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Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 14:25:08 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #375
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, December 2 1997 Volume 01 : Number 375



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Ghost Bronco ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Aftermarket elec. fuel pump noise? ["John F. Bauer III"
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: 1969 f350 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Aftermarket elec. fuel pump noise? ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Please give me a HELP!!!!! [Thierry Delattre ]
Ford Red Book [John Strauss ]
Is it a '64? '65? '66? [John Strauss ]
Re: Ford Red Book ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Ford Red Book ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
460 sTARVING PROBLEM [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Is it a '64? '65? '66? [Dennis Pearson ]
Re: ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions [danadeb pacbell.net]
Bronco maintenence mania ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions ["deacon" ]
Re: Is it a '64? '65? '66? [Keith Srb ]
Re: cacinfo email requests ["Dave Resch"]
Re: 77 Ford 460 ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Cruise control ["Hogan, Tom" ]
RE square headlights and 1978 ["Hogan, Tom" ]
Re: RE square headlights and 1978 [John MacNamara ]
Differnce between Durasparks I&II ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Ford Red Book ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Re: Differnce between Durasparks I&II ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 06:58:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark

> From: shoman p3.net
> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 21:24:31 -0800
> Subject: Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark

> I used the blue strain relief module....I used an 82 lincoln 302
> distrubutor......Wired from Faq on net site...I did use the correct
> coil...and did change to the large cap and wires.... joe

If the module is used and the mag pickup is used one of these could
be the problem. The mag pickup needs to be pretty good to be
consistant and the module has several circuits in it which can get
crossed up or fail. I've had both go bad at one time or another, in
one case causing the starter to run on due to crossing 12v with 6v
run circuit in the module which was sufficient to hold the start
relay on.

A used coil can also be bad but they usually don't act up till hot.
Get a multimeter and the chiltons or Haynes manual for late 70's
vintage ford anything and measure the resistance and voltages they
mention there to check the module and pickup. The coil is the
cheapest component so if this checks out Ok maybe replace the coil??
:-)

One other possibility, is the cap new? if not...................:-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 07:28:10 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ghost Bronco

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 20:15:00 -0800
> From: "Paul G."
> Subject: Ghost Bronco

> I have a '79 Bronco with 400/Auto. It doesn't run smooth unless the
> driver's door is opened enough for the light to come on.
>
> Does anyone know why? Note: This does NOT work with the
> passenger's door. This just started a few months ago, and I can't
> find a problem with timing, plugs, wires, etc. etc.

Door switches are in parallel circuits so they are independent from
each other since they are normally open switches so the driver door
could be influencing something independently. Since the dome light
is fused it's not likely a short would be sufficient to interfere
with ignition unless the ignition was in some way hooked to the same
source terminal which should not be the case but you never know what
some of these "Truck Owners" might do :-)

Older trucks wiring may be dried out and cracked so that if bundles
together at some point a severed or partially severed ignition wire
could be picking up power from a shorted lighting wire in the bundle.
This is a way out unlikely possibility but anything is possible :-)

Another possibility is a bad battery ground which finds a ground
through the lights in some odd way. I've seen this one before. You
should see a starter load going through 18 ga wire, SMMMMOKKKKINNNN!
:-)


I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:57:47 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Aftermarket elec. fuel pump noise?

Just a quick one if someone has some insight ...

Recently replaced manual fuel pump on 77 460/C6 van with an electric pump
from a local NAPA parts place to reduce heat transfer from block to fuel
line and potential poor old pump performance. I would have thought the pump
would make the average "whirrrrrr" type noise when enguaged, but it makes a
rather loud clicking/clattering type noise. It does appear to move fuel
(wanted it slowly fill a glass jar) and sometimes the noise slowly goes
quiet with no noted pattern. Anyone ever try this and get different results?

John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 08:12:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

> From: A66f100 aol.com
> Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 19:53:13 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

> Sounds like your carb is icing up. Depends on what part of the U.S.
> you live in. If you live in a colder climate the extended driving

It's interesting that you noted this. I've had problems with small
engines doing this but never a V8 in my whole life. Not sure why
except that maybe V8's tend to run richer and so have their own
version of anti-icing. I do run manifold heat with intake vacuum
control on my 460 because it helps the economy and keeps the ice
gremlin away but I've run many V8's without heat and never had a
problem??

Anyone else ever have icing in a V8?

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 08:17:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 1969 f350

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:18:45 -0500
> From: Bruce Hart
> Subject: 1969 f350

> I'm new to the list,hello to all.I have a 69/f350 flatbed with an
> I-6 and 4 speed hooked to a 455(something like that)rear end that I
> use to pull my horse trailer and I would like to get more torque out
> of the engine.If anyone has any experience or knows the best route
> to take please let me know.Also where can I buy a ford service
> manual for 69 trucks. Thanks-Bruce

Actually I have one but not sure if I want to keep it yet. Try Faxon
Automotive Books. Ask the SVO guys and get the list of book sellers
they have and then please post it to the list so I can have a copy as
well :-) I wrote it down once and lost the paper it was on, Darn it!
:-( Come to think of it I think it was one of the sellers that gave
me the list?? Can't remember for sure but it was like 20 names and
phone numbers or so :-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 08:42:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Aftermarket elec. fuel pump noise?

> Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:57:47 -0500
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: Aftermarket elec. fuel pump noise?

> have thought the pump would make the average "whirrrrrr" type noise
> when enguaged, but it makes a rather loud clicking/clattering type
> noise. It does appear to move fuel (wanted it slowly fill a glass
> jar) and sometimes the noise slowly goes quiet with no noted
> pattern. Anyone ever try this and get different results?

There are rotary pumps but most are diaphram, reciprocating pumps
which are very noisy if you don't insulate them from the frame with
rubber. The sound changes when the float needle closes and
pressurizes the line. I routed a steel line to the fire wall on
purpose so I could hear when the pump was working. The tubing
resonates against the fire wall. My family doesn't like it but it
doesn't bother me as much as the wind and tire noise.

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:56:32 -0500
From: Thierry Delattre
Subject: Please give me a HELP!!!!!

I Need help to clarify what i've got...

>From the seller its a ford F100 1979

On the rear of the door and on the door post there isn't any VIN.. on
the door there are two hole so i imagine it's not the original door or
the original VIN whas removed...

I have to say that according to the papers i have, the truck was
inspected by
the immatriculation bureau 2 years ago and they putted ind they're VIN
which reads:

F104GA85230

in the engine compartement attached on the cab in the center there was
this bunch of numbers:

ROT 3678 Z 82
W 1HA LONG
F10 BJ5169 4B R

on the valve cover we can read:

G366AA C80
5 566B R0
S25

and on the automatic tranny:

PGD AC8 L24
D9 UP BB 042613

on the carb:

AS2
EOTE DA

So if someone can tell me how to put all those numbers together...

On the engine, the ID tag was obviously removed...
The drive axle seems to be a DANA (i assume this because the filler plug
is on the back plate).And there's a number under it wich reads A 31477
It would be kind if someone tells me how to identify this part too.

You have to understand that the truck is in pretty bad shape and there's
oil and grease everywhere.

I plan to change the front and the rear main oil seal all the gaskets
and change the piston rings but keep the engine stock. I'll also do the
head job (seals and springs...)

Anoter problem wich needs advice, the brake pedal doesn't come back and
all the fluids level are
cheked??? Can it be a booster problem??? Master cylinder problem????

I also have another debate,

In my 1979 F100, i have a 302 wich needs heads restoration (grinding &
gaskets etc...) and all the gaskets are leaking and i need to change the
front and rear oil seal and throw in new rings...The compression reads
105 105 130 140 115 145 115 130

But i can have a 351W ( wich is sitting in a barn since the last 4 or 5
years) for free... The owner gives it to me if i buy the body parts
he has: 2 fenders 2 complete doors 1 hood and a radiator saddle. He
wants
200$ canadian for that. Does it worth it????
And should i go on rebuilding the 351 or th 302. Her the gas is pretty
expensive, 60 cents a litre so 2.25$ a gallon.... But i like the Humppf
it would give to my baby... And since the 351 comes from a grand
marquis, will the exhaust manifold of my 302 work on it???

But i have the winter to think about it, it begins to be cold here in
Quebec, Canada and the snow as arrived.


Thank you very Much!!!

Thierry Delattre
thierry hybride.com

My web site is http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www3.sympatico.ca/mjtd
It's mostly in french but my Ford page is bilingual

F100 Wanna be on the road again...


- --
Thierry Delattre
thierry hybride.com
www.hybride.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 08:06:40 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Ford Red Book

>And were do I find this little marvel of the printed texted?
>
Call Classic Motorbooks at 800.826.6600.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 08:13:28 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Is it a '64? '65? '66?

>I have a 1965 Ford stepside pickup, or at least I thought I did.
>
>Today while visiting a restorer's heaven (junk yard), I was told that I
>had a 64 or 66, but not a 65!! 1965 was the year that I got married and I
want >a 65!!!
>
>The speedometer cluster in my truck is round and I was told that the
>cluster in a 65 is oblong, 64 and 66 are round.
>
Whoever told you this needs to stick to GM products. The 1964 had the
round speedo only. 1965 had either, depending on trim level. If yours is
not a CC, then round is probably correct. I have been told the round also
came on some '66 models but I personally have never seen one. Also if your
truck has Twin-I-Beam then it is not a '64 unless somebody has done some
pretty heavy swapping which I doubt.

>I need help to make sure, is there any way yall could tell from the vin?
>
Sure. Email it to me and I'll decode it no prob.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 09:22:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford Red Book

> From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
> Subject: Re: Ford Red Book
> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 19:14:44 PST

> >ISBN# 0-87938-789-0
> >
> >Motorbooks International
> > Ford Pickup
> > Red Book
> >
> >By Peter C. Sessler
>
> And were do I find this little marvel of the printed texted?

Can't remember where we got them, someone on the list found a seller
and posted it and we all went there for $10 or so. It's on the not
in print list now so they had them on sale. Maybe someone will
remember where we got them and post it again?

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 09:36:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford Red Book

> Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 08:06:40 -0600
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: Ford Red Book

> >And were do I find this little marvel of the printed texted?
> >
> Call Classic Motorbooks at 800.826.6600.

That's the one all right, thanks John, I couldn't remember :-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 09:47:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 460 sTARVING PROBLEM

SOUNDS LIKE A RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL INLET TO ME. (Getting some gas,
but not sufficient for high speed).

>> then started noticing
the engine would start to loose power. Releasing the gas pedal for a
second
and then reappling would allow the engine to "catch up" and continue to
perform normally for about 30 seconds and then this process would
repeat.
Each time, unable to effectively get back to 55mph speed. Pulled over,
let
engine idle, all appears normal again. Get back on highway, works
great for
about 2 mins, starts all over again. On the way back home, the engine
actually died. I let it sit for about 5 mins., started the fuel pump
first
for about 10 seconds, then started the engine, then everything ran fine
for
about 5 mins, then poor performance repeated.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:21:14 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark

Make sure that the two wires that go to the dist are not reversed. ( I
know that there are three but one is only a ground ) Books I have say
that reversing the two wires will do something to the "phasing" and will
cause problems. ( I think it is the orange and purple wires )


Below is the instructions from the following site:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html


"This ignition system is a popular swap into earlier cars and trucks.
Wiring it up is quite straightforward. This is most easily accomplished
by making a trip to your favorite junkyard and rounding up all the
parts. Be sure to get the wiring harnesses connecting the module,
distributor, and coil, as well as the male end of the 2-pin connector
and some length of its wires. Note that the colors of the wires shown in
the diagram below are at the module itself. The wires in the harness
tend to be different colors on different cars and years.
Power is supplied to the BATT or + coil terminal in the same fashion as
the older breaker point ignition. Under normal "run" conditions, power
comes from the key switch through a length of resistance wire (0.8 to
1.6 ohms). This wire is normally pink and is found under the dash.
During cranking, this resistance is bypassed by a wire from the "I"
terminal on the starter relay. In most applications, the wire that used
to power the coil can power the new coil. The system is grounded through
the black wire in the harness to a point inside the distributor. Only
one new connection is required. The module receives its power through
the red wire in the 2-pin connector. This must come from the key switch
terminal that is "hot in start or run". If your car has an idle
positioner solenoid, the wire powering that may be used to power the
module. Optionally, but a good idea, the white wire in the 2-pin
connector is connected to the "S" terminal on the starter relay. This is
used as a cranking indicator to the module, to retard the timing
slightly to ease the load on the starter motor. Use the factory harness
for the rest of the wires. The green wire runs from the module to the
TACH or minus coil terminal. This is where you can connect a normal
tachometer. The orange and purple wires from the module run to the
pickup inside the distributor."



Be sure that the wire that is on the dist matches the wire on the module
the wiring harness may not be correct. also be sure that the ground
screw is tight inside the dist. Optionally add a ground to the module
itself if it is not bolted down to a good ground.


If you still have the old cap, rotor and coil try them!


Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:19:05 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: Is it a '64? '65? '66?

Thanks for your message at 08:13 AM 12/2/97 -0600, John Strauss. Your
message was:
I have been told the round also
>came on some '66 models but I personally have never seen one. Also if your
>truck has Twin-I-Beam then it is not a '64 unless somebody has done some
>pretty heavy swapping which I doubt.
>


I just purchased '66 with the round instruments. But, then again I'm going
by the grill. I haven't even driven it home, yet, which I guess I'll do
with a swapped glove box door and license plates from one of my '62s.
Should get me home (back roads in rural SW Washington State). Then I can
start asking VIN questions (or maybe get the book).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 07:26:04 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions

Ken Payne wrote:
>

> Also, I'm putting together a 67-79 disc brake upgrade FAQ.

Could someone send me the URL to the above mentioned FAQ with the repair
items in it I can't seem to find it!

Thanks Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 10:32:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Bronco maintenence mania

Well, I mentioned this to the bronco list yesterday so will be brief.
Since this weekend I now have both sides ball joints replaced, both
rotor dust shields (new from ford), new pass side axle u-joint
(axle's stretched and needs replaced), new diff seals in the dana 44,
new pass side caliper and all nuts and bolts cleaned up and
anti-seized.

Last night finished lubing all zerks in front end and bled brakes.
Now my brakes are even with no pull but I have to pump then up to get
then to work well, still mushy and pass side disk is squealing. I've
never had that problem before but I've never bought a rebuilt caliper
before either. Could the piston be so loose enough that it vibrates
when activated? Going to check it tonight to make sure I didn't
forget anything.

One thing about this bronco is that the calipers are very loose
fitting even with the flat springs and wedges in place. I can
actually move them radially in the bracket. I've never seen any this
loose before and suspect this is why I have to pump them since the
looseness allows bumps to knock the piston back loosening the fit to
the rotor after each application etc..

I may try to install a second flat spring in the top tonight but I
don't think the features will match up well enough to keep it
together safely, we'll see. The other alternative is to weld them up
and re machine the dove tails but that's a last resort. Here's a
case where a larger master cylinder piston could actually make a
worth while difference but it would still be a bandaid and ultimate
pedal pressure would still be higher so I think I'll just fix it
right :-)


I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 07:46:37 -0800
From: "deacon"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions

>Ken Payne wrote:
>>
>
>> Also, I'm putting together a 67-79 disc brake upgrade FAQ.
>
>Could someone send me the URL to the above mentioned FAQ with the repair
>items in it I can't seem to find it!
>
>Thanks Dana

Give him a chance Dana. Don't you know they have a lot and admin to do?
Some people get into arguments with their providers and get kicked off. That
makes Ken get a bunch of e-mail bounced back as undeliverable. Then the
inconsiderate user hooks back up changing a couple letters in his user name
and rejoins the list.
So, did you miss me? :)

Deacon Blues deacnblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage, when it's back up.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deaconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 09:17:30 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: Is it a '64? '65? '66?

At 08:13 AM 12/2/97 -0600, you wrote:

>>I have a 1965 Ford stepside pickup, or at least I thought I did.

>>

>>Today while visiting a restorer's heaven (junk yard), I was told that I

>>had a 64 or 66, but not a 65!! 1965 was the year that I got married and I

>want >a 65!!!

>>

>>The speedometer cluster in my truck is round and I was told that the

>>cluster in a 65 is oblong, 64 and 66 are round.

>>

>Whoever told you this needs to stick to GM products. The 1964 had the

>round speedo only. 1965 had either, depending on trim level. If yours is

>not a CC, then round is probably correct. I have been told the round also

>came on some '66 models but I personally have never seen one.


My 66 F100 has the round Speedometer Cluster. It is the basic, no frills model built in Feb 1966.


> Also if your

>truck has Twin-I-Beam then it is not a '64 unless somebody has done some

>pretty heavy swapping which I doubt.

>

>>I need help to make sure, is there any way yall could tell from the vin?

>>

>Sure. Email it to me and I'll decode it no prob.

>

>

> _

> _| ~~. John Strauss

> \, _} jstrauss inetport.com

> \( Texas Fight!

>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+

>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |

>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|

>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

>

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

Mesa, AZ

1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi
5-Speed.

1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.

1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long
Box, Style Side.

1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Model 1100 1bbl carb, Oil Bath Air
Cleaner, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.

My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 09:42:53 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: cacinfo email requests

>>GM has a service that if provided a VIN number, for a fee they
>>will send you out a line ticket and other information about your
>>vehicle.

>>Does Ford offer anything like that, and if so how do I contact
>>them.
>Allen,
> Send them your VIN via email to cacinfo ford.com and
>you will get a "build sheet". They only do them after a certain
>year model but I don't remember what it is. I know I couldn't get
>the build sheet for my 1964 CC.
Yo Dudes:

FYI, I tried emailing the cacinfo ford.com to request build info for my
1980 F250 a couple of months back, and here is the response I received:

>Hello XXXXXX,
>
>We have received your e-mail. At this time we are not equipped to
>answer questions via the internet.
>
>However, please contact our Customer Assistance Center toll-free at
>1-800-392-3673 (FORD) or write to us at:
>
> Ford Motor Company
> Customer Assistance Center
> 300 Renaissance Center
> P.O. Box 43360
> Detroit MI 48243
>
>Thank you for contacting Ford.
I was kinda bummed. Maybe they're understaffed. Maybe they're all busy
answering questions about why the schmucks in Ford marketing/management
won't offer a 4-valve DOHC 5.4L engine or at least an old pushrod 351W in a
new Cobra Mustang so it would have a fighting chance going up against a
cheesy C*maro or F*rebird that costs $10K less... but I digress.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 10:36:45 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Re: 77 Ford 460

The electronic ignition module has 2 sides to it--Run and Start. Twice
I've seen one side fail and the other works fine. A 76 F350 lost the
Start side and the engine would not start until you released the key.
The start procedure was to get the motor spinning with the started and
then release the key and the ignition would kick in and hopefully it
would start. On a 76 LTD I saw the Run side fail. We were on the
freeway middle of nowhere. The driver was a mechanic and knew about the
module. He put the shifter into neutral and started the car. Then he
dropped it into drive. When the shifter hit drive the neutral safety
switch cut in and cut the starter out of the circuit. We drove home on
the start side of the module.

You might try this if you have an automatic transmission and the neutral
safety switch works (starter will not engage with the car in drive).
When the truck acts up turn the key to the start position. If it runs
better then it is probably the module.

Good luck.

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)




- ------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 21:51:32 -0000
From: "mei home.com"
Subject: Re: 77 Ford 460

I think you are barking up the wrong tree check your ignition--you have
electric I assume and this sounds like your control module--classic
symptoms runs 15 min. stalls 15 later runs then stalls then runs then no

more run--

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 10:39:57 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Cruise control

Does anyone know what the difference is between a 76 turn signal switch
and a 78-79? I know the wiring harnes is shorter in the 78-79 but will
the 78-79 switch itself mount on a 76 column?

TIA

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 10:49:34 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE square headlights and 1978

I thought that the square headlights went with the new one piece grille
insert and that round headlights were with the older split plastic
inserts. If this is true and that square headlights were on some 78's
depending on trim level then could a 78 have either the one piece or the
two piece grille? I seem to remember that there were two piece grilles
that were shaped like the 76s but were blacked out would these be the 78
low trim level grille?

I'm soooo confuuuuuused!!!!

This is what I'm pretty sure of:
73honeycomb (small opening) two piece grille
74,75?Same as 73?
76larger 6 hole two piece grille (the best looking IMHO)
77same as 76 ?different color?
78-79one piece ?Shark mouth? grille (what WOULD you call it? :0)

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

_________________________________________________
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 03:57:08 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: square headlights and 1978

I thought the ONLY year Ford put square headlights in was 1979...not 78.
Maybe I am really wrong!! Has been known to happen on many
occasions...so sezs my wife!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 12:20:54 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: RE square headlights and 1978

Hogan, Tom wrote:

> I thought that the square headlights went with the new one piece grille
> insert and that round headlights were with the older split plastic
> inserts.

Not true, on the 78's there is a plastic housing that fits into the grill
around the headlight and it can either accommodate a square on round
headlight. As previously stated, the 78's came with both round (early
models) and square(later models)

> If this is true and that square headlights were on some 78's
> depending on trim level then could a 78 have either the one piece or the
> two piece grille? I seem to remember that there were two piece grilles
> that were shaped like the 76s but were blacked out would these be the 78
> low trim level grille?
>
> I'm soooo confuuuuuused!!!!
>
> This is what I'm pretty sure of:
> 73 honeycomb (small opening) two piece grille
> 74,75 ?Same as 73?
> 76 larger 6 hole two piece grille (the best looking IMHO)
> 77 same as 76 ?different color?
> 78-79 one piece ?Shark mouth? grille (what WOULD you call it? :0)
>
> Tom H
> San Francisco, California
> 76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
> 96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)
>
> _________________________________________________
> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 03:57:08 -0800
> From: Stuart Varner
> Subject: square headlights and 1978
>
> I thought the ONLY year Ford put square headlights in was 1979...not 78.
> Maybe I am really wrong!! Has been known to happen on many
> occasions...so sezs my wife!
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 15:33:10 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Differnce between Durasparks I&II

Hello all!!

Can anyone tell me if there are differences between the distributors,
modules, and coils on Duraspark I and Duraspark II. I have a 1977 Ford Truck
service manual in front of me and in the ignition chapter, it talks
of Duraspark II, but nothing of Duraspark I. I guess what I am
leading to is that I have (Ibelieve) the D-Spark I (no ballast
resistor). Other than the no Ballast resistor, I don't know of any
differences between the two systems. And the '77 shop manual doesn't
say anything about D-Spark I. The thing I want to do is get the module, harnesses, and
coil off another '77 w/ D-Spark II without changing distributor
(because it's new.)

Will this help? The old girl is a '77 F150 w/ the 400.



M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG

'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 12:52:30 PST
From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
Subject: Re: Ford Red Book

>>And were do I find this little marvel of the printed texted?
>>
>Call Classic Motorbooks at 800.826.6600.
>

John,
Thanks for the info.
dopie
parts chimp by trade

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 16:24:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Differnce between Durasparks I&II

> From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
> Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 15:33:10 -0500
> Subject: Differnce between Durasparks I&II....

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