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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 03:50:33 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #346
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, November 11 1997 Volume 01 : Number 346



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

C-6 Slipping [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Slipping C6 tranny [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: How to cut sheet metal? [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: How to cut sheet metal? ["Bill Beyer" ]
Casting #'s [Don Grossman ]
RE: Air Conditioner Compressor [Tom Hogan ]
Cooling air at compressor [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Slipping C6 tranny ["George Shepherd" ]
FW: Cooling air at compressor [Adam Clever ]
AOD for 351C [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Casting #'s [Sleddog ]
Re: Cooling air at compressor [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Air Conditioner Compressor ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #345 [BORDRXR aol.com]
66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle [Keith Srb
Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle [Mike Schw]
Re: Slipping C6 tranny [DBrents105 aol.com]
Re: Air Conditioner Compressor [DBrents105 aol.com]
Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle [Floyd Ter]
Custom Classic Trucks [Stuart Varner ]
Re: Custom Classic Trucks [Ken Payne ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:38:52 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C-6 Slipping

KEN. I would change the filter and try her again. You have lost
pressure most likely. If it were the pump, mosty likely it would have
been a gradual thing - not instantly, as you described. If the filter
doesn't correct the shift, Then I would go for the valve body -
something sticking. If it is slow to engage from neutral and between
all gears, and the above couple of things don't cure it, I'm afraid
time and wear have overtaken your tranny. Time for a Major rebuild in
my opinion. Hope not.

level looks good and the color of the fluid is still red and clean.
When in gear it drives fine. Whenever the tranny goes to change
gears it takes a long time (3-4 seconds) and revs high. This started
quite suddenly on the way home Thursday. Before that there were never
any problems. I haven't driven it since except to confirm the
symptons today (ride around the block).

If someone could point me in the right direction I can fix it. I'm
up to just about anything short of a complete rebuild as long as I
have my shop manual. It really stinks that this had to happen on
the same day as the accident. I'm fairly certain that they're not
related as the impact was less than 10mph and the tranny coolant
lines have not broken.

Ken

Sorry about your "Baby" getting whacked. Good luck on both your bad
luck adventures.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 07:35:41 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Slipping C6 tranny

>From: Ken Payne
>Subject: Slipping C6 tranny
>
>I wish this were an engine problem because I probably would know
>how to diagnose it....
>
>My C6 tranny is slipping, but only between gear changes. The fluid
>level looks good and the color of the fluid is still red and clean.
>When in gear it drives fine. Whenever the tranny goes to change
>gears it takes a long time (3-4 seconds) and revs high. This started
>quite suddenly on the way home Thursday. Before that there were never
>any problems. I haven't driven it since except to confirm the
>symptons today (ride around the block).

Hey Ken, Sounds like it's time to look in on Your vacuum modulator
and its vacuum line. bet the hose is off or something.
You've got the symptoms...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 07:35:46 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: How to cut sheet metal?

>From: Don Grossman
>Subject: Re: How to cut sheet metal?
>
>sdelanty sonic.net wrote:

>> Anyway, the obvious easy cure is to cut out the old corner with a
>> torch, cutoff wheel, etc, and weld in another from the wreckers.
>>
>> The *problem* is getting the donor piece. The local wreckers won't
>> allow torches or gas powered tools...
>
>> Has anyone out there had any experiance cutting "real truck" sheet
>> metal with big tin snips? I might go buy/borrow a set of heavy duty ones
>> if they would work good...


>If it was a 65-66 you were working on I might be able to help. I do
>have one of those cabs laying arround and looking for a good home BTW.
>;-)

Hmmm, I don't 'spose that rear corner is the same, eh?


>A lower rear cab patch panel is available. It is in the Mac's
>catalog(finaly) and sells for 26.50. It only goes up 14" but that would
>save you some of the work. You could just fix the rest yourself with
>another piece of sheetmetal.

14"? Err, I need more like 24"...

>
>See if P-n-P is willing to sell you a complete cab, that whay you can
>have lots of extra parts. :P

NO Don! My garage/shed/driveway/yard is too full of stuff already!!
Unless I can keep it at YOur house... (-:

>
>My next guess would be to do the hack-saw or sawz-all blade thing.

I'm starting to think about big battery power.
I've got a 1200watt power inverter, I've got some deep cycle marine
batteries, I've got that big wooden cart.
Say, I've even got a sawzall!
I could come up with 120vac for plenty long to cut out what I need
with a sawzall, or some of those electric sheet metal shears.
(have to rent the shears.) [thanks for that idea, Keith!]

Do You think P'n'P would let me in with all that hardware, or would
they turn me away and laugh and mutter rude comments in spanish at me?

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:34:07 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: How to cut sheet metal?

I've had good luck in the past with a little cordless mini sawzall that
Makita makes. It's 9.6v and uses the same batteries as their drills. I used
it to cut a trailer hitch made of 1/8" steel channel off of a truck. It
took about 2.5 batteries but with the right blade it should work quite
well.

Eastwood also makes a couple of different hand snippers and nibblers that
they claim will cut even older sheet metal. I've never used them tho'.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:48:52 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Casting #'s

I have a set of casting numbers off of a 429 head

C8VE-E

Are these just plain regular early castings or something special?

And not casting related but,

If I were to get rid of a set of 4v Clevland heads what should I be
looking at? Not rebuilt just pulled from a used motor. Just looking to
sell 4v and pick up a set of 2v.

Does anyone have a roundabout idea of MPG a 351C 2v engine would get,
average driving habits, about 3K lbs car, five speed and 3.00 gears?

Just asking
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:09:25 -0800
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: RE: Air Conditioner Compressor

Keith,
The physical act of actually replacing the compressor is pretty much as
it appears when looking under the hood -- loosen the belts, undo the
bolts, put the new one in and reverse the process. Be careful when
removing the regrigerant hoses. The refrigerant will be under pressure.

The catch is what to do with the old refrigerant. If you still have a
charge then when you remove the hoses at the compressor it will be
vented to the atmosphere. Not an approved process. All AC shops are
currently required to have recovery equipment to capture the old freon.
You also now have a choice as to what to put back into the system.
Currently freon is not being manufactured and it is getting cost
prohibitive to obtain. There are replacements for freon that can be
used. Find a good parts guy or AC mechanic to talk to.

You may be able to work a deal with an AC mechanic to remove the old
freon then let you replace the compressor to save some labor cost. Then
you give the car back to him to check it for leaks and then charge the
system. To get a good charge they usually pull a vacuum on the system
to evacuate any air and moisture in the system. Freon does not wear out
over time. The recovery system usually filter and dry it and it can be
reused. At current prices the freon may be valuable to someone who does
not want to convert their system. I don't know of any buyback programs
though.

Good luck.

Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)



- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 18:01:25 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Air Conditioner Compressor

I need to replace the Air Conditioner Compressor on my 74 F250. Is this
something I could do, or is it better to let the shop handle this one?



Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:36:12 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Cooling air at compressor

>How about the condensor core from an air conditioning system?

Wish I'd thought of that. I have room, and sounds better than my
copper, even though I have no problem with the copper. Would an old
power steering cooler be enough reckon? They are only about 3" wide and
8" long as I recall. Seems like I have one hanging on a nail somewhere
in my shop.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:22:31 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Slipping C6 tranny

Is the slip on the 1-2 shift or the 2-3 shift. I think 2-3 has an
adjustment for the band.
If that doesn't do it, its rebuild time.

- ----------
> From: Ken Payne
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Slipping C6 tranny
> Date: Sunday, November 09, 1997 3:19 PM
>
> I wish this were an engine problem because I probably would know
> how to diagnose it....
>
> My C6 tranny is slipping, but only between gear changes. The fluid
> level looks good and the color of the fluid is still red and clean.
> When in gear it drives fine. Whenever the tranny goes to change
> gears it takes a long time (3-4 seconds) and revs high. This started
> quite suddenly on the way home Thursday. Before that there were never
> any problems. I haven't driven it since except to confirm the
> symptons today (ride around the block).
>
> If someone could point me in the right direction I can fix it. I'm
> up to just about anything short of a complete rebuild as long as I
> have my shop manual. It really stinks that this had to happen on
> the same day as the accident. I'm fairly certain that they're not
> related as the impact was less than 10mph and the tranny coolant
> lines have not broken.
>
> Ken
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 97 11:31:00 -0800
From: Adam Clever
Subject: FW: Cooling air at compressor

How about the condensor core from an air conditioning system?
Wish I'd thought of that. I have room, and sounds better than my
copper, even though I have no problem with the copper. Would an old
power steering cooler be enough reckon? They are only about 3" wide and>>

With all this cooling coil talk, I wonder will you install this coil right
at the compressor? Otherwise, wouldn't the air cool enough in the 2-4 feet
of tubing to get to the coil? Perhaps even cool too much that by the time
the air hits the coil it might condense inside the coil? Don't most tool
compressors just have a few of loops of tubing?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:08:53 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: AOD for 351C

>The last I remember reading on this is that the 351C has the same bell
housing bolt pattern as the 301. Is that correct? Will a later model
AOD
off a 301 fit? Will it hold up reasonably?

I have no personal experience with this and I'm not even positive that
the bellhousing bolt patterns are the same, but they are supposed to be
the same, if what I read is true. I'd personally prefer one off a 351W
rather than a 302. It just might be built a bit stronger here and
there. If it will stand the rigors in a 351W truck, I would think it
would stand up to a 351C. Be sure to get the earlier version that
shifts hydraulically and not electronically.

Good luck

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:09:33 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Casting #'s

- ----------
From: Don Grossman[SMTP:duckdon pacific.net]
Sent: Monday, November 10, 1997 12:48 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Casting #'s

I have a set of casting numbers off of a 429 head

C8VE-E

Are these just plain regular early castings or something special?

2 things make these castings better than later castings. smaller combustion chamber, and the lack of the thermactor holes. nothing else.

sleddog

And not casting related but,

If I were to get rid of a set of 4v Clevland heads what should I be
looking at? Not rebuilt just pulled from a used motor. Just looking to
sell 4v and pick up a set of 2v.

Does anyone have a roundabout idea of MPG a 351C 2v engine would get,
average driving habits, about 3K lbs car, five speed and 3.00 gears?

Just asking
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes, and now ON BOARD AIR!





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:10:42 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Cooling air at compressor

At 01:36 PM 11/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>How about the condensor core from an air conditioning system?
>
>Wish I'd thought of that. I have room, and sounds better than my
>copper, even though I have no problem with the copper. Would an old
>power steering cooler be enough reckon? They are only about 3" wide and
>8" long as I recall. Seems like I have one hanging on a nail somewhere
>in my shop.

The coolers on power steering systems are plumbed into the return (low
pressure) side of the pump. I don't think they were made for high pressure
applications. YMMV

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:37:39 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Compressor

Depends on whether you have the tools, including a vacuum pump. If you can
make a deal with an a/c shop to evacuate it, then allow you to do the work,
evacuate it again and fill it with freon, any mechanically inclined person
can do the mechanical part--it just that its against the law to evacuate it
into the atmosphere.

- ----------
> From: Keith Srb
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Air Conditioner Compressor
> Date: Sunday, November 09, 1997 7:01 PM
>
> I need to replace the Air Conditioner Compressor on my 74 F250. Is this
> something I could do, or is it better to let the shop handle this one?
>
>
>
> Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:23:34 -0500 (EST)
From: BORDRXR aol.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #345

In a message dated 97-11-10 09:11:05 EST, you write:


From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 1997 2:18 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Slipping C6 tranny


I wish this were an engine problem because I probably would know =

how to diagnose it....

My C6 tranny is slipping, but only between gear changes. The fluid =

level looks good and the color of the fluid is still red and clean. =

When in gear it drives fine. Whenever the tranny goes to change =

gears it takes a long time (3-4 seconds) and revs high. This started =

quite suddenly on the way home Thursday. Before that there were never =

any problems. I haven't driven it since except to confirm the
symptons today (ride around the block).

If someone could point me in the right direction I can fix it. I'm =

up to just about anything short of a complete rebuild as long as I =

have my shop manual. It really stinks that this had to happen on =

the same day as the accident. I'm fairly certain that they're not =

related as the impact was less than 10mph and the tranny coolant =

lines have not broken.

Ken

>>
Could just be the bands need adjusting . I had a similar prob a few years
back with a Ch*v power glide- one guy said the tranny needed rebuilding -
another tightened the bands for 25 bucks and prob was fixed.BG

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 16:01:06 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle

Hi all,

My 66 F100 has a problem pulling away from stop lights. It stumbles,
sometimes will die. I have to rev the engine up to 1500 RPM's or so before
I let the clutch out. (yes I know how to drive a vehicle with a with a
clutch, I learned to drive in this pickup in 1974.) If I don't, I run the
risk of killing the engine. The truck has had this problem for as long as
I can remember. I have put several rebuilt carb's on it. I have rebuilt
the carb my self several times. I have had the shop hook it up to the
"engine analyzer", they said everything appeared to be with in spec for
this engine, whatever that means. I have tried advancing the time a little,
I have tried retarding the timing a little. I have double and triple
checked the distributor to make sure the advance was working, it is.

A week and half ago I replaced the stock style muffle with a two chamber,
turbo muffler. Now it stumbles worse than it ever did.

Anybody got any other suggestions???

Thanks!

Later

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:21:49 -0600
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle

At 04:01 PM 11/10/97 -0700, you wrote:

>this engine, whatever that means. I have tried advancing the time a little,
>I have tried retarding the timing a little. I have double and triple
>checked the distributor to make sure the advance was working, it is.
>>A week and half ago I replaced the stock style muffle with a two chamber,
>turbo muffler. Now it stumbles worse than it ever did.
>
>Anybody got any other suggestions???

Done a compression check? Low compression could cause the engine to stall
at low RPMs under a load.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:29:54 -0500 (EST)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: Slipping C6 tranny

With only 30,000 miles on it, I would check all I could before I pulled it.
Slipping when it shifts is because the clutches are not locking. The most
common reason for this is worn clutches, but it can also happen when the
fluid pressure is not correct. Before you pull it, I would pull the pan and
see if the filter looks clogged. Also be sure that fluid is flowing through
the cooling lines. There is not much else you can check that relates to your
simptoms without pulling it, except to hook up a pressure guage, but even if
the guage shows low pressure, you still have to pull it to fix it. If you do
rebuild it yourself, be sure to check the front pump very carefully. Also
check all of the clutch drums with air pressure to be sure that they are
working properly before reinstalling them. Also install a rebuilt torque
converter ($24.95 here in Atlanta). A lot of people reuse the old torque
converter and have problems. I have rebuilt a lot of C6s (and C4s, FMXs,
AODs, and A4lds). I think that the C6 is the best transmission Ford ever
made. Don't give up on it. Good Luck.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:37:14 -0500 (EST)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Compressor

This sort of depends on how experienced you are. It is not a real tough job,
but there are a few things to be mindful of. If I were doing it, I would
flush the lines and replace the dryer as well. Be sure to add some oil to
replace what is lost. You will need a set of guages and a vacuum pump. You
will also need some Freon 12. This is getting very expensive and you need a
license to buy it. If you get started and get stuck, or if you need step by
step help, we are here. Good Luck.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:48:23 -0600
From: Floyd Terrell
Subject: Re: 66 F100 - 240 I6 - Model 1100 1bbl Carb stumbling off idle

I had a simalar problem with a '65 240 6, after rebuilding the carb
(with no good results),
a friend suggested checking for a vacuum leak......waller..........

Replased the intake/exaust manifold gasket and fixed the problem

Floyd

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:26:58 -0800
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: Custom Classic Trucks

Anyone get the Dec 1997 issue of Custom Classic Trucks? There is a nice
spread about The F-100 SuperNats in Pigeon Forge, TN from this spring.
Some really nice Ford rides!! I Really , really, really want to go....


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