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Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 03:50:27 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #402
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, December 27 1997 Volume 01 : Number 402



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re:fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #401 ["Chris Findlay" ]
Re: 460 Oil Pan.. [danadeb pacbell.net]
9" Disc Conversion [Tyler Wilkins ]
carburetor/intake advice [Adam Clever ]
Re: Tires and wheels [Chekerdpst ]
ADMIN: Street Classics [Ken Payne ]
Re: Motorcraft 2150 tips ["Dave Resch"]
Re: 9" Disc Conversion [danadeb pacbell.net]
RE: Wheels and tires [Sleddog ]
guilty, lighter side, anniversary, free web space. [Ken Payne
Re: F-250 4X4 front wheel rotor machining [Tom Shay ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 03:56:06 -0700
From: "Chris Findlay"
Subject: Re:fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #401

I will be out of the office on Vacation until December 29th.
You can contact DeeDee Van Lenten (dvlenten) for any questions.

>>> "fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net" 12/26/97 03:50 >>>


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, December 26 1997 Volume 01 : Number =
401



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

RE: 460 Oil Pan.. [Sleddog
>]
360 to 428 bore [BDIJXS
>]
F-250 4x4 front wheel rotor machining ["woody"
t]
Re: F-250 4x4 front wheel rotor machining ["Bill Beyer"
.]
Wheels and tires [reedg ns2.cetlink.ne=
t]
Re: Wheels and tires [Tyler Wilkins
>]

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- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 08:47:25 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 Oil Pan..

the vans do have rear sump, and that is the most common place to get a pam =
for putting a 460 into a truck.

sleddog

- - ----------
From: danadeb pacbell.net[SMTP:danadeb pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 1997 2:21 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan..

I have had 2 different oil pans in my 1970 with 460. the first was the
one that came on the automotive engine, it had a front sump but only
held 5 quarts and the drain plug was on the left ( pass) side. the
person who owned the truck before me and did the eng swap cut a hole in
the cross member for the drain.=20

the second is a truck pan ( at least that is what the wrecking yard said
) it has a front sump with the drain plug in the rear. It holds 6 quarts
of oil. ( the sump ts the same depth but longer then the auto sump )

Is it possible that the rear sump oil pans are from vans rather then
trucks?

Also I have herd of mid sump oil pans from broncos ( I don't know for
sure but it may be 302 or 351W pans )

Good luck

Dana








- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 13:41:46 EST
From: BDIJXS
Subject: 360 to 428 bore

Hello

I'm gathering info on the 360 to 428 conversion, and it looks like it =
won't be
too much trouble. Does anyone know for sure if I can bore out the 360 =
block to
the 428 specs without getting the jacket too thin?

Also, this is a 68 block, can I just go to Ford and buy the 428 crank? If =
so,
anyone have a part number???

Thanks!

Jeff Schulz
bdijxs aol.com

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 12:04:01 -0700
From: "woody"
Subject: F-250 4x4 front wheel rotor machining

Was browsing AutoCrafters catalog (mostly reproduction Ford PU parts,
located in Broadway, Virginia)--their listing for '78-'79 F250 4wd brake
rotors has this note: =20

"Machine rotor after re-hub." =20

This note is not printed with any other application (F-100, F-150 and =
F-250
2wd). Have asked a few locals and get conflicting views as to the
necessity of grinding new rotors after mounting before putting them into
service. Anyone have thoughts to offer pro or con? Is there some
variability in the hubs that would mandate truing after a new rotor is
mounted, or is the rotor too large in diameter to be accurately ground =
flat
until it is mounted? Or does it depend on the rotor manufacturer as to
whether it is "finished" and ready to use right out of the box?=20

Woody
wfriesen worldnet.att.net

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 11:44:42 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: F-250 4x4 front wheel rotor machining

I just replaced my right front hub last month and all I did was have the
old rotor attached to the new hub by pressing the lug studs which came =
with
the hub in. No problems at all and I don't see why the rotor would need to
be turned.=20

- - ----------
> From: woody
> Was browsing AutoCrafters catalog (mostly reproduction Ford PU parts,
> located in Broadway, Virginia)--their listing for '78-'79 F250 4wd brake
> rotors has this note: =20
>=20
> "Machine rotor after re-hub." =20
>=20
> This note is not printed with any other application (F-100, F-150 and
F-250
> 2wd). Have asked a few locals and get conflicting views as to the
> necessity of grinding new rotors after mounting before putting them into
> service. Anyone have thoughts to offer pro or con? Is there some
> variability in the hubs that would mandate truing after a new rotor is
> mounted, or is the rotor too large in diameter to be accurately ground
flat
> until it is mounted? Or does it depend on the rotor manufacturer as to
> whether it is "finished" and ready to use right out of the box?=20
>=20
> Woody
> wfriesen worldnet.att.net
>=20
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 19:13:40 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
Subject: Wheels and tires

Could somebody please give me a short course on wheel and tire sizes.=20
I am looking to get some wheels and tires for my 78 F150 4x4 and I=20
can't find info that I understand. I would also like some suggestions=20
on what kind to buy. I will be driving about 50% highway and 50% off=20
road. Thank you.

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 21:51:42 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: Wheels and tires

reedg ns2.cetlink.net wrote:
>=20
> Could somebody please give me a short course on wheel and tire sizes.
> I am looking to get some wheels and tires for my 78 F150 4x4 and I
> can't find info that I understand. I would also like some suggestions
> on what kind to buy. I will be driving about 50% highway and 50% off
> road. Thank you.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

I'm assuming this is a stock F-150, not lifted that is. I would
suggest the setup that i have on my '79 F-100, and my '94 Explorer.=20
This setup gives great looks and traction. The combo is 31x10.5 Bfg
Radial Mud-Terrains (around $130 a piece but worth every penny!, mine
are just about to retire but have been on 3 trucks for around 65k miles)
on 15x8 American Racing 'Golden Nugget' Rims, the rims are good looking
but not too pricy, in chrome they run $48 each. This set of tires and
rims outlasted my '85 Bronco II, my '91 Explorer and are now on my '94
Explorer (No lift needed on any of these trucks). I liked this set-up
so much, when i needed tires on my F-100 last year i bought the exact
same set-up. If your looking for a slightly less aggresive set-up I
would suggest the BFG Radial All-Terrains (about $20 cheaper per tire
and SLIGHTLY quiter ride). I swear by BFG though, I would settle for
anything less. I've put them through quite a bit of abuse and they've
never let me down. I also have the same type tires (Mud-Terrains) but
sized 33x12.5R16.5 on my '73 F-250 and consider them the best money i've
put into that truck. If you have any more questions, msg me back.

- ------------------------------

End of fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #401
*************************************

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| List removal information is on the web site. |
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 09:15:15 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan..

Ok! But why does my front sump fit like it was meant to be there?

Is the cross member in a different place or depth on pre 68 trucks?

I am so confused!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 12:28:35 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: 9" Disc Conversion

Has anyone done a disc brake conversion to a Ford 9"? I just replaced
my whole brake system except the rear brakes. I need Everything for the
back brakes so i figured if i'm spending all that money maybe i should
spend a little more and convert to disc. I've seen a lot of guys around
here do it. Has anyone done this or know anything about this
conversion? I would appreciate any info you could give as to worth,
Price, Brands, difficulty, etc... Thanx!


'79 F-100 351M, C-6 (Doing Conversion to this one)
'74 F-100 360, C-6 68,000 Origanal Miles! Still has Origanal tires!
(Bald but still on!)
'73 F-250 4x4, 360, 4-speed, 33" BFG's
'94 Explorer 4-Door, 31" BFG's

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 97 10:19:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: carburetor/intake advice

'79 bronco, 351M (soon to be 400), Motorcraft 2150, manual transmission.

Towards the end of the rebuild process, I'm going to need a replacement for
the worn out 2150 carb. I've read and heard too much conflicting reports
about carbs and need some more feedback to make my selection.

I also will be replacing the cam for more torque, I'd like some advice here
too. Do I just tell them to give me the 'low-end' model? Is it important
to specify a 'RV' model?

With a torque cam and a 400 engine should I just keep the the stock manifold
and get another OEM carb? I shouldn't need very much CFM if my cam won't
comfortably rev very high and all I intend to do is idle over the rocks and
trails (and use as a daily driver), right?

I've heard that Rochester is probably the best offroad carb because it is
least likely to flood or hang up the float at steep angles. Is a junkyard
the only place I find one? I've heard that Holley is the worst offroad but
the easiest to adjust floats and jets--like I'll do that a lot ... The shop
where I bought my parts recommended a Carter AFB.

Opinions?

In general, is a 4 barrel carb any real benefit if I never go over 4500 rpm?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 14:04:48 EST
From: Chekerdpst
Subject: Re: Tires and wheels

BFG's all the way! My 33-12.50-15's all-terrains on my Ford -powered Jeep
lasted 50,000 miles of serious abuse. Long tread life, but not nearly as good
as the mud terrain in the mucky stuff. My tire and wheel package cost me ~800
bucks at a local Firestone dealer after some serious competitive shopping-
these guys have lots of room to move on their prices, so shop around and let
them know you are shopping around. good luck

Darren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 14:43:57 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Street Classics

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:

We have another new advertiser on our web site. As we've done
for our other advertisers we're going to make a brief announcement
for 2 days. This is our way of saying thanks to them for helping
us to expand our services to everyone here. Please show your
appreciation to them for helping to support the web site and lists
by checking out their site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/streetclassics.shtml
(This is an "anchor" page that will forward you to theirs)

Street Classics carries thousands of Obsolete and Hard-To-Find
Genuine FORD and LINCOLN/MERCURY parts and accessories for your
FOMOCO vehicles from 1950-1997.

Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...

Ken Payne
CoAdmin,
Ford Truck Enthusiasts

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 12:56:32 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Motorcraft 2150 tips

Dale wrote:
> What bothers me is that I'm now backed
>out about 5 turns from seated on the mixture screws, this
>is way past where it's supposed to be but it runs better
>there. Could be a vacuum leak, but if so I can't find it.
Yo Dale:

My idle mixture screws are set to about 4 - 4.5 turns out. The idle is
nice and smooth, and w/ that setting, I passed the smog test (non-dyno)
here in Colorado back in July.

Odd thing is, a few years back, the first time I rebuilt this carb, I had a
rough idle problem w/ the idle screws backed out about 2 turns. I took it
to a mechanic friend and he put it on the 4-gas analyzer and it showed high
HCs and CO. He adjusted it by backing out the idle screws even more,
eventually to about 4 turns, and that cured both the emissions and the idle
problem. Hmmm... Kinda counter-intuitive, eh?
If your idle mixture is too lean, a side-effect is that you'll have to bump
up the idle speed rpms to keep the engine from stumbling and stalling.

On the choke issues, does your carb have the normal/altitude lever (2
holes) on the choke plate? If so, you can experiment with changing the
actuator rod to different holes there, too. I think the ALT. setting is
farther out from the choke plate shaft, so it takes a longer rod movement
to completely close the choke. I think it compensates for less oxygen at
altitude (less choke to get rich enough for warm-up).
Anyway, good luck w/ the carb work.

On the subject of bench seats, Dale wrote:
>Has anyone out there rebuilt their own seat? Mine
>has the standard issue dip where the driver sits. The
>rest of the seat is in good condition. Is it worth the
>hassle to DIY or just pull the thing and find an
The original seat in my 1980 F250 had a similar butt sag in it. When I had
the seat out during the clutch repair, I looked at the bottom and it
appeared that at least some of the sag was caused by broken springs. Most
of the factory seat springs were pretty small gauge wire.

This seems kinda cheesy and cheap, but so far, it has worked. I used
several wire coat hangers to run across the area w/ the sag and essentially
reinforce the existing springs and replace broken ones. After hooking the
wire from the hangers firmly into the metal frame at the front and rear of
the seat, I used pliers to make zig-zags in the wire to give them tension.
Since this repair, my seat doesn't sag any more.

Happy New Year to all.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 15:05:52 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 9" Disc Conversion

I did 2 rear disk conversions to ford 9" rears.

loved both!!!


The first:
I took the stock axles and had the flange dia turned down to match the
ID of the rotors I was using, ( Granada I think ) hand made the caliper
mounting brackets, ( partly from the drum backing plates ) A lot of
work!!!!

The second:
I found that the Bearing dia and spacing from a truck 9" was similar to
the Granada ( I think the distance from the wheel bearing to the oil
seal is longer on the Granada ) Went to a wrecking yard and purchased
the calipers, rotors, mounting brkts, shields, E-break cables, etc and
every thing bolted on except I still had to turn the axle flanges down.

I have seen many kits on the market and would recommend that you go with
I complete kit. Keep in mind the fewer custom parts the better. ( break
a stock part in the middle of nowhere and you might be able to find a
replacement. break a custom part and your in deep doo doo!

Try Curry Ent. in Placentia Ca. and look in Truckin' Mag for
advertisers.

One more thing:
The break balance is tricky so you will need an adjustable proportioning
valve. And remove the back check valve from your master cylinder (
easier said then done )

Good luck

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 18:37:23 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Wheels and tires

i also have a set of BFG all tarrains on my (dare i say it?) 94 dodge, and
a set of BFG mud terrains on my 77 ford. both tires have been the best
tire invesment i have ever made. i like the muds better, and find that the
handling on the street of both sets is very similiar and excellant. i like
the muds better because of the "look" and they work better in the mucky
stuff and deeper snow, but the all terrains are better in any of those
conditions than some other more aggressive looking tires.

i have seen many people run over 50,000 miles on a set of these BFG's. i
will, from now on always buy the bfg tires for my trucks. i did find
however that the muds worn quickly at first, but got to a point where they
seemed to stop wearing. i do not know how many miles i have on mine.

if it means much, i have found (and many others too) that the BFG
all-terrain works the best on almost all the tracks i truck pull on.

BFG makes the best truck tire around (IMHO).

sleddog

- ----------
From: Tyler Wilkins[SMTP:wicowboy execpc.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 1997 10:51 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Wheels and tires

I'm assuming this is a stock F-150, not lifted that is. I would
suggest the setup that i have on my '79 F-100, and my '94 Explorer.
This setup gives great looks and traction. The combo is 31x10.5 Bfg
Radial Mud-Terrains (around $130 a piece but worth every penny!, mine
are just about to retire but have been on 3 trucks for around 65k miles)
on 15x8 American Racing 'Golden Nugget' Rims, the rims are good looking
but not too pricy, in chrome they run $48 each. This set of tires and
rims outlasted my '85 Bronco II, my '91 Explorer and are now on my '94
Explorer (No lift needed on any of these trucks). I liked this set-up
so much, when i needed tires on my F-100 last year i bought the exact
same set-up. If your looking for a slightly less aggresive set-up I
would suggest the BFG Radial All-Terrains (about $20 cheaper per tire
and SLIGHTLY quiter ride). I swear by BFG though, I would settle for
anything less. I've put them through quite a bit of abuse and they've
never let me down. I also have the same type tires (Mud-Terrains) but
sized 33x12.5R16.5 on my '73 F-250 and consider them the best money i've
put into that truck. If you have any more questions, msg me back.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 00:24:57 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: guilty, lighter side, anniversary, free web space.

Guilty!
I was just going through some old clipart used for the web site
and found a banner that some pages have used to link to us. Its
a graphic with a 1997 F150 on the left and a 1956 F100 on the
right with text in the middle.

I made this banner months ago, before I cleaned the web site of
all pictures which I could not verify the source. This banner
has one of those pictures. I'm trying to keep my side of the
street clean so I need to ask anyone who is using to the banner
to consider removing it temporarily. I'm going to replace the
picture with one I've taken myself. The new banner should be
ready by next weekend.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Lighter side...
On a lighter note, the small truck list is up and running. To
those who have not received mail from it yet want to be on it
point your browser to the web site and following the mailing
lists button. There is an on-line subscribe form.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Anniversary...
2nd week in January will be our 1st year anniversary. I would
like to invite everyone to join Peggy and I on the chat page of
the web site on Sunday, January 18th from 8pm Eastern time to
10pm Eastern time to chat with each other as a "net party" to
celebrate. Bring your memories, especially the members who were
here early on (remember the great Slick 50 flame war?). I'll
keep everyone posted and we'll find out how robust our Java chat
is then! I hope to get some stories and memories to add to our
history page.

Oh, Those of you who remember the story about the woman who cut
me off and claimed I rammed her.... her insurance company has
decided to honor my claim.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Free web space
I've secured another domain! www.fordtrucks.com (as opposed to
www.ford-trucks.com) has been secured. This is the site that
somebody offered to sell to be for $100,000! He let it lapse
and I snatched it up the day it lapsed.

Our current address will remain our home so the window stickers
will not become obsolete. In the past I've made several
statements about increasing our services as our advertising
income allowed. This is one of those services. We announced
another advertiser today and another will be announced next week.

What is the free service? On a first come first serve basis I
will be giving away small amounts of web space based off the
www.fordtrucks.com domain. As long as the theme is based on
Ford trucks and is not a commercial page it qualifies. It should
be limited in size so we can give away as many free pages as
possible. You can have as many pages for your site as you want
as long as all the clipart and html pages come in under 300k total.
In the future this size may increase. Check out a shareware
program call Animagic GIF which reduces the size of GIF files by
40% or more.

Page addresses will look like: www.fordtrucks.com/yoursitename
Once your site is functional you are welcome to register it
with search engines. Until I work out security issues I will
have to upload the site for you (just zip it and send it to me
after verifying that it works).

This is a trial run and I don't know how much of my time this is
going to take. Consider that when asking for a page that I may
change my mind. If I do reconsider, I will give everyone plenty
of warning and a forwarding page in place of your site.

The only catch: you provide a link to www.ford-trucks.com
In turn, we will provide a link to your site.... everyone wins.
www.fordtrucks.com should come on line within the next few
days. Email me with your page idea, including any current
pages you might want to move over: kpayne mindspring.com

Later,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 20:52:33 -0800
From: Tom Shay
Subject: Re: F-250 4X4 front wheel rotor machining

> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 12:04:01 -0700
> From: "woody"
> Subject: F-250 4x4 front wheel rotor machining
>
> Was browsing AutoCrafters catalog (mostly reproduction Ford PU parts,
> located in Broadway, Virginia)--their listing for '78-'79 F250 4wd brake
> rotors has this note:
>
> "Machine rotor after re-hub."
>
> This note is not printed with any other application (F-100, F-150 and F-250
> 2wd). Have asked a few locals and get conflicting views as to the
> necessity of grinding new rotors after mounting before putting them into
> service. Anyone have thoughts to offer pro or con? Is there some
> variability in the hubs that would mandate truing after a new rotor is
> mounted, or is the rotor too large in diameter to be accurately ground flat
> until it is mounted? Or does it depend on the rotor manufacturer as to
> whether it is "finished" and ready to use right out of the box?
....

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