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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 03:50:27 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #347
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, November 12 1997 Volume 01 : Number 347



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark] ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
This is a test. ["Eric" ]
Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark] [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: This is a test. [danadeb pacbell.net]
After market gauges [Keith Srb ]
Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle [Keith Srb]
RE: After market gauges [Sleddog ]
Re: 66 F100 Stumbling [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
Auto Krafters Inc... ["Bill Beyer" ]
RE: Auto Krafters Inc... [mcat epix.net]
Re: Auto Krafters Inc... ["Bill Beyer" ]
RE: After market gauges [Sleddog ]
460 Heads.. [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
RE: How to cut sheetmetal [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
air in mech gauge line [Adam Clever ]
Re: 460 Heads.. [danadeb pacbell.net]
RE: After market gauges [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Slipping C6 tranny ["Brett McCoy" ]
Stuff For Sale [Randy Collins ]
351C Gas mileage [Doug Neely ]
Rad support swap [Doug Neely ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:37:22 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark]

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 19:03:42 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark]

> Gary,
> I have read in several sources that the wiring harnesses were wrong
> in some cases. But the wire colors on the dist and module are all
> uniform in every diagram I have seen.

As long as you get matching components made for the same model year
they will work together. The problem comes in with the non matching
years where the orange and purple wires don't operate correctly and
have to be reversed. This change happened in 76 and another when the
blue wire was eliminated. What happened was that ford changed
either the module colors or the vehicle colors but not the other and
went into production so there are a bunch out there in the 76 model
year range that have this mis match. Either my 79 Chiltons or the
Petersons has a very nice history on this.

Apparently I was wrong on the red/white thing (going from memory) but
the warning still applies, don't mix them up and make sure the red
(run) wire on the module is fed from the ballast resistore at 6 - 8 v
or it won't run correctly.

Do we have the right
spares in our beast?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:20:56 EST
From: "Eric"
Subject: This is a test.

Hey fellow trucksters,

I've switched to digest last week and haven't heard a thing from
this list. What's up? Is everybody driving their trucks (except
me!!) :-( instead of writing to the list?! I'm getting mail from
the 60 and older list in digest form just fine......

Eric

=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 07:48:27 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark]

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:

> Apparently I was wrong on the red/white thing (going from memory) but
> the warning still applies, don't mix them up and make sure the red
> (run) wire on the module is fed from the ballast resistore at 6 - 8 v
> or it won't run correctly.

All of the wiring diagrams I see say: red to 12v. The ballast resister
( resistor wire ) goes to the "+" side of the coil only, just like in a
breaker setup. ( The only thing that the module is doing is acting as
the breaker. ) The module will probably work on the same voltage as the
coil ( 6-8 ) but if it is designed to work on 12 v it might not work as
well or damage it.

If you look at the wiring diagrams the only wire that is attached to the
Resistor is the wire going to the coil and the wire that goes between
the coil and the starter relay:



|---------------Start-------------------------------white +12V
| /----------------------------Red +12V
+12V------------Run----|-----/\/\/\/\/\---/---------To + coil
| |
|----------------Start Bypass-------------/


As you can see ( I hope it looks like I drew it) the red run wire is
attached to the battery side of the ballast resistor which would get you
+12V not 6-8V.

If you hook the white wire to the start bypass terminal on the starter
solenoid it would get 6-8V all of the time. Which is not what the
diagrams have in mind.

I hope this clears things up.

Would the resident E.E. make a ruling on the issue!

Once again see site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html
and look at the battery side of the diag.

I won't argue about the orange / purple issue.

I do agree that using the components from the same year vehicle is a
good idea and will ultimately help you remember where the parts came
from.

Have a great day!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 07:50:25 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: This is a test.

Eric,
It seems to have been a very quiet week end!
Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:24:28 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: After market gauges

Hello All,

If you were going to put a set of after market gauges in your truck:

1. What gauges would you put in, Tach, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, ETC.



2. Which brand would you use.


Thanks!
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:27:27 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle

At 05:21 PM 11/10/97 -0600, you wrote:
>At 04:01 PM 11/10/97 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>this engine, whatever that means. I have tried advancing the time a little,
>>I have tried retarding the timing a little. I have double and triple
>>checked the distributor to make sure the advance was working, it is.
>>>A week and half ago I replaced the stock style muffle with a two chamber,
>>turbo muffler. Now it stumbles worse than it ever did.
>>
>>Anybody got any other suggestions???
>
>Done a compression check? Low compression could cause the engine to stall
>at low RPMs under a load.

Yes, ranged from 132 to 141.

>
>Mike
>
>_____________________________________________
>
>Email: mikes intx.net
>Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:46:07 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: After market gauges

i have in my truck puller a tach, oil pressure, water temp gauges. someday
i would also like to have a oil temp and tranny oil temp gage. i will put
in an amp or volt meter some day, but haven't decided which is better.

IMHO, a oil pressure is most important, followed by a tach and water temp.

i have a VDO tach in 2 trucks with no problems with them. they look and
work very well with both the stock ignition i had and my current MSD setup.
the oil/water temp gauges are "cheap" summit gauges that work well enough
for me and look good. the oil gauge seems a little sticky sometimes, but
not real bad. i think they were $45 for the temp gauges.

i do beleive that when it comes to gauges you do get what you pay for. the
real cheap gauges that freinds have bought have all turned out to be just
that, cheap! many stopped working shortly after getting them.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Keith Srb[SMTP:herbie netvalue.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 11:24 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net; fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: After market gauges

Hello All,

If you were going to put a set of after market gauges in your truck:

1. What gauges would you put in, Tach, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, ETC.



2. Which brand would you use.


Thanks!
Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"







+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 12:05:15 -0500
From: RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com
Subject: Re: 66 F100 Stumbling

Item Subject: Text Item
Keith,

My 61 did the same thing. I had a dead spot at about
900 rpm. As you,I thought carb. Replaced it no help.
Took it to a shop w/dia.tools and they said the engine
checked out fine. Make sure there is no vacuum leaks
a vacuum gauge will tell that story. I know you said
you checked the dist. twice, but how old is it? Mine
checked fine too, but it was bad! I say, replace it
with a new one. I replaced mine with one from a
"used truck parts store" ie:junk yard(I still like junk yard
better, thats all I've been able to get there). Anyhow,
the junk yard one was bad as well and had the same problem.
Good luck, Let us know.

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:06:30 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Auto Krafters Inc...

Anyone ever heard of a company called Auto Krafters Inc? They're
advertising in the Dec 97 Four Wheeler mag. They claim to have all kinds of
parts for 73-79 F-series as well as 4wd parts and used parts. Before I kiss
$3 for a catalog goodbye I just wondered if anyone had any experience with
them good, bad or otherwise. Thanks, feel free to email me direct to save
bandwidth.

Bill Beyer

79 Ford F250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 16:50:28 PST
From: mcat epix.net
Subject: RE: Auto Krafters Inc...

Bill,
I have dealt with this co. The are very good and will try to
help on problems when the need arises. I have had stuff shipped to me and
have picked up parts at the spring and fall Carlisle shows. They always
seem friendly and like to meet the people that they sell to when they can.
Garry
- --- On Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:06:30 -0800 Bill Beyer
wrote:

>Anyone ever heard of a company called Auto Krafters Inc? They're
>advertising in the Dec 97 Four Wheeler mag. They claim to have all kinds
of
>parts for 73-79 F-series as well as 4wd parts and used parts. Before I
kiss
>$3 for a catalog goodbye I just wondered if anyone had any experience
with
>them good, bad or otherwise. Thanks, feel free to email me direct to save
>bandwidth.
>
>Bill Beyer
>
>79 Ford F250 4x4
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 11/11/97 Time: 4:50:28 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:36:26 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: Auto Krafters Inc...

Thanks for the info.

- ----------
> From: mcat epix.net
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: RE: Auto Krafters Inc...
> Date: Tuesday, November 11, 1997 4:50 PM
>
> Bill,

> I have dealt with this co. The are very good and will try to

> help on problems when the need arises. I have had stuff shipped to me and

> have picked up parts at the spring and fall Carlisle shows. They always
> seem friendly and like to meet the people that they sell to when they
can.
> Garry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:03:07 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: After market gauges

At 11:46 AM 11/11/97 -0500, sleddog wrote:
> i will put in an amp or volt meter some day, but haven't decided which is
better.

Why not both?

maybe i will, but as of yet don't have a real need for either.

>
>IMHO, a oil pressure is most important, followed by a tach and water temp.
>

Sounds like a wiener to me.

I am assuming that the oil pressure gauge uses the small plastic tubing,
have you ever had any problems with this tubing?

yes, it is mechanical gauges so it uses the small plastic tubing. as of
yet i have not had any problems with it. it has been in for 2 yrs now.
(my ford gets very few miles a year though.) it was actually one of those
temperary quick installations that ended up being permanant, so i didn't do
a real nice job on it. i did however do my best to protect the tubing
especially in places like as it passes thru the firewall. i find there is
always a lot of air in the tube, but don't know if that matters much.

sleddog

Thanks!

Later


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:31:16 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: 460 Heads..

Ok...I just got through slapping the pistons into my block. And thought
I would go ahead and bolt down the heads. BUT..I never marked which one
was for which side !! Can anybody give me some insight as to which is
for which side ?? I know it was stupid not too mark them. but its too
late for that now.

'71 460...one side has 3 bolt holes the other 2. I presently do not
have power steering in the truck but plan to someday. So which side
should I put the holes on. 3 on the drivers side ??

Thanks..Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:49:01 -0500
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: RE: How to cut sheetmetal

You might want to try one of those nibblers that hooks up to a drill I
have no experience with this but I have seen them in Harbor Freight
tools and Northern Hydralics and several other tool catalogs it says it
will hook up to any drill so you could use your cordless if you have
one.

Duke's
Fine 69

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 16:58:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: air in mech gauge line



always a lot of air in the tube, but don't know if that matters much.>>
It matters about as much as air in the brake lines, just without the
consequences. Air compresses, oil doesn't. The oil pressure works on
compressing the air first (simply put) before acting on the gauge diaphragm.
Soooo, you may have a gauge that reacts less quickly than someone's without
air in the line.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 17:53:06 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 460 Heads..

Brian & Jacque Milbrandt wrote:

> I would go ahead and bolt down the heads. BUT..I never marked which one
> was for which side !! Can anybody give me some insight as to which is
> for which side ?? I know it was stupid not too mark them. but its too
> late for that now.
>
> '71 460...one side has 3 bolt holes the other 2. I presently do not
> have power steering in the truck but plan to someday. So which side
> should I put the holes on. 3 on the drivers side ??
>
> Thanks..Brian


Brian,

I am not sure but I think the heads are swapable from side to side. Set
both heads on the bench as if they were on the engine, look at the left
side and count the holes ( size also ) do the same for the right. Now
rotate the heads as a pair so you would be looking at them from the back
if the holes look the same your O.K.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:29:37 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: RE: After market gauges

At 06:03 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am assuming that the oil pressure gauge uses the small plastic tubing,
>have you ever had any problems with this tubing?
>
>yes, it is mechanical gauges so it uses the small plastic tubing. as of
>yet i have not had any problems with it. it has been in for 2 yrs now.
> (my ford gets very few miles a year though.) it was actually one of those
>temperary quick installations that ended up being permanant, so i didn't do
>a real nice job on it. i did however do my best to protect the tubing
>especially in places like as it passes thru the firewall. i find there is
>always a lot of air in the tube, but don't know if that matters much.

You can go to Pep Boys, Western Auto, or a well stocked plumbing supply
place and get 1/8" copper tubing in the neighborhood of $0.69 a foot. I
ditched the cheap plastic tubing for something more reliable. Bends easy
and you can get the compression fittings where you buy the tubing. Or use
the fittings that came with the gauge. For extra protection, slide vacuum
hose over the copper.

To purge the air, simply take the fitting loose from the gauge and hold it
into a cup. Start the engine up and let it run till it runs smooth. Don't
worry about spraying oil everywhere. It's all pressure, not volume. It
will dribble out of the tubing. - at least with copper tubing.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:20:38 -0600
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Slipping C6 tranny

Ken,

After reading everyone's responses to your problem sounds like one of three
likely problems to me.

1) Crimped cooling line up by radiator
2) Loose or disconnected modulator line
3) Bad modulator

I just had my C6 rebuilt (don't even ask how much :-( it cost )and they
mentioned how surprised they were that it would shift from 2nd to 3rd when
the modulator was shot. Did the modulator get replaced during the last
rebuild? If not I would look at that first.

On a new note. Does anyone know of any cool Ford / Ford truck events in
Minnesota? Seems like most of the cool stuff on one coast or the other.
Major bummer if you can't travel much :-(

- -B

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:49:35 -0800
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Stuff For Sale

Ford Folks,

A friend has the following stuff for sale. I though it would interest
someone. Would someone forward this to the "older" Ford list.

Thanks Randy Collins

FOR SALE Weiand Stealth 429SCJ(Weiand 8021) intake manifold(brand new) with
Holley 800cfm Double Pumper carburetor, completely restored, re-colored and
rebuilt, $450; Ford Mustang 5.0 Disk Brake Rear End-79-93 Mustang
bolt-in(Same as offered in Ford SVO Catalog), 8.8 inch, 4 lug, Trac-Loc,
3.08 Ratio, 60 3/4 inches rotor face to rotor face,complete$650obo, or just
the disc brake assembley only, rotors(4lug), calipers and brackets, $395;
79 460 shortblock, standard bore,plus crank(3Y), standard crank, $250obo;

My friends name is Mike Brattland. He can be reached at
brattlan INETWORLD.NET or on his web page at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://204.216.57.25:80/~brattlan/.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:35:02 -0800
From: Doug Neely
Subject: 351C Gas mileage

Don,
I have a 2V Cleveland in a 74 Cougar XR7,don't know the
gearing, but it's mated to an FMX and weighs a ton ,no
make that 2 tons. On short trip driving it averages 15 mpg
on a work commute (26 miles mixed hwy/city) it averages 17.
These are Imperial gallons by the way, the engine has 120,000
miles on it and I'm the second owner,the only work I've done....


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