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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 10:10:23 -0400
To: kpayne mindspring.com
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest) (by way of Ken Payne ) (by way of Ken Payne ) (by way of Ken Payne )
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #265
fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, October 6 1997 Volume 01 : Number 265
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Fouling one plug (FT #261) [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
YEEEEEHAAAAAA!!!!! (FT #262) [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
'72 F-250(FT# 260/263?) [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
question [KEVIN ]
Cooling Fan Options??? ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
360 Mileage [abbott ]
hubs and stuff.... [SLaG ]
Easy Upgrades and bad Vibrations ["Brett McCoy"
Re: '72 f-250 [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: hubs and stuff.... [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
Anyone ?? [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
RE: Anyone ?? [Randy Collins ]
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 18:59:07 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: Fouling one plug (FT #261)
> Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:07:03 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Fouling one plug (FT#259)
> How about a bad valve guide on this cylinder or a bad valve guide umbrella seal?
> Just a thought
> DC Beatty
> 1967 F100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302
And a good one at that! (just my 2d)
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:00:16 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: YEEEEEHAAAAAA!!!!! (FT #262)
> Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 23:25:58 -0700
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: YEEEEEHAAAAAA!!!!!
> Okay, I have finally found basically what I am looking for.
> OK. Here's the list of questions:
> 6. Both 67's run (ahem) 352's. Are they useful for anything but
> paperweights? I would like to drop in a 390, how much diff is there between
> a car and truck 390, and which shud I choose?
I like 352's, stick with it (just MHO)! Try putting a set of worked
heads on one, and you will be AMAZED (good for at least 50hp on a
bone-stock combo, more on an aftermarket combo)! It is much cheaper
(and easier) to have the heads done (3-angle valve job, port match, bowl
port, maybe larger valves) than to have a whole new engine built. Have
this done at a shop that has done FE heads before, though, and tell them
what your engine (cam, intake manifold, exhaust manifold/headers,
desired CR, RPM use range, fuel used) and vehicle (weight, transmission,
final drive ratio) combination is. Find a nice set of cores at a
boneyard, have them done while you continue to drive your truck, when
they are done, take an afternoon to swap and smoke the tires! You can
make a 390 from your 352, probably. Do an overbore to 4.050 (.050 over
stock), add a 390 crank, rods, and pistons, and voila, you have a 390.
New or worked heads won't hurt, too. Journal sizes and clearances for
352/360/390 cranks are essentially the same, only the stroke is
different. Truck or car engines didn't vary dramatically with probably
two major exceptions: some truck engines came with steel cranks, and
trucks typically had lower compression ratios. If you can find a truck
engine, use it. If you only have a car engine available to you, use
it. Unless you are pounding the dog!+ out of it, you will probably
never notice the difference. If you are still looking to build a new
engine, see if you can find one of these blocks: mid 60's 352/390
Police block. Why, you say? Because some, not all, of them are
essentially 427 blocks (read: super-stout)! They have the bosses and
webbing for the cross-bolted crank of the 427, but no cross-bolted caps
(this is how you identify them, otherwise they look like a plain-jane
352 or 390). They also have the same cylinder wall thickness of the 427
for super overbores. So if you find one, you can make a gorilla-fart
strong 352/360/390! These blocks are not easy to find, however, and now
the secret's out! IF you find more than one, let me know, and I'll take
it/them off your hands!
> 7. The good 352 has headers. These shud bolt up to a 360 or 390 (non
> gt), no?
Yup. You might want to call a header shop to make sure the primary pipe
diameter of the headers you have will work OK with the 390.
> 11. Are there any useful parts from the 352 that I can swap over to a
> 390? Except the block?
Probably all with the exception of crank (different stroke), rods
(different length), and pistons (different diameter). The heads are a
maybe, depending on the performance and RPM ranges required. If they
have been massaged, they will probably work fine. The block will
probably work too, just check cylinder wall thickness or casting
number. The block was probably used as a 360/390 casting too.
> Thanks for your advice in advance. I'll keep you posted, and mail in before
> and after pictures together with my site donation!! (which reminds me Ken
> please email me the list's snail mail address for me to donate, and to get a
Send a check or money order to:
FTE, Attn: Sticker
P.O. Box 422
Lilburn, GA 30048
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71 f250 4x4
Sorry I didn't have answers for the other stuff. I have been a Ford car
freak for many years now, but only recently added a truck to vehicles I
have tried (my '68 F-250 beater).
Good luck on the other stuff. Hope I helped.
Boy can I yak a lot when I talk about motors!
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:22:49 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: '72 F-250(FT# 260/263?)
> Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 12:56:45 -0400
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Re: '72 f-250
> At 12:47 PM 10/5/97 -0400, you wrote:
> >This is my first posting so i hope i'm doing this right... if not, i
> >guess someone will lemme know! :-) The Truck is a '72 F-250 and the
> >engine is a 360. My Dad bought it new in '72 and it's sorta been in the
> >family all these years... The motor seems "tired" but the body is great
> >and the a/c is cold! I'd like to start driving it again on a regular
> >basis and have considered dropping in a 302... some folks have said this
> >is an easy job and others have said it's nearly impossible... any ideas
> >or suggestions along these lines or should i just have the 360
> >re-built? I'm not even sure it requires a re-build at this point but i
> >know i have always had trouble with exhaust manifold gaskets... this
> >motor seems to eat them! When they go out the noise is ... noticable...
> >to say the least! Finally, this motor (360) seems to be kinda a rare
> >bird... or am i imagining this? Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, etc.
> 1. Rebuild the 360, see about getting the crank changed over so it'll
> be a 390. This is a minor changeover. If you put in a 302 you'll
> have to change the transmission and driveshaft. The 302 does not
> share the same bolt pattern as the FE blocks.
I concur. Bill, you probably won't be happy with the 302 after the 360
(read: less power). It will take quite a lot of changes to mate the 302
into your truck. You will need new accessory brackets, motor mounts,
bellhousing, and probably much more. I would rebuild the 360, IMHO, and
390 crank is a good idea.
> 2. Check the manifolds to make sure they're not warped. They should
> last a long time (the gaskets). Make sure you use a torque wrench
> and properly torque them. Re-torque again after a couple of days.
> Not having manifold gaskets tightened properly will cause **any**
> engine to go use them up in a hurry. Also, if an exhaust port is
> burned because you drove it too long with a bad gasket then this
> could be the reason. This is a minor fix for a good welder.
Go to a junkyard and get a set of 390 heads, have them gone through, and
swap them out. It should fix the gasket problem, and give you some HP
too! Check the accessory mounting holes to make sure they match (they
should). Check out my super-long yak-fest to marko for ideas on this
> 3. The 360 is not rare. Over 12 million FE V8s were produced from 1957
> through 1976, in displacements ranging from 332-428. Many people
> think if its not a 302 or 351 then its rare, nothing could be further
> from the truth. I'm willing to guestimate that 30-40% of the FEs
> produces were 360 ci.
Good luck, bill.
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:02:16 -0500
does anyone know of a classified page where i can sell my 64 fairlane?
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 21:06:00 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Cooling Fan Options???
OK guys it's time to haul out those opinions again!
Recently went on a extended vacation pulling camper and hauling all the
gear associated with a family of four. My '79 F-150, 351M, ran ok except
that it tended to get hot in stop-n-go traffic (90F, A/C on) and would
boil over immediately after pulling off the highway. Temperature stayed
normal when running down the highway.
The 351M was a swap, the original motor was a 302. I suspect that the
radiator is the original 302 radiator. The fan has been replaced with an
aluminum flex fan which is chewed up from when the alternator bolt broke
and backed out into the fan, (it's not chewed up so bad as to affect
cooling). There is about a 2" gap between the edge of the fan and the
shroud, the fan is smaller than the shroud and set back from the shroud
opening. I don't plan to replace the radiator until this one dies, I'll
probably consider a larger core radiator at that time. My question is
about the fan. Should I ;
1) Go to the boneyard and dig up a stock fan/thermostatic clutch set-up.
2) Get a new flex fan with spacers to get it centered in the shroud
3) Pitch the flex fan and go with an electric fan set-up.
I'm leaning toward the electric fan but am interested in hearing your
opinions. I've read some negative comments about electric fans not moving
enough air for slow desert crawling, etc. While I'm not currently planning
any outing like that stop-n-go traffic is a real possibility.
What kind of mileage can I expect from a 76 F-250 with a 360 and an auto.
I'm not sure of the gears of a range from 355's to 456's.
Thanks everybody, You've been great.
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:21:21 -0500
Subject: hubs and stuff....
ok...thanks to everyone who has answered about my hubs...
i have checked all over town and no one has axle shaft snap rings...
not even a junkyard...i still have a couple to check though...so maybe i
can find one...
if not...the guy at auto zone said i would have to buy a whole new hub
assembly ....which i just avoided doing..so that would suck...
if i can't find one ...then you guys who can get em for a $1 need to
send me one... =o)
i hope you feel a sense of accomplishment because if you know it or not
you are all helping me build up my rig...and i thank you for it ...
however the going is slow on my minimum wage budget.......
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 21:47:07 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Easy Upgrades and bad Vibrations
Just a couple of ideas tacked on in relation to the heater core changes and
intermittent wipers. It has been my experience that these are two of the
quickest and most enjoyable upgrades that only take about 30 min. Fist one
is find a 78-79 XLT with an intermittent wiper switch. Looks the same as
the regular one but you can turn the switch to the left (counter clockwise)
and you get the delay. Turn it to the right (clockwise) and you have the
standard two speeds. Just be sure when you get the switch you also take
the "little black box" that is attached to it. That is the delay part.
This is a direct plug in to the factory wire harness. You can even get it
to work in the '77's if you look at the plug for a few minutes. Next
upgrade is to install the "HI output heater system" looks like the stock
unit but puts out twice the heat and much faster. In my '77 I had some
much air coming in past the worn out weather strip you could feel the draft
through a down parka. Installed the Hi output heater and I could drive
with the window down in 20 degree weather and not be cold. Hot enough to
melt your tennies ;-)
Now for a question. I just got my C6 rebuilt and it seems to work just
fine. However now I seem to have a pretty strong vibration when I give the
gas peddle a little tap in park. As the RPM drops back to slow idle you
feel the whole cab shake and the rear view mirrors all shake pretty good.
I don't seem to recall this before the tranny rebuild. They put in a new
flywheel at the same time. Any change you can install it out of balance.
Truck is a '79 with stock 460 and 4 bbl carb. I know the carb needs a
rebuild and I should do a tune up. Any ideas?
>This is my first posting so i hope i'm doing this right... if not, i
>guess someone will lemme know! :-) The Truck is a '72 F-250 and the
>engine is a 360. My Dad bought it new in '72 and it's sorta been in the
>family all these years... The motor seems "tired" but the body is great
>and the a/c is cold! I'd like to start driving it again on a regular
>basis and have considered dropping in a 302... some folks have said this
>is an easy job and others have said it's nearly impossible... any ideas
>or suggestions along these lines or should i just have the 360
>re-built? I'm not even sure it requires a re-build at this point but i
>know i have always had trouble with exhaust manifold gaskets... this
>motor seems to eat them! When they go out the noise is ... noticable...
>to say the least! Finally, this motor (360) seems to be kinda a rare
>bird... or am i imagining this? Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, etc.
The 302 should bolt in quite easily, but I'd rebuild the 360 as a 390
and keep the FE power!! Change the crank and pistons during Your rebuild
and 360 = 390.
There's nothing rare about the 360. Millions were made and put in trucks.
Parts are still readily available.
FE's can make excellent power and torque, and are almost as reliable
as gravity... I like the FE390 in my '71 F100 very much!
Exhaust gaskets shouldn't be a big problem. It sounds like something isn't
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:37:54 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: hubs and stuff....
If you'd like...I have many snap rings left over from my 4wheel
shop ownership days...send me a private "e" with your address and I'll
gladly mail ya one out!!
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:56:07 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Anyone ??
Does anyone have a listing, or know an easy way to get a true
identification of a block casting number?
I recently purchased a 64'f100 and am going to put my engine that
I previously stuffed into a 79'f150 supercab 4x4 into it. Its been about
8 years since I played with this motor and can't remember exactly what
I've got. I do know its a 429/460. but am not sure what year and which
it is for sure. I tried a local crankshaft regrinder
but he states that he's never heard of this number. Any help would be
greatly appreciated as I am now at a stalling point for ordering parts.
block casting number...DNE 6015 A2B.....???
Thanks for your help.
96'f150 4x4 shortbox
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 00:57:50 -0700
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: Anyone ??
block casting number...DNE 6015 A2B.....???
I'll bet that the casting number reads D1VE. This block was used from 1971
to at least 1979...maybe later. ....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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