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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 03:50:26 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #293
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, October 17 1997 Volume 01 : Number 293



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: Headlight Problem ["Richard Mattox" ]
Re: Headlight problem. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Shopping List ??--roller rockers ["woody" ]
Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: '61 Frame VIN Location? [OldTrux aol.com]
Re: Headlight problem. [MNBigby aol.com]
IMHO ["Bear" ]
Ammeter ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: Headlight problem. ["Bear" ]
Re: IMHO [FOMOCONUT aol.com]
Re: Re Speedometer ["Bear" ]
Re: IMHO ["Bear" ]
Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. [HYDROSMITH aol.com]
Re: Plugs and Carbs [GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)]
Re: Strange Vibrations-360 [JA2TN aol.com]

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 17:58:41 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I

>Hello!
>
>I am in need of advice. I used to be a loyal points ignition fan. I
>just bought a '77 F150 w/a 400V8. Afew buddies have told me to dump
>the Dura Spark I system that is currently on it and go with a Accel
>or Mallory system. I am currently having a problem with poor spark
>and believe it to be a bad magnetic pickup in the distributor. I am
>low on money and I don't want to replace the whole system, yet I am
>solely dependent on the truck (due to the unfortunate fact that I
>also own a Ch*vy S-10) and I don't want the thing to quit on me.
>
>

You should be able to get a complete rebuilt distributor from your parts
place for around 45 bucks.

I would also check your coil and wires with an ohmmeter. Trouble is, I
forget what resistance the components should be, so hopefully somebody else
on this list will let both of us know what are acceptable resistance ranges
on coil and on wires. Coil should be off the scale from post to center, I
think. Wires, I think, shud be a few hundred ohms.

As far as the ignition box is concerned, they either work or they don't.

Check the conductivity of the wires from the plugs at the box and their
destinations (distributor and coil). Should be near zero ohms resistance.

Check the voltage at the power lead to the box. Should be battery voltage.

Make sure your box is grounded properly. Check to see that the inner fender
is properly grounded (again, resistance between fender and minus terminal on
battery should be zero ohms).

If all this checks out you could then start to suspect your distributor.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4 360 e.i.
67 merc m100 points

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 08:26:00 -0500
From: "Richard Mattox"
Subject: RE: Headlight Problem

John Peck
I had the same problem with my 71 F100. Someone told me to replace the
light switch & it would fix it. Replaced the switch and haven't had
another problem. Someone correct me if this is wrong, but it is my
understanding that there is a breaker in the light switch take will
cause the lights to act like that.

ROM

71 F100 Sport Custom

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 18:59:23 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Headlight problem.

>A few months ago I picked up my first truck, a 69 F100 360. I've done real
>well in cleaning up the engine and making it run well. I have a few
>problems to iron out but the biggest headache is I can't drive it at
>night. All lights go out for about 5-10 seconds intermittently. A real
>pain in you know what. I've checked all connections and am trying to find
>any common grounds but no luck. My Chiltons manual has no schematics and
>Haynes has no listings. If I had a schematic I could probably find it. I
>DO NOT want to unwrap wire bundles until I know what I am looking for. If
>anyone can help me I know this place can.
>
>Appreciate any response.
>

This is an easy one. I'ts real common with the old Ford headlight
switches. After the lights have been on a while the contacts heat up
and lose contact. Lights out... Once it cools for a few seconds they
come back on. They only go out once in a while at first, but with time
they'll flash every 30 seconds or so.
Ford used this style switch in lotsa 60's-70's trucks and cars.

I've fixed this "flashing headlight" syndrome 4 times.
My '71 F100, my Dads '70 Bronco, my grandmothers '67 Galaxie,
and a roommates '69? F250.

I'd lay good odds that's Your problem also. The switch is fairly
inexpensive and easy to replace.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:41:46 -0600
From: "woody"
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??--roller rockers

> IMHO the better rockers are well worth
> it with a cam over .525 lift, 280 dur. and the rollers are definatley
woth
> it even just for the savings in friction and they should last longer. i
am
> currently using harland sharp roller rockers (under $200 when i got them)

> 1.73 ratio and am very pleased. i think they are the best for the buck,
> bet there are better ones available. if you don't see a listing for the
> 460, the BB chevy ones are the same AFAIK.

Kevin,

Can they be used "as is"--since you mention Chevy ones are the same, are
screw-in studs required or other head machine work before they can be
installed?

Woody
wfriesen worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:28:19 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I

>Hello!
>
>I am in need of advice. I used to be a loyal points ignition fan. I
>just bought a '77 F150 w/a 400V8. Afew buddies have told me to dump
>the Dura Spark I system that is currently on it and go with a Accel
>or Mallory system. I am currently having a problem with poor spark
>and believe it to be a bad magnetic pickup in the distributor. I am
>low on money and I don't want to replace the whole system, yet I am
>solely dependent on the truck (due to the unfortunate fact that I
>also own a Ch*vy S-10) and I don't want the thing to quit on me.


I like the duraspark system, and use(d) it on my '71 F100.
After a while I went to an MSD6 system using the stock duraspark
distributor. It works very good. And it was cheap. (-:

If You have an erratically firng spark or miss, it *could* be the
pickup coil. If the spark fires regularely, but is just weak then
That's NOT a pickup coil problem.
Maybe a bad coil or low voltage to the system for some reason.
Or bad plug wires?
A badly worn distributor shaft will cause erratic timing and
sometimes a miss.

You can go to the wrecking yard and get the duraspark boxes and coils
for a dime a dozen. Grab a pickup coil or whole ditributor while
You're there.

What are Your symptoms? What do You mean by "poor spark"?

I wouldn't ditch the duraspark setup unless I had extra money I
needed to be rid of. They work quite well and are dirt cheap.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:31:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: OldTrux aol.com
Subject: Re: '61 Frame VIN Location?

In a message dated 97-10-16 10:27:40 EDT, you write:


compartment and didn't see anything. Is this the right spot? >>

My '66 4x4 has a vin on the top flange of the right frame rail behind the
3rd crossmember.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:48:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: MNBigby aol.com
Subject: Re: Headlight problem.

Sounds like you may need to change out your headlight switch. I had a 1970
f100 that the headlights and running lights would go out on it after a minute
or so. I could not figure out what was causing my problem until I reached
under the dash and put the back of my hand on the switch which was pretty
darn hot. Hope this helps. Mike Bigby 66f100 custom cab

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:00:14 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: IMHO

IMHO? = In My Honest Opinion?
Just trying to make sure I have this right....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:01:52 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ammeter

Steve said......

>Still, the numbers don't quite work for me.
>If the meter is 1 ohm, and only takes 0.9 amps (lets call it 1 amp) to
achieve
>full deflection, than how can it be handling 85% of the current?
>1.2 amps would bury the meter!
> With 1 amp=full scale and a 1 ohm gauge resistance, it would take a
shunt
> resistance of about .034 ohms to achieve full scale at 30 amps.
> Sooo, wazzup here?

uuuuuhhhhh........85% is a bogus number. Saw it right after I sent the
email, tried to figure out where it came from but??????? Brain is
claiming "out of system resources" error. :-)

Actually works out to 55% through the meter if you use 1.2 ohm shunt value
and 0.7 ohm meter resistance.............maybe.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:13:43 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: Headlight problem.

I have had that problem before also. I first tried a dimmer switch. That
was a waste of money then I tried the head light switch. BINGO that was the
problem they have worked fine since then. I have since replaced them for
the same reason in my new 78 F-150, a 90 T-Bird, a 76 Torino, an 83
Econoline and a 93 T-Bird. So I assume that it is a common problem and alot
of people may spend alot of time and money trying to figure this out.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Peck
To: Ford Trucks
Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 3:02 PM
Subject: Headlight problem.


>A few months ago I picked up my first truck, a 69 F100 360. I've done real
>well in cleaning up the engine and making it run well. I have a few
>problems to iron out but the biggest headache is I can't drive it at
>night. All lights go out for about 5-10 seconds intermittently. A real
>pain in you know what. I've checked all connections and am trying to find
>any common grounds but no luck. My Chiltons manual has no schematics and
>Haynes has no listings. If I had a schematic I could probably find it. I
>DO NOT want to unwrap wire bundles until I know what I am looking for. If
>anyone can help me I know this place can.
>
>Appreciate any response.
>
>John Peck
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 23:34:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: FOMOCONUT aol.com
Subject: Re: IMHO

IMHO= In My Humble Opinion

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:50:36 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: Re Speedometer

So where do I get "Autometer Gauges" that seems like a great idea! Am I
correct in assuming that this is an after market unit?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Hogan
To: 'Ford Trucks'
Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 1:11 PM
Subject: Re Speedometer



>If your going to change the cluster anyway how about a full set (ALL of
>them) of Autometer guages with a tach set in an aluminum insert in the
>original location ............ ;o)
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:52:11 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: IMHO

Thank you! : )
- -----Original Message-----
From: FOMOCONUT aol.com
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: IMHO


>IMHO= In My Humble Opinion
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 01:17:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: HYDROSMITH aol.com
Subject: Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

I say go with the the best and our favorite, FORD. I have often thought of
getting a so called ch*vy classic and doing a FORD upgrade to it . It would
really cheese off those generic motors guys who ruin good FORDS with thier
junk drivetrains.

Just had to sound off on that one!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 01:17:52, -0500
From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

I put a Carter AFB on my 351C. It's much better than a Holley. When
you get the Ford linkage you will also need a special Cable Mounting
Bracket. A 625 CFM is a little small for a 460. I think the equation
is
Displacement in Cu. In/3456 X
Maximum RPM

For a 460 6000 RPM this is 798.6. A 750 CFM carb would be fine
unless you are planning to go to Manifold, Cam and Headers. Then you
may want to go to 825 CFM or larger. If you are too large drivability
suffers. I like Bosch Platinum Plugs myself, but I wouldn't bother
with gimmicky splitfires. There is a shop in So. California that will
rebuild and test your Holley for $155.00. E-me and I'll look up his
number.

Re: Ammeter

I agree 1.2 Ohms is much too high for a meter shunt. Most Alternators
are capable of 60 Amps or greater. The Ammeter will probably see less
than 1 Amp 60 Amps. That means the shunt has to carry 59 Amps a
few hundred millivolts. The value of the shunt should be in the
milliohm range. You should measure the Ammeter resistance, but to
measure milliohm resistances you need a special 4 terminal Ohmmeter.


Dan Lee
'53 F100 351C-4V(Carter)

------------------------------....


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