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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 12:11:51 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #323
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Friday, October 31 1997 Volume 01 : Number 323



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Payloads [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
Re: Payloads #320 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Econoline Truck FS Sacramento Area [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, J]
Re: changing fluid in 4spd/tcase ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: brakes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Flywheel Teeth ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Is this message being received? [Paul ]
RE: 460 Head Gaskets and rods [Sleddog ]
Re: Header selection for FE... [SuperMagot aol.com]
RE: C6 re-install, any tips? ["John F. Bauer III" ]
Re: Is this message being received? [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: C6 re-install, any tips? [danadeb pacbell.net]
RE: C6 re-install, any tips? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us ]
Re: Flywheel Teeth [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: '61 Spicer Oil Question ["Eric" ]
77 V8-400 FIring order... ["Daniel H. Jenkins" ]
Re: Payloads ["Dave Resch"]
Re: 77 V8-400 FIring order... ["deconblu" ]
Torque Specifications Question [Keith Srb ]
Re: 77 V8-400 FIring order... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Torque Specifications Question ["deconblu" ]
77 V8-400 Firing order... Again! ["Daniel H. Jenkins"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:20:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:30:00 -0500
> From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

> There have actually been two stroke engines with two bores and one
> chamber. The crankpins were offset so one bore did intake and one
> did exhaust.

Dave, two strokes fire at the top of EVERY stroke so intake , exhaust
etc all happen to both cylinders on every revolution of the crank???

Seems like I did see a design once where the pistons were opposing
and acted as the top of each other's combustion chamber and it had
two cranks?

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 04:29:27 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: Re: Payloads

Allright, I'll fess up. In addition to the '64 F-100 CrewCab, I own
Volkswagen busses and am on a VW bus email group.

There was a discussion early this year on payloads.
All you truck types might be surprised to know that VW busses are
rated as a ONE ton payload vehicle, always have been.
Puny vehicle for such a payload, it appears.

The explanation that finally made sense includes some understanding
of the difference between the European and American way of rating.

In Europe, the rating (1 ton) assumes a dry vehicle. To get the actual
payload capability, subtract the weight of oil, gas, driver, passengers,
etc.
from the payload rating. So real payload is closer to 3/4 ton.

The American ratings assume the payload is in ADDITION to all of the
above stuff. One ton is one ton.

My F-100 CrewCab is a 1/2 ton truck, with the additional weight of the
extra cab it weighs in at the dump at about 4800 lbs, payload empty.
The GVW on the tag is 5000. Not a lot of room left for payload!

Understandable why Ford based their production crewcabs on the
F250 & F350, not the F100.

We carried a (real weight) 3/4 ton camper on that truck for many years.
Kinda easy to understand why the springs are in need of attention!
I know for a fact that I had over 1 ton of stuff loaded in that truck,
dirt full to
the gunwales back in the (kid) days where VOLUME in the bed was the
limiting factor. We don't care about no steenking payload rating!

- - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab and assorted VW's too.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:17:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Payloads #320

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Payloads #320
> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 15:47:15 -0800

> >If you have a half-ton,( F-150) you should be able put
> >1000 LBs. on the truck safely minus your weight and any passengers.
> > 1500 LBs. for a three-quarter ton(F-250) and 2000 LBs. for a
> >one-ton(F-350).

Weigh the vehicle empty with full tank of gas then suptract that
weight from the GVW on the door post or under the hood or in the
glove box or in the RED BOOK and you have your payload. Now double
that and you have what you can carry for a shot distance now and then
:-) I'm going to add some leaves to my 78 F-150 so I can fill the
bed up with gravel and still steer it. That should boost it to a 2
ton payload at 5% duty cycle (would be more but tires won't handle
it) :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 05:24:49 -0800
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: Econoline Truck FS Sacramento Area

Hello Ford truck types!

It's a truck, no, it's a van. It's both!
You remember, the van front, the truck rear.

I've driven by this 'truck' a few times,
knowing that somewhere out there is someone
who REALLY wants one. Finally dawns on me
that "Hey, it's a FORD!" and I'm on a
Ford Truck list, duh! Sometimes I'm REAL slow.

Anyway, this person had a For Sale sign on their
Ford Econoline truck in the driveway, but recently
rolled it back to the car port.

If anyone out there is REALLY interested in obtaining
one of these rare beasts, drop me a line, I'll stop by
and get some particulars and phone number. No clue
as to the asking price.

It appears to be in good shape,
no major bashes, original paint.

There's gotta be one of you out there just
dying to get a hold of one of these trucks!

It's located in Grass Valley, CA, about 50 miles
East of Sacramento. I drive by it everytime I go
to town, so it's not a problem to stop by.

- - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab
I already got one rare beast, don't need another (yet)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:40:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: changing fluid in 4spd/tcase

> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 17:41:07 -0800
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: changing fluid in 4spd/tcase

> I have been using 140w lately. I got a good deal on about 20
> gallons or so. I have used it in the diffs and the transmission(
> just to top off) and in the transfer case( just to top off). I
> works fine in the 100 deg heat of summer put for winter I think it
> might be a little thick for the transmission at 20 deg. :-(

I used 140 in my F-600 but I think it's a bit thick for light trucks.
The oil has to get to the bearings and between the gears and
syncros to do it's job and it's the oil film not the thickness of the
oil viscosity that protects the metal parts. Even in 100 degree heat
I'd be a littly leary of 140 myself but I agree, synthetic is
absolutely the best way to go due to it's natural ability to retain
designed viscosity without lots of additives.

Rule of thumb is if the case is cast iron it uses the 85/90, if it's
aluminum it uses ATF but make sure first, look in your owners manual
to be safe :-)


Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:47:51 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: brakes

> From: Litemeup aol.com
> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 22:15:44 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: brakes

> squeeks a little while braking however it squeeks while making right
> hand turns and/or when going around curves to the right. I have
> taken the drum off and checked things out, sanded the shoe lightly,
> and still the squeek persists.

Sounds like bearings to me?

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 08:55:17 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Flywheel Teeth

> From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 22:41:50 -0500
> Subject: Flywheel Teeth

> manual trans. which I hate to do but the only 4 spd. I've found is
> 1800.00 so I'll go with the 3 spd. anyway I went and picked up the

The 4 speed over drive was a shoe in for this engine. Can't you find
one of those?

> used flywheel from the yard the other day and got home and started
> to count the teeth and found that there are some that are chipped I
> looked in some of my catalogs and found that new teeth are
> inexpensive but how do you put them on? I don't see any welds is it

The whole dang flywheel is only $80 or so brand new. Why bother with
all that? A few, slightly chipped teeth won't be a problem anyway
but you should have it resurfaced before you put it together or the
clutch may slip under load.

I don't know how they hold them on, I thought the cast flywheels had
them cut right into the cast material? I see lots of after market
ones with separate gear rings tho :-) Probably shrunk on if there's
no weld beads.

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 06:14:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Paul
Subject: Is this message being received?



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 09:21:49 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 460 Head Gaskets and rods

different thicknesses are available for just about any engine. copper
gaskets are the way to go if you can. fel-pro has the best selection to my
knowledge. the copper ones come in .042 - .060 - .080 sizes for a 4.500
bore. try engine systems 770-491-0583. summit probobly has them also, and
the felpro gaskets. they can probobly tell you about the rods too.

i never heard they (rods) are the same as the CJ rods. the CJ rods had a
football shaped bolt head. it is not the bolt that makes it strong, but
the counterbore in the rod for the bolt head. a totally stock, but well
built bottom end can take 6500 rpm. the 460 is known for it's strong
bottom end.

go with a solid, a roller, or a hydraulic roller if available. the solid,
and roller will make the power, but needs valve adjustments regularly. a
big hydraulic will work, but no matter what you get, be sure the spring
pressures are right for the cam or you'll never get the cams potential or
you will wear parts out fast. i am going to a roller cam this winter.
probobly a custom grind. nothing beats a roller for making power! oh
yea, and economy too, as the mustang engineers found out in the mid '80s.

since you are using the CJ heads, you may find that the motor will build
power beyond 6500 rpm. the intakes on these heads are huge! wish i had a
set on my motor! what intake you using? what pistons? etc?

sleddog

- ----------
From: Randy Collins[SMTP:rcollins micron.net]
Sent: Friday, October 31, 1997 1:19 AM
To: 'FORD TRUCKS 61 -79'
Subject: 460 Head Gaskets and rods

In one of the posts regarding compression ratios someone mentioned that
thicker head gaskets were available for the 460. I think it was Sleddog?
Does any one have a source for these? Phone Numbers or an address would
be a helpful!

I am looking for a set of 460 truck rods. The part number for these is
D6VE-AA. Any one have any 460's torn down? I understand that these rods
are identical to the earlier Cobra Jet Rods. I also understand that these
rods when used with good bolts will tolerate a rpm limit of 6500.

The motor I am working on has roller rockers and 3/8" pushrods with guide
plates. I will be using the DO0E-R Cobra Jet heads. If I want to be able
to rev that high should I try to use hydraulic lifters or should I go with
solids...or a roller setup?

I enjoy working on it but dependability would be a plus!

Thanks,

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
(wanna be 460 SUPER COBRA JET)
Lots of parts...some assembly required
460 C-6 R-CODE :)








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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:06:04 -0500 (EST)
From: SuperMagot aol.com
Subject: Re: Header selection for FE...

In a message dated 97-10-31 00:12:26 EST, you write:


I have begun to put on a new exhaust system on my FE 390 and have
started to look for headers. I'm not looking to break any quarter mile
records or anything, and durabilty is an issue as well as price and fit.
Anyone had good results with a certain brand of header for an FE engine?
I've priced Hooker's super competition at 250.00 bucks(kinda pricey but that
was the only one offered for the FE) and Hedman's at 116.00 bucks(I wonder
if I'll have to carve out my truck to get 'em to fit!). Those are the only
two that would fit my truck that I've been able to locate with a quick
search so far. One brand of header, I can't remember which, wouldn't fit
because of a front sway bar. What gives? How could the front sway bar
influence the header? The collecter is at the rear..right? ;~) The
chasis is a 2 wheel drive 75 F250 crew cab, p/s, p/b, manual on the floor
and no a/c. Thanks in advance...Paul
>>
I had a 72 F100 2WD with an FE and had problems with Hooker Headers (they
wouldn't fit right) and finanlly ended up using Hedmans. They were REAL
right on the passenger side (had to remove the starter and but them both in
at the same time) but they worked ok. This truck did have PS, and it was a
C-6.

The Hedmans seemed fine as far as performance and durability.

Hope this helps
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:12:55 -0500
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

If I could trouble the group, got the C6 back from the shop (3rd gear drum
rotted to nothing, guess water got back there or something), tried putting
it in last night. The converter seemed to hit the flex plate before the
housing could line up with the studs on the engine. I was able to get the
top two housing/engine bolts in, but the housing doesn't meet flush with
the other bolt holes. I stopped at this point. Is the converter not all
the way on? It was about 3/8" back from the edge of the housing before I
started to install (after much jiggling to get it that far on the shaft).
I'm certain I can just torque the bolts and everything will appear to be
installed correctly, but don't want to experience this "grenading" first hand.

Any tips?

John

>At 08:12 PM 10/15/97 -0400, you wrote:
>>After reading my own message I found that what I was trying to say is
>>really unclear. College must be rotting my brain.
>>
>>So...install the converter onto the tranny before you stout the whole thing
>>up to the motor. Shove the converter onto the input shaft and make sure it
>>goes on all the way or you will be doing it all over again when the pump
>>grenades.
>>
>>When you install the tranny into the vehicle--with the converter properly
>>seated on the input shaft-- there should be two dowel pins sticking out of
>>the motor side which line up to corresponding holes in the bellhousing. The
>>tranny will hang on these, but it is _always_ best to have a jack under it
>>for support and safety. In this position you should be able to spin the
>>converter and get the flex plate holes to line up with the studs on the
>>converter. The converter also has a drain plug which should line up to a
>>corresponding hole in the flex plate. Line all this up and it should slide
>>right into place without problems.
>>
>>If you are really worried about getting the converter on right have the
>>tranny shop put the converter on the input shaft for you before you leave
>>with your tranny (and your empty wallet).
>>
>>I hope this all makes more sense than the last message. Words have suddenly
>>lost all meaning.
>>
>>Thanks for your patience,
>>
>>DC Beatty
>>
>>----------
>>From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>>Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 5:42 AM
>>To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
>>Subject: C6 re-install, any tips?
>>
>>
>>Group:
>>
>>Just took my C6 out of my van to take to a local shop for repair (if anyone
>>remembers, I'm the guy with the van that won't go into 3rd gear). Noticed
>>the front input shaft to torque converter looks like it will be a challenge
>>to line up and re-install when the time comes. Any experienced with this
>>task have any tips for a newbie? I'm used to manuals where you can grab
>>the
>>rear of the trans in one hand and spin slightly left/right to line up with
>>clutch disc for insertion. Same trip with C6 to torque c. or is there a
>>better way?
>>
>>John
>>
>>96 F150 2wd, 302, 5pd daily driver
>>77 E250 4wd, 460, C6, custom van!
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:22:14 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Is this message being received?

yes!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 07:31:49 -0800
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: C6 re-install, any tips?

I have had it happen that when you are giggling the trans the converter
slips forward before you get every thing lined up. Try again but don't
built any thing in until it goes in ease. As I recall with every thing
in correctly the converter can be moved back and forth an 1/8" or so on
the flex plate ( before it is bolted down to the flex plate that is )
Also be sure that the drain plug on the converter is pocking out one of
the flex plate holes, otherwise you will tweak things when you tighten
things up.
Good Luck

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 11:25:00 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

> Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:12:55 -0500
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

> If I could trouble the group, got the C6 back from the shop (3rd
> gear drum rotted to nothing, guess water got back there or
> something), tried putting it in last night. The converter seemed to
> hit the flex plate before the housing could line up with the studs
> on the engine. I was able to get the top two housing/engine bolts

Make yourself some rounded threaded pins to fit the block about 3"
long or so to guide the tranny on and keep it lined up, Cut the
heads off of some 3-1/2" 7/16 coarse thread bolts and grind or file
the ends round for a lead. (check the thread and bold size with the
tranny bolts)

Now with tranny on floor or jack rotate converter while pushing it in
till three levels (I think) interlock and it's all the way in.
Carefully install the whole mess with the two alignment pins
installed in the block and slide it together aligning the 4 converter
lugs as you go with the flex plate. It should slip into place with
no interference and with out putting ANY pressure on the flex plate
:-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:29:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

- -> Dave, two strokes fire at the top of EVERY stroke so intake , exhaust
- -> etc all happen to both cylinders on every revolution of the crank???

Yep. OSSA used to make one like that. Frankly I never could see any
great benefits to the layout. Evidently neither could anyone else; far
as I know nobody's made anything on that layout for decades.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:33:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Flywheel Teeth

- -> The whole dang flywheel is only $80 or so brand new. Why bother with
- -> all that?

Multiply that by about three for dealer price, or a hair less if you
can get a good price on an aftermarket flywheel.

*Flexplates* you can get that cheap, but they're throwaway items
anyway.


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 13:07:59 EST
From: "Eric"
Subject: Re: '61 Spicer Oil Question

Thanks for responses so far.... I've got a couple of follow-ups..

> LSD additive basically makes the LSD ineffective without using
> the brake method to force it to lock up. It makes the clutches
> slip more easily so it doesn't chatter on turns. I used it once but
> never again :-(

Gary, does this mean you don't us the additive anymore?
Do you just accept the chattering in turns?
Will this have any long term -ill effects on my Spicer 44?
What if I just put 1/2 the amount of LSD juice in there?

I did locate in my Ford Shop Manual (1961) where it says this rear
axle takes 4.5 pints of gear oil.... but what type?!?! The reason
that I am confused is that my manual references a test that you can
perform if you have a chattering problem. It says to mix about a cup
of the current oil with equal parts of rubbing alcohol and see if the
mixture turns blue or yellow and this will tell me if its the correct
oil or not! Now how the h*ll am I supposed to put the correct oil
back in when I want to replace it?!!?!?!?! The only reference I
could find is "Ford Lubricant" and that's it. I guess back in 1961
the mechnics knew what this was.... but in 1997 I sure don't! Oh,
I did also see a refernce to "Group 16" oil..... is this my clue?

Also, IF I ever learn of the correct lube to put in there, and I go
with synthetic like a couple of you suggest, will this present an oil
compatibility problem with the small amounts of original oil that
will refuse to drain?

> If it's a sheet metal cover only like the Dana 44's then cork might
> be a better seal

Yes, mine's the model 44 by Spicer, and now that you mention it, I do
believe it's a sheet metal cover. I think you're right that cork
would probably work better with sheet metal cover than paper would...
Gosh I just love this list!!! I'll try making one of cork.
Is there a cool color to paint the cover while I've got it off, or do
I color coordinate it with the rest of the truck's motif? Any
interior decorators out there?!?! ;-)

Don't mean to bombard you with a million questions, just trying to
get to the bottom of this.
Thanks in advance,
Eric

=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:25:13 -0800 (PST)
From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
Subject: 77 V8-400 FIring order...

Well, I went to replace my 20 year old distributor cap and rotor
today. I pulled off all of the wires with out noting where they went; I
figured I could use the Chilton's manual to replace them. Silly me! I
replaced them according to that order, and the truck won't even start. It
will misfire and then abrubptly die. :( Can anybody out there tell me
which plug wires go where on a 1977 400ci V8 motor? The sooner the
better... My mom is going to kill me for leaving the truck in the
driveway! THanks.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 11:25:54 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Payloads

>From: danadeb pacbell.net
>Subject: Re: Payloads #320
>
>How much weight can your rear tires carry?
>What is the rated load the rear end can carry?
>How much spring travel do you have?
>What is your spring rate?
>
>The rear axle ( Dana 60/70 ) 5200 lbs/7400 lbs Subtract the rear end
>weight ( approx 2000 lbs ) then you could carry 3200 lbs/5400 lbs.
>
>My truck is a "Camper Special". The GVW is 7500 and it weighs
>5000 lbs empty. This means I can put 2500 lbs in it. ( And have, with
>6" of spring travel left ). My truck has the overload spring on top of
>the spring stack.
Yo D'Blues et al:

Dana's comment above is pretty representative of real truck payloads. My
F250 4x4 (not Camper Special) is rated for a GVW of 6750, and with lots of
tools and accessory equipment, it still tips a scale at just a bit over
4600 lbs, which leaves an actual payload capacity of over 2000 lbs!

The general payload ratings of 1000 lbs (0.5 ton) for an F150, 1500 lbs
(0.75 ton) for an F250, 2000 lbs (1.0 ton) for an F350, etc. are general
guidelines as to the trucks "useful" payload capacity. An actual payload
for an F250 of only 1500 lbs would result in a useful payload of well less
than 1000 lbs or so by the time you add all the tools, beer, fat asses,
dogs, and ammo (those lead bullets are pretty heavy!) you'd need for a day
of fun in the woods.

I think the best way to determine your actual payload capacity is to check
for the front and rear axle ratings and vehicle GVW, which should all be
listed on the sticker in the driver's side door jamb. If you know the GVW,
take the truck to a scale and see what she weighs w/ tools, full gas tanks,
etc. Then you'll know your actual payload capacity w/ out guessing.

ciao
Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:42:55 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: 77 V8-400 FIring order...

Look at your intake manifold, the firing order and cylinder numbers should
be on it. The number 1 should be marked on the cap. Be sure you go the right
direction. If all else fails, say Mom I just wanted to thank you for
carrying me for nine months and taking care of me all my life. She'll blame
your father and make you a hot lunch!:)

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel H. Jenkins
To: Ford Trucks
Date: Friday, October 31, 1997 10:26 AM
Subject: 77 V8-400 FIring order...


> Well, I went to replace my 20 year old distributor cap and rotor
>today. I pulled off all of the wires with out noting where they went; I
>figured I could use the Chilton's manual to replace them. Silly me! I
>replaced them according to that order, and the truck won't even start. It
>will misfire and then abrubptly die. :( Can anybody out there tell me
>which plug wires go where on a 1977 400ci V8 motor? The sooner the
>better... My mom is going to kill me for leaving the truck in the
>driveway! THanks.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
>Daniel H. Jenkins Food for thought: John Milton
>djenkins honors.unr.edu wrote _Paradise_Lost_; When his
>Honors Program wife died he wrote _Paradise_
>University of Nevada, Reno _Regained_...
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
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>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 11:57:05 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Torque Specifications Question

I have heard from several people that it is unwise to put anything on the
treads of a bolt when you have to torque it to specification. These people
have told me that putting anything on the treads will give you inaccurate
torque readings. I.E. don't oil the treads in an attempt to make the bold
go in easier. Don't put anti-seize, lock tight, anything on them. Just use
a tap and die on the bolts and the bold holes to clean up and the treads.
From what these people have told me, buy putting something on the threads,
you not reading the torque as being metal contacting metal. You have a thin
layer of non-metallic material between the bolts that will be "crushed" to
a certain extent? I wish I could remember how one person told it to me, it
would make it a lot easier to explain. Wait a minute, I think he said it
had something to due with Fluid Dynamics?


Comments anyone??

Later

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 14:01:28 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 77 V8-400 FIring order...

> Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 10:25:13 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Daniel H. Jenkins"
> Subject: 77 V8-400 FIring order...

> won't even start. It will misfire and then abrubptly die. :( Can
> anybody out there tell me which plug wires go where on a 1977 400ci
> V8 motor? The sooner the better... My mom is going to kill me for
> leaving the truck in the driveway! THanks.

Look on the intake manifold along one of the runners in front of the
carb or thereabouts. The firing order is cast right into it :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 11:08:20 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Torque Specifications Question

Put anti-seize on it if you want it to come off again, loctite if you don't
and RTV for head bolts. If anything, dry threads will be the most likely to
give you an inaccurate torque.

>had something to due with Fluid Dynamics?

You must know Engineers! :)

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Friday, October 31, 1997 10:53 AM
Subject: Torque Specifications Question


>I have heard from several people that it is unwise to put anything on the
>treads of a bolt when you have to torque it to specification. These people
>have told me that putting anything on the treads will give you inaccurate
>torque readings. I.E. don't oil the treads in an attempt to make the bold
>go in easier. Don't put anti-seize, lock tight, anything on them. Just use
>a tap and die on the bolts and the bold holes to clean up and the treads.
>From what these people have told me, buy putting something on the threads,
>you not reading the torque as being metal contacting metal. You have a thin
>layer of non-metallic material between the bolts that will be "crushed" to
>a certain extent? I wish I could remember how one person told it to me, it
>would make it a lot easier to explain. Wait a minute, I think he said it
>had something to due with Fluid Dynamics?
>
>
>Comments anyone??
>
>Later
>
>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>Mesa, AZ
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
>1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
....


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