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Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 03:50:41 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #385
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, December 12 1997 Volume 01 : Number 385



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: C6 question ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
65-66 Drum to Disc Conv. ["Brian Forbes" ]
rear drum/hub [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Ford D-series: 1974-1980 [Mark Barry ]
Re: Ford D-series: 1974-1980 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: ADMIN: IRC chat [Don Grossman ]
Trailer hitch [am14 chrysler.com]
C6 ? [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: ADMIN: IRC chat ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: C6 ? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Rust ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: Rust ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Stick Shift Play ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Rust [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Rust ["John F. Bauer III" ]
web sites [Jesus Cardoso ]
Re: Rust ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: ADMIN: IRC chat [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: ADMIN: IRC chat [Don Grossman ]
Re: Dana 44 ball joints ["J. Oxley" ]
Re: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide [Ken Payne
ADMIN: Resubmit your web site classifieds [Ken Payne
Rear Drums F350 ["The Zahn's" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 09:11:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C6 question

> Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:20:11 -0500
> From: "Gary L. Williamson"
> Subject: C6 question

> The transmission on my 77 truck is upset. I can put the unit in
> reverse and drive all day. However, when I shift to neutral, you
> hear the trans go to neutral, shift the trans into any forward gear
> and the trans stays in neutral. I can never get it to shift into a

Since it moves in reverse it isn't a mechanical link such as output
shaft etc. and since it is all forward gears it is probably a control
issue. If the lever on the tranny is tight and the shaft turns with
the lever with no slop then it has to be the shifter valving or
governor or the low gear clutch is completely fried. The higher
gears are contorlled by the governor so it it never moves it will
never see anything but low and if that's burned up it aint going
anywhere.

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 08:16:06 -0600
From: "Brian Forbes"
Subject: 65-66 Drum to Disc Conv.

About two years ago we did a conversion on a 66. We used parts from a 74
since the parts were still readily available. The conversion took about two
days. We opted to use a new master cylinder instead of trying to deal with
the old one. The only problem we ran into was the length of the plunge rod.
The old rod was too short and the new rod was too long for the application.
Now I'm not sure how much we took off, but it wasn't more than 1/2 in.
Since that time my truck has been stopping better than it ever did.

I dont know how the conv. would work on the earlier 60's trucks since they
used a straight axle.

Thats me $.02
Brian

66 F100 (Customizing in progress) 302Stroker/C6
65 F100 Camper Special 352/NP435

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 09:31:25 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: rear drum/hub

David R: I would say yes!!!

>>Should I have the drums balanced? Should I have each drum
w/ the hub and lug studs together balanced as unit?

I would also think that the 3" drum would fit just fine and that the
bearing races would be OK if you took it to a shop and had the lugs
pressed out/in. I personally would not try to 'beat' the old ones out,
but it might work. I would definately support the assy inside the drum
where the lug heads are, and not just turn the assy over on a
shelf/floor and start pounding. All should work without the hassle of
changing out the proportining valve and such. I'd definately try it
before I replaced it. This can be done at a later date. Would just
require bleeding again.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 09:44:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide

> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 00:21:44 -0500
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide

> If anyone wants to write detailed articles on some conversion,
> build or upgrade you've done please feel free to submit it
> to me (kpayne mindspring.com).

I may have something usefull after the hollidays. I replaced my
inner axle seals in the 44 and it still leaks around the tubes so I'm
going to strip the axle and weld the tubes all the way around and add
a gusset truss on the bottom, fully welded in. I saw one in a
wheeler rag and liked the idea. Since I have a spare axle that
doesn't leak I can always go to the trouble of swapping the carrier
and pinon to it and starting over so I'm just going to jump right in
and do it :-)

Then there's that dana 44 to 9" rear disk swap....................:-)

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 01:45:58 +1000
From: Mark Barry
Subject: Ford D-series: 1974-1980

> From: RL
>Hey what does the D series look like? I was over in Austraila two/three
>years ago and I think I saw a what looked like a 78/79 F-series Ford. But
>I really don't know. What does the D-series look like?
>Ryan
>
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
>Right hand drive rules!
> Could you define a Ford D-series to me?
>Dana
>

Hi Dana, Hi Ryan,

The Ford D-series comprises rigid Trucks of 5-16 ton g.v.m. and
Artics & Tandems (articulated, semi-trailers, B-doubles) of 10-24 ton g.v.m.
Model numbers range from D0507 to D1616, DA1007 to DA2818 & DT1711 to DT2418
It is a no-nose cab-over looking a little like a Bedford or a smaller
version of the International Havester Acco. (do you have these in the U.S.?)
My truck (D0710) is one of the babies (her name is Dinky Toy) with a 6
cylinder 300 c.i. petrol engine & 4 speed gear-box, the larger ones have
a 6 or 8 speed Cummins diesel.
She weighs in at 3.75 ton empty and 6 ton loaded.
All the Cabs look the same with huge wheel arches to accomodate the larger
20 inch rims (on mine you can work on the distributor/spark-plugs without
tilting the cab as she has 16 inch rims)
Brakes are drums all round and suspension is leaf springs front as well as back.

If any of you are really interested I can email you a JPG of a D-series!

I have a feeling that the Ford D-series is an English breed that Australia
inherited (both left-hand-drive) Anyone know??
Possibly a similar history to the Holden (Australian car developed from
General Motors in the 1950's)
Incidentally Holden developed/invented the Utility (the Ute) which is a
pick-up based on a car chassis.

Mark.
- --
*************************************************
Mark BarryMob. Phone:041 999 3966
B. S. Sound Phone:03 9531 1403
P. A. Hire Fax:03 9531 2688

New web-sitehttp://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bssound.com.au
New emailmark bssound.com.au
Also still atbssound ozemail.com.au
*************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:25:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford D-series: 1974-1980

> Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 01:45:58 +1000
> From: Mark Barry
> Subject: Ford D-series: 1974-1980

> Motors in the 1950's) Incidentally Holden developed/invented the
> Utility (the Ute) which is a pick-up based on a car chassis.

Not bloody likely! Our good ol' boys been doin that since before
anyone even thought of makin a pickup :-)

BTW, that sound about like the F-600 I had but it had a 330 V8 and
Clark 5 speed and two speed rear axle, really cool truck and I miss
having it. (don't have any use for it but it was cool)

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 09:47:59 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: ADMIN: IRC chat

Deacon wrote:
>
> To bad IRC doesn't have a spell check or I would. Sounds like fun but I
> can't spell for shet!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

Hey Deacon,

Most of the IRC channels forgive minor spelling errors ;-)
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 12:47:29 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Trailer hitch

Bill: I've found that you usually get what you pay for here. I used
to have a "reese" on one of my trucks and had extremely good luck with
it and it was tight in every direction(no play from the piece
containing the ball and the receiver). Now I have an $85 hitch on one
of my trucks. It's very sloppy. Lots of motion in the hitch. I don't
like to pull anything very heavy with it at all. If I were buying a
hitch today, I would get a "brand name" hitch. I would also check it
out for looseness prior to paying. All JMHO.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 13:02:17 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C6 ?

Gary: I think you might have a complete O'haul here. Front pump is
usually the culprit for not engaging the clutch packs, and if you've
slipped it much at all the clutches are all gone. Doesn't take long.
You might try changing the filter/fluid, but I don't think it is going
to solve your delimia.

>>The transmission on my 77 truck is upset. I can put the unit in
reverse
and drive all day. However, when I shift to neutral, you hear the trans
go to neutral, shift the trans into any forward gear and the trans stays
in neutral. I can never get it to shift into a forward gear. I've
adjusted the linkage and it didn't help. Before this problem, I could
barely go forward with the truck. It acted as if the trans was
slipping. No matter how much gas you give it, it would run to about
10-20 mph and that was tops. Now it's reverse only. I've got a few
ideas, but could use others.

Good luck.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 13:16:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: IRC chat

> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 09:47:59 -0800
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: ADMIN: IRC chat

> Hey Deacon,
>
> Most of the IRC channels forgive minor spelling errors ;-)

Yeah, as long as it doesn't look like dialog from "A Clock Work
Orange" y'all should be ok :-)

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 13:30:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C6 ?

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: C6 ?
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 13:02:17 -0500

> Gary: I think you might have a complete O'haul here. Front pump is
> usually the culprit for not engaging the clutch packs, and if you've
> slipped it much at all the clutches are all gone. Doesn't take

Got to agree with you, I forgot about the front pump with it's cast
seal rings and other stuff to leak, good point :-) I would guess it
went out slowly though so the clutches would "Probably" be gone too
for reasons you mentioned. I also believe the second gear on the C-6
only engages the second gear, not the first gear and then second like
some I've had so if you can't get second manually then we can rule
out the governor and modulator which tends to point back to the pump
or clutches but usually all the clutches don't slip at the same time
which takes us back to the pump again, shucks Azie you may be on to
something :-)

BTW, it wasn't my problem, I forgot who asked now?

If I drink a bottle of Navel Jelly
will it get rid of the rust in my brain?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:42:24 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Rust

Howdy Y'all... I'm BAAAAAAAAAAACK!!
I've been in New England since Sunday checking out a new job for the
company I work for. Like someone else said, Carol and I are thinking
about leaving the rat race to the rest of the rats. If all works out
I'll be working for California wages and living in a much less expensive
area (Maine).

Now for the Ford content. How do I keep the Raging Red Rust Monster
from making a meal of my truck? It was sold in Texas and lived in
California and just had some minor rust repair done. Should I get it
undercoated? Or just keep it clean? Someone told me when I lived in
Kansas City that the difference in California is that in KC the cars
rust from the bottom up and in CA they rust from the top down because of
the ocean. Now I'm going to Maine by the ocean and I expect it will
probably start at both ends and meet in the middle. I guess I could get
a beater and store mine for the winter but then I would have to maintain
three cars. Any ideas?


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 14:33:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rust

> From: "Hogan, Tom"
> Subject: Rust
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:42:24 -0800

> down because of the ocean. Now I'm going to Maine by the ocean and
> I expect it will probably start at both ends and meet in the middle.
> I guess I could get a beater and store mine for the winter but then
> I would have to maintain three cars. Any ideas?

I'd get ALL sheet metal repairs done and painted as necessary and
then undercoat it. The older ones had rubber inner fenders which
really did a nice job of protecting them along with the galvanizing
etc. JC whitney has these for just about any truck. I'm thinking
about putting them on the rear as well :-)

If I drink a bottle of Navel Jelly
will it get rid of the rust in my brain?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 15:23:45 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Re: Stick Shift Play

Greets-

>From what I have learned at traning sessions, a sloppy stick in gear
is result from worn shift forks on the synchronizer, (I would believe
that your trans is synchronized.) There is sometimes a bushing at
the bottom of the stick where it attaches to the shift mechanism aand
that could be worn as well.
Good Luck!


M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG

'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 12:29:01 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Rust

Ney Gary,

The older ones had rubber inner fenders which
>really did a nice job of protecting them along with the galvanizing
>etc. JC whitney has these for just about any truck. I'm thinking
>about putting them on the rear as well :-)

Can you tell me the manufacturer and part nos, maybe for a 67-72 truck?
They sound like something I could really use on my restoration '67. But
since we don't have JCWhitney up here if I knew the mfger and number I could
probably track it down some other way.


thanks,

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 16:15:34 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: Rust

If anyone has purchased these J.C.W. wheel well protectors, I (and I assume
folks in the group) would appreciate any pros/cons or do's/do not's.

I had a '78 E100 that I just loved, but the whole rear just rusted away in
the Cleveland, OH winters. I guess 19 years was darn good, but I hated to
give it up even if I had to wear a rain coat inside when it was raining
outside ...

John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

At 02:33 PM 12/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> From: "Hogan, Tom"
>> Subject: Rust
>> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:42:24 -0800
>
>> down because of the ocean. Now I'm going to Maine by the ocean and
>> I expect it will probably start at both ends and meet in the middle.
>> I guess I could get a beater and store mine for the winter but then
>> I would have to maintain three cars. Any ideas?
>
>I'd get ALL sheet metal repairs done and painted as necessary and
>then undercoat it. The older ones had rubber inner fenders which
>really did a nice job of protecting them along with the galvanizing
>etc. JC whitney has these for just about any truck. I'm thinking
>about putting them on the rear as well :-)
>
>If I drink a bottle of Navel Jelly
>will it get rid of the rust in my brain?
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| List removal information is on the web site. |
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 15:39:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: web sites

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to recommend a couple of web sites.

The first called "The Classic Truck Shop" is pretty cool even
though they cater the majority of their info towards C----y.
They have info on 6V to 12 V conversion, Power steering for
'53-'56 Fords, One wire Alternator Installations, etc. Their site is:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classic truckshop. com/index.htm


The other one is "YBlock Ford Engine Site".

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/Yblock/entry.htm

This some good stuff on the History of the Y-Block as well as
technical information on it and other Y-Block Related items.

I hope you enjoy them.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy ('63 F100, 292, T87, LWB Flareside)
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737, fax: 845-6259
Personal Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu, url: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

Keep in mind the following:
- Minds are like parachutes, they only work when there are open.
- Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.
"All of us in the world smile in the same language."



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 18:34:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rust

> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 12:29:01 -0800
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: Re: Rust

> Can you tell me the manufacturer and part nos, maybe for a 67-72
> truck? They sound like something I could really use on my
> restoration '67. But since we don't have JCWhitney up here if I
> knew the mfger and number I could probably track it down some other
> way.

I saw them in the JC whitney catalog, surely you can get the catalog
and have them shipped to you?

Here's their web address:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.catalogsite.com/Gen/JCWhitney_P1.html

Sorry I don't have the numbers or applications available, I was just
going to get some and modify them as necessary but they make them
specifically for the 78/79's front fenders for sure :-)

If I drink a bottle of Naval Jelly
will it get rid of the rust in my brain?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 12:57:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: IRC chat

- -> > Most of the IRC channels forgive minor spelling errors ;-)
- -> Yeah, as long as it doesn't look like dialog from "A Clock Work
- -> Orange" y'all should be ok :-)

Viddy this, my droogie... and check out these horrorshow boots, good
for kicking... time to troll for a little of the old ultra-violence!

"That is I, that is, Alex, and my three droogs, Pete and Georgie and
Dim..."

- - Dave "Saw That Movie Far Too Many Times" Williams


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 16:18:31 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: ADMIN: IRC chat

Dave Williams wrote:
>
> -> > Most of the IRC channels forgive minor spelling errors ;-)
> -> Yeah, as long as it doesn't look like dialog from "A Clock Work
> -> Orange" y'all should be ok :-)
>
> Viddy this, my droogie... and check out these horrorshow boots, good
> for kicking... time to troll for a little of the old ultra-violence!
>
> "That is I, that is, Alex, and my three droogs, Pete and Georgie and
> Dim..."
>
> - Dave "Saw That Movie Far Too Many Times" Williams
>

Last time I ever make a comment....
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 21:45:09 -0500
From: "J. Oxley"
Subject: Re: Dana 44 ball joints

> Then comes the Dana disk/caliper to 9" rear disk brake conversion I
> think I can do.......

What are you goin to do for an emerg brake??

OX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 21:54:40 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide

At 09:44 AM 12/11/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 00:21:44 -0500
>> From: Ken Payne
>> Subject: ADMIN: 67-72 Drum To Disc Conversion guide
>
>> If anyone wants to write detailed articles on some conversion,
>> build or upgrade you've done please feel free to submit it
>> to me (kpayne mindspring.com).
>
>I may have something usefull after the hollidays. I replaced my
>inner axle seals in the 44 and it still leaks around the tubes so I'm
>going to strip the axle and weld the tubes all the way around and add
>a gusset truss on the bottom, fully welded in. I saw one in a
>wheeler rag and liked the idea. Since I have a spare axle that
>doesn't leak I can always go to the trouble of swapping the carrier
>and pinon to it and starting over so I'm just going to jump right in
>and do it :-)
>
>Then there's that dana 44 to 9" rear disk swap....................:-)
>
>==============================
>64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
>97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)
>
>-- Gary --

Send it in whenever you're ready.

Thanks....

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 23:55:31 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Resubmit your web site classifieds

Due to a boneheaded mistake I accidently overwrite the
classifieds. Every ad submitted since December 2 will
need to be resubmitted.

Hat in hands,
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 22:38:27 -0800
From: "The Zahn's"
Subject: Rear Drums F350

To remove the two thin nuts you will need a 2 9/16" sheet metal socket with
rounded corners. You can rent one. The usually come with a 3/4" drive. I
have found that the rented ones usually have the front edge of the socket
worn out making it hard to remove the 3/8" thick nuts. If you plan on
keeping the truck you can buy one for about $20.00. If you rent if for....


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