fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, March 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 119
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: 460 cooling problems 
Re: 6=8 
Re: Intro 
Brian [fred robinson ]
Brian [fred robinson ]
Re: Brian [danadeb pacbell.net]
Thanks ["John Von Eichhorn" ]
302 update again [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
Re: Brian [Brian ]
Re: 302 update again [danadeb pacbell.net]
62' Unibody ["Mike Fankhauser" ]
Code 13 on 1978 ["Warren Anderson" ]
new old motor [DC Beatty ]
Re: 302 Swap update [sdelanty ]
> I was wondering if you all can help me out with the
> cooling system in my truck. I have a '75 F-250 4x4 that I
> recently put a 460 in. The problem is that it begins to
> overheat after driving 5 or so miles at highway speeds. I
> put on a new water pump when I put the motor in, and a new
> 180 degree thermostat today, and a new fan clutch a few
> weeks back. The antifreeze is fine and the thermo. works
> fine, but my factory gauge will still show above H for a
> while then come down to normal, then go up again. Any
> ideas? Do I need a flex fan, or high volume water pump,
> or electric fans? I assume the water pump is working OK,
> is there any easy way to test it? Doesn't make any
> noise. Could it be the sending unit? I believe the
> sending unit off my 360 was put on the 460 in order to use
> my factory gauge. Any way to test that? The gauge moves
> fine, could it be showing hotter than it really is?
> Please help, I don't want to screw up a good engine that
> I just spent alot of money on to put in. Thanks for
> your help! Mike Vonhofyasky netins.net
Make sure your timing and vacuum connections are correct. I
installed a 460 from a 78 Lincoln in my 73 F-100. The
original engine was a 360 and I did not change the radiator
(which everyone said would be too small), I then went to an
electric fan (Which everyone said wouldn't move enough air),
THEN installed an electric water pump (which everyone said
wouldn't move enough water). The only time I had an
overheating problem was when I had it certified in CA (I
originally built it in So. Carolina) and had to use CA
timing spec's and use the ported vacuum outlet on the carb
to keep the smog police happy even though it produced less
pollutants than the original engine. Even then it only
overheated when stuck in a freeway gridlock on interstate
680 in the bay area on a hot summer day. BTW, I use the 460
water temp sending unit and it seems to work fine.
> 6=8 is, indeed, the logo of Cliffords Performance. The now have a web
> site at, you guessed it, .
> I don't think they have a parts listing yet. However, they respond to
> Email VERY fast.
I would like to add that I have used Clifford Research products on
hot-rodded sixes in the past and found them to be quality products, well
made, and well suited to the application.
> Forwarded for: ROSITCH SSRL.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU
> Since Chris has set fire to the gas station with his introduction and claim
> that '72-'96 trucks have no character......
Hmmm, the spectators and competition at both the Carolina Dragway outside of
Aiken SC and at Redding CA where I raced my 73 , 460 powered F-100 seemed to
think it had quite a lot of character. It sure made the S(uper) S(lug) 454 Brand
X trucks look foolish. It was a rather popular truck (for having no character and
73 F100, 460 by Lincoln
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 06:49:11 -0800
From: fred robinson
Why buy parts ot have to bend and weld it all together? I used a throttle
cable from a car and some pickups have them also. I used my stock pedal
and heated it up and twisted around to face forward and cut a slot and
drilled a larger hole in it to except the cable end works great and have
been using for abour 4 years now.
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 07:11:06 -0800
From: fred robinson
Brain, I forgot to tell you that my truck is a 1966 F-250 4 door crewcab
that came with a 300 six which has the carb on the same side as the 240. I
put a (69) 302, AOD transmission and Headman headers in it. And thinking
about it I had to drill a larger hole in the fire wall for the cable
housing to clamp to. This is the smoothest throttle linkage that I have
ever had in a conversion. By the way I used 69 (F-10)brackets and stock
motor mounts bolted to the holes next to and under the steering column. The
trans mount had to be slid back one bolt hole. I had to find short drive
shaft to install the AOD. Love that 4th gear.
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 08:05:56 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Brian
fred robinson wrote:
> Why buy parts ot have to bend and weld it all together?
I agree to some extent but why MacGyver a part when you can buy a stock part
that fits and works as intended.
( I.E. I could have drilled out all of the rivets, hammered flat all of the bent
parts, welded up and re-drilled all the holes, installed bolts and lock nuts in
place of the rivets, and reassembled my hood hinge. I opted to go to the local
Pick-Your-Part and pay $7.00 for one that is in really great shape. )
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 09:18:00 -0800
From: "John Von Eichhorn"
I wanted to thanks you for the advice on my 65 F250 clutch problem. I =
was away from home for a little while, but I'm climbing under the truck =
today to check things out. You've given me some things to look at and =
hopefully fix before I decide the clutch needs a rebuild.
I wanted to thanks you for the advice on my 65 F250 =
problem. I was away from home for a little while, but I'm climbing =
the truck today to check things out. You've given me some things =
at and hopefully fix before I decide the clutch needs a =
I'll let you know how things work out.
John von Eichhorn
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 13:38:50 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: 302 update again
Well I have picked the brains of the parts guys at Ford dealership and
also the man at the u-pull it yard according to all of them 69-79 302
motor mounts "bolt right up" that is fine but I have a set from a 69, 73
and now a 75 and none of them bolt up to the original holes. Question is
what if I have another frame? Well I did some scraping and digging this
morning on the frame and guess what I found another #. The Vin on the
dash is F10GEG10211 the Vin on the frame is F10ACE0112 now according to
these #'s the body has been swapped to another frame or did Ford build
frames in Ontario and send them to where the body was built? Is there
any way to tell what year the frame is? It is obviously not a 69 Maybe
68 frame left over with 69 body? If it is a 68 frame would the 67-68
motor mounts be the only ones that work since the vintage is 67-72? Any
suggestions? I will update again when I find out more maybe this will
help someone else someday. Leave it to me to get an oddball.
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 16:23:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Brian
I didn't have to bend or heat up or twist anything. I just got a piece
of linkage with an adjuster on it off a donor vehicle. Then only had to
enlarge the hole on the carb throttle bracket. Was able to adjust it to
fit and is a solid steel rod. Works great. Guess I was fortunate that it
lined straight up ?
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 15:59:13 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 302 update again
George Schott wrote:
The plot thickens!!!!
> Is there
> any way to tell what year the frame is?
Shop manual says what month in what year based on the letter before the number
and the number
I don't know for sure but in my 70 manual says that:
My truck was built in Nov. 69 F25HRG94567
Aug. 69 G10,000-G29,999 were 69 model years
Aug. 69 G30,000-G49,999 were 70 model years
By guestamating backwards I would guess that it is from Sep-Nov 68 my best guess
is October since the unit number is so low (0112).
Dennis Pearson wrote
>As to the question of the price of the 62 Unibody, it's hard to say. I
>paid $2300 for mine, but it's pretty darn nice and w/ a great runnin'
> And it's a short box with the large rear window (very hard to find). Oh
>yeah, it has a tailgate, but not a very good one, and even the tailgates
>good shape are butt-ugly IMHO.
>I would find it very hard to believe that it has 46,000 original miles,
>and it is on a lot, which almost automatically means it is not a bargain,
>again IMHO. If it is near me, I would try to get a look at it if it is
>short box. Just an obsession with me--looking at Unibody Ford trucks.
I just want to say that I also am very fond of the Unibody short box. I am
in retro on a 61' and, like Dennis, I too have a tail gate with cam-over
latches. A little rust but in very good shape. If I was not in the middle
of getting this one on the road, I would be very intrested in picking up
the 62' for 1500.00. Let me know if this 62' does not sell by early summer
and I may look harder.
61' F100 unibody, 289 - C4 "BOX"
97 F150 s/Cab, not quite the same
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 23:45:57 -0500
From: "Warren Anderson"
Subject: Code 13 on 1978
Does anybody know what a Code 13 is on a 1978 rear axle? I have two books
telling me different things.
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 00:05:36 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: new old motor
Hello list. =
I picked up a 390 out of a 1968 Fairlane to replace the oil-spittin' 352 =
my '67 F100. I was hoping someone could help me out with some of the
numbers off of it. =
=46rom the back of the cylinder head: 8B143688
=46rom the block near the oil filter: 8C4B2
=46rom the tag under the coil: 390 68 10
8C K 311J
I know that one of these numbers is the engine ID number, but which one a=
what do they mean? I couldn't find any of them in the Red Book.
I popped a valve cover and there was no sludge whatsoever. : ) It was
ultra-clean!! None of the plugs were oil fouled. Also, there was still
yellow paint on the valve springs and there was still paint cooking off o=
the inside of the covers. The guy who was helping me with it remarked tha=
this was unusual for an engine that old, and I know that I have never see=
paint inside any of the valve covers I've been into. What do you guys
think? The odometer on the car read 15,048. =
Nah...couldn't be original miles. Why do I think such things? =
Thanks very much in advance for any help or suggestions,
> I am
>installing an Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. and the throttle hooks up on the
>drivers side where on the 240 it hooked up on the passenger side what
>are some good ways and materials to make the linkage out of? Thanks for
>all of the help will update again.
I suppose You could make what You need out of some mild steel tubing,
but it seems easier just to goto the wreckers and get the V-8 gas pedal....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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