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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 14 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 099

In This Issue:
Re: putting 71 body on 76 frame
Removing door window glass
Re: Removing door window glass
Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Removing door window glass
Re: I Have a Sick 390FE
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
59 Mercury
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
FE distributor
Re: FE distributor
Lubricating Windows
Transfer case pawl were (was Basic questions...)
Replacing ball joints (was Basic questions...)
Re: Lubricating Windows
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
All Ford Day Seattle International Raceway

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Matt Schu" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: putting 71 body on 76 frame
Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 23:15:27 AKDT

ok, I purchased the 71 today. I got the truck because I needed another FE
block and because I want to "convert" my 76 into a 71 so that I don't have
the emissions headache any more. You see, for a 76 they completely tear the
thing up to make sure it is 100% stock, but on a 68-74 the emissions are
tail pipe only.

What do you guys think is the best way to make one "71" truck out of the
following parts. By the way, I got the title and license plate for the 71.

Truck 1.
1976 F-150
fresh 390 (still at machine shop)
c-6 auto, rebuilt with shift kit (works really well)
NP203 full time transfer case (married to transmission)
dana 44 in front, ford 9" in rear.
Bed is bad but fixable, cab and doors are bad but fixable, front is bad but
fixable.

truck2
1971 F-250
360, needs lots of work
4 speed manual
NP205 (divorced)
front axle ? rear axle?
bed is gone, cab and doors are ok, front is gone (grill, hood, fenders)

The only place on the truck I can find the vin number is inside the door. I
wonder if I could get away with just switching the vin tag, and the plates.
I don't think the kid at the quick lube that is inspecting the truck will
know that the body changed in 73. Besides the 71 doesn't require an
underhood inspection, so they should just read the vin then put the probe in
the tailpipe.

thanks for your help,

schu



> > I put a 68 full size truck body on a 73 full size frame. Everything
>bolted
> > up bolt for bolt. Was a very easy job. I did it to go from 2x4 to 4x4.
> >
>If you are going from one 4x2 frame to another, I would think that the bed
>wouldn't bolt right up, you would have to redrill it, the frame became
>wider
>in 73. I believe the F250 4x4 frames stayed the same width until mid 77, so
>it would be a straight swap.
>
>Phil Beattie
>66 F100
>70 F100
>91 F150 4x4
>

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Removing door window glass
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 05:40:14 -0700

Anyone ever remove a side window glass (73-79)? I have removed the vent
window and the regulator from the track on the bottom of the window but I
can't seem to get the glass out of the door.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 09:40:52 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Removing door window glass

>Anyone ever remove a side window glass (73-79)? I have removed the vent
>window and the regulator from the track on the bottom of the window but I
>can't seem to get the glass out of the door.

We've done it a few times. If memory serves me right, you have to pry the
door apart at the top a bit - you don't want to warp it. I'm pretty sure
we had to turn the window and slide it out sideways. It takes a bit of
wrestling but it does come out...



David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:03:31 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

I finally bit the bullet and bought a new project truck...a 79 F150 4x4.
The condition wasn't too bad (considering how most of the trucks up here
end up with winter and road salt) and the price was right - $1500. It's
pretty oily and crungy underneath but I've managed to determine the
following:

-351M engine
-C6 transmission
-part-time transfer case (it has free-running hubs but I'm not sure the
exact transfer case - haven't found the ID tag buried under all the sludge.)
- Ford 9" rear end (unless I'm mistaken, only the Dana axles come out the
back of the axle)
- front axle - not sure but I did find "3 50 D9TA ACB 610067 2" stamped
on the front cover, still looking for the tag

I've never driven a four-wheel drive other than a newer Explorer with
push-button 4x4 so I'm not sure the exact procedure for using the transfer
case. I have a 78 owner's manual, but it's got me a little confused.

Under "F-150-250 4x4 with Manual or Automatic Transmission and Optional
2-Speed Part Time Transfer Case" it says that "Free running hubs must be
locked before shifting into 4L or 4H." OK, makes sense to me but under
"Four-Wheel Drive Shifting With An Automatic Transmission and a Part-Time
Transfer Case" it says:

------
Hi-2W <-> Hi4W
1. This shift can be made in either direction while the vehicle is moving.
2. Apply power by depressing the accelerator slightly and move the transfer
case shift lever to the desired position.
------

This doesn't seem right to me - is it a misprint, are they referring to the
one-speed transfer case, or do I just not understand things right? I'm
pretty sure there are some experienced 4x4 owners on this list that can set
me straight on how to operate the transfer case. :-)

Also, does the transfer case shifter "click" into the different gears the
same way as the automatic transmission? It doesn't seem to and I'm curious
as to whether it should or if it shifts smoothly.

Thanks for all the help...


David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:28:32 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner



David Wadson wrote:
>
> I finally bit the bullet and bought a new project truck...a 79 F150 4x4.
> The condition wasn't too bad (considering how most of the trucks up here
> end up with winter and road salt) and the price was right - $1500. It's
> pretty oily and crungy underneath but I've managed to determine the
> following:
>
> -351M engine
> -C6 transmission
> -part-time transfer case (it has free-running hubs but I'm not sure the
> exact transfer case - haven't found the ID tag buried under all the sludge.)

NP205, if it is part time, NP203 for full time 4WD.

> - Ford 9" rear end (unless I'm mistaken, only the Dana axles come out the
> back of the axle)

Yes

> - front axle - not sure but I did find "3 50 D9TA ACB 610067 2" stamped
> on the front cover, still looking for the tag

Dana 44, reverse rotation, 3.5 gears.

> I've never driven a four-wheel drive other than a newer Explorer with
> push-button 4x4 so I'm not sure the exact procedure for using the transfer
> case. I have a 78 owner's manual, but it's got me a little confused.
>
> Under "F-150-250 4x4 with Manual or Automatic Transmission and Optional
> 2-Speed Part Time Transfer Case" it says that "Free running hubs must be
> locked before shifting into 4L or 4H." OK, makes sense to me but under
> "Four-Wheel Drive Shifting With An Automatic Transmission and a Part-Time
> Transfer Case" it says:
>
> ------
> Hi-2W <-> Hi4W
> 1. This shift can be made in either direction while the vehicle is moving.
> 2. Apply power by depressing the accelerator slightly and move the transfer
> case shift lever to the desired position.
> ------
>
> This doesn't seem right to me - is it a misprint, are they referring to the
> one-speed transfer case, or do I just not understand things right? I'm
> pretty sure there are some experienced 4x4 owners on this list that can set
> me straight on how to operate the transfer case. :-)

Once you lock hubs, front drivetrain is spinning the same speed as rear
drivetrain. This is what makes shifting into 4 hi on the go OK. If you
shift into 4 hi without hubs locked on the go, it will grind as front
drivetrain is not spinning at this point. If you are stopped, you can
shift into any transfer case range you want, but without the hubs
locked, it will not power the front. You can even use low range with
front hubs unlocked if you so choose for lots of rear drive power.

Another note. If you are stopped and hubs are locked, it helps to put
tranny in nuetral to go into 4 low. It may grind anyway, as viscous
shear of fluid will transfer some power to back of auto tranny even if
tranny is in nuetral. Try going into low very quickly and it will
minimize grinding.

> Also, does the transfer case shifter "click" into the different gears the
> same way as the automatic transmission? It doesn't seem to and I'm curious
> as to whether it should or if it shifts smoothly.

Yes, is should click in 4 positions, from back to front, you have 4WH,
2WH, NUETR--4WL. Clicks may be less pronounced if pawls in TC are warn
somewhat.


OX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 11:02:13 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

James Oxley wrote:

> Once you lock hubs, front drivetrain is spinning the same speed as rear
>drivetrain. This is what makes shifting into 4 hi on the go OK. If you
>shift into 4 hi without hubs locked on the go, it will grind as front
>drivetrain is not spinning at this point. If you are stopped, you can
>shift into any transfer case range you want, but without the hubs
>locked, it will not power the front. You can even use low range with
>front hubs unlocked if you so choose for lots of rear drive power.

But should you be driving with the hubs locked? I'm assuming you'll
eventually do some damage to the front drivetrain and shifting while the
drivetrain isn't spinning...the grinding is not a good thing! It's also
probably not a good thing to drive for an extended period with the transfer
case engaged and the hubs unlocked.

> Another note. If you are stopped and hubs are locked, it helps to put
>tranny in nuetral to go into 4 low. It may grind anyway, as viscous
>shear of fluid will transfer some power to back of auto tranny even if
>tranny is in nuetral. Try going into low very quickly and it will
>minimize grinding.
>
>> Also, does the transfer case shifter "click" into the different gears the
>> same way as the automatic transmission? It doesn't seem to and I'm curious
>> as to whether it should or if it shifts smoothly.
>
>Yes, is should click in 4 positions, from back to front, you have 4WH,
>2WH, NUETR--4WL. Clicks may be less pronounced if pawls in TC are warn
>somewhat.

Are they located internally or could layers of oily sludge effect the
crispness of the shifting? But given that the previous owner very regularly
used the 4WD, the pawls are likely to be quite worn and I'll be going by
feel. I haven't had time to play with the truck too much but how much
audible or physical feedback do you get from the truck as it engages in the
different modes like you get with the transmission?



David Wadson (wadsond air.on.ca)



------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 07:43:53 -0800



>James Oxley wrote:
>
>> Once you lock hubs, front drivetrain is spinning the same speed as rear
>>drivetrain. This is what makes shifting into 4 hi on the go OK.
snip
>
>But should you be driving with the hubs locked? I'm assuming you'll
>eventually do some damage to the front drivetrain and shifting while the
>drivetrain isn't spinning...the grinding is not a good thing! It's also
>probably not a good thing to drive for an extended period with the transfer
>case engaged and the hubs unlocked.

First, all of Ox's points were spot on. good Job Sir Ox :-)

Leaving the hubs locked does increase the front end drive line wear some
amount, but very little. I live in a climate that is under ice and snow most
of the year and I wheel all the rest of the time. So my hubs are locked 300
or so days a year. No real problems. Keep the u-joints maintained, make
sure the front drive shaft is balanced ( a very slight cost some people skip
when having a front DS built thinking they only drive in 4wd slowly, and
there fore do not need to balance it...WRONG)

And you are probable correct, having the TC in 4L and the hubs unlocked
would probable cause some wear in the hubs if done for long distances,, but
this technic is used to provide a little extra TQ to the wheels, on hard
ground , going slow, when turning which in 4wd, hubs locked would cause
drive line bind.. I've used 2wd low a few times to menuver large trailers in
parking lots, the low gearing helps control the load and goes easy on my
clutch. (trailer and load weighs over twice what the bronco weighs!)

>>Yes, is should click in 4 positions, from back to front, you have 4WH,
>>2WH, NUETR--4WL. Clicks may be less pronounced if pawls in TC are warn
>>somewhat.
>
>Are they located internally or could layers of oily sludge effect the
>crispness of the shifting? But given that the previous owner very regularly
>used the 4WD, the pawls are likely to be quite worn and I'll be going by
>feel. I haven't had time to play with the truck too much but how much
>audible or physical feedback do you get from the truck as it engages in the
>different modes like you get with the transmission?
>
The pawls Ox is refering to are inside the case, but the extra sludge and
dirt on the outside near the shift linkage may not be helping things,,,,,I
would get it all cleaned up than see how it does.

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 12:05:24 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

>Leaving the hubs locked does increase the front end drive line wear some
>amount, but very little. I live in a climate that is under ice and snow most
>of the year and I wheel all the rest of the time. So my hubs are locked 300
>or so days a year. No real problems. Keep the u-joints maintained, make
>sure the front drive shaft is balanced ( a very slight cost some people skip
>when having a front DS built thinking they only drive in 4wd slowly, and
>there fore do not need to balance it...WRONG)

I'm almost looking forward to winter again!

>And you are probable correct, having the TC in 4L and the hubs unlocked
>would probable cause some wear in the hubs if done for long distances,, but
>this technic is used to provide a little extra TQ to the wheels, on hard
>ground , going slow, when turning which in 4wd, hubs locked would cause
>drive line bind.. I've used 2wd low a few times to menuver large trailers in
>parking lots, the low gearing helps control the load and goes easy on my
>clutch. (trailer and load weighs over twice what the bronco weighs!)
>
>>>Yes, is should click in 4 positions, from back to front, you have 4WH,
>>>2WH, NUETR--4WL. Clicks may be less pronounced if pawls in TC are warn
>>>somewhat.
>>
>>Are they located internally or could layers of oily sludge effect the
>>crispness of the shifting? But given that the previous owner very regularly
>>used the 4WD, the pawls are likely to be quite worn and I'll be going by
>>feel. I haven't had time to play with the truck too much but how much
>>audible or physical feedback do you get from the truck as it engages in the
>>different modes like you get with the transmission?
>>
>The pawls Ox is refering to are inside the case, but the extra sludge and
>dirt on the outside near the shift linkage may not be helping things,,,,,I
>would get it all cleaned up than see how it does.

I have a fair bit of little things to take care of for the safety check
(lights, horn, etc) as well as a bunch of brake work (new drums, shoes) and
then some bigger stuff: rear axle seals, rear pinion seal, leaking power
steering box (not looking forward to that), broken gear indicator on the
column, ball joints on one side (gonna let the mechanic fix those for me).
But before I tackle most of that stuff I'm taking the pressure sprayer to
the underside!

I'm planning on parking the 2WD and driving the 4x4 all winter (no more
getting stuck on 5 degree grades that have a bit of slush on them!) so I'm
gonna spend the summer figuring out how to work and maintain all this
stuff....I'll be spending much more time on this list again!

I must say, the 4WD has such a nice, mean height to it compared to a 2WD...




David Wadson - wadsond air.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 08:13:41 -0800

>I have a fair bit of little things to take care of for the safety check
>(lights, horn, etc) as well as a bunch of brake work (new drums, shoes) and
>then some bigger stuff: rear axle seals, rear pinion seal, leaking power
>steering box (not looking forward to that), broken gear indicator on the
>column, ball joints on one side (gonna let the mechanic fix those for me).
>But before I tackle most of that stuff I'm taking the pressure sprayer to
>the underside!
>

From the sounds of it, you are mechanically inclined...if so, change those
ball joints your self. It really is easy, about the only thing you may not
be able to do is the pressing of the ball joints out, then back in to the
knuckle. Then you can spend the saved cash on a new toy for the truck :-)

Erik Marquez
bronco78 alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:21:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Removing door window glass

you need to pull the felt strips from the bottom of the sill out. Use a
putty knife to twist em out, if they are in good shape, be careful, they
might crack.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety" 460 4speed

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:21:43 EDT
Subject: Re: I Have a Sick 390FE

In a message dated 5/13/00 2:59:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:

<< Fellas -- my brother's 390 is missing, too, but ALWAYS when it shifts into
3rd. What say ye: transmission-related or just missing under load?

Texican Teacher, 70 F100 Shorty w/300 I-6 >>

It sure sounds like it is load related, if it has points that is where I
would start, however, bad plugs/wires, distributor cap, or coil can and does
cause what you described. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 17:23:24 -0400

It really is easy, about the only thing you may not
> be able to do is the pressing of the ball joints out, then back in to the
> knuckle. Then you can spend the saved cash on a new toy for the truck :-)
>
> Erik Marquez
> bronco78alaska.com
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
==========================================================
while your changing them WHY NOT just remove the upper and lower control
arms and take them to a auto parts with a press and let them press in your
joints and new upper and lower control arm bushings that will help it to
drive like new again and most likely they are wore out anyways
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:29:28 -0800

Hum, well I guess because a 1979 F150 4x4 has no control arms :-) Just
playing with ya..... You must have missed his vehicle description LOL

But a good idea if it had had them...

Erik Marquez
bronco78alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal
-----Original Message-----
From: G & J Boling alltel.net>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 1:24 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner


>It really is easy, about the only thing you may not
>> be able to do is the pressing of the ball joints out, then back in to the
>> knuckle. Then you can spend the saved cash on a new toy for the truck :-)
>>
>> Erik Marquez
>> bronco78alaska.com
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
>==========================================================
>while your changing them WHY NOT just remove the upper and lower control
>arms and take them to a auto parts with a press and let them press in your
>joints and new upper and lower control arm bushings that will help it to
>drive like new again and most likely they are wore out anyways
>gordon
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:10:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: younkersauracom.com (R)
Subject: 59 Mercury

On my way home this evening I stopped for gas at an Ultramar station outside
Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. Alongside the station, some guy always has some
vehicles for sale and he currently has a 1959 Mercury 4X4 there. I just had
a quick look at it, but it seems reasonably solid. It had a straight six
(300?). The front fenders and the area around the grill were in hard shape
but the cab and the box were in surprisingly good shape. Just wondering if
fenders for this vehicle are available somewhere, and also, what it might be
worth. The pump jockey I talked to said he thought the only it needed for
an mvi (motor vehicle inspection) was body work. The sign on it asked for
$3000 (Canadian dollars don't forget) which seemed a bit steep to me, but
I'm not sure how rare these trucks are. Any thoughts on this would be
welcomed. Also if anyone happened to be interested in it, I can track down
a phone number for you.

Thanks

Robert Younker
Proud Owner
1978 F-150 Step Side 4X4 (156,000km) plate - NTFRGLE
1995 SHO Taurus (134,000km)
1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (249,000 km) plate - PWRBY4D


Over 500,000 kilometres of Power By FORD


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 20:02:47 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner



David Wadson wrote:
>
> James Oxley wrote:
>
> > Once you lock hubs, front drivetrain is spinning the same speed as rear
> >drivetrain. This is what makes shifting into 4 hi on the go OK. If you
> >shift into 4 hi without hubs locked on the go, it will grind as front
> >drivetrain is not spinning at this point. If you are stopped, you can
> >shift into any transfer case range you want, but without the hubs
> >locked, it will not power the front. You can even use low range with
> >front hubs unlocked if you so choose for lots of rear drive power.
>
> But should you be driving with the hubs locked?

Won't hurt anything cept maybe gas milage. It may have a slight affect
on front drivetrain longetivity, but since nothing is under load, it
wears very little. Biggest wear item would probably be axle seals.

I'm assuming you'll
> eventually do some damage to the front drivetrain and shifting while the
> drivetrain isn't spinning...the grinding is not a good thing!

That is true.

It's also
> probably not a good thing to drive for an extended period with the transfer
> case engaged and the hubs unlocked.

That is the same as the hubs locked and TC in 2WD. Won't hurt much,
since there is no load. Not really advisable either way for gas milage
and axle/TC yoke seals.

> Are they located internally or could layers of oily sludge effect the
> crispness of the shifting?

They are internal.

> But given that the previous owner very regularly
> used the 4WD, the pawls are likely to be quite worn and I'll be going by
> feel.

Between the trucks I've owned, driven, gotten for parts and played with
in the junkyards (probably about 25 transfer cases), I've neevr had one
that I could not feel the pawl detents in. In fact, I've only had one
NP205 that I had a problem with. Every once in a while it would shift
out of 4 low on its own.

> I haven't had time to play with the truck too much but how much
> audible or physical feedback do you get from the truck as it engages in the
> different modes like you get with the transmission?
>

Quite a bit. It does take quite a bit less throw to go through 4WD-2WD-
nuetral, than it does to go 4 low which is way up forward.

OX

------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: FE distributor
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:40:53 -0500


Ladies and gents of the list, I'm looking for a points distributor for an FE. Nostalgia, or originality, has made me decide I want to set the points every month. I just need the distributor body and shaft. I have a good plate assembly, but due to a lack of oil pressure, the thrust bushing ate the bottom of the housing. The distributor now has about 1/4" of verticle play-not good! Anyway, let me know what you've got and how much you want, and we'll make a deal!

Jason Kendrick in southwest Iowa
PS. I also have a rebuildable 289 shortblock for sale.


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: FE distributor
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:48:29 -0400

I'm looking for a points distributor for an FE. Nostalgia, or originality,
has made me decide I want to set the points every month.
> Jason Kendrick in southwest Iowa
==========================================================
JASON
NAPA has rebuilt ones for about 45.00 bucks + exchange still
GORDON


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:47:20 -0700
From: Tim Bowman uswest.net>
Subject: Lubricating Windows

The door windows on my '71 F100 are getting increasingly hard to roll up
and down. Does anybody know of a technique or trick to make it easier
to roll them up and down (short of pulling the door panel off and
lubricating the sliding mechanism at the bottom of the door.

Thanks for any help.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowmanuswest.net



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 00:12:36 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Transfer case pawl were (was Basic questions...)

> Between the trucks I've owned, driven, gotten for parts and played with
>in the junkyards (probably about 25 transfer cases), I've neevr had one
>that I could not feel the pawl detents in. In fact, I've only had one
>NP205 that I had a problem with. Every once in a while it would shift
>out of 4 low on its own.
>
>> I haven't had time to play with the truck too much but how much
>> audible or physical feedback do you get from the truck as it engages in the
>> different modes like you get with the transmission?
>>
>
>Quite a bit. It does take quite a bit less throw to go through 4WD-2WD-
>nuetral, than it does to go 4 low which is way up forward.

Interesting. I'm going to have to play around with this a little more. I
really wish I had vacation time available now instead of booked off in
October! At least the weather is warm enough to work outside in the evening
but cool enough that there aren't many bugs out yet. Working in a
sweltering garage with mosquito coils burning all around you really sucks!

Does being in Park instead of Neutral have any effect on shifting the
transfer case?


David Wadson - wadsondair.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 00:04:33 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Replacing ball joints (was Basic questions...)

>From the sounds of it, you are mechanically inclined...if so, change those
>ball joints your self. It really is easy, about the only thing you may not
>be able to do is the pressing of the ball joints out, then back in to the
>knuckle. Then you can spend the saved cash on a new toy for the truck :-)

Well, I essentially tore down my '78 2WD and put it back together from the
frame up. Not a "restoration" but more a rebuild. It was actually fun to do
except the truck was at my inlaws house about 30 minutes away and the
frustration of trying to remove a set of seized kingpins really took the
steam out of the project and it took me about 2 years to get it done. But I
did learn a heck of a lot and it was nicer to be rebuilding a truck rather
than continually fixing one. Just rebuilding a whole brake system (all new
parts except for the differential valve, made new lines, etc.) was
invaluable so I don't mind having to do that stuff for this 4x4.

The leaking axle seals and pinion seal shouldn't be too hard, plus my Ford
truck buddy has done them before. I'm going over the procedure for ball
joint replacement in my Chilton manual...the Hayne's version doesn't seem
to have it. I'm beginning to remember what frustrated me the most while
redoing the 2WD...the manuals seem to rarely agree on things! I'll have to
check the local Canadian Tire store (oh how I hate that place) to see if
they have loaner ball joint tools. It's tempting to do it myself but after
trying to do kingpins, I know what a pain it is to have an truck that you
can't put a tire back onto.

But, you're probably right - the manuals tend to complicate things (heck,
my first attempt at rebuilding an engine has been running pretty good!) and
the ball joints probably seem worse then they really are. I'll get in there
a have a look at exactly what's involved, throw any questions I may have at
you guys and decide whether I'll be attempting it. The couple hundred bucks
in labour could be better spent though I'm not sure on what quite yet. I
had only half-jokingly offered the truck to my fiance while she's home from
school for the summer. Five days after she was bemoaning the fact that I
was considering buying the truck she's asking me if I was serious about
letting her use it. I don't think I'll spend any saved money until the
winter when I actually get to drive it!

But before I do anything, I'm going to tackle the mess of wiring. A bunch
of the essential lights aren't working and the harness under the dash has
been mangled. The horn on the wheel must have broken and has been rewired
with a doorbell switch ?! under the dash and to start it, there's a button
switch left of the steering column that you have to hold down while turning
the key. The Sparkomatic brand stereo instead of an original Ford radio has
us convinced that we're going to be better off replacing the entire harness
with an unmolested one from the scrap yard rather than trying to decipher
what's been done to this one! Oh well, at least this part will be the
inexpensive part...


David Wadson - wadsondair.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Lubricating Windows
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:51:43 -0600

There is a C channel track at the bottom of the window that must be
greased. Unfortunately the armrest, door lever, window crank, chrome trim,
and door panel must be removed in order to access the area.

I used synthetic wheel bearing grease a couple of years ago on my 69
F250, and it still works smoothly today. The trickiest part of the job is
the chrome trim around the door panel. You can usually find a loose spot on
the chrome and get a flat bladed screwdriver under it to gently pry it away
from the door panel. Make sure all fasteners are in place on the trim and
have a snug fit before installing the trim onto the door panel. It may be
necessary to bend some fasteners into shape using pliers, or buy new
fasteners for reassembly.

You may want to consider your side mirrors once the door panel is off.
If you have a loose mirror fastener or want to change mirrors, now would be
the time to do so.

Michael
~~~~~~~~~~~~
> The door windows on my '71 F100 are getting increasingly hard to roll up
> and down. Does anybody know of a technique or trick to make it easier
> to roll them up and down (short of pulling the door panel off and
> lubricating the sliding mechanism at the bottom of the door.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> --
> Tim Bowman
> Burien, WA
> tkbowmanuswest.net


------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 00:57:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

I have been watching the interchange about shifting and running with the hubs
locked in or out. Just one thing I would like to mention, and that is when
you make a turn in 4-WD with the hubs locked in your tires slip, slide, or
hop. This is because the front axle is running in a larger circle than the
rear axle and something has to give. My truck on pavement hops and make
terrible noises when I turn sharp corners. The axles and drive lines wind up
and then suddenly the tension is released by one of the tires chirping. That
happens for those trucks that have the same ratio front and rear. Some of
the Ford 4x4 trucks had a faster ratio on the front axles than the rear and I
can tell you it enhances the hopping. For example my 1972 front axle is
4.9:1 while the rear is 4.10:1. I am not sure all of the years that Ford did
this (if anyone knows please let me know, and why) but that different ratio
is more incentive for not running 4-WD locked in on dry pavement. It really
does put added stress on the drive line components (for me U-joints), besides
wearing the tires down more rapidly.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:03:35 -0800



>I have been watching the interchange about shifting and running with the
hubs
>locked in or out. Just one thing I would like to mention, and that is when
>you make a turn in 4-WD with the hubs locked in your tires slip, slide, or
>hop. This is because the front axle is running in a larger circle than the
>rear axle and something has to give.
Well yes and no.. with the hubs locked but the transfer case in 2wd you
should not notice much in the way of drive line bind.. the front axle in no
way is connected to the rear when the TC is in 2wd. If you have some type
of traction adding differential in the front end this would most definitely
increase the "push" you feel with the hubs locked.

Erik Marquez
bronco78alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:41:25 -0700
From: Tim Bowman uswest.net>
Subject: All Ford Day Seattle International Raceway

For all you Pacific NW Ford enthusiasts, there is an ALL FORD DAY at
Seattle International Raceway on Saturday, June 3, 2000. There's a Show
'n Shine, Drag Racing, Flea Market and more. For more details contact
me offlist.

On Sunday, June 4, 2000, the All Ford Picnic is being held at Bellevue
Community College

For a pretty complete listing of Pacific NW events, please go to my
website (address below) where I have two lists posted.
--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowmanuswest.net
Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman


------------------------------

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