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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 03:50:23 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #296
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Saturday, October 18 1997 Volume 01 : Number 296



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Ammeter ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: Plugs and Carbs ["Brett McCoy" ]
64 f100 power steering ? [ga]
Re: Plugs and Carbs ["deconblu" ]
Re: Carbs and plugs [GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)]
Re: 300-3speed swap [danadeb pacbell.net]
RE: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: 66 Shortbed Styleside F100 [Tred123 aol.com]
re: Ammeter. [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Increasing payload ["deconblu" ]
Re: Increasing payload [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]
Re: 79 F250 4x4 [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 21:39:38 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ammeter

The latest chapter in the never ending saga of the Ford Ammeter.........

Steve your suggestion the other day of using a piece of #10 wire as a shunt
seemed too reasonable not to try. Besides, I've been kicking this around
for a couple of weeks. Waiting for a power resistor from radio shack, etc.
.... it was time to try something!!!!!

What I did was;

1) Cut the shunt wire located in the wire harness between the starter
solenoid and the alternator. Exactly as outlined in Tom Hogan's excellent
description.

2) Splice in 20 feet of #14 stranded wire, (.003ohms/ft x 20=.06ohms).

3) Turned on the headlights......BAM.....meter pegs left.....way to much
resistance. Gee Steve, I guess the math does work......imagine that!

4) Shortened the #14 to about 3 feet, (.01ohm). Much better meter action,
but still too sensitive for me.

5) Replaced the #14 with 3 feet of #12 wire, (.002ohms/ft x 3=.006ohms).
Pretty good meter action. A little more sensitive than my Dad's old '69
Plymouth. Engine off all accessories, headlights, heater fan, etc. on
produces about 2/3 scale movement. I still think that a low battery hard
charge condition will peg the meter, but I'm going to try it this way for
awhile.

Note: The wire was added to the original shunt wire. I didn't remove any
of the original shunt. I used crimp connectors. If you solder your
connections your results my vary.

Tom,
I don't think there's any way your shunt resistance is 1.2ohms. Your meter
may be telling you it is, but don't believe it! Measure your voltage drops
and currents and calculate your resistance. I'll bet it's very close to
the .025 that you set out to create in the first place.

good luck to all
later
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 21:58:09 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

Gary Said:
>How come I don't hear much about Rochester swaps? Just cuz there are
>only a few spread bore manifolds for Fords out there may have
>something to do with it?? You will never, never, never beat the
>efficiency of a spread bore with a square bore carb. IMHO, it's
>worth the extra cost of the special manifold to get it. GM certainly
>saw TWOTW. They offered it on almost all models they made. Ford saw
>it too but didn't stick with the standard unfortunately. Has anyone
>seen any manifolds for Fords other than the Offy's???

If the spread bore manifold is so great why don't more people use them?
Why doesn't the industry have a lot of them available? How about having
the stock Ford spread bore manifold, what is it called, extruded? Wouldn't
that smooth out the inside of the casting and combined with a good porting
job give even better efficiency? Now for the really stupid question is
there really a spread bore carb? Or are they just square bore carbs with
adapter plates slapped on the bottom? I'm trying to get a handle on this
whole intake air flow efficiency issue. Seems to me that the fewer times
that the air has to pass through a different shape or size opening the less
turbulence is created. Isn't that the whole point? To get the air/fuel
mix into the combustion chamber as quickly as possible to keep it atomized?
Jump in all you physics majors!

- -B

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 22:23:42 -0500
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: 64 f100 power steering ?

Can anybody tell me where I can purchase complete power steering setup
for my 64 F-100 or if any unit off later model will work .I have seen
64s in magazines that have the original straight axle and power steering
also are there any disc brakes that will adapt to this axle?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 20:39:03 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs

>If the spread bore manifold is so great why don't more people use them?
>Why doesn't the industry have a lot of them available?
>Now for the really stupid question is
>there really a spread bore carb? Or are they just square bore carbs with
>adapter plates slapped on the bottom?

Sorry but you lost me. Are you talking about Ford not using spread
bores? The Q-Jet is a spread bore from top to bottom. The secondaries are
physically larger than the primaries. All the manufactures of intake
manifolds and carburetors I've seen make spread bores. Their common on
Chevy. At one time Ford used Q-Jets but dropped them.

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brett McCoy
To: fordtrucks
Date: Friday, October 17, 1997 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: Plugs and Carbs



>Gary Said:
>>How come I don't hear much about Rochester swaps? Just cuz there are
>>only a few spread bore manifolds for Fords out there may have
>>something to do with it?? You will never, never, never beat the
>>efficiency of a spread bore with a square bore carb. IMHO, it's
>>worth the extra cost of the special manifold to get it. GM certainly
>>saw TWOTW. They offered it on almost all models they made. Ford saw
>>it too but didn't stick with the standard unfortunately. Has anyone
>>seen any manifolds for Fords other than the Offy's???
>
>If the spread bore manifold is so great why don't more people use them?
>Why doesn't the industry have a lot of them available? How about having
>the stock Ford spread bore manifold, what is it called, extruded? Wouldn't
>that smooth out the inside of the casting and combined with a good porting
>job give even better efficiency? Now for the really stupid question is
>there really a spread bore carb? Or are they just square bore carbs with
>adapter plates slapped on the bottom? I'm trying to get a handle on this
>whole intake air flow efficiency issue. Seems to me that the fewer times
>that the air has to pass through a different shape or size opening the less
>turbulence is created. Isn't that the whole point? To get the air/fuel
>mix into the combustion chamber as quickly as possible to keep it atomized?
> Jump in all you physics majors!
>
>-B
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 00:31:53, -0500
From: GEGK00A prodigy.com ( DAN LEE)
Subject: Re: Carbs and plugs

Yes, you should consider some efficiency factor. I don't know if 85%
is correct, but carbs only come in incremental sizes.
460/3456 X 6000 X .85 = 678.8
I would chance that my efficiency and maybe my max RPM were better
than the numbers used in the equation rather than worse and select a
750 CFM carb instead of a 625 CFM unit. A manifold, cam, headers
added later could improve both efficiency and Max RPM.

Dan Lee
'53 F100 351C-4V

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 22:59:19 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 300-3speed swap

I have a 460 in my 70 f250 and am using the 1970 stock 390 radiator I
have AC and it has not overheated or come close. If you buy your
radiator from a radiator shop then you might ask for more fins per inch
and 4 rows instead of the stock 3 just to be safe.

The only problem I have encountered is the upper radiator hose. The
stock 390 hose is too big for the 460 engine and not quite the right
shape. ( I think I have an automotive thermostat housing but all of the
truck housings I looked at would not make the fit any better ) the
solution was to use the flex hose that the parts books call out for a 74
460.

The bottom line

1970 f250
1970 standard cooling 3 core 390 radiator( the super cooling option
is huge and I don't think it would be an easy retrofit)
1970 lower radiator hose ( same hose is used for the 70 390 and 74 460 )
1974 upper radiator FLEX hose for the 460


Good luck
Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:12:17 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: RE: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

I always wanted to do that to a chevy, even so far as to swap out the
frame etc. then take it to a chevy show!!!!!!


What a laugh I would get as the chevy losers walked by!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:08:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tred123 aol.com
Subject: Re: 66 Shortbed Styleside F100

Hi All,

I have been enjoying this list for some time. Great source of info!!!!.
This is my first post. I have a rust free truck except for the bed. The
sides are almost perfect, the problem is the floor up near the cab is rusted
thru. Rather than cover up the rust with a wood bed kit I'd like to replace
the floor panel. The problem is, that except for flareside bed panels I have
been unable to locate parts for my styleside. Does anybody know a source for
these beds??? I have also been unable to locate a rust free bed as a
replacement.
Second, I'd like to replace my three speed on the column to a four
speed(or five Speed) on the floor. I dont have a cut out on the floor for
this type of shifter. Is it a good idea to cut up the floor or should i just
go with a C6? Presently, the engine is a 390.
Your input would be appreciated!!!!

Thanks,


Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:39:51 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: re: Ammeter.

Now I am confused!

I always thought that there was a sending wire from the voltage reg that
supplied a voltage to the ammeter that was compared to a line voltage on
the other side of the ammeter.

13.5v to the + side of the ammeter and 13.5v to the - side = no charge
and no discharge.

13.5 to + side and less then 13.5 to the - side = discharge

more then 13.5 to the + side and 13.5 to the - side = charge

Or something like that.

any thoughts?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 23:53:09 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I

In the event I didn't send this before here it is:

Great site on Dura spark II system:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html



Also Chilton manuals have alot of good info on Dura spark II including
testing.

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 00:07:01 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Advice on '77 Dura Spark I









Red wire needs 12v when the key is in the run position and the white
wire needs 12v when the key is in the start mode only ( white wire tells
Dura spark to retard timing during cranking ) I am looking at page 90
of a 65-86 Ford pick-up Chilton's manual as I type and that's the way I
hooked up my own and if you look at the following site it says the same
thing.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wrljet.com/engines/duraspark.html

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 01:23:29 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Increasing payload

>One of the things you could do is change out the rear springs. Pick up
>a set from an F-250 or larger. Now by "ton", do you really mean a "ton"
>or until the pavement buckles under the truck. :)

On Wed I picked up a pallet to deliver and it put the frame down on the rear
end. I told them to take it out. Later I found out the pallet weighed
1800lbs. I could have made $150.00 with it. I would have dropped it off in
El Monte where the would have taken it out of my truck with a forklift.
Would have taken me a little over an hour round trip. Today I took an 800lb
and a 300lb pallet, one to Anaheim the other to North Hollywood. Had to
unload them by hand and it took 7 hours for the same money.

>A trailer would nice. You should look at a class 3 or better when
>shopping for your trailer needs. If you have a good sturdy bumper it
>should already have a ball mount built in. On a stock height truck this
>should not be a problem. If the truck is raised at all you might want
>to look for a drop hitch. All this kind of depends on the tongue height
>of the trailer.

Great! I was wondering why so many trucks I've seen with truck bumpers with
a place for a ball and had a reciever type trailer hitch. I was hoping it
was for height. I'll grab a trailer trader tomorrow. Thanks Don!

Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
================================================
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 04:42:26 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: Increasing payload

deconblu wrote:
>
> >One of the things you could do is change out the rear springs. Pick up
> >a set from an F-250 or larger. Now by "ton", do you really mean a "ton"
> >or until the pavement buckles under the truck. :)
>
> On Wed I picked up a pallet to deliver and it put the frame down on the rear
> end. I told them to take it out. Later I found out the pallet weighed
> 1800lbs. I could have made $150.00 with it. I would have dropped it off in
> El Monte where the would have taken it out of my truck with a forklift.
> Would have taken me a little over an hour round trip. Today I took an 800lb
> and a 300lb pallet, one to Anaheim the other to North Hollywood. Had to
> unload them by hand and it took 7 hours for the same money.
>
> >A trailer would nice. You should look at a class 3 or better when
> >shopping for your trailer needs. If you have a good sturdy bumper it
> >should already have a ball mount built in. On a stock height truck this
> >should not be a problem. If the truck is raised at all you might want
> >to look for a drop hitch. All this kind of depends on the tongue height
> >of the trailer.
>
> Great! I was wondering why so many trucks I've seen with truck bumpers with
> a place for a ball and had a reciever type trailer hitch. I was hoping it
> was for height. I'll grab a trailer trader tomorrow. Thanks Don!
>
> Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
> ================================================
> Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

If I were you I'd take a long look at how your bumber is mounted, I had
a guy bring a truck to me to repair once when he didn't reinforce the
mounting and he bent all the bumper brackets about 45 degrees downward
!! I just got new ones from the boneyard but then installed a class 3
receiver hitch that I bolted then tack welded to his frame...just a word
of caution....

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 04:44:05 -0500
From: Brian & Jacque Milbrandt
Subject: Re: 79 F250 4x4

Bill Beyer wrote:
>
> > Question-- Are you sure you've got the power ram steering?
>
> Answer-- No I'm not sure what kind of steering system it has. I was reading
> about 70s 4x4&Off-Road magazine and they simply mentioned that it was a
> weak point in that series. The brief examination I made of the steering box
> looked fairly normal to me. I'm more familiar with the Saginaw boxes from
> Jeeps, GMs etc. I plan to take a closer look this weekend. How can I tell
> if it has a power ram system?
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+....


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