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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 03:50:28 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #382
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, December 9 1997 Volume 01 : Number 382



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: jetting a holley and weber carbs? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Put my Carb on a diet PLEASE!! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear [Sleddog ]
Drum brakes [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Drum brakes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Critical fuel flow, how critical? ["John F. Bauer III"
Re: Put my Carb on a diet PLEASE!! [SAR HOG ]
Re: Critical fuel flow, how critical? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
fenders 'n' heads [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: fenders 'n' heads [John MacNamara ]
Re: fenders 'n' heads [marko ]
Re: Drum brakes ["Deacon" ]
fenders 'n' heads [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: Drum brakes ["Bill Beyer" ]
Re: Drum brakes ["Dana" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 08:05:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: jetting a holley and weber carbs?

> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 13:35:35 -0800
> From: Ethan Emeson
> Subject: jetting a holley and weber carbs?

> Anyone ever put a bank of webers on a Ford V8?

Saw dual webbers and also dual 2300 hollies on I6's at the drags and
the ladies who drove them got high 9's and low 10's with them :-)


==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 09:40:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Put my Carb on a diet PLEASE!!

> Subject: Re: Put my Carb on a diet PLEASE!!
> From: dchez juno.com (David T Sanchez)
> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 23:50:51 EST

> I have also been having problems lately with the Holley on my 351W
> and was considering switching over to the Edelbrock. Has anyone
> encountered any problems connecting all the factory linkages, vacuum
> lines, and the factory cruise control? Also, which Edelbrock model
> did you use?

I haven't yet but the consensus is that they are better in every way.
I personally like the rochester but it was only used on one ford
application I know of and no after market company supports ford
applications for it so brackets will have to be fabricated. The
square bore edelbrock can be had with the necessary linkage from the
factory is most cases.

In my case with stick tranny and carb and no polution junk it's a no
brainer. If I want the rochester I'll get the Offy manifold and
edelbrock universal version and plug what I don't use :-)

Problems with Holleys is too much slosh off road, no metering at low
rpms and thus poor economy. To tune them you have to buy many parts
and trial and error your way to success. The edelbrock metering rods
are relitively cheap and easy to install so should be much easier to
work with IMHO :-) The only way to change the holley's mid range is
with the metering blocks and accellerator pump parts. These also
unfortunately effect the idle mixture and bear on the WOT mixture as
well as do the jets if you try to use them to augment the midrange.
With metering rods you can change the diameter of any part of the rod
to modify the mixture at any throttle position and a wide variety of
these are already available I've been told.

Holleys are mainly for WOT performance, not cruisers or off road. As
we all know they can be used anywhere and some people have varying
degrees of success tuning them but there are better choices for this
IMHO :-)

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 11:01:13 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear

woody,

for what it is worth, i can give you an opinion. first, what is a little
different pattern? if the pattern goes offf the edge of the gears it is
for sure not a good thing. but, i think that a slight deviation is ok for
limited use (such as most street 4x4 trucks.) but not for more serious use
as hard wheelin' or often use in snow, mud, etc i would be a little worried
about the pattern, the more "off" the pattern, the more i would worry.

on my puller, the last time i did the 44, i mixed ring and pinion sets, and
only had a worn out housing. i had to shim the outside of the pinion
bearing, put shims on the outside sides of the carrier bearings, and had a
little too much backlash (don't remember how much) the axle still works
(knock on wood) after many hard pulls, but i wouldn't want to take it hard
off roading. so, i did it all wrong, but it works. i really didn't have a
choice at the time.

i don't know for sure, but ASAIK the 1:1 ralationship does not hold true,
and may be different for different ratios gear sets.

it ain't much, but someone else on this list probbobly knows more than i.
i am just good at getting parts that shouldn't work to work well.

sleddog

- ----------
From: woody[SMTP:wfriesen worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 1997 9:31 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear

Has anyone set up these axles that could venture an opinion on whether worn
gears will be OK if exhibiting a little different pattern from the ideal
centered pinion/ring gear pattern? Also, my trial and error suggests a
1:1 relationship between backlash and shims needed to bring backlash to
zero before adding any bearing preload on the pinion side. Is this a
relationship I can depend on? and does the same 1:1 relationship hold for
ring gear/pinion shimming--adding .005 to the pinion requires subtracting
.005 from the ring gear side of the differential carrier to maintain the
same backlash?

Woody
wfriesen worldnet.att.net






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
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+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 11:17:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Drum brakes

Keith: I have no idea what the books or the experts say, but here is
what I've been doing since I was in my early teens (I'm 60 now).
Tighten the sucker down till you have to strain to turn the wheel,
then back it off approx 1 round. Most of the time you will still have
slight drag in some portion of the 360degrees of revolution. Reason to
tighten the sucker up so tight to begin with is to 'center' the shoes
to the drum. I've always had real good luck with this method.

Good luck.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 14:21:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Setting up Dana 44 pinion/ring gear
> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 11:01:13 -0500

> mud, etc i would be a little worried about the pattern, the more
> "off" the pattern, the more i would worry.

It's hard to get a "perfect" pattern but if it's long and centered it
should work I think. That' s my understanding of it anyway :-)

> on my puller, the last time i did the 44, i mixed ring and pinion
> sets, and only had a worn out housing. i had to shim the outside of

The reason we don't mix sets is that the gears are machine lapped at
the factory and the pinion depth is set from parameters on the
lapping machine and stamped into the pinion. They are accuratetly
cut before lapping but have minor variations in the teeth and surface
blemishes after hardening which would cause accellerated wear if not
lapped. When you mix them it's as though they were never lapped and
so will wear much faster. They will still do the job, for a while,
but not as long is if properly set up :-) The reason the backlash
and pinion depth are so important is these two parameters place the
two gears in the same relative positions to each other they were in
in the lapping machine. Theoretically if you get these right the
pattern will also be right.


==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 14:24:45 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Drum brakes

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: Drum brakes
> Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 11:17:19 -0500

> Reason to tighten the sucker up so tight to begin with is to
> 'center' the shoes to the drum. I've always had real good luck with
> this method.

I used to do that till they came out with self adjusting brakes and
it became a pain to do. Now I have someone stomp the pedal (or do it
myself) a few times to accomplish the same thing and then I don't
have to back them out :-)

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 14:43:58 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Critical fuel flow, how critical?

I hate to waste the list's time with newbie type questions, but it has been
at bit slow, so I would like to throw this one out there:

How critical is the fuel flow from tank to carb (in my case, 77 460/C6,
Holley 0-80451 (always get the numbers confused), dual tanks, electric fuel
pump (manual totally removed)? In diagnosis of an engine stalling effect on
highway after 15-20mins of driving, I just traced the fuel lines and have
noticed quite a few tubing to pipe back to tubing connections with mild
bends and twists and wonder how much reduced flow/pressure is lost with this
setup? Or maybe put another way, does one have to be very critical of fuel
lines or can they pretty much just go any which way as long as they connect
the tank to the pump to the carb?

My limited experience says their not that sensitive, but maybe I'm a bit
lacking on this one?

John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 14:46:00 EST
From: SAR HOG
Subject: Re: Put my Carb on a diet PLEASE!!

In a message dated 97-12-08 00:42:28 EST, you write:


was considering switching over to the Edelbrock. Has anyone encountered
any problems connecting all the factory linkages, vacuum lines, and the
factory cruise control? Also, which Edelbrock model did you use?

Dave Sanchez
dchez juno.com >>

I just switched from a Holley to an Edelbrock a few weeks ago, (model 1407,
750cfm, manual choke). The PCV valve hose connects to the front of the carb
on the Edelbrock instead of the rear, like on the Holley so I had to get a
longer hose. Also my air cleaner base kinda drops down so I had to get a
spacer to put between them. Other than that, I had no problem. I don't have
a kickdown linkage to worry about.

John Z
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 15:17:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Critical fuel flow, how critical?

> Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 14:43:58 -0500
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: Critical fuel flow, how critical?

> How critical is the fuel flow from tank to carb (in my case, 77
> 460/C6, Holley 0-80451 (always get the numbers confused), dual
> tanks, electric fuel pump (manual totally removed)? In diagnosis of

You should have no less than 3/8" line from the tank all the way to
the carb. If you do any serious thrashing 1/2" wouldn't hurt but the
bends and connections shouldn't matter too much as long as they are
clean and properly done. You may have a tank pickup tube filer
(sock) problem or other in line filter or clogged orifice in the
float needle and seat assy so fuel doens't quite flow fast enough.
There may also be a filter in the inlet to the carb.

==============================
64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 13:26:48 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: fenders 'n' heads

I am thinking about doing a deal on an engine from a guy in central
California who is apparently some sort of very good engine builder. His
name is David Nettles. Does anybody know if this guy is as good as he
claims (30 years in the business etc). I don't live anywhere near there but
if he does as good work as he says he does, I'd like to buy an engine.
Don't worry, I will go down and check it out myself so long as, first, I
don't get huge negative feedback from the list.

TIA for your help, all.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 13:30:47 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: fenders 'n' heads

marko maryniak wrote:

> I am thinking about doing a deal on an engine from a guy in central
> California who is apparently some sort of very good engine builder. His
> name is David Nettles. Does anybody know if this guy is as good as he
> claims (30 years in the business etc). I don't live anywhere near there but
> if he does as good work as he says he does, I'd like to buy an engine.
> Don't worry, I will go down and check it out myself so long as, first, I
> don't get huge negative feedback from the list.
>

Marko: I live in so cal but I've never heard the name. Do you have his shops'
name and location(town)?

Thanks
John

> TIA for your help, all.
>
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71 f250 4x4
> 67 merc m100
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 15:50:32 -0800
From: marko
Subject: Re: fenders 'n' heads

At 01:30 PM 12/8/97 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
>marko maryniak wrote:
>
>> I am thinking about doing a deal on an engine from a guy in central
>> California who is apparently some sort of very good engine builder. His
>> name is David Nettles. Does anybody know if this guy is as good as he
>> claims (30 years in the business etc). I don't live anywhere near there but
>> if he does as good work as he says he does, I'd like to buy an engine.
>> Don't worry, I will go down and check it out myself so long as, first, I
>> don't get huge negative feedback from the list.
>>
>
>Marko: I live in so cal but I've never heard the name. Do you have his shops'
>name and location(town)?
>
>Thanks
>John
>
>> TIA for your help, all.
>>
>> marko in vancouver
>> marko helix.net
>> 71 f250 4x4
>> 67 merc m100

Fenders 'n' Heads
4125 W. Mineral King Ave. #184
Visalia, Ca.93277
USA

Call "Dave" at 209-625-4563 or 209-734-2764

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 15:43:09 -0800
From: "Deacon"
Subject: Re: Drum brakes

>> Reason to tighten the sucker up so tight to begin with is to
>> 'center' the shoes to the drum. I've always had real good luck with
>> this method.
>
>I used to do that till they came out with self adjusting brakes and
>it became a pain to do. Now I have someone stomp the pedal (or do it
>myself) a few times to accomplish the same thing and then I don't
>have to back them out :-)

When I'm putting the drum back on, I try and adjust them out to the
point I can still get the drum on, but doesn't need a lot of adjustment.
I'm going to check the rear brakes on my F350. I've never done one of
these big guys before. How do I pull the drums? Any tips or insight would be
appreciated.

>==============================
>64 Plug Gapper, 78 PU & Bronco
>97 barn, 97 compressor (50 amp breaker)

You know Gary, since you got that compressor your signatures have gone
down hill. I think it may have something to do with the dangers of being to
close to high power lines! :) If you can't come up with good ones (i.e.
slow wit, Bronco brakes) sell that compressor! You'll know it's gone to far
when it's "I'm Gary Peters and your not". ;~)


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 18:19:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: fenders 'n' heads

- -> I am thinking about doing a deal on an engine from a guy in central
- -> California who is apparently some sort of very good engine builder.
...
- -> marko in vancouver

Jeez, they don't have engine builders in British Columbia?

What kind of motor are you looking for?

====dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 19:27:00 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Drum brakes

Welcome to the wonderful world of full floating axles! After removing the
tire/wheel, you will need to pull the axles. This is accomplished by
removing the drive flanges on the outside of the hub and pulling the axle
out. Watch out for the bearings in the drum when you remove it from the
spindle. Good luck!

- ----------
> From: Deacon
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Drum brakes
> Date: Monday, December 08, 1997 3:43 PM

> I'm going to check the rear brakes on my F350. I've never done one of
> these big guys before. How do I pull the drums? Any tips or insight would
be
> appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 20:26:12 -0800
From: "Dana"
Subject: Re: Drum brakes

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Beyer
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Monday, December 08, 1997 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: Drum brakes


>Welcome to the wonderful world of full floating axles! After removing the
>tire/wheel, you will need to pull the axles. This is accomplished by
>removing the drive flanges on the outside of the hub and pulling the axle
>out. Watch out for the bearings in the drum when you remove it from the
>spindle. Good luck!....


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