fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, December 2 1997 Volume 01 : Number 374
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: Was Vent window Now Cruise Setup [Randy Collins ]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
square headlights and 1978 [Stuart Varner
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections [Mike Schwall ]
RE 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips ["Hogan, Tom"
All the 289 info you can give me [Don Grossman ]
Restoration Pack [John Strauss ]
1969 f350 [Bruce Hart ]
Re: 1969 f350 [Floyd Terrell ]
Ghost Bronco ["Paul G." ]
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips [A66f100 aol.com]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Ghost Bronco [danadeb pacbell.net]
Stumbling Motor/Duraspark [shoman p3.net]
Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Stumbling Motor/Duraspark [shoman p3.net]
Re: What am I going to do????!! ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Re: Ghost Bronco [Mike Schwall ]
ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions [Ken Payne ]
Re: Ford Red Book ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
Edelbrock Carb ["mei home.com" ]
Re: 77 Ford 460 ["mei home.com" ]
Re: 1969 f350 [danadeb pacbell.net]
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 12:06:42 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Re: Was Vent window Now Cruise Setup
Tom H Wrote:
BTW Randy congratulations on your cruize setup. You may be interested (or
anyone else) that Grant (steering wheels) offers a kit to allow their
aftermarket wheels to be used with factory cruize. Keeps the buttons on
Tom thanks for the words of wisdom. Some time back I found a tilt column
for my truck. The tilt column has a small original Ford sport type wheel.
I like it a lot. The smaller wheel will fit the earlier Ford columns. If
any of you are interested in this wheel I believe that it can be found in
some of the 78 to 79 trucks and most of the early eighties Broncos. I
bought a new early 80's pad for my wheel from the dealer. It is wood
grained and I think that I came from one of the early 80's Broncos. It
looks awesome but it was pretty expensive. This newer wheel is the one
that has the resume button. Like I mentioned in one of my earlier posts I
believe if I get the post '79 amplifier (black box) this feature will work.
>>Anyone know for sure?
truck on the road so wont be able to test this out for a while.
1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
Machine work in progress...
(Soon to be 460 SUPER COBRA JET)
> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:46:36 -0600
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections
> Nope, factory setup. With engine running, put a volt meter on the
> starter solenoid - the "I" terminal. At least it says ~12V on mine,
Mike, is that the newer gear starter? They have a different wiring
I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)
- -- Gary --
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 03:57:08 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: square headlights and 1978
I thought the ONLY year Ford put square headlights in was 1979...not 78.
Maybe I am really wrong!! Has been known to happen on many
occasions...so sezs my wife!
In case someone was alseep, I do have a perfect unbent and undented
original tailgate trim piece (circa 1971 RANGER -- Not XLT) that says
FORD in it..very large letters, not small letters...(aluminum). It is
the very wide piece that fits in the tailgate section! Covers the whole
blame thing practically.
All it needs is buffed and repainted! Private email and we'll talk
turkey. I know they don't make this trim piece anymore at any obsolete
co. and I don't think FORD has them. It is taking up space in my shop
and I am trying to tear the front clip off my truck to redo the engine
bay and rebuild the motor.....I may be walking for a few months at the
rate I am goin'. stu
||I am also looking for 1971 Grill inserts. Nobody has em
| F O R D|
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 15:54:01 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections
At 04:47 PM 12/1/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:46:36 -0600
>> From: Mike Schwall
>> Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections
>> Nope, factory setup. With engine running, put a volt meter on the
>> starter solenoid - the "I" terminal. At least it says ~12V on mine,
>Mike, is that the newer gear starter? They have a different wiring
Forgot to mention, I have electronic ignition ('78 F150).
Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:51:46 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips
I had a similar problem on my 76 390FE. Turned out to be the fuel
filter. What threw me off was that it only appeared intermittently and
like you said after it started to happen if I shut off the motor for a
while it would run fine again. In my case the replaceable filter
element was on the inlet to the carb. Looked like an integral part of
the carb. One thing you might do to check it is run it until it happens
then pull the sight plugs on the fuel bowl and see if the bowls are dry.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:50:53 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips
Finally getting my van all put together and went on my first extended
on the local highway this weekend. Seems like the engine wasn't getting
fuel and just looking to see if anyone could point me in the right
for solving this one:
77 460/C6 with Holley 4bl. something or other carb (going to get in
and check out, came with the custom van). Replaced the mechanical fuel
with electric rated at 7 to 9 psi mounted half way between rear tank and
engine on frame, problem still exists.
Engine starts great, runs smooth, nothing obvious when cold, etc. Let
engine warm for about 10-15mins (thermostat broke, opens too soon and
to stay open, next on the list of repairs) drove 5 mins to highway, no
problems, drove 15 mins on highway, still no problems, then started
the engine would start to loose power. Releasing the gas pedal for a
and then reappling would allow the engine to "catch up" and continue to
perform normally for about 30 seconds and then this process would
Each time, unable to effectively get back to 55mph speed. Pulled over,
engine idle, all appears normal again. Get back on highway, works great
about 2 mins, starts all over again. On the way back home, the engine
actually died. I let it sit for about 5 mins., started the fuel pump
for about 10 seconds, then started the engine, then everything ran fine
about 5 mins, then poor performance repeated.
Seems once this fault started happening, it just wouldn't stop unless
turned off and allowed to cool, etc. It appears to be extended
highway/constant speed travel that brings this on. Short jaunts around
appear to be fine. I believe the fuel pump to be okay (any have a
test than watch if fill a glass jar with gas and pressure test?),
carb. float too low? Clogged passages? Any suggestions?
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 13:15:26 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: All the 289 info you can give me
I will skip all the details about this motor like what it is in( 59'
Willy Jeep truck) and get to the point ($1500 obo).
How well does the 289 run with the Edlebroke intake and good carb?
It has not been running for about 2 year(busted transmission) and I
didn't want to push to crank it over, just in case.
I want the motor and a friend wants the truck so it might work out. I
want to take the 289 and save it for a 59 Ford 4x4 that needs a motor.
Lay your info on me.
63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 15:43:30 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Restoration Pack
>GM has a service that if provided a VIN number, for a fee they will send
>you out a line ticket and other information about your vehicle.
>Does Ford offer anything like that, and if so how do I contact them.
Send them your VIN via email to cacinfo ford.com and you will get a "build
sheet". They only do them after a certain year model but I don't remember
what it is. I know I couldn't get the build sheet for my 1964 CC.
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:18:45 -0500
From: Bruce Hart
Subject: 1969 f350
I'm new to the list,hello to all.I have a 69/f350 flatbed with an I-6
and 4 speed hooked to a 455(something like that)rear end that I use to
pull my horse trailer and I would like to get more torque out of the
engine.If anyone has any experience or knows the best route to take
please let me know.Also where can I buy a ford service manual for 69
I have a '79 Bronco with 400/Auto. It doesn't run smooth unless the
driver's door is opened enough for the light to come on.
Does anyone know why? Note: This does NOT work with the passenger's
door. This just started a few months ago, and I can't find a problem
with timing, plugs, wires, etc. etc.
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 19:53:13 -0500 (EST)
From: A66f100 aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips
Sounds like your carb is icing up. Depends on what part of the U.S. you live
in. If you live in a colder climate the extended driving will allow your carb
to ice up and cause this problem. When your engine died and you had to wait a
while before it would start there was probably enough time for the engine
heat to melt the ice. You might want to check your preheat tube that runs
from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner housing or the air horn valve
that controls the flow of air from your preheat hose. Just a shot in dark.
One of the manuals I have says the stock electric choke should go
directly to the black ( I think )tap on the alternator. My alternator
has an unused tap ( orange I think ) that only has voltage when the
engine in running. ( When the key is in the run position there is no
voltage only when the alternator is turning does it have voltage. ) I am
currently using that tap. It only puts out 6 volts with and without load
but it seems to work well.
I looked at a schematic of my alternator and it seems to tap off of 1/2
of the rectifier. ( hope that made sense! )
Check it out!
Also I read in my ford manual that the stock electric chokes have a
built in temp sensor. The temp sensor doesn't let voltage to the heating
unit until the unit is above 60 degs ( slows down how fast the choke
comes off when it is really cold ) I don't know if it fails open or
closed but it might explain cold derivability problems if it fails
closed and pulls the choke off too soon.
Since my changeover to duraspark in my 68 302 i noticed that the engine
doesnt seem to idle or run as smooth from when i had points..(I even had
to turn up the idle adjustment to keep her from stalling)..What
am i doing wrong????I set the timing to the original 6 degrees..Should
I go higher??like 10????Anything else i could look at
Joe 1968 F-100 4x4 302 NP435 "Its not pretty but its gets me there"
1969 F-250 4x4 390 NP435 "Undecided Future"
I used the blue strain relief module....I used an 82 lincoln 302
distrubutor......Wired from Faq on net site...I did use the
correct coil...and did change to the large cap and wires....
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 19:06:10 PST
From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
Subject: Re: What am I going to do????!!
>> Had an old american once that the screws on the cover plate used to
>> come loose on and cause all kinds of trouble. Tightened them up
>> several times but they kept coming loose causing it to run lean.
Good minds think alike, thats what I plan on doing Tuseday..;)
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 20:55:25 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Ghost Bronco
At 08:15 PM 12/1/97 -0800, you wrote:
>I have a '79 Bronco with 400/Auto. It doesn't run smooth unless the
>driver's door is opened enough for the light to come on.
Hmm gremlins - finally a good challenge :) Electronic ignition or points?
Easy fix - disconnect the wires that go to the door switch :)
Real fix - trace the leads that go to the door switch. Looks like
something was spliced into the power lead that goes to the switch.
Positive goes to the switch and positive leaves the switch.
Check the power leads for the ignition system. Looks/sounds like the
ignition is run in series with the interior dome light and the power lead
that feeds both is very poor (dirty/bad connection or small gauge).
At least this is what it sounds like. Looks like the ignition is the first
on the run and the interior is last in the series and is tied to ground.
So when the light is on, the current through the spark box increases which
makes it work better/normal. When the light is off, current drops and
voltage goes up. The spark box needs current more than voltage. It will
run on 8 to 10 volts, but without enough current, it will not amplify the
voltage from the distributor enough to provide normal voltage to the
primary side of the coil to induce a high enough voltage on the secondary
side to make a hot enough spark - and will cause misses.
Hey, it sounds good :)
Check the power leads for the driver door switch and the ignition box. If
you have points, check the power lead that goes to the distributor (ballast
Hope this helps,
Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 23:16:02 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Web site & User Submissions
1. Voting on the site works great.
2. The survey script has proven to be so buggy once under load that
it is unusable. It will be replaced by the end of the week.
3. The chat script works, but bugs have also turned up. A friend
at work has written a Perl script that is supposed to work
really well. It should be on line by Saturday.
4. I'm still working on a search engine for the archives.
Also, I'm putting together a 67-79 disc brake upgrade FAQ. If
you would like to contribute an article about anything you've done
or any area of expertise you have, please let me know. We have a
volunteer to help edit any submissions and I'll take the edited
submission and format it for the web site. Original author will
retain the copyright, not us.
The submission can be about simple or complex items, any year and
model. The idea is to give the site some robust content.
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 19:14:44 PST
From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
Subject: Re: Ford Red Book
>> I kinda got the last of the posts about this "Red Book"
>> What is it?
>Little book to help decode vin's on ford trucks, 46 - 77. Decodes
>things like options, engines, trannys, colors etc..
> Ford Pickup
> Red Book
>By Peter C. Sessler
>I know where compressors get their air, it gets
>sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)
>-- Gary --
And were do I find this little marvel of the printed texted?
I have an Edelbrock Model 1406 with electric choke...the
says to hookup the positive from the choke to a key activated 12 volt
source. But it also says not to hook it up to the alternator or
What is the best place to run this wire to...to get 12v key activated
source voltage? I'd prefer not to run it through the firewall and to
the fuse box unless I have to.
I just hooked mine up to the second post of the starter solenoid works
great on a ford of course--try it with a multimeter---can't use coil
because it suck to much juice.
PS. Just about got my 1974 XLT F100 Ranger back together after
stripping out most of the things under the hood...minus an engine
I cranked hard on the radiator petcock drain valve (probably the wrong
way) and broke the mounting plate right out of the radiator...valve came
out still in the mounting plate. Gotta put it back in...then I can fire
it up and see how all the changes are going to work. I am planning on
using some silver solder and a propane torch to reattach the mounting
plate to the radiator. Do you guys see any problem with this approach?
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 21:51:32 -0000
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