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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:55:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #261
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, October 4 1997 Volume 01 : Number 261



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: roller camshafts [Sleddog ]
more on roller cam [Sleddog ]
RE: ADMIN: Binary attachments - solution [Sleddog ]
hubs [SLaG ]
hub [SLaG ]
Re: hubs ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Fouling one plug (FT#259) [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
Engine vibration (FT#259) [Alan Mittelstaedt ]
Heater core leak... [Ken Payne ]
Re: hubs, P.S. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
re: heater core ["RICH ANZALONE" ]
Re: hubs [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
Re: hubs ["rons" ]
Re: 15" Spindles and Wheels [GMPACHECO aol.com]
Report from the weekend/Question... ["Daniel H. Jenkins"
RE: Heater core leak... [DC Beatty ]
RE: Fouling one plug (FT#259) [DC Beatty ]
RE: Engine vibration (FT#259) [DC Beatty ]
Re: Report from the weekend/Question... [Mike Schwall ]
Re: Report from the weekend/Question... [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:42:46 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: roller camshafts

yes, please post number-name etc.

sleddog

- ----------
From: John MacNamara[SMTP:JohnMcn micom.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 1997 8:54 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: roller camshafts

Gary, 78 BBB wrote:
>
> > From: Sleddog
> > Subject: roller camshafts
> > Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 17:18:08 -0400
>
> > searching has come up with the smallest one being about 280 .050 and
> > .570 lift. this may suit my needs, but according to the desktop
> > dyno runs best at 6000-8000. 6500 is all i really want to run, 7000
> > is pushing it, so i need a "smaller" cam to deliver the power
> > earlier on.
>
> I second that emotion :-) That's about all I could find but I only
> have one catalog so far, Comp Cams. I'd like one rated for lower too
> but even lower than that. They are available for the 335 series of
> all things but not the 460???
>
> I'll be listening to this one as to mods required as well. Wish I
> knew :-(
>
> The swift of foot and slow of wit
> have more off road experiences
>
> -- Gary --
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Gary: We have a cam manufacturer out here in the San Fernando Valley. He
made a cam for my old 400 motor. He will make you any grind you want at
no extra cost. If your interested, I can give you his number.

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:54:55 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: more on roller cam

i have a great source for 460 parts. they do flathead and fe and y-block
also, but mainly 460. the smallest they list for roller is over .645 lift
and over 268 dur. .050. i know that they told me i can get profiles other
than what is in the catalog for hyd. cams - one day soon i hope to call
about the roller cams. i am sure someone must be able to sell me a smaller
one. but i still don't know if any work has to be done to make the parts
work/fit like machining the timing chain cover or block for a different
thrust bearing or if the crossbars will fit without grinding away some of
the block at the lifter bores like a freind of mine had to do with a 340
even though he was told they'd drop right in.

i actually don't mind a really big bump stick, but i do not want to have to
recut pistons or such and my bottom end may not last much over the 6500
mark and i really doubt it will hold at all over the 7000 mark. BTW,
another puller running a "big" 460 pulled down the track with a cast iron
crank at over 9000 rpm and only just blew it apart this year - after at
least 5 years on the crank. he now has decided to go proffessional. he
has been #1 in points for the last 3 years or so in my class. guess he had
no where else to go!

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 14:59:39 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: ADMIN: Binary attachments - solution

a round of applause please for the great Ken!

- ----------
From: Ken Payne[SMTP:kpayne mindspring.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 1997 10:36 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net; fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net; fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Subject: ADMIN: Binary attachments - solution

The complaints about binary attachments are starting to come in
again.

colors, special fonts, etc. If all else fails, dump your Microsoft
or Netscape mailer and get a mailer that's friendly with the
rest of the world. Windozs users should try Eudora lite:
www.eudora.com
Its free and a very good package.

Ken

Note: Replies to this message may bounce as I'm going to implement
the filters shortly. This message contains the "taboo" words that
are going to get filtered.






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 14:08:12 -0500
From: SLaG
Subject: hubs

if there is anyone out there listening...
i am in the middle of hub disassembly....
just how important is the axle shaft snap ring... in the internal hub
assembly?

if there is one missing can that cause Major problems?

- --


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 14:09:17 -0500
From: SLaG
Subject: hub

ok...forgot to tell you ...about the hub thing

please reply by email i will be waiting.

thanks....
rasberry aaaa.net
- --


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 15:22:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: hubs

> Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 14:08:12 -0500
> From: SLaG
> Subject: hubs

> just how important is the axle shaft snap ring... in the internal
> hub assembly?

Refresh my memory, does the spring ride on the sprocket? I think it
does so the gear needs to be retained or the sprocket will push it
into the knob. The axle is retained by the yoke bearing so can't
come out but the gear can be pushed out to rub on the plastic shifter
knob so I'd say run to auto zone and get another one.


The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 14:40:03 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: Fouling one plug (FT#259)

John--

#1 could be leaking from the bottom side of the intake port. If you
don't have a valley cover under the manifold, it could be sucking in
small amounts of engine oil, and fouling the plug. It could also be
sucking coolant from the adjacent water passage. I have had this
problem with a couple of older small-blocks before. I cured my problem
with fresh intake manifold gaskets (quality Fel-Pro) and by using
Permatex Super High Tack gasket sealant (it looks just like
weather-strip adhesive though). Before you tear everything apart, be
sure to check the distributor cap for hairline cracks (I know you said
it was new, but sometimes parts chimps drop things). I could also be a
minor head gasket flaw, but this would probably manifest itself as
several other problems, and get much worse very fast.


Good luck.

> Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 20:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
> From: SARHOG aol.com
> Subject: fouling one plug
>
> My # 1 spark plug is fouling. I checked for a vacuum leak around the intake
> manifold near # 1, vacuum at idle (800rpm) from the lower port on carb read
> 17-18 in. of vacuum before and during a liberal dousing of Gumout. Any other
> ideas?
> Let me give you all my details:
>
> - -`72 or `73 460 with `68 429 non CJ heads.
> - -Offenhauser 6" rise, single plane intake
> - -Holley model 3310 750cfm, vacuum secondaries (brand new)
> # 72 main jets, # 75 secondary jets, 6.5" hg power valve, # 31 accel pump
> nozzle
> - -new dist. cap & rotor (electronic ignition)
> - -new plug wires
> - -Bosch Platinum plugs gapped to .44"
>
> I have switched plugs around, and plug wires; problem says with the # 1
> cylinder.
> Just did a compression check on warm engine, all readings are 180-185 except
> # 1= 195, and # 2= 165. Like I said, the carb is new, but I had the same
> problem with the old carb ( 800cfm double pumper).
> I am completely out of ideas. Any help you can give would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Z.
> 67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 14:40:19 -0700
From: Alan Mittelstaedt
Subject: Engine vibration (FT#259)

> Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 19:17:20 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Timing causing engine vibration and poor emissions?
>
> Actually I would suggest checking the plug wires with a voltmeter or

Check the plug wires with an OHMMETER not a voltmeter. If you try to
measure voltage on the secondary circuit, you will probably get a highly
unpleasant ~ZAP~, and probably blow up your voltmeter. You can check
for current by attaching a timing light to each plug wire to make sure
it is firing. Remove the plug wire with the engine off, and measure the
resistance of the plug wire with an ohmmeter. The value returned should
be about 90 ohms per inch +/- 10%. If they are much higher in
resistance than this, replace the wires.

> checking to see if you fouled a plug or something. I have had this
> condition (rough idle, smooth at higher rpm's) and found the secondary
> ignition system to be the culprit. =
>
> Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.
>

Good idea. Wrong meter.

> DC Beatty
> 1967 F100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 15:18:37 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Heater core leak...

Just got back from a long ride in the 67 F100. The heater core
started leaking into the cab badly. It had started a "dribble"
earlier this week but its a definate leak now. Green fluid running
into the floor of your truck is a major clue!

Anyways, I just took out the heater assembly. I've never done
this before and I'm amazed how easy Ford made it. Just unhooked
the two hoses in the engine compartment, along with the 3 nuts
surrounding the hoses. The whole unit just came out with little
effort. Disconnected the 3 wire connections on the unit, slipped
off the under dash hoses and presto, one heater unit out. Took
5 minutes.

Once out, the little radiator in there came out easily. Leak
wasn't obvious so I took out the radiator, laid it on the edge
of the engine bay, hooked the coolant lines back up and started
the truck. Then I waited a couple of minutes for the thermostat
to open up. Sure enough, the leak showed itself. Thankfully
its nothing a little solder won't fix.

Anyways, I posted this info in case anyone out there's run into
a similar situation. Rather than by-pass the heater I thought
you might want to know how easy it is to fix.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 15:31:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: hubs, P.S.

> From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
> Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 15:22:13 +0000
> Subject: Re: hubs

> come out but the gear can be pushed out to rub on the plastic
> shifter knob so I'd say run to auto zone and get another one.

Also make sure the large end of the spring is toward the bearing and
that spring rest is in good shape and turned so the edge faces the
bearing leaving a gap to keep the spring away from the bearing. I
wish you success, see ya tomorrow if you're around :-)


The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 13:01:52 PDT
From: "RICH ANZALONE"
Subject: re: heater core

Anyways,
I just took out the heater assembly. I've never done
this before and I'm amazed how easy Ford made it. Just unhooked
the two hoses in the engine compartment, along with the 3 nuts
surrounding the hoses. The whole unit just came out with little
effort. Disconnected the 3 wire connections on the unit, slipped
off the under dash hoses and presto, one heater unit out. Took
5 minutes.


I have to admit that getting the heater core out was easy on my truck
also but, getting the A/C duct out of the way so I could remove the
heater duct was a different story. To make a long story short it's a
good thing the A/C didn't work anyway. :-)

Rich Anzalone 75 F100 (390)


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 16:48:16 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: hubs

It can cause your axle to shift and blow the end off your hub!!
you need to install the ring for sure. Reach behind the nuckle joint and
force the axle outward to ease the installation of the snap ring... if
you don't have one its worth the 1.00 to go out and get it
rather than to explode a lockout and possibly destroy the inside of your
hub !!

Brian
64'f100 short box
78' f150 4x4
96' f150 shortbox
97' j**P wrangler

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 17:33:44 -0400
From: "rons"
Subject: Re: hubs

Not being a Smart A-- but if it was there I think I would make D--- sure I
put it back.

Ron
BRONCO LOVER


- ----------
> From: SLaG
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: hubs
> Date: Saturday, October 04, 1997 3:08 PM
>
> if there is anyone out there listening...
> i am in the middle of hub disassembly....
> just how important is the axle shaft snap ring... in the internal hub
> assembly?
>
> if there is one missing can that cause Major problems?
>
> --
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:16:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: GMPACHECO aol.com
Subject: Re: 15" Spindles and Wheels

Thanks, I'll give it a measure and get back to you...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:04:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: Report from the weekend/Question...

Well, the good news is that this weekend I managed to convert the
regular wipers on my 77 F150 Supercab to intermmitant wipers... Yipee!! I
also decided that I would try to repiant the "chrome" that lines the edges
of the trim piece that covers the dash. You know, the one where the
windshield wipers, headlamps, and radio are located. ANyway, I botched it
throuroughly. I tried using painters tape to dill in the black areas
where I didn't want paint. It worked alright until I reached the curved
parts. Anybody out there got any ideas? I'm thinking of maybe filling in
the spaces with silly putty or play dough... Help me make my truck
beautiful again!! Thanks!

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. JenkinsFood for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.eduwrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Programwife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno_Regained_...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:07:09 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Heater core leak...

Yeah. They're great, aren't they? Even into the late '70's it's an easy
job. =


The ford Taurus had the core right in the center of the dash. The entire
dash needs to come out and you need special tools to remove the clamps.
This is progress??

DC Beatty

Just got back from a long ride in the 67 F100. The heater core
started leaking into the cab badly. It had started a "dribble"
earlier this week but its a definate leak now. Green fluid running
into the floor of your truck is a major clue!

Anyways, I just took out the heater assembly. I've never done
this before and I'm amazed how easy Ford made it. Just unhooked
the two hoses in the engine compartment, along with the 3 nuts
surrounding the hoses. The whole unit just came out with little
effort. Disconnected the 3 wire connections on the unit, slipped
off the under dash hoses and presto, one heater unit out. Took
5 minutes.

Once out, the little radiator in there came out easily. Leak
wasn't obvious so I took out the radiator, laid it on the edge
of the engine bay, hooked the coolant lines back up and started =

the truck. Then I waited a couple of minutes for the thermostat
to open up. Sure enough, the leak showed itself. Thankfully
its nothing a little solder won't fix. =


Anyways, I posted this info in case anyone out there's run into
a similar situation. Rather than by-pass the heater I thought
you might want to know how easy it is to fix.

Ken




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:07:03 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Fouling one plug (FT#259)

How about a bad valve guide on this cylinder or a bad valve guide umbrell=
a
seal? =


Just a thought

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

John--

#1 could be leaking from the bottom side of the intake port. If you
don't have a valley cover under the manifold, it could be sucking in
small amounts of engine oil, and fouling the plug. It could also be
sucking coolant from the adjacent water passage. I have had this
problem with a couple of older small-blocks before. I cured my problem
with fresh intake manifold gaskets (quality Fel-Pro) and by using
Permatex Super High Tack gasket sealant (it looks just like
weather-strip adhesive though). Before you tear everything apart, be
sure to check the distributor cap for hairline cracks (I know you said
it was new, but sometimes parts chimps drop things). I could also be a
minor head gasket flaw, but this would probably manifest itself as
several other problems, and get much worse very fast.


Good luck.
=

> Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 20:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
> From: SARHOG aol.com
> Subject: fouling one plug
> =

> My # 1 spark plug is fouling. I checked for a vacuum leak around the
intake
> manifold near # 1, vacuum at idle (800rpm) from the lower port on carb
read
> 17-18 in. of vacuum before and during a liberal dousing of Gumout. Any=

other
> ideas?
> Let me give you all my details:
> =

> - -`72 or `73 460 with `68 429 non CJ heads.
> - -Offenhauser 6" rise, single plane intake
> - -Holley model 3310 750cfm, vacuum secondaries (brand new)
> # 72 main jets, # 75 secondary jets, 6.5" hg power valve, # 31 accel
pump
> nozzle
> - -new dist. cap & rotor (electronic ignition)
> - -new plug wires
> - -Bosch Platinum plugs gapped to .44"
> =

> I have switched plugs around, and plug wires; problem says with the =
#
1
> cylinder.
> Just did a compression check on warm engine, all readings are 180-185
except
> # 1=3D 195, and # 2=3D 165. Like I said, the carb is new, but I had th=
e same
> problem with the old carb ( 800cfm double pumper).
> I am completely out of ideas. Any help you can give would be greatl=
y
> appreciated.
> =

> Thanks,
> =

> John Z.
> 67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 23:07:06 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Engine vibration (FT#259)

Oops. Thanks for the correction Alan. Voltmeter bad, ohmmeter good!!

DC Beatty

> Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 19:17:20 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Timing causing engine vibration and poor emissions?
> =

> Actually I would suggest checking the plug wires with a voltmeter or

Check the plug wires with an OHMMETER not a voltmeter. If you try to
measure voltage on the secondary circuit, you will probably get a highly
unpleasant ~ZAP~, and probably blow up your voltmeter. You can check
for current by attaching a timing light to each plug wire to make sure
it is firing. Remove the plug wire with the engine off, and measure the
resistance of the plug wire with an ohmmeter. The value returned should
be about 90 ohms per inch +/- 10%. If they are much higher in
resistance than this, replace the wires.

> checking to see if you fouled a plug or something. I have had this
> condition (rough idle, smooth at higher rpm's) and found the secondary
> ignition system to be the culprit. =3D
> =

> Just a suggestion. Hope this helps.
> =


Good idea. Wrong meter.

> DC Beatty
> 1967 F100 352
> 1974 Maverick 302



+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 23:47:29 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Report from the weekend/Question...

At 07:04 PM 10/4/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, the good news is that this weekend I managed to convert the
>regular wipers on my 77 F150 Supercab to intermmitant wipers... Yipee!!

What did you install to make intermittent wipers? I'd like to do the same
on my '78 F150.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intx.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes
Ford Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes/fordarea.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 22:49:38 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Report from the weekend/Question...

>Well, the good news is that this weekend I managed to convert the
>regular wipers on my 77 F150 Supercab to intermmitant wipers... Yipee!! I
>also decided that I would try to repiant the "chrome" that lines the edges
>of the trim piece that covers the dash. You know, the one where the
>windshield wipers, headlamps, and radio are located. ANyway, I botched it
>throuroughly. I tried using painters tape to dill in the black areas
>where I didn't want paint. It worked alright until I reached the curved
>parts. Anybody out there got any ideas? I'm thinking of maybe filling in
>the spaces with silly putty or play dough... Help me make my truck
>beautiful again!! Thanks!
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Daniel H. JenkinsFood for thought: John Milton
>djenkins honors.unr.eduwrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
>Honors Programwife died he wrote _Paradise_....

---

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