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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 18:22:01 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #292
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, October 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 292



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

MSD coil mounting. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re Speedometer [Tom Hogan ]
Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE [Keith Srb ]
Re: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Strange Vibrations-360 ["Dave Resch"]
'66 grill parts ["Eric J. Kulig" ]
Re: heater ["art l" ]
[Fwd: chevy 51] [Stuart Varner ]
Headlight problem. ["John Peck" ]
Advice on '77 Dura Spark I ["MICHAEL THOMAS" ]
Re: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE ["Robert Mitchem"
Ammeter. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Speedometer ["Dave Resch"]
RE: '61 Frame VIN Location ["Gillespie, John D."
RE: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. [Tom Hogan
Re:'61 Frame VIN Location [FORDTRKNUT aol.com]
Thanks [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
Ken's responses to Alt.. [Bill03bt aol.com]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:18:59 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: MSD coil mounting.

> if you use a blaster coil it
>should be mounted upright, not on its side.


Hey sleddog,
What's the philosophy with the coil mounting?
I've had my blaster mounted on it's side for over a year now.
Why is upright better? I don't recall anything in the MSD manual..


>if you use the ford destributer get the large rotor and cap it prevents
>crossfire much better.
>and one commonly missed thing is do not allow the #7 & #8 plug wires to be
>next to each other as they will crossfire.

Yes! The large cap and rotor made a BIG difference with my
FE duraspark/MSD setup. I *highly* recommend it.
I've seen problems with the adjacent firing #7 & #8 wires also.
Good plug wire routing is critical with a high energy ign system.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:19:37 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: Re Speedometer

Bear,
As far as I know it doesn't matter what the top reading on the spedo is
most all of them are calbrated to the same value. Something like 100
(1000?) turns equals 1 mile. If you have that number of turns per
minuet the spedo reads 60 mph. Changing to a spedo with a higher
readout will still have the same error in the reading. To fix your
problem you will have to change the spedo readout gear in the
transmission. You might check with a spedometer calibration shop or
someone else might know how to calculate what size gear you need.
Different gears are available to compensate for different rear end
ratios and tire sizes available from the factory. This way the factory
only had to build one spedo.

As to the instrument cluster, It should bolt in. You will need to
change the sender for the oil pressure because the one you have is an
on/off type to turn the light on and off. You will also need to change
the wiring harness that connects the alternator, voltage regulator and
the starter solenoid. The one for the lamp connects to the top terminal
on the regulator. The one for the meter does not and also has a shunt
that is in place to protect the meter. See the archives for my listings
on why the ammeter does not work. I don't know if the harness that the
orignal cluster pluggs into will have to be changed. I don't think so.

If your going to change the cluster anyway how about a full set (ALL of
them) of Autometer guages with a tach set in an aluminum insert in the
original location ............ ;o)


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)


- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 06:26:55 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: Speedometer

I have a 78 F-150 Ranger it now has a 351W with a FMX transmission from
a 76
Torino. My speedometer is off, I do 45 when everyone else is at 55 -
60
and 25when every one else does 30-35. Is there an easy way to fix this?
Also when I was at the junkyard on Wednesday I saw a 76 F-150 with a
100
mph speedometer while mine is only a 80. I was thinking that if I put
that
in it might help my problem because the Torino had a 120 speedo. Also I
have a ALT light and an OIL light if I get a cluster with gauges does it
just plug in or does it need something else added in.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:44:57 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE

I have to preplace the Timing Chain and Gears in my 74 F250. While I am in
there I fiugred I might as well swap out the camshaft.

This is a list of the parts that i am going to replace while I am in
there. Camshaft, Lifters, Push Rods, Valve Springs and Retainers, Timing
Chain and Gears, Water Pump, Distributor, converting to DuraSpark, K&N Air
Filter, Headers, Dual Exhaust with Flow Master Mufflers.

I am going to reuse the Holley 4bbl Carb and stock 4bbl manifold for now, I
might change those in the future.

The Goal for this exersize is: Increase Torque from 0-5000 RPM with engine
seldom seeing rpm's above 4000, unless I am towing my Boat up the Ariziona
Mountains, passing some slow motorhome, or an under powered C*evy.

Is this right or do I have it backwards, Torque is what you feel in the
seat of your pants and horsepower is what gives you the top end speed, MPH,
correct?

Anyway these are the Cams I am looking at.

Comp Cams High Energy Series.

Duration Lift
Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
268 268 .494 .494

Edelbroke, as Steve put it, performer Cam's

Duration Lift
Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
194 204 .460 .480

Crane Energizer Cams

Duration Lift
Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
266 266 .516 .516 Dur .050
210/210 Deg Lobe Sep 110

I don't understand some of this stuff like Dur .050 and Deg Lobe Sep, Mean
nothing to me. Can someone explain them.

This truck isn't a daily driver. I might drive it once a week just to keep
everything lubricated. It is going to be used a lot for towing the boat to
the lake, and going camping. O.K. Fine, it would also be nice to blow away
some of the C*evy's in my neighborhood.


Comments? Suggestions?


Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:55:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE

> Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:44:57 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE

> Is this right or do I have it backwards, Torque is what you feel in
> the seat of your pants and horsepower is what gives you the top end
> speed, MPH, correct?

Torque is the bottom, top and middle line here, HP is simply a
measurement of torque in a given time frame or amount of work done so
HP increases as rpm increases but torque depends on the engines
ability to turn over under load and doesn't care about time.

> Anyway these are the Cams I am looking at.

The last cam you listed was close IMHO to an RV cam. 270 duration
and .520 lift is a good low end torque cam. Because the first few
degrees of the lobe are the ramp and tend to take the slack out of
the valve train, most companies measure duration at .050 lift to
standardize the measurement and make it more meaningfull.

I wish someone made a roller cam with these specs :-(

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 12:53:25 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Strange Vibrations-360

>From: Richard Cherico
>Subject: Strange Vibrations-360
>
>about 3k on the motor since the rebuild. Anyway, it's got this bad
>vibration right at 2000RPM. You start to feel it at 1800RPM, it rattles
>your teeth at 2000RPM, but it's gone by 2200RPM. Wierd. I was

Yo Ric:

Years back, my dad had a similar problem after rebuilding a 352 in a '67
F250. (Fond mems, at age 15, that was my first complete engine rebuild!)

Turns out, in our case, it was the clutch disc that got some cleaning
solvent on it and threw it out of balance.

I'd speculate that your problem is either the harmonic damper, flywheel, or
some other rotating mass on your engine (maybe clutch disk or flex
plate??).

Good luck (and gig 'em Ags).

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:08:57 EST
From: "Eric J. Kulig"
Subject: '66 grill parts

Hey folks,

I just got back from my favorite lunchtime activity at my favorite
metal salvage yard.....

He's got a '66 pick-up there that has pretty much been gutted (boy, I
got some neat things too!) Anyways, with all this talk of grills and
such lately, I noticed this one has a painted grill in decent shape,
and also the F-O-R-D chrome letters that fit into the valence above
the grill. I seem to recall awhile back somebody needing these
letters but I don't know from what year or who it was.

This truck is bigger than a 1/2 ton (sorry, there's no VIN plate to
help me tell) but I think the letters would fit many models, and the
grill would probably fit 1/2 ton '66.......

This guy is VERY resonable in his prices (he only has the cars in the
yard of various metal piles for the monthly crushing and recycling).
Well, you guessed it, he's crushing this weekend! Speak REAL soon or
it'll be too late. I probably could get there again this Saturday
morn and pick the stuff if needed. But you have to let me know ASAP.
I've got so much great help and hard-to-find-parts for my truck from
this list that I thought I might be able to return a favor to another
list member.

It's also go a pretty decent hood, but that would be a
little cost prohibitive to ship it out of Indiana to So. California!
(Sorry)

Eric
email me privately at both addresses to be sure I get the email in
time:
erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us
petunia indy.net

=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 10:51:36 -0700
From: "art l"
Subject: Re: heater

Thanks for the warning Eric, I plan on getting it fixed as soon as possible.
Luckly I live in the desert and haven't had to use my heater yet, I had
only noticed it because I put in the new thermostate and was testing the
heater. When I'm driving with the heater off there is no smell or steam,
and I'm still driving with the window down and sliding window open, should
be about 85 deg today. Thanks again Eric.

I have been trying to talk a friend of mine into buying a F-150 that is
for sale in his complex. I think its a 78 and it is a Explorer. Does
anyone know what the Explorer package included? The guy wants $1000, says
it just had head work, body looks good,haven't herd it run yet. My friend
likes Ch**eys, but I'm trying to turn him from the dark side.
Art Lutz

78 F-250 XLT Ranger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:45:29 -0700
From: Stuart Varner
Subject: [Fwd: chevy 51]

Message-ID:
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 08:13:55 -0700
From: Stuart Varner
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: chevy 51
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM! NUKE GM!
KIDDING!
I have always had this burning desire to take a really nice bodied GM
car with a bad a% 427 FE FORD MOTOR......show up at super Chevy show
and kick the s*&% out of every rat motored gm livin.

Thought about putting in a FORD motor? The thought of that really gives
me a desire to NUKE GM! In a very fast way. Food for thought!

Stu

P.S. Did I mention, NUKE GM!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:19:14 -0400
From: "John Peck"
Subject: Headlight problem.

A few months ago I picked up my first truck, a 69 F100 360. I've done real
well in cleaning up the engine and making it run well. I have a few
problems to iron out but the biggest headache is I can't drive it at
night. All lights go out for about 5-10 seconds intermittently. A real
pain in you know what. I've checked all connections and am trying to find
any common grounds but no luck. My Chiltons manual has no schematics and
Haynes has no listings. If I had a schematic I could probably find it. I
DO NOT want to unwrap wire bundles until I know what I am looking for. If
anyone can help me I know this place can.

Appreciate any response.

John Peck

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 16:21:07 -0500
From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
Subject: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I

Hello!

I am in need of advice. I used to be a loyal points ignition fan. I
just bought a '77 F150 w/a 400V8. Afew buddies have told me to dump
the Dura Spark I system that is currently on it and go with a Accel
or Mallory system. I am currently having a problem with poor spark
and believe it to be a bad magnetic pickup in the distributor. I am
low on money and I don't want to replace the whole system, yet I am
solely dependent on the truck (due to the unfortunate fact that I
also own a Ch*vy S-10) and I don't want the thing to quit on me.

I am new, and this program is great!!!
Dustin T.
mdthomas nc.edu
KB9OGG
'77 F150 Ranger 400 cubes

Never enough time to do it
right at first, but plenty
of time to do it over.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 15:04:01 -0500
From: "Robert Mitchem"
Subject: Re: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE

I've built a 390 and 428 FE and in both motors I used the crane 272 RV
cam. Using 390 GT heads stock intake and a Holley 600 I noticed a very
large improvement. Idle quality is excellent with only a hint of an after
market cam. The kit comes with lifters for less than 100.00 dollars.

- ----------
> From: Keith Srb
> To: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
> Cc: herbie netvalue.net
> Subject: Choosing a Camshaft for a 74 F250 390FE
> Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 1:44 PM
>
> I have to preplace the Timing Chain and Gears in my 74 F250. While I am
in
> there I fiugred I might as well swap out the camshaft.
>
> This is a list of the parts that i am going to replace while I am in
> there. Camshaft, Lifters, Push Rods, Valve Springs and Retainers, Timing
> Chain and Gears, Water Pump, Distributor, converting to DuraSpark, K&N
Air
> Filter, Headers, Dual Exhaust with Flow Master Mufflers.
>
> I am going to reuse the Holley 4bbl Carb and stock 4bbl manifold for now,
I
> might change those in the future.
>
> The Goal for this exersize is: Increase Torque from 0-5000 RPM with
engine
> seldom seeing rpm's above 4000, unless I am towing my Boat up the
Ariziona
> Mountains, passing some slow motorhome, or an under powered C*evy.
>
> Is this right or do I have it backwards, Torque is what you feel in the
> seat of your pants and horsepower is what gives you the top end speed,
MPH,
> correct?
>
> Anyway these are the Cams I am looking at.
>
> Comp Cams High Energy Series.
>
> Duration Lift
> Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
> 268 268 .494 .494
>
> Edelbroke, as Steve put it, performer Cam's
>
> Duration Lift
> Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
> 194 204 .460 .480
>
> Crane Energizer Cams
>
> Duration Lift
> Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
> 266 266 .516 .516 Dur .050
> 210/210 Deg Lobe Sep 110
>
> I don't understand some of this stuff like Dur .050 and Deg Lobe Sep,
Mean
> nothing to me. Can someone explain them.
>
> This truck isn't a daily driver. I might drive it once a week just to
keep
> everything lubricated. It is going to be used a lot for towing the boat
to
> the lake, and going camping. O.K. Fine, it would also be nice to blow
away
> some of the C*evy's in my neighborhood.
>
>
> Comments? Suggestions?
>
>
> Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:33:48 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Ammeter.

Well, sometimes curiosity gets the better of me, so I determined
to figure out what's with this Ford ammeter setup.

It just so happens that I have a gauge cluster from a 69 F100 (same
as my 71) lying around and it has an ammeter in it instead of an
idiot light.
I propped it up in the living room, grabbed my big adjustable power
supply, my 2 favorite DVOM's, a bunch of test leads and a calculator.

So, here's what I learned. You guys are right, the meter is
low resistance. Mine measured right at 0.3 ohms.
It took almost exactly 1 amp (or 330mV) to drive it to full scale.
(about what you guys got.)

So.. with 1 amp = full scale and a resistance of 0.3 ohms, it would
require a shunt of 0.01 ohms to make the meter read FS at 30 amps.
Now 0.01 ohms is a pretty low value... Not much resistance at all.

If the charge system is to handle 30 amps continuously, it should use
a #10awg wire to handle the load.
My chart shows the resistance of #10 stranded soft or annealed copper
wire to be 1.038 ohms per 1000 ft. *Tinned* stranded soft drawn wire
is 1.060 ohms/K ft, and solid conductor soft copper is 1.018 ohms/K ft.
Lets call it 1 ohm per 1000 ft.
Not gonna argue about 2-6% inaccuracy for *these* gauges... (-:

So.. to make a 0.01 ohm shunt out of #10 copper wire requires about 10 ft.
So a 10 ft, #10awg copper wire for a shunt ought to make the gauge read
full scale at about 30 amps.

Think I got it figured out what *my* gauge needs for a shunt.
What did You use for a shunt on Yours again? How did You measure it?
Where does it live? It doesn't NEED to be under the dash...

Gettin it figured out,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 13:30:30 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Speedometer

>From: "Bear"
>Subject: Speedometer
>
>in it might help my problem because the Torino had a 120 speedo.
>Also I have a ALT light and an OIL light if I get a cluster with gauges
>does it just plug in or does it need something else added in.
Yo Bear:

I switched out the original instrument cluster in my truck, which had the
idiot lights, for one w/ gauges. What I had to change was:

1. The plug that goes into the printed circuit on the back of the
instrument panel to connect the wiring harness. I had to get the plug end
of the wiring harness on the donor vehicle for that. I had to pull out the
wires in my truck's harness from the original plug and change their
positions on the new plug to get everything working properly.

2. Change the oil pressure sending unit on the engine from an on-off switch
(idiot light) type to the variable resistance (gauge) type.

3. Change the alt light circuit to an ammeter circuit. If you don't, the
ammeter will peg every time you turn on the ignition switch. I still
haven't completed this part of the conversion on my truck. I just
disconnected the ammeter until I can figure out what I need to do.
Meanwhile, following the ammeter thread on this list, I figure with my
ammeter disconnected, it's about as functional as an original installation
from the factory. :-)

Good luck w/ your conversion.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 14:52:58 -0700
From: "Gillespie, John D."
Subject: RE: '61 Frame VIN Location

From: "Eric J. Kulig"
Subject: '61 Frame VIN Location?

Well I finally had some time yesterday to work on my old
truck....
(you can usually tell when I've been tinkering 'cuz I have a
bunch of
questions...... here they come!)

I seem to remember hearing that there are two VIN locations on
the
'61 F100 trucks.... in the glovebox (found that one) and the
other
on the frame rails??? I looked on the frame rails in the engine

compartment and didn't see anything. Is this the right spot?

Eric,
Went through this when I registered my 66 F100 here in San Diego
CA. As per California DMV (I know I didn't believe them at the time
also) the VIN is located on the top of the Passenger side frame rail
just forward of the Motor mount. Mine was covered up with three coats of
paint and crud. Took me 30 minutes with a wire brush to find it.

Hopes this helps and hope the restoration goes all right.

John
66 F100 240-6; NP??? Still trying to identify

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979
- --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net,
|
| Send Unsubscribe requests to
fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 15:29:34 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: RE: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

Picture this, the only early Ch*** with a TWIN I BEAM suspension... IN
THE WORLD!!! Put the 50's shell on a late model running gear. Modern
safety, convienence and a very original ride. Make the General roll
over in his grave!!


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:43:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: Re:'61 Frame VIN Location

The VIN number is usually stamped on top of the frame on the passenger side
near the front body mount. Thats where it was on my 1979 Bronco. I was told
by an old timer that it was pretty much the same for all FORD vehicles.
Good Luck and use a scraper and steel brush!!!! Wayne Grabley....


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