Return-Path:
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:01:46 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #396
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, December 22 1997 Volume 01 : Number 396



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

FS: '63 4x4 Sacramento area [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY ]
Long/short rods FE [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Long/short rods FE [John MacNamara ]
Engine Paint Color [John Strauss ]
Posi rear [am14 chrysler.com]
Solid axle F250 4X4 [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Solid axle F250 4X4 [Kurt Albershardt ]
Re: Solid axle F250 4X4 [Kurt Albershardt ]
After market Stereo Speakers [Keith Srb ]
Re: carb heat;front coil springs for 76 ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Limited Slip Questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
410 [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Limited Slip Questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FS: '63 4x4 Sacramento area [Don Grossman ]
Re: carb heat;front coil springs for 76 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Engine Paint Color [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Long/short rods FE [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: 410 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: 410 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Season's Greetings ["Hogan, Tom" ]
1968 F100 driveline info, F350 4X4 supercab ["J. A. Knapper"
Motorcraft 2150 tips ["Dave Resch"]
Re: TTB front axles ["Dave Resch"]
Re: After market Stereo Speakers [Tyler Wilkins ]
Re: After market Stereo Speakers [SAR HOG ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 05:08:18 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: FS: '63 4x4 Sacramento area

Spotted this one in a freebie car rag
and thought it rare enough to pass
on to this group -

1963 1/2 ton Ford 4X4. Very clean & orig., very good
mechanically, 289 V-8, 4-spd., 389 gears. $3500
530-533-4121, 532-0189

Picture shows a '64 truck, raised a little with a small
camper on it, looks to be in great shape. Looks to
be a long bed.

Did Ford offer a 4X4 in '63, or is this cobbled together?

- - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
I spot'em you buy'em.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 08:57:08 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Long/short rods FE

Ok FOMOCO gurus!!! Help me out here, I've been building FE's since
1958 when they 1st appeared on the scene and I've never heard of
different rod lengths for the FE before.

>> You'll need "short rods". According to my book, the 360
has "long rods".

I've owned every different CID FE that FOMOCO makes except the BEST of
them - 427. I've mixed and matched them every which way possible and
have never heard this one before. Any validity to this? Tell me the
whole story. Have I just been lucky for these last 39 years, in not
pushing a piston out the block into the head or what?? I've always been
under the impression FOMOCO changed the piston pin location for
different strokes and left the rods all the same length.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 06:10:30 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Long/short rods FE

am14 chrysler.com wrote:

> Ok FOMOCO gurus!!! Help me out here, I've been building FE's since
> 1958 when they 1st appeared on the scene and I've never heard of
> different rod lengths for the FE before.
>
> >> You'll need "short rods". According to my book, the 360
> has "long rods".
>
> I've owned every different CID FE that FOMOCO makes except the BEST of
> them - 427. I've mixed and matched them every which way possible and
> have never heard this one before. Any validity to this? Tell me the
> whole story. Have I just been lucky for these last 39 years, in not
> pushing a piston out the block into the head or what?? I've always been
> under the impression FOMOCO changed the piston pin location for
> different strokes and left the rods all the same length.

Sorry Azie:

There is a 6.540" rod used in 332,352,360 & 361 Edsel engine. The short
rod is 6.488 used in the 390,406,410,427, & 428; also used in truck engines
361,391 and the 330HD engines. Hope this doesn't ruin your Xmas.

By the way just picked up a set of 427 Lemans this weekend all shotpeened,
resized with ARP bolts for $400. Boy are these things gnarly. Make the
Chevy BB rods look small in comparison. It's no wonder the GT40's finished
a 185 miles ahead of the Porsche's in 1966 Lemans. Go Detroit Iron!!

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

Thanks
John MacNamara


>
>
> Azie
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 08:06:48 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Engine Paint Color

> I have a '66 Ford F-100 with a 352 V8. What color would the engine have
>been painted from the factory. I have a '65 352 out of a Galaxie that is
>gold, is that the right color for trucks too?
>
Those had gold valve covers and air cleaner I know but not sure about the
rest of the engine. I don't think the whole thing was gold. For a time
Ford was not painting the blocks or heads and this may have continued thru
'66. What I did on my '64, which also did not have a painted block, was to
paint the block, heads and oil pan black and then use the original color
(red in my case) on the intake and valve covers. Looks real nice. Since
yours is an FE, and the intake is part of the heads, so to speak, I'd paint
it black too.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:39:39 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Posi rear

Hey Mike in Seattle: Chock front wheels so vehicle is stablized in
neutral - Jack one rear wheel off ground - Verify gear shift in Neutral
and parking brake is off - try to rotate the wheel you just lifted off
ground. If it rotates, you do not have posi - If it is impossible to
turn in either direction, then you most probably have a posi of some
description.

>>HOW CAN I TELL IF MY REAR DIFFERENTIAL IF POSI OR NOT ? THE ID # SAYS
17 AND I CAN'T FIND IT IN THE SHOP MANUAL ANYWHERE

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:49:22 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Solid axle F250 4X4

All F250 4X4's thru the 1979 model were solid axle. '80's and later
have a form of the Twin I Beam, I think.(not sure about the last couple
of years or so.)

>>Does anyone know what years Ford used the TTB IFS setup on F-250's ?

Maybe more succinctly, were there any years when an F-250 or F-250HD was
made without it? I know the F-350s have D60 front axles and would like
to
swap one of these into an early SuperCab but don't want to start with an
IFS truck if I can help it.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 07:37:38 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Solid axle F250 4X4

At 09:49 AM 12/22/97 -0500, you wrote:
>All F250 4X4's thru the 1979 model were solid axle. '80's and later
>have a form of the Twin I Beam, I think.(not sure about the last couple
>of years or so.)

I just slogged down to the local Barnes & Noble yesterday and spent a few
hours poring over the Standard Catalog of 4x4s (keep thinking I'll buy one
of these someday, but it only goes thru 1993 & I keep hoping they'll update
it)

You're right--1980 marked the first appearance of the TTB front axle (it
has a D44 pumpkin, BTW) and the years to look for appear to be 1976-1979,
'cause in 1976 there appeared two of the most useful things one can have on
a 4x4: The NP-205 t-case and front disc brakes!

At least Ford had the good sense to make the full-time NP-203 an option.
Dodge unilaterally decided that everybody needed full-time 4WD when they
put their front discs on in 1975. They gave it up in 1980.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 07:40:48 -0800
From: Kurt Albershardt
Subject: Re: Solid axle F250 4X4

BTW, the first official appearance of the SuperCab in 4x4 dress was 1978.

I say official because I've learned that trucks have a tendency to deviate
from the norm in terms of special orders alot more than cars seem to.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:19:58 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: After market Stereo Speakers

Has anyone install after market stereo speakers in their trucks? What brand. What Type. Where?


The gas Tank in my 66 is behind the seat, any suggestions for this truck?


Thanks



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:46:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: carb heat;front coil springs for 76

> Date: Sun, 21 Dec 1997 13:21:49 -0500
> From: "THE PAVIES'"
> Subject: carb heat;front coil springs for 76

> My 76 F-250 360 is missing the hot-air tube coming up from the
> exhaust manifold to the air cleaner. A set of headers replaced the
> manifold and I guess all that good stuff was tossed out with the
> original manifold (I'm a SAVER so it wasn't me!). Anybody have any
> ideas how to get the carb warmed up before starting? I have trouble
> keeping it running until the engine is warm.

Hot air is most useful at cruise to keep the ice at bay as well as
improving economy and also at idle but it should not interfere with
cold start or idle. Set the choke properly for that and it should
run smooth enough. Even hot air intake won't help in the first 60
sec or so and after that the mixture created by the choke should
suffice.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:56:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Questions

> Date: Sat, 20 Dec 1997 14:49:46 -0800
> From: Kurt Albershardt
> Subject: Re: Limited Slip Questions

> >family allows me the luxury. The torsen's would be my first choice
> >but are completely out of the question since they run $1300 last
> >time I checked. Most of the others run around $300 - $600 :-)
>
> Under what name are they marketed?
>
> I know they're expensive, but I'm still curious...

I believe they have a web site under "Torsen" but originally it was
"Torsen/Gleason" and now I guess they each have their own version
under separate names. I got a very nice info packet from Torsen
which shows the inner workings of the system. That really helped me
understand how they work. I wish TrueTrac has a site, I'd really
like to see how they work sometime, they're a lot cheaper and made by
the same company who make the Detroit locker AFAIK. :-)

All the info I have on them so far indicates that the Torsen is much
stronger than the TrueTrac but still weaker than a posi (with 4
spiders) or true locker.

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:00:29 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 410

Marko: I just had a memory flash. I think the 410 was only made in
'67. I had a '67Parklane that had one in it, and at the time (1976/77)
was doing some investigating thru the local parts gurus at the Ford
dealership and I seem to remember them telling me it was only produced
that one year. I'm old and memory sure 'ain't' one of my better
attributes anyway, but seems I remember being told this. Any way the
410 is a torquer. I'd be willing to use it bone stock with a fresh
rebuild. Just didn't want you getting 'ripped off'. That air cleaner
will fit dozens of engines.

That 9" rear end may be of value to someone with a F100/150. The wagon
would probably have a 31spline job at 3.25. No use to us guys with the
8 lugers, but there are a lot of 9 inchers around. Probably got a C6 in
it also.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:02:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Limited Slip Questions

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Limited Slip Questions
> Date: Sat, 20 Dec 1997 16:15:08 -0500

> i mentioned the torson. i had one (HAD!) in my dana 44 front for a
> few years. it was not a locker, but worked better than anything i
> ever had on the front before or since. i didn't really beleive the
> guy i bought the truck from when he said it had one, but it worked
> so good. then i completely destroyed the thing. such a pity, it
> was a wonderful diff.

How did you trash it?

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:07:18 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: FS: '63 4x4 Sacramento area

CARVER, JEFFREY D wrote:
>
> Spotted this one in a freebie car rag
> and thought it rare enough to pass
> on to this group -
>
> 1963 1/2 ton Ford 4X4. Very clean & orig., very good
> mechanically, 289 V-8, 4-spd., 389 gears. $3500
> 530-533-4121, 532-0189
>
> Picture shows a '64 truck, raised a little with a small
> camper on it, looks to be in great shape. Looks to
> be a long bed.
>
> Did Ford offer a 4X4 in '63, or is this cobbled together?

Yes Jeff, look below ;)

> - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
> I spot'em you buy'em.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-100 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:13:18 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: carb heat;front coil springs for 76

>> Date: Sun, 21 Dec 1997 13:21:49 -0500
>> From: "THE PAVIES'"
>> Subject: carb heat;front coil springs for 76
>
>> My 76 F-250 360 is missing the hot-air tube coming up from the
>> exhaust manifold to the air cleaner. A set of headers replaced the
>> manifold and I guess all that good stuff was tossed out with the
>> original manifold (I'm a SAVER so it wasn't me!). Anybody have any
>> ideas how to get the carb warmed up before starting? I have trouble
>> keeping it running until the engine is warm.

You can weld a "hood" (basically piece of sheet metal bent into a half-tube
shape) onto your headers, and run a stove pipe up from it. The better
private header makers do this.

Or, you can get a carb warmer plate/spacer. This sits between your carb and
intake and has engine coolant running thru it, keeping icing from occurring.
My F250 360 came stock with one from the factory (Alberta truck, doncha
know). I dunno where you are located, but if it's in northwest you are
basically stuck with a bit of icing cause the air is so damp and cool, yet
above freezing. If you live in cooler climates (like Alberta, the Dakotas,
or anywhere it gets 20 below) you probly use a block heater. If you use one
of those, then get the inline kind (that circulates coolant and connects to
yr heater hose) and it'll circulate warm coolant (is that an oxymoron?) thru
the above-noted spacer.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:16:52 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Engine Paint Color

My 66 410 is blue all over. What was that about black and gold? Valve
covers and air cleaner gold, everything else black? That would look pretty
cool. Where can you get the correct gold and black paint?


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:28:15 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Long/short rods FE

>I've owned every different CID FE that FOMOCO makes except the BEST of
>them - 427. I've mixed and matched them every which way possible and
>have never heard this one before. Any validity to this? Tell me the
>whole story. Have I just been lucky for these last 39 years, in not
>pushing a piston out the block into the head or what?? I've always been
>under the impression FOMOCO changed the piston pin location for
>different strokes and left the rods all the same length.
>
>Azie

Azie,

I was just quoting what the book said. I guess there are different lengths,
altho I guess 50 thou difference didn't get you into any trouble, probly
only caused you to build higher compression engines than you thought.

About my 410 and your last post: Yes, I was a little excited! The motor
came out no problem. The towtruck driver who showed up to take the car away
and lift out the engine was quite a piece of work, the insurance sticker on
his license plate said "expires November '95"!!

Speaking of work, I swear, if I owned a car I would give up my automotive
hobby: nothing beats my 4x4 for walking underneath, reclining in the engine
compartment, and seeing what you are doing. Lying under a car SUCKS!!.

I am currently pricing a complete stock rebuild. Somebody recently
suggested (I was reading a post about cams and duration that was, for my
puny brain, difficult to comprehend) that a slightly longer duration exhaust
valve than intake would be all that was necessary but I shudn't get
something too "long duration" or "high lift" as it will really be a waste of
time and money. So, what should I put in for a cam, any suggestions for a
logging-road grunter/camper, having to cruise the mountain pass highways in
order to get there?

There is still some uncertainty about my carburetor. Somebody else posted
saying it was an Autolite 4100 after all. So, here's a better description
of the thing:

1. The vacuum advance diaphragm is on the rear of the carburetor
(secondary float chamber).

2. The choke heater is on the passenger side.

3. The fuel inlet is in the front.

4. There are four barrels and it's a square bore. Weirdly, two brass
tubes from the center of the carb (look almost like accelerator pump tubes)
go into the driver's side primary and secondary barrels, not the passenger
side.

5. Rather than two large bowl vents like the Holley, I believe this one
(from my recollection) has four smaller-diameter ones.

6. The choke plate is absolutely MONSTROUS on this thing compared to my
Holley, almost twice as big.

The tag number's on the carb at home, I shud have written it down but can
post later if necessary. Is there somebody on the list who can positively
identify it? If it helps, it came off a stock 1966 Mercury
Monterey-or-something-like-that full size wagon with aforementioned 410
marauder. What is the max CFM rating on this carb? Can you get
different-strength secondary springs (i.e. stronger)? Is there a conversion
kit from exhaust-heated choke to electric? If not officially, can I buy the
parts and kinda do it myself?

Finally, here's something for somebody: The car has window cranks almost
identical to those in my '67 mercury pickup, except that instead of black
plastic knobs on the crank, the ones from the wagon are metal. Since I have
four of them, I could mail two of them to someone (Stu Varner has first
crack at them if he's listening). They didn't cost me anything so why shud
they cost you, my only condition is that they go into some kinda nice
restoration rather than "I need one in my hunting truck to replace the
vise-grips I currently use cause the last one fell off when I was bashing
bumps etc etc" kind of thing.



marko in vancouver
marko helix.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:41:50 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: 410

>Marko: I just had a memory flash. I think the 410 was only made in
>'67. I had a '67Parklane that had one in it, and at the time (1976/77)
>was doing some investigating thru the local parts gurus at the Ford
>dealership and I seem to remember them telling me it was only produced
>that one year. I'm old and memory sure 'ain't' one of my better
>attributes anyway, but seems I remember being told this. Any way the
>410 is a torquer. I'd be willing to use it bone stock with a fresh
>rebuild. Just didn't want you getting 'ripped off'. That air cleaner
>will fit dozens of engines.
>
Hey, Azie.

I just replied to another of your posts. As for this engine being a 410, I
am basically sure it is. The engine code on the door is "M" which is 410.
It is a 66. They made, according to Steve Christ, 410's in 66 and 67 only.
The block says "352" on the front so it's a 4.00" or 4.05" bore block, not a
HP or a 428. The heads are stock '66 352-60-90-410 heads. The carburetor
is original, I could tell cause the exhaust-heated choke-heater piping was
still there, in slightly rotted form. The car only had 114,000 miles on it
and the motor ran ok when I hotwired it (car hadn't moved in a coupla
years). The way I am sure it was a 410 is that the engine didn't look like
it was ever rebuilt (not even opened I would say, with the original intake
manifold gaskets still protruding at the rear I think, at least they looked
different than the newer felpro ones I put on my truck), and the balancer
pulley and flexplate were both counterweighted (detroit balanced) not
neutral-drilled. All the engine wiring (all four or so wires, two senders
and the coil/distributor) looked original and like they'd never even been
removed. The heater hose setup was stock and the fittings were never
removed from the intake. The coolant was bright green, and fairly clear.
No oil or lumps in it. The radiator was medium weight when I removed it.
The transmission was a C6 and I think was from the wreckers, as the torque
converter had been replaced and had the ubiquitous wrecker's yellow paint on
it. The rearend? I dunno, never looked at it. All I took from the engine
was the long block with intake, distributor, carburetor, and I left the
torque converter bolted to the flexplate.

Unfortunately for the car, I only kept the radio, the taillights (these were
pretty cool looking) a few Mercury medallions, the ignition switch and
glovebox/door locks (cause of the original authentic Mercury keys) the
steering wheel centerpiece (weird James-Bondish looking 3-D medallion in
there), the washer pump tank (with bust of Mercury imprinted into cover) and
the previously mentioned window cranks. The urchin took the rest with his
uninsured towing jalopy and got his 50 bucks or so from the crusher.

marko

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:41:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 410

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: 410
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:00:29 -0500

> That 9" rear end may be of value to someone with a F100/150. The
> wagon would probably have a 31spline job at 3.25. No use to us guys
> with the 8 lugers, but there are a lot of 9 inchers around. Probably
> got a C6 in it also.

I'd guess the wagon had the 28 spline axles?

Michigan Pot Hole Jumpin Bronco lover, -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 10:41:12 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Season's Greetings

To all members of the list. Thanks for a year of great information and
witty chat. I came upon this web site in August of this year. The day
I signed up to the list Ken announced we had hit 1000 members. Looking
back over the conversations of the year we have really covered a lot of
ground. From disk brake conversions to why the ammeter doesn't work,
interval wiper and cruise control transplants and endless topics about
engine selection/modification. There have also been several personal
stories unfold this year that were shared with the group.

As I reflect over what has been accomplished this year I am truly
amazed. I want to thank Ken and Peggy for taking the time to provide a
forum to support our hobby. Merry Christmas and God bless you and your
family.

To every one else who reads or contributes to the list, Thank you.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experiences, thanks for treating
everyone with respect and not ridiculing anyone, thanks for creating an
environment that fosters questions and comraderie. The tone of this
list is so open and accepting I'm proud to be a member of it. Merry
Christmas to all of you and may the coming year be full of blessings for
everyone. And may the creator of all that is FORD smile upon your
project. (Necessary content ;0) )


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 15:56:09 -0500
From: "J. A. Knapper"
Subject: 1968 F100 driveline info, F350 4X4 supercab

Thanks to everyone for the info, much appreciated. This gives me a
lot to think about. One possible cam is the Ford SVO cam, anyone used
it?

Regarding the F350 4X4 supercab, if it helps, my father had a 1977 F250
4X2 crew cab short box that we bought new.

Merry Christmas and happy New Year!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:40:27 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Motorcraft 2150 tips

>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>Subject: Re: Motorcraft Carbs
>
>one. I just wish my 2150 worked better, I'm still having problems with
idle
>and off idle performance, (misses and hesitates). It got really bad when
>the weather first got cold, I finally figured out that when I put the
>rebuild kit in last summer I had reset the choke pull-off according to the
>spec. in the carb kit. It worked OK in the summer 'cuz it didn't stay on
>the choke long. But, when it got cold the thing was so rich it would
miss.
>I reset it to about .25" and it works much better, the kit called for
.12".
Yo Dale:

Here are a couple of 2150 tuning tips for you.

When you describe a problem as "missing," I am inclined to think of
ignition problems, not carb problems. Hesitation (just at the beginning of
acceleration, especially from standing start) is a common carb problem,
though. Sometimes, hesitation is caused by injecting either too much fuel
(usually) or not enough fuel (rarely) with the accelerator pump. A
possible simple solution to the hesitation problem is to try different
accelerator pump lever settings.

The accelerator pump lever is attached to the throttle shaft just inboard
of the throttle linkage on the left side of the carb (as installed on the
engine). The stock lever has four holes in it. Moving the accelerator
pump rod to different holes affects how much fuel is injected by the
accelerator pump with each stroke (when the throttle is opened). Holes
closer to the throttle shaft (shorter lever) cause less fuel to be
injected. Holes farther away from the throttle shaft (longer lever) cause
more fuel to be injected. Even though the rebuild kit probably tells you
which pump lever setting to use for your application, you can experiment
with different settings to solve your hesitation problem. You may have to
re-bend the pump rod (from the lever to the pump on the front of the
carburetor) to get the full pump stroke or to clear an obstacle.

One more choke setting to look at is the bi-metallic spring (inside the
black or dark brown plastic cover) that controls the choke's lean/rich
setting. There should be an index mark on the plastic spring cover and a
series of marks on the metal choke housing (3 small marks, one big mark,
then three more small marks). You change the choke's lean/rich setting by
rotating the plastic spring cover, which changes the alignment of the
marks.

The emissions calibration label usually specifies the lean/rich choke
setting, but if yours is missing, you can go by the instructions in the
carb rebuild kit. So-called "index" is when the big mark on the metal
housing lines up with the mark on the plastic piece. Trying to remember
off the top of my head (truck not here at the office), the marks toward the
front of the engine (right, when you're leaning over the near fender) are
rich, toward the rear of the engine (left) are lean.

Seems like the rebuild kit instructions I had last time I rebuilt mine said
"3 rich" (third small mark to the right of the big mark) and I believe that
coincides with the emissions label on my truck. However, at altitude here
in Colorado, that makes my choke way too rich (chugging black smoke like a
diesel), so I think I have mine set to just "index" or maybe "1 rich."
Anyway, you can experiment to find a choke setting that your truck likes.

Merry Christmas.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

P.S. Truck parked in driveway while I save up for brake parts and figure
out how to convert from 2.5" shoes & drums to 3" shoes & drums. So far,
I've determined that the 3" shoes & drums will fit w/ my backing plates,
but not sure about the wheel cylinders.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:55:00 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: TTB front axles

> Does anyone know what years Ford used the TTB IFS setup on F-250's ?
>
> Maybe more succinctly, were there any years when an F-250 or F-250HD was
> made without it? I know the F-350s have D60 front axles and would like
to
> swap one of these into an early SuperCab but don't want to start with an
> IFS truck if I can help it.
Yo Kurt:

The TTB front axle was used on all full-size Broncos from 1980-on (until
they were discontinued) and all F150s from 1980 until the new '97 design
came out.

All F250s and F250HDs use the TTB system from 1980 to 1997. F250s from '79
and earlier used a Dana 44 live-axle. F250 4x4s from 1980 to 1995 were
available with either regular cab or SuperCab. In 1996-1997 model years,
F250s were also available w/ a SuperCab or crew cab (4-door) and a short
bed. (In '96-'97, there were two F250HD SuperCab options, long bed and
short bed.) These F250s still use the TTB front axle, though.

All F350s used the TTB system from 1980 to 1985. In 1986, the F350 4x4
went back to the Dana 60 live axle (so-called "monobeam" in Ford product
literature) and continued to use it until the 1997 model year. The F350
4x4 was offered only with regular cab and crew cab (4-door), never with a
SuperCab.

Hope this helps.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:36:09 -0600
From: Tyler Wilkins
Subject: Re: After market Stereo Speakers

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> Has anyone install after market stereo speakers in their trucks? What
> brand. What Type. Where?
>
> The gas Tank in my 66 is behind the seat, any suggestions for this
> truck?
>
> Thanks
>
> Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
> Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath
> Air Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
> Wheels!" +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
> --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, | |
> List removal information is on the web site. | +---------- Visit Our
> Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.