fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, February 24 1998 Volume 02 : Number 110



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Transfer Case Info ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Transfer Case Info [james oxley ]
Re: Transfer Case Info ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Mike Paz" ]
Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
How To Gear A 460 [Jim Craig ]
Brake lock [am14 chrysler.com]
Hood hinges [am14 chrysler.com]
???????? [am14 chrysler.com]
Xfercase [am14 chrysler.com]
Neutral in Xfercase [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Transfer Case Info [Don Grossman ]
Tony, I am interested in the 400 Offer! ["MICHAEL THOMAS"
Re: Hood Hinges [Jim Henjum ]
Re: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios ["Bill Beyer"
Re: Transfer Case Info [Vogt Family ]
292 manifold ["Don Wignall" ]
Re: Transfer Case Info [Don Grossman ]
Re: Grill Removal ["Dennis K. Austin" ]
Re: Engine ID [Dan Koster ]
Re: Stan's infamous headers [Dan Koster ]
Re: Hood Hinges ["Dennis K. Austin" ]
Re: Hood Hinges [A64F100 aol.com]
Re: Engine ID [Dan Koster ]
Re: Stan's infamous headers [Dan Koster ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 15:24:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

> From: wayside cyberhighway.net (Rob Patelke)
> Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info
> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:02:16 GMT

> Speaking of transfer cases, what is the purpose of the neutral
> setting? Rob

With a manual tranny probably not too much advantage but with an auto
it means you can tow it without taking out the rear driveshaft. I
don't know of any other "real" advantage other than it's a little
easier to push it around in the garage if you put it in neutral and
checking u-joints is a little easier...........?

There pretty much has to be a point where it's not in any gear in
order to shift between hi and lo or something would break in the
transition. The only difference between this and the newer ones
without an "official" neutral is the detent and perhaps a bit more
space for it to linger in, don't know for sure on that one?

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 15:40:04 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
> I
> don't know of any other "real" advantage other than it's a little
> easier to push it around in the garage if you put it in neutral and
> checking u-joints is a little easier...........?

How bout if you have a power takeoff on it, would you possibly use
nuetral for just power takoff??

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 15:44:18 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

> Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 15:40:04 -0800
> From: james oxley
> Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

> How bout if you have a power takeoff on it, would you possibly use
>
> nuetral for just power takoff??

Good point. I forgot with the NP435 and NP205 I have my choice of
PTO locations :-) Wish I hadn't lost my book marks a while back with
PTO sources listed. I'm thinking about getting serious about looking
into a hydraulic PTO system to run snow blades and winches etc.. I
had one once I used to run a log splitter but it wasn't very
efficient that way. You don't really need 200 Hp to run a log
splitter :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: 24 Feb 1998 13:08:07 -0800
From: "Mike Paz"
Subject: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

Subject: Time:12:49 =
PM
OFFICE MEMO Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios =
Date:2/24/98

>I have a spread sheet and can plug in your numbers for you if you can
>tell me the tire diameter you plan to use and whether you have an OD
>tranny or not etc.. Generally if you get it down around 2k - 2200
>rpm it's about right but the old 6 bangers may want a little more
>rpm, not sure since it depends on camming and where the engine makes
>it's torque.
Thanks for the quick response...I am new on this posting... I'm running =
a set of 33x11.50x15 A/T tires with the stock Ford 3.03 tranny. The rear =
axle has 4.11 gears. I am also looking for a four (dream of a 5) speed =
tranny that isn't so geared towards hardcore wheeling. I don't mind the =
low first gear, but reality is I do a heck of a lot more daily =
driving...I wish there was a happy medium.

>How much does a bob tail weigh? My big bronco hits real close to 5k.
What do you mean bob tail? My bronco is about 4500lbs...
>BTW, I'm jealous, I've always wanted a bob tail and it's next on my
>list (to add, not replace)

>Can't help you with the carb, I've been into BB V-8's for too long
>now :-)
Is there a general formula for calculating carb compatibility? Is it =
just the diameter of the intake opening that is important or are there =
other factors?...if it is just the size of the intake manifold, can't =
that just be machined, modified, or made?

>78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
>78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

>- -- Gary --

66 Bronco 170, Ford 3.03, Dana 20, 33's
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 16:34:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

> Date: 24 Feb 1998 13:08:07 -0800
> From: "Mike Paz"
> Subject: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

> Thanks for the quick response...I am new on this posting... I'm
> running a set of 33x11.50x15 A/T tires with the stock Ford 3.03
> tranny. The rear axle has 4.11 gears. I am also looking for a four
> (dream of a 5) speed tranny that isn't so geared towards hardcore
> wheeling. I don't mind the low first gear, but reality is I do a
> heck of a lot more daily driving...I wish there was a happy medium.

I'm assuming the 3.03 is a 3 speed on the column? In any case, no
over drive right? My calculations net 2594 rpm at 60 with your
present setup. This may be a bit high even for a 6 banger. Again my
calculations, guessing that 2250 would be pretty close gives 3.50 as
the ideal gear. If you want to try camming and modifying the engine
for low end torque and good economy at 2000 rpm then 3.08 or 3.25
would be good.

> What do you mean bob tail? My bronco is about 4500lbs...

Man! I didn't think the little ones weighed that much?? Bob Tail is
just a nick name they got because they have such a short wheel base I
guess. I've just alway called the 66 - 77 broncos bobtails. Not
sure where I first heard it. Just looked in the trader on line and
found 147 bobtails for sale!

> Is there a general formula for calculating carb compatibility? Is it
> just the diameter of the intake opening that is important or are
> there other factors?...if it is just the size of the intake
> manifold, can't that just be machined, modified, or made?

You can get 2v or 4v manifolds for the 300 I6 but your current
manifold probably won't work with anything but a single due to the
mounting base. The 2v and 4v manifolds duct the mixture differently
too so would be much better. I've seen dragsters with three Holley
2300's or with 3 Webbers so your imagination (and pocketbook) is the
limit :-)

78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:07:46 -0600
From: Jim Craig
Subject: How To Gear A 460

Let's see if we can't come up with a good gearing combo. I'll use the
Edelbrock Performer RPM graph which claims peak 469 HP and 516 ft/lbs.
torque for a 460, since this is how I'll start....As I progress with the
modification of my truck, these items will play a factor:
1) 33" (advertised) tire diameter
2) Auburn
3) Gotta Build A Wide Ratio!!
4) same 1:1 ratio 3'rd gear
Peak torque is at 4000 RPM--too high. Drops 18-20 ft/lbs. at 3500. Down to
about 475ft/lbs. at 3000. The graph stops there, but torque should hover at
or below 450 ft/lbs. at 2500. Now with an 11% lower first (2.84), to get
maximum acceleration I would need 3.25 gears--that can't be right...But with
the first gear set to optimize the engine's torque curve, highway RPM would
put the most efficient speed where?

- --Hey sleddog, did you say E4OD Wide Ratio? There is one in the catalog for
the C-6, but 1st ratio is only 2.72:1.


- ----Oh No!!! We didn't match up a torque converter...Argh!! I know the
diameter and stall speed is gonna really screw this up!

Jimbo
'77 Supercab

An Electric Hybrid
Is Starting To Look Good

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:14:20 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Brake lock

George wrote:>>It would be hard on the wheel cylinders and battery.

I don't claim to know anything about the electric ones, but I have an
old farm truck that has a mechanical locking device for the brakes.
This truck was once a city delivery truck with a 14' box van body on
it. I guess they are the ones that installed it, because the emergency
brake cables were cut off right at the backing plate. I've had this
truck for 15 years (it is a '76 F350 dual wheels and a 14' flatbed),
and I haul anything and everything on it. I've left it sitting for a
week with the brekes locked and get in it and forget to unlock it and
found out immediately that it was still on. The truck won't move. It
holds forever seemingly, and I think from examining it, that it should.
It locks both the front and the rear. It is engaged by pushing the
brake pedal until the brakes are sufficiently locked and pulling this
cable which is much like a choke cable - or a PTO cable. The cable
stays out until you push it in and this is when you release the
brakes. I love it, and I didn't even know there were such things until
I got this truck. The mechanism itself is approximately 10" long and 2"
in Dia (Hex). It has both brake lines coming in the ends and exiting
near the center, and the lever that the cable operatesis dead center.
It sits on the left fender well just below the mastercylinder.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:20:57 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Hood hinges

Brian writes: >>Now when I go to shut the hood...it comes forward
about 6" past the front of the truck !! I've noticed that the hinges
don't operate very smoothly....Are the hinges just worn out? ore are
they sprung the wrong way ? Anybody experienced this before ??

Oil them suckers up and try again. Might work - might not, but won't
cost much.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:50:13 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: ????????

Steve are you always this meticulous when building your engines and
such??????
Do you keep all records this acurately. If so Uncle Sam just as well
lay off you.


Cyl Head piston/deck gasket total C.R.
# volume volume volume volume

1 68.7 35.0 8 111.7 8.15
2 71.5 35.1 8 114.6 7.97
3 70.0 35.6 8 113.6 8.03
4 68.8 36.6 8 113.4 8.04
5 70.2 35.8 8 114.0 8.0
6 71.4 34.7 8 114.1 8.0
7 70.9 34.5 8 113.4 8.04
8 70.4 36.0 8 114.4 7.98

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:51:34 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Xfercase

Jason writes: >>As a new convert from Cheby to Ford, I wanted to know
more information about the transfer cases used in the 65 Fords. I have
a 65 2x4 and just bought a 65 4x4 F250 and am planning on moving over
the running gear.

Welcome aboard Jason. I think you'll find that once you BUILD a
FOMOCO, you can pretty much forget repairs for several thousands of
miles. Don't have to rebuild them very often.

I don't think the New Process was on the market until after your
model. Seems like it was introduced in '73, but I'm wrong a lot. I
would guess you have a Borg Warner unit. It should have a tag on it
somewhere to identify it, and also the gear ratios.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:52:42 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Neutral in Xfercase

Rob writes: >>what is the purpose of the neutral setting?

Xfercases have a PTO access plate. I always assumed the neutral was
for operation of the PTO, as the transmission would have to be in gear
for the Xfercase to receive power. JMHO!!!!!

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 13:55:15 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

I may be mistaken but I don't think you can change the intake manifold on a
170. I had a 200 in a 67 Mustang and I recall that the manifold was part of
the head casting. I think we've already covered the fact that a 2V adaptor
isn't worth even considering.

- ----------
> From: Mike Paz
> To: fordtruck61-79
> Subject: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios
> Date: Tuesday, February 24, 1998 9:29 AM
>
> Subject: Time:9:14
AM
> OFFICE MEMO Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios
Date:2/24/98
>
> I have a question regarding putting some other type of carb on a '66
inline 6 (170 cu.) motor. Is it possible to put a 2 bl. carb instead of the
single barrel? What carb and what kind of modifications? Any info would be
appreciated. Also, I am curious about switching gear ratios in my rear
axle...I have never done that before. I can't find much information on this
because I want to set the gears up for better highway driving and the only
info I can find is on making it a better rock crawler...
> Thanks,
> Mike.
> (I have a '66 Ford Bronco)
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 12:10:57 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:30:42 +0000
> > From: Jason Eaton
> > Subject: Transfer Case Info
>
> > As a new convert from Cheby to Ford, I wanted to know more
> > information about the transfer cases used in the 65 Fords. I have a
> > 65 2x4 and just bought a 65 4x4 F250 and am planning on moving over
> > the running gear.
> >
> > Besides the transfer case being "divorced" does anybody know what
> > the internals are like?
> >
> > Is it gear driven or chain?
> > What are the ratio options, "4-low", "4-high"?
> > Does it have a neutral? Like the NP205/203?
>
> I'm going to guess it is an NP-205? You can get the model number off
> the case, it's embossed right onto the casting. If it's a 205 it is
> gear driven and has a 2:1 low ratio. Shift options are 2hi, 4hi, n,
> 4lo.
>
> 78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6, 235's
> 78 Bronco 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>
> -- Gary --

May I jump in here a second? Thank you

205? nope. If the truck is stock it is going to be a Spicer/Dana 24.
Just think of it as an early NP205 just not as low geared 1.89:1 and the
shift is 4Hi, 2Hi, N, 4Lo.

As for moving the running gear over you may have a problem. Take a
close look one is going to be coil and the other is leaf in the front.
Some of the 65 4x4 use the same frame and cab as the 61-64 trucks so the
cab will be different also. There should be a step in the 4x and no
step in the 2x. The cab mounts are also in different places. You will
be looking at some custom work putting in the t-case and front end. The
rear end will just bolt into place.

Take a minute and crawl around under the truck and take note of all the
diferences.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:34:22 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Tony, I am interested in the 400 Offer!

This is too a fella who e-mailed me last week about an enigne I was
interested in, but our server is really messed up right now, so I
will see if he can get it this way.
Thanks!

> Tony-
>
> I tried to reply to your e-mail you sent me last week, but the setup
> didn't work. I'll try again and see what happens.
> I am very interested in your engine offer. Anytime in the evening is
> fine with me. Just reply and let me know your schedule.
> Thanks!
>
>
> M. Dustin Thomas
> mdthomas nc.edu
> KB9OGG (If you're a ham.)
> Young and dumb.
>
> '77 F150 Ranger, 400 V-8 (I need 4WD!!)
> '91 G*C Sonoma (Up for sale, anyone interested??)
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:07:27 -0600
From: Jim Henjum
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

Brian,
My cousin's '65 F350 had the same problem about a week ago. It would
overhang the front quite a bit. His hinges weren't folding up the right way.
It was kinda so that we had to push up on the back of the hood while we put
the hood down. (actually, we had to use a bottle jack to lift the back of
the hood) I think his hinges are bad somehow (this was in the dark). It
works fine now, but he can't open it all the way. Just wanted to let you
know it might not be the springs themselves.

Ross Henjum
Sunburg, MN

'75 F250 4x4 390, C-6, 203
'78 F150 302, C-4 (engine and tranny for sale)

Brian wrote:

> boneyard I picked up a set of springs. I put them on and bolted the hood
> to the hinges, Now when I go to shut the hood...it comes forward about
> 6" past the front of the truck !! I've noticed that the hinges don't
> operate very smoothly....Are the hinges just worn out? ore are they
> sprung the wrong way ? Anybody experienced this before ??
>
> Thanks..Brian
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 16:17:23 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Re:Re: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios

I may be mistaken but I don't think you can change the intake manifold on a
170. I had a 200 in a 67 Mustang and I recall that the manifold was part of
the head casting. I think we've already covered the fact that a 2V adaptor
isn't worth even considering.

- ----------
> From: Mike Paz
> To: fordtruck61-79
> Subject: Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios
> Date: Tuesday, February 24, 1998 9:29 AM
>
> Subject: Time:9:14
AM
> OFFICE MEMO Carburator Stuff & Gear Ratios
Date:2/24/98
>
> I have a question regarding putting some other type of carb on a '66
inline 6 (170 cu.) motor. Is it possible to put a 2 bl. carb instead of the
single barrel? What carb and what kind of modifications? Any info would be
appreciated. Also, I am curious about switching gear ratios in my rear
axle...I have never done that before. I can't find much information on this
because I want to set the gears up for better highway driving and the only
info I can find is on making it a better rock crawler...
> Thanks,
> Mike.
> (I have a '66 Ford Bronco)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 17:25:29 -0800
From: Vogt Family
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

On Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:30:42 +0000, Jason Eaton jason eatonweb.com>
wrote:

> As a new convert from Cheby to Ford, I wanted to know more information
> about the transfer cases used in the 65 Fords. I have a 65 2x4 and just
> bought a 65 4x4 F250 and am planning on moving over the running gear.
>
> Besides the transfer case being "divorced" does anybody know what the
> internals are like?
>
> Is it gear driven or chain?
> What are the ratio options, "4-low", "4-high"?
> Does it have a neutral? Like the NP205/203?

If it is the original case it is a Dana 24. It has a name plate on the
drivers's side of the case, around the corner from the front output
shaft. This is gear driven and the ratio is supposed to have a 1.89 low
range although by counting the revs on mine I think it is a little
taller, perhaps 1.75. It has 4lo which is all the way forward, neutral
which is the next stop back (driveshafts spin independently), and 2hi
and 4hi back from neutral. In addition, if you put it in 4lo and then
pull back until you feel a small click in the shifter, you are in 2lo.
This is because the front output plunger comes out into neutral before
the rear output plunger begins to move.

I suppose that with this case you could remove the detent plugs and
convert to twin stick, but with the less than ideal low ratio, I don't
think it would be worthwhile.

The F-100s had a single speed transfer case but I believe it was always
"married" mounted. It is very small and has no neutral function, the
lever just engages or disengages the front driveshaft from the
transmission output.

Birken T. Vogt - KE6DLT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:18:58 -0600
From: "Don Wignall"
Subject: 292 manifold

Jesus Cordosa, aka Chuy asked;
I want to replace my Holley two barrel in my '63 with an
Edelbrock. I went to my local NAPA store and they told me Edelbrock does
not make a two barrel. Therefore they suggested that I use an adapter for
it. Needless to say I am afraid to look for a four barrel intake for
my 292, I am more afraid of the cost than anything.
Does anyone know the consequences of putting a four barrel
adapter in a two barrel intake?

Jesus, aka Chuy,
Howdy to you too! You can always tell an Aggie in a crowd.
I have been subscribing to this list since about Thanksgiving and have been
following your progress with your truck. I had a '64 F-100 from '78 until
'98. Went to college at night for 10 years and drove that old truck most of
the time, 50 miles each way. I have fond memories of that old rascal.
Raised my kids in it.
My truck had the 292 and a 3 speed with overdrive. It would cruise at 70 or
75 all day. I thought about hopping up the engine but decided to put in a
302 and automatic when my youngest son broke the cluster gear, for the third
time. Anyhow, when I was looking for speed parts at swap meets, I found a
variety of parts for that engine. In my opinion, the best Ford intake for
your engine is a four barrel intake from a '57, 312 engine. I bought one
for $75. These engines were used in the Thunderbirds, some high
performance sedans, and some trucks. In '57 it was the biggest stock
engine available in a Ford car. The 312 was replaced with the FE in '58 and
the old "Y" block served until '64 as the economy V8.
There is a swap meet scheduled for March 27-29 at Navasota Trading Co. I
assume that is in Navasota but the contact for information is P.O. Box
960,Conroe, Tx 77305. Phone number is 409/825-8490. You quite possibly
could find one of these manifolds there. Then you could get a good four
barrel carb and you will get good mileage and will still have performance.
Stay away from the '55 and '56 intakes for the "cabbage head" carburetors.
While you are looking, if you find heads for the '56 or 57 312 or 292, your
engine performance will increase significantly. I put '57 , 292 heads on
mine and the difference is incredible. Then you can look for a set of the
Rams horn truck exhaust manifolds, a dual point ignition, a little stronger
cam........
By the way, I teach at A&M in the summer at the Firefighter Training School.
Good luck
Don W.
Carrollton, Tx.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:37:16 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Transfer Case Info

Vogt Family wrote:

In addition, if you put it in 4lo and then
> pull back until you feel a small click in the shifter, you are in 2lo.
> This is because the front output plunger comes out into neutral before
> the rear output plunger begins to move.
>
> I suppose that with this case you could remove the detent plugs and
> convert to twin stick, but with the less than ideal low ratio, I don't
> think it would be worthwhile.
>
> The F-100s had a single speed transfer case but I believe it was always
> "married" mounted. It is very small and has no neutral function, the
> lever just engages or disengages the front driveshaft from the
> transmission output.
>
> Birken T. Vogt - KE6DLT

If you pull the plate between the shift rails you can make it shift into
2Lo really easy. Just grind off the little tab that keeps it from going
into 2Lo. Starting in 65 with the coil spring front end Ford used the
single speed Dana 20 which was the "married" style. Before that time
both the F-100 and 250 used the Spicer/Dana 24.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:37:13 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Grill Removal

Well... I went out to the junk yard this morning and found a '66 F-100
sitting there on all 4 wheels of which none of them matched. Its a
Custom Cab. It looks like somebody tried to do a marblized paint job
that turned stucco on them. The cab had more rust it in than the bed.
I can have the bed for $125.00 if I want it. Its in much better shape
than the one on my truck.

However, it did have the chrome grill with only the right side bezel.
Its in perfect shape! Upon examination of the mounting I found that the
entire lower part of the truck's sheet metal and that steel piece around
the bottom of the radiator had rusted away. The only thing holding the
grill in was the bolts behind the bezel area and the top bolts. I had
it out in 5 minutes.

Thanks to Brain for telling me how I would have to get the grill out of
my truck. I guess I will drop the bumper and start removing that sheet
metal so I can finish the removal.

- -=DENNIS=-
'65,'66, '74 Ford F-100 (sounds like a Johnny Cash Cadillac)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:43:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: Engine ID

> Hey Mac,
>
> I've got a simple question for ya. I bought a bare old '61 FE 390
V-8 and
> want to know what it might have come out of. The previous owner
told me it
> came out of a '63 bus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan

>
>
> What Engine Do You Have?


The casting number on the engine block is:

C1AE6015G

There is another plate right below it that reads:

1K13:9


I have had the block cleaned at a machine shop and I can't find any
other plates anywhere. The guys there were able to confirm that it
was indeed a Ford/Mercury 390 engine but had no idea what it might
have come out of that particular year.



Let me know if you can help me out.

Dan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:50:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: Stan's infamous headers

Can anyone help me out here?

I just got this message back from Stan himself.

Are the headers going to fit a '61 390 just like they do a '65 390?



- ---Stan Fuller wrote (from Stan's Headers):

Our part number 222y fits a 1965 to 1976 2wd 390 I don't know if it
will
fit yours. STAN

- ----------

> Hello Stan,
>
> I'm inquiring about your infamous headers. All my friends have
'em and
so
> I guess it's time I joined the group.
>
> What I need are headers that can connect to a '61 FE 390 V-8 that is
being
> transplanted into a '63 F-100 Unibody.
>
> Please let me know what part(s) I may need. Also, I'd appreciate
any
info
> you could give on fitting it all together underneath the pickup.
>
> Thanks,

> Dan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 20:52:15 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

Well since the subject came up I want to ask more questions about this.
My '65 F-100 hood opens and closes smoothly, but except for one little
detail. Back by the windshield it pops up a little, say about an inch.
I can push it down, but I expect that it will come up again when driven
and air is filling the engine compartment.

I have adjusted the hinges and oiled them too. But it doesn't make much
difference. One of the things that I have noticed is that on many cars
I have seen there are studs with rubber up by the grill that act as
stoppers for the hood to make the hood appear to be in line with the
rest of the body. My truck doesn't have these. Should it? Is my hood
coming down too far in the front causing it to pull the back up? What
should the gap between the hood and the fenders be? I have yet to see a
'65 that has been restored so that I can examine these things. Do you
guys with the '65-'66 Mercs have an answer on this?

Oh... by the way anybody near Shreveport, La that needs glass for a '66
F-100 the one in the U-Pull it yard has perfect glass and intact chrome
around the windshield...that is until I decide to go pull the chrome...

- -=DENNIS=-

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 21:59:06 EST
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: Re: Hood Hinges

In a message dated 98-02-24 21:52:19 EST, you write:


My '65 F-100 hood opens and closes smoothly, but except for one little
detail. Back by the windshield it pops up a little, say about an inch.
I can push it down, but I expect that it will come up again when driven
and air is filling the engine compartment. >>

I can't answer this question but rather add to the mystery.. The hood on my
'64 F-100 does the same thing.. I thought that it was hitting on something but
looked and it isn't. hopefully somebody knows somethin to help...

Later,
Scott L

*Keep It Ford Blue*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 18:16:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Koster
Subject: Re: Engine ID


> Hey Mac,
>
> I've got a simple question for ya. I bought a bare old '61 FE 390
V-8 and
> want to know what it might have come out of. The previous owner
told me it
> came out of a '63 bus.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan

>
>
> What Engine Do You Have?


The casting number on the engine block is:

C1AE6015G

There is another plate right below it that reads:

1K13:9


I have had the block cleaned at a machine shop and I can't find any
other plates anywhere. The guys there were able to confirm that it
....


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