fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, December 10 1997 Volume 01 : Number 383
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
> I'm going to check the rear brakes on my F350. I've never done
> one of
> these big guys before. How do I pull the drums? Any tips or insight
> would be appreciated.
My 73 was as simple as any other I can remember. Seems like the drum
came off separately but now that you mention it I think maybe I did
have to take the bearings out to get it off, dang, I hate gettin old!
Guess that didn't help much eh?
> You know Gary, since you got that compressor your signatures
> have gone down hill.
How's this one:
I'm Gary Peters and you're not and they're
coming to take me away HaHahehehoho!!!
- -- Gary --
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 1997 07:53:08 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: 74 F250 - U-joint question.
My 74 F250 has a center carrier bearing. What is the best way to get the drive shaft out so I can replace the U-Joints?
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
The rear section can come out first. unbolt the rear u-joint u-bults and
slide it out. Then I removed the flange from the tranny and the center
drive shaft carrier bearing I think it is pressed on to the shaft. Be
sure to note the phasing of the drive shaft and put it back the same
way. ( I.E. the way the u-jionts are in relationship to each other)
Date: Tue, 09 Dec 1997 10:02:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Drum brakes
At 08:30 AM 12/9/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> From: "Deacon"
>> Subject: Re: Drum brakes
>> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 15:43:09 -0800
>> I'm going to check the rear brakes on my F350. I've never done
>> one of
>> these big guys before. How do I pull the drums? Any tips or insight
>> would be appreciated.
>My 73 was as simple as any other I can remember. Seems like the drum
>came off separately but now that you mention it I think maybe I did
>have to take the bearings out to get it off, dang, I hate gettin old!
>Guess that didn't help much eh?
>> You know Gary, since you got that compressor your signatures
>> have gone down hill.
My71 f250 is probably the same, in that I have a dana 60 rear and you probly
Essentially you don't have to pull the wheel bolts off to remove the drum.
Undo the bolts holding the axle in place and pull out the axle. There'll be
like a big huge nut in there that you have to undo, then a bearing to take
out, then the whole tire, wheel, and drum assembly just pulls straight out.
Don't forget to pull straight or you can screw up the dust seal on the inner
bearing. IMHO these things are easier to work on than regular rear axles!
marko in vancouver
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100
Depending on the year!!! Assuming it falls within the limits of the
list ('79 latest) you have to take the whole hub/drum off. (Its a one
piece configuration). Remove the 8 small bolts holding the axle in,
remove the axle, then remove the large thin nut (2 each with a tabed
locking washer between them) and slide the sucker off in your lap,
making sure you catch the outer bearing to keep it from falling in the
trashy floor. Piece of cake!!! Heavy though!!!
>>I'm going to check the rear brakes on my F350. I've never done one of
these big guys before. How do I pull the drums? Any tips or insight
would be appreciated.
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 12:43:01 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Fuel line routing
I really don't think the # of splices from metal to flex has much
bearing. The thing that is critical is restrictions. Where is the
Elect pump located??? In tank??? On frame rail??? Distance of "pull"
vs "push" would, in my opinion, be more critical. Rubber may tend to
collapase and close off access to the fuel on the "pull" side if
ventilation to the tank is restricted. These are just some things that
come to mind to check out. I would think any kind of decent pump would
"push" the fuel more than the length of any vehicle, provided the lines
are all open. I'm not to sure how far it would "pull" fuel. Much less
than push I would think. I'm basing this on my experience with well
pumps and chemical pumps used around farming operations.
Speaking of brakes on full floaters.... Boy, this topic has yanked me right
back out of lurking (or was that working?). I have to replace my rear
drums and I think I want to put in new lug studs, too. I'm also thinking
about upgrading from 2.5" (wide) to 3" shoes & drums.
First about getting the hubs off the drums: Can you just pound the old lug
studs out w/ a hammer? Can I pound out the old lug studs and then just
pull off the hub, or should I go to a shop w/ a press? If I get the hubs
pressed off, will I have to worry about the bearing races left in the hub,
or will they be ok?
Second about balancing: I noticed that on my old drums (factory original,
I think) there appear to be balance weights tack welded on the outside of
the drum. All the new drums I've looked at don't seem to have these
weights added. Should I have the drums balanced? Should I have each drum
w/ the hub and lug studs together balanced as unit?
Third about upgrading the brakes. Since I'm replacing all the brake
hardware (drums, shoes, clips, springs, e-brake cables, everything except
the wheel cylinders) can I easily upgrade from 2.5" shoes & drums to 3"
shoes & drums? Are the shoes & drums (and clips and springs?) the only
things I have to change, or will I have to change the wheel cylinders and
maybe other components "upstream" (like the proportioning valve or
> First about getting the hubs off the drums: Can you just pound the
> old lug studs out w/ a hammer? Can I pound out the old lug studs
> and then just pull off the hub, or should I go to a shop w/ a press?
I'm really rusty on this one but since the list is slow I'll throw
some stuff out there. You can punch them out if you support the hub
while doing it but put an old nut on the end to protect the theads in
case you should need them again.
> If I get the hubs pressed off, will I have to worry about the
> bearing races left in the hub, or will they be ok?
If they were ok when you take it apart they should be fine as long
as the machine shop dosn't mess them up.
> Second about balancing: I noticed that on my old drums (factory
> original, I think) there appear to be balance weights tack welded on
> the outside of the drum. All the new drums I've looked at don't
> seem to have these weights added. Should I have the drums balanced?
> Should I have each drum w/ the hub and lug studs together balanced
> as unit?
The drums and hubs are inboard of the tire diameter and relatively
small in diameter so the impact of any out of balance here will be
minimal but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything if you want to try
> except the wheel cylinders) can I easily upgrade from 2.5" shoes &
> drums to 3" shoes & drums? Are the shoes & drums (and clips and
> springs?) the only things I have to change, or will I have to change
You may need to get new backing plates to allow the brake shoes more
room in the drums since drums usually are not offset from the hub
which means the inner edge will have to move inboard 1/2" more to
accommodate the wider shoes. I'm assuming the hubs are the same in
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