fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, December 13 1997 Volume 01 : Number 386
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Dana 44 spindle nut torque ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Dana 44 ball joints ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Rust [am14 chrysler.com]
Steering column/box questio [Jamey Moss-RA4001
Ford Manual/Book Web Site [Keith Srb ]
RE: Steering column/box questio [DC Beatty ]
[none] ["The Critic" ]
Re: Technical Service Bulletins [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: C6 question [DBrents105 ]
Re: Ford D-series: 1974-1980 ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Stick shift play [Doug Neely ]
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 07:30:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Dana 44 spindle nut torque
There've been questions on the bronco list and maybe the truck list,
can't remember but I looked it up again this morning and it's
definietly 50 - 80# for the outer nut, not 150, trust me :-)
To recap the Service manual directions:
1..torque the inner nut to 50# while turning the wheel to seat the
2..Back it off 1/4 turn and locate to nearest hole in retainer ring,
[this is just a start point, not chiseled in stone]
3..install outer nut and torque to 50 - 80#
4..check for free play (axial). It must be 0.001 - 0.010" [0.010"
would feel quite loose, 0.001" will be difficult for a novice to
differentiate between other components movement and bearings]
What this means is you need to tighten the inner nut sufficiently to
ensure seating of all the parts, especially the races I suppose if
you changed them then back off enough to ensure some play in the
bearing which will be partially taken up when you tighten the outer
nut. If there is play, remove the outer nut, rotate the inner nut
tighter by one hole on the retainer and reinstall and torque again
and check for play and keep repeating this process untill you have
essentially JUST removed any sensation of play in the bearings and
you will be well within the working requirements of the bearings :-)
Again, in the case of disk brakes it is important to keep the free
play in the bearings to a minimum but tapered roller bearings do have
to have some play, do not torque them and leave them preloaded, it
will destroy them over time and depending on the preload maybe
relatively short time :-(
BTW, I'm saving this one in my personal archives so I don't have to
look it up again :-) Guess I'll do the ball jouint one again and
save it too now that I have my sleeve tool and feel like a pro :-)
If I drink a bottle of Naval Jelly
will it get rid of the rust in my brain?
- -- Gary --
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 09:35:56 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Dana 44 ball joints
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 21:45:09 -0500
> From: "J. Oxley"
> Subject: Re: Dana 44 ball joints
> > Then comes the Dana disk/caliper to 9" rear disk brake conversion
> > I think I can do.......
> What are you goin to do for an emerg brake??
I often get behind cars going so slow I just can't stand it and blurt
out "watch out for falling anchors!" implying that to go any slower
he would have to toss out an anchor. Need I say more?
Actually they have tranny brakes for almost every tranny ever used in
trucks so it shouldn't be too hard to find one to fit the 205
transfer case?? Course when I get my full floating Currie 9" axle
and free wheeling hubs it could present a problem if I forget to lock
Another thought I've had, seriously, for parking brake, not emergency
is one of those theft proof dodads that lock your hyeraulic brakes.
Only problem I see with that is if the wheel cylinders bleed down
over night :-( Course that still doesn't give me "emergency"
If I drink a bottle of Naval Jelly
will it get rid of the rust in my brain?
Gots lots of ideas!!! Why would anyone in his right mind leave sunny
ca. for cold Me.
I know!!! To each his own.. Sounds like you hit it right when you said
in the middle" or something like that. I can't help you with rust. I
N. Al. and we don't have that to contend with. If a surface gets
nicked, sometimes we will get slight surface rust, but not like the
Good luck on your move and your new job. Personally, I do not envy
dislike cold weather very much.
I recently bought a '67 F100 that has a steering system problem. Bear with
me if you will because this is a little quirky. The seller told me the
steering box needed to be rebuilt, and it appears that it is leaking fluid
(spots on my driveway, fluid on the box). So the steering box needs to be
rebuilt, I can live with that.
The steering column is from a '79, I was told, and it has a small Grant
steering wheel. I eventually want to put back a large stock steering wheel
on it, but the combination of the '79 steering column, Grant steering wheel,
and a bench seat from a '94 F150 would not allow enough room for the large
stock steering wheel. The steering wheel and the seat are too close now,
and I need to find out what to change to allow room for the stock steering
Now for my questions:
Is the '79 steering column longer than the '67, and if so, can I rebuild the
steering box now and simply swap a '67-72 column in someday and use the same
rebuilt steering box? Or would it be easier to shorten the '79 steering
column and use the same box (BTW, what is involved in shortening a steering
If the '67 and '79 steering columns are the same length, then is it possible
that the Grant steering wheel kit extended the steering wheel out further
from the column and all I need to do is put a stock steering wheel back on?
And lastly, does anyone know if a bench seat from a '94 F150 sits further
forward or higher than the '67-72 seat?
Thanks in advance for any helpful responses. This list is a great resource.
I'm in the process of reading the archives so I can catch up with previously
discussed issues (like my broken ammeter).
Jamey Moss ra4001 email.sps.mot.com
'67 F100 w/ a 400('76) and a C6
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 11:27:51 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Ford Manual/Book Web Site
I found an interesting web site today. The site has some interesting books, service and owners manuals for Ford Vehicles. IMHO their prices are good to.
The URL is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.teleport.com/~vintageb/index.htm
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 18:33:45 -0500
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Steering column/box questio
forward or higher than the '67-72 seat?>>>>>
I can't tell you for sure about the '94 seat but I have a seat from a '78=
(I have been told), and the original '67 wheel and column, and there are
really no problems like you have mentioned. The wheel is large enough tha=
I can drive with my knees when putting on gloves, etc., but it's not an
abnormally tight fit or anything. =
Hope this helps you out. =
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 16:49:53 -0800
From: "The Critic"
Hey... I'm new to this list, so please forgive me if this has been
brought up before..
I own a 1970 F100 - it's been kind of a "beater" truck.. But I'm
changing that now.. First on me list of things to fix is the transmission,
which has only recently started to act up - it seems that after driving
about a mile it has trouble getting into 2nd gear (automatic), you can feel
it grind as it tries, and if you let off the throttle, it clicks in. I
looked up the service bulletins for the thing, and found something about
"Recurrent Sticking Valves - Automatic Transmission" - I can't read it
without paying.. Could this be the problem? If it is is it something that I
(being fairly able) could do? -If I have to take it to the dealer, how much
would it probably cost?
If it comes down to replacing the transmission, is it at all possible to
replace it with a manual? Probably not, but I thought I'd ask..
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 18:31:58 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Technical Service Bulletins
Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 23:09:51 -0800
From: Doug Neely
Subject: Stick shift play
Remove the rubber boot at the bottom of the shifter,there's a metal
the base of the stick,it unscrews and under it is a spring on top, and a
metal pin that
projects into the side of the casting and a slot at the base of the
shift stick. The
metal pin, slot,or hole could be worn,or the casting could have cracked.
piece of metal rod can sometimes fix this.Use something fairly hard,
like the....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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