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Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:05:33 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #319
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, October 29 1997 Volume 01 : Number 319



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Traffic?? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Cruise-O-Matic vs. C-series [John Strauss ]
Confused?! [John Strauss ]
Re: Confused About the Yblock!? [erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us]
RE: roller camshafts [Sleddog ]
Re: Confused About the Yblock!? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: roller camshafts [John MacNamara ]
carb to FI conversion [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabricat]
Re:What did I just buy? [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: What did I just buy? ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Re:What did I just buy? ["deconblu" ]
Re: Re:What did I just buy? [erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us]
Re: heater ["art l" ]
Re: What did I just buy? ["deconblu" ]
Re: heater ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Re:What did I just buy? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Distributor Vacuum Advance ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance ["deconblu" ]
Re: Heater Core Removal and Installation (was Heater) ["Bear"
Re: Re:What did I just buy? ["deconblu" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance ["deconblu" ]
351 W problems ["Karen and Melissa Lublin" ]
Re: 351 W problems [William Sabers ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance [danadeb pacbell.net]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 07:12:16 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Traffic??

214 messages? Is that the best you guys can do in one day??? :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:02:40 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Cruise-O-Matic vs. C-series

"Cruise-O-Matic" was used by Ford originally as the successor to
"Ford-O-Matic". In this case, it refers to the FMX transmission. However,
Ford continued to use "Cruise-O-Matic" in it's sales literature as a
marketing name for ANY automatic transmission even though by that time they
were using the C-series.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:09:20 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: Confused?!

>I need some opinions of what to do with my truck ('63 F100). My
>engine (292 Y-block) is dying and I have looked into rebuilding which will
>run me about ~$2000 (way to much for my taste!). I really love my truck
>and I don't want to sell. It is mainly all original with little to no
>customizing on it.
>Another thing that I have considered is putting in another engine
>(302 more than likely) and maybe switching out the transmission (I am not
>sure which engines will bolt up to my T87).
>My dilema lies on whether to leave the truck original (which might
>get kind of expensive) or to switch out the engine and tranny and have it
>not so original. Will switching out the engine/tranny make the truck less
>valuable in case one day I turn crazy and decide to sell it?
>
Jesus:
How did you arive at the $2000 figure? Was this a turnkey job or
do-it-yourself? I did my 1964 292 for around $1000 last year. I bought a
rebuilt short block from Southwestern Motor here in Austin for about $650
(gaskets included), put $200 into the heads at South Austin Machine Shop,
and spent another $150 on incidentals like paint, oil, fuel pump, etc. But
I assembled all these pieces myself. If you are looking for a turnkey job
it'll be quite a bit more.
I am with Gary - I vote for original. However, it's your truck. Just be
aware that the Y-block mounting setup is unlike the Windsor, or any other
modern engine. You will have to have new engine stands welded to your
frame. This is not only a hassle and expensive, it kind of permanently
ruins the originality of your truck. But you will get better power and
mileage out of a 302 over the 292. Your call. If it was mine I'd stay
with the 292 obviously since I already made that choice on my '64!
Good luck. Email me if you want more details on my engine build.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:06:56 EST
From: erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
Subject: Re: Confused About the Yblock!?

Hey Jesus,

> >I need some opinions of what to do with my truck ('63 F100). My
> >engine (292 Y-block) is dying and I have looked into rebuilding which will
> >run me about ~$2000 (way to much for my taste!). I really love my truck
> >and I don't want to sell. It is mainly all original with little to no
> >customizing on it.

I am with Gary and John....keep the 292. Most of the engine
discussions on this list are about the 'newer' Ford engines. Just
goes to show you that there're not too many Y-block folks out there,
or they're running so well that nobody needs to ask any pertinant
questions - yeah right!!!. I say BE DIFFERENT! ;-) But most
importantly, it is YOUR truck and you need to do what works for YOU.
My truck is pretty much stock, too, but I have been changing
(upgrading/mild hotrodding) it. I'm going for a "sleeper" or mostly
stock looking, but any modifications I do to it I make sure they can
be converted back relatively easily. I doubt that I ever will
change it back, 'cuz I really like the way it's going, but who knows?
Maybe my son someday will want it back close to stock like when his
great grandfather originally drove it? Anyways, that's what works
for me. I kinda got off track, so onto my point....

A suggestion to maybe consider is if you keep with the stock engine
mounts and setup, try finding another running Yblock at the junk yard
- - (keep in mind that it doesn't have to be a 292ci for it to drop
into place). Drop this "newer" engine in your truck in a weekend
then you can work on your original "tired" engine over time and save
the money to spend on it and spread the costs out over time so it
doesn't hit your wallet all at once. This is probably the easiest
and cheapest thing to do since you could use all your original parts
(generator, radiator, motor mounts, etc). After you get the
original motor rebuilt, then swap it back in. Your truck would only
be down for a weekend with each swap and the rest of the time, you're
rolling! This is what I hope to do. I've come across a couple of
these engines for sale for cheap, but they have been just a little
too far away from me to get ahold of economically..... but I've got
my eyes open for one nearby. (Supposedly the Y-block weighs 625#,
so it would cost a whole bunch of stamps to send it across the US!!)

(BTW: I live in So. Indiana. Does anybody have a 292 Y-block for
sale cheap within a few states to me? How about a stock set
of exhaust manifolds for my engine?). Just thought I'd ask since
we're on the Y-block subject! ;-)

Good luck and let us know what you finally do.
Eric

=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:12:39 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: roller camshafts

went to call ultra dyne today, the phone number is disconnected. anyone have a more current number?
thank you
sleddog

- ----------
From: woody[SMTP:wfriesen worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 1997 3:24 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: roller camshafts

It's taken awhile to dig through my accumulation of catalogs,but finally
found one listing what sounds like a streetable grind right off the shelf:

Ultradyne - specs 278/290 lobe separation 112 lift .641/.641
duration at .050 244/255 described as "popular street roller, good
bottom end & mid-range, power 2000-6500

Ultradyne is at 8678 Whitworth. Southaven, Mississippi 38671,

phone (601) 393-3214
Their prices are about double the more popular brands.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:30:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Confused About the Yblock!?

> From: erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:06:56 EST
> Subject: Re: Confused About the Yblock!?

> mounts and setup, try finding another running Yblock at the junk
> yard - (keep in mind that it doesn't have to be a 292ci for it to
> drop into place). Drop this "newer" engine in your truck in a
> weekend then you can work on your original "tired" engine over time
> and save the money to spend on it and spread the costs out over time

Yeah, try a 312 with tri power :-) Kid in school had one and at 8k
rpm threw the fan through the hood. Think it was in a 57 T-bird,
can't remember for sure?

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 09:53:15 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: roller camshafts

Sleddog wrote:

> went to call ultra dyne today, the phone number is disconnected. anyone have a more current number?
> thank you
> sleddog

If you can't get a newere number, try Camonics in the San Fernando Valley. He will grind anything you
want. Ph# 818 982 3445.

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

>
>
> ----------
> From: woody[SMTP:wfriesen worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 1997 3:24 PM
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: roller camshafts
>
> It's taken awhile to dig through my accumulation of catalogs,but finally
> found one listing what sounds like a streetable grind right off the shelf:
>
> Ultradyne - specs 278/290 lobe separation 112 lift .641/.641
> duration at .050 244/255 described as "popular street roller, good
> bottom end & mid-range, power 2000-6500
>
> Ultradyne is at 8678 Whitworth. Southaven, Mississippi 38671,
>
> phone (601) 393-3214
> Their prices are about double the more popular brands.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 97 13:55:44 EST
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
Subject: carb to FI conversion

Has anybody tried swapping fuel injection from a later model car or truck
to an older 302 (1980 Bronco)? Wondering what you might run into as far
as intake matching, sensor locating, and computer wiring. I know places
like Summit offer TB and TPI conversion packages, but $$! I had a guy
offer me a late 80s Mercury Marquis that had been used for a taxi and had
an ignition fire that burnt the dash, so they scrapped it. It had direct
injection though and the price was right (seems like it was around $600)
for the whole thing.

Just Wondering,
Pat
pharrell bae.uga.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:02:42 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re:What did I just buy?

> Hi Gang!
> Well there I was calling around for bushings to install the springs Marv
>gave and no one carried them. I pick up my two week old Truck Trader and
>there was a 1976 3/4 Ton utility bed truck for $1200.

>I gave
>him a down of $100 and told him I'll be back tomorrow. I didn't tell him I
>needed to check with you guys. It felt a little juvenile! :) TIA!
>Later!

Check with us??? Have You checked with Your wife yet?!! She's the one
You've got to deal with!! Now She's gotta park in the street so You
can have the driveway for Yer new toy...
Is it big enough for You to sleep in? (-:

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:03:55 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: What did I just buy?

>From: "deconblu"
>Subject: What did I just buy?
>
>says it's a F372 1976 and the VIN # F37YR. So gang what is an
>F372? I gave him a down of $100 and told him I'll be back
>tomorrow. I didn't tell him I needed to check with you guys. It felt a
>little juvenile! :) TIA!
Yo DB:

Juvenile? Us?? Naaah!

Speculation here. The F350 is ostensibly a 1-ton truck. I know that w/
the F250 series, F25 is a 3/4 ton 2wd truck and F26 is a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck.
I know w/ the F350 series, the same numbers are also used (at least on the
later 77-on vehicles), F35 is 2wd and F36 is 4x4.

I would guess that the F37 is a heavier duty, beefed up F350 (maybe up to 2
or 2.5-ton capacity?). I have seen double spring sets on some trucks Ford
used to call the F-Super Duty, which was one step up from the F350, but not
all the way to a big F series (F600 or more). They are available only as
chassis cabs (no pickup box). Still looks like a pickup cab, but on a
heavier frame and w/ heavier suspension. They are popular for tow trucks.

Anyway, that's my shot in the dark.

good luck w/ it.
Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:43:09 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Re:What did I just buy?

From Steve Delanty
> Check with us??? Have You checked with Your wife yet?!! She's the one
> You've got to deal with!! Now She's gotta park in the street so You
> can have the driveway for Yer new toy...
> Is it big enough for You to sleep in? (-:

Steve, your wisdom is beyond your years! We've (Teddi & I) talked about
a truck for doing the deliveries for a couple of weeks, looked at a few.
Most of the trucks we looked at were in bad shape, needing a trans, engine
or both for the same price. I showed her the ad and talked to her about it.
I was to go look at it and if I thought it was a good buy, go ahead and put
something down. Well needless to say IMHO it was a good buy. The body was in
good shape and it had fresh paint. The engine needed some top end work. I
could hear slight rocker tapping in the left bank and it smoked a little.
The truck was well taken care of on the outside but you could tell it lacked
proper maintenance. I can do overhauls if needed (sheet I built jet engines
for 20 years. piston engines are a piece of cake) once again IMHO some minor
head work is all it needed. OOPS, it needs tires!!! Well she put an end to
that foolishness! Rebuild an engine or trans, that's OK. But tires she just
won't stand for.
I don't want to offend our female members because I don't see this as a
woman thing. The best work partner I've had was a woman, the worst was a
man! This is a Teddi thing! So I'll shut-up while I'm still ahead. Maybe
later I can have some fun with this, now I'm a bit pissed. Please everyone
else have fun with it. It will help if I can laugh about it soon! :[

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:52:30 EST
From: erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
Subject: Re: Re:What did I just buy?

You wrote:
> OOPS, it needs tires!!! Well she put an end to
> that foolishness! Rebuild an engine or trans, that's OK. But tires she just
> won't stand for.

Bummer. I'll be nice and just say maybe instead of signing as you
did:
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

You shouldv'e signed off instead as:

"D'Blues"

(Hope it won't be for too long...)
;-)


Eric


=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:01:15 -0800
From: "art l"
Subject: Re: heater

Tom H
It is a 78, I have the ford service manual, and I have been looking at the
process of removing the core, looks like a whole day project. Now I just
need to find the time to work on it, I also need to pull the rear drums
floter rear), thats a pain in the ##. Thanks for the responces.
Art Lutz
78 F-250 XLT Ranger


>I forget, what year truck is this? If it is a 73 to 79 and you need a
>procedure to replace the core let me know. I have replaced the blower
>fan in mine (it was rusted and would occasionally 'scream' when I turned
> it on). You can service the heater core without disabling the A/C
>(venting the charge -- oops that wouldn't be environmentally friendly
>would it?) but having the factory procedure makes it much easier. Not
>really difficult but not intuitively obvious either. You have to go
>into the heater box from inside the cab -- NOT from the engine
>compartment. There should be a lable on the fan box in the engine
>compartment saying something to this effect. If it's cold where you are
>right now I would recommend finding a heated garage to do this work. It
>did take me all day to finish the job.
>Good Luck,
>Tom H
>San Francisco, California
>76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:05:50 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: What did I just buy?

>Speculation here. The F350 is ostensibly a 1-ton truck. I know that w/
>the F250 series, F25 is a 3/4 ton 2wd truck and F26 is a 3/4 ton 4x4 truck.
>I know w/ the F350 series, the same numbers are also used (at least on the
>later 77-on vehicles), F35 is 2wd and F36 is 4x4.
>
>I would guess that the F37 is a heavier duty, beefed up F350 (maybe up to 2
>or 2.5-ton capacity?). I have seen double spring sets on some trucks Ford
>used to call the F-Super Duty, which was one step up from the F350, but not
>all the way to a big F series (F600 or more). They are available only as
>chassis cabs (no pickup box). Still looks like a pickup cab, but on a
>heavier frame and w/ heavier suspension. They are popular for tow trucks.
>
>Anyway, that's my shot in the dark.
>
>good luck w/ it.
>Dave R. (M-block devotee)

Well Dave R., I think that is one hell of a shot.
You just described this truck to a tee! Looking at the frame (seeing how
I could bolt all this stuff to my '73!) it was a lot beefier, no way could
go on an F100.
Oh, Oh! Getting bummed. Got to go! :)

- ----->Juvenile? Us?? Naaah!

I am too! I'm going to hold her breath, until you say I am! :)


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:33:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: heater

> From: "art l"
> Subject: Re: heater
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:01:15 -0800

> It is a 78, I have the ford service manual, and I have been
> looking at the
> process of removing the core, looks like a whole day project. Now I

I'm old and rusty but I think it all comes off from under the hood?
Seems like a few bolts, two heater hoses and a wire last time I did
it? Or was that the 75 van, or the 73 van, or the 68 PU,
or..............Dang! I hate being old!

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:39:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Re:What did I just buy?

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Re:What did I just buy?
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:43:09 -0800

> > Check with us??? Have You checked with Your wife yet?!! She's

> I don't want to offend our female members because I don't see
> this as a
> woman thing.

We were just picking on old men on the bronco list (to which group I
belong) and a female member suggested her hubby was in for it cuz he
made a snide remark about her (all in good fun tho).

This incedent may be funny some day but the fact that women have
trouble with the practical side of issues like these has caused me a
great deal of grief over the years. Now that I'm an old man I ignore
the complaints but still try to make sure my projects have some
merrit. The 78 bronco was in place of a new vehicle which I HAVE
to have and which I would not have enjoyed nearly as much to get back
and forth to work for at least a couple more years. The fact that I
spend time (most important) and money on things to make it run better
or drive more nicely seem like a waste to her since it does, in fact,
run. The fact she has a two year old T-bird which has $375 payments
but requires no maintenance doesn't enter her head??

Wind noise, oil leaks, bald tires, u-joints, ring gears are things I
should be able to live with till we get the siding on the house, new
furniture, interior trim and walls done etc., all things which can,
IMHO, wait if my ride needs to be fixed. Oh, and I've been working
12 hrs, 6-7 days since Jan and 10 hrs, 6 days is normal and built and
landscaped a 30' x 48' pole barn (with plumbing for bath) over the
last 12 mos as well. (wasn't in my plan this year but the land
around me has been developed and my treasure pile has to be housed or
liquidated so you know what choice that leaves right?)

I will say that her mitigating influence has prevented me from
entering into a project hastily but it has also influenced decisions
which set me back unnecessarily as well. Her condition is a factor
so I try to ignore my feelings and go on, giving her the benefit of
the doubt but that doesn't make it easy in any case :-(

Sorry, I guess this doesn't cheer anybody up does it? Hope you can
get your $100 back :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:59:52 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Distributor Vacuum Advance

How's everyone today????

I have a '77 F150 w/ a 400. The distributor has the dual vacuum
advance. I don't have any of the Spark Delay Valves or the any of
the Ported Vacuum Switches. I know the vacuum sources from the
intake and carb. Now, correct me if I am wrong, the distributor
receives vacuum from the carb until the coolant temp. reaches about
235 deg. F. Then, the PVS's switch vaccum from the carb side to
intake side and the distributor at the intake port receives vacuum,
therefore retarding the timing a bit to reduce detonation.
If anyone has ideas on how to set up a rigged advance system w/out
the SDV's and other mumbo jumbo, or if I am just getting into a
problem, let me know.
M. Dustin Thomas
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG
'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper
Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:05:23 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

I'll give it a shot.
Hook the outer V/A port to the "S" port on the carb, the inner V/A port
leave open. The inner port is to retard timing during deceleration to burn
valves. :)

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: MICHAEL THOMAS
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 12:53 PM
Subject: Distributor Vacuum Advance



>How's everyone today????
>
> I have a '77 F150 w/ a 400. The distributor has the dual vacuum
>advance. I don't have any of the Spark Delay Valves or the any of
>the Ported Vacuum Switches. I know the vacuum sources from the
>intake and carb. Now, correct me if I am wrong, the distributor
>receives vacuum from the carb until the coolant temp. reaches about
>235 deg. F. Then, the PVS's switch vaccum from the carb side to
>intake side and the distributor at the intake port receives vacuum,
>therefore retarding the timing a bit to reduce detonation.
>If anyone has ideas on how to set up a rigged advance system w/out
>the SDV's and other mumbo jumbo, or if I am just getting into a
>problem, let me know.
>M. Dustin Thomas
>mdthomas nc.edu
>KB9OGG
>'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes
>'91 G*C Sonoma 4-popper
>Never enough time to do it
>right at first, but plenty
>of time to do it over.
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:34:08 -0600
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: Heater Core Removal and Installation (was Heater)

It is about a 2 hour project. There is three nuts to remove from under the
hood, one above the heater fan, one under the fan and the last one is 6-8
inches from the center of the fire wall at the same level as the intake.
Also under the hood the heater hoses at the fire wall (remember which is top
and which is bottom) disconnect the two wires that go to the fan, one is
plugged in and the other is screwed to the firewall. Then go inside the cab
and disconnect the two cables that go from the heater controls to the heater
box and unplug the wires that plug into the front. Then start wiggling it
out. Once you get it out you can look on the firewall side of the box and
remove the piece of tin that is around the heater hose connections and the
heater core can then be pulled out. When putting it back together make use
of some silicone to replace the sealant on the heater panel and on the nuts
that you removed from under the hood (don't silicone the ground wire for the
fan).
Any questions feel free to ask. I have done this once or twice. :)

- -----Original Message-----
From: art l
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: heater


>Tom H
> It is a 78, I have the ford service manual, and I have been looking at
the
>process of removing the core, looks like a whole day project. Now I just
>need to find the time to work on it, I also need to pull the rear drums
> floter rear), thats a pain in the ##. Thanks for the responces.
>Art Lutz
>78 F-250 XLT Ranger
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:38:24 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Re:What did I just buy?

>Bummer. I'll be nice and just say maybe instead of signing as you
>did:
>> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
>
>You shouldv'e signed off instead as:
>
>"D'Blues"
>
>(Hope it won't be for too long...)
> ;-)

You and me both!

D'Blues (-:

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/ / ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:26:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:05:23 -0800

> I'll give it a shot.
> Hook the outer V/A port to the "S" port on the carb, the inner
> V/A port
> leave open. The inner port is to retard timing during deceleration
> to burn valves. :)

I was just going to suggest going to the dura spark II but I think
that's what you already have. The other option, not mentioned so far
is to go to the single port vac if you can get the screws out without
breaking them off in the housing :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:15:37 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>I was just going to suggest going to the dura spark II but I think
>that's what you already have.

I didn't even think anything about it until I asked what spark plug and
gap I should use. You said I had mixed matched a pretty wide margin. I
started looking up what you were talking about and found ignorance is bliss!
(: Oh yea, thanks for the recommendation of the splitfires. I'm getting 30
miles more to the gallon of gas and it blows Z1's off like their standing
still! (:

> The other option, not mentioned so far
>is to go to the single port vac if you can get the screws out without
>breaking them off in the housing :-)

Is this a parts store rack type item? I've been thinking about checking
it out when I go the the parts store, but I'm always here when I think about
it! (:
Your not suppose to break them off? OOP's :]

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----

To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance



>> From: "deconblu"
>> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance
>> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:05:23 -0800
>
>> I'll give it a shot.
>> Hook the outer V/A port to the "S" port on the carb, the inner
>> V/A port
>> leave open. The inner port is to retard timing during deceleration
>> to burn valves. :)
>

>
>Broncos really are supposed
>to have brakes aren't they?
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 18:23:49 -0500
From: "Karen and Melissa Lublin"
Subject: 351 W problems

HI all:

I am in the process of working on a 1986 F-250 that the owner dropped a
1979 351 W in. The problem I am having is that when you start the truck
up and put it into gear, It will move a few feet or so, and then stall.
The problem is even worse when the truck has warmed up. The truck acts
like it is not getting gas. It runs really rough too. If anybody has
any Ideas on what this could be, please e-mail me directly. Thanks.

Chris "Lube" Lublin
lublin tir.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:36:09 -0600 (CST)
From: William Sabers
Subject: Re: 351 W problems

I looked at a '92 Bronco a year or so back that did the same thing. The
guy who bought the beast said he changed the plugs, wires, ignition
module, dist. cap. He did not get any results until he dumped the fuel
tank, cleaned it, installed a new fuel pump, as well as change the
gasoline filters etc... before it worked right.

Usually with carb units, the "stalling" comes from too much gas...
Does it smoke??? Black smoke will usually indicate there is too much gas
going through...

Just my $.02 worth
Wsabers

> Karen and Melissa Lublin wrote:

> HI all:
>
> I am in the process of working on a 1986 F-250 that the owner dropped a
> 1979 351 W in. The problem I am having is that when you start the truck
> up and put it into gear, It will move a few feet or so, and then stall.
> The problem is even worse when the truck has warmed up. The truck acts
> like it is not getting gas. It runs really rough too. If anybody has
> any Ideas on what this could be, please e-mail me directly. Thanks.
>
> Chris "Lube" Lublin
> lublin tir.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 19:05:35 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

MICHAEL THOMAS wrote:
>
> How's everyone today????
>
> I have a '77 F150 w/ a 400. The distributor has the dual vacuum
> advance. I don't have any of the Spark Delay Valves or the any of
> the Ported Vacuum Switches. I know the vacuum sources from the
> intake and carb. Now, correct me if I am wrong, the distributor
> receives vacuum from the carb until the coolant temp. reaches about
> 235 deg. F. Then, the PVS's switch vaccum from the carb side to
> intake side and the distributor at the intake port receives vacuum,
> therefore retarding the timing a bit to reduce detonation.

My understanding from the diagrams in Chiltons book is that it is
designed to cool the engine in the event it gets too hot at idle.

If you were sitting in gear idling the engine would be at a low RPM
which would mean slow fan which would mean very little cooling. when the
temp gets to the magic temp the valve switches to manifold vac ( high at
idle ) this high vacuum then ADVANCES the timing and the engine speeds
up thus the fan speeds up thus more cooling thus the temp goes down and
your back to CARB vac. By this time the Bozo who didn't tie his load
down has moved everything out of the road and your on your way!


> If anyone has ideas on how to set up a rigged advance system w/out
> the SDV's and other mumbo jumbo, or if I am just getting into a
> problem, let me know.
> M. Dustin Thomas
> mdthomas ....


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