insignia -
no name - nothing. The knob in the cab has a very faint " M CO"
read this as M blank CO . there was a letter where the blank is, but I
can't make it out. This knob is not necessarily the one that came with
the brake locking unit either.

Sorry

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 10:14:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: VIN #

At 08:01 AM 3/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>From: Stu
>>Where on the Frame is the vin located on a 71 ?????? I was unaware
>they put
>>the VIN on the frame.
>
> I just read in my Haynes manual "For title and registration purposes
>the official VIN is stamped into the right front frame rail and is
>usually visible from inside the engine compartment.
>
>
Thank you, I gone to check on it tonight when I get home.
I have been all over the frame and don't remeber seeing it!
STU

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:15:29 -0500
From: FORD-TRUCK-70 webtv.net (RANDY D)
Subject: MORE QUESTIONS

anouther question if i do rebuild this 351w what is a good cam for
torque? ( want lots of torque)
what duration and lift ? dont know much about
cams i called got price on rebuild kit .
to get block diped ,linebored ,cambearings,
rebuilt crank , and rebuild kit $340.00 if i don,t need anything else is
this a good price ?
should i get the heads checked also ?
thanx .
RANDY
1970 F100
SWB 2WD
351W ?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:23:35 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 390 for '61;

Dan writes: >>
Since we're all on the subject of engine mount problems, I'm wondering
what will happen when I try to replace a tired 223 I6 with a rebuilt
'61 FE 390 in my 63 F100 Unibody?

Since the 292 was the V8 option in '61, I would think the motor mounts
from the V8 would bolt to the 390 and it would be a drop in. Maybe the
I6 stands are different from the V8, but this is a bolt in trhing.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:37:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 460 cooling problem

> From: "Mike & Evan"
> Subject: 460 cooling problem
> Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 19:46:37 -0600

> cores my rad. has, but will check it out. Heater is hooked up
> and works fine, doesn't seem to affect the temp. though. It

> non-stop. I did drive it again the other night, temp. gauge
> went right up to H within a few miles, then leveled off slightly
> below H, then went down and stayed in middle for a while. Very

The radiator can't do what you just described but a water pump,
thermostat or collapsed hose can. Check your heater hoses for rot or
collapsed inner liner or overtight support clamp somewhere. Make
sure the housing gasket is not interfering with the opneing of the
thermostat and that it's settled in it's recess properly with spring
toward the block etc.. Also, have you ever burped the coolant in the
heads? Sometimes air can get trapped in the heads and if you don't
burp the thermostat housing or manifold (wet manifold) heater line it
will stay there and cause boiling so depending on where the sender is
located you can get high readings etc.. (still needs to be burped
tho)


78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:52:15 -0700
From: "Michael Connor"
Subject: Re: Brake lock

Azie and the group,

Your unit was most likely a Mico unit. I don't know if they're
still manufactured or not, but I do know that they were
popular years ago.


Mike
Phoenix, AZ.


>Gary:
>
>I looked at my unit last evening. Nothing at all on it. No insignia -
>no name - nothing. The knob in the cab has a very faint " M CO"
>read this as M blank CO . there was a letter where the blank is, but I
>can't make it out. This knob is not necessarily the one that came with
>the brake locking unit either.
>
>Sorry
>
>Azie
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 09:05:48 -0800
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: VIN #

STU, when you are looking for the VIN on the right frame rail you might
have to scrape the paint and/or gunk off of the rail. When I registered
my 66 F100 here in CA DMV handed me a wire brush to scrape the junk off
my frame rail and I found the VIN just forward of the motor mount
John
66 F100, 94 Ranger Splash

-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner [SMTP:varners ten-nash.ten.k12.tn.us]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 8:15 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: VIN #

At 08:01 AM 3/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>From: Stu
>>Where on the Frame is the vin located on a 71 ?????? I was
unaware
>they put
>>the VIN on the frame.
>
> I just read in my Haynes manual "For title and registration
purposes
>the official VIN is stamped into the right front frame rail and
is
>usually visible from inside the engine compartment.
>
>
Thank you, I gone to check on it tonight when I get home.
I have been all over the frame and don't remeber seeing it!
STU


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 11:28:24 -0600 (CST)
From: Stu Varner
Subject: RE: VIN # and fan shrouds

At 09:05 AM 3/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>STU, when you are looking for the VIN on the right frame rail you might
>have to scrape the paint and/or gunk off of the rail. When I registered
>my 66 F100 here in CA DMV handed me a wire brush to scrape the junk off
>my frame rail and I found the VIN just forward of the motor mount
>John
>66 F100, 94 Ranger Splash
>John,
Thanks! I will look there tonight.

BTW- I wanted to mention to all 68-79 model guys, you can still purchase new
fan shroud assemblies from Obsoloete Ford on Oklahoma (NOT AFFILIATED, they
are just the only supplier for this part) I got mine in the mail yesterday,
finally after months of waiting, $89.96. It is not as "finished" as the
factory one but it is an exact match with FORD casting impressions and part
numbers stamped in just like the original. I guess the really strange thing
was that the box was a Real FORD parts box with a REAL
Ford part number. I guess Ford is still making this stuff. I ordered it
on Novemeber 4th, 1997.......go figure!

I also got a LH outside door handle from them, they have stopped making the
RH outside handle........Can these be rechrome effectively or do I need to
find a really good one and polish it? If they can rechrome this kind of
metal, I will try that first!
Anyone have opions on this or knowledge of the metal and plating it?
STU
Nuke GM!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 11:46:46 -0800
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V2 #120

Unfortunately, experience lets me speak on this issue. My '67 F100 met its
demise in a 100MPH roll-over collision in which the cab was separated from
the frame (with me in it). Not only was there no fuel spillage in the cab,
the only external loss of fuel was whatever drained out of the line between
the tank and the fuel pump. The cab (at 100 MPH) tweaked none; the only
damage was that one corner of the roof came down slightly and the rear
window popped out (the upper corners of the windshield cracked as well).
IMHO, if the tank had been between the frame rails, it would have run the
risk of being punctured as it tumbled through the field and the
motor/tranny tore loose. I felt very safe that the tank remained in a
secure, protected position.

Just my $.02.

>> The cab is the strongest, safest part of a pickup truck,
>Sorry I have to disagree. In a rollover the cab is likely to tweak ( like a
>parallelogram => /____/ )and in such a case the filler hose / neck might
>shear / rip off and spray fuel all over the inside of the cab. I think I saw
safety films showing this once.

bigric mail.utexas.edu, bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 09:50:16 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 390 for '61;

>Since the 292 was the V8 option in '61, I would think the motor mounts
>from the V8 would bolt to the 390 and it would be a drop in. Maybe the
>I6 stands are different from the V8, but this is a bolt in trhing.
>
>Azie

Hey Azie,

My buddy has a 56 ford pu with nothing much in it right now, it came
originally with a 292 (Y block anyway, not sure on the displacement, has the
V8 emblem on the hood). He wants to replace it with a good 352 I have that
I no longer need.

Am I to understand that the 352 will drop in, from your above post? How are
the castings similar, and how are they different? cd you elaborate on some
of this stuff for me? Also, how much does a Y block weigh in comparison to
the "feathery" 352?

Thx.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 10:03:06 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Rattling Rocker Arms

> Thanks Marko,
>
>I'll try the different weighted oil 20W50 and check the
>cost of the oil pump. I'll change the oil this weekend
>and let you know what happened.
>
>Thanks again for your help!
>
> -Ted
>

Ted,

Oil pumps are cheap. You shouldn't pay more than 40 bucks (Canadian) or so.
By the way, I recommend against a high volume oil pump for several reasons:

1. You are not running le mans
2. Further to 1 above, your engine will never see 7000 rpm
3. Stock pumps make plenty of pressure (shud be 50 lbs or so at idle, 40
anyway) and are cheap
4. FE's tend to pump the bottom end dry of oil (push it all up into the
lifters n heads) with a hi volume oil pump, or at high (+5500) rpm. Unless
you want to do several hundred $ in oil work opening up the bottom passages
and restricting the top ones.

Get a Sentinel or a Melling. You should get a pump for a 64 T-bird or so.
These make more pressure than the ones for late-model FE's (like a recent
truck engine, 72 to 76 or so). Ford changed the pressure relief valve so
the later model pumps run lower pressure.

Gaskets will come with the pan gasket if you buy Detroit or Fel-Pro.

Don't let the parts guy talk you into a hi volume pump, you don't need it
and it could even pump the bottom dry without a deeper sump etc. He just
wants you to spend more money.

BTW when you remove the oil pan make sure you loosen from the corners to the
middle and then tighten from the middle to the corners. Don't overtighten
(15 lbs is enough, that's about 180 in lbs) and even then do that in stages.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 12:54:07 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: Engine swaps and tranny locations

I just got a chance to meet Serian, and buy a C-6, from him last weekend.
Besides enjoying talking with one h*ll of a nice guy, I'm hoping his vast
knowledge and common sense will rub off by association... I doubt it.

Thanks again, Serian, for the trans and the information about the salvage
yards! Thanks for the help loading, too.

MikeR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 13:11:18 -0500
From: "Michael Redden"
Subject: Re: 100mph rollover in '67 F100

Were you airborne for long??

MikeR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:15:46 -0800
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: Disk brake conversion ('68)

I have only one question regarding Ken's article on swapping disk brakes
into older F100s. I currently have a master cylinder/booster from a '72
with front drums installed in my '68. I'm pretty sure I will need a
'73-'79 master cylinder. I'm figuring that my current booster should work
OK. Any comments on any of this? I'll probably embark on this during
spring break, so help is appreciated. BTW-Ken, that is an excellent guide.
bigric mail.utexas.edu, bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:10:29 -0600
From: Jean and Phillip Johnson
Subject: Re: re ring a 390

shoman p3.net wrote:
>
> Calling out to the engine people,
> If I wanted to re ring my pistons(without boring the block) what size
> rings would i get??Would stock be to loose due to wear on the walls??
> .10 over the size????How about main and rod bearings what size there??
> I'm looking to get some more mileage out of the truck without going
> the full blown rebuild$$$ I see re ring kits for $160 in P.A.W.
> any help send it my way

If you're going to go with oversize rings you're going to need oversize
pistons to go with them. Additionally it would be next to impossible to
determine exactly how much oversize they should be without checking the
bore. If you want to do all that I would recommend just pulling down
the engine and having the cylinders checked and bored if necessary and
then buying the proper oversize pistons and rings. As for the main and
rod bearings the same holds true. If the crank has to be turned then
you'll know exactly what size bearings you're going to need. Otherwise
it would be a shot in the dark and you'd be looking at potential
tolerance problems and an eventual rebuild. If you're unsure of the
crank have it checked and if it needs to be turned then get the proper
bearings to fit it. I don't know what is prompting you to put new rings
and bearings in it in the first place, but if things like a rod knocking
or worn out main and rod bearings probably mean you have a problem with
the crank also. Also worn out rings and loss of compression or
increased oil consumption probably means you should have the block
checked for other problems (like cylinder wear) in addition to the worn
out rings.
Of course all of this is just my opinion but I have found that doing
partial work usually results in partial performance and longevity.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:22:06 CST
From: "Harry Jennings"
Subject: Re: ads, 302 swap, and 3.0 V6

302 SWAP:



I forgot to mention one thing. It souldn't make a difference if a 302
was offered that year or not. If you have a 300/6 then you have the same
frame mounts as a later year truck that has a 300/6. All you need are
the correct frame mounts from a 302 truck. You will NOT have to move the....

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