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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 03:50:27 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #290
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fordtrucks61-79-digest Thursday, October 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 290



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

WANTED: Hood for [Richard Cherico ]
Strange Vibrations-360 [Richard Cherico ]
RE: Cooling system question [Richard Cherico ]
Ammeter [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: Cooling system question [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Strange Vibrations-360 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:05:02 -0500
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: WANTED: Hood for

'68 F100. Mine popped up last night on the I35 access road, reducing it to
a taco-shell-shaped piece of metal. And some roof damage. If you've got
one in decent condition to sell and live within 100 miles of Austin, email
me at bigric tamu.edu and we'll talk turkey.
bigric tamu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:05:57 -0500
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: Strange Vibrations-360

I've got a 360 that I just rebuilt in my '68 F100. The motor is a '68, has
an Erson RV-10 cam, HO oil pump, Edelbrock 1406 600cmf carb, 4bbl intake
off of a '65 Galaxie or something, and is bored 040 over. I've got about
3k on the motor since the rebuild. Anyway, it's got this bad vibration
right at 2000RPM. You start to feel it at 1800RPM, it rattles your teeth
at 2000RPM, but it's gone by 2200RPM. Wierd. I was foolish not to have
the motor balanced while it was at the machine shop, but that's behind me
now. One thing that I did notice when I pulled the harmonic balancer was
that the layer of rubber between the inner metal donut and the outer metal
donut was dryrotted and cracking badly. Could this vibration be created by
a bad balancer? If so then I'm home free. If not, what else should I look
at? It's got fresh mounts any place that power/drivetrain is bolted to the
frame.
While it was at the machine shop, the wrist pins were rebushed and the
crank main and rod journals were turned. Could this vibration possibly be
caused by some sloppy internals?
I know it's in the engine; it does it in any gear, including neutral.
All help is greatly appreciated.


bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:09:26 -0500
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

My '67 Custom Cab had a lever on the defroster/floor diverter box that you
flipped for defrost/floor. It had a knob that you turned to the right to
turn on the fan and that pulled out to actuate some internal door.
Somebody added an extra cable that you pulled to actuate the actual heater
valve in the heater hose. Good luck.


bigric tamu.edu
'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:05:00 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Ammeter

>
>With this shunt value most of the current goes through the meter, like Tom
>said. Sort of defeats the purpose of the shunt. I figure 86% of the
>charge current goes through the dash meter at this shunt value. My
>question to Tom and my concern is that he will inevitably cook his meter if
>he keeps running it with this shunt. When the battery is low the
>alternator will pump out the power the battery is looking for regardless of
>the shunt value. As you point out, with 20-30amps going through the dash
>meter it just won't last more than a few seconds!!!! It'll make a very
>expensive fuse!!
>
> >I would've expected more like 0.05 ohms for a current shunt that's
> >useful at 20 amps or so...
>
>Exactly!!!....and that value is much closer to what Tom originally
>calculated for the desired value than what he is running.
>
> > What's the resistance of the ammeter itself? Is it very low?.
> > Like 0.2 ohms or less?
>
> Tom said the resistance is 0.7 ohms. I measured about 1 ohm. I tried
>measuring with a fluke ohmmeter but the values the meter gave were
>obviously flaky. So I put a 1.5v flashlight battery across the meter.
>That gave me 0.6a through the meter and the voltage on the battery was
>pulled down to 0.6v. So I figure 1 ohm meter resistance. The meter
>deflection at 0,6a was slightly past 1/2 scale. This agrees with what Tom
>figured, which was 0.9a full scale deflection.

O.K., that makes a little more sense to me now that I know the gauge is
a low impedance device and handles a good part of the current.
Not like a real "shunt and millivoltmeter" setup where the shunt handles
almost all the current and the meter only a miniscule amount.
This is educational, I've never had need to deal with Ford ammeters before!
It seems extremely crude... I don't like that big fat wire living under
my dash. 'course I DO carry a fire extinguisher in ALL my vehicles.

Still, the numbers don't quite work for me.
If the meter is 1 ohm, and only takes 0.9 amps (lets call it 1 amp) to achieve
full deflection, than how can it be handling 85% of the current?
1.2 amps would bury the meter!
With 1 amp=full scale and a 1 ohm gauge resistance, it would take a shunt
resistance of about .034 ohms to achieve full scale at 30 amps.
Sooo, wazzup here?
I'm not saying that anyone is wrong, or that Your gauge doesn't work
right, but I'd like to know how this thing really works in case I
ever get to play this game.

What am I missing here? The math almost always works... (-:


Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 01:06:40 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

Aha. My M100 is a ranger. The 67 F250 I saw was also a ranger. I guess
back then, you weren't allowed to regulate the amount of heat in the cab
unless you got the style package.

BUT! My 1971 f250 Custom (yeah right, only custom thing about that truck is
the lovely custom dent my friend put in the roof when an ovehead router he
was hauling fell over onto the cab) has a slide control for a heater control
valve.

Modern times, I guess.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 01:13:18 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Strange Vibrations-360

>I've got a 360 that I just rebuilt in my '68 F100. The motor is a '68, has
>an Erson RV-10 cam, HO oil pump, Edelbrock 1406 600cmf carb, 4bbl intake
>off of a '65 Galaxie or something, and is bored 040 over. I've got about
>3k on the motor since the rebuild. Anyway, it's got this bad vibration
>right at 2000RPM. You start to feel it at 1800RPM, it rattles your teeth
>at 2000RPM, but it's gone by 2200RPM. Wierd. I was foolish not to have
>the motor balanced while it was at the machine shop, but that's behind me
>now. One thing that I did notice when I pulled the harmonic balancer was
>that the layer of rubber between the inner metal donut and the outer metal
>donut was dryrotted and cracking badly. Could this vibration be created by
>a bad balancer? If so then I'm home free. If not, what else should I look
>at? It's got fresh mounts any place that power/drivetrain is bolted to the
>frame.
>While it was at the machine shop, the wrist pins were rebushed and the
>crank main and rod journals were turned. Could this vibration possibly be
>caused by some sloppy internals?
>I know it's in the engine; it does it in any gear, including neutral.
>All help is greatly appreciated.
>
>
>bigric tamu.edu
>'68 F100 Custom Cab Stepside 360 4bbl

Mine too!! In my 71 f250 (360), I have had this weird "speed wobble"
(really an rpm wobble) which sounds identical to yours. It is the same
whether I had the old 2bbl with a single plane or the new 4bbl with dual
plane. It did it with the stock cam and old lifters, and with the new rv
cam, lifters, and timing chain, and with point type and electronic ignition.
It does it at basically any timing at about the same rpm. In neutral or on
the road. Actually on the road is probably less noticeable given the bumps
in the road, noise, etc.

Maybe it really is a harmonic vibration. I guess I should check my
'harmonic balancer' too!! Let me know what you find. What's the proper
thing to do, just buy a brand new one?

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net....


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