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Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 03:50:27 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #407
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, January 1 1998 Volume 01 : Number 407



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Suburbans by Ford? [John Pajak ]
Fuel Economy ["James E. Brady III" ]
RE carb advice, blue ovals [Thomas Hogan ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [Thomas Hogan ]
Removing sway bar mounts [Thomas Hogan ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: carb advice, blue ovals ["Bill Beyer" ]
Speakers on a '63 [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: carburetor/intake advice ["Dave Resch"]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Fuel Economy [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Removing sway bar mounts [danadeb pacbell.net]
Gauges [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: Removing sway bar mounts [danadeb pacbell.net]
RE: RE carb advice, blue ovals [Sleddog ]
Re: Lincoln Rear Disc Brakes ["Dennis K. Austin" ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [mcat epix.net]
RE: carb advice, blue ovals [DC Beatty ]
Re: Engine Paint Color [DBrents105 ]
Re: Suburbans by Ford? [Mike Blazek ]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [Mike Blazek ]
ADMIN: Street Classics [Ken Payne ]
Re: Suburbans by Ford? [Kurt Albershardt ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 04:49:48 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak
Subject: Suburbans by Ford?

Anyone ever seen an El Detalle? Ford sold these in Mexico in the
73-79 era. They look like C#evy Suburbans! Wonder why they never
tooled up stateside? They coulda sold ~millions~ of 'em. One of my
Ford truck books show a photo....

===
John Pajak JSPajak rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

75 F100 360/C6 (390 soon!)
68 Fairlane SW 351W/FMX
+a buncha Oldsmobiles and a Suburban (arghh)




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 08:59:27 +0000
From: "James E. Brady III"
Subject: Fuel Economy

Guys,
I am new to the list and own a 1971 F-100. It has a 360 with 4barrel
manifold from a 390 and a Holley 600 cfm carb. The rest of the driveline
is a four speed with granny low (is this a top loader?) and 9 inch with
3.70 or 4.11 rear gears. I want to improve fuel mileage. My first obvious
choice is to get a taller rear gear since I don't even use first gear. The
second thing I want to do is get 'The Ignitor' to replace the points. Does
anyone have any suggestions for other improvements? I am willing to change
to a more efficient cam also. The current cam is stock. I know this is
not the most efficient motor but any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:34:50 -0800
From: Thomas Hogan
Subject: RE carb advice, blue ovals

I have several friends who swear by the Interstate brand. I have never
bought one myself but was considering one.

One guy I work with gave me some of his tips on battery maintenance. He
uses a hydrometer (sp?) to check the concentration of acid in the
battery cells. If the concentration is wrong he adds more electrolyte.
If the concentration is ok but the level is low then he uses distilled
water. I knew to use distilled water but I didn't know about the
electrolyte. As the chemicals in the battery react the electrlyte and
water can boil off as gasses. I checked at a couple of stores and one
had electrolyte and the other didn't carry it because of liability
reasons. It is an acid and there are idiots/criminals (and criminal
idiots) out there. My friend claims to have kept a deep cycle marine
battery operating 10 years with this method. It was his trolling motor
- -- full charge, run FLAT, sit long time, full charge, run FLAT..... now
the battery in in his truck. Thought I would try his method. I usually
get about 5 years from a battery just by adding water.

Whatever brand you choose I would recommend getting one that is NOT a
seald battery (NO maintenance). You cannot get to the electrolyte to
check it. There are vents on the battery -- there has to be to allow
the gas to escape -- and the electrolyte and water boil off just like a
regular maintenance battery. I know Sears Diehard is still a
maintenance battery.

- ------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:02:13 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: carb advice, blue ovals

At 09:42 PM 12/30/97 -0800, marko wrote:
>Does anybody have any experiences good or bad with different brands of
>batteries? I'm in need of a new one and am wondering what's what.

Three words:

Buy an Optima. Period. If you can spring for the $120-150, you'll
never
regret it.

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:42:30 -0800
From: Thomas Hogan
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

Just to keep this thread alive, did Lincoln offer a 9" rear with disk
brakes? Could those parts be adapted or swapped directly? I saw
mention of a Granada as a donor vehicle. Did it have rear disk brakes
too?

Tom Hogan
76 F-150 390FE Super Cab (now featured on the best Ford Truck page's
pictorial)
96 Windstar (wife's hot rod)
PS. I'm on vacation and taking the list at my house, hence the change
in my address.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:50:03 -0800
From: Thomas Hogan
Subject: Removing sway bar mounts

I may be going to parts heaven today. I located a truck with front and
rear sway bars and since F-150s don't have them I thought a little swap
is in order. The wrecking yard I'm going to is relatively neat and
every car is on blocks about 2 feet off the ground supported at the
frame. To get the factory front mounts off I will have to drop the
front coil springs. Since front wheels are completely off the ground
can I safely do this by disconnecting the shock and then unbolting the
spring? If the sway bar, and shock are disconnected will the spring
tension be released to allow safe removal without a spring compressor?
Please reply to the list and cc me directly because I am on digest
format and I would like to know if I am about to do something trully
Darwinian before I go.

Tom H.
76 F-150 Supercab 390FE
96 Windstar (wife's Hot Rod)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:11:52 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

>
> Tyler If your still out there, you have my apologies for my part in the
> "Great Ford vs. chevy debate"!
>
> I know I and at least one other responded with info! Did you get
> anything useful?
>
> Dana
>
> P.S. Thanks to the other loyal Ford Folks for support!
> --- Deacon I just had to ;) ---

Yes, Dana I got some very useful info, just about to head to the
boneyard now this morning. Hopefully be able to find what i need. Thanx
for everything!

Tyler Wilkins
Milwaukee, WI

'79 F-100 4x2 351M, C6, 9"
'74 F-100 4x2 360 (68,000 origanal miles on whole truck)
'73 F-250 4x4 360 w/390 Heads, 4-barrel
'94 Explorer 4-Door

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:19:29 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

Tyler Wilkins wrote:
>
> >
> > Tyler If your still out there, you have my apologies for my part in the
> > "Great Ford vs. chevy debate"!
> >
> > I know I and at least one other responded with info! Did you get
> > anything useful?
> >
> > Dana
> >
> > P.S. Thanks to the other loyal Ford Folks for support!
> > --- Deacon I just had to ;) ---
>
> Yes, Dana I got some very useful info, just about to head to the
> boneyard now this morning. Hopefully be able to find what i need. Thanx
> for everything!
>
> Tyler Wilkins
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> '79 F-100 4x2 351M, C6, 9"
> '74 F-100 4x2 360 (68,000 origanal miles on whole truck)
> '73 F-250 4x4 360 w/390 Heads, 4-barrel
> '94 Explorer 4-Door
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

p.s. I forgot to put this in the above, I'm with you completely Dana.
Just had to get my info in.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:03:32 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

> So what are you saying about MY truck! I don't have a blue oval in the
> front but it's still a Ford. So if I don't have a blue oval, my truck
> isn't good enough for you! Is that what your are saying. *g*

My apologies to all of you "oval challenged" Ford owners. I certainly
didn't mean to leave y'all out of the picture.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:05:45 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

- ----------
> Bill Beyer wrote:
> > As long as the truck has a blue oval on the front
> > who really cares what the guts look like?
>
>
>
> O.K. last one I promise!
>
> so if I buy a chevy truck and stick a Ford oval on it, its a Ford,
> right?????????? ;)
>
> Dana

Naw, that's called putting lipstick on a pig.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:12:48 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: carb advice, blue ovals

- ----------
> From: marko
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: carb advice, blue ovals
> Date: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 9:42 PM
>
> Hey y'all.
>
> Well, just updating you from the great wet north. Lettuce is $2.00 a
head!!
> All of you seem to have got our winter weather, and we yours, sort of.
The
> sunshine is all of the liquid variety though.

Yeah but that's $2.00 CANADIAN so it's really about $0.14 US!

> Anyway, enough talk about blue ovals already! Most of us 67-72'ers have
> block letters, doncha know. I happen to have two sorts: Ford and
Mercury!!

Once again, sorry about leaving all you "oval challenged" Ford guys out of
my post.

> I have been phoning around engine builders. Piece of advice to those of
you
> also shopping: become knowledgeable! Happily I have an oddball engine
> (410) to rebuild so most people really don't know it's an FE. Those that
> do, tend to know a lot. Those that know off the tops of their heads are
> probably the ones to go to. Steve Christ's book (is he related to Jesus
> Cardoso? :-0) was really helpful. Evidently, basically everything is
> available, including new rocker arm/shaft assemblies. I am dropping it
off
> next week so will keep you all posted.
>
> Also, I picked up a spacer, wide cap, and wires for my Duraspark 360.
Every
> little bit helps I guess, I'll let you know if I notice a difference.
>
> Does anybody have any experiences good or bad with different brands of
> batteries? I'm in need of a new one and am wondering what's what.

I have had great luck with my DieHard. It's stood up to 4 years and 3
trucks including sitting in a project vehicle for 3 years on a trickle
charger. I just put it into my F250 after the 2 year old Schuck's special
died and it's still runnin' strong.

> I looked at the website for that roll-on bedliner stuff--looks
interesting.
> Has anybody ever tried it? I would think it'd make an excellent stone
guard
> on the cab mounts and wheel wells. Any thoughts?
>
> Finally, since I am building a motor I might as well bite the bullet and
> pick up a proper new carb. I bought a new Holley (sat in a box for years
> but was otherwise new) and have had nothing but ups and downs with it.
Fuel
> consumption went up, my degree of happiness went down. Somebody please
> explain to me what the difference is among the Holley, Edelbrock and
Carter
> designs (the builder recommended the Edelbrock, said "you bolt it on and
> forget about it") and the plusses and minuses of each. Also, please
explain
> to me what cfm rating I shud use. The volumetric charts say you don't
need
> 700+ cfm until over 5000 rpm (which I never do) but what about lower-end
> performance, fuel atomization, etc.
>
> Thanks in advance for all of your help! Here's wishing all of you a
safe,
> happy, and prosperous new year!

Same to you!

Bill Beyer
Vancouver, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 12:42:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Speakers on a '63

Hey Ya'll,

A couple of weeks ago someone (maybe a couple of you) mentioned
installing speakers in the panel of the doors of '61-'66 truck. I want to
know what were the largest speakers that you were able to fit... 6.5",
6"x9", etc? The reason I ask is that I want to build a particle board
panel to mount the speakers (I would not dare cut the metal in the
original panels). One of the concerns that I have is adding to much
weight to the doors and having them sag. Any ideas on how much weight is
to much?

On John Pajak's question on the suburban looking vehicles Ford
produced in Mexico....I have seen a couple of them when I was done there.
They are okay looking, fixed up they look really nice but if you look at
them with no customizing it looks like Ford just slapped it together and
did not put to much time on the design of the body. One thing that I have
noticed about trucks down there is that they are not built with the same
quality as up here. I know alot of people that would rather buy an old
American truck than a new truck down there. They say that they are more
reliable and are better work trucks.

Thanks and have a Happy New Year.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

Keep in mind the following:
- Minds are like parachutes, they only work when there are open.
- Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.
"All of us in the world smile in the same language."



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 12:02:07 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: carburetor/intake advice

>From: Adam Clever
>Subject: carburetor/intake advice
>
>'79 bronco, 351M (soon to be 400), Motorcraft 2150, manual
> transmission.
>
Yo Adam:

Wise choice to rebuild the 351M as a 400. With the 400, you'll have a wide
variety of good pistons available to get the compression ratio up in that
engine. All the aftermarket pistons made for the 351 Cleveland are
compatible with the 400.

BTW, which pistons are you going to use? What compression ratio are you
looking for? If you don't get the compression up beyond 8.2:1 (the factory
CR for the 400), you won't be as happy w/ the results of the rebuild.
IMHO, 9:1 or so will make a significant improvement, is easily doable, and
runs well on pump gas.

>Towards the end of the rebuild process, I'm going to need a
>replacement for the worn out 2150 carb. I've read and heard
>too much conflicting reports about carbs and need some
>more feedback to make my selection.
I would agree with the suggestion from Jason Schechner (jas cais.com) to go
with a modest 4V carb.

>I also will be replacing the cam for more torque, I'd like some
>advice here too. Do I just tell them to give me the 'low-end'
>model? Is it important to specify a 'RV' model?
The important characteristics of a cam are the lobe profile specifications,
such as degrees duration at 0.050" lift, total lift, lobe separation, and
advertised duration. Look at the cam specs, not the "name" of the cam
(i.e., "low end" or "RV"). The names (especially "RV") mean way different
things to different companies and different people. The specs are the
specs.

IMHO, for optimum low-end torque in a moderately built 400 engine, you
should look for a cam that gives less than 210 degrees duration at 0.050"
lift. I would also look for total lift (at the valve) of about 0.50".
There are several nice cams out there that provide these specs.

You might also consider beefing up the entire valve train, while you're at
it. I'd pop for at least a double-roller timing set w/ steel gears, and if
you can afford it, some roller bearing/roller tip rocker arms. Overall
stability of the valve train will be an important factor in long-term
reliability and performance of the engine. (A nice cam doesn't do much
good when the timing chain has enough slop to allow +-2 or 3 degrees
variation in the timing.)

>With a torque cam and a 400 engine should I just keep the the
>stock manifold and get another OEM carb? I shouldn't need
>very much CFM if my cam won't comfortably rev very high and
>all I intend to do is idle over the rocks and trails (and use as a
> daily driver), right?

As I understand carb theory, at low engine speeds, a smaller venturi will
give better throttle response than a large venturi. At a given air flow
rate (cfm), the smaller the diameter of the venturi, the higher the
velocity of the air flowing through it. When the air flows at a higher
velocity, the carb is more sensitive to throttle changes and it provides
more precise fuel/air mixture control and better atomization of the fuel.

BTW, the Motorcraft 2150 carb used on trucks is rated at 380 to 425 cfm.
In terms of the venturi size, this equates to a 700+ cfm four barrel!

IMHO, if you want a simple and reliable emissions-legal carb (and
manifold), I would recommend the Edelbrock #3771 intake manifold (with EGR)
and either the 500 cfm Carter AFB (#9504) or the 600 cfm Edelbrock
1400-series EGR carb (#1408, I think). One snag with the Edelbrock
manifold, you'll have top cough up an extra $40-$50 for the 4V EGR spacer
to adapt it to the 4V carb. Even though it's made for the 4V carb, it
comes from the factory w/ only a 2V carb EGR spacer (to allow you to mount
the stock Motorcraft 2150 carb).

>Opinions?

You name it, we've got it!
Happy new year.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 12:56:10 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

Thomas Hogan wrote:
>
> Just to keep this thread alive, did Lincoln offer a 9" rear with disk
> brakes? Could those parts be adapted or swapped directly? I saw
> mention of a Granada as a donor vehicle. Did it have rear disk brakes
> too?
>

Ya the mid to late 80 and up Lincoln had a rear disk on a 9" option and
I think it was the Versailles ( sp? ) rather then the granada that had
the 9" with rear disk ( the two types of rear disk breaks are not the
same )

There are kits for the lincoln ( see Curry Ent. in California ) I used
the Versailles and made my own mounting brackets. turned the end of the
stock 9" axle down and away I stopped!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 13:02:18 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Economy

What kind of fuel mileage are you getting now?

I'm Getting a whopping 7-8 MPG in the city!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 13:11:20 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Removing sway bar mounts

With the wheel in the full droop with the shock attached I think that
there is still some spring tension. if you have a jack put it under the
axle then remove the shock then lower the axle.


If you feel brave you might be able unbolt the shock and jump back fast
enough to get out of the way ;)

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:08:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: Gauges

Hi,

One more question....
I am thinking about adding some aftermarket gauges to my truck,
temp, oil pres, current, and rpm gauges. Can you all recommend any
particular brand? Thanks.

p.s. Do they just plug into to the same sensing units or do I have to
replace them?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy ('63 LWB Flareside F100, 292, T87)
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

Keep in mind the following:
- Minds are like parachutes, they only work when there are open.
- Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.
"All of us in the world smile in the same language."



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 13:20:07 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Removing sway bar mounts

Speaking of sway bars:

I have found that some 80s LTDs have very thick sway bars that bolt on
to the rear axle and only require two holes be drilled in to the lower
flange of the frame to mount the ends of the sway bar. Frame rail
distance might be a problem. ( I did the swap on a 1956 with 9" ford
rear ) on the 56 I had to bend the sway bar ends in a few inches but
every thing else fit great ( and it was all ford!!!!! )

Just a thought!!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 17:11:39 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: RE carb advice, blue ovals

Whatever brand you choose I would recommend getting one that is NOT a
seald battery (NO maintenance). You cannot get to the electrolyte to
check it. There are vents on the battery -- there has to be to allow
the gas to escape -- and the electrolyte and water boil off just like a
regular maintenance battery. I know Sears Diehard is still a
maintenance battery.

- ------------------------------

some kinds are no maintainance but are accessable. i have several ATV/bike
batteries like this and the brand i have been using most often, DEKA, for
my trucks are like this. they are sealed but the caps are removable for
maintainance.

i also try to buy a HD battery for big trucks, dozers, etc. the batteries
are less likely to be damaged from vibration - shock. the 1100 CCA DEKA HD
is about $60 to $70 if i remember right. they are larger than light truck
batteries, but fit right in on my 77 f150. it used to crank over a 460
with 11.5:1 compression and sae 50 oil on very cold Pa nights :)

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 22:03:47 -0600
From: "Dennis K. Austin"
Subject: Re: Lincoln Rear Disc Brakes

>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 20:12:35 -0000
> From: "mei home.com"
> Subject: Re: 9" disc conversion
>
> I don't know about the dana 60 but the I am designing a kit for my 9" using
> lincoln calipers and rotors out of a 82 to 92 lincoln---so far so good on
> adaptions just got to design a caliper mount and route the emergency brake
> cable--curry has a couple of kits available for the 9" and I think for a
> dana or two.
>
> ------------------------------
>
>Here is the bomb guys... There is an article called "The Straight Scoop on the Lincoln Disc Brake 9-inch." Its written by Ralph Lisena and is subtitled "If you're going to do it...Do it right!" This is about using the complete Versailles disc brake rearend. You can find this article in a pub called "All About Chassis, Street & Custom Rodding Illustrated." Its the Winter 1998 isssue and says Display Until 2/10/98. It talks about disc brakes, dropped spindles, hydraulics and air bags, and has a parts directory. $3.95 U.S. & 4.95 Canada. I found this on a newsstand at Books A Million. Its put out by Street Rodder Magazine.

Besides, if its not completely applicable it should have some good
insights on doing other conversions.

- -=DENNIS=-

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 97 17:39:46 PST
From: mcat epix.net
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

Tom,
I did a rear disc conversion last summer on my 56 efie last summer
using lincoln 9" discs. They came from a mk5 which used a 9" disc rear.
Some work was involved on the axle shafts and rotors but is mostly a bolt
on. The truck uses a 66-72 truck 9" rear. The front uses a superbell
mustang kit that was bolt on. Everything works fine and stops like a champ
with the horsepower i~m packing.
Garry
- --- On Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:42:30 -0800 Thomas Hogan
wrote:

>Just to keep this thread alive, did Lincoln offer a 9" rear with disk
>brakes? Could those parts be adapted or swapped directly? I saw
>mention of a Granada as a donor vehicle. Did it have rear disk brakes
>too?
>
>Tom Hogan
>76 F-150 390FE Super Cab (now featured on the best Ford Truck page's
>pictorial)
>96 Windstar (wife's hot rod)
>PS. I'm on vacation and taking the list at my house, hence the change
>in my address.
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 12/31/97 Time: 5:39:46 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 19:12:46 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: carb advice, blue ovals

On December 31 Marko wrote:


Does anybody have any experiences good or bad with different brands of
batteries? I'm in need of a new one and am wondering what's what. >

The last time I bought a battery (in July I think), I called the Intersta=
te
battery store and asked for a "blemished" battery for my truck. I guess
these batteries are exactly the same as the high dollar Interstate batts,=

but they have some little ugly about them such as the sticker being
crooked. So they can't sell them at full price. I guess full price folks
want a pretty battery. Mine isn't winning any beauty contests, it's
starting the truck!!

Mine has a melted spot on the top plastic. It's a 950 cold amp battery an=
d
I got it for $30.00. So far it has been perfect all winter. =


Just a suggestion.

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 19:16:03 EST
From: DBrents105
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Color

The 65 was Gold., but I believe that the 66 was blue.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:15:02 -0600
From: Mike Blazek
Subject: Re: Suburbans by Ford?

Hold that thought.....

There was a picture in Car & Driver a couple of months ago,
showing a Ford "Crew Wagon". It's built off of the soon-to-be
released F-350, and it's gonna hit the Suburban where it lives.
(It is, in fact, even longer than a Sub). They were predicting a
1999 debut.

Mike Blazek
Baton Rouge, LA
73 F-100 460/C6
"That 429 P.I. engine was the
best hundred bucks I EVER spent."

John Pajak wrote:

> Anyone ever seen an El Detalle? Ford sold these in Mexico in the
> 73-79 era. They look like C#evy Suburbans! Wonder why they never
> tooled up stateside? They coulda sold ~millions~ of 'em. One of my
> Ford truck books show a photo....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:33:11 -0600
From: Mike Blazek
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

Tom, I should have thought of that earlier, but as I've had
the flu since this thread started, I've been a little brain-dead.
I have access to a 78 Mark V, that has the rear disks and I'm
99% sure is a 9 inch. I don't think that there is more than an
1-1 1/2" difference in housing width, but the Lincoln does
have coil springs so you would have to add mounting pads
for the springs. I'll make measurements this weekend and
pass them along to the list..

Mike Blazek
Baton Rouge, LA
73 F-100 460/C6

"Meddle Ye not in the affairs of Wizards,for
thou art crunchy and taste good with ketchup."

Thomas Hogan wrote:

> Just to keep this thread alive, did Lincoln offer a 9" rear with disk
> brakes? Could those parts be adapted or swapped directly? I saw
> mention of a Granada as a donor vehicle. Did it have rear disk brakes
> too?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 20:37:16 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Street Classics

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:

We have another new advertiser on our web site. As we've done
for our other advertisers we're going to make a brief announcement
for 2 days. This is the 2nd day. This is our way of saying thanks
to them for helping us to expand our services to everyone here.
Please show your appreciation to them for helping to support the web
site and lists by checking out their site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/streetclassics.shtml
(This is an "anchor" page that will forward you to theirs)

Street Classics carries thousands of Obsolete and Hard-To-Find
Genuine FORD and LINCOLN/MERCURY parts and accessories for your....


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