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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 17:17:27 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #333
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Tuesday, November 4 1997 Volume 01 : Number 333



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Front end swap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Seat belt retrofit? [steve.peters mts.com]
Re: Storing my truck for the winter ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Fw: Hello Fromthe Old Side of the Tracks! ["deconblu" ]
Re: Engine RUST !! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Clueless [am14 chrysler.com]
Re: Seats ?? [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long) [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
'66 transmission [John Strauss ]
Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long) [John MacNamara ]
Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long) ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
power windows for a 78 F350? [jlringard mysurf.com (Mysurf_Lynn Ringard)]
Re: power windows for a 78 F350? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: CompCams 252H [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: '75 FE360 2V Horse Power? [SuperMagot aol.com]
RE: Cauretor for aod? [Sleddog ]
RE: Seats ?? [Sleddog ]
Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long) [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long) [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: Engine RUST !! [Sleddog ]
RE: Engine RUST !! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter ["Dave Resch"]
RE: Engine RUST !! [Sleddog ]
Re: CompCams 252H [Claypaul aol.com]
351 ?"M"? [abbott ]
Mercury 390 2V ["Ron" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 07:40:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Front end swap

> From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
> Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:48:08 -0500
> Subject: Front end swap

> spd. because as someone on this list pointed out he went through
> three 3 spds. I don't want to go to all of this trouble trying to
> get everything right and be driving along and the tranny tears up.

Remind me again, what engine?

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:30:24 -0500
From: steve.peters mts.com
Subject: Seat belt retrofit?




______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat belt retrofit?
Author: Ken Payne at smtpgate
Date: 11/3/97 9:30 PM



Has anyone added seat/shoulder belts to their truck? I have a '65
F100 and would like to be able to strap in a child seat.

thanks

steve.peters mts.com



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:13:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Storing my truck for the winter

> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 97 03:43:17 UT
> From: "Jesse Marcellus"
> Subject: Storing my truck for the winter

> On a lighter note, from a female point of view, the best way to
- -- snip --
> to let you pull parts from so you can take them home and realize
> that the part you pulled of your truck in the first place maybe
> isn't that bad after all! (Doesn't make them any less fun to visit

The older more girzzled of us junkies just go to get cores to rebuild
because we realize they probably have more miles on them than the
ones we're fixing but occasionally you find something really nice
like the 88 3 tube HO radiator I got for $150 many years ago for my
460. Some parts that usually don't wear out like carbs and dura
spark modules (tho they only cost $23 new) are pretty safe. When I
was younger I actually used to go to get tie rods and ends (yukkkkk!)
and when you're in a jam with no cash, used engines, as is, sometimes
can tide you over (if you can put them in yourself) and sometimes you
can get a pretty good deal on the tires which come mounted usually
and already balanced as well if you're lucky enough to find them in
your application (I have) :-)

I think I'm in withdrawal since I've been working 6-7 days and more
hours than a sane person should for many years now. My bronco has
infused new life into me like nothing else ever has, even my van,
well.....................maybe not the van (I loved my van, slobber,
snivel, snort, boo hoo) :-(

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:18:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter

> From: FOMOCONUT aol.com
> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 00:02:19 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter

> I really do stand by my opinion on this visual refference
> O2 sensor settup and believe in tuning with the 4 gas
> analyzer and chassis dyno

Would that be the Sears $49 version?

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:22:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter

> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter
> Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:21:51 -0600

> My understanding is that with either type of sensor you can't read
> true Air/fuel ratios but can only determine whether the engine is
> rich or lean. To me that's valuable info that will help take alot
> of the trial and error out of carb tweaking. I plan to mount a
> single sensor to read one bank of cylinders with the assumption that
> the carb is balanced. Not as good for troubleshooting or monitoring
> but OK for what I need.

Same conclusion most of us reached but at Clint Eastwood said, I
believe in Italian "For a few dollars more.........." :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 06:45:11 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Fw: Hello Fromthe Old Side of the Tracks!

Can someone give Don a hand. I didn't have the information he needs.
Thanks!


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Don & Teresa Neighbors
To: deconblu gte.net
Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 8:08 PM
Subject: Hello Fromthe Old Side of the Tracks!


> Hey!
> I got used to seeing your comments on the Truck Digest, so I miss your
>warped wit since I found myself in the pre '60 group.
> Got the old truck running, but only managed to put about 100 miles on it
>before some rings let go and it started burning prodiguous quantities of
>oil. The last time that happened to mey i got pulled over by the cops, so I
>parked the truck.
> Know anybody that knows his Y-block casitng numbers? I bought that Y-block
>from Paul Gayda, and I want to make sure what it is, or for that matter,
>the ID of the engine currently residing in the engine bay. Both are
>supposed to be 239 Y-blocks, but there a lot lot of little differences
>between the two.
> I'm stumped!
> Don Neighbors

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:06:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Engine RUST !!

> Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 01:54:15 -0500
> From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
> Subject: Engine RUST !!

> Does anybody have any suggestions on how to stop engine rust ?
> I'm rebuilding a 460 slowly and am continualy fighting off rust !! I
> had block boiled and new cam bearings installed along with frost
> plugs, let it sit for a few weeks, rust appeared in cylinders and on

Brian, you have to keep it oiled up or it will rust in a matter of
minutes. Don't be afraid to keep lots of oil on it. Oil all the
parts as you put it together too. All you need to keep the dust off
is a big trash bag wrapped tighly around it in such a way that you
can take it back off easily and then re cover it when done working on
it. There's no magic to it. keep the floor clean where you work so
you don't stir up a lot of dust and you'll be fine :-)

When you put the lifters in, put high pressure lub, either the stuff
that came with the cam or 90 or even 140 (if you have some) wt gear
lube on the lobes and lifters and don't be afraid to goop it on.
This protects the cam and lifters during breakin. When you get it
all done and in make sure everything is set up and ready to run for a
long time because you should run the enhgine at 2000 rpms with no
load and without shutting it down to break in the cam for at least
20 minutes so have a good box fan handy to help with the cooling
etc.. Make sure you monitor the engine temp and oil pres. while
breaking it in.

> stove, I find the rust to be very frustrating. I probably won't fire
> up engine till next April or so.

All the more reason to keep it well oiled! Don't worry about the
little bit of oil in the cylinders etc. it will burn right off with
no damage. Soak the pistons/rod assy's in a can of engine oil
before installing. This will ensure the wrist pins and rings are
well protected as well :-)


Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:28:37 -0500
From: am14 chrysler.com
Subject: Clueless

Excellent post, Ken, and I don't think the apologu is necessary.
>Hope he isn't as clueless with women as he is with the above
instructions.


Azie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:43:26 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Seats ??

>>We got our first snow here in Minnesota this weekend and I put my
>>'64 into the barn for its winter restoration. The 460 is on the engine
>>stand, new crank was installed this weekend and I sat in the truck and
>>day dreamed of next summer and how it would feel to drive it down the
>>road !! But some ding-a-ling put bucket seats in it that feel like your
>>sitting in the basement. Anybody got any hints on what seats from what
>>vehicle will make it feel right??
>>
>> Brian
>
> Please Brian, don't do this to me. I'm going to get in trouble! This is
>like a football on a tee. A set-up I just can't resist. I won't, I won't do
>it, I won't!
> Oh, I don't know. How about a '64 Ford Truck! That could do it! :) I'm
>sorry, I couldn't help it. My name is Deacon and I have a problem!
>
>

Deked again eh!! (oops, I give away my nationality)

These bucket seats, what are they from? I might like them for my truck. I
saw a 67 mercury m100 (yes, that's mercury for you statesiders) with factory
bucket seats--cool!! If this is what you got, I want it no matter how many
rips in the seat.

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:48:04 -0800
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

Steve:

I guess then I oughta keep my stock ford dualplane, and my biceps. Any
hints about making it work better, i.e. shot peening or whatever they call
it, that would improve performance? Since I'm not spending the several
hundred bills on the edelbroke...

Alternatively, does weiand or anybody make any kind of manifold like a
tunnel-ram for this engine (390) BTW nobody replied to my offenhauser
question so I'm a bit miffed. FTR this is what it said:

A guy up here is selling an offy single plane intake for a 390, all alum.
Is this a good intake for street performance, and does it need a
double-pumper to run properly?


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71f2504x4
67mercm100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 10:02:06 -0600
From: John Strauss
Subject: '66 transmission

>I am in the process of buying a 66 that needs a transmission. It has a 352ci
>in it. What other transmission will work in this truck? I hope that I might
>be able to find one in a salvage yard.
>
Is it manual or automatic? Does it have a transmission now that doesn't
work or is the unit missing? Are you wanting to go back with what came in
it originally or do you just want something to work? More info please.


_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, _} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:20:31 -0800
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

marko maryniak wrote:

> Steve:
>
> I guess then I oughta keep my stock ford dualplane, and my biceps. Any
> hints about making it work better, i.e. shot peening or whatever they call
> it, that would improve performance? Since I'm not spending the several
> hundred bills on the edelbroke...

Ford Power Parts makes a several dual plane manifolds intended for the 428 but
should work on a 390. If your interested I could email you the info.

> Alternatively, does weiand or anybody make any kind of manifold like a
> tunnel-ram for this engine (390) BTW nobody replied to my offenhauser
> question so I'm a bit miffed. FTR this is what it said:

Ford Power Parts makes a tunnel wedge for medium riser heads. Dove
engineering makes tunnel ram for medium and hi-rise heads.

> A guy up here is selling an offy single plane intake for a 390, all alum.
> Is this a good intake for street performance, and does it need a
> double-pumper to run properly?

A dual plane is better for the street than a single plane. The dual has a
better low end.

Thanks
John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

>
>
> marko in vancouver
> marko helix.net
> 71f2504x4
> 67mercm100
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 12:14:42 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

> Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:48:04 -0800
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

> Alternatively, does weiand or anybody make any kind of manifold like
> a tunnel-ram for this engine (390) BTW nobody replied to my
> offenhauser question so I'm a bit miffed. FTR this is what it said:
>
> A guy up here is selling an offy single plane intake for a 390, all
> alum. Is this a good intake for street performance, and does it need
> a double-pumper to run properly?

Since I'm not an FE man at this point and have never built one I let
the other guys handle this one but there are some simple rules of
thumb which apply to any engine build:

Single planes are usually not very good for low rpm work or normal
street driving. They generally make power well above 2500 rpm so
high stall converters or lower rear end gearing is usually required
to make them happy.

Tunnel rams are even worse for high rpms and are usually only on
racing or show (or strictly show off) vehicles. You could have lots
of fun in stop light drags but that's about it for the street.

Offy does make a nice quadrajet manifold with split primary and
secondary planes. I'm not sure if the primary plane is split or not
at this point but it's one I'm considering for my next 460 build.

Dual planes are usually recommened for street use, especially daily
driver or off road since they will give the best distribution and
economy as well as low end torque. Edlebrock has a good one, the
Weiand Stealth is rated pretty good for low end as well as good top
end and the Blue Thunder has been mentioned many times as well (can't
remember who makes it) and the various others by Holley and Offy.
I'm a staunch spread bore guy but unfortunately Offy is the only
company I know of that offers anything for us ford lovers.

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 09:36:09 -0800
From: jlringard mysurf.com (Mysurf_Lynn Ringard)
Subject: power windows for a 78 F350?

Has anybody done a power window conversion on a 78 Ford pickup? Will the
power setup from a 80 and up pickup work?Any information would be great.
Also I'm still working on my 460 oiling problem. I had crane
variable duration lifters when I started and had to take them out. The
duration on my came was not long enough to have the lifters work
properly(208 .050). They started making noise like they were out of oil even
though ooil pressure was at 40psi. I replaced them with standard lifters and
now I have more power, no noisy lifters and about 10 psi more pressure when
it's all warmed up. Also I installed a ford engine oil cooler and pressure
is up 20 psi. I still have to put the trailer on and see if the oil pressure
will stay above 40psi.
Thanks Jon, ( a member of the Ford family)


78 F350 4X4
89 Tbird
69 Mach 1
65 Mustang fastback
K
R

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 13:00:06 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: power windows for a 78 F350?

> Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 09:36:09 -0800
> From: jlringard mysurf.com (Mysurf_Lynn Ringard)
> Subject: power windows for a 78 F350?

> about 10 psi more pressure when it's all warmed up. Also I installed
> a ford engine oil cooler and pressure is up 20 psi. I still have to
> put the trailer on and see if the oil pressure will stay above
> 40psi.

The cooler hooks up at the filter adapter right? So it's between the
pump and the rotatiing engine parts right? How did you gain oil
pressure? Seems to me like it should have dropped since most senders
are located near the upper gallerys where pressure is lowest anyway
and the cooler probably absorbs some pressure as well?

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I thought most oiling systems were total
loss in the sense that there is no return line so the cooler can't be
plumed into the return like we sometimes do on auto trannys?

Boy! Have I been in a fog all my life or is this something new???
It suddenly isn't clear in my head but I can't picture a single part
of the engine lub system that returns anywhere? And the sender is
out there in the system past the filter so how can this be???

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:21:02 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: CompCams 252H

>>
>> Why did you chose the 252 over the 260? Does anyone have any comments
>> about this cam versus some of the newer grinds for a torque motor?
>> Basically I'm looking for bottom end grunt.
>> dale c
>> '79 351M
>
>I went to Thompson's racing in Tucson Az and they told me that the Crane
>cam I had picked out wasn't right for a 360fe engine as it was a dual
>pattern cam and it was designed around a single pattern cam. He said he
>could sell me either one. :-)

Hmmm, most folks I've discussed it with highly recommend a dual
pattern cam for FE.
The reason for the dual patterns is that the intake ports are big
and nice and flow real well, but the exhaust ports are small and
pretty much suck.
The dual pattern gives a little more exhaust duration to help give
the gases time to get out thru that tiny/poor flowing little hole...

Besides, the FE "designed around" a single pattern cam isn't totally
correct.
The GT390 motors used a dual pattern cam. Ford knew how to get more
power out of the FE when they wanted it.... (-:

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:42:34 -0500 (EST)
From: SuperMagot aol.com
Subject: Re: '75 FE360 2V Horse Power?

In a message dated 97-11-04 04:35:50 EST, you write:


for trucks the right year or anything else that would tell me the HP rpm
and Torque rpm ratings for my '75 F-150 360 2100 2barrel. Anybody know? >>

Did you look on the Drivers door for the tag? I know some older trucks have
the HP rating on a little metal tag on the door.

- - Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:32:40 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cauretor for aod?

just a suggestion, but maybe some place like advanced adapters knows a solution to your question.

sleddog

- ----------
From: SuperMagot[SMTP:SuperMagot aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 1997 5:36 PM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: Re: Cauretor for aod?

In a message dated 97-11-02 13:01:03 EST, you write:


that I can use with my aod tv rod ? Evry one keeps telling me I dont
need the rod they are confused this is not a kickdown rod any help will
be appreciated >>

I cant tell you if any of those mfgs have carburetors that are designed for
AOD (i am almost sure Holley would) but I have heard that the carb must be
designed to work with the AOD or you will hose it up.





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:41:08 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Seats ??

i have in my 77 buckets from a lincoln. sorry i do not know year, but most
likely mid 70s. they are very large, very wide and fit in so that i (6"+)
can fit in, but would like 1-2 inches more room. they have arm rests on
the inboard side that flip up-down. pretty nice (except now my springs are
broken on the driver seat!) the height is very nice and they were always
comfortable on long trips (over 2 hours).

sleddog

- ----------
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt[SMTP:milbrand visi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 1:28 AM
To: Fordtrucks
Subject: Seats ??

We got our first snow here in Minnesota this weekend and I put my
'64 into the barn for its winter restoration. The 460 is on the engine
stand, new crank was installed this weekend and I sat in the truck and
day dreamed of next summer and how it would feel to drive it down the
road !! But some ding-a-ling put bucket seats in it that feel like your
sitting in the basement. Anybody got any hints on what seats from what
vehicle will make it feel right??

Brian






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 11:51:29 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

I sez:
>> Considering the $300 total cost, uh, I don't think I'd do it again.

Deacon sez:
>OK. So it was a little trouble installing and don't do nothing. How does it
>look? Come on Steve let get our priorities straight! :)


Well, I didn't like the looks too much at first, but once it got a
couple coats of Ford blue it looks almost as good as the stocker!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 11:51:26 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)

>
>Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:11:03 -0800
>From: danadeb pacbell.net
>Subject: Re: FE390 (e-broke story, long)
>
>Steve,
>I knew you could sum it up in less then 1000 words! ;)
>
>Dana
>

A man of few words? Me?...

Here's the digest version for those who couldn't wade thru
the long one:

Bought one, wish I hadn't!

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty

Measure it with a micrometer,
mark it with chalk,
cut it with an axe...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:43:32 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!

first, any where you tough it with your fingers will rust. so, clean
thourally and spray on CRC or WD40 or such. keep it wrapped up to stay
clean. i stored a crank, blocks and heads for over 2 yrs. like this in a
damp basement with no problems. i did occasionally spray a new coat on
them. maybe once every 6 monthes or so.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt[SMTP:milbrand visi.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 1:54 AM
To: Fordtrucks
Subject: Engine RUST !!

Does anybody have any suggestions on how to stop engine rust ?
I'm rebuilding a 460 slowly and am continualy fighting off rust !!
I had block boiled and new cam bearings installed along with frost
plugs, let it sit for a few weeks, rust appeared in cylinders and on
most of block, cleaned this off and painted block. I now installed crank
and will soon install pistons,cam,heads, but will not be closing up
intake or oil pan for awhile. should I spray with a light oil to protect
engine ? or will this just attract dirt? should I shrink wrap the block
in plastic or will this just create more rust with condensation ? barn
is not heated unless I fire up the wood stove, I find the rust to be
very frustrating. I probably won't fire up engine till next April or so.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!

Thanks

Brian
'64 F100 shortbox
'78 F150 4x4
'96 F150 4x4 shortbox
'97 J**p wrangler






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:27:15 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!
> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:43:32 -0500

> up to stay clean. i stored a crank, blocks and heads for over 2

That reminds me, always store cranks on end, never, never, never lay
one down on it's side for more than a few minutes without supporting
all the journals evenly such as in the block. The weight of the
crank is such that it will take a "Set" and not run true once this
happens. The best way for long term storage is in the block with
main caps bolted down but, barring that, you should hang it from the
damper bolt using an eye which centers the weight over it's axis. It
takes a pretty stout hook for this BTW :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 11:13:51 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter

>From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
>Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor/Meter
>
>So Dave.......how does one go about putting an O2 sensor on
>this motor and still keep the CAT purring?
Yo Dale:

Ya got me there. Maybe that was one of the reasons Ford quit making them
in 1983, since they were about to switch over to feedback carburetors and
injection systems (which require the O2 sensor) to meet the approval of the
Smog Nazis. Interestingly, the air injection passage in the M-block heads
is the main design difference between them and other 335 series heads
(i.e., 351 Cleveland cylinder heads).

>out of carb tweaking. I plan to mount a single sensor to read
>one bank of cylinders with the assumption that the carb is
>balanced. Not as good for troubleshooting or monitoring but
>OK for what I need.
On the '84 Crown Vic I just bought, the 302 has throttle body injection and
uses a single O2 sensor in the right side exhaust manifold. Apparently,
this is good enough for EEC engine monitoring and mixture control. Air is
injected downstream from the manifolds, just in front of the cats. (Yep,
this baby has dual cats from the factory, going into a Y and single exhaust
out the back.)

Maybe if you really want that O2 sensor, you should disable the air
injection system (at least temporarily while you tweak the carb).
Otherwise, I know of a place in Colorado where you can bring that puppy and
they'll furrow their brows and tsk tsk and shake their heads, but they do
have 4-gas analyzers and chassis dynos (heh heh :-). Heck, I even thought
about taking my truck there, but I can't get it to fail an emissions test,
even with the EGR working!

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 17:25:09 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!

i stored mine on end on the floor with the flex plate bolted on as a stand.
i have never had a problem with this method. most shops i go to have them
setting this way or hung as you said. but, a crank may sit for much longer
than a couple of minutes on its side.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 1997 11:27 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Engine RUST !!
> Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:43:32 -0500

> up to stay clean. i stored a crank, blocks and heads for over 2

That reminds me, always store cranks on end, never, never, never lay
one down on it's side for more than a few minutes without supporting
all the journals evenly such as in the block. The weight of the
crank is such that it will take a "Set" and not run true once this
happens. The best way for long term storage is in the block with
main caps bolted down but, barring that, you should hang it from the
damper bolt using an eye which centers the weight over it's axis. It
takes a pretty stout hook for this BTW :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --






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