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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 03:50:31 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks61-79-digest)
To: fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks61-79-digest V1 #281
Reply-To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks61-79-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks61-79-digest Monday, October 13 1997 Volume 01 : Number 281



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

292 for sale [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
64 f-100 power brakes [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
power steering for 64 f-100 [garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)]
Keep It Clean ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: 64 f-100 power brakes [Don Grossman ]
Re: Keep It Clean ["deconblu" ]
73 360/c-6 into 68 [Joe DeLaurentis ]
Re: Tune up Ideas?? ["Brett McCoy"
Cooling system question ["Wayne T. Blythe" ]
Re: more on roller cam ["JAMES MERLO" ]
Re: Cooling system question ["Bear" ]
Edelbroke, FE, and me... a long unhappy story. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: A little prayer to the FE gods please.. [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: difference between 360/390? [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: electronic ignition [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Edelbroke, FE, and me... a long unhappy story. ["deconblu"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:07:38 -0500
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: 292 for sale

complete 292 with transmission less than 3000 miles since rebuilt ready
to run has everything ,pulled complete running unit from my truck
accepting realistic offers located in fort smith ar.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:13:38 -0500
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: 64 f-100 power brakes

can anyone tell me what power brake unit will fit my 64 f-100

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:16:48 -0500
From: garchap webtv.net (Gary Chapman)
Subject: power steering for 64 f-100

can anyone tell me where i can get a power steering unit that will fit
my 64 f-100 stock or aftermarket.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:20:16 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Keep It Clean


> So if I've offended anyone out there, You have my humblest apologies.
>Thanks for the reminder Ken!

Steve,

I for one was deeply offended by your comments! However, since I'm a
reasonable guy I'll be willing to forgive you if you give me your truck.
Off course you have to finish the manifold swap first! :-)

dale c

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 17:26:26 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 64 f-100 power brakes

Gary Chapman wrote:
>
> can anyone tell me what power brake unit will fit my 64 f-100

Well Gary, jus about any booster from 65-79 will easily bolt up to the
truck. You will have to add a couple of holes for the top two mounting
tabs on the booster brackets but everything else will line right up.
Now is also a good time to change the master cylinder and get rid of
that mayo. jar. If you even blow a brake line you will be glad you
did. The older boosters (65-72) are not as large as some of the later
ones so you might want to go with those. The added braking effect is
basicly the same as the later style and can be found in junk yards for
cheap.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44, power
steering, power brakes

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:03:07 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Keep It Clean

From: Dale

> > So if I've offended anyone out there, You have my humblest apologies.
> >Thanks for the reminder Ken!
>
> Steve,
>
>I for one was deeply offended by your comments! However, since I'm a
>reasonable guy I'll be willing to forgive you if you give me your truck.
>Off course you have to finish the manifold swap first! :-)

Finally the shoe is on the other foot. Steve getting the blame instead
of me! But the underlying message here is, Steve has a nicer truck than I
do!
It's true, Every Rose has it's Thorn! :( They say every dog has it's
day. Mine no doubt, will be in the pound! Hence the name Deacon Blues!

It's getting late. How is the intake manifold coming?


Jim Strigas
AKA
Deacon Blues deconblu gte.net
Visit The Deacon Blues Homepage for links to my favorite places on the Web
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
And to the Thunderbird Knights Homepage for a look at my favorite cars
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:15:40 -0700
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: 73 360/c-6 into 68

Anybody know if a 1973 F100 with a 360/c-6 4x4 can be transplanted
into my 68 f100 4x4 that has a 302 np435 4x4 now...
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:41:49 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Tune up Ideas??

George, I think that after kick down at 60 mph I would have about 3000 -
3500 RPM on a Tach, if I had one. But it sounds like it would be doing
about that. Before the tranny rebuild I manually held it in a few time and
go to about 45 mph in first, and 75 or 80 in second before I thought I was
really winding it out. The feel of the motor is that it is just getting
some leg at 60 mph when it shifts into second. Another ten or 15 mph would
be great to get.

In any case I swapped out the distributor cap and rotor today as a first
step to getting this thing in tune. I have to say I have NEVER seen a cap
that was this bad before. All the terminals inside were heavily worn and
rusty, yes I said rusty. I have seen some bad things on caps before but
never rust!! The wire ends that connect to the cap also seemed to have a
little corrotion. I think I will replace them just to be sure. I'm
thinking about ordering a set of Ford SVO wires from summit. Only $40.00
for 9mm spiral wound wires with the Motorsports logo and they are numbered
for each cylinder. Even I should be able to install them! I also plan to
replace the plugs. What do you guys think about Splitfire Plugs? Are they
worth the extra cost?? Would I be better off with the Champion Gold plugs
for half the cost?

Also I am still looking for on opinion, somebody must have one, on the
factory "Holly" carb. Should I rebuild or replace?? Numbers on the carb
are as follows.

On Carb: D9TE-9510-AEA List-8343 1818
On Tab by Choke: D97E-AEA 8F29

Any ideas what this thing is and how well it flows??

Thanks
- -B

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:44:29 -0400
From: "Wayne T. Blythe"
Subject: Cooling system question

I am replacing the water pump on my 1978 F-150 351 V8 several months
after removing it. Does it matter which heater hose goes to which
connection on the firewall? One appears to come from the water pump and
the other from the engine block.

If it matters, which is which? Thanks.

Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:41:56 -0500
From: "JAMES MERLO"
Subject: Re: more on roller cam

Would you like to share name, address, phone, etc.

- ----------
> From: Sleddog
> To: 'fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net'
> Subject: more on roller cam
> Date: Saturday, October 04, 1997 1:54 PM
>
> i have a great source for 460 parts. they do flathead and fe and y-block

> also, but mainly 460. the smallest they list for roller is over .645
lift
> and over 268 dur. .050. i know that they told me i can get profiles
other
> than what is in the catalog for hyd. cams - one day soon i hope to call
> about the roller cams. i am sure someone must be able to sell me a
smaller
> one. but i still don't know if any work has to be done to make the parts

> work/fit like machining the timing chain cover or block for a different
> thrust bearing or if the crossbars will fit without grinding away some of

> the block at the lifter bores like a freind of mine had to do with a 340
> even though he was told they'd drop right in.
>
> i actually don't mind a really big bump stick, but i do not want to have
to
> recut pistons or such and my bottom end may not last much over the 6500
> mark and i really doubt it will hold at all over the 7000 mark. BTW,
> another puller running a "big" 460 pulled down the track with a cast iron

> crank at over 9000 rpm and only just blew it apart this year - after at
> least 5 years on the crank. he now has decided to go proffessional. he
> has been #1 in points for the last 3 years or so in my class. guess he
had
> no where else to go!
>
> sleddog
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:00:08 -0500
From: "Bear"
Subject: Re: Cooling system question

If memory serves correct waterpump hose goes to the lower spot on the fire
wall. It is raining here otherwise I would go and check to be sure.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne T. Blythe
To: fordtrucks61-79 ListService.net
Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 9:24 PM
Subject: Cooling system question


>I am replacing the water pump on my 1978 F-150 351 V8 several months
>after removing it. Does it matter which heater hose goes to which
>connection on the firewall? One appears to come from the water pump and
>the other from the engine block.
>
>If it matters, which is which? Thanks.
>
>Wayne
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961 thru 1979 --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks61-79 listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks61-79-request listservice.net|
>+---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 20:52:10 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Edelbroke, FE, and me... a long unhappy story.

[Act 2 , scene 1.]

As the curtain rises we see a disreputable looking creamy white/rusty
'71 F100 flareside sitting in a gravel driveway. The hood is up, revealing
a partially disassembled FE390. The ground is littered with tools.
It is late in the day and darkness is closing in on the scene.
An exhausted looking long haired man in greasy T-shirt and blue jeans
stands next to the truck slowly banging his forehead against the drivers
door while chanting, "edelbrock sucks....edelbrock sucks....edelbrock.."

A siamese cat watches from a fence post, obviously amused, but keeping
a respectful distance.
After a few minutes the man looks up at the cat and asks, "why do things
like this happen?"
The cat ponders the question for a moment then begins to lick its butt.

[curtain falls, end of act 2 scene 1]

[curtain rises, begin act 2 scene 2]

The man is now sitting in a cluttered living room in front of a computer.
The area around him is littered with beer bottles.
The siamese cat is asleep on a chair near the wood stove.
A nearly empty bottle of Herra Durra tequila and shot glass sit near the
computer and a half finished plate of nachos sits nearby.
The man picks a bit of jalepeno and some cheese off the keyboard, puts
it in his mouth and begins to type....


So, today I went out to finish the edelbrock installation on the truck.
Yesterday I got it put on and torqued down but later realized the
edelbroke had a clearance problem with the pushrods, so I had to
remove it again to fix it.
The holes were cast all over the place. Some were centered up good,
and some were shifted sideways 3/16"!! Nice quality guys.
I thought yesterday sucked. Little did I know...

This morning I got out the die grinder and my favorite steel burrs,
a bar of soap (if You run the bit slowly in a bar of soap or block of
beeswax once in a while, it will keep the burrs from clogging with
aluminum chips), put on my goggles and ear plugs, and went at it.
It took a while with the grinder and several more "trial fittings",
but I finally got all the pushrods to clear the holes.
I was still concerned about how little clearance one had, so I
ground it a little more and then cleaned all the aluminum shavings
off it.
That's when I noticed the hole.
That little pinhole from the pushrod area into the #7 intake runner!
Aaarrrgghhh!!!!
Now mind You, I didn't grind thru into the port. The wall is still
over 1/8" thick there, but there's this long thin casting bubble that
starts in the port and I ground into it from the other side.
It left a hole big enough to poke a #18 wire from the pushrod side
into the port. THAT would have made cylinder #7 an oil burner for sure.

Sigh. O.K, a hole in an aluminum casting... no big deal, that's why
we all have TIG welders right?
So I spent an hour finding the right tungsten, getting the TIG set up
for aluminum and welding up my silly little hole.
Good thing it wasn't a big hole as my argon bottle was empty.

Finally the manifold is ready to go on again. So I goop everything up
with silicone, get the manifold all lined up and bolt it down.
Put the rockers back on, everythings cool now and I adjust the rockers.
Water pump and alternator goes back on easily enough.
The distributor goes in easily. Too easily. The dist hole in the edelbrock
is HUGE! It's almost .070" bigger than the one in the stock manifold, and
it's not centered very well. Distributor is fairly tight against one
side and real sloppy against the other. This looks like a leaker for
sure to me. The distributor seal isn't gonna deal with that very well.
I'll likely have to take the stupid thing off again someday soon to fix it.
TIG the hole up smaller, then open it back up to the right size in the
right place I guess. Just freaking fine. but there's nothing to be
done for it now.. so onward.

So, everything else goes on, valve covers, plug wires, carburetor, etc.
Get the timing set close and finally it's time to start the beast.
Crank it over till it lights up and runs crummy for a second and dies.
Try again... runs crummy for a second and dies. Fiddle with it for a
bit and find that it runs better with the idle mix screws cranked out
about 3 more turns.
Now it just runs crappy but doesn't die. And I can hear a slight
whistle somewhere. Say boys, we got us a vacuum leak! Rats! (Well,
rats is not actually what I said..)
So I get my can of WD40 and quickly find the leak. It's between the
carb spacer/PCV plate and the manifold.
Fine. Off comes the carb again.
Well, it turns out that the edelbroke manifold has a very small
carb flange. The sealing edges are very narrow compared to the stock
manifold, and the stock spacer block which is hollow on the bottom and
only seals around the edges will NOT work on the edelbroke. Aaarrggghh!!

So I hunt around the garage for another style spacer, but the only 4-bbl
one I have won't work either. Fine. Can I use it without the spacer?
No! The carb studs are too long. Besides, close examination reveals
that the edelbrock carb won't seal against the edelbroke manifold
without a spacer in place anyway...
No problem. The piece I need is listed in the edelbrock catalog for
only an additional $34.95! Err, 35 bux for a chunk of aluminum?
Bite me edelbroke!! I'll throw the damned manifold away before
I give edelbrock another $35...

Sooo, the saga continues. We'll see what I can come up with tomorrow.
This SOB better run REAL good when I'm done. I'm not very impressed
with it so far. This manifold may end up as a piece of art hanging
in my garage. We'll see.

[Man stops typing and curtain goes down. End of act 2, scene 2]

Hating my edelbrock now,

Steve Delanty
"So many idiots, so few meteors."



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:39:51 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: A little prayer to the FE gods please..

>>
>> If any of You know any appropriate prayers for changing FE manifolds
>> please direct them my way this morning... I'm gonna need all the
>> help I can get on this one.
>>
>> Tools and rags in hand, here I go,
>>
>
>Here's one...
>Oh watcher of FE lovers, have Steve send the Edlebrock to me if he
>gets too frustrated.
>Let us know how much it helps. How much did you get it for and
>where? Summit has them but FE intakes seem to cost twice as much
>as all the others.

I'll tell Ya Ken, by about 5pm today I would have *given* that sucker
to anybody who wanted it, and would help me put the stocker back on.
I got it from Stupid Shops and paid $229.95 for it.
They don't give the FE ones away. The SBC ones were on sale for $99!
It took them 3 weeks to get it. They said it would take about 5 days.
Those SS folks REALLY know how to give You the run around on the
phone too...

It's a pretty thing, but doesn't seem to be very accurately cast
and machined. The port openings and pushrod holes were all over
the place. The distributor hole is way too big and off center.
Haven't got it working yet, so I can't comment on the performance.
I keep telling myself it'll be worth the hassle. We'll see.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty
"So many idiots, so few meteors."



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:39:54 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: difference between 360/390?

>>
>> List,
>> How can one tell a 360 from a 390 Motor?????I've heard there identical
>> on the outside????ANy help would be appreciated
>> Joe
>> 68 F100 4x4

Hi Joe,
That's a tough one. The blocks are identical and often don't have
casting #'s. Many 360's/390's shared the same head castings, so that's
likely no help. You can decode the VIN tag, but that doesn't gaurantee
that someone hasn't swapped motors.
The easiest way is to take out a spark plug and measure the stroke
with a piece of wire. 3.5" = 360, 3.78" = 390.
I bought a FE for $75 for my truck. The guy told me it was a 360, but
when I got it home it was a 390! (-:

Good luck,

Steve Delanty
"So many idiots, so few meteors."



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:39:57 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: electronic ignition

>Hello. I am new to the list and wondered if anyone has bought and installed
>the electronic ignition kit JCW sells. The one I wondered about fits
>completely under the distributor cap. If so is it any good or can I convert
>over to a Ford system? Mike Bigby 66f100 custom cab
>

Mike,
What motor is in Your '66?
You can put a later style duraspark in most motors.
Wrecking yard stuff, or rebuilt from Your parts store. All good
stock Ford stuff, reliable, inexpensive, easy to get parts for etc...
You can also use the large cap and 8.5mm wires with them.
And the duraspark dist will drive an MSD box if You choose.
I love the duraspark distributor in my 71 F100 w/FE390.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty
"So many idiots, so few meteors."



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 22:40:49 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Edelbroke, FE, and me... a long unhappy story.

OUCH!
Ever read the story "Of Mice and Men"?

As the Edelbrock manifold sat looking across the lake, it said to Steve
"One day I'm going on your truck, aren't I Steve huh, aren't I Steve, huh,
huh, aren't I Steve! The camera fades back revealing a long haired man with
a pump shotgun...

Sorry to hear it Bro! The $$$ difference in performance parts makes it
understandable why people drop SBC's in their Fords. I mean it's immoral....


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