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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 20:40:55 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #360
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, November 19 1997 Volume 01 : Number 360



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #353 ["Eric"
Re: ADMIN: Please read... [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
What do you think? [Kevin Lindstedt ]
Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle ["Gary, 78 BBB"
RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure [Sleddog ]
clutch or electric fan ["Mike Masse" ]
RE: clutch or electric fan [Sleddog ]
Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle [james oxley
Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle ["woody"
Re: New Compressor Dims the Neighborhood ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Who asked about disc brakes on a 65? [Jason Eaton ]
RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: What do you think? ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: 390 and duraspark ["George Shepherd" ]
Setting up Dana diff gears. [james oxley ]
Cough [am14 chrysler.com]
Low voltage [am14 chrysler.com]
4sp [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Setting up Dana diff gears. ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Custom Cab Door Pockets [A66f100 aol.com]
Digest #358 ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
AutoBody [RCCRAZZZY aol.com]
Re: Dana 44 front spindles [FORDTRKNUT aol.com]
Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: New Compressor [sdelanty sonic.net]
rag joint repair [rick adc.com (Rick Larson)]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 14:08:15 EST
From: "Eric"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #353

Dana,

> What's the feeling from the list: do you like chrome around the
> windshield or not?
> Maybe you all can help me decide!

My vote is to try to keep the chrome. I'm a little partial to it
since I have a Custom Cab with the chrome trim, too! I do like what
somebody said earlier - Keep the chrome, whether its on the truck or
not. I can't take up a lot of space in the garage and someday you
just might want to put it back on..... (that's if you decide
*wrongly* to leave it off now.... Hey you asked!!)

;-)

Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:26:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Please read...

- -> > *Two* lists? Pfaugh! I'm on twenty...

> Some people have all the time, I have to work for a living and
> sometimes it even interferes with my recreation :-)

Two full-time jobs here. The lists *are* my recreation!

- - Dave Williams, charter member of the "Get A Life!" mailing list...


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 07:53:58 -0600
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: What do you think?

Mornin', all!

Well, I'll admit this is a little off-topic for *this* list, but I was
hoping for some input about a truck I'm thinking about buying. It's a 1991
F150 Custom SuperCab with 300 F.I. I6, AOD, PS, PB. Truck has 127,000
highway miles on it. I've driven it and it runs/drives nice. However, I'm
a little concerned about the high miles. Is this engine on it's last legs?
Oh, by the way, the asking price is $4000 - which I think is very
reasonable. Thanks for any and all responses.

Kevin
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat - 460/C6

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 08:59:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

> From: "woody"
> Subject: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle
> Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 20:52:03 -0700

> replacing them? Or are there other less destructive methods to get
> these unusually stubborn spindles to break free from the knuckles?
> Any "forceful" fixes welcome...as long as I can still reuse the
> spindle.

There is a notch on the back of the spindle flange designed for a
chisle to be wedged in with ford #1 tool and it will take it right
off for you :-) Be carefull to use the notch to loosen it up and
then go around as necessary to get it all the way off but be carefull
not to bugger up the flange or you will have to file the burrs off
and any metal that got upset in the process so it will fit back flat.
I believe there's a notch on the caliper frame too :-)

Piece a cake :-)

I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:48:41 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

i have been looking for a cheap one for 460's but havn't found any crank
scrapers or windage trays yet. anyone come accross one, let me know!

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 8:33 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 22:06:37 -0500
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

> So Gary, exactly how does a windage tray alleviate this? I have read
> that installing one of these is cheap and easy horsepower. Any
> experience?

The tray fits closely to the crank counter weights and literally
scrapes the oil off as they pass forcing it to fall back into the
pan. It also prevents the hurricane phenomena by acting as a
spoiler. They are very simple but have to be hand fited most of the
time I would think to get the best fit. I've never used one but know
about them from catalogs and such. Often thought I might do it on
the next rebuild since the larger crank of the 460 has more tendency
to do this at lower rpms than smaller engines I've been told :-)


Do you spend more time looking
for tools than using them???

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 08:54:05 CST
From: "Mike Masse"
Subject: clutch or electric fan

Heya fellas,
It's starting to get cold up here in
Wisconsin again, and I'm looking for ways to get the beast to warm up
faster. Last week I replaced the heater core, and the
thermostat with a 195 degree one, previous winters I've always done
the ol' cardboard in front of the radiator trick, but I've been
contemplating either a clutch fan or an electric fan to replace the
solid belt driven fan I have now so that I don't have all of that
unnecessary cold air blasting away right away when the engine is
still cold. Does anyone have any suggestions to why I should or
should not go with either? Brand names? Size? I use the vehicle for
my daily driver, towing, and offroading.

Mike Masse
'78 Bronco Custom
351M / C6 / NP205

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.medicine.wisc.edu/~mrm/bronco
email:mrm medicine.wisc.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 10:29:27 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: clutch or electric fan

i would say if price doens't matter go with electric. clutch fan's only
real good point is that it is cheep!
the electric takes the drag off the motor of the fan, and doesn't run when
not needed, also you said you go offroading. a manual switch allows the
fan to be turned off for high water crossing or turned on after motor is
turned off to cool down faster. the electric fan will probobly keep it
cooler in the summer also, especiallly off road or towing. i would
recommend the biggest one, or 2 smaller ones, with proper shrouding. some
people on this list have put them on and could probobly give you more info
i personolly use a plastic fan (real cheap!) for the money, and safety.
it flows alot of air at idle and flattens out very nice at higher rpms.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Mike Masse[SMTP:Mrm medicine.wisc.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 1997 9:54 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: clutch or electric fan

Heya fellas,
It's starting to get cold up here in
Wisconsin again, and I'm looking for ways to get the beast to warm up
faster. Last week I replaced the heater core, and the
thermostat with a 195 degree one, previous winters I've always done
the ol' cardboard in front of the radiator trick, but I've been
contemplating either a clutch fan or an electric fan to replace the
solid belt driven fan I have now so that I don't have all of that
unnecessary cold air blasting away right away when the engine is
still cold. Does anyone have any suggestions to why I should or
should not go with either? Brand names? Size? I use the vehicle for
my daily driver, towing, and offroading.

Mike Masse
'78 Bronco Custom
351M / C6 / NP205

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.medicine.wisc.edu/~mrm/bronco
email:mrm medicine.wisc.edu






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:07:33 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

woody wrote:
>
> Have been trying to remove the spindles from front axle of a '79 4x4--so
> far have used hammer and 2x4 against spindle itself from side to side and
> top and bottom, pounded on the brake caliper supports and elicited a slight
> looseness on one side... and tried pounding on a heavy screwdriver as a
> wedge--all without any tangible result. What's the next best step--

A BIG *ss chisel between caliper bracket and hub. After you crack
it fromone anlge, chisel; on opposite side so hub comes off
uniformly (is that a word??). First time I took mine off was a major
pain, but they came (tried heat, jacking on ect...). The chisel may score
the back hub slighty, but these scores easily grind off and the next time
(if ever) you have to take these off, they practically fall off with a
little chisel wack. You may screw up dust sheilds also (can be pounded
flat later), but I ditched mine in favor of better brake cooling and not
getting mud/sand/rocks caught in there all the time when 4 wheelin.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:27:42 -0700
From: "woody"
Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

> There is a notch on the back of the spindle flange designed for a
> chisle to be wedged in with ford #1 tool and it will take it right
> off for you :-) Be carefull to use the notch to loosen it up and
> then go around as necessary to get it all the way off but be carefull
> not to bugger up the flange or you will have to file the burrs off
> and any metal that got upset in the process so it will fit back flat.
> I believe there's a notch on the caliper frame too :-)

Gary,

More detail--what's the depth and width of this "notch"?

My pair look pretty smooth all the way around--my guess is no notch
machined on this production run. And for those that have the notch, if at
some time in the past it was remounted incorrectly (because they didn't
know what it was for) at other than 8-10 o'clock or 2-4 o'clock (depending
on right or left) I gather one ends up thoroughly deforming the brake
rotor shield to get access.

Woody
wfriesen worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:44:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: New Compressor Dims the Neighborhood

> Date: Sun, 16 Nov 1997 09:22:01 -0800
> From: Marv Miller
> Subject: New Compressor Dims the Neighborhood

> I noted that you are dimming your neighbor's lights. This is

I was just kidding but it wouldn't surprise me which is one of the
reasons I'm concerned about it. I have consumers working on it now
and the motor has a LRA code G 230v, single phase and the motor
manufacturer says they usually figure 6 - 8 time running amps which
in this case is 30 so 180 - 240 amps start load, WOW! Just never
occoured to me this might happen!

Anyway consumers said they will take a peek and see if it needs
upgrading and I don't mind giving them a little incentive to do it if
necessary since my plan is to have some machining equipment in the
barn eventually as well which won't be as heavy a load as this but if
more than one is on at a time it could get messy :-)

Thanks to all of you for your sincere concern and helpful hints :-)

I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:10:43 -0800
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Re: Who asked about disc brakes on a 65?

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> Who asked the question?
>
> Anyways, I've heard that yes, you can put 73+ discs on the
> the 65 the same way you would for a 67-72. However, the
> kingpin size is different so you'd have to find the right
> size. Maybe someone here knows the size?
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

The 65 that I have had a F350 front disk brakes installed on it. The
donor truck was a 72. I could take a look at it for you?

- --
Jason Eaton, FCI Communications ( Java Development )
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fcicom.com jeaton fcicom.com
- --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 13:29:41 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure
> Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:48:41 -0500

> i have been looking for a cheap one for 460's but havn't found any
> crank scrapers or windage trays yet. anyone come accross one, let
> me know!

Saw them somewhere, Jeggs, Summit, PAW? Maybe SVO can't remember but
I did see a couple somewhere. Wouldn't be that hard to make one that
would at least do a little good out of flat sheet stock. Make a
template using the pan and then hack away till it fits over the
crank. I should think 28 ga would be sufficient but you could go as
high as 16 ga probably but it's harder to cut and shape.

I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 13:35:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

> From: "woody"
> Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle
> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:27:42 -0700

> More detail--what's the depth and width of this "notch"?
>
> My pair look pretty smooth all the way around--my guess is no notch
> machined on this production run. And for those that have the notch,
> if at some time in the past it was remounted incorrectly (because
> they didn't know what it was for) at other than 8-10 o'clock or 2-4
> o'clock (depending on right or left) I gather one ends up
> thoroughly deforming the brake rotor shield to get access.

It may be under the caliper bracket instead, can't remember but they
all have it AFAIK. It's about 1/2" wide and maybe 1/8" high and 1/2"
deep, just the right size for a 1/2" chisel (could be 3/8 but don't
think so).

It's probably filled with rust and road dirt so it may be hard to
spot but I'm sure it's there. The dust shield goes between the
caliper bracket and spindle flange so if you drive it off between the
yoke and bracket you shouldn't damage anything :-)

I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 13:39:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 11:07:33 -0800
> From: james oxley
> Subject: Re: Spindle removal from Dana 44-9F front axle

> also (can be pounded flat later), but I ditched mine in favor of
> better brake cooling and not getting mud/sand/rocks caught in there
> all the time when 4 wheelin.

How are the rotors holding up. I've often thought of doing that
myself but I should think you get more protection and better cooling
with them on?

I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:20:41 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: What do you think?

If its been well cared for , that mileage isn't too high if it was highway
miles, if it was around town, it might be dicey, are there service records?


- ----------
> From: Kevin Lindstedt
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: What do you think?
> Date: Wednesday, November 19, 1997 7:53 AM
>
> Mornin', all!
>
> Well, I'll admit this is a little off-topic for *this* list, but I was
> hoping for some input about a truck I'm thinking about buying. It's a
1991
> F150 Custom SuperCab with 300 F.I. I6, AOD, PS, PB. Truck has 127,000
> highway miles on it. I've driven it and it runs/drives nice. However,
I'm
> a little concerned about the high miles. Is this engine on it's last
legs?
> Oh, by the way, the asking price is $4000 - which I think is very
> reasonable. Thanks for any and all responses.
>
> Kevin
> 1978 F150 Ranger Lariat - 460/C6
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:15:54 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark

The one in the bunker is shielded. Hope it survives, but since all
telephone switching these days is digital and not shielded, kinda "why
care?"

- ----------
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 390 and duraspark
> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 8:05 PM
>
> George Shepherd wrote:
>
> > Course, you see, I am still paranoid about the big blast, so I retrofit
all
> > my cars with points and don't depend on anything that doesnot have a
carb.
>
>
> What about your computer?
>
> Dana
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:11:48 -0800
From: james oxley
Subject: Setting up Dana diff gears.

Howdy

I was watching Shade Tree Mechanic and they actually had what seemed
to be a usefull episode. They where setting up gears on this S-10
ch*bbie. What they said was that all pinion gears had a number scribed
into them that indicated the exact measurement from the top end of pinion
gear to the imaginary center of carrier bearings/diff. I've never seen
this number scribed, but I may not have been looking for it. What I was
thinking of doing is measuring outside of bearing race, divide by 2 and
subtract this from the dimension. I would then place a small round rod
into bearing holder part of main case, opposite main bearing caps, and
attempt to measure the distance from the bottom of this rod to top of
pinion gear. I know they sell precision tubes for this, but they are big
bucks at 300$ or more. Any opinions or info from someone who has tried
this. I have successfully set of gears on a 9", 8.8, 7.5, and dana 28. My
next conquests are either/or dana 44 and dana 60.

One other thing. To anyone that is experienced with setting up dana
rears. If I decide to add a detroit locker, but keep the same ring and
pinion. Does just a diff swap usually require resetting gears on dana
rears. I will check pattern and backlash after diff swap, I was just
curious if this type of swap normally requires shim swappage.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:12:04 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Cough

Try the vacuum advance diagphram (?) on the distributor.

>>I seem to have the same problem with my '78...am fixing this up for my
son. I thought maybe it was a bad pump, but did a rebuild and still have
the same cough type reaction. so is the carb in question a Carter
manufactured for motocraft ??? If so you just saved me many hours of
frustration and dollars !!

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:30:35 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Low voltage

A non FOMOCO topic...

I agree with Marv. Tell the power company your freezer and your
refrigerator are humming and not starting several times before they
actually startup might get you some good results. Seems to work here.
(Al.) I don't think they want to be tied up in claims court for
'spoiled food' law suits.

>>I'm not sure that you want to know what they might charge to put a
transformer on your pole at your request, but that's what you really
want to eliminate the problem. If you can demonstrate the problem as
being a serious undercapacity (NOT overloading) of their transformers,
they might get interested enough to fix it for you for nothing. Be sure
to offer your pole as the best place (however unsightly) to place their
augmentation.

Azie


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:36:59 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 4sp

4spds aren't that hard to come by here. Want me to price one for you??
I live in N. AL 3miles East of I-65, and 1 mile S of the Tn. line. I
own 2 NP435's but aren't for sale. I am good friends with a guy that
operates a salvage yard. Don't mind, if you aren't in too big of a
hurry. I'm in Digest and only at work, so might be a couple of days.
I don't think you'll have much luck changing gears in a 3sp. Some
earlier trucks and cars did have the same transmission with a lower
gear for 1st in the truck, but I'm not sure that all of them did. The
ones I am sure of is the Borg Warner T-98 3sp w/elect OD. The truck
version had a much lower 1st gear and a short tailshaft.

>>
I've got a 3 spd. trans. and since I can't use an auto and can't find a
reasonably priced 4 spd. around here I was wondering can I just have the
three spd. gearing changed ? Is this possible to have done? Would it be
worth the money to do this? Any and all help will be appreciated.


Azie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:02:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Setting up Dana diff gears.

> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:11:48 -0800
> From: james oxley
> Subject: Setting up Dana diff gears.

> ch*bbie. What they said was that all pinion gears had a number
> scribed into them that indicated the exact measurement from the top
> end of pinion gear to the imaginary center of carrier bearings/diff.
> I've never seen this number scribed, but I may not have been looking

It's a small number, usually +/- up to about 0.006 I think I've seen
so far. It's stamped on the end ot the pinion gear If I remember
right.

I think the cat's meow would be to have a ground round with a flat
ground wide enough to allow the pinion to fit and past center maybe
0.010" to allow feeler gauge checking. This is what I plan to do
next time. I'll have it made up here in the shop or see if I can buy
one. Doesn't seem like it should cost that much. Ground, hardened
4140 in that size would be about $20 - $30 and grinding the flat
about $75 maybe. Should be able to get one for under $100. if you
get the pinion height right and the backlash, theoretically the
patterns come out right so it's worth it IMHO :-)

I made something up last time but don't remember what I gauged to.
Looking at the gauge I made doesn't ring any bells right now, maybe I
was on something??? :-)


I know where compressors get their air,
it gets sucked out of the electric lines :-)

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 19:15:59 -0500 (EST)
From: A66f100 aol.com
Subject: Custom Cab Door Pockets

Hello everyone,
























My
66 f100 custom cab has a zippered pocket in the bottom half of each door. I
wondered if this was a factory installed option, or an aftermarket add on.
Thanks. Mike B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 18:33:28 -0600
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Digest #358

Hi all,

I didn't get digest #358. Could someone please send me a copy?

thanks,

Dale Carmine
'79 F-150 351M

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:12:57 -0500 (EST)
From: RCCRAZZZY aol.com
Subject: AutoBody

Does anyone know of any good autobody shops in New England that also do
custom work?

Any help would be appreciated
RCCRAZZZY AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:44:31 -0500 (EST)
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 front spindles

If you can't get the spindle off, just run the nuts up to the end of the
studs. Then using a "soft" hammer beat them in. They are pressed into both
the steering knuckle, and the spindle. NOTE: The bottom stud won't go all
the way in because the ball joint is in the way!!!! Any questions please
E-mail me directly at: FORDTRKNUT AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 19:38:50 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.

>At 02:58 PM 11/18/97 -0800, you wrote:
>snip
>
>> This time I *fully* disassemble it, INCLUDING removing all the soft plugs
>> to gain access to all the little passages... While drilling out the
>> lead plug at the top of the idle fuel passage I realize that the plug is
>> *way* too long and extends down so far that it almost completely covers
>> the hole where one passage is cross drilled into the other!!!
>> The idle fuel passage was almost completely obstructed...
>> I dig all the lead bits out, clean it all up, drive new plugs into
>> the passages, reinstall the carb and... it runs GREAT!
>> Silky smooth idle, and great throttle response now.
>
>snip
>
>O.K. so what model carb was it?
>

It's an 1100, probably the same as Yours.

>Did the new plugs come with the rebuild kit?

No, the plugs came from the fishing dept at payless...
For

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 19:38:53 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.

>
>Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 17:41:17 -0600 (CST)
>From: William Sabers
>Subject: Re: One for the "Aaarghh" file... 300/6 carb.
>
>This almost sounds bitter.... I always go by the addage, "If you want it
>done right, be good friends with a good mechanic; or buy a Chiltons..."
>

Yeah, bitter... When I spend $120 for a remanufactured item I expect
it to work correctly without me pulling it completely apart again to do
it right myself. This wasn't even close.
Both of us are pretty decent mechanics. Neither of us has ever found
a good mechanic we could consistantly trust for more than fixing flat
tires that was affordable. So we do it ourselves and know it's right
the first time...
Almost every time we trust someone else we're dissapointed.

Chilton's? I use the pages from Chilton manuals to start my wood stove!
She's got the *genuine* '67 Ford manual, it's got about 8 pages just
for the model 1100 carb, including a bunch of cutaway drawings showing
the location of all the passages.
It even has full hydraulic schematics for the C4, C6, and FMX trannies!
I sure do like the photo of the twin 4-bbls on the 427! Wish it had THAT
motor instead of the 1-bbl 300/6!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 19:38:59 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: New Compressor

>
>Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 07:27:09 +0000
>From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
>Subject: New Compressor
>
>Well Gang, I fired the dang thing up last night and just happened to
>be looking out the garage door toward the neighbors and noticed that
>their lights dimmed when I flipped on the breaker :-) (just kidding)
>
>Don't think I mentioned it to the truck list but I bought a new
>compressor, 7-1/2 hp 27.2 cfm 90, 25.4 cfm 175, 100% american
>made Campbell Housefeld and it's definitely in keeping with my BB
>nature. Runs nice and smooth so I won't even have to tie it down
>but runs on a 40 amp circuit and sucks the juice out of the lines
>when it starts.
>
>I have a question for the electical gurus. If I have a 200 amp
>service and I run copper (don't believe in al) #2-0 from the meter
>and #2 to the shop on 100 amp breaker why do I get so much line
>loss??? I believe the loss is in the Consumer cable running to my
>house. Is that likely?
>
>My feeling is that 8' of #2-0 will handle 200 amps with no loss and
>25' of #2 should handle 100 amps with little or no loss. If this is
>correct then 40 amps certainly should not cause this dip unless the
>cable supplying the property is inadequate. Please straighten my out
>if I'm wrong here cuz I'm about to call the company for an upgrade
>:-(

The NEC rates 2/0 THHN wire for 175 amps, and #2 for 115 amps.
Keep in mind that induction motors draw about 3 times their full load
current during start up. For a 40 amp motor, that's about 120 amps of
start current.
Based on NEC resistance charts, #2 cu wire is about 0.194 ohms per 1000 ft.
So, 50 feet is about 0.0097 ohms...
With a 120 amp start current, this means a voltage drop of 1.164 volts.
I'd say Your problem is elsewhere. You should go out to Your main breaker
box and measure the voltage with the compressor running and see what You've
got. Most electric companies only gaurantee an incoming voltage of 108 volts.
Anything between 108 and 128 volts and they aren't likely to help You.
If it's less than 108 or more than 128 than they should do something about it.

>
>Has anyone ever heard of a capacitor bank for residential
>applications?

Capacitor banks are there for power factor correction on grids that
run a lot of inductive equipment, mostly commercial/industrial.
3-phase grids often need them for phase correction so that the power....


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