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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:36:05 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #321
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, October 30 1997 Volume 01 : Number 321



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 351 W problems ["Erick Kulig" ]
'61 Spicer Oil Question ["Erick Kulig" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 351 W problems ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: carb to FI conversion ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Loophole, maybe... [Kevin Lindstedt ]
obsolete ford ["art l" ]
Re: '61 Spicer Oil Question ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Loophole, maybe... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re What did I just buy #320 [STCLASSICS aol.com]
Re: heater [Tom Hogan ]
Re: Exhaust manifold (was: Loophole, maybe...) [Kevin Lindstedt
Re: Payloads #320 [STCLASSICS aol.com]
RE: '61 Spicer Oil Question [Sleddog ]
Re: heater ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
obsolete ford ["art l" ]
Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Confused About the Yblock!? [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
Re: Exhaust manifold (was: Loophole, maybe...) ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Getting back on track! ["deconblu" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 05:59:24 EST
From: "Erick Kulig"
Subject: Re: 351 W problems

Hey Lube,

> I am in the process of working on a 1986 F-250 that the owner dropped a
> 1979 351 W in. The problem I am having is that when you start the truck
> up and put it into gear, It will move a few feet or so, and then stall.
> The problem is even worse when the truck has warmed up. The truck acts
> like it is not getting gas. It runs really rough too. If anybody has
> any Ideas on what this could be, please e-mail me directly. Thanks.

I agree with WSabers, get yourself a new, clean fuel filter, and
more than likely you probably need a new fuel pump. Been there, done
that - just last night....!

The timing for your post is great! I was/am having the exact same
symptoms with my truck, but I thought I had then licked yesterday
afternoon (*before* I thought it was the fuel pump!) Anyways, we
loaded up the baby seat, my wife, our baby and me to go get some gas
then some ice cream, since I was feeling pretty good about having
got the truck running again (little did I know!). The motor was
purring like a kitten so I pull out of the driveway, get 1 block away
and it dies like it's outta gas. The guage was pretty low, so I
thought that *maybe* we ran outta gas. I walk home, get the gas can
and put a gallon of go-juice in the tank, and now that the engine is
a little warm, she won't run more than a couple of feet at a time. I
then walk home again... ignoring jeers and laughter from my wife and
son, and I get my wife's truck with the rope. My wife pulled my son
and me home (at least it was a Ford pulling a Ford!!!) So much for
good ole dad taking the family out in the old truck for some gas and
then some ice cream! Well, upon closer inspection, it turned out
that the carb bowl was dry and there was hardly any gas in the
line between the pump to the inline filter to the carb. After
spending a 1/2 hour trying to find the little stubby Holley screw
plug that I dropped into and under the intake manifold.....
I was off to the autoparts store to pick up my $15 fuel pump...

The new fuel pump is waiting for me at home on the kitchen table
awaiting this afternoon's installation........

I can't wait to get it installed.

Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:26:02 EST
From: "Erick Kulig"
Subject: '61 Spicer Oil Question

Hey folks!

I was able to get a rear end pinion seal to replace my leaking one.
I tried to get the lube, so I could change that out at the same time.
The auto parts store listed 90W with a Ford limited slip diff (LSD)
oil additive for my truck, but they only carried the 80/90W oil.

Is 80/90W okay for me to use? It would seem so to me since I live
in Indiana and winters can get a bit chilly yet our summers are hot
and I would guess that's what a multiblend oil is for, but I thought
I'd ask what you folks use and recommend. And what do you use for
the LSD additive? How much do I need? Unfortunately, I haven't found
the info in my manual.

Also, I haven't been able to find the rear end cover gasket
locally. Is it made of cork or paper or??? I'd like to have the
material on hand to make it when I take it apart this
weekend, instead of waiting for mail order. Is there anything I can
check (preventative maintenance-wise) while I'm in there? Lastly,
I'd like to paint the diff cover while I've got it off. It's a neat
looking cover so I'm looking for some suggestions that would set it
off.

Thanks in advance,
Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:17:44 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:15:37 -0800

> Your not suppose to break them off? OOP's :]

Actually, if you are replacing the vac with a new one you can salvage
the housing (dist) by hack sawing the ears off the vac, breaking
the al off around the screws and it gives you more room to soak the
threads and work the screws without breaking them off. I think the
thread is in the vac so if you get the al out of the way, saw the
heads off, you can punch them out of the dist housing but make sure
that's the case before you cut!! It's been a long time since I had
to take a look :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:24:09 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351 W problems

> From: "Karen and Melissa Lublin"
> Subject: 351 W problems
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 18:23:49 -0500

> so, and then stall. The problem is even worse when the truck has
> warmed up. The truck acts like it is not getting gas. It runs
> really rough too. If anybody has any Ideas on what this could be,
> please e-mail me directly. Thanks.

When you guys ask a question like this we need more info on the sytem
in question eg. fuel system, ignition etc.. Is it carbed? Did he
switch the EFI over? Somewhere around 86 they went to EFI but I'm a
carb man so haven't kept up, sorry.

If it's carbed this could be any of several things including bad carb
seals, base gasket, leaky needle and seat bad float setting or
ignition problem including bad plugs. If it's EFI I don't have a
clue :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 08:53:37 -0600
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: carb to FI conversion

Shouldn't really be any problem. The knock sensor in the manifold. Ford
even sells a wiring harness just for this type swap. Course you could just
use the old harness. Computer might be off as there are apparently about 8
choices, but you could get by with the original. Check to see if it had an
electronic controlled transmission. It might lack a signal and give an
error, but that apparently won't affect operation.

- ----------
> From: Graphics & Research Fabrication
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Cc: bigbroncos off -road. com
> Subject: carb to FI conversion
> Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 12:55 PM
>
> Has anybody tried swapping fuel injection from a later model car or truck
> to an older 302 (1980 Bronco)? Wondering what you might run into as far
> as intake matching, sensor locating, and computer wiring. I know places
> like Summit offer TB and TPI conversion packages, but $$! I had a guy
> offer me a late 80s Mercury Marquis that had been used for a taxi and had

> an ignition fire that burnt the dash, so they scrapped it. It had direct
> injection though and the price was right (seems like it was around $600)
> for the whole thing.
>
> Just Wondering,
> Pat
> pharrell bae.uga.edu
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:36:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:33:51 -0800
> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

> Really? I was gonna use splitfires, but I heard they'd make so
> much HP that I'd blow my FE390 crank out the bottom of the block!
> Do You run 4-bolt mains with Your splitfires? I could use the
> extra mileage, but don't wanna have to stop and pickup my crank
> after every stoplight. (-:

Funny, I was thinking about those Techinika's made in Mexico by
CENSORED laid off from fortune 500 programming sweat shops and sold
my Mercedes driving fat cats. Then there's the Torque Masters which
actually may have some merit but are still expensive and the
wonderful splt fires which were actually designed to fire two
cylinders at once but they couldn't convince the manufacturers to
siamese two cylinders under one combustion chamber...........:-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:39:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance/splitfires
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 23:28:37 -0800

> I heard the FE390 blow real big, the 360's blow too, just not as
> big!

Huuuuuhhhh???

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:49:57 -0600
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: Loophole, maybe...

Hi all,

Reading all the posts the last few weeks regarding emissions compliance, it
occured to me to share some information I found useful. I've got a 1978
F150 w/460/C6 and 129,000 not-so-well maintained miles. It runs really
rich and I haven't been successful in curing that yet (lack of time,
etc...). Needless to say, it failed the e-test miserably. Here's the good
part :-) In Indiana (maybe other states too) if you plate your truck at a
higher weight rating, it's exempt from testing. I went from a 7,000 lb
plate to a 11,000 lb plate and became exempt. It does cost more, about
$80.00 a year for me. Also not sure about the legality of running a 11,000
lb plate on a 1/2 ton pick up. I've seen lots of trucks, vans (even
compact trucks and vans) running this plate, and have not heard of anyone
being busted.

Totally different subject-
I was the guy with the strange noise diagnosis request a few weeks back.
Well, I've isolated it to either a crack in the exhaust manifold or it blew
out a piece of gasket (that's the general location, hard to see in there).
I'm not real anxious to remove the manifold and risk breaking off any
bolts. How difficult is it to do, and what do I have to do when/if I do
break a bolt? Is there a temporary repair I could do to get me by for awhile?

Kevin
'78 F150 Ranger Lariat

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 07:59:30 -0800
From: "art l"
Subject: obsolete ford

I just got my parts cat. from Obsolete Ford for 1948-79 pickups. I
know its hard to find parts for the 73-79 F-series, and it looks like they
may be a good source. They seem to be a bit pricey (IMHO). The cat. was 3
bucks, and has illistratioins of the parts. I just thought it was worth the
3 bucks and wanted to let everyone know.
Art
78 F-250 XLT 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:08:32 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '61 Spicer Oil Question

> From: "Erick Kulig"
> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 06:26:02 EST
> Subject: '61 Spicer Oil Question

> Is 80/90W okay for me to use? It would seem so to me since I live

Yes

> I'd ask what you folks use and recommend. And what do you use for
> the LSD additive? How much do I need? Unfortunately, I haven't
> found the info in my manual.

LSD additive basically makes the LSD ineffective without using
the brake method to force it to lock up. It makes the clutches
slip more easily so it doesn't chatter on turns. I used it once but
never again :-(

> Also, I haven't been able to find the rear end cover gasket
> locally. Is it made of cork or paper or??? I'd like to have the

Generally paper under the pinion housing and third member and they
should be ready made in any auto parts store if it's the 9". The
older ones may not be in stock anymore, probably depends on the
store. If you use paper apply brown aircraft sealer to both sides
when you put it together, make sure both surfaces are clean.

If it's a sheet metal cover only like the Dana 44's then cork might
be a better seal. The other guys will tell you to goop RTV on it and
lett 'er fly but I prefer gaskets myself :-) BTW, aircraft sealer
works with cork too.

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:40:30 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Loophole, maybe...

> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:49:57 -0600
> From: Kevin Lindstedt
> Subject: Loophole, maybe...

> manifold and risk breaking off any bolts. How difficult is it to
> do, and what do I have to do when/if I do break a bolt? Is there a
> temporary repair I could do to get me by for awhile?

The head will have to come off unless you are a contortionist and the
bolt drilled out or unless some of the shank is left in which case,
once the manifold is out of the way you may be able to get it out
with vise grips (very tightly adjusted) Unfortunately the manifold
will not seal with out all the bolts in place and properly torqued
:-(

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:46:26 -0500 (EST)
From: STCLASSICS aol.com
Subject: Re What did I just buy #320

Those extra springs were a factory option, they came that way with the
extre heavy duty suspension and real high G.V.W. only. The F372 should stand
for F-350 utility (no bed-customer add-on) 2-wheel drive. Someone correct me
if I'm wrong here. The FE motors will go 250,000 miles with very low
maintenance. They do however, put out plenty of heat and that intake is a
bear to change, but an aluminum Edelbrock performer 390 will shave 52 LBs.
off of the front of the truck. It will run cooler and you can get rid of that
factory cast spacer between the carb. and the manifold that usually worps and
leaks vacuum after a while. That's probably why it's running rough. With the
factory manifold, you need it to cool down the fuel in the carb and for
clearance for the linkage. As far as getting a P.I. manifold from an old LTD
or Galaxie(they didnt call them crown vics back then) I sincerely doubt you
would find one in a junkyard (1970 was the last year for the 428 P.I., they
went to the 385 series 429 engine after that) and if you do find one, SELL
IT, they run around $700 for a good used one now. You could buy 3 Edelbrocks
for that much. Otherwise, It sounds like a good deal to me on your truck.
Kenny / SCC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:01:39 -0800
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: Re: heater

Gary and Bear,
Did the trucks your were working on have the factory air conditioning?
The manual I was using was very specific about getting to it from the
passenger compartment. My dad's truck did not have air and I believe
your method would work for that setup but if the factory air is
installed then the project gets a lot more complicated. They stacked a
bunch of stuff in the way. Using the factory procedure I was able to
completely disassemble the unit from inside the cab, replace the blower
motor (that was my problem) and put it back together without dumping the
freon charge. The way the airbox is set up to access it from the engine
compartment, 'ya can't git thar frum heyar'.


Tom H
San Francisco, California
76 F-150 SuperCab 390FE
96 Windstar 200 hp 3.8L (Wife's Hot Rod)

======== Start included message ==============
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 14:33:05 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: heater

> From: "art l"
> Subject: Re: heater
> Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:01:15 -0800

> It is a 78, I have the ford service manual, and I have been
> looking at the
> process of removing the core, looks like a whole day project. Now I

I'm old and rusty but I think it all comes off from under the hood?
Seems like a few bolts, two heater hoses and a wire last time I did
it? Or was that the 75 van, or the 73 van, or the 68 PU,
or..............Dang! I hate being old!

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- - -- Gary --


___________________________________________________________
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:34:08 -0600
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: Heater Core Removal and Installation (was Heater)

It is about a 2 hour project. There is three nuts to remove from under
the
hood, one above the heater fan, one under the fan and the last one is
6-8
inches from the center of the fire wall at the same level as the intake.
Also under the hood the heater hoses at the fire wall (remember which is
top
and which is bottom) disconnect the two wires that go to the fan, one is
plugged in and the other is screwed to the firewall. Then go inside the
cab
and disconnect the two cables that go from the heater controls to the
heater
box and unplug the wires that plug into the front. Then start wiggling
it
out. Once you get it out you can look on the firewall side of the box
and
remove the piece of tin that is around the heater hose connections and
the
heater core can then be pulled out. When putting it back together make
use
of some silicone to replace the sealant on the heater panel and on the
nuts
that you removed from under the hood (don't silicone the ground wire for
the
fan).
Any questions feel free to ask. I have done this once or twice. :)

============== End included message ========================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:16:33 -0600
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold (was: Loophole, maybe...)

At 11:40 AM 10/30/97 +0000, you wrote:
>> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:49:57 -0600
>> From: Kevin Lindstedt
>> Subject: Loophole, maybe...
>
>> manifold and risk breaking off any bolts. How difficult is it to
>> do, and what do I have to do when/if I do break a bolt? Is there a
>> temporary repair I could do to get me by for awhile?
>
>The head will have to come off unless you are a contortionist and the
>bolt drilled out or unless some of the shank is left in which case,
>once the manifold is out of the way you may be able to get it out
>with vise grips (very tightly adjusted) Unfortunately the manifold
>will not seal with out all the bolts in place and properly torqued
>:-(
>
I was afraid that was the deal. If I may have to screw around with
removing a head, I might as well wait until I have the time and money to
rebuild the engine. This truck is my daily driver and can't be out of
commission for more than a weekend. I've seriously thought about swapping
the 460 out for a 302 or a 300 for economy reasons. I have kinda gotten
used to the "punch" of the 460 though... :-(

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:16:23 -0500 (EST)
From: STCLASSICS aol.com
Subject: Re: Payloads #320

Payloads are how much weight the truck can carry (including passengers and
driver) respectively. If you have a half-ton,( F-150) you should be able put
1000 LBs. on the truck safely minus your weight and any passengers. 1500
LBs. for a three-quarter ton(F-250) and 2000 LBs. for a one-ton(F-350).
Actually I think the (F) in F-series stands for FUN but I don't think Ford
had that better idea.LOL I believe it actually stood for the word FORD but
I'm not sure. Originally they called them F-1,F-2,F-3,etc. then they changed
them to F-100, F-250,and F-350 back in the early fifties. basically because
it sounded better and 100,250 and 350 sounded more powerful than 1,2 and 3.
then they added the F-150 to confuse us even more later on. All I know is
they're right when they say "Built Ford Tough" because i'd never own anything
else. Kenny / SCC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:28:23 -0500
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: '61 Spicer Oil Question

i have run 80/90w in PA in the coldest winters, sometimnes so cold it seems
like the truck don't wasnt to move at all. i started using synthetic gear
oil a while ago and still use it for my axles as long as i know that they
won't be coming apart anytime soon, since the synth oil is pretty
expensive. i would recommend using it though, and synthetic grease is my
favorite synthetic product. both the oil and the grease flow at a lower
temperature and still retain the higher temperature properties needed.

in a posi, i do not know how well it will work. i have a posi in my dana
44 front axle, but the rear you use all the time. the extra "slipperyness"
my make the posi clutch a little "loose". i had synthetics in my detroit
locker 9" rear and the locker didn't ratchet as loudly or grab quit as
violently as before.

sleddog

btw- last time i remove front hubs on my 77, the grease inside (mobil or
amsoil synthetic) looked like new and the seals and parts were also like
new. once before that i had a caliper freeze up. by the time i stopped
the truck in a safe location and got out the rotor was cherry red. well,
more like orange. subsequent rebuild showed no damage that i expected to
the seals or bearings. i attribute this to the synthetic grease.

- ----------
From: Erick Kulig[SMTP:erickson vitro.bloomington.in.us]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 1997 6:26 AM
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: '61 Spicer Oil Question

Hey folks!

I was able to get a rear end pinion seal to replace my leaking one.
I tried to get the lube, so I could change that out at the same time.
The auto parts store listed 90W with a Ford limited slip diff (LSD)
oil additive for my truck, but they only carried the 80/90W oil.

Is 80/90W okay for me to use? It would seem so to me since I live
in Indiana and winters can get a bit chilly yet our summers are hot
and I would guess that's what a multiblend oil is for, but I thought
I'd ask what you folks use and recommend. And what do you use for
the LSD additive? How much do I need? Unfortunately, I haven't found
the info in my manual.

Also, I haven't been able to find the rear end cover gasket
locally. Is it made of cork or paper or??? I'd like to have the
material on hand to make it when I take it apart this
weekend, instead of waiting for mail order. Is there anything I can
check (preventative maintenance-wise) while I'm in there? Lastly,
I'd like to paint the diff cover while I've got it off. It's a neat
looking cover so I'm looking for some suggestions that would set it
off.

Thanks in advance,
Eric
=============================
"Happy Days"
1961 F100 Unibody Pick'em up Truck
w/'59 292 Y-block
=============================






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:33:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: heater

> From: Tom Hogan
> Subject: Re: heater
> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:01:39 -0800

> Gary and Bear,
> Did the trucks your were working on have the factory air
> conditioning? The manual I was using was very specific about getting
> to it from the passenger compartment. My dad's truck did not have

Sorry, I don't like the complications of air so my trucks don't have
it. My new cars go to the shop for that kind of stuff cuz I'm old
and tired and set in my ways and don't have the ambition to learn any
new tricks :-) Last time I took anything out from under the dash it
stayed out cuz I broke everything in the process :-(

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:37:25 -0800
From: "art l"
Subject: obsolete ford

A few people E-mailed for info on obsolete ford. There web site is
www.ford-obsolete-parts.com .I am not affiliated with them, just a good
source. I guess I should have put this in the first post, sorry.
Art

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 10:36:39 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Distributor Vacuum Advance

>From: "MICHAEL THOMAS"
>Subject: Distributor Vacuum Advance
>
>I have a '77 F150 w/ a 400. The distributor has the dual vacuum
>advance. I don't have any of the Spark Delay Valves or the any of
>the Ported Vacuum Switches. I know the vacuum sources from the
>intake and carb. Now, correct me if I am wrong, the distributor
>receives vacuum from the carb until the coolant temp. reaches about
>235 deg. F. Then, the PVS's switch vaccum from the carb side to
>intake side and the distributor at the intake port receives vacuum,
>therefore retarding the timing a bit to reduce detonation.

Yo Michael:
The port extending out from the end of the advance diaphragm canister
(always horizontal and perpendicular to the dist shaft) is the advance
port. The port extending up (usually, but sometimes to the side) is the
retard port. Vacuum applied to the advance port will advance timing; vac
applied to the retard port will retard timing.

Dana (danadeb pacbell.net) correctly explained the purpose of the multiple
vacuum sources for advance, to control engine temperature at idle.

You must have a 3-port PVS somewhere in the engine coolant (probably in the
upper coolant outlet going to the radiator) to make the switch between carb
spark port vacuum and intake manifold vacuum to the dist, since the change
is based on engine coolant temp. Both carb spark port and intake manifold
go to the vacuum advance port on the dist can (the port on the end of the
can) through the PVS. The PVS switches between top-middle ports open and
bottom-middle ports open to switch the vacuum source to the dist. The
middle port should go to the dist, the others to the two vacuum sources
(carb and manifold)

Until you can find an advance-only unit, just cap off the retard port, and
it will do essentially nothing. To get the proper calibration for vac
advance, though, (w/ no vac retard) you need a single port (advance-only)
unit, which Dana mentioned. BTW, the distributor from which Dana retrieved
his vac advance unit was originally designed for a full-size car (i.e., LTD
or Crown Vic), as evidenced by the D7AE dist tag, but you can also find
advance-only units on a lot of truck engines.

Distributors will physically interchange between all the 335 series engines
(351C/351M/400) and all the 385 series engines (429/460). Once you find the
advance-only unit, you can adjust the sensitivity of the diaphragm to
vacuum (how quickly the advance comes on, and to some extent, how much
total vac advance is produced) by using an Allen wrench inserted into the
advance port on the can. The screw in the can adjusts pressure on a spring
that pushes on the diaphragm. Lightening the spring pressure will make the
diaphragm more sensitive to vacuum, resulting in more advance sooner.
Increasing spring pressure has the opposite effect. You can use this to
"tune" the vac advance for your engine.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:48:37 -0600
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: Re: Confused About the Yblock!?

I have the answer to your problem I have a completly rebuilt 292
and 3 speed transmission complete with starter,generator etc pulled
complete unit out of my 64 all you have to do is drop it in hook up
mounts,wires,gas line,drive shaft start and drive has 3000 miles on it a
sacrifice at $1000 in fort smith arkansas interested?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:36:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold (was: Loophole, maybe...)

> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 11:16:33 -0600
> From: Kevin Lindstedt
> Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold (was: Loophole, maybe...)

> I was afraid that was the deal. If I may have to screw around with
> removing a head, I might as well wait until I have the time and
> money to rebuild the engine. This truck is my daily driver and

When you do take something off put anti-seize on the threads when you
put it back together and it will come apart for you 10 years down the
road :-)

Broncos really are supposed
to have brakes aren't they?

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 12:35:46 -0800
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Getting back on track!

Hi Gang!
I want to share what had happen and maybe save someone else needless
hassles. This whole thing with Teddi really baffled me until this morning.
That's when I found out how stupid this fight really was.
On the way home from showing her the truck the other night, we were
talking about what we can do with it and she said "Boy your right about it
needing tires, their bald. You can't drive it like that. Can we afford new
tires for it? My reply was "No I'll just get some at Pick a Part" more
discussion and the tires came up again which I said something about junkyard
tires. The conversation slowly was getting heated and I didn't know what was
going on, just getting madder that we were fighting over nothing, and it
growing to the point that we weren't getting the truck. That really burned
me. I hate loosing things in stupid fights. After a day of this it settled
from a roaring fire to burning embers and getting the truck because that
wasn't what the fight was about. I wasn't putting much faith in getting the
truck because I didn't know how this happened in the first place, after 16
years of marriage and thinking I've seen it all, I wasn't prepared for this.
It came from a blind side I didn't know I had!
This morning talking with Teddi feeling a chill in the air, she asked
once more, what we were going to do about the tires. I told her that I would
get some from the junkyard. That's when I seen the blank look of her not
understanding. Light goes on!!! She's never been to a junkyard in her life.
The idea of used tires was so foreign to her, she thought I was joking every
time she asked and I wasn't giving her an answer to something she was
serious about. I said "Babe, you do know you can get tires at a junkyard
don't you?) She goes "Your not joking?" I can see the whole thing now. I'm
laughing so hard I thought I was going to blow chunks. Finding out I wasn't
making fun of her this whole time, she's now a happy camper.
A phone call to Gary (the guy selling the truck) was the next step. When
I said who it was he got real tense. I told him everything that happened (in
the same way my plans were wiped out for some unknown reason, so were his).
You could feel the tension melt as the explanation went on, to the point I
couldn't talk because I was laughing so hard and couldn't he hear me over
his own laughing. We set it up for tomorrow to pick up the truck.
Moral to this. Fighting is always stupid!....

---

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