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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:08:43 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:08:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #9
Precedence: bulk

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 16 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 009

In This Issue:
Re: Motorcraft choke
Re: shift lever for automatic loose
Re: help needed on 400
Re: Motorcraft choke
Re: Motorcraft choke
BRAKES
Re: Types of C6's
Re: help needed on 400
Re: help needed on 400
Re: BRAKES
SanDiego JunkYards
Re: Aftermarket Steering Shafts
Re: SanDiego JunkYards
390 ticking
Re: 390 ticking
Re: 390 ticking
Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals
Re: C-6 chatter
SHOP MANUAL SALE!!
Diesel into 79 F250
carparts.com
Re: Diesel into 79 F250
Re: SHOP MANUAL SALE!!
Price of a New Ford
Re: 390 ticking
FW: 360 in 74

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Motorcraft choke
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:04:36 -0500

Well, it appears that your fast idle cam is working but your electric choke
is not opening all the way so it is either turned too far (too rich) or not
working. My Holley was coming off too fast so a new cap and resistor fixed
that but you have the opposit problem.

To adjust the choke do this:

Run the engine till you know its well wamed up, at least 10 minutes at fast
idle. Remove the air cleaner, loosen the choke cap screws and turn the cap
(you will have to break the vacuum seal by cocking it a tad to turn it with
engine running) in the direction needed to close the choke, then back it off
untill it is "just" completely open but keep the engine running so the choke
spring is kept hot. This is the richest position you can safely use to
ensure the choke will fully open.

Ideally there should be a slight spring pressure at full open, holding it
open but as long as it is open with no pressure on it the incoming air will
pull it open as needed so it can flop a tiny bit if you need to to get
enough choke when it's cold.

DO NOT SET A CHOKE WHEN FULLY COLD OR ANYWHERE IN BETWEEN! The spring has a
serious amount of preload on it when cold so you will have no clue where you
are when it gets hot if you do this. Once you have set it hot as above
then you can always "lean" it out if you need to by giving it more hot, open
preload but now you know how far you can "rich" it up, lean is open ended,
you can make it so lean the choke never closes if you want but I don't
recommend that approach since your fast idle will never come on and you will
be running very lean when the engine is cold and it may not start without
pumping your brains out either (assuming your accellerator pump actually
works :-))

My 335 series with Holley 4v needs some choke for about 7 or so minutes to
ensure good throttle response when cold. I just remembered that my
Edlebrock performance manifold has no air plenum for the choke so will have
to run longer tubing from something else......any ideas?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Here is my morning drill BTW it is about 30 degrees F
>Floor it once,hit key and it starts instantly:)and idles about 2000
>I let it run a couple of minutes and gas it and high idle
>disengages and
>it idles at about 1000.
>I then let it warm up a little more and drive off.When I get to a
>stoplight it is idling at about 1500.I gas it and it idles
>down to 1000.

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: shift lever for automatic loose
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:09:15 -0600

> also the pointer is
> missing for the
> P R N D 2 1 window, where can i get one of those?

Ugh, you have to pull the wheel to get one of those pointers, at least I
haven't been able to snake mine out even with the play on the steering wheel
...

it just slips into a groove on the shift collar, so it shouldn't be too hard
to get out once the wheel's off ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: help needed on 400
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:10:51 -0600

> has
> any one ever ran across this? how do you remove them?
>

I thought there were a couple of notches on them to let you tap them out if
they were stuck in there, but maybe there aren't ?

I had a similar problem on a 2.8L once, all the parts for the motor were in
the back of the car and I was digging forever, finally found there was an
adapter to point the filter straight down and it used a large hollow bolt to
hold it onto the block ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Motorcraft choke
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:11:55 -0600

> What the heck is going on and why do I have 3 different idle speeds?
> You should see the looks I get revin' my engine at every light:)

Wow, I wish I had that ...mine's either on or off :(

I don't know that I can help you out with fixin it, someone suggested
leaning it out a bit more, that might help the situation ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Motorcraft choke
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:28:28 -0500

In this case you may have a sticking fast idle cam. Most of these are
weighted so they come off simply by dropping out of the way when the choke
arm is out of its way. If it has dirt in it it will stick and will operate
erratically. Use carb cleaner to clean out the road dirt and oil etc. then
either leave it dry or spray some silicone lub on it. I'm using this now
and it seems to work better than either oil or dry. Never had much luck
with dry and heavy motor oil picks up dirt very fast. Light oils dry out
and cause their own stickyness. Silicone seems to be pretty consistant and
lasts longer than any other treatment I've tried to date but you should
clean it first, then apply silicone :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>My truck acts exactly the same way, altho I'm not sure about the exact
>rpms, but the temp outside has nothing to do with it. (The temp in SF
>these days varies from 35 to 70.)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:39:07 -0600
Subject: BRAKES
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> since both MC pistons ARE the same size :-)

Right, Gary. The piston assembly is the same diameter for both parts. I
don't know how, but the reservoir for the front discs moves more fluid and
generates more force at the pads. I haven't had a mc apart in about 12
years. I have lifetime warranty units on everything I own so I just replace
the whole thing. Someone that has an old mc lying around and nothing to do
should pull the piston assembly out and see if they can distinguish the
difference. It may be two cups pushing or a bigger intake hole or some kind
of two stage setup.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:06:13 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Types of C6's

Dont forget C6's come with a fixed yolk or a slip yolk... Mine is fixed
yolk and has a weird tailshaft housing for my divoriced NP 205 T case
shifter and has the speedo drive gear hole is still undrilled.

Laters all, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: help needed on 400
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 07:33:13 -0800

The one in my 400 doesn't have any notches and the Monroe book doesn't
mention a way to get it out. Evidently some of the 335/385 series oil filter
adapters had hex fittings on them but neither of the ones I have right now
do. Sorry I can't be of more help but unless you use vise grips or find a
couple of really shallow nuts that you can thread on the adapter and run
against each other I don't see a way to get it out.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"


----- Original Message -----
From: William S. Hart iastate.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:10 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: help needed on 400


> > has
> > any one ever ran across this? how do you remove them?
> >
>
> I thought there were a couple of notches on them to let you tap them out
if
> they were stuck in there, but maybe there aren't ?
>
> I had a similar problem on a 2.8L once, all the parts for the motor were
in
> the back of the car and I was digging forever, finally found there was an
> adapter to point the filter straight down and it used a large hollow bolt
to
> hold it onto the block ...
>




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:18:41 -0500
Subject: Re: help needed on 400
From: Jeff Simmons juno.com>

Jeff, on your oil filter threads there is a tool like an easy out that
uses rollers instead of splines like most easy outs. the rollers work on
a cam set up so the harder you turn it with your ratchet the more force
on inside of your threaded piece. Your local machine shop should have one
maybe they can help you out. If not you may have to purchase your own.
Good luck.
Jeff in KC


On Wed, 16 Feb 2000 01:13:27 EST JJJJJGRANT aol.com writes:
> the 400 shortblock i bought for the f250 is missing the threaded part
> in the
> block for the oil filter, and i can't get the one out of the junk
> engine, has
> any one ever ran across this? how do you remove them?
>
> jeff grant
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: BRAKES
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:28:32 -0500

The distinction is that the two pistons are separated by a spring and once
they pass the bleed holes they push each other. Right now I'm thinking the
front brakes are controled by the rear piston which pushes the rear brake
piston til it begins to develop "pressure". Up to that point both pistons
are just moving the cylinder pistons to a point of resistance higher than
the spring separating them. Once the first line (front or rear) comes up
harder than that spring the spring begins to compress until both lines have
equal pressure and from there they move together. The rear probably comes
up hard first then the MC "system" works against the proportioning valve
spring until it is overcome at which point the front wheel pistons now have
that much more pressure on them over the rear and from there they again move
together with that same differential.

The key to this whole thing working well is that the front pistons can not
be allowed to back off very much or you will not have enough stroke to get
them tight enough to stop the vehicle so something has to be in the system
to restrict this "backing off" up front. Without the "residual" valve in
the front, the rear comes up hard and the front piston keeps moving until
the pads are again in contact with the rotors. If they have moved back very
far then the larger size of the caliper pistons will require more MC travel
than it has available and the pedal goes to the floor or very close to it.

When I say "comes up hard" I mean all parts are touching and are beginning
to resist the cylinder pistons efforts, not fully engaged as in a panic stop
so please don't confuse this :-)

The front MC piston certainly does generate more pressure at the pads that
at the drums, called "total force" applied because the rear pistons are
smaller than the front and the diameter (area) of the larger piston exerts a
force equal to the area in square inches times the PSI being applied by the
MC. Since the rears are smaller, the same pressure applied there pushes
less hard but moves the slave at a faster rate which comes to an abrupt halt
when all parts are fully engaged of course :-) With the spring between the
two MC pistons all parts come up to full engagement before any serious
pressure is applied at either end to actually brake the vehicle.

Since the line pressures are very high during a hard stop, any air in the
system, even a few bubbles can cause an amazing amount of pedal travel
because, while brake fluid is essentially not compressable, air is VERY
conpressable and it doesn't take much room in the line to cause a lot of
movement in the pedal due to mechanical advantage etc....

I hope I have explained this well enough. If you are the least bit familiar
with hydraulics the system is not that hard to visualize but I may have
complicated it too much?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Right, Gary. The piston assembly is the same diameter for both parts. I
>don't know how, but the reservoir for the front discs moves
>more fluid and
>generates more force at the pads.

------------------------------

From: "Bill Deacon" surfside.net>
Subject: SanDiego JunkYards
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:55:23 -0800

does anyone know of a good pick-your-own junk yard in the san diego
area
(north preferably)
There are several Ecology Auto Wrecking locations in your area;
Oceanside---2315 Carpenter Rd (760)757-7770
San Diego---1180 Heritage Rd (619)409-9200
Chula Vista---800 & 825 Energy Way (619) 409-9200
I know Pick Your Part has a few locations in your area, but I don't have
the addresses. Have Fun! Bill



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Steering Shafts
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:17:20 -0500

My understanding is that Borgeson originally developed the shafts for custom
and racing applications where stock steering columns could not be used or
where stock columns were used with modified frame layouts etc.. It's the
same technology of course so an easy move either way for either one.
Overlap in this case is almost a certain outcome :-)

The replacement shafts I saw at their site for the 78 were $168 complete as
I recall? The slip joint part alone was cheaper. I rather like the idea of
the double ujoint shaft eliminating the rag joint. May add a tad more
harshness to the steering, not sure.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I get the impression that Borgeson targets the racers and Flaming
>River targets the recreational offroaders. Don't know if that is
>true, or if it means anything.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:54:19 -0800
From: Clare Waterman-Storer scripps.edu>
Subject: Re: SanDiego JunkYards

Thanks for the help!

clare

Bill Deacon wrote:

> does anyone know of a good pick-your-own junk yard in the san diego
> area
> (north preferably)
> There are several Ecology Auto Wrecking locations in your area;
> Oceanside---2315 Carpenter Rd (760)757-7770
> San Diego---1180 Heritage Rd (619)409-9200
> Chula Vista---800 & 825 Energy Way (619) 409-9200
> I know Pick Your Part has a few locations in your area, but I don't have
> the addresses. Have Fun! Bill
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: text/x-vcard
-- File: waterman.vcf
-- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer



------------------------------

From: schu 7x.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:35:02 -0900
Subject: 390 ticking

FE guys,

I just installed a new cam, springs, and lifters in my truck, but now I
am getting a slight ticking noise. Last night I pulled the manifold to
check the lifters and cam and everything looks real good. The lifters
where perfect on the bottom and there was oil everywhere. I should also
note that the original pushrods where to long (I figure because of the
reground cam that was in it) and I ended up replacing all of the
pushrods with ones that where .040 shorter. I measured the preload on
the lifters and everything looks fine.

Anyone have any suggestions on other things to look for that could be
ticking... I can't figure out where it is coming from.

Oh, one last thing... I am thinking of putting up a web site dedicated
to ford FE engines, and am wondering how many people would be willing to
contrib info, or even use the site.

Thanks

schu

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 390 ticking
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:54:15 -0600

> I just installed a new cam, springs, and lifters in my truck, but now I
> am getting a slight ticking noise.

have you checked the piston to valve clearances, or made sure the cam was
mild enough to not even remotely cause this problem ?

Also I would check the valve springs, sometimes a stock spring won't be
enough for a high lift or radical cam.

> Oh, one last thing... I am thinking of putting up a web site dedicated
> to ford FE engines, and am wondering how many people would be willing to
> contrib info, or even use the site.
>

Geee ... twist my arm and I'll probably help out ... ouch. okay.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: schu 7x.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:24:02 -0900
Subject: Re: 390 ticking

Wish,


> have you checked the piston to valve clearances, or made sure the cam was
> mild enough to not even remotely cause this problem ?

yes, I checked it with the long pushrods and it was fine... so I imagine
it's rather good with the shorter pushrods. It sounds like only one
valve is ticking, and it comes and goes... it isn't there all the time.

>
> Also I would check the valve springs, sometimes a stock spring won't be
> enough for a high lift or radical cam.

I installed new springs that are matched to the cam.

>
> > Oh, one last thing... I am thinking of putting up a web site dedicated
> > to ford FE engines, and am wondering how many people would be willing to
> > contrib info, or even use the site.
> >
>
> Geee ... twist my arm and I'll probably help out ... ouch. okay.

ok, thanks... :)

>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>

schu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:07:51 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals

draco pacifier.com wrote:
> To my amazement,
> it is a '73 F-100 2WD.
> I told him I would hunt down a set of factory manuals for it.
>
When you find the manuals, please tell me where you found them and how
much they cost. I'm thinking of getting some for my '72.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:19:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel Koster yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: C-6 chatter


Guys,

While we're on the subject of C-6 trannies...

Anybody have a lead an earlier C-6 in the Coastal Georgia Area?

I'm fixin to swap out my T-98 for a C-6
...someday
...I hope.


Thanks,

Dan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:22:26 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: SHOP MANUAL SALE!!

Hey Boys!!

I got some shop manauls for ya'--

MINT 5 volume set for '73 - $150
MINT 5 volume set for '74 - $150 (with specs book)
Excellent 5 volume set for '77 - $150 (with specs book)
Excellent 5 volume set for '75 - $125 (with specs book)
Good 5 volume set for '70 - $100
Good 5 volume set for '70 - $100
Good 5 volume set for '72 - $100 (with owners manual)
Fair 4 volume set for '72 - $75
Poor 5 volume set for '71 - $50

MINT '71 Specs book - $20
----------------------------------------

Please privately e-mail me with your wants/needs.

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com

------------------------------

From: "Bob & Becky Elliott" ptsi.net>
Subject: Diesel into 79 F250
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:16:27 -0600

Has anyone tried, done, or thought hard about putting a pre computer diesel
into a 79 F250
2 wheel drive? Would it use the same mounts as a 460? Trans wouldn't matter
because I'd change that too. Any input will be helpful. With the cost of
gas, towing a camper, and 5 MPG, something
has to give. Any ideas on the year engine to use? Thanks, Bob


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: carparts.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:21:23 -0800

Has anyone tried carparts.com? I have several times and been really
pleased. A buddy hipped me to a coupon sale they're having...
Go to the main page http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.carparts.com
click on coupons, then enter this code: fourb002 and when you checkout, you
get 33% off your order!
Just ordered a set of name brand diamond plate running boards for my '77
E150 (FTE content) for $104 out the door (local guys wanted $199+ tax).
Not trying to spam the list, just saw a good deal and thought I'd pass it
along...

Rich


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:55:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Diesel into 79 F250
From: Jeff Simmons juno.com>

Bob, I've been thinking about doing that myself, I have a 68' 1-ton
duelly, I would like to put one of the new Power Stroke's in. I haven't
looked into it yet but, I believe you would
use the frame stands from donor truck, Radiator, and front coil springs,
I don't believe the electrical would be to tough. I'll interested to here
from someone who has done this also. Good luck.
Jeff in KC
jpsimford juno.com
On Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:16:27 -0600 "Bob & Becky Elliott"
ptsi.net> writes:
> Has anyone tried, done, or thought hard about putting a pre computer
> diesel
> into a 79 F250
> 2 wheel drive? Would it use the same mounts as a 460? Trans wouldn't
> matter
> because I'd change that too. Any input will be helpful. With the
> cost of
> gas, towing a camper, and 5 MPG, something
> has to give. Any ideas on the year engine to use? Thanks, Bob
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:46:38 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: SHOP MANUAL SALE!!


Forgot to mention-

These are all 100% original FORD TRUCK shop manuals that cover all light
duty and heavy duty pickups and bronco's, and are official ford
publications printed by Helm.

8-)

Vol #1 is Chassis
Vol #2 is Engine
Vol #3 & #4 is Body/Electrical (both in one volume)
Vol #5 is pre-delivery and maintenance

Thanks-

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com

At 06:22 PM 2/16/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey Boys!!
>
>I got some shop manauls for ya'--
>
>MINT 5 volume set for '73 - $150
>MINT 5 volume set for '74 - $150 (with specs book)
>Excellent 5 volume set for '77 - $150 (with specs book)
>Excellent 5 volume set for '75 - $125 (with specs book)
>Good 5 volume set for '70 - $100
>Good 5 volume set for '70 - $100
>Good 5 volume set for '72 - $100 (with owners manual)
>Fair 4 volume set for '72 - $75
>Poor 5 volume set for '71 - $50
>
>MINT '71 Specs book - $20
>----------------------------------------
>
>Please privately e-mail me with your wants/needs.
>
>Tony Marino
>redneck raex.com
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:36:49 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Price of a New Ford

Any of you all old enough, with your memory still intact, who can
remember what a new Ford, car or truck, sold for back around 1955? Or
any time back around then?

Or do you know of a website that would provide this kind of info.

I'm interested in comparing what I made when I was a kid with what I
make now in our wonderful New Millenium, in terms of buying power.

Also, does anyone know about ancient Ford history like this: It seems I
remember reading that ol' Henry made a splash back in the early thirties
by paying his factory workers $5 a day, and the price of a new Ford car
was $500. So a worker could buy a car with 100 days' work. Which maybe
compares pretty well with today? What do you think the average auto
worker makes, $20/hr?

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 390 ticking
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:39:44 -0500

Unfortunately, not all lifters are created equal. One of your new lifters
could be sticking or you could have a blocked push rod and the rocker itself
is not getting enough oil (not likely in a FE, I know :-)) I had some kind
of engine once that did that.....some had oil and some didn't.....can't
remember what I did to fix it or why it happened though. Anyway if the
contact point between the rocker and the valve is not getting oil it leaves
a space so that it will click however unlikely this may be :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary....


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