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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:06:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #303
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, October 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 303



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 1/2 ton and Bronco front hubs ["Larry Coffman" ]
Re: Vacuum Line Diagrams ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Shop Manuals ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
64 body trim [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
Re: Medal Model of a '76 Ford Highboy... ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Engine Identification [John Strauss ]
Re: Engine Identification [Stephen_Heidt transalta.com]
'78 F series dash pads [Gil Mahoney ]
Re: Header for a 360 [marko ]
Re: '78 F series dash pads [John MacNamara ]
Re: Master Cylinder [Kevin Lindstedt ]
Re: Shop Manuals for 74 F250 [u0058543 hsc.hac.com]
Actual ammeter wiring [Richard Cherico ]
Re: C4 or C6 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Engine Identification [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Master Cylinder [sdelanty sonic.net]
CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark [Keith Srb
Re: Master Cylinder ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Bushings [JonP27604 aol.com]
Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Parts "GOLD MINE !" [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
Re: Various Trans Info ["Dave Resch"]
Shopping List ??/Timing gears ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears ["deconblu" ]
Re: Plugs and Carbs [JonP27604 aol.com]
Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark [Keith Srb
Re: C4 or C6 ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Plugs and Carbs [Tom Hogan ]
Re: Ammeter [Tom Hogan ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 06:19:56 -0400
From: "Larry Coffman"
Subject: Re: 1/2 ton and Bronco front hubs

If I understand this correctly, the front axle from the 74-79 wagoneer
should have the same bolt pattern " 5 x 5.5 " as your 71'. I dont think you
would have to change front hubs, just the axle.

- ----------
> From: Brazzadog aol.com
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 1/2 ton and Bronco front hubs
> Date: Monday, October 20, 1997 11:10 PM
>
> I'm sorry I wasn't very clear. I'll try to do better. The '78 F-250 had
> nothing to do with the question. I simply brought it up by way of
> introduction.
>
> Here is the deal. I have a '71 Kaiser/Jeep Wagoneer with a Dana 30 front
> axle and the stock Ford bolt pattern rims all the way around. I've been
told
> by a a "Jeep guy" that I can swap in a '74-'79 Dana 44 front axle out of
a
> Wagoneer and keep my bolt pattern if I discard the hub/rotor assembly and
use
> ones off an early full size bronco ('78-'79). I would feel better about
the
> swap if the hub/rotor didn't have to come from such a small range of
> vehicles.
>
> Now, here is where I'm guessing and need some help. It seems like the
front
> axle on these years of bronco was the same as the 1/2 ton pickups of the
same
> vintage. It also seems like the front axle went basically unchanged for
> broncos and 1/2 tons until Ford went with the TTB front axle. This would
> greatly widen the junkyard possibilities if I'm right, but I don't know
what
> year this takes me up to either. I also think I remember that the
broncos
> and 1/2 tons with the TTB were considered Dana 44s and therefore might
also
> have the same hub/rotor assembly as the '78-'79 bronco that I was
originally
> referred to. Here again, I don't know what year this takes me up to. So
> here is the bottom line -- were bronco and 1/2 ton front axles the same
and
> if so for how long?
>
> Sorry it has taken me so long to respond to your replies. I'm in digest
mode
> and sometimes have trouble retrieving the longer digests after
downloading.
>
> Ben
> PS -- I've got a buddy down the street who's working on an old Mercury
pickup
> and was very excited when I told him I found you guys. You may hear from
him
> soon.
>
> In a message dated 97-10-20 06:01:06 EDT, you write:
>
>
97
> IFS system? Why would you want to change from 1/2 ton to 1/2 ton on the
> front end? I could see putting a live axle in place of the TTB or
> changing the 1/2 ton TTB to a 3/4 ton with hubs and rotors. any way
> 76-86 should interchange from the spindle out. Remember the "should"
> Look at the parts an do a comparison just to make sure. All the
> spindles that I have seen are attached with 5 studs all in the same
> pattern. The caliper mount should stay and the hub simply is attached
> to the spidle so if the spindle will work so should the hub.
>
> Shake your head a little and share some more information with us on what
> you are doing. >>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:44:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Vacuum Line Diagrams

> From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
> Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 16:28:50 -0500
> Subject: Vacuum Line Diagrams

> claim they cannot get them. There is a diagram in Chilton's Ford
> Pick-ups 65-86 for the EGR system. Would this be a valid diagram???
> It is eqipped w/EGR and it doesn't have the vacuum switches in the
> intake manifold. They are plugged by bolts.

Service manuls have most of that info but they cost about $120 for
that vintage from a used book seller. I bought one because I have
two 78's and plan to keep them forever so it was a good investment.
Many big libraries have copys of many of these so there's an option
:-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:46:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Shop Manuals

> Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 13:36:52 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Shop Manuals

> Does anyone know of a place where I could replace Vol 2 of the Ford
> Shop Manuals for my 74? The previous owner lost Vol 2, the volume
> that covers the engine, but he had all of the other manuals.

I had a nice list but lost it when I did some house keeping but I got
mine from Faxon and they will sell portions when they have them.

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 06:48:15 -0500
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: 64 body trim

Im in need of the aluminum body side molding that runs from the front
fender to the end of the bed on my 64 f-100 shortbed . can anyone tell
me where I can buy nos or reproduction ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:16:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Medal Model of a '76 Ford Highboy...

> From: "Terry Sherman"
> Subject: Re: Medal Model of a '76 Ford Highboy...
> Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 15:32:00 -0500

> Where can I get a hold of Ruenel? Do they have a net site? Do they
> have a phone #? Please help!

Amazingly enough I couldn't find a refernece to them in three
differnent rags but I found the number in a FAQ at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dilligas.ee.vt.edu/frontbumper.htm#q&a

and the number they listed is: 1-800-338-2077

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:17:09 -0500
From: John Strauss
Subject: Engine Identification

>Hi all, we were hoping someone could help us decode a VIN. We have been
>looking for an FE engine and think we found one in a 1972 F100. We have
>never seen one before and would like some tips on identifying an FE. The
>engine in this truck had the exhaust crossover on the front of the
>engine. Is this a characteristic of this family of Ford engines? The
>number is:
> F10CE447882
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
Who told you this truck was a 1972? What you have there, according to the
VIN, is a 1964 model. This is borne out by a) the serial number, b) Engine
code C=292 V8, which was offered last in the 1964 model and was identified
by "C" code ONLY in this year, and c) the exhaust crossover goes around the
front on the 292 (Y-block) engine in the factory configuration. I have
never seen this on an FE.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:43:49 -0600
From: Stephen_Heidt transalta.com
Subject: Re: Engine Identification

Stephen Heidt TRANSALTA
21/10/97 07:43 AM

For: Jerry & Lisa
Subject: Engine Identification
The forth digit in the serial number indicates the engine size. "C" is a
390.

Later
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 97 07:21:09 -0800
From: Gil Mahoney
Subject: '78 F series dash pads

Any one have a ideas on a possible source for new factory type dash pads?
Seems they are discontinued by Ford. Looking for black.
Thanks,
Gil Mahoney
'78 F350 Camper Spec

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:21:58 -0700
From: marko
Subject: Re: Header for a 360

At 09:55 AM 10/19/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have been reading the posts to this list and think they are all fantastic.
>I have never thought of posting until now. I hope someone can help me.
>I have been reading all the info on the differences between the 360 and the
>390 and all the similarities. I am rebuilding a 1970 360 and am in search of
>a set of headers for this engine. I have contacted several companies and no
>one has them. If the heads for the 360 and 390 are the same would a set of
>headers for a 390 work?
>
>Also if anyone has any tips or tricks on rebuilding the 360 let me know. Also
>any areas where there may have been problems. Will be waiting for your
>replies.

Both blackjack and hedman make headers for this engine. If your parts guy
still can't get the codes, lemme know and I will pass them along.

Two things on the engine build:

1. Intake Manifold Gasket. You know the two cork things you are supposed
to use at the front annd back? Throw them away. Clean the surfaces
THOROUGHLY!! and instead lay a 1/4" bead of that blue stuff on , making it a
bit thicker on the corners. Let this bead cure for close to an hour (so
it's fairly hard on top) then lay a tiny (1/8") bead on top of it, then drop
the manifold on carefully. If you do this right your I.M. will not leak.
If you use the cork chances are it will.

2. Back crank seal. Make sure you use the two-piece rubber seal not
the rope kind. The rope kind came with the truck originally. You have to
clean out the groove really well for the thing to sit right.


Good luck!

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 07:58:38 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: '78 F series dash pads

Gil Mahoney wrote:

> Any one have a ideas on a possible source for new factory type dash pads?
> Seems they are discontinued by Ford. Looking for black.
> Thanks,
> Gil Mahoney
> '78 F350 Camper Spec

Gil: Dennis Carpenter has a black one for 77-79 for $400.(704) 786 8139

Good Luck

John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:15:28 -0500
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder

At 09:18 PM 10/20/97 -0700, you wrote:

>

>I'll probably start work this weekend, after I teach my wife how to help
>bleed the brakes. "Ok honey, push the pedal twice and HOOOOLLLD
>IT..........
>
I replaced front brakes (calipers, pads, rotors, etc...)on my 1978 F150
this past weekend and had my wife in the cab to do the same thing. So...
she's sitting in there do the pump thing and I'm getting no fluid out the
bleeder whatsoever. I'm scratching my head about this when I remembered
the proportioning valve has a pin that needs to be pulled out or pushed in
depending on the GVWR. O.K., all set, right? Still no fluid. I get off
the floor and while looking at the master cylinder (to see if the level is
moving in there as she pumps it) I realize that the sound of the pedal
pumping isn't that of the brakes, but rather the accelerator linkage! :-)
Moral of the story - make sure she pumps the correct pedal! BTW, brakes
bled very well then, and the truck stops real nicely.

Kevin Lindstedt
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 460/C6

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:51:47 -0700
From: u0058543 hsc.hac.com
Subject: Re: Shop Manuals for 74 F250

Keith asks:
>Does anyone know of a place where I could replace Vol 2 of the Ford Shop
>Manuals for my 74? The previous owner lost Vol 2, the volume that covers
>the engine, but he had all of the other manuals.

I have a similar request. I have Vol. 2 and 3 and need Vol 1.
Any help would be accepted. thanks.
Jeff Wallace in So. Cal.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:55:02 -0500
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: Actual ammeter wiring

So, you add wire to the shunt. When you actually swap in a deluxe dash
from the standard dash, what wires do put in the wiring harness? Do you
still use the idiot light wire? What wire will connect to each side of the
ammeter guage? I've examined my dash harness before and I know that I need
to switch a wire or two around in the harness to switch guage sets, but
which ones to I actually connect to the ammeter? If somebody would post a
complete set of instructions for this conversion, from adding to the shunt
to modifying the existing harness at the dash I'm sure it would be
appreciated by all. Thanks guys for your math and science skills!


rkc6793 unix.tamu.edu or bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:00:01 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C4 or C6

> From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 01:08:11, -0500
> Subject: C4 or C6

> or C6. Can someone tell me how to determine whether I have a C4 or
> C6?

All C-4's have separate bell housings, all C-6's have integral bell
housings :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:28:31 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Engine Identification

>
>Hi all, we were hoping someone could help us decode a VIN. We have been
>looking for an FE engine and think we found one in a 1972 F100. We have
>never seen one before and would like some tips on identifying an FE. The
>engine in this truck had the exhaust crossover on the front of the
>engine. Is this a characteristic of this family of Ford engines? The
>number is:
> F10CE447882
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Gerald & Lisa Hoel

Hmmm, the front exhaust crossover sounds like Y-block stuff, altho
I dunno what it would be doing in a '72... Never seen that on an FE,
does it look origional?

FE's usually have a big "352" cast on the front drivers side of da block,
just under the head.
Also look at the intake manifold. If it meets the head about halfway under
the valve cover, You got an FE.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

"There are 2 kinds of cars. Fords and can't affords..."
-Edward Towe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:28:36 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder

>Well, It looks like it may be time for me to delve into the world of
>brakes. I believe the master cylinder went out on my 76 F-150. I
>checked and the big resivoir (front disk circuit?????) is low (empty!).
>As the problem came up I noticed that sitting still with my foot on the
>brake the pedal would slowly travel to the floor. The last time I had a
>similar problem it turned out to be the MC. I looked tonight and I
>don't see where the fluit is going. None showing on either of the front
>brake assemblies or wheels. None on the rear end. None near the MC. I
>checked at my last oil change 6 months ago (no I don't drive it much,
>it's 1.1 miles to work now so I walk a lot) and the resivoir was full.
>
>Two questions:
>1. WHERE IS THE BRAKE FLUID GOING????!!!! Could it be going into the
>booster and would this cause a problem?

Yes, it can leak from the end seal into the booster. Been there
on my uncles bronco. It's bad for the booster diaghram. You should
replace the booster if it has much fluid in it.

>I'll probably start work this weekend, after I teach my wife how to help
>bleed the brakes. "Ok honey, push the pedal twice and HOOOOLLLD
>IT..........

Maybe it would be easier to have her open and close the bleader while
You push the pedal.. (-:

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

"There are 2 kinds of cars. Fords and can't affords..."
-Edward Towe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:25:04 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

I am going to convert my 74 F250 over to electronic iginiton. I am
wondering if I can remove the CDI Igintion Unit and toss it then?


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:34:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder

> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 10:15:28 -0500
> From: Kevin Lindstedt
> Subject: Re: Master Cylinder

> Moral of the story - make sure she pumps the correct pedal! BTW,
> brakes bled very well then, and the truck stops real nicely.

My 78 F-150 has nice brakes too which leads me to suspect that I just
haven't covered all the bases yet on the bronco :-(

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:03:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: JonP27604 aol.com
Subject: Re: Bushings

>Speaking of wheels, there is a 61-64 ( I haven't looked that close at it
>since not much is left) 1 ton just down the street. It still has the
>six lug wheels and tires on it. Only things left are the cab, frame,
>rear end and front end. Doors, fenders, interior, bed are all gone. I
>might go over and check it out if you are really in need for a set of
>wheels.

Don thanks for the info on bushings. I am interested in the wheels you talked
about but they may be a little too far away. I am in North Carolina. From
your address it looks like you are on the pacific coast. Too far for me to
drive in a weekend.

Jon E. Purut
JonP27604 aol.com

1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100 Parts Truck Hoping To Revive As F350 Super Duty
1977 F150 Parts Truck
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 13:10:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:25:04 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

> I am going to convert my 74 F250 over to electronic iginiton. I am
> wondering if I can remove the CDI Igintion Unit and toss it then?

What ignition are you putting in?

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:15:58 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Parts "GOLD MINE !"

Hey everybody, my son went to a boneyard to look for parts for a 69'
mach 1, I remember the place from my earlier days and the guy had any
part you ever needed for mustangs. He called me and told me this guy has
tons of old ford trucks. the guy specializes in fords, he has nothing
but Fords. I'm going to check it out on friday as its about 50
miles away. but here's the phone # and address for anyone interested.

Joe Kummer auto sales
5849 190th street east
Hastings, MN 55033
612-437-6787


Brian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:15:52 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Various Trans Info

>From: sdelanty sonic.net
>
>snippage
>
> 351C, 351M, 400, 429, 460, I *think* all use the same pattern. Someone
> educate me if I'm wrong please!
Yo Steve:
You are wrong (but not by much). The 351C has a different bell housing
bolt pattern from the other 335 series engines (351M/400) and the 385
series engines (429/460). Apparently in 1973 Galaxies and LTDs, there
were 400 engines w/ the FMX transmission that used a unique block (casting
D3AE-B) that shared the 351C bell housing bolt pattern.

>
>From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
>Subject: C4 or C6
>
>My '53 F100 has a '71 Torino engine and tranny. The engine is a 351C-
>4V and I think the tranny is a C6. I found it sitting in a garage in
>snippage

Yo Dan:
According to my Torino buddies, the 351C in a Torino was equipped with
either a C6 or an FMX (probably later years, like 73-on) transmission. You
probably have a C6, but maybe somebody w/ more automatic experience could
tell you how to tell the difference.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

P.S. Wife's new arthroscopic knee surgery recovery car: 1984 Crown Vic.
Base model (like a police car) w/ no power seats, no power locks, and roll
'em up yerself windows, throttle body injected 302 and automatic overdrive
(basically same drivetrain as a Mustang). After wife recovers, guess who
will be building up a 4 door Camaro fighter (heh heh). Any suggestions or
ideas, send me private email at dresch sybase.com. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:19:52 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

>From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears
>snippage
>
>Noise -- The steel ones are noisey from every thing I've heard but
>they make a teflon lined versoin which is quieter but introduces a
Yo Gary:

>From what I understand, the "quiet" gear drives use a different gear cut
that reduces the noise. They are all steel gears, though.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 14:13:11 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

> From: "Dave Resch"
> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:19:52 -0600
> Subject: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

> >Noise -- The steel ones are noisey from every thing I've heard but
> >they make a teflon lined versoin which is quieter but introduces a
> Yo Gary:
>
> >From what I understand, the "quiet" gear drives use a different
> >gear cut
> that reduces the noise. They are all steel gears, though.

Thanks Dave I'll have to keep that in mind when I get ready to do
this. With all the wind noise, tire noise, exhaust noise and the
radio I just don't need any more noise! :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 11:58:15 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

From: Gary, 78 BBB

>Thanks Dave I'll have to keep that in mind when I get ready to do
>this. With all the wind noise, tire noise, exhaust noise and the
>radio I just don't need any more noise! :-)

Some brake noise would cut the screaming noise from the passengers! :-)
What advantage is there to a gear drive over a chain. In earlier
discussions wasn't found there was only one gear drive on the market and it
needed some modifying to fit? Sorry my memory isn't what it use to be. That
is, I don't think it is, I can't remember! :-]


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 15:15:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: JonP27604 aol.com
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

Gary, The Autolite 4100 is not a spread bore. I am using an adaptor plate on
the origional intake.


Jon E. Purut
JonP27604 aol.com

1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100 Parts Truck Hoping To Revive As F350 Super Duty
1977 F150 Parts Truck
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:30:40 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Re: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark

At 01:10 PM 10/21/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 09:25:04 -0700
>> From: Keith Srb
>> Subject: CDI Igintion Unit and Converting to Dura Spark
>
>> I am going to convert my 74 F250 over to electronic iginiton. I am
>> wondering if I can remove the CDI Igintion Unit and toss it then?
>
>What ignition are you putting in?
>

Dura Spark.


>Michigan roads, Broncos and
>Kidney belts, What a team!
>
>-- Gary --
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
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Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 15:51:40 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Re: C4 or C6

Greetings to all--

One way to tell between a C4 and C6 is that aC4 has a changeable
bellhousing. C6 doesn't. A C6 has a pan shape of a square with a 90
degree cut in the top right hand corner, if I am not mistaken.

Other that size differances, hope it helps.
Dustin T.
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG
'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:49:01 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

I remember seeing and offy manifold at the parts house one time. It was
pretty much as is being described in this thread. One thing I do
remember is that it seemed that the runners were divided horizontally
and the upper part of the runner serviced one half of the carb
(primary?) and the lower part of the runner serviced the other half
(secondary). The plenum was divided from left to right instead of front
to back. This would separate the primaries from the secondaries and
create a small bore carb and small intake runners to maintain flow
velocity at low speeds and the larger bore secondaries had larger
runners to maintain flow at high speeds. Basically the runners were
not divided equally, the primaries had the larger volume of the runners.

Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does Offy make FE
manifolds? I was planning on an Edelbroke but after hearing about
Steve's problems and complaints from other sources about the thin
mounting flange I want to investigate other possibilities. This spread
bore idea sounds pretty good. Any more info on adapting it to an FE?

BTW, Steve, how is that Edelbroke doing? What kind of mileage did you
see going to Sac?


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

____________________________________________________________
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 08:54:37 EDT
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

Can you tell a little more about the Offy dual plane for spreadbores?
I was just wondering how they could use a separate plane just for the
secondaries, since one plane of a dual plane feeds 4 cylinders and the
other feeds the other 4 cylinders, whether it's fed from just the
primary
bore or from both primary and secondary on that side. By the way, I
definitely agree on the spreadbore concept. It seems it would be ideal
for a heavyweight small (302) engine full size Bronco like mine. I just
trashed my new Holley 600 cfm squarebore in favor of a Holley 2 barrel
with
a centerhung float that I picked up at a flea market! It's looking like
my mileage has gone from around 8 to 17 mpg! With not a lot of power
sacrificed. It's running with an adaptor on the Weiand intake.

Pat
pharrell bae.uga.edu

- - --- Begin Included Message ---

Gary (gpeters3 ford.com) states:

The advantage is high CFM at WOT but small primaries at cruise and
around town giving much better metering and better economy but with a
hidden punch in the secondaries. The Rochester has the largest
difference between primary and secondary I've seen so it's my first
choice. The Offy dual/dual plane manifold uses a separate plane for
the secondaries which is "made" for the spread bore design IMHO so
I'm keenly interested in it. The spread bore design allows for a
rediculous size carb with small carb metering.

- - --- End Included Message ---

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 12:59:15 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: Re: Ammeter

Steve, excellent suggestion on the #10 wire. I thought about it but
didn't want to have to coil up all that copper under the hood. After
reading Dale's experience I may try it myself. (Maybe not since mine is
working and there are other projects I need to take care of.) If I get
a chance I'll try to remeasure the shunt I have. I agree that the 1.2
ohms is WAY too high! That was the main reason for my disclaimer with
my description of what I did. The wire supplier I talked to said it was
difficult to get a good solder joint on nickle/copper which is why I
suspect high resistance in the joint. When I checked it I just slapped
the ohm meter on the connectons on the harness. It could have been poor
connection between the ohm meter and the harness that gave a false
reading.

________________________________________
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 18:29:38 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Ammeter

>Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 21:39:38 -0500
>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>Subject: Ammeter
>
>The latest chapter in the never ending saga of the Ford Ammeter.........
>
>Steve your suggestion the other day of using a piece of #10 wire as a shunt
>seemed too reasonable not to try. Besides, I've been kicking this around
>for a couple of weeks. Waiting for a power resistor from radio shack, etc.
>.... it was time to try something!!!!!

Hi Dale,
Yeah, at R values this low, plain old wire is a cheap, easy way to go!


>5) Replaced the #14 with 3 feet of #12 wire, (.002ohms/ft x 3=.006ohms).
>Pretty good meter action. A little more sensitive than my Dad's old '69
>Plymouth. Engine off all accessories, headlights, heater fan, etc. on
>produces about 2/3 scale movement. I still think that a low battery hard
>charge condition will peg the meter, but I'm going to try it this way for
>awhile.
>
>Note: The wire was added to the original shunt wire. I didn't remove any
>of the original shunt. I used crimp connectors. If you solder your
>connections your results my vary.

With resistances this low, obviously many factors can influence the
....


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