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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 18:13:22 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #358
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, November 18 1997 Volume 01 : Number 358



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Thanks Don [shoman p3.net]
New Compressor ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Np435 vs. T-19 [james oxley ]
T case [am14 chrysler.com]
Np205/NP203 [am14 chrysler.com]
Chrome Grille [John Strauss ]
'73 F250 Ranger XLT 390 [John Strauss ]
'61 FS Redding CA cheap [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
351 M trouble [Stuart Varner ]
RE: Oil Sluge and Windsheild Seals [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
black center caps jstrauss [Stuart Varner
Emblems on Trucks [am14 chrysler.com]
Clacking sound [am14 chrysler.com]
CID formula [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: ADMIN: Please read... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 390 and duraspark ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 351M trouble ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: '73 F250 Ranger XLT 390 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
soapy flat [Sleddog ]
351M trouble more info [Adam Clever ]
RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Oil Sludge and Windshield Seals ["George Shepherd"
Re: 390 and duraspark ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: 351M trouble ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: 64 f-100 master cylinder [SARHOG aol.com]
KACC PAGE- SORRY ABOUT THE PICS. [A64F100 aol.com]
One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb. [William Sabers
It's Fixed!! (I hope) THE KACC PAGE [A64F100 aol.com]
Re: CID [JRFiero aol.com]
Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb. [Keith Srb
Hi i need some tips to know what i've bought c'tnued [Thierry Delattre

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:13:37 -0800
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Thanks Don

Don,
just a little thank you for all your help with my long drawn out
questions...
thanks again
- --
Joe 1968 F-100 4x4 302 NP435 "Its not pretty but its gets me there"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:27:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: New Compressor

Well Gang, I fired the dang thing up last night and just happened to
be looking out the garage door toward the neighbors and noticed that
their lights dimmed when I flipped on the breaker :-) (just kidding)

Don't think I mentioned it to the truck list but I bought a new
compressor, 7-1/2 hp 27.2 cfm 90, 25.4 cfm 175, 100% american
made Campbell Housefeld and it's definitely in keeping with my BB
nature. Runs nice and smooth so I won't even have to tie it down
but runs on a 40 amp circuit and sucks the juice out of the lines
when it starts.

I have a question for the electical gurus. If I have a 200 amp
service and I run copper (don't believe in al) #2-0 from the meter
and #2 to the shop on 100 amp breaker why do I get so much line
loss??? I believe the loss is in the Consumer cable running to my
house. Is that likely?

My feeling is that 8' of #2-0 will handle 200 amps with no loss and
25' of #2 should handle 100 amps with little or no loss. If this is
correct then 40 amps certainly should not cause this dip unless the
cable supplying the property is inadequate. Please straighten my out
if I'm wrong here cuz I'm about to call the company for an upgrade
:-(

Has anyone ever heard of a capacitor bank for residential
applications?

Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:19:52 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Np435 vs. T-19

Not sure who else was looking for this info. I called this guy Ed
Hartnett who has a 4spd shop in Pa. He told me

NP435 has a 6.68 first gear, 2-4 synchonized, funky 3-4 synchronizer
assembly with 3rd gear possibly popping out.

T-18 has a 13-01 casting in side of case. Could have 4.32 or 6.32 first
gear. Does not have 3rd gear popping out problem.

T-19, identical to T-18, except first gear is snychronized. Only way to
tell is open case and look.

He said he has not seen any major problems with breakage on either
trans. My 78 Bronco had the NP 435 and the 79 Bronco trans I bought is
either a T-18 or T-19, not sure of first gear ratio yet.

I have not had any problems with 3rd gear popping out on NP435. I did
rebuild it at 150K miles and have had a 3-2 downshift problem recently.

I guess I am sticking with the NP435, because it has the lowest first
gear, even lower than I thought.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:19:54 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: T case

F250's/F350's thru 1977 had divorced T cases. Has nothing to do with
engine size. Has to do with Truck size. 1978 and later had the
'married' T case/tranny.


>> It might have been around 76 or 77
that Ford used only the married t-case.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:51:41 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Np205/NP203

The advantages I know of are all gear drive for the NP205. The NP203 is
chain drive. Don't know about lower, low range. I think the adaptor
from the tranny to T case is different for the Two. I did this
conversion on a '76 I used to own and I'm quite sure I had to get the
adaptor from a donor vehicle that had the same tranny (C6 in my case)
as I had in my truck. I got the T case from a vehicle that had a
manual 4sp and the T case adaptor from a Bronco if my memory serves me
correctly. It has been nearly 20 years ago and I'm not positive about
all this, but I would check it out before I spent some big bucks for a
T case I couldn't install until I got some more goodies that are hard
to find. Some very heavy lifting involved, but no rocket scientist
mentality required. JMHO.

Good luck.

>>One more question: What would the advantage of a NP205 vs. a NP203
with
> the part time conversion and lockouts be? Someone mentioned a lower
low
> range, anything else? What is the going rate for a used one? Is it
a
> easy swap?

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:08:07 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Chrome Grille

>Hi all I am looking for a Chomed tube style grille for my 69 F100 and
>have been for some time I was recently at a show and saw a guy who had
>one but claimed he did'nt remember where he got it my question is this I
>came across one in J.C. Whitney but they only have them for 75 -77 ( 75
>is as far as they go back) will a 75 grille fit a 69? Thanks for the
>help.
>
No, it will not.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:07:01 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '73 F250 Ranger XLT 390

>I just picked up this F250. The vertical trim piece in the center of the
>grill is missing. What did it look like and where can I get a replacement?
>
Very common problem that these fall off because they were just glued on.
It's red plastic and has silver inlays. At the top it says "XLT" and has a
very elongated version of the old ford crown under it. I'd try the Ford
dealer first. The emblem is the same 1973-75.

>Secondly, I remember seeing one F series (pre '80, but don't remember how old
>it was) that had 390 emblems on the front fenders. Did Ford ever put the
>engine displacement emblems on their pickups?
>
Yes, but only 1968-69 and only for the 390 AFAIK.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 06:12:08 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: '61 FS Redding CA cheap

Spotted this one in a freebie auto trader -

1961 Ford Pickup, V-8, 4 speed,
salvage bill of sale, $650 U-Pull-It
1393 Hartnell Ave, Redding CA
916-222-3729

That's all I know, hate to see it
go to scrap. Picture shows it to
be in decent condition.

If you call, you might be hassled by
the phone people as I think the area
code is changing to 530.

- - Jeff
'64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 09:44:29 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: 351 M trouble

I have had fuel pumps make a terribel clacking racket when they were
worn really good. I replaced it and it went away. HHHMMMMM!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 10:05:22 -0500
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
Subject: RE: Oil Sluge and Windsheild Seals

Item Subject: Text Item
Hello All,

The oil sluge could be caused by mixing two different types
of oil. I was told long ago never to mix a pennslvaina grade
and a texas grade oil, because they are not compatable and
produce a white sluge. Any truth to this?

Windsheild sealing, Your local auto glass supplier has a sealer
that works well and hold up to the test of time. It's black
very, very sticky and comes in a caulk tube. I think it was
around $8 a tube. I would not use clear silicon, it will not
hold up over time.

I.M.H.U.O. (In My Honest Unprofessional Opinion)

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:01:44 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: black center caps jstrauss

Aren't they the same 3 screw pattern as the late model caps? I was
looking at a set of rims like you are talking about the other day and I
said to meself, they look like the same caps that are on the late model
96 rims I have on my 71 effie. I may be way off here I dunno. Nuke GM!
Stu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:47:52 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Emblems on Trucks

Not to my knowledge. I think this is someones idea of 'COOL'...

>>Did Ford ever put the
engine displacement emblems on their pickups?

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:52:43 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Clacking sound

Sounds like a rod knock or a cracked/broken piston to me.... Hope I'm
wrong !!

>>The noise is metallic, as opposed to the softer lifter sound, and
changes
tone slightly when idle speed changes similar to the sound in a
sheetrock
wall as you approach a stud. It is present at different times, and
different engine speeds. Most consistently it appears at cruise speed
(moderate engine load) and goes away or diminishes either under power
or at
coast.


Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:58:52 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: CID formula

I've never heard of this. Does anyone know that this always works???
Any mathmaticians out there!!! This is much simpler than the method I
was taught. (Pi X R2 X L = Volume X # of Cyl = CID) Where did I learn
this anyway?? Was it geometry - math - calculus - or trig?? Boy is my
memory going!!

>>
Engine size times over size bore .30 (.030),.60 (.060), .90 (.090)
etc.....)
divided by 2 plus engine size.

460 x .030 = 13.8 w 2 = 6.9 + 460 = 466.9

It seem to work on any engine size.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:00:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Please read...

> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 06:55:00 -0500
> From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
> Subject: Re: ADMIN: Please read...

> -> In short I'm on two lists and share what I learn from both with
>
> *Two* lists? Pfaugh! I'm on twenty...

Some people have all the time, I have to work for a living and
sometimes it even interferes with my recreation :-)

Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:16:20 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 21:48:54 -0800
> Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark

> No. The distributor body for FE is different than all others. The
> electronics is the same for all, also the V8 big cap and rotor
> seems to fit all.

Seems to me we've always had the same basic shaft and internal
dimensions so it may be possible to retrofit the internals into a
points type older FE distributor. Not sure tho but worth looking
into? I know I've retrofited later models that way and if fact with
in reverse by putting in an OEM dual point system in a dura spark
housing with a dura spark shaft :-)

Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:21:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351M trouble

> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 97 09:12:00 -0800
> From: Adam Clever
> Subject: 351M trouble

> A 'clacking' sound has developed in the '79 351M. At first I didn't

Is it dull or sharp, tinny or deep? Sounds like a broken valve
spring, bent pushrod or damaged lifter.

Rods generally show up at idle or decelleration, mains are generally
higher frequency and more intense or sharper sound than rods.

Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 12:30:59 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '73 F250 Ranger XLT 390

> Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 08:07:01 -0600
> From: John Strauss
> Subject: '73 F250 Ranger XLT 390

> Yes, but only 1968-69 and only for the 390 AFAIK.

Ha! I though so. I kept quiet cuz I couln't remember for sure but I
thought my 68 had the 352 inside of the ford emplem below the V with
an 8 in it?

Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:45:40 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: soapy flat

thanks for the soaping the tire info to those who responded. as soon as i
can do it without freezing my fingers off i'm gonna give it a shot. winter
has arrived!

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 97 09:30:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: 351M trouble more info

>
I hope this is the case but don't see why the noise would change under load.


Under load, either acceleration or deceleration it goes away... for now.
What's Your hot oil pressure like?>>
Good but, I recently changed the oil after about 7000 miles. First thing I
noticed was the pressure, although good, dropped about one letter on the' N
O R M A L' scale but runs consistently in the O - R range at all
temperatures with a 1yr old Melling high volume pump. I assumed the fresh
oil was just flushing through a little easier. Maybe that dirty oil was
holding my rod bearing together? Maybe a little chewing gum will help, Ha.


of the cam is coming loose and the cam is walking back and forth in there.
Let us know if you come across any more detail. Hope this helps.>>

Me too, I'll see, I will, thanks me too.


spring, bent pushrod or damaged lifter.
Rods generally show up at idle or decelleration, mains are generally
higher frequency and more intense or sharper sound than rods.>>

Dull and tinny, gets deeper then diminishes or goes away on acceleration,
more shallow on decelleration. The 'shallowness' sounds like something
light hitting lighter metal as if something is loose hitting the oil pan.


wrong !!>>
Boy oh boy, the investigation continues...

Thanks for the input, this is exactly the type of information I needed.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 13:33:35 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 22:06:37 -0500
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

> So Gary, exactly how does a windage tray alleviate this? I have read
> that installing one of these is cheap and easy horsepower. Any
> experience?

The tray fits closely to the crank counter weights and literally
scrapes the oil off as they pass forcing it to fall back into the
pan. It also prevents the hurricane phenomena by acting as a
spoiler. They are very simple but have to be hand fited most of the
time I would think to get the best fit. I've never used one but know
about them from catalogs and such. Often thought I might do it on
the next rebuild since the larger crank of the 460 has more tendency
to do this at lower rpms than smaller engines I've been told :-)


Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 13:14:37 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Oil Sludge and Windshield Seals

- ----------
> From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: RE: Oil Sluge and Windsheild Seals
> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 9:05 AM
>
> Item Subject: Text Item
> Hello All,
>
> The oil sluge could be caused by mixing two different types
> of oil. I was told long ago never to mix a pennslvaina grade
> and a texas grade oil, because they are not compatable and
> produce a white sluge. Any truth to this?

NOpe-- All oils are required to be compatible.
>
> Windsheild sealing, Your local auto glass supplier has a sealer
> that works well and hold up to the test of time. It's black
> very, very sticky and comes in a caulk tube. I think it was
> around $8 a tube. I would not use clear silicon, it will not
> hold up over time.

Depends on whether you are installing a new windshield or just trying to
solve a leaking gasket.


>
> I.M.H.U.O. (In My Honest Unprofessional Opinion)
>
> Rich
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 13:17:46 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark

- ----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark
> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 5:16 AM
>
> > From: sdelanty sonic.net
> > Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 21:48:54 -0800
> > Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark
>
> > No. The distributor body for FE is different than all others. The
> > electronics is the same for all, also the V8 big cap and rotor
> > seems to fit all.
>
> Seems to me we've always had the same basic shaft and internal
> dimensions so it may be possible to retrofit the internals into a
> points type older FE distributor. Not sure tho but worth looking
> into? I know I've retrofited later models that way and if fact with
> in reverse by putting in an OEM dual point system in a dura spark
> housing with a dura spark shaft :-)

Course, you see, I am still paranoid about the big blast, so I retrofit all
my cars with points and don't depend on anything that doesnot have a carb.
>
> Do you spend more time looking
> for tools than using them???
>
> -- Gary --
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:26:17 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Re: 351M trouble

Sorry 'bout your luck.

I just took down and rejuvenated a '77 400 w/ the same problem as
yours. Unfortunately, the result was a tore up #4 main bearing. It
has the alomst exact sounds as mine did. After a crank kit and a line
bore, she is as fit asa fiddle. It may be a rod as an obvious as
well.

Now if I can figure out the rough idle and backfire on hard
acceleration?????????


M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG

'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:50:47 -0500 (EST)
From: SARHOG aol.com
Subject: Re: 64 f-100 master cylinder

In a message dated 97-11-18 05:52:58 EST, you write:


460 owners with there intake manifold problems spend the extra money buy
a holman-moody intake great performance perfect fit! >>

I've never heard of em. Where can I get info on one? How much do they cost?
Who sells them? Do they have a web site? Are they single plane, or dual?

John Z
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 17:41:03 -0500 (EST)
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: KACC PAGE- SORRY ABOUT THE PICS.

IS THERE ANYONE THAT CAN SEE THE PICS? I'm trying to fix the problem, sorry
about the inconvenience...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 14:58:37 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.

Well, I finally got my friends 300/6 running nicely this weekend.
The origional carb was pretty worn out, so She replaced it last year.
The new carb never ran quite right, it had an off idle dead spot that
couldn't be tuned out.
Sooo, She rebuilt it a couple months ago. (She's pretty competent with
this stuff) It worked a bit better when She was done, but still not good.
Finally in frustration, She bought *another* remanufactured carb last month.
It ran HORRIBLY!
No amount of adjustment could get it to idle smoothly, and now the
off idle flat spot was way worse. It would often die when trying to
leave a stop light and was nearly undrivable at low RPM.
It ran fine at freeway speeds. So, I tried rebuilding it. The first
thing I found was that the float level was low by nearly 1/2"!!
Apparently someone at the REMAN shop is clueless. 1-9/16" is NOT the
same as 1-3/32"... I figured "well that was the problem", reassembled
it and reinstalled it. Not much difference. )-:

We already knew that the distributor was very badly worn and sloppy,
so we got the duraspark goods at the wreckers and installed them this
weekend, hoping that would help. It didn't...
Aaarghh, back to the carb again.

So I pull the carb off yet again, and vow to figure out the problem or
die trying..
This time I *fully* disassemble it, INCLUDING removing all the soft plugs
to gain access to all the little passages... While drilling out the
lead plug at the top of the idle fuel passage I realize that the plug is
*way* too long and extends down so far that it almost completely covers
the hole where one passage is cross drilled into the other!!!
The idle fuel passage was almost completely obstructed...
I dig all the lead bits out, clean it all up, drive new plugs into
the passages, reinstall the carb and... it runs GREAT!
Silky smooth idle, and great throttle response now.

Jeez, when You spend $100+ for a rebuilt carb, You kinda hope that whoever
rebuilt it is smarter than a gram of lead! It cost us dozens of hours
of intense frustration, plus the dangers of having it stall in
intersections, etc, cuz some a**hole wasn't paying attention. )-:
We both wanted to find that person and beat them to death.
(slowly and painfully)

I think the moral of the story is NEVER trust anyone else to do it right.

Aaarghh!


Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 17:41:17 -0600 (CST)
From: William Sabers
Subject: Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.

This almost sounds bitter.... I always go by the addage, "If you want it
done right, be good friends with a good mechanic; or buy a Chiltons..."

Wsabers

> Well, I finally got my friends 300/6 running nicely this weekend.
> The origional carb was pretty worn out, so She replaced it last year.
> The new carb never ran quite right, it had an off idle dead spot that
> couldn't be tuned out.
> Sooo, She rebuilt it a couple months ago. (She's pretty competent with
> this stuff) It worked a bit better when She was done, but still not good.
> Finally in frustration, She bought *another* remanufactured carb last month.
> It ran HORRIBLY!
> No amount of adjustment could get it to idle smoothly, and now the
> off idle flat spot was way worse. It would often die when trying to
> leave a stop light and was nearly undrivable at low RPM.
> It ran fine at freeway speeds. So, I tried rebuilding it. The first
> thing I found was that the float level was low by nearly 1/2"!!
> Apparently someone at the REMAN shop is clueless. 1-9/16" is NOT the
> same as 1-3/32"... I figured "well that was the problem", reassembled
> it and reinstalled it. Not much difference. )-:
>
> We already knew that the distributor was very badly worn and sloppy,
> so we got the duraspark goods at the wreckers and installed them this
> weekend, hoping that would help. It didn't...
> Aaarghh, back to the carb again.
>
> So I pull the carb off yet again, and vow to figure out the problem or
> die trying..
> This time I *fully* disassemble it, INCLUDING removing all the soft plugs
> to gain access to all the little passages... While drilling out the
> lead plug at the top of the idle fuel passage I realize that the plug is
> *way* too long and extends down so far that it almost completely covers
> the hole where one passage is cross drilled into the other!!!
> The idle fuel passage was almost completely obstructed...
> I dig all the lead bits out, clean it all up, drive new plugs into
> the passages, reinstall the carb and... it runs GREAT!
> Silky smooth idle, and great throttle response now.
>
> Jeez, when You spend $100+ for a rebuilt carb, You kinda hope that whoever
> rebuilt it is smarter than a gram of lead! It cost us dozens of hours
> of intense frustration, plus the dangers of having it stall in
> intersections, etc, cuz some a**hole wasn't paying attention. )-:
> We both wanted to find that person and beat them to death.
> (slowly and painfully)
>
> I think the moral of the story is NEVER trust anyone else to do it right.
>
> Aaarghh!
>
>
> Steve Delanty
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 18:59:26 -0500 (EST)
From: A64F100 aol.com
Subject: It's Fixed!! (I hope) THE KACC PAGE

KACC PAGE
try it now

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:17:36 -0500 (EST)
From: JRFiero aol.com
Subject: Re: CID

In a message dated 97-11-18 05:32:57 EST, you write:


I SCREWED UP THE PREVIOUS POST. ITS PIE X R2 x L= CID.

Azie
>>
'cept that it's "Pi", the R2 means R squared, and you need 'x8', or however
many cylinders you have.
Pi x (radius x radius) = area of a circle
Pi x (radius x radius) x length = volume of a cylinder
times the number of cylinders = displacement
Pi = 3.14159 (rounded)
radius = 1/2 the bore
L = stroke

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 17:23:53 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.

At 02:58 PM 11/18/97 -0800, you wrote:
snip

> This time I *fully* disassemble it, INCLUDING removing all the soft plugs
> to gain access to all the little passages... While drilling out the
> lead plug at the top of the idle fuel passage I realize that the plug is
> *way* too long and extends down so far that it almost completely covers
> the hole where one passage is cross drilled into the other!!!
> The idle fuel passage was almost completely obstructed...
> I dig all the lead bits out, clean it all up, drive new plugs into
> the passages, reinstall the carb and... it runs GREAT!
> Silky smooth idle, and great throttle response now.

snip

O.K. so what model carb was it?

Did the new plugs come with the rebuild kit?

Later

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:51:17 -0500
From: Thierry Delattre
Subject: Hi i need some tips to know what i've bought c'tnued

>Thank you for all folks givin' tips about the engine identification.
>
>Finally it's a 302 (according to the numbers left on the valve
>cover and the parts guy at the local FORD dealer)...
>
>But just to continue the overall truck id, i'll throw in the numbers i've found
>at many different places on the truck (except where they should be)
>
>On the rear of the door and on the door post there isn't any VIN.. on the
>door there are two hole so i imagine it's not the original door or the
>original VIN whas removed...
>
>I have to say that according to the papers i have, the truck was inspected by
>the immatriculation bureau 2 years ago and they putted ind they're VIN
>which reads:
>
> F104GA85230
>
>in the engine compartement attached on the cab in the center there was
>this bunch of numbers:
>
>ROT 3678 Z 82
>W 1HA LONG
>F10 BJ5169 4B R
>
>on the valve cover we can read:
>
>G366AA C80
>5 566B R0
> S25
>
>and on the automatic tranny:
>
>PGD AC8 L24....


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