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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 03:50:29 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #307
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, October 23 1997 Volume 01 : Number 307



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

speed calculator url [Sleddog ]
Re: Shop Manuals ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: FE intake sealing. was Re: Header for a 360 [marko helix.net (marko m]
exhaust mans [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
re:heater ["art l" ]
Re: Engine Identification ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: '78 F series dash pads ["George Shepherd" ]
C6/C4/FMX [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark [marko helix.net (mark]
Re: Ammeter [DBrents105 aol.com]
Re: Brake question/Non truck [DBrents105 aol.com]
Re: 5 and 6 bolt bellhousing for 289 [DBrents105 aol.com]
Re: Plugs and Carbs ["deconblu" ]
Re: Plugs and Carbs ["deconblu" ]
Autolite 4100 [John MacNamara ]
Ammeter ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: Vacuum Questions [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Header for a 360 [John MacNamara ]
351C bellhousing pattern [sdelanty sonic.net]
Intake sealing [sdelanty sonic.net]
Intake sealing [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark [sdelanty sonic.net]
'64 Spring Re-do Q's [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Shop Manuals [GMPACHECO aol.com]
Re: 5 and 6 bolt bellhousing for 289 [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Intake sealing ["deconblu" ]
Re: exhaust mans ["Robert Mitchem" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 12:35:02 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: speed calculator url

hello all,

i found a good calculator (microsoft excel) for speed that uses the
transmission ratios and tire size and diff. ratio to calculate vehicle
speeds. the effect of the transfer case can be added in by changing the
tire size for example, a 33" tire would be 16.5 if the transfer case is a
2:1 ratio.

it works with manual trans, but can only give an idea of speed with an auto
trans as it doesn't take into account the converter slip.

the url is for anomymous ftp:

ftp://ftp.team.net/autocross/Axlecalc.xls

hope it is useful to someone.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 14:36:31 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Shop Manuals

> Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 08:47:00 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Re: Shop Manuals

> I called Faxon yesterday, about Vol 2 for my 74, and they told me
> that they do not sell directly to people, they to sell to only to
> business. Can you post their phone number again so I can see if I
> called the right company? Thanks!

I have a business card from them and will try to remember to bring it
in tomorrow.

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 12:24:29 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: FE intake sealing. was Re: Header for a 360

>> From: sdelanty sonic.net
>> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 18:49:34 -0700
>> Subject: FE intake sealing. was Re: Header for a 360
>
>> Yes, I agree very much with this. The stock cork gaskets can creep
>> out of place either during installation or afterwards.
>> The method marko describes here is the best way to go.
>
>I've had good luck with cork gaskets and brown aircraft sealer but
>it's harder to clean off later when you take it apart again. I just
>question the security of 1/4" of RTV with no support, that's pretty
>thick?
>

The cork gaskets are okay if you haven't milled your heads, or anything.
See, the cork strips are so tall that unless you have a brand new head and
undecked block and nice thick headgasket, your i.m. upper surface (valve
cover) will stick up much higher than the head valve cover surface and oil
will seep there.

Also, your manifold will sit higher meaning that the #$%* bolt holes won't
line up properly.

Finally, when you tighten the manifold down while it's sitting on a too-high
cork pedestal, the sides tend to bend out and down.

The silicone has much more give to it so as not to cause the manifold
(particularly important with aluminum) to warp.

Also, the RTV is very durable. The reason you let it set up some first (for
an hour or so) then torque it down is to give it the chance to become a
little hard, so when you torque down the 'fold it compresses somewhat. The
fact that the sealant is thus under some pressure and provided you let it
fully cure prior to startup, makes it a very good sealant.

One final thing: you will want to do this right. If you let the manifold
slip too much, or if you don't lay a perfect continuous bead, rip it off and
do it again. If you have a broken/uneven bead, you will have a leak.
Silicone is cheap and you'll have a whole tube of it so try to get it right.
You will probably have to buy two tubes to have one thick nozzle and one
thin one, cause you have to lay the thick bead first.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 12:25:37 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: exhaust mans

Somebody said they had cast iron headers for a 390 for sale. Who was it and
would they please let me know how much and where they are?


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 13:23:41 -0700
From: "art l"
Subject: re:heater

George,Gary: I am not sure what drain would be plugged, I'm looking in
my 78 service manual and it doesn't show a drain. Do you have any suggests
how I would fix the problem? Thanks for your help.
Art lutz
78 F-250 XLT Ranger

> From: "George Shepherd"
> Subject: Re: heater
> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:05:42 -0500
> Sounds like you have water getting in the plenum, but no heater core
> leak. If you have a/c and the drain is plugged water can build up.
> If no a/c the plenum is getting water from the outside.
That's really true. My 86 cougar got plugged up and water ran inside
all over the place and steamed up the windows as well as I recall.
Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!
- - -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 13:49:47 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Engine Identification

Probably wrong in this case a description matches a 292 Y block.

- ----------
> From: Stephen_Heidt transalta.com
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Engine Identification
> Date: Tuesday, October 21, 1997 8:43 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Stephen Heidt TRANSALTA
> 21/10/97 07:43 AM
>
> For: Jerry & Lisa
> Subject: Engine Identification
> The forth digit in the serial number indicates the engine size. "C" is a
> 390.
>
> Later
> Steve
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 13:51:11 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: '78 F series dash pads

JC Whitney offers a dash pad cover.

- ----------
> From: Gil Mahoney
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: '78 F series dash pads
> Date: Tuesday, October 21, 1997 10:21 AM
>
> Any one have a ideas on a possible source for new factory type dash pads?
> Seems they are discontinued by Ford. Looking for black.
> Thanks,
> Gil Mahoney
> '78 F350 Camper Spec
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 16:45:28 -0400
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C6/C4/FMX

I've always been under the impression that the FMX had the
'BELLHOUSING' seperate and the C6 and C4 both had integral
bellhousings. Also was under the impression that the only difference
between C4 and C5 was that the C5 was a C4 with lochup torqque conve
rter. > One way to tell between a C4 and C6 is that aC4 has a changeable
bellhousing. C6 doesn't. A C6 has a pan shape of a square with a 90
degree cut in the top right hand corner, if I am not mistaken.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 14:12:38 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

Ignition parts are so cheap for these things and since you never know what
youre getting with used stuff, here's what you do:

1. stop bothering to figure this stuff out about the cdi.

2. go to your parts store and buy a rebuilt duraspark II distributor
for an FE (352/360/390) about 45 bucks.

3. go to wal mart and buy a module box, I think the brand is "west",
for 25 bucks or so. While you're there, buy a cap for a 351, a rotor for a
351, an adaptor for a 351, and wires for a 351 or a 400 or a 460. All the
caps, base adaptors, and rotors are exactly the same for all distributors.
Thank Henry Ford for mass production techniques!! Oh yeah, don't bother
with the cap, rotor, and adaptor if your rebuilt dist already came with one.
You might, just to be 100% sure, want to buy a coil as well. Get one for a
78 mercury cougar/ford ltd with a 302, it fits.

4. go to the wreckers and get a wiring harness in good condition. Take
all the wires from the distributor and coil back to the firewall, and the
wires from the dogleg connector on the firewall to the box. You may have to
do a little soldering, but it's easy. Basically get as many plugs to/from
the ignition box and distributor as you can. Make sure you get the white
plastic connector that goes over the two posts on the coil.

5. Basically it all plugs together on your truck. Do you have a wiring
diagram? Even better is one of those basic wiring schematics that is in the
Haynes book (73-79 ford pickups) in the ignition section. Once you get all
this stuff send me another email and I will compare with my truck and give
you the correct color codes for the wires (don't have them quite memorized).

marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:30:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: Ammeter

The correct formula for measuring parallel resistors is R(total)=R1XR2XRn
divided by R1+R2+RN. The number of resistors is not relavent and will give an
incorrect answer.
If you are really need to do this, let me know and I can walk you through the
calculations and measurements to get exactly the amount of movement desired.
BTW I teach electronics. Good luck with your experiments. Let me know if you
need additional info.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:49:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: Brake question/Non truck

Is the pedal hard to press? Sound like you may have lost vacuum to the
booster. Did you check/change the vacum valve on the booster?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:55:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: 5 and 6 bolt bellhousing for 289

I am familiar with the 5 bolt/6 bolt thing on Mustangs. Early 65 models used
a 5 bolt pattern. Late 65 and later used a 6 bolt pattern. I have never seen
a bell housing that would work with both. The late 65 and later 289 engines
share the same bolt pattern with the 302, 351W, and 351C. BTW there is also a
"small block" version of the C6 transmission that will bolt up to these
engines.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 11:50:43 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

From: Dave Williams
> Deacon, Offy not only makes more than one spreadbore manifold for the
>302, they also make one that holds *two* Quadrajets on it.
>
> Not as wacky an idea as you'd expect. The small primaries ought to
>work just fine and the secondary setup is variable venturi so the
>massive CFM overkill isn't a problem.

From: John MacNamara
> *****Yes, $202 at Paw, P/N: OFF-6010-DP****

Finally good news today! I've been sitting in a Jury room all morning,
waiting to be excused from jury duty. Wore my best homeless suit (made $10
for putting fliers on cars :-)). Now I want to check on all these parts but
I need to go back. Life in America!
Thanks Dave & John, Already having a Q-Jet the price isn't that bad.
I'll check out local place's first for a price.
Well got to eat lunch and get back.
Later and Thanks!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 17:06:18 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

From: Dave Williams
> Deacon, Offy not only makes more than one spreadbore manifold for the
>302, they also make one that holds *two* Quadrajets on it.
>
> Not as wacky an idea as you'd expect. The small primaries ought to
>work just fine and the secondary setup is variable venturi so the
>massive CFM overkill isn't a problem.

From: John MacNamara
> *****Yes, $202 at Paw, P/N: OFF-6010-DP****

This is so cool. Good news is just flowing today. I was called for jury
duty today and they just released me. Seems Court is no place for a sense of
humor. But I got by and no one said anything about contempt!
I've got to be me! Just got to be me! I'm willing to bet that much
laughter has never been heard in that court room before!
I need to spend the next couple of days tracking down these parts. I did
find out that Chief Auto Parts carries high performance parts through their
catalog.
Thanks Dave & John and the rest of yous peoples for your insight and
generosity!
Later!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 17:42:28 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Autolite 4100

Hello everyone: While we're still discussing "spread bore" carbs and
intakes, does anyone have an Autolite 4100 carb core out there he'll
sell cheap. I believe these came on midyear Galaxies and the like.

A previous thread had a gentleman picking one up for $50 and rebuilding
for $20.

These are supposed to be pretty good carbs but I don't know much about
them.

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 20:37:27 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ammeter

John said:

>All the electronics theory that I've
>had tells me that when you have two or more resistors in parallel; you add

>their resistance and divide the sum by the number of resistors or legs,
i.e.,

John,

While your theory is absolutely correct, in this case we have spliced wire
into the shunt. This adds resistance in series. 1+1=2.
Thanks for your interest though. Is you ammeter working?

later
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:45:27 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Vacuum Questions

Gary wrote:







I agree with Gary ( bet he never thought I would say that ;)) you should
reduce your idle speed and check the vac on the timed port. If it is
still 4-8" then tighten the spring in your vacuum advance can so that
you get o deg advance at idle with the vac canister attached. This won't
change your spark curve gust when it comes in.








This is where Gary and I differ: an engine needs more advance at WOT or
heavy acceleration like 35 degs or so. At low rpm and WOT it needs less
advance, like ( and this is an estimate ) 25 degs. At Idle it needs much
less like 5 after ( yes I said after TDC, some "smog" motors are run
from the factory that way )to 8 before TDC, more is OK but not
necessary. A book I was reading recently indicated that you could
overheat an engine by not having enough advance at cursing speeds.


Another thought is that most carbs have an idle circuit then at a given
rpm/vacuum the normal run circuit takes over. If it won't idle at less
then 800 rpm maybe there is something wrong with the carb? Idle circuit
plugged?













Good luck

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 19:56:54 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Header for a 360

Robert Mitchem wrote:
>
> After market Headers should be the same for a, 352, 360, 390, 428 etc. The
> Hooker Super competition headers on my 390 and 428 FE have the 14 hole
> exhaust bolt pattern so they will fit any standard FE head and the 390 GT
> and 428 Cobra Jet head as well.
> If you are interested I have a set of factory cast iron headers for an FE
> Ford. They were original equipment on 406 and 427 Galaxies of 60-64.

Robert: I found your original post and it says they came on the 427
Galaxies so this is the ones I'm interested in. I don't want the block
hugging 390/428 manifolds as I have some already for my Mustang.

I believe this is what you have, but you through me off with the "short"
comment.
Could you give me the Cxxx number so I can identify them as correct.

Thanks
John

I
> think they would work in an older truck.
> ----------
> > From: SMOKEY5209 aol.com
> > To: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
> > Subject: Header for a 360
> > Date: Sunday, October 19, 1997 8:55 AM
> >
> > I have been reading the posts to this list and think they are all
> fantastic.
> > I have never thought of posting until now. I hope someone can help me.
> > I have been reading all the info on the differences between the 360 and
> the
> > 390 and all the similarities. I am rebuilding a 1970 360 and am in search
> of
> > a set of headers for this engine. I have contacted several companies and
> no
> > one has them. If the heads for the 360 and 390 are the same would a set
> of
> > headers for a 390 work?
> >
> > Also if anyone has any tips or tricks on rebuilding the 360 let me know.
> Also
> > any areas where there may have been problems. Will be waiting for your
> > replies.
> > Thanks again for a great list, and wealth of information.
> > Ed
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> > | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> > +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:49:55 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: 351C bellhousing pattern

>> the 351C has it's own pattern except for *a few* 400's? How
>> inconveniant... Interesting, I'll update my memory banks. (-:
>
>351C uses the modern small block pattern, same as 302 etc..
>
>Michigan roads, Broncos and
>Kidney belts, What a team!

Uh oh, now I've got one vote for 351C having the same bellhousing
pattern as windsor stuff, and one vote for not... Any tie breakers
out there?

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:49:57 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Intake sealing

>> Yes, I agree very much with this. The stock cork gaskets can creep
>> out of place either during installation or afterwards.
>> The method marko describes here is the best way to go.

>I've had good luck with cork gaskets and brown aircraft sealer but
>it's harder to clean off later when you take it apart again. I just
>question the security of 1/4" of RTV with no support, that's pretty
>thick?

Once the silicone sets up, it makes a very solid piece.
It's really only about .200" thick or less once everything is in place.
I used to use the stock corks with form-a-gasket #2 (da brown stuff),
but I had a couple unhappy experiances with this.

One of the problems with the stock corks is that if You ever have
the head gasket surface milled (and hopefully the intake gasket
face to match), then it makes the intake sit lower on the motor.
This doesn't leave enough room for the corks to live, and they want to
slither out when all is torqued down.

When I built my 390, I used the silicone to seal the 2-bbl manifold
down. It didn't leak. The heads had been milled about .015" on the
head gasket surface and the same on the intake surface.
When I swapped the 2-bbl for the D4TE 4-bbl manifold, I had a bunch of
the stock cork seals around, and was nearly out of silicone. So I used
the corks with da brown goo and a little silicone in the corners.
All was well for the first week or so. NO leaks.
Then one day when I got to work, I smelled that nasty burning oil scent
when I parked. When I got home, it STANK and was burning lots of oil off
the exhaust and was dripping oil on the ground. )-:
Yep, the rear cork had slid out of place on the drivers rear corner.
I couldn't see it, but a little probing with some wire verified it.
I cleaned everything up and packed a bunch of silicone into the hole
and managed to make it stop for 20K+ miles.
When I pulled the manifold last week to do the edelbrock swap, I got to
see what was up... About 2" of the end of the cork had squirted out of
the gap. It had been fine for the first week, but eventially it got away.

When I installed the e-brock, I used a 1/4" silicone bead, let it set
until it was quite firm, put a thin layer on top and bolted down the goods.
Let everything sit for 24 hours until it sets up good.

I expect no further leakage.

Also, the edelbrock instructions say NOT to use the stock corks, but
use silicone instead. (like I really trust edelbrock these days...)

I've used the corks with good results, but also had some bummers with
them. I doubt I'll ever use them again. Sillycone be bettah.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:50:01 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Intake sealing

>> clean hands to do this. I'm not sure how you get your hands clean
>> enough to do this.

>Wipe them on your pants, isn't that what every body does?

Hmmm, maybe I need to quit wearing shorts when I work...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:50:04 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

>I couldn't find a barnd name on the box. What little I know it is this.
>There is a "black box" attached to the fender. Some wires go from black
>box to the coil. I think, if memory is working, there are also some wires
>going to the distributor, not sure though, and i don't have the truck at
>work today so I can't go look. I do know that it is an aftermarket piece
>the prvious owner put on the truck.

A *good* CDI unit should make a nicer spark than the stock duraspark.
If the duraspark distributor will drive it, it might be worthwhile
to use the CDI unit. Definately ditch the points distributor tho...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:50:07 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: '64 Spring Re-do Q's

>My '64 F-100 1/2 ton CrewCab is in dire
>need of having the springs re-arced. I plan on
>taking it in to have it done. The bushings are
>shot, allowing considerable shift horizontally
>during turns! Very exciting!

Yeah, even after I had redone the entire front end on my '71, it still
wandered miserably.
After I did the rear springs and bushings, it drives great.
It's *amazing* how much the rear end "steers" when the bushings get shot.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 01:35:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: Shop Manuals

OK, I'll give it another shot!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:50:11 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: 5 and 6 bolt bellhousing for 289

>> I understand that ford made a bellhousing for a toploader 4 speed
>> that would match to either a 5 or 6 bolt 289 engine. I need to
>> verify years and models of Ford trucks this bellhousing was used on.

>Somebody splain to me about the 5 bolt/6 bolt thing?? I thought
>289's were made on the same block as the 302 or the 302 was a take
>off of the 289 including the tranny flange?

289's were 5 bolt until mid '64, then went to the 6 bolt pattern
we're all familiar with.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 23:25:16 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Intake sealing

From: Steve
> One of the problems with the stock corks is that if You ever have
> the head gasket surface milled (and hopefully the intake gasket
> face to match), then it makes the intake sit lower on the motor.
> This doesn't leave enough room for the corks to live, and they want to
> slither out when all is torqued down.

Now the truth comes out, why the Edelbrock didn't fit! ",


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 20:16:15 -0500
From: "Robert Mitchem"
Subject: Re: exhaust mans

They were mine and I want $175.00 plus UPS shipping. I'm in Gulfport MS....

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