fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, October 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 287
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 22:09:28 -0500
From: Bob Elliott
Subject: 79 E150
I didn't word'd my previous question very well. Is there any way using fractory parts to con-
vert an E150 van to 8 hole 3/4 T suspension. Bob at elliott ptsi.net
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 22:34:46 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Plugs and Carbs
First off, thanks to everyone for their input on the Splitfire plugs. I
decided to go with the Champion Premium gold truck plug. Looks to be a
good one and I got them for under $2.00 each after rebate. I also ordered
a set of Ford SVO plug wires from Summit. Should have those by the
I called a dealer today and asked about a rebuild kit for my stock 4 bbl
carb. They said it would be about $75.00, seems pretty high but still
cheaper than new. I may do a rebuild on the stocker and try for a
replacement in about a year. Two questions. First, has anyone ever done a
rebuild on a stock "Holly" 4 bbl, '79 vintage? If so, how ugly was it?
Also, what do you all think about the Carter AFB carbs? I could get a 625
cfm with Ford hookups for about $230.00. Do you think this would be a good
match for a stock 460? I may change to an aftermarket intake some day but
everything else will stay close to stock.
Okay, so that was more then two questions, sue me.
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 20:42:58 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Cooling system question
>My 67 has the pull-knob but it doesn't pull a valve on the hose.
>Instead, there is an arm on the outside of the heater that pulls
>a "flap" down in front of the heater radiator so air can't come
>through. I guess they made two types.
See, mine does have the pull-on-heat knob, which you turn to the right to
turn the fan on. The middle knob is the one that actuates the temperature
regulator valve/heater control valve, says 'temp' on it. The knob on the
right is pull for defrost, push for floor heat.
I am at a loss to explain.
marko in vancouver
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 22:46:09 -0500
From: Thomas Lamb
I'm replacing the stock coil on my 78'. Has anyone noticed any better
performance from one brand or another. I'm thing of the msd.
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 21:16:54 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Ammeter Again
>Sorry I didn't reply sooner.
>The ammeter is working well. No indication of overheating on the shunt. 1.2
>ohms is correct. Like I said it was MUCH higher than I wanted but the meter
>moves well with it (it should because most of the charging current is going
Err, this one caught my eye and bugged me a little...
The shunt is 1.2 ohms?? That's *very* high for a charging current shunt.
The most You could possibly push thru it on 12v is 10 amps.
(One side at 12v, other side dead short to ground.! )
Certainly Your charging system is good for more than 10amps, eh?
And 10 amps thru a 1.2 ohm shunt is 120watts of energy wasted in the
shunt!! That would make a massive amount of heat!
If the charging system is regulated to 14.5volts and the battery is
very low, say 10 volts, a 1.2 ohm shunt would only allow 3.75 amps
max current to flow into the battery.
I would've expected more like 0.05 ohms for a current shunt that's
useful at 20 amps or so... Even that high a resistance would
dissipate 31 watts at 25 amps!
What is this shunt made of?
I haven't paid much attention to the ford ammeter system, but something
seems very odd with this. Is the shunt just to trim the meter value, or
is it really used as a current shunt?
What's the resistance of the ammeter itself? Is it very low?.
Like 0.2 ohms or less?
IMHO..... if every thing else is stock on the engine, the stock dura-spark
coil is more than sufficient. The secondary ignition system only really
requires on average not more than 20 Kilo Volts even in extremes. The stock
coil is capable of 40 Kv or more. Only in high RPM, high compression, or very
high flow engines do you require much more than the stock dura-spark coil.
Remember these engines ran lean, a la 1978, much harder to jump an air gap in
a lean condition than a rich condition, so these units were built stout.
Sorry if I rambled on but this was/is my expertise, and aftermarket companys
using what is pretty much false advertisement to gain sales to replace
perfectly good parts just bugs the #$^% out of me. Money is better spent
other places to improve efficiency and performance. I'm getting off my soap
96 F-350 4x4
68 F-250 4x4
92 Mustang LX 5.0, new to the corral
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