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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 22:35:58 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #352
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, November 14 1997 Volume 01 : Number 352



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: What's the timing for FE engine? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: now I am really confused ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: now I am really confused [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
I D #'s [am14 chrysler.com]
C-6 Slipping [am14 chrysler.com]
White sludge [am14 chrysler.com]
Clark 5sp [am14 chrysler.com]
RE: Stumbles on takeoff [Keith Srb ]
Re: Cool Ford Events in Minn. [rick adc.com (Rick Larson)]
Re: Stumbles on takeoff [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Hi i need some tips to know what i've bought [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Slipping C6 tranny [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Clark update [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: 1969 Lincoln 2-door --anything worth saving? [Sleddog
460 '69 Vintage [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: now I am really confused ["Dave Resch"]
Re: C-6 weight ["Jason K. Schechner" ]
Re: 460 '69 Vintage ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
MOPAR Minivan [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: C-6 weight ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Dist Won't seat [am14 chrysler.com]
Sudden loss of oil pressure [Alan Horwitz ]
RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure [Sleddog ]
RE: 460 '69 Vintage [Sleddog ]
Re: 1969 Lincoln 2-door --anything worth saving? [DBrents105 aol.com]
Hello All ["Chris Samuel" ]
Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure ["George Shepherd" ]
Leaking Windshield ["The Zahn's" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 07:32:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: What's the timing for FE engine?

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 18:13:18 -0800
> Subject: Re: What's the timing for FE engine?

> Are you saying that you have the initial advance at 28 deg?
> If so how does the engine crank. I was playing around with the
> initial similarly and when it got up to about 20 or so it would
> almost not crank.

My guess is that the vibration damper either isn't right or has
slipped so that the TDC mark is no longer valid. Unless the rings
are completely gone (physically) I can't imagine cranking at that
kind of advance??

One possible exception is with some electronic ignitions which have
various retards built in for cranking but an initial of 28 degrees
would still put you way out of sync at 3k unless the mechanicals are
stuck or erratic. Before I set my timing at 28 I'd check all these
things out carefully cuz that don't make no sense :-)

We've discussed this at length and the high performance guys say 10
initial and 34 - 38 total including mechanical and initial, all in by
3500 or so depending on useage. If your mechanical is capable of 13
- - 21 degrees then it's possible to have as much as 49 mechanical
degrees in but with no retard available for accelleration etc.. If
you really have that much I can't imagine how it could run without
sefl destructing from pre ignition and subsequent detonation??

Do we have the right
spares in our beast?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:13:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: now I am really confused

> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 03:44:56 -0600
> From: Don
> Subject: now I am really confused

> Okay, now I am really confused......
> heads say D1AE-A1C
> block says D1AE-A1C
>
> so are the heads from a 351C-2v and the block a 400 ?
> as I am just starting to rebuild.....I sort of need to know what I

If you have 335 series heads you have 335 series block too unless
they're cleveland 4v heads then you could have 351w or 302 since some
guys think all the hassle is worth it to make them fit but you
definitely don't have an FE in that case IMHO :-)

> am building haha...... btw.....what is a GOOD book with all the
> numbers in it ?

Get Tom Monroe's book on the 335 and 385 series by HP Books, I think
Summit and Jeggs both sell it as well as PAW. He also has the FE and
small block books out and they are all very good.

Do we have the right
spares in our beast?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 07:36:59 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: now I am really confused

Don wrote:
>
> Okay, now I am really confused......
> heads say D1AE-A1C
> block says D1AE-A1C
>
> so are the heads from a 351C-2v and the block a 400 ?
> as I am just starting to rebuild.....I sort of need to know what I am
> building haha......
> btw.....what is a GOOD book with all the numbers in it ?
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
Don, I do have a HP book on the FE & FT engines, also the 335 & 385, I
got the information I sent you from theses books...And yes it is
confusing !! I think you may want to check with your local Ford Dealer
and see what they say. I'm in the process of rebuilding my 460 and the
books are pretty helpful. I got them from Summit, there like $16.95
each. The books don't list your exact #'s. They only list the way I sent
you before...D1AE-A...no 1C after it.

Good Luck...Brian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:39:57 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: I D #'s

I knew that --- Must have fumble fingered!!!!!!!!Thanks for the
confirmation.

>>You are partially correct. C=60, D=70 and E=80. The second digit is
the
year.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:51:57 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: C-6 Slipping

I've never seen this either. Erratic shifts - no shifts yes, but never
slippage caused by a vavuum modulator. I guess anything can happen
though. I always thought that all pressure points were controlled by
the valve body as supplied by the pump. Slippage is a fact of not
enough compression of the clutch pack -- right???? Usually worn
clutches causing the piston to reach its limit of travel prior to
compressing the clutches or low pressure on the piston. Just my
experience.

>>A bad sucuum modulator can DEFINATELY cause the symptoms Ken
describes,
slipping clutches and all...
I've been there, owned it, driven it, and fixed it before.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:59:51 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: White sludge

Sounds like water in the oil to me. Maybe just a gasket, maybe much
worse. Give everything a good inspection. Could be just
condensation. I would drain the oil and look very closely at the very
first drops as they begin to come out just prior to the oil plug coming
completely out of the hole. Water is heavier, so will come out first.
Can't help you with the engine ID.

>>There's some white sludge on the oil filler cape ( i assume it's a
broken head gasket.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 09:21:04 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Clark 5sp

390 and 391 are the same so I am told. I've never confirmed this, but
they are supposedly both the FE block - same bore, journal size, etc.
What was the model # of the clark?? I need a 280V0.. I have a 285V23..
Don't know about the crank flange bolt pattern, but I would bet they
are the same. 429/460 and the FE car crank flanges are the same,
because that is where I got my flywheels for the 460's I'm running.
(Off 360 trucks)
>>I did some crawling around under a 76' F-700 and found a clark. It
was packing a 391. Does the 391 have the same bellhousing pattern as
the 390? howabout the crank flange to bolt on the flywheel? It
definatly had the 13" clutch. The bolt spacing looked the same as the
truck four speeds.
Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:33:44 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: Stumbles on takeoff

At 01:04 AM 11/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>The Carter troubleshooting instructions that I got with my AFB lists
>the following solutions for "Loads up or stumbles on acceleration"
>
>Check float level and drop. Reset to specifications.
>
>Excessively rich. Requires leaner rods or jets.
>
>Increase accelerator pump stroke.
>
>Check choke setting, may require richer or leaner setting.

Manual Choke, fully open.

>
>Replace carburetor filter.

Don't have a carburetor filter, have a large canister filter on top of the
fuel pump. This filter is about half the size of an oil filter.

>
>You don't say what engine or carb you have,

Check my signature for info on the 66, the only thing it doesn't have is
the carb info. It is an autolite model 1100 1bbl, with an oil bath air
cleaner.

>and I doubt that you have
>a Carter AFB, but your symptoms should have the same solutions.
>(except for the metering rods). Generally "loading up" is caused by a
>rich mixture, your float level could be too high, or your needle
>valve leaking, or too much fuel pump pressure.

Wouldn't "loading up", too much fuel getting into the engine cause an
occasional back fire through the carb?

>Starving on the other
>hand can produce similar symptoms. This can be corrected by changing
>the accelerator pump stroke and/or resetting the float level.
>
>Dan Lee
>"53 F100 351C- 4V
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>
Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, Camper Special, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box,
Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 09:59:02 -0600 (CST)
From: rick adc.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Cool Ford Events in Minn.

Brett wrote:

>On a new note. Does anyone know of any cool Ford / Ford truck events
>in Minnesota? Seems like most of the cool stuff on one coast or the
>other. Major bummer if you can't travel much :-(

There is a Ford only meet at the St. Paul Ford Truck plant every year.
I missed this year but I think it is in late summer or early fall.
Shows start around April and are usally end around Labor day. We need
time to get the snow blowers tuned up.

rick
'66 Mustang
'71 F100
'90? toro snow blower
- --
Rick Larson rick adc.com
Minneapolis

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:45:25 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Stumbles on takeoff

>> Her dist shaft has *lots* of side play in it, so we will replace with
>> d-spark setup soon.

>I am going to assume that you got the duraspark parts from a newer 300/6,
>correct. Other than that does everything else hook up the same way the V8
>setup does?

Yep, all hooks up the same. Only difference is less plug wires.
Our "donor vehicle" was actually a 240 in some kind of early 80's
big sedan. Don't remember the model, but it was big, and light blue...

>> We got all the d-spark goods at the wreckers already for $26 (-:
>> Will probably install it in the next week or 2.
>> Keep me posted on Your progress, and I'll do the same.
>> Oh yeah, don't forget to check for a bad PCV valve...

>I just replaced the PCV, plugs, points, wires, rotor and cap less then 5
>months ago. When I did that, I checked for side play in the shaft, there
>wasn't any "noticeable" play. Since the parts only cost $26.00 Dollars in
>your part of the country, I think I will try the new setup anyway.

They cost ME about $40 at pick'n'pull in windsor for everything
when I did mine! I thought *that* was pretty reasonable...
When we went to the wreckers in sacto to get Her stuff, we got everything,
including the connectors with about 3' of wiring harness, and a nice brand
new looking rotor and cap and new 8mm plug wires off a different 240.
The lady in the booth looked at our pile and says "Distributor, control box,
coil, plug wires and 2 brake light switches, uh, that'll be $26.
I'll be going back THERE again!

Can't beat an under $30 duraspark conversion!

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:45:32 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Hi i need some tips to know what i've bought

>
>Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 13:36:36 -0500
>From: Thierry Delattre
>Subject: Hi i need some tips to know what i've bought
>
>Hi, i just bought a 79 F100 for 200$ canadian,
>I want to be sure of which engine is in there, i would like to know
>where i can fin the I.D. number on the engine because i don't know if
>it's a 302 or 351 ?????

If You count the bolts holding the intake manifold to the heads,
a 302 has 14 bolts total, 7 on each side. The 351 has 16 bolts...
Also, the front edge of the manifold on the 351 sits about "2 fingers"
(maybe 1-1/2") higher than the top edge of the timing cover. The 302
manifold starts *right* above the timing cover.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:45:41 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Slipping C6 tranny

> A bad sucuum modulator can DEFINATELY cause the symptoms Ken
> describes, slipping clutches and all... I've been there, owned it,
> driven it, and fixed it before.


BTW, I don't understand how the modulator can affect clutch
pressures? My understanding is that it only pressurizes the piston
that controls the shift but the piston would fully open the valve
when pressurized? Can it be partially pressurized so the valve
doesn't fully open?

Do we have the right
spares in our beast?

- - -- Gary --

Hmmm, that's a good question. I guess I don't know why.
Maybe the modulator gets sticky and slow to move and leaves the
valve in some intermediate partially open state for a while.
My first experiance with it was in a girlfriends '67 galaxie, 390/C6.
It rather suddenly started acting funny. Spun way up before shifting,
and then took *forever* for the clutches to hook up in the next gear.
After several seconds, it would finally hookup and it would drive fine.
We had several people tell us "time for a new tranny", including a local
tranny shop She took it to. )-:
A friend of mine mentioned the sucuum modulator and since it was cheap I
figured what the hell and screwed a fresh one in.
Hey! It be fixed!
We put probably another 30-40K miles on that tranny before I broke
reverse while being exceedingly stupid... (Yes, a C6 is quite heavy,
but a guy and his girlfriend can replace it with only a cheap floor jack.)
Years later, a friend had the same problems with his C6, a new modulator
cured his also.
Maybe Kens problems are deeper inside, but I'd put good odds on it just
being the modulator...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:45:45 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Clark update

>I did some crawling around under a 76' F-700 and found a clark. It
>was packing a 391. Does the 391 have the same bellhousing pattern as
>the 390?

Yes.

howabout the crank flange to bolt on the flywheel? It
>definatly had the 13" clutch.

Yes.

The bolt spacing looked the same as the
>truck four speeds. I didn't have a tape with me, but I did the old
>bailing wire trick. The shifter also looked to be about the same
>location inside the cab. The Clark is also much longer. If someone
>has a 390 and 391 crank to compare I would like to know.

The cranks are essentially the same. The 391 crank is steel and has
a larger snout where the front damper/pulley goes.
If You turn down the snout to accept the pass car damper, a 391 crank
will drop right into a 390 block and bolt up to the stock flywheel.
I think the clark should bolt right up to the 390.

Lucky dog, where's my clark?

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 11:59:23 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 1969 Lincoln 2-door --anything worth saving?

i would keep the whole motor, and trans. if it is a c-6, it has the HD
cluth packs i am told. if the motor has the power steering pump on the end
of the crank instead of belt driven, it makes for a nice installation into
a truck. and, these parts are getting harder to find. i dread the day i
will need to fix mine. the cranks are different and so are the timing
cover and wsater pump than a later model 460. the con rods may not be the
CJ type, i do not know. the pistons are good if they are not too beat.
the heads are good to keep, but make sure you keep the rockers too, or you
will be buying new rollers, as i do not think that the rail type are
available anymore, and the newer pedastal type won't fit.

sleddog

"There is nothing new except what is forgotten"

- ----------
From: Chekerdpst aol.com[SMTP:Chekerdpst aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 1997 9:51 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: 1969 Lincoln 2-door --anything worth saving?

Hi everyone-I haven't posted much to the list, but have learned quite a bit
by reading your communications. A friend gave me a 69 Lincoln today, and I
am curious what parts I should remove before hauling it away to the local
yard. The car runs and drives, but suffers from severe rust. A plaque
under
the hood says "11.5 to 1 compression" and "365 horsepower". I am thinking
that this might make my 78 camper special really haul. (Currently powered
by
460/C-6/non posi.) From your postings, I know to keep the heads, and
probably
the con rods and pistons. Any help much appreciated. Darren






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:00:10 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: 460 '69 Vintage

I'd keep the whole driveline. Someone might want the 9"rear, and the
C6 might come in handy as a spare someday. I'd install the 460 in the
truck, AFTER I peraonally went through it and replaced such things as
timing gears/chain; oil pump, did a head rework as well as an overhaul
of the block assy. These old buggers are quite impressive in stock
form, and I think you can live with the compression as long as you
aren't keeping it under a heavy load most of the time. If that is the
case, I might go for a bit lower compression.

>> The car runs and drives, but suffers from severe rust. A plaque
under
the hood says "11.5 to 1 compression" and "365 horsepower". I am
thinking
that this might make my 78 camper special really haul. (Currently
powered by
460/C-6/non posi.) From your postings, I know to keep the heads, and
probably
the con rods and pistons. Any help much appreciated. Darren

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 11:04:00 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: now I am really confused

>From: Don
>Subject: now I am really confused
>Okay, now I am really confused......
>heads say D1AE-A1C
>block says D1AE-A1C
Yo Don:

According to my references, any head or block with the numbers D1AE-A?? is
from an early generation ('71-'74) 400. The early generation 400 cylinder
heads do not have the thermactor/EGR ports. The D1AE number w/ no suffix
is from a later series ('71-'73) 351C 2V cylinder head.

>btw.....what is a GOOD book with all the numbers in it ?

IMHO, the BEST book you can get on the 335 series engines (351C/351M/400),
is "How to Rebuild Ford V8 Engines" by Tom Monroe, published by HP Books,
ISBN 0-89586-036-8. It covers all the casting numbers and other specs.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:02:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Jason K. Schechner"
Subject: Re: C-6 weight

It's about 140 lbs without fluid or torque converter. TC is
around 30 lbs or so.

- -Jason

- -----
Jason K. Schechner - check out www.cauce.org and help ban spam-mail.
===The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has bounds===

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:34:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 460 '69 Vintage

> From: am14 chrysler.com
> Subject: 460 '69 Vintage
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:00:10 -0500

> I'd keep the whole driveline. Someone might want the 9"rear, and
> the C6 might come in handy as a spare someday. I'd install the 460

That rear end probably has the 28 spline axles so isn't as strong as
the truck axles (31)?

Is a 4 wheeler really a 4 wheeler
with no oil in the front end?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:49:42 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: MOPAR Minivan

Kevin:
Did you ever get your neighbors Minivan going???

Just curious.

Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:14:33 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C-6 weight

> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:02:24 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Jason K. Schechner"
> Subject: Re: C-6 weight

> It's about 140 lbs without fluid or torque converter. TC is
> around 30 lbs or so.

Come on over to my house and I'll give you my bronco if you can pick
up my 205 with your bare hands and walk away with it! Remember,
Jason, they used to make them right :-)


Is a 4 wheeler really a 4 wheeler
with no oil in the front end?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:04:03 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Dist Won't seat

Can't remember who this was, but did you ever get the Distributor to
seat properly????

>> the distributor seated all the way. It sticks up about 1 inch.
Azie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:54:45 -0500
From: Alan Horwitz
Subject: Sudden loss of oil pressure

I finally have e-mail again, so I can access this list-server.
I give thanks to Azzie and Ron for responding to my first message.
I'm losing oil pressure, all of a sudden, on my 1977 F-250
4x4 CrewCab with a 351-M. It happens after a warmup of several miles
at highway speeds. Everything seems normal until roughly 40 psi( 2200
rpm), then the needle on my mechanical S.W. oil pressure gauge suddenly
drops to 5 psi or lower( I shut it off, at this point). When I restart
the engine, the pressure is normal again, but the incident repeats after
a few miles.
The truck has 177,000 miles and the engine was rebuilt,
supposedly at 100,000 miles with new bearings. Since I've owned it,
the pressure was high( near 80 psi with 20W-50 oil) when cold, and
much lower( at or slightly below 20 psi at idle in the summer)
when hot, but I've always had more than 1 psi per 100 rpm. The engine
runs smoothly with no bad noises and little blowby.
I replaced the original oil pump shortly after buying the truck,
3 summers ago. The original pump probably failed because the crud that
was sealing it was dissolved by the Gunk Motor Flush that I used to
clean out the sludge. The symptoms were similar, except that the
pressure decreased to zero much more slowly after each restart.
The replacement was a Dana Perfect Circle high volume oil pump.
How can it be bad after only 3 years and 13,000 mile?!! Even the
pressure relief valve shouldn't be sticking in the open position!
I don't think that sludge is blocking the oil pump screen because
I flushed the engine thoroughly, and I've changed the oil frequently.
I've never noticed gunk coming out when I change oil. I can't see
how the oil filter can cause a pressure drop, short of having a hole
in it.
Can it be the oil pump, or should my truck and its engine
part ways? Short of replacing the oil pump again ( a 2 day job for
me, the first time through ) is there another remedy? Can anyone
recommend a REPUTABLE brand for high volume oil pumps?
Thanks for your help.
Alan Horwitz
horwitz marshall.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:29:12 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure

- ----------
From: Alan Horwitz[SMTP:HORWITZ MARSHALL.EDU]
Sent: Friday, November 14, 1997 4:54 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Sudden loss of oil pressure

Can anyone
recommend a REPUTABLE brand for high volume oil pumps?
Thanks for your help.
Alan Horwitz
horwitz marshall.edu





melling and trw are popular sources and i have never heard any complaints
against them, but then i never heard anyone complain about a ford pump
either. it is just that when anyone i know builds a motor, they always get
a high volume pump, even though it costs about 5 hp more than a stock pump.

sleddog

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:11:45 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 '69 Vintage

, and I think you can live with the compression as long as you
aren't keeping it under a heavy load most of the time. If that is the
case, I might go for a bit lower compression.


my first 460 in my truck was a 69 (or 68, the part numbers are 68 on most
parts). 11.5:1 compression and a hotter cam. it ran on crap gas for just
driving around. 87 would work, 89 worked too, 91 or 92 worked best. the
motor would knock sometimes even with the 92 octane. it would only do this
when i held it at WFO for a LONG time. when truck pulling it would start
getting bad just as the sled stopped me. on the street i couldn't hold it
open that long normally, and off raod i could only do that when running
through deep snow on the mountain trails - and then 104+ booster kept the
motor in line. i really abused that motor - it even went 20 miles one day
with no coolant. if you want to use those heads, or any other, a little
polishing to the chambers, and pistion tops allow 11.5:1 with extremely
little ping or knock. but with a really big cam the static compression
falls and allows more than 12:1 and pump gas when full throttle is n't
used, and race gas when the throttle is used hard.

the engine i currently run, has 9.1:1 comp and i have never had a
ping-knock problem, even running 87 octane. i have even pulled using 87
with no problem, and no noticeable difference using 92 octane. it is a lot
cheaper to run with the lower compression. gas prices just keep going up!

sleddog


"Defend me from my friends; I can defend myself from my enemies"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 21:38:46 -0500 (EST)
From: DBrents105 aol.com
Subject: Re: 1969 Lincoln 2-door --anything worth saving?

You have one of the '"Good" 460s. I would keep the whole engine and all
accessories. I would also keep the rear end. It probably has a fairly high
gear ratio but it should be a heavy duty 9". Much coveted by race car
drivers.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 19:46:08 -0800
From: "Chris Samuel"
Subject: Hello All

This could be considered a test, and if successful you will be reading this;
of course if you are not reading this I will be cussing a Microsoft!!!!

Anyone know if/ where I can find the optional rear side sliding windows that
were available for my 79 Bronco?

Thanks
Chris

79 Bronco, 400M, T-18, 4.56:1, 36 Swampers, & too many $$$ stuffed in it!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 22:04:55 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure

Melling is a pump with a real good reputation. First I'd try replacing the
oil filter and while its off, checking the check valve and pop valve which
are part of the oil filter mount. Also put a mechanical gauge on a short
stalk under the hood. Jump out and check it.

I am assuming your 351 M has hydraulic lifters--a good sign is that they
aren't collapsing. Sounds like you do have good oil pressure-its just not
registering.

- ----------
> From: Alan Horwitz
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Subject: Sudden loss of oil pressure
> Date: Friday, November 14, 1997 3:54 PM
>
> I finally have e-mail again, so I can access this list-server.
> I give thanks to Azzie and Ron for responding to my first message.
> I'm losing oil pressure, all of a sudden, on my 1977 F-250
> 4x4 CrewCab with a 351-M. It happens after a warmup of several miles
> at highway speeds. Everything seems normal until roughly 40 psi( 2200
> rpm), then the needle on my mechanical S.W. oil pressure gauge suddenly
> drops to 5 psi or lower( I shut it off, at this point). When I restart
> the engine, the pressure is normal again, but the incident repeats after
> a few miles.
> The truck has 177,000 miles and the engine was rebuilt,
> supposedly at 100,000 miles with new bearings. Since I've owned it,
> the pressure was high( near 80 psi with 20W-50 oil) when cold, and
> much lower( at or slightly below 20 psi at idle in the summer)
> when hot, but I've always had more than 1 psi per 100 rpm. The engine
> runs smoothly with no bad noises and little blowby.
> I replaced the original oil pump shortly after buying the truck,
> 3 summers ago. The original pump probably failed because the crud that
> was sealing it was dissolved by the Gunk Motor Flush that I used to
> clean out the sludge. The symptoms were similar, except that the
> pressure decreased to zero much more slowly after each restart.
> The replacement was a Dana Perfect Circle high volume oil pump.
> How can it be bad after only 3 years and 13,000 mile?!! Even the
> pressure relief valve shouldn't be sticking in the open position!
> I don't think that sludge is blocking the oil pump screen because
> I flushed the engine thoroughly, and I've changed the oil frequently.
> I've never noticed gunk coming out when I change oil. I can't see
> how the oil filter can cause a pressure drop, short of having a hole
....


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