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Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 03:50:32 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #343
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, November 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 343



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: 351M Power >400+ 10:1? ["Dave Resch"]
Beef AOD [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: 400 small block ["Dave Resch"]
boring and stroking your beast. [Sleddog ]
Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark] [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: AOD 351 C ["George Shepherd" ]
Re:fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #337 351M P [GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE]
Re: New Duraspark question [danadeb pacbell.net]

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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 12:42:08 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 351M Power >400+ 10:1?

>The other is a suggestion by Pat Ganahl in "Ford
>Performance" to use replacement Cleveland pistons (TRW
>L-2397F) with bushed rods and floating pins, which will yield
>about 10:1 CR by his math. In earlier threads dealing with the
>351M/400 engine I've been hoping someone would have tried
>this combination and comment on it. Anyone else have thoughts
>on pumping up the 400 block this way or actually built one this
>way?
Yo Woody:

Are you referring to the TRW L-2379F? According to my sources, that piston
is only good for 8.9:1 in a 351C 2V head (76.2cc chambers) or 10.2:1 in a
351C 4V head (62.8cc chambers). The best compression you could hope for in
a 400 with that particular piston would be around 9.6:1 (w/ stock 78.4cc
chambers).

You could use a slightly more aggressive piston (say, a Keith Black #177
hypereutectic) designed to produce 11.1:1 in a small chamber 351C 4V. With
some polishing and cleaning up the combustion chambers (bringing the
chamber volume up to about 80cc or so) you could wind up with a static
compression ratio of about 9.35:1 and still run ok on mid-octane pump gas
at altitude (you might need premium at sea level).

I think this would liven up that 400 real nice, and if you gave it a decent
cam (like a Comp Cams 252H or 260H) and a 600+ cfm carb (like an Edelbrock
1408) with the appropriate manifold, you'd have a heck of a nice motor
there for not a lot of bucks.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

P.S. Are you related to Doug Friesen of Accelerated Motion Performance in
Burnaby, BC Canada?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 15:41:19 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Beef AOD

>>I have seen several good AOD build ups from Ford Hi-Po, Super Ford and
>other variuos Mustang Mags. Want me to scratch around for the articles
>on how to beef them up? STU

Hey Stu. I'd be interested in these articles also. I don't have a
small block running, but I have both a 351W and a 351C 4V sitting in my
shop that I just might want to put in something some day. I always
want power, and economy would be a plus. My fax at work is;
Azie L Magnusson
(205)464-2145

I'm even willing to pay a small fee if you desire.

Thanks

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 15:35:51 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: 400 small block

>From: am14 chrysler.com
>Subject: 400 small block
>
>Does this mean I can drop a 400 crank/rod/piston assy in a
>351W block and have a 400 smallblock????? I've often

Yo Azie:

In a word, almost.

There is a stroker kit you can get for the 351W that uses a highly
"modified" 400 crank and yields a 416 cubic inch engine. The normal stroke
on the 400 crank is 4.00" and the modified stroker crank is 4.075". There
must be some overboring invloved to get up to that displacement, and I
think the kit also uses some special connecting rods (I think Mopar items).

Don't know how worthwhile (i.e., reliable and powerful) this conversion
would be, though.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 18:33:23 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: boring and stroking your beast.

hello all:

there's been alot of talk about boring and stroking here, particularly for
the 351M/400 family. well, for those of you who are power freaks, such as
myself, or just those who like to know all they can there is a good article
about the bore and stroke issue in the december issue of DRAG RACING
MONTHLY. though not ford specific, i think it has some good info.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 19:03:42 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: [Fwd: No spark from Duraspark]

Gary,
I have read in several sources that the wiring harnesses were wrong in
some cases. But the wire colors on the dist and module are all uniform
in every diagram I have seen.

According to Mr. Chilton and the site I posted, all modules:

White=cranking 12v (cranking retard makes it easier to crank the engine)
Red=running 12v
Orange and Purple=Dist signals
Green=dist neg term
black=ground from module to dist and chassis
blue(not on all modules)= transient voltage protection

When I did the swap I bought a BWD control module #PT313 and a rebuilt
1977 duraspark II dist. I tried to get a wiring harness from the junk
yard but could not find the right one so I made my own.( ford sells an
after market stock type connector for the dist end and module end of the
wiring harness, the 4 pin one and the 3 pin one.) all I did was hook the
red to the run wire at the ignition switch and the white to the start at
the ignition switch. Then I hooked up all of the other wires color to
color. Be careful not to hook the white wire to the wire that bypasses
the ballast resister you know the one that comes from the starter
solenoid. It has voltage in run or start, in run it is the same as is
supplied to the coil (6-8v)and in start it has 12v I don't know for sure
but it might be enough to allow the control module to go into retard. (
turn the key to run and check it with a volt meter, I spent 2 hours
tracing it until I realized where it went I thought I had a short
somewhere )


On a related note, I called the tech support at BWD automotive and they
said that the blue strain relief control module provides less then 5
degs or so retard at cranking and has no retard above 200 RPM ( doesn't
seem like much but every bit helps) he also said that there is another
control module that gives 17 deg retard at cranking and is used for 460
applications ( too bad I didn't call before I bought and installed the
one I have.) I don't recall the part number.

Good luck to all

Dana

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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 17:11:29 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: AOD 351 C

I'd like to know which mags(month and Pg#) or maybe get a copy from you.

- ----------
> From: Stuart Varner
> To: Fordtrucks
> Subject: AOD 351 C
> Date: Friday, November 07, 1997 9:58 AM
>
> I have seen several good AOD build ups from Ford Hi-Po, Super Ford and
> other variuos Mustang Mags. Want me to scratch around for the articles
> on how to beef them up? STU
> Nuke GM! ford-trucks.boom
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 22:25:02, -0500
From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
Subject: Re:fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #337 351M P

sleddog

I don't know. I never drive it under 2000 RPM.

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 19:28:22 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: New Duraspark question

Tom Hogan wrote:
>
> I was looking at the duraspark page listed below and they say that
> Duraspark 2 system used the large diameter rotor cap. My '76 has an
> electronic ignition with the magnetic pickup. It also has the small
> diameter distributor cap. I thought it was a duraspark unit. The web
> page mentions a duraspark 2, do I have a duraspark 1? Oh wise sages of
> the list pour your knowledge upon me!!



Tom,
My sources say 1974 to 1976 were called "breaker less" 1977 to 80 were
Dura spark I or II ( Dura spark I was a California item with higher coil
charging current)


Gary is correct about the dist cap the dura spark dist can take either
the old style (small) cap and related rotor or the adapter and the new
( large ) cap and related rotor I chose to stick with the small for now
( cost purposes only. another article I read suggested that the standard
breaker type coil only provides 20,000 volts or so and if you want to
take advantage of the dura spark II 40,000 volt capabilities then you
would need the dura spark II coil or an after market high output coil.....


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