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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 23:43:14 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #297
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, October 18 1997 Volume 01 : Number 297



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

AutoMeter Guages ["Bear" ]
78 F-150 ["Bear" ]
Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Bushings [JonP27604 aol.com]
Re: parking lights 67 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 69 460 good choice ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I ["rons" ]
Re: Bushings ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears [SARHOG aol.com]
RE: Plugs and Carbs ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Ford Q-jet?? ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Ammeter ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: Ford Q-jet?? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Rons' Bronco ["rons" ]
Re: Rons' Bronco ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
rear end ratio [Jesus Cardoso ]
RE: rear end ratio [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication]
Re: Rons' Bronco ["deconblu" ]
Spring location on rear drum brakes [Jason Eaton ]
Re: Spring location on rear drum brakes ["deconblu" ]
Re: rear end ratio [Don Grossman ]
Re: Bushings [Don Grossman ]
Re: parking lights 67 ["Robert Mitchem" ]
Re: parking lights 67 [Don Grossman ]
Re: Increasing payload ["Brett McCoy" ]
Re: Plugs and Carbs ["Brett McCoy" ]
Re: Increasing payload ["deconblu" ]
Re: Spring location on rear drum brakes [Jason Eaton ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 05:04:19 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: AutoMeter Guages

So Do they make one specifically for Ford trucks that comes with everything
or have I got to pick and choose to make up my own contraption?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Hogan
To: 'Ford Trucks'
Date: Friday, October 17, 1997 10:55 AM
Subject: Re Speedometer


>They should be available from any speed shop or check out 4x4now.com
>suppliers page at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.4x4now.com/4wsupply.htm
>look under the 'electrical' section.
>
>
>
>Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:50:36 -0500
>From: "Bear"
>Subject: Re: Re Speedometer
>
>So where do I get "Autometer Gauges" that seems like a great idea! Am
>I
>correct in assuming that this is an after market unit?
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Tom Hogan
>To: 'Ford Trucks'
>Date: Thursday, October 16, 1997 1:11 PM
>Subject: Re Speedometer
>
>
>
>>If your going to change the cluster anyway how about a full set (ALL of
>>them) of Autometer guages with a tach set in an aluminum insert in the
>>original location ............ ;o)
>>
>
>------------------------------
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 05:31:38 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: 78 F-150

Found another motor for my truck. Currently it has a 76 351W from a Torino.
That was a pain to put in. This is a 351M and a C-6 from a mid 70's car
also. The motor has 80,000 miles on it and just needs a carb. Will my carb
fit it? Would I be better off to just rebuild the carb it has? What does
it take to rebuild a carb? The truck had a 302 4 speed in it, do I need
different motor mounts for the 351M.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 07:49:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

> From: "Dave Resch"
> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 15:11:42 -0600
> Subject: Re: Shopping List ??

> About the gear drive for timing: I too have heard that they take a
> bit more power to turn than a chain setup, however, I have also
> heard that they will last virtually forever, and if you buy a
> quality unit (say Pete Jackson or Moroso) with double idlers, you

I have determined to try the dual idler type in my next 460 build and
speaking from hear say and personal mechanical insight but no real
experience there, apparently, are some problems:

Noise -- The steel ones are noisey from every thing I've heard but
they make a teflon lined versoin which is quieter but introduces a
variable in that the teflon can flake off. I've seen this on older
Fords that used gears with nylon coatings. (course that was around
100k miles or so)

Power robbing -- It's a well estabilished mechanical fact that chain
drives are the most efficient means of transmitting rotating energy
but at high speeds the chain can whip causing harmonics which are bad
for the engine. I would surmise that the difference between a roller
chain drive and Pete Jackson drive would not be felt on the road or
seen in the economy but could probably be measured somehow.

The primary purpose of the gear drive, especially the dual idler type
is absolutely stable timing which won't change as the miles add up.
The stability of the timing may very well (probably easily) make up
for any power robbing the additional drag of the gears may cause but
it's up the the individual as to how much noise he wants to put up
with. Racers don't care too much about noise if it makes power but
this would be hard on a long trip with the family I would think?

I understand the Pete Jackson system fits under the stock timing
cover in most cases with no machining. I'm sincerely hoping this
will be the case with the 460 :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 08:24:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: JonP27604 aol.com
Subject: Bushings

I need to rebush the spring eyes and shackle bracket on a '63 F350 solid axle
that I am grafting to a '65 frame. I also need new shackle bolts but Ford no
longer stocks this stuff. The chimp at NAPA said they do not carry it either.
Any one know who might carry it?

I have looked at the springs on a '64 FWD and they look about the same. Not
sure though.

Jon E. Purut
JonP27604 aol.com

1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100 Parts Truck Hoping To Revive As F350 Super Duty (need bushings)
1977 F150 Parts Truck
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 08:43:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: parking lights 67

> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 15:18:49 -0700
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: parking lights 67

> Is this part of the wiring scheme or part of the switch? If it's
> part of the switch, I may want to change to a later model.

Has to be the switch because if you connect the wires all lights
would come on in any switch position. When one gets power they all
get power :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:05:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 69 460 good choice

> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 15:47:24 -0700
> From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
> Subject: Re: 69 460 good choice

> no welding required, not for Lincoln motors, item no. TD-9720,
> $160.00/kit

This reminds me, there was a special lincolin motor based on the 385
series but different somehow. Don't know the particulars but it's
not a 460, more like a 486 or 466 or something.

Seems like it would have the same motor mount pads though??

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:19:45 -0400
From: "rons"
Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I

Dana,
Very good link. Thanks very much!
Ron---Bronco lover

- ----------
> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> To: Ford Folks
> Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I
> Date: Saturday, October 18, 1997 2:53 AM
>
> In the event I didn't send this before here it is:
>
> Great site on Dura spark II system:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html
>
>
>
> Also Chilton manuals have alot of good info on Dura spark II including
> testing.
>
> Dana
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:21:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Bushings

> From: JonP27604 aol.com
> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 08:24:05 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Bushings

> I need to rebush the spring eyes and shackle bracket on a '63 F350
> solid axle that I am grafting to a '65 frame. I also need new
> shackle bolts but Ford no longer stocks this stuff. The chimp at
> NAPA said they do not carry it either. Any one know who might carry
> it?

Arc Spring or a comparable spring rebuilder. They carry just about
any thing related to springs.

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:54:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: SARHOG aol.com
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears





I was always under the assumption that belt drives are the most efficient....

John Z
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 10:10:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Plugs and Carbs

> From: Sleddog
> Subject: RE: Plugs and Carbs
> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 18:05:38 -0400

> a freind with a 340 uses the same carb as mine and it also idles and
> responds well and turns 8000 rpm with a "medium sized" roller cam
> and big header, single plane intake. but according to the eqation
> assuming less than 100 % efficiancy it is too much carb. theory is
> nice but it is only thoery.

The theory here is also based on the assumption you want max rpm for
a given displacement right? This is why I want the Rochester or
Carter. You get the best of both worlds and with the Offy dual/dual
plane manifold maybe even more?

> morning on sizing your carb. Holley says oversizing the carb is the
> biggest mistake they see. What I read said also to not assume more
> than 85 % efficiency though. So just take 85 % of your result. I've

I've seen a 318 with tiny single barrel go from zero to sixty in a
blink and keep going way beyond that so the size of the carb
certainly didn't hinder it much. It also got pretty good economy.

It's my feeling that the intake and heads have a lot more to do with
it than the size of the carb. Obviously you have to have room for
the air to fill the cylinders but if the ports, valves or intake
runners won't let it in the carb won't make any difference. OTOH, I
had a Rochester on my 62 cutlass with 215 al v8 and it ran like a
scalded dog. I want my 460 to run like a scalded dog too and up and
down hills as well AND get good economy which the Holley's absolutely
won't do as I've been reading and hearing and have seen myself
(Haven't tried any hills though) :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 11:04:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

> From: SARHOG aol.com
> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:54:36 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: Shopping List ??/Timing gears

>
>
> chain
> energy
>
> I was always under the assumption that belt drives are the most
> efficient....

V Belts produce more friction on the sides which is why they went to
poly V's and bending the rubber requires some energy as well which
the chain doesn't have to deal with. They use belts now for timing
because they are quieter and lighter AFAIK and probably cheaper to
manufacture as well which would be the real bottom line if true :-)

My information is 30 years old but I think it's still true today.
Roller chains are lighter than the silent chain and tend to hold up a
little better so are probably the best solution for a practical
application, the gears are more interesting and fun tho so I'll give
it a try on my next build. They also make belt timing conversions
but I just can't see messing with it myself :-)


Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:55:33 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ford Q-jet??

>At one time Ford used Q-Jets but dropped them.
>
>Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
>================================================

Deacon,

I didn't know Ford had ever used the Q-jet. Do you know what years and
engines used it?


later
dale c
'79 351M

Still amazed by what I learn from this list!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 10:07:28 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ammeter

>Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:39:51 -0700
>From: danadeb pacbell.net
>Subject: re: Ammeter.
>
>Now I am confused!
>
>
>I always thought that there was a sending wire from the voltage reg that
>supplied a voltage to the ammeter that was compared to a line voltage on
>the other side of the ammeter.
>
>13.5v to the + side of the ammeter and 13.5v to the - side = no charge
>and no discharge.
>
>13.5 to + side and less then 13.5 to the - side = discharge
>
>more then 13.5 to the + side and 13.5 to the - side = charge
>
>Or something like that.
>
>any thoughts?
>
>------------------------------

Dana,

You've got the voltage drop idea down. The shunt that we've been talking
about is the low resistance that creates the voltage drop for the ammeter
to measure. The two "sending wires" that run to the ammeter are connected
to each end of the shunt. By varying the shunt resistance you can vary the
sensitivity of the ammeter. High values of shunt resistance will make the
meter very sensitive and peg the meter with normal charge/discharge loads.
If the shunt resistance is too low (like Ford's stock shunt) then the meter
will never move. All you have to do to make your meter work is give it a
little more shunt resistance!

Hope this makes sense. Maybe Steve or Tom can clarify, I think that they
are better technical writers than me.

later
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 11:18:25 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Ford Q-jet??

> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> Subject: Ford Q-jet??
> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:55:33 -0500

> >At one time Ford used Q-Jets but dropped them.
> >
> >Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
> >================================================
>
> Deacon,
>
> I didn't know Ford had ever used the Q-jet. Do you know what years
> and engines used it?

68 SCJ or 428 in the T Bird I think. I think it was only used for a
year or two on only a few models. Can't remember where I saw it now?


Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:09:25 -0400
From: "rons"
Subject: Rons' Bronco

Hey Quess What,
I first want to Thank all the folks that responded to my post and for
their promptness.
I found the stinking problem. The left rear axle had been replaced by a
smaller shaft size altogether and the whole thing from the wheel end to the
ring gear end was smaller. How in the world did it not strip out? The A20
bearing was the right one for it.
Thanks,
Ron ---Bronco Lover

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:24:14 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Rons' Bronco

> From: "rons"
> Subject: Rons' Bronco
> Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:09:25 -0400

> I found the stinking problem. The left rear axle had been replaced
> by a
> smaller shaft size altogether and the whole thing from the wheel end
> to the ring gear end was smaller. How in the world did it not strip
> out? The A20 bearing was the right one for it.

So did you replace the axle as well? Did you know there is also a
list dedicated to the big broncos (78-96)? It now has it's own
domain and is hosted by Off-Road.Com at present. I'm on both lists
so they can both benefit from my ignorance :-)

Michigan roads, Broncos and
Kidney belts, What a team!

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 16:38:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: rear end ratio

Howdy!

I finally had a chance to lift up my to see the rear end ratio.
The problem that I am having is that I can remember how the ratios go...my
truck basically has the ratio of seven turns of the driveshaft to four of
the tires...I can't remember if it is 7:4 or 4:7 or more like 1.5:1 or
1:1.5. So which one is it?!?!
For the guy that put the info on this parking lights (I can't
remember who it is)....my truck has following configuration; on the first
notch my parking lights only turn on, but on the second notch my
headlights come on and the parking lights turn off. I think this was what
you had on your truck.
By the way my truck is a '63 F100 (292, T87E 3-speed, LWB
Flareside).

Thanks for everyones help.

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

:::::::::::::::"Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.":::::::::::::::

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 97 18:21:36 EDT
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
Subject: RE: rear end ratio

7 turns of the driveshaft to 4 turns of the wheel = 1.75:1 ratio
For every revolution of the wheel the driveshaft turns 1 and 3/4 turns.

That's mighty high gearing. try it again and just turn the tire one
revolution, making sure that the other tire is not turning too.

Pat
pharrell bae.uga.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 15:25:14 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Rons' Bronco

From: Gary, 78 BBB
>So did you replace the axle as well? Did you know there is also a
>list dedicated to the big broncos (78-96)? It now has it's own
>domain and is hosted by Off-Road.Com at present. I'm on both lists
>so they can both benefit from my ignorance :-)

Gary that's arrogance, not ignorance!
Not that I think your arrogant, just thought you picked the wrong word.
;-) In the time you've been on the list you've proven your not ignorant! I
look forward to reading your advice and insight.
I have been looking for the place that I read Ford used Q-Jets for a
short time, so far it's been fruitless search. I think you may be right
about it being early T-Birds though it may be an early Galaxie, I'm not sure
but I'll keep searching.
The spread bore is a good design and practical for street use. I wonder
why Ford caned it!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 14:41:49 -0700
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Spring location on rear drum brakes

Driving my 64 F100 today, heard a strange grinding noise from the
rearend on drivers side. It seem
to occur when I hit the breaks. I got home pulled the drum and found the
spring which pulls the
pads together again was broken in half.

I pulled to other side off to see how that spring is supposed to go, it
was broken as well. Duohh!

Now I need to replace these springs but I don't know where the attach
to. The are easy to spot
they are the longest springs in the assembly to hold the shoes together.

Can anybody tell me where they might go? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 18:45:11 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Spring location on rear drum brakes

>Can anybody tell me where they might go? Thanks.

Looking at the manual I don't know which spring your talking about. Go here
and look at this picture and tell me what spring your talking about and I
will describe what it shows. I wish I could give you this picture but I'm
sure you understand. Even though your truck is down and this is an
emergence! it will be gone soon.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/brake/brake.gif


Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Eaton
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Saturday, October 18, 1997 5:42 PM
Subject: Spring location on rear drum brakes



>Driving my 64 F100 today, heard a strange grinding noise from the
>rearend on drivers side. It seem
>to occur when I hit the breaks. I got home pulled the drum and found the
>spring which pulls the
>pads together again was broken in half.
>
>I pulled to other side off to see how that spring is supposed to go, it
>was broken as well. Duohh!
>
>Now I need to replace these springs but I don't know where the attach
>to. The are easy to spot
>they are the longest springs in the assembly to hold the shoes together.
>
>Can anybody tell me where they might go? Thanks.
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 18:54:49 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: rear end ratio

Graphics & Research Fabrication wrote:
>
> 7 turns of the driveshaft to 4 turns of the wheel = 1.75:1 ratio
> For every revolution of the wheel the driveshaft turns 1 and 3/4 turns.
>
> That's mighty high gearing. try it again and just turn the tire one
> revolution, making sure that the other tire is not turning too.
>
> Pat
> pharrell bae.uga.edu

Let me see here, when the pinion turns the ring gear both wheels will
want to turn with equal traction. Lift one wheel off the ground (open
diff here no lockers of LS) turn the pinion turns the ring gear the same
number of times. Now what was once turning two wheels at the same time
is only turning one. Remember those little spider gears that are in the
diff. they are now hard at work putting the rotational force of two
wheels into the one that is free to turn. So what I am tring to say
here is that one wheel will be turning twice as fast as both wheels
turning together. What you need to do is double your ratio 1.75 x 2 =
3.50.

If I can be of any more confusion please let me know.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 19:17:18 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: Bushings

JonP27604 aol.com wrote:
>
> I need to rebush the spring eyes and shackle bracket on a '63 F350 solid axle
> that I am grafting to a '65 frame. I also need new shackle bolts but Ford no
> longer stocks this stuff. The chimp at NAPA said they do not carry it either.
> Any one know who might carry it?
>
> I have looked at the springs on a '64 FWD and they look about the same. Not
> sure though.
>
> Jon E. Purut
> JonP27604 aol.com

Are the bushings rubber or the bronze inserts? I have seen both used.
One 63 had the rubber bushing which NAPA should be able to match up, and
my current 63 4x uses the bronze inserts in the springs. I am planning
on changing this real soon. Anyway, there are kits for the F-100's.
You might be able to take some measurements and just match up what you
need.

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 21:13:22 -0500
From: "Robert Mitchem"
Subject: Re: parking lights 67

On my two 66 Ford Galaxies, the park lights go off when you turn on the
headlights. I think it was common practice for autos of the 60's to be
equipped this way.

- ----------
> From: marko maryniak
> To: fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net
> Subject: parking lights 67
> Date: Friday, October 17, 1997 5:18 PM
>
> Hey!
>
>
> On my 67 m100, the parking lights are on when you pull the headlight
switch
> out one notch, but when you pull it out two notches the headlights come
on
> and the front parking lights go out. The back ones, of course, stay on.
>
> Is this part of the wiring scheme or part of the switch? If it's part of
> the switch, I may want to change to a later model.
>
> marko in vancouver
> 71 f250 4x4
> 67 merc m100
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 19:45:37 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: parking lights 67

Robert Mitchem wrote:
>
> On my two 66 Ford Galaxies, the park lights go off when you turn on the
> headlights. I think it was common practice for autos of the 60's to be
> equipped this way.
>

I think they would look much cooler with the parking lights on too.
That reminds me I was going to get a new set of Halogen headlights
before it started to get dark earlier.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 21:46:20 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Increasing payload

Most factory and aftermarket bumpers are stamped on the step plate with the
tunge and trailer weights. Never, exceed these weights. A fully loaded
trailer can exert a tremendous amount of force during a panic stop. You
may be a careful driver, but many other people aren't. I can't count how
many times I have seen a perfectly nice truck with a majorly bent rear step
bumper around the hitch point. If you need to be able to care up to a ton
and your bumper is not up to the job you should get a receiver hitch for
your truck. You may also want to wire your truck for electric brakes.
This would also increase the max trailer towing weight of your truck. Just
remember, just because you can PULL it doesn't mean you can stop it!

- -B

>Great! I was wondering why so many trucks I've seen with truck bumpers
with
>a place for a ball and had a reciever type trailer hitch. I was hoping it
>was for height. I'll grab a trailer trader tomorrow. Thanks Don!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 21:52:52 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

I guess I should have been more specific. What I was trying to say it that
as I look through the parts catalogs I see one spread bore intake and
twenty open or dual plane ones. Why? Why don't I see a whole lot of
aluminum spread bore intakes in the summit catalog? As for the carb itself
is there a difference between the carb that you put on top of the spread
bore as opposed to the square or dual plane intakes?


> Sorry but you lost me. Are you talking about Ford not using spread
>bores? The Q-Jet is a spread bore from top to bottom. The secondaries are
>physically larger than the primaries. All the manufactures of intake
>manifolds and carburetors I've seen make spread bores. Their common on
>Chevy. At one time Ford used Q-Jets but dropped them.

> >If the spread bore manifold is so great why don't more people use them?
>>Why doesn't the industry have a lot of them available?
>>Now for the really stupid question is
>>there really a spread bore carb? Or are they just square bore carbs with
>>adapter plates slapped on the bottom?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 22:12:24 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Increasing payload

>Most factory and aftermarket bumpers are stamped on the step plate with
the
>tunge and trailer weights. Never, exceed these weights. A fully loaded
>trailer can exert a tremendous amount of force during a panic stop. You
>may be a careful driver, but many other people aren't. I can't count how
>many times I have seen a perfectly nice truck with a majorly bent rear step
>bumper around the hitch point. If you need to be able to care up to a ton
>and your bumper is not up to the job you should get a receiver hitch for
>your truck. You may also want to wire your truck for electric brakes.
>This would also increase the max trailer towing weight of your truck. Just
>remember, just because you can PULL it doesn't mean you can stop it!

Good points! I've looked at my bumper and can't find a stamped number.
Better to be safe than sorry. Think I'll go to the trailer supply and see
what they have and my local welder to reinforce the bumper. Also check local
rental yards. Better to try it with a rented trailer first.
I'm also going to look into springs and shocks as per suggestion. Also
wheels and tires. Would appreciate suggestions in this category. If things
keep going with this I will get a truck for it. But for now I think I'll
build up my current truck for tasks at hand. Hopefully the truck will get
some decent upgrades. The tailgate will never be the same, a forklift driver
seen to that!
Thanks all! IIA (It Is Apprecated)!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 19:57:26 -0700
From: Jason Eaton
Subject: Re: Spring location on rear drum brakes

Thanks Deacon.

The picture doesn't actually show the springs I have. The picture is close
but not right. I have two springs which span from one shoe to another.
Each spring is parallel to the ground and both are very long. One is
towards the top of the shoes and the other is towards the bottom.

I do have the cable that is in the picture, however mine is broken.

deconblu wrote:

> >Can anybody tell me where they might go? Thanks.
>
> Looking at the manual I don't know which spring your talking about. Go here
> and look at this picture and tell me what spring your talking about and I
> will describe what it shows. I wish I could give you this picture but I'm
> sure you understand. Even though your truck is down and this is an
> emergence! it will be gone soon.
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/brake/brake.gif
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
> ================================================
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Eaton
> To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
> Date: Saturday, October 18, 1997 5:42 PM
> Subject: Spring location on rear drum brakes
>
> >Driving my 64 F100 today, heard a strange grinding noise from the
> >rearend on drivers side. It seem
> >to occur when I hit the breaks. I got home pulled the drum and found the....

---

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