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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:47:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #289
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Wednesday, October 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 289



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

[none] ["JAMIE STONE" ]
RE: Cooling system question [Ken Payne ]
RE: Cooling system question [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: C6 re-install, any tips? [DC Beatty ]
RE: heater [DC Beatty ]
RE: Cooling system question [Ken Payne ]
RE: Cooling system question [DC Beatty ]
Motor mounts [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
RE: C6 re-install, any tips? [DC Beatty ]
[none] [Richard Cherico ]
Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Ammeter.....again ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
RE: electronic ignition [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. ["deconblu"
Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent.. [marko helix.net (marko]
The FE/edelbrock takes a long drive soon. [sdelanty sonic.net]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 15:00:37 PDT
From: "JAMIE STONE"
Subject: [none]

Hi everyone I'm a recent subscriber to the list, so I'm not sure if this
is a common question or not. If so please bear with me. I recently (6
months a go) traded my cousin for a '71 Ford F-100 2 wheel drive. Its a
great truck but unfortunately my cousin is hard on vehicles so not long
after I got it the engine went. (300ci I6 with 3 speed on the column)
I'm considering putting a V8 in it. Any idea what all is involed? Will
I have to get rid of the 3 speed? Do i need to change mounts? What about
the driveshaft and rearend? Talk to ya'll later!

The eternal (infernal) JukeBox Hero.


______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:10:22 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

At 08:42 PM 10/14/97 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>
>>My 67 has the pull-knob but it doesn't pull a valve on the hose.
>>Instead, there is an arm on the outside of the heater that pulls
>>a "flap" down in front of the heater radiator so air can't come
>>through. I guess they made two types.
>>
>>Ken
>
>Weirder!!
>
>See, mine does have the pull-on-heat knob, which you turn to the right to
>turn the fan on. The middle knob is the one that actuates the temperature
>regulator valve/heater control valve, says 'temp' on it. The knob on the
>right is pull for defrost, push for floor heat.
>
>I am at a loss to explain.
>
>
>marko in vancouver
>marko helix.net
>71 f250 4x4
>67 merc m100

Mine has a arm on the outside of the heater box itself which
is marked on (heat), def (heat/defrost) and off (defrost).

Maybe its because its a Merc? Or it has to do with model type.
Mine started life as a Custom Cab (in others, bottom of the
rung, not custom).

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 15:30:31 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

>At 08:42 PM 10/14/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>My 67 has the pull-knob but it doesn't pull a valve on the hose.
>>>Instead, there is an arm on the outside of the heater that pulls
>>>a "flap" down in front of the heater radiator so air can't come
>>>through. I guess they made two types.
>>>
>>>Ken
>>
>>Weirder!!
>>
>>See, mine does have the pull-on-heat knob, which you turn to the right to
>>turn the fan on. The middle knob is the one that actuates the temperature
>>regulator valve/heater control valve, says 'temp' on it. The knob on the
>>right is pull for defrost, push for floor heat.
>>
>>I am at a loss to explain.
>>
>>
>>marko in vancouver
>>marko helix.net
>>71 f250 4x4
>>67 merc m100
>
>Mine has a arm on the outside of the heater box itself which
>is marked on (heat), def (heat/defrost) and off (defrost).
>
>Maybe its because its a Merc? Or it has to do with model type.
>Mine started life as a Custom Cab (in others, bottom of the
>rung, not custom).
>
>Ken
>

Wow. This is completely weird. I will send pictures of my heater controls
with my truck pictures, ken. I don't think it's just a mercury thing
because a 67 f250 that I was looking at had the identical setup.

Go figure.


marko

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:24:12 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

Put the converter on first. Make *absolutely sure* that the shaft is as f=
ar
into the converter as it can go. I always put them on the shaft and spin
them while pushing on the converter. It will suddenly fall farther onto t=
he
shaft. =


If it's not all the way in you will destroy the pump as soon as you fire =
it
up. If you are real worried, bring the converter to the tranny shop and
have them slide it on. =


When you install it you can line up the flex plate holes with the studs o=
n
the converter. You can spin the converter to get them to line up right. =


Trust me ;-)

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- ----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 5:42 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: C6 re-install, any tips?


Group:

Just took my C6 out of my van to take to a local shop for repair (if anyo=
ne
remembers, I'm the guy with the van that won't go into 3rd gear). Notice=
d
the front input shaft to torque converter looks like it will be a challen=
ge
to line up and re-install when the time comes. Any experienced with this=

task have any tips for a newbie? I'm used to manuals where you can grab
the
rear of the trans in one hand and spin slightly left/right to line up wit=
h
clutch disc for insertion. Same trip with C6 to torque c. or is there a
better way?

John

96 F150 2wd, 302, 5pd daily driver
77 E250 4wd, 460, C6, custom van!




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:24:15 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: heater

Does it smell real sweet like brown sugar? Sounds like the heater core to=

me. The lack of wetness on the floor should change any day now. Right now=

it's probably just a pinhole-type leak dreaming of becoming larger and
larger...

Good Luck

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- ----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 2:11 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: heater


Well with all the talk about heaters latley, I thought I might as we=
ll
throw in the trouble I have been having with mine. I have a 78 F-250,
400M.
When the engine heats up, and I turn on the heater, I get steam comming o=
ut
of the vents, at least I think its steam. The windows fog up and a mist
fills the cab. I have looked through the inlet door just below the heate=
r
core and can't see or feel anything leaking, and there is no wet spot on
the
carpet. I would think it would have to br something wrong with the core,=

but before I go pulling it out, I though maybe someone might have another=

Idea. I just put in a 185 deg thermostate, I wasn't running one before,
this is about the time I noticed the problem.

I get the digest. Did anyone else miss #285, and 2 or 3 last week?
Art Lutz
78 F-250 XLT Ranger, 400M
94 Taurus (wifes car)




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:37:04 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

- -snip-

>>
>>Mine has a arm on the outside of the heater box itself which
>>is marked on (heat), def (heat/defrost) and off (defrost).
>>
>>Maybe its because its a Merc? Or it has to do with model type.
>>Mine started life as a Custom Cab (in others, bottom of the
>>rung, not custom).
>>
>>Ken
>>
>
>Wow. This is completely weird. I will send pictures of my heater controls
>with my truck pictures, ken. I don't think it's just a mercury thing
>because a 67 f250 that I was looking at had the identical setup.
>
>Go figure.
>
>
>marko
>

Maybe it has to do with production date or location? The pre-67s
had the same setup as my 67. Mine was built in Canada. Maybe
it got a left over 66 box?

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:24:09 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Cooling system question

Mine's just like Marko's. The center knob is cabled to the little valve i=
n
the heater hose. =


DC Beatty

- ----------
>
>My 67 has the pull-knob but it doesn't pull a valve on the hose.
>Instead, there is an arm on the outside of the heater that pulls
>a "flap" down in front of the heater radiator so air can't come
>through. I guess they made two types.
>
>Ken

Weirder!!

See, mine does have the pull-on-heat knob, which you turn to the right to=

turn the fan on. The middle knob is the one that actuates the temperatur=
e
regulator valve/heater control valve, says 'temp' on it. The knob on the=

right is pull for defrost, push for floor heat. =


I am at a loss to explain.


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 19:18:16 -0400
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Motor mounts

I am just about ready to plant the 302 into the 69 But I am missing one
important thing the motor mounts. It has a 240 in it now and so I need
to replace the entire things not just the rubber which by the way is
what the parts stores say. Other than a salvage yard where can I find
these thanks for the help.

Duke's
Fine 69

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:12:37 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

After reading my own message I found that what I was trying to say is
really unclear. College must be rotting my brain.

So...install the converter onto the tranny before you stout the whole thi=
ng
up to the motor. Shove the converter onto the input shaft and make sure i=
t
goes on all the way or you will be doing it all over again when the pump
grenades. =


When you install the tranny into the vehicle--with the converter properly=

seated on the input shaft-- there should be two dowel pins sticking out o=
f
the motor side which line up to corresponding holes in the bellhousing. T=
he
tranny will hang on these, but it is _always_ best to have a jack under i=
t
for support and safety. In this position you should be able to spin the
converter and get the flex plate holes to line up with the studs on the
converter. The converter also has a drain plug which should line up to a
corresponding hole in the flex plate. Line all this up and it should slid=
e
right into place without problems. =


If you are really worried about getting the converter on right have the
tranny shop put the converter on the input shaft for you before you leave=

with your tranny (and your empty wallet). =


I hope this all makes more sense than the last message. Words have sudden=
ly
lost all meaning. =


Thanks for your patience,

DC Beatty

- ----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 4:31 PM
To: "'INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net'"
Subject: RE: C6 re-install, any tips?

Put the converter on first. Make *absolutely sure* that the shaft is as f=
ar
into the converter as it can go. I always put them on the shaft and spin
them while pushing on the converter. It will suddenly fall farther onto t=
he
shaft. =


If it's not all the way in you will destroy the pump as soon as you fire =
it
up. If you are real worried, bring the converter to the tranny shop and
have them slide it on. =


When you install it you can line up the flex plate holes with the studs o=
n
the converter. You can spin the converter to get them to line up right. =


Trust me ;-)

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- ----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 5:42 AM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Subject: C6 re-install, any tips?


Group:

Just took my C6 out of my van to take to a local shop for repair (if anyo=
ne
remembers, I'm the guy with the van that won't go into 3rd gear). Notice=
d
the front input shaft to torque converter looks like it will be a challen=
ge
to line up and re-install when the time comes. Any experienced with this=

task have any tips for a newbie? I'm used to manuals where you can grab
the
rear of the trans in one hand and spin slightly left/right to line up wit=
h
clutch disc for insertion. Same trip with C6 to torque c. or is there a
better way?

John

96 F150 2wd, 302, 5pd daily driver
77 E250 4wd, 460, C6, custom van!




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:19:58 -0500
From: Richard Cherico
Subject: [none]

nomail
bigric tamu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:07:38 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

O.K. this talks about an old ch*vy truck, so those who are easily
offended please hit DEL now!
Those who can handle it, please continue. I'm looking for ch*vy advise
which may include a Ford drivetrain swap...

So this friend of mine, who is a pretty fair mechanic and does most
of the maintenance on Her VERY clean '67 Galaxy just bought
a '51 pickup. The price was *very* reasonable. The body is very
straight, with only a few dings. All the chrome and trim is there,
and in pretty good shape. It needs some window glass.
It hasn't been moved or run in 6-7 years and the drivetrain is in
unknown condition. I suspect it will need major help.
The biggest obvious flaw with the truck is... It's a CH*VY!! )-:
(I know, but stay with me...)
The truck is cute and has good potential, even considering it's bad
breeding, and I may help Her a little fixing it.

One of the first things I noticed is the tranny/rear axle.. It's got
a torque tube driveline... I'm not very familiar with these, and it
looks like something hard to get parts for, etc.

So, the Question:
Would anyone out there who is familiar with these c-word things write
me back privately please. I won't think bad things about You for knowing
these things... (-;

What I wannna know is about parts availability, pricing, and any other
general info about the 51 chevy tranny/rear axle/torque tube stuff.
Or where to find good info on these.
No, I'm not gonna join the ch*vy trucks list.
That would be just too.. creepy.

Cost of repair is a big issue for this stuff and if the stock stuff
can be made operable cheaply, that's what She'll do. If the stock stuff
is badly hosed and/or expensive/hard to repair, I'm gonna suggest a
driveline swap. If Your gonna swap the drivetrain, then there's not
much point in keeping the crappy ch*vy stuff, ehh?
(Ford content approaching..!)

Since Her galaxie has a 300-6 / C4 / 9inch, and She's already
familiar with this hardware and has good respect for it, it seems
like an obvious swap to push for.
Maybe a 302 instead of the 240/300-6 depending on wrecking yard costs...

Does anyone have any advise/wisdom/stories to share about poking a nice
Ford drivetrain into a early 50's ch*vy truck?

Please understand, She bought this truck without my prior knowledge and
I'm just trying to help Her out. I'd like to know what's involved with
fixing the ch*vy stuff, but I'm gonna push hard for Ford goods if the stock
stuff is gonna be much of a problem.

Please respond privately. (well, good stories about upgrading ch*vies
with good Ford parts might be fun publicly!)
Go easy on me, my asbestos suit is at the cleaners...

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:30:35 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ammeter.....again

- ------------------------------

Steve,

I owe you a thank you! Just a few days following your progress(?) with
your Edelbroke and I no longer have any desire for an aftermarket intake
manifold! You have managed to completely erase years of brainwashing from
tech articles and Hot Rod rag hype! Thanks again!

But seriously.......


> Err, this one caught my eye and bugged me a little...



>Certainly Your charging system is good for more than 10amps, he?
>And 10 amps thru a 1.2 ohm shunt is 120watts of energy wasted in the
>shunt!! That would make a massive amount of heat!

With this shunt value most of the current goes through the meter, like Tom
said. Sort of defeats the purpose of the shunt. I figure 86% of the
charge current goes through the dash meter at this shunt value. My
question to Tom and my concern is that he will inevitably cook his meter if
he keeps running it with this shunt. When the battery is low the
alternator will pump out the power the battery is looking for regardless of
the shunt value. As you point out, with 20-30amps going through the dash
meter it just won't last more than a few seconds!!!! It'll make a very
expensive fuse!!

>I would've expected more like 0.05 ohms for a current shunt that's
>useful at 20 amps or so...

Exactly!!!....and that value is much closer to what Tom originally
calculated for the desired value than what he is running.

> What's the resistance of the ammeter itself? Is it very low?.
> Like 0.2 ohms or less?

Tom said the resistance is 0.7 ohms. I measured about 1 ohm. I tried
measuring with a fluke ohmmeter but the values the meter gave were
obviously flaky. So I put a 1.5v flashlight battery across the meter.
That gave me 0.6a through the meter and the voltage on the battery was
pulled down to 0.6v. So I figure 1 ohm meter resistance. The meter
deflection at 0,6a was slightly past 1/2 scale. This agrees with what Tom
figured, which was 0.9a full scale deflection.

> I'm confused now,

>Steve Delanty

Steve.....not confused.......just a Edelbroke hangover!!!!!


Tom,
I'm not trying to be critical of your work. I think it is very
valuable.....just don't want others to follow unless they fully realize the
risk. Obviously you knew what you were doing when you decided that you
wanted 0.025 ohms to start with.

later,
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 13:04:52 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: RE: electronic ignition








I had an MSD 5A (as I remember) and it did a number with my Sun tach.
the needle would go crazy. MSD had an add-on part that worked but the
needle response lagged so much that I stopped using the MSD I also saw
no improvements at all.


This is just my experience maybe others have had good ones!

Dana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:15:05 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

IMHO,
Chevy bashing is just for fun. I've had a couple of Chevy trucks and had
a lot of trouble with them. I have also had a couple of Dodge's that I was
very happy with! Hopefully for your friend, her truck can be on the road
without a ton of work and be kept Chevy for $$'s sake.
If it can't, a '51 Chevy pick-up with a sb Ford c4 trans and a 9" rear
end! Wow! Wouldn't that put a tremor in the Sport Truck world!
The good thing (if you want to call it that) about Chevy is after-market
parts are readily available and cheaper then they are for Ford. We need
Chevy's for employment. Everyone and their mothers can make replacement
parts for Chevy's and make a damn good living at it. Fords you drive until
Mother Earth reclaims them!
(Sorry, Chevy bashing is fun)
With a complete DT switch, it may be worth buying a complete donor
vehicle and scraping the shell. Could get by cheaper that way. Wish I could
offer more info. I would like to see a '51 C' powered by Ford. Makes me
smile just thinking about it!
Good Luck Bro! If you talk her into dropping a Ford in it, keep us posted!

Jim Strigas
AKA
Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage for links to my favorite places on the Web
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
And to the Thunderbird Knights Homepage for a look at my favorite cars
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:28:08 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Ch*vy truck questions- but with Ford intent..

> IMHO,
> Chevy bashing is just for fun. I've had a couple of Chevy trucks and had
>a lot of trouble with them. I have also had a couple of Dodge's that I was
>very happy with! Hopefully for your friend, her truck can be on the road
>without a ton of work and be kept Chevy for $$'s sake.
> If it can't, a '51 Chevy pick-up with a sb Ford c4 trans and a 9" rear
>end! Wow! Wouldn't that put a tremor in the Sport Truck world!
> The good thing (if you want to call it that) about Chevy is after-market
>parts are readily available and cheaper then they are for Ford. We need
>Chevy's for employment. Everyone and their mothers can make replacement
>parts for Chevy's and make a damn good living at it. Fords you drive until
>Mother Earth reclaims them!
> (Sorry, Chevy bashing is fun)
> With a complete DT switch, it may be worth buying a complete donor
>vehicle and scraping the shell. Could get by cheaper that way. Wish I could
>offer more info. I would like to see a '51 C' powered by Ford. Makes me
>smile just thinking about it!
>Good Luck Bro! If you talk her into dropping a Ford in it, keep us posted!
>
>Jim Strigas
>AKA
>Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net

Then again, if money's not so much of an object, how about a 390GT or maybe
a 427? Or a totally built 351C (blow the doors of a 350)? Cmon Steve, now
that you've mastered an Edelbrock we all bet there's nothing you can't do if
you set your mind to it!

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4
67 merc m100

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:31:06 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: The FE/edelbrock takes a long drive soon.

Well, it's been about 50 miles so far, and the new edelbrock on my FE390
seems to be O.K. (now that it's FINALLY installed!)
No coolant, oil, or sucuum leaks that I've detected Yet.
(I'm surprised the dist seal doesn't leak... Maybe later.)
I do like the performance in general. I think it's no better than the
stock D4TE at higher RPMs.. (4500+), but it has more power in the lower
ranges where it gets used most for a "daily driver/work/play truck".
It also has a certain "smoothness" that the stocker didn't quite have.
It was quite good before, but the e-brock adds a light throttle "silkiness"
that wasn't there before. Most noticable at light throttle, 1100-1700rpm
especially when loafing along at 30-45 mph in top gear.
It good before, but it's better now.
Idle is also quite a little smoother, both hot and cold and it has less
tendancy to cough and die if you whack the throttle open from idle when
the motor is very cold. (one of those quick heel and toe launches from
a stop sign on a steep uphill road near my house.)
If it hadn't been warmed up for 2 minutes first it used to stumble and
maybe die at this intersection unless You were clever with the pedals.....


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