Return-Path:
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:46:54 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #373
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, December 1 1997 Volume 01 : Number 373



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks61-79-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

77 460 not getting gas on extended trips ["John F. Bauer III"
Re: Speaking of bumpers! [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: What am I going to do????!! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Speaking of bumpers! [John Strauss ]
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: What am I going to do????!! [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Speaking of bumpers! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips ["John F. Bauer III"
Restoration Pack ["Allen D. Harpham" ]
Re: Questions on 69 f250 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: OD for built 460 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: need torque spec, please ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: need torque spec, please ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips [Mike Schwall
Vent window ["Hogan, Tom" ]
digest 369 WTB tailgate/trim [Stuart Varner
Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Edelbrock electrical connections ["Donald R. Screen"
Steering box seals on 1974 ["Donald R. Screen" ]
C6 shift kit [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Steering box seals on 1974 [John MacNamara ]
Pwr brakes [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Steering box seals on 1974 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Steering box seals on 1974 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Ford Red Book ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
SQUARE HEADLIGHTS [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
75 Pwr steering for 64 [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Edelbrock electrical connections [Mike Schwall ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:50:53 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

Finally getting my van all put together and went on my first extended trip
on the local highway this weekend. Seems like the engine wasn't getting
fuel and just looking to see if anyone could point me in the right direction
for solving this one:

77 460/C6 with Holley 4bl. something or other carb (going to get in there
and check out, came with the custom van). Replaced the mechanical fuel pump
with electric rated at 7 to 9 psi mounted half way between rear tank and
engine on frame, problem still exists.

Engine starts great, runs smooth, nothing obvious when cold, etc. Let
engine warm for about 10-15mins (thermostat broke, opens too soon and likes
to stay open, next on the list of repairs) drove 5 mins to highway, no
problems, drove 15 mins on highway, still no problems, then started noticing
the engine would start to loose power. Releasing the gas pedal for a second
and then reappling would allow the engine to "catch up" and continue to
perform normally for about 30 seconds and then this process would repeat.
Each time, unable to effectively get back to 55mph speed. Pulled over, let
engine idle, all appears normal again. Get back on highway, works great for
about 2 mins, starts all over again. On the way back home, the engine
actually died. I let it sit for about 5 mins., started the fuel pump first
for about 10 seconds, then started the engine, then everything ran fine for
about 5 mins, then poor performance repeated.

Seems once this fault started happening, it just wouldn't stop unless engine
turned off and allowed to cool, etc. It appears to be extended
highway/constant speed travel that brings this on. Short jaunts around town
appear to be fine. I believe the fuel pump to be okay (any have a better
test than watch if fill a glass jar with gas and pressure test?), possible
carb. float too low? Clogged passages? Any suggestions?

John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Nov 1997 21:03:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Speaking of bumpers!

- -> Yes, my 70 F-100 came with a chrome, non-step, bumper. It is similar
- -> in style and shape to the front bumper.

My ex-phone-company '68 came with a painted non-step bumper. As far
as I can tell the pickups did not come with a bumper by default; either
the dealer ordered the optional factory bumper or (99% of the time
around here) bolted on a step bumper with advertising welded on it.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 09:28:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: What am I going to do????!!

> From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
> Subject: Re: What am I going to do????!!
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 20:56:10 PST

> Well it was a simple little (more like lots!!) lose carb. It was
> something so simple. But I dont have the experiance to know about
> all this...;( Thats why Im here. *g*

Had an old american once that the screws on the cover plate used to
come loose on and cause all kinds of trouble. Tightened them up
several times but they kept coming loose causing it to run lean.

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 08:34:29 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Speaking of bumpers!

>>
>> Yes, my 70 F-100 came with a chrome, non-step, bumper. It is similar in
>> style and shape to the front bumper.
>
>
>
>Is there a particular name for this type of rear bumper?
>
Yes, it is called a CONTOUR bumper. I think they stopped offering this in
1980 or so.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:04:33 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

Sounds like a catalytic converter going/gone bad! I had the same problem
on an 89 E-350 Idle fine, slow rpm fine, extended higher rpm the cat
can't pass enough exhaust engine looses power. after some time at low
rpm or engine off and built up back pressure goes down and engine can
run again.

Easy to check.
1. remove tailpipe from inlet of catalytic converter.
2. drive as you did on hwy.
3. no problem replace cat.
4. problem still exists --- SELL ;)

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:07:22 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: What am I going to do????!!

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>

> Had an old american once that the screws on the cover plate used to
> come loose on and cause all kinds of trouble. Tightened them up
> several times but they kept coming loose causing it to run lean.
>


Removable Lock-Tite!


Dana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 10:08:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Speaking of bumpers!

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 21:44:55 -0800
> Subject: Speaking of bumpers!

> Does anyone know if there was a "NON" step type rear bumper for 1970
> trucks?

AFAIK all ford trucks come with "normal" bumpers and the step bumper
is optional and has been from the begining. Certain packages will
include it but normally you get a rounded smoothy. This means that
your truck could have come from the factory with a step bumper as an
option so it would then be "stock".

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:46:40 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

Sorry, but I don't have a cat. on this van, and thank goodness for the local
smog check confirms my setup didn't have one to begin with. I do have one
of those single inlet/outlet 2.5' mufflers that is supposed to be part of
the "stock" (so I'm told by previous owner) exhaust.

John

At 07:04 AM 12/1/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Sounds like a catalytic converter going/gone bad! I had the same problem
>on an 89 E-350 Idle fine, slow rpm fine, extended higher rpm the cat
>can't pass enough exhaust engine looses power. after some time at low
>rpm or engine off and built up back pressure goes down and engine can
>run again.
>
>Easy to check.
>1. remove tailpipe from inlet of catalytic converter.
>2. drive as you did on hwy.
>3. no problem replace cat.
>4. problem still exists --- SELL ;)
>
>Dana
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 09:37:09 -0600 (CST)
From: "Allen D. Harpham"
Subject: Restoration Pack

Hi All,

GM has a service that if provided a VIN number, for a fee they will send
you out a line ticket and other information about your vehicle.

Does Ford offer anything like that, and if so how do I contact them.

TIA, Allen

____________________________________________________________________________
Allen D. Harpham, President | Voice: (402)462-4619
Computer Consultants of | Fax: (402)462-4670
Hastings, Inc. | E-mail: aharpham cnweb.com
1126 N. Briggs Ave. | HTTP: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cnweb.com
Hastings, NE 68901-3713 | ____________________________________________
| Custom programming, Network
| Design and Installation,
| Telecommunications Consulting,
| Web Hosting Services
____________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:04:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Questions on 69 f250

> From: shoman p3.net
> Date: Sat, 29 Nov 1997 08:39:21 -0800
> Subject: Questions on 69 f250

> axle that i can swap that will have disc brakes/and 8 lugs?????I
> know its a dana 44 now and i could do that Che*y swap...any other
> late model saxles work?? Joe 1968 F-100 4x4 302 NP435 "Its not
> pretty but its gets me there"

F-250's came with HD Dana 44's (different stub shaft) and 60's in
various applications. I have both types of 44's, disk and drum. If
I remember tonight I'll take a look to see if there are any
differences in the axle housing, it not you should be able to pop out
the steering yoke at the ball joints and swap them for the disk
units. You can't swap various parts of the hubs and spindles though,
I know they are different for sure since the yokes are different
where the spindles bolt on. They also take a different stub shaft.
The length and ujoints are the same but the snap ring for the hub
gear is in a different spot by about 1/2". Guess how I know :-)


If you have the sealed type housing with the ball thingy and
trunion bearings forget everything I just said :-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:19:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: OD for built 460

> From: JMiller74
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 19:39:28 EST
> Subject: Re: OD for built 460

> transmission and 500+ horsepower. Also my 94 model ZF 5 speed has
> lived behind 600 lb-ft for 70,000 miles. +-------------- Ford Truck

Do you have the 542 or 547 model? 547 came out in 96 I think? Have
you kept the oil level up religiously? We hear bad things about the
ZF's :-(

Also what transfer case do you have with the ZF?

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:28:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: need torque spec, please

> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 1997 09:47:09 -0500
> From: "J. Oxley"
> Subject: need torque spec, please

> My crappy Haynes manual doesn't list the torque spec for the front
> ball joints, I have a 78 Bronco. Can anyone help.???

Very tight, OX :-) Don't know but I'll try to remember to look it up
tonight. I looked up the torque on the wheel bearings and the
recommendation was as I suspected. The 50# is to seat the bearings.
The 90 deg backoff is approximate and is intended to leave the
finished fit with a 0.001 - 0.010" axial play in the bearing. What
this boils down to is you should be able to feel a very slight
movement in the bearing when wiggling the wheel, but with disk brakes
this needs to be minimal. I played with mine till I got zero
movement and the next looser position on the retainer ring gave me
some movement. This takes patience but pays off in brake response
and rotor life. (If I ever get them bled, I'll let you know about
response :-))

BTW, the caps on the Dana 44's are torqued to 70 - 90 ftlbs. I
guessed at 85 and then went in and looked it up. Cool huh?

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 11:33:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: need torque spec, please

> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 03:48:07 -0500
> From: Barry Price
> Subject: Re: need torque spec, please

> My Chilton's Manual says to tighten them between 50 and 75 ft lbs.
>
> J. Oxley wrote:
>
> > My crappy Haynes manual doesn't list the torque spec for the front
> > ball joints, I have a 78 Bronco. Can anyone help.???

The bottom one is thin but self locking so 75 would be pushing it
IMHO but 50 - 60 is probably cool. The top one is castelated and
very heavy so would take 75 easily. I just pulled mine till it felt
like all the slack was out and the tapers were well seated, probably
around 60 or 70 ftlbs felt good to me. (just guessing, didn't use the
torque wrench) :-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 11:07:22 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

At 07:50 AM 12/1/97 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Finally getting my van all put together and went on my first extended trip
>on the local highway this weekend. Seems like the engine wasn't getting
>fuel and just looking to see if anyone could point me in the right direction
>for solving this one:

Check/replace fuel filter. On the carb where the fuel inlet is, take the
inlet apart (un-screws). Inside there is a small metal filter screen
(Holley's). Clean it and reinstall. Check float level.

See what that does.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 09:43:20 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: Vent window

Happy Thanksgiving everyone (belated but what the heck).

This holiday weekend was fantastic!! Can you believe that I actually
talked my wife into letting me go to the parts heaven (wrecking yard)
TWICE over the weekend. Second time she actually went but had to sit in
the car with the kids. Sometimes it does work out. I got interval
wipers, (installed; what a breeze!) cruize control (still to install -
need the turn signal switch and a steering wheel. Anyone???) and a
bunch of other little nick knacks I needed.

One thing I picked up was a drivers side vent window. It has a locking
latch and the seal is in good shape. The only thing missing is the
nylon doo-hickey that rubs on the frame and holds the widow tight. It
doesn't match my other one and I don't want to change them both out. If
anyone is interested e-mail me privately and make an offer.

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

BTW Randy congratulations on your cruize setup. You may be interested
(or anyone else) that Grant (steering wheels) offers a kit to allow
their aftermarket wheels to be used with factory cruize. Keeps the
buttons on the wheel.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 00:25:32 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: digest 369 WTB tailgate/trim

Digest 369 from over the holiday session had refernce to a tailgate bed
with trim....don't know or couldn't find the original senders
name.....listen close!

I have a perfect original unbent or dented wide trim piece that came on
my 71 Ranger. It needs cleaned and the letters need paintd. Other than
that I am willing to let it go. It is VERY VERY PERFECT!!!! It is a
wonderful unrestored example from a truck that was loved for 28 years.
I am making it into a custom instead of Ranger because I like the looks
of the Custom better. Less frills and trim to have to buy to
replace...makes the restification easier and cheaper for me. If you are
interested in this send private email and I will talk turkey or whatever
fowl you chose. :o) STU
Nuke GM!!!! warhead powered by sohc 427 FE Big Boy HAAAAHAAAHAAA!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:20:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 07:50:53 -0500
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: 77 460 not getting gas on extended trips

> Each time, unable to effectively get back to 55mph speed. Pulled
> over, let engine idle, all appears normal again. Get back on
> highway, works great for about 2 mins, starts all over again. On
> the way back home, the engine actually died. I let it sit for about
> 5 mins., started the fuel pump first for about 10 seconds, then
> started the engine, then everything ran fine for about 5 mins, then
> poor performance repeated.

Either the float setting or needle/seat is bad or ignition coil is
heating up and "opening" disrupting power. Can't think of anything
else off hand. Most likely ignition IMHO :-)

There is one other possibility, vapour lock or percolation from heat
in the carb. I had a fuel line once with glass filter and you could
actually see the fuel boil in there. Rerouted the fuel line to fix
it.

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 05:51:42 -0600
From: "Donald R. Screen"
Subject: Edelbrock electrical connections

I have an Edelbrock Model 1406 with electric choke...the
manual
says to hookup the positive from the choke to a key activated 12 volt
source. But it also says not to hook it up to the alternator or
coil.....
What is the best place to run this wire to...to get 12v key activated
source voltage? I'd prefer not to run it through the firewall and to
the fuse box unless I have to.

Thanks,
Don
Allen, Texas

PS. Just about got my 1974 XLT F100 Ranger back together after
stripping out most of the things under the hood...minus an engine
rebuild.
I cranked hard on the radiator petcock drain valve (probably the wrong
way) and broke the mounting plate right out of the radiator...valve came
out still in the mounting plate. Gotta put it back in...then I can fire
it up and see how all the changes are going to work. I am planning on
using some silver solder and a propane torch to reattach the mounting
plate to the radiator. Do you guys see any problem with this approach?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 05:56:08 -0600
From: "Donald R. Screen"
Subject: Steering box seals on 1974

I am going to replace the sector shaft and pitman arm seals on my
steering gear box on my 1974 F100 XLT Ranger. It is the original
steering box (if I remember correctly...called an integral steering gear
box). I have the new seals sitting on my workbench. Do I need to use a
special seal puller to get the old ones out?
The local parts guy thinks I'm wasting my time changing the seals
because he says "if the bearings in there are bad...the will tear up the
seals and it will leak all over again". What do you think about this?
Am I wasting my time just changing the seals or should I just pony up
the money for a rebuilt steering box? Autozone has a rebuilt exact
match for $166.


Don
Allen, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:35:18 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C6 shift kit

John:

Yes I would like to know. No hurry. It isn't something I'll be doing
prior to next summer, probably. Brand - Directions - Price(Approx)
and how to acquire is important.

>> I must confess that I don't do my own transmissions. I have a
gentleman in the San Fernando valley who rebuilds my c6's (3 now) and I
always have him install a shift kit if it needs one. If you would
like, I
could call him and ask.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:41:33 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Steering box seals on 1974

Donald R. Screen wrote:

> I am going to replace the sector shaft and pitman arm seals on my
> steering gear box on my 1974 F100 XLT Ranger. It is the original
> steering box (if I remember correctly...called an integral steering gear
> box). I have the new seals sitting on my workbench. Do I need to use a
> special seal puller to get the old ones out?
> The local parts guy thinks I'm wasting my time changing the seals
> because he says "if the bearings in there are bad...the will tear up the
> seals and it will leak all over again". What do you think about this?
> Am I wasting my time just changing the seals or should I just pony up
> the money for a rebuilt steering box? Autozone has a rebuilt exact
> match for $166.

I just rebuilt my steering box on a 67 mustang which I believe is very
similiar and there is no way the bearings can destroy the seals. If the box
has always been lubricated the bearings are probably still good. It's a
snap to replace the seal with the sector shaft removed but can't imagine
trying it with the shaft installed.

Good luck!
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

>
>
> Don
> Allen, Texas
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 13:47:37 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Pwr brakes

Corbin:

Just get the whole package(Booster - MC - Equalizer Valve, and as
much/many lines as you need for installation) off a mid '70's at the
wreckers. (wish Santa would give me a 66)

>>Having just been given a 66 F100 with 50,000 miles on it, I was
hoping the
experts on here can give me
some suggetions on putting power brakes in it

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:07:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Steering box seals on 1974

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 05:56:08 -0600
> From: "Donald R. Screen"
> Subject: Steering box seals on 1974

> parts guy thinks I'm wasting my time changing the seals because he
> says "if the bearings in there are bad...the will tear up the seals

If you have time to hunt around, bearings is bearings is bearings and
all you have to do is match them up. We have a company here called
Detroit ball bearing (used to be, don't know the name now) that could
match any bearing you throw at them. I agree that the bearings are
quite often the reason seals begin to leak due to allowing the shaft
to float and damage them but not always. Seals are cheap and always
worth a try IMHO :-)


I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:12:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Steering box seals on 1974

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 10:41:33 -0800
> From: John MacNamara
> Subject: Re: Steering box seals on 1974

> probably still good. It's a snap to replace the seal with the
> sector shaft removed but can't imagine trying it with the shaft
> installed.

I pulled mine in my 78 to see if it was damaged (twisted) and it took
all of 2 minutes to do it. Pop the pitman arm (you do have a puller
right?), take out two bolts on the top and lift it out. Clean
everthing off, including the bottom where the pitman arm is, real
well first so no dirt gets in cuz this is like an auto tranny,
doesn't like dirt :-)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:36:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford Red Book

> From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
> Subject: Ford Red Book
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 22:10:43 PST

> I kinda got the last of the posts about this "Red Book"
>
> What is it?

Little book to help decode vin's on ford trucks, 46 - 77. Decodes
things like options, engines, trannys, colors etc..

ISBN# 0-87938-789-0

Motorbooks International
Ford Pickup
Red Book

By Peter C. Sessler

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 14:57:02 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: SQUARE HEADLIGHTS

>>So can anyone tell me if it is a fuzzy line through the 78 model year
or
what? Could it depend on the plant it came from? or the trim level?

Square headlights were "trim Level" determined on the '78's. Ranger
XLT's and some others that I can no longer remember.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:03:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 05:51:42 -0600
> From: "Donald R. Screen"
> Subject: Edelbrock electrical connections

> I have an Edelbrock Model 1406 with electric choke...the
> manual says to hookup the positive from the choke to a key activated
> 12 volt source. But it also says not to hook it up to the
> alternator or coil..... What is the best place to run this wire
> to...to get 12v key activated source voltage? I'd prefer not to run
> it through the firewall and to the fuse box unless I have to.

Running the wire through the firewall is a no brainer. Poke it
through the big rubber grommett on the drivers side near the hood
hinge and splice it with crimp connectors or solder to the
"Accessory" wire (usually brown or yellow).

Might as well make it neat while you're at it :-)

Just use a test light (external power, not continuity) to find the
acc lug and trace the wire to a conveninent spot for the splice :-)
(Don't cut the wire, peel it and wrap and solder or crimp to it)

I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:06:27 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 75 Pwr steering for 64

I would think so with only slight modifications if any at all. I would
invest and find a way to make them work for that price.

>>are...can I use the disc brake set up off this truck to convert my '64
to power disc ???

And 2nd...will the power steering work on the '64 ???

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:14:43 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections

At 05:51 AM 12/1/97 -0600, you wrote:
> I have an Edelbrock Model 1406 with electric choke...the
>manual
>says to hookup the positive from the choke to a key activated 12 volt
>source. But it also says not to hook it up to the alternator or
>coil.....
>What is the best place to run this wire to...to get 12v key activated
>source voltage? I'd prefer not to run it through the firewall and to
>the fuse box unless I have to.

Run a wire from the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid to the electric
choke.

Mike

P.S. If key is in the "ON" position , the choke will be energized - even if
the engine is not running.

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997 15:38:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections

> Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:14:43 -0600
> From: Mike Schwall
> Subject: Re: Edelbrock electrical connections

> P.S. If key is in the "ON" position , the choke will be energized -
> even if the engine is not running.

Sorry, I said accessory lug I meant run lug. If this wire is for the
choke you don't want to hook it to the start or acc lug or circuits,
it needs to be in the 12v portion of the run circuit which is why it
says not to use a coil wire or module wire.

I'm really tired today and lost the gist of the subject I guess :-(

Any wires going to the start relay will be off in the run position so
no power will reach the carb unless you have an odd setup??

Some ford alternators use the electric choke lug as a ground for the
regulator or field windings, not sure. The bimetal spring offers
some resistance as I understand so better find out if your system had
an electric choke and where the power came from. I found this out
the hard way when the alternator didn't work and my battery died
after working on the engine and accidentally breaking this wire :-(


I know where compressors get their air, it gets
sucked out of the NEIGHBOR'S electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:46:36 -0600....

---

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.