61-79-list Digest V2000 #8

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61-79-list Digest Tue, 15 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 008

In This Issue:
Main clearances
Re: FW: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Re: Steering U Joint
BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
san diego junk yards
Re: Choke Thermostats 101
BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Re: Differential Gearing.
Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Taco Bell and McDonalds
air conditioner
Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250
Re: Steering U Joint
Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250
Re: Differential Gearing.
Re: Differential Gearing.
Re: needle gun
Re: needle gun
Re: needle gun
Re: Main clearances
Steering U-Joint
Longbed score! + brake proportion valve price
Re: Steering U Joint
Re: Longbed score! + brake proportion valve price
Re: Differential Gearing.
Motorcraft choke
Re: Mail Problems
Re: Taco Bell and McDonalds
Re: Motorcraft choke
Steering Column Transplant
Howell Fuel Injection?
Re: Motorcraft choke
Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250
help needed on 400
shift lever for automatic loose
Re: Mail Problems
'79 full size 4-door sport utility
Aftermarket Steering Shafts
ford 4x4 in junk yard

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Main clearances
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:05:19 -0500

Ox writes: >>I am a bit concerned about the main clearance, as it
plasticgauged over .002 and spec is .0026 max. Rods all came in at
.0013-.0017.<<

Don't be overly concerned with that kind of clearance on the mains. I've
never built nor run the 351M/400 series motors, but I've ran many FOMOCO's
and I like the extra clearances on the mains. I always tried to get mine
as close to the Max factory spec's as I could, and my Fords have a very
good longevety record. Probably good for at least a couple hundred thousand
miles with good oil and regular oil changes. I've had worse luck with
tighter clearances than I have loose clearances.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:06:47 -0600

> > Brake systems rely strictly on pressure to operate and all components
are
> designed to regulate this, not flow.
>

Then why do we need a check valve in there ? that controls flow right?

Pressure and flow are directly related. If you increased pressure without
any flow then your brakes would never come on ... (ie locked caliper or
wheel cylinder) ... eventually something would give though and then you'd
have flow issues. As soon as the piston moves you've got flow ...

> >Uhoh, Gary. (evil grin) Flow and pressure are related. The

I'll second and third that one John :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:19:03 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: Steering U Joint

I posted a picture of my spicer steering U-joint conversion so others can
see what the parts look like.. 8-) Certainly overkill, but hey, for a
greasable joint and something that will last a lifetime on any steering
shaft, I'll take 'em! (notice their size relative to shaft thickness)

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.raex.com/~redneck/steeringjoint.jpg

Tony Marino
redneck

raex.com

(ps- the original onces come appart with clips that are on the inside of
the block that you have to bend and pull out)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:23:33 -0600
Subject: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>The reason the resivoir is larger for disk than the drum section is that the
>drums have a ratcheting mechanism that takes up the slack as the shoes
>wear. Self adjusting they ususally are engaged when the brakes are applied
>while the vehicle travels in reverse.

Thanks to Bill for relaying my posts. I think I've been cleared of all
charges.

Tom, you are on the right track here, but not totally accurate. To adjust
self adjusting drum brakes, you have to back up and apply the brakes firmly.
The momentum of the drum is transferred to the shoe assembly causing the
little ratcheting mechanism at the bottom to ratchet out one notch. If you
ever take them apart, one side is left hand thread and the other is right
hand thread. If you put them on the wrong side, the brakes won't self adjust
correctly. For most people this keeps them adjusted correctly. Shoes should
barely drag the drum if they are adjusted properly. Look at the slave
cylinder on the disc caliper. It is lots lots bigger than the one on the
drums. The front reservoir is bigger because discs require more fluid
displacement to operate. You are right about needing more fluid as the discs
wear down, but this is true for drums, too. Shoe linings just aren't as
thick as disc pads and there is only one thickness instead of two so you
don't notice it as much.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:19:01 -0800
From: Clare Waterman-Storer scripps.edu>
Subject: san diego junk yards

hi all-

does anyone know of a good pick-your-own junk yard in the san diego area
(north preferably)

thanks

clare

-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: text/x-vcard
-- File: waterman.vcf
-- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Choke Thermostats 101
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:28:09 -0500

Well, the acid test happened last night after work and the bronco passed
with flying colors except for the fast idle foot being a tad to large so
that it idles a tad to high for my taste. I can either change the shape of
the foot by precision grinding it (by hand on my bench grinder :-)) or
simply backing off the cap to make the choke "leaner".

I tried 8 v and it didn't heat up enough to affect the spring, at least not
in the time I was willing to watch it :-) I'm debating now whether to leave
it with no resisitor but it really runs nice with the choke staying on
longer. Even an "almost" warm engine needs a tad more richness to run
smooth and the timing I have now is just about perfect so I'll probably run
it like this a while. I believe I mentioned that the new cap is an autolite
replacement (or motorcraft) and has 21 ohms as it sits in the box and with
the .7 ohm ballast resistor it allows me to see 9.7 v at the terminal with
key on, meter grounded to the neg batt post when I first energize it. As it
heats up the voltage rises to near battery voltage when it's completely open
which is exactly what I would expect :-) It rises because I am not
measuring the drop across the heater but across the feed line which is being
shorted by the heater initially.

Molded into the cap is a heater of some kind which does as you say, increase
resistance as it heats up which is simply what electrical conductors do by
nature :-) Staked directly to the metal base of this heater is the bimetal
spring which may or may not be part of the circuit (the Holley unit may have
been shorted, not sure) and the heat is actually "conducted" by direct metal
to metal contact of the parts with the heating element. Many (perhaps all)
of these carbs also have a place to put a hot air tube if you like and what
this does is maintain the temp in the cap if you shut the engine off for a
while and come back out and re-start it. Under these conditions the
electric choke by itself will not know that the engine is still warm enough
that it needs no choke and will "over choke" the engine but with the hot air
tube, in just a matter of seconds the temp from the manifold will either
keep the spring extended or heat it again quickly to re-extend it long
before the electric choke would otherwise heat up enough to do it. I've
already experienced this problem and it is worth fixing, believe me, so the
tube is the next thing I will address. In summer this should not be much of
an issue since the carb will stay pretty warm for some time but in winter
there will be a constant cycling of the spring causing a lot of wasted fuel
and poor running for the first few minutes each time you restart.

I call it richness or leaness because it keeps the choke in operation past a
certain point which keeps the total mixture either richer or leaner relative
to the condition of the engine temp etc.. Since it changes the "cold"
spring pressure it also can affect the initial pull off position which
basically means the same thing, rich or lean for the first few seconds of
run.

Older systems used only the hot air to control the thermostat but in very
cold weather this would also extend the "choke on" time beyond what was
really needed so the electric, in conjunction with hot air is about as good
as it gets.......short of EFI that is :-) Hot soak keeps the tube and
spring chamber hot long after the engine is shut off so the electric portion
is out of the loop in that case, as it should be, and without having to do a
thing, inherently automatic.....with no need for a computer to run it, just
like using vacuum motors to do things at the proper time.....I love it :-)
Simple and effective :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>switch) and conveniently located. It has about 10 volts static and 11.5
>with the engine running.
>
>My question is (I haven't taken the choke apart yet) what is inside the
>mechanism? I assume it is a bimetalic spring and a heater. Doesn't
>loosening the screws and turning it (to the left I think) make
>it stay on
>longer? Are you adjusting the richness or just the time it
>takes to pull
>off?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:30:47 -0600
Subject: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>>That's just a volume thing though, so you've actually got some reserve after
>you press the pedal down ... the drum brakes systems still have the larger
>reservoir for the front, probably because the fronts have larger wheel
>cylinders so they need more ...

Actually, on early drum/drum dual mc systems the reservoirs were the same
size. On my 77 Eldorado with 4 wheel discs both reservoirs were the same
size: big like the disc reservoir on a drum/disc system. On a drum disc
system, the big reservoir in the back is supposed to drive the slaves to the
front discs and the little reservoir in the front drives the rear drums. If
some of you guys have swapped around, here's why your brakes are squirrelly.

>Yeah, but a master cylinder isn't sized by the reserve, its sized by the main
>piston ... so you don't want to get one just 'cause its got a bigger tank on
>it ...

Literally this is true, but usually the bigger tanks go with the bigger
pistons and higher volume displacement.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:46:06 -0600
Subject: Taco Bell and McDonalds
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

And I got bounced for having the word "digest" in my header. Sheeesh.

I foresee someone getting a visit from the list dad. :-)

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:02:37 -0600
Subject: air conditioner
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

My air conditioner has quit again, low on Freon 12. I am going to seriously
look at converting to a different compressor if possible, depending on where
the leak is. If anyone has ever switched to the A6 compressor like some
351m/400 LTDs have I'd like to hear from you. Or if there is someone who
happens to own both a truck and a car with the 351m/400 engine family, that
might help determine what needs to swap. Does anyone know if these cars used
a slightly different water pump? I know the air conditioner pump bracket and
the power steering pump bracket are different from what's on my truck. I
know where a set of these are in a bone yard that I can probably get for
about $20-$30. TIA.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:24:05 -0500

I wasn't directing that at you John, I just get tired of extended
discussions about peripheral and mis-contexted stuff, things "apparently"
getting twisted from what I actually said etc..... :-( They could be honest
misunderstandings but it still gets old :-(

I bought a new, OEM valve for $113 with tax from the dealer and it fixed the
problem but in the process I developed another one, an air leak which I have
not been able to locate so new lines are in the works and I fully expect
this to resolve virtually all my braking problems since all other components
are new or rebuilt and seem to be doing what they are supposed to.

This "Residual" valve thing cropped up after many months of continuously
bleeding brakes which were otherwise perfect in every way and I noticed that
I still had to pump like the dickens to get any pedal but once I got pedal
it stayed there (as long as I held my foot on the pedal) and was very firm
indicating there was little or no air in the system and they didn' t bleed
down indicating that the MC was working as intended so there was only one
thing left to investigate, the proportioning valve.

Thanks to all this discussion I have been able to reason on this and on what
I've seen and experienced and come up with what I believe to be the correct
understanding now and which I am personally satisfied with and which I have
attempted to share with the group but since I can't "prove" my reasoning I
will table this untill I have more "reliable" info to share :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Sorry if I hurt your feelings, Gary, didn't mean to. I'm in
>the middle of
>this because I don't know why my brakes work, but they do. But
>they don't
>work quite right.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:28:45 -0500

My guess is a big block pattern, wide ratio. There are only two ratio sets
I know of and three engine configurations, 335, 385 and FE. They are all
essentially the same except for the lincoln which had the 5 plate low gear
clutch pack.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I have a question that I hope is easy. I have a 78 F250 SuperCab Camper
>Special. What sub model of C6 came with these? Apparently
>there were three
>types available with corresponding numbers? There is a 460

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Steering U Joint
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:31:35 -0500

This looks like you got the whole thing, yokes and all?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I posted a picture of my spicer steering U-joint conversion so

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:33:45 -0500

Ok, I meant small block, not 335, sorry :-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I know of and three engine configurations, 335, 385 and FE.

------------------------------

From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:47:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Differential Gearing.

I would be interested in a calculation.

My set up is a 3.73 rear end with C6, Tire size 12.5X16.5X33

Thanks,

Rob G.

Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Differential Gearing.
Give us the tire size you plan to use and we can calculate the ratios to
maintain this rpm range. The formula is a tad long and I'm too brain dead
today to try to muster it up but I have it all set up in a spread sheet.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Differential Gearing.
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:06:24 -0500

You're getting 2324 at 60 by my calculations which is close to most stock
truck numbers back in the old days. Prior to 78 or there abouts the
thinking was to keep it a little higher than now days, about 2500 at 60 was
very common. To get 1900 you would need 3.05 and 1800 you would need 2.89:1
:-) My setup with 2.75 gears nets me 1958 rpm and I get about 12 mpg with a
rather poorly tuned 460 and it has plenty of gumption as well :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I would be interested in a calculation.
>
>My set up is a 3.73 rear end with C6, Tire size 12.5X16.5X33

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: needle gun
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:11:56 -0500

If you have an air compressor and an air chisel you can get an attachment
for $20 or buy the whole, specialized tool for about $69 and up. It is
basically an air chisel with 9 small needles or pins contained in a can
which keeps them close together but allows them to dance around over the
surface randomly as they vibrate. They will get into some pretty tight
corners and make very short work of built up road dirt mixed with rust which
has solidified on parts. I would not use it on sheet metal but anything
heavier should be fine if you are careful. On a truck frame you don't need
to worry at all they are made for this or the inside of the "C" on radius
arms etc... Absolutely the thing to have for cleaning up truck frames :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I have seen alot of references to a needle gun. What is that?
>Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:20:43 -0500
From: "Christopher J. Phillips" mail.med.upenn.edu>
Subject: Re: needle gun

I need some pictures of 79 super cab f150 club cab

At 2:11 PM -0500 2/15/2000, Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>If you have an air compressor and an air chisel you can get an attachment
>for $20 or buy the whole, specialized tool for about $69 and up. It is
>basically an air chisel with 9 small needles or pins contained in a can
>which keeps them close together but allows them to dance around over the
>surface randomly as they vibrate. They will get into some pretty tight
>corners and make very short work of built up road dirt mixed with rust which
>has solidified on parts. I would not use it on sheet metal but anything
>heavier should be fine if you are careful. On a truck frame you don't need
>to worry at all they are made for this or the inside of the "C" on radius
>arms etc... Absolutely the thing to have for cleaning up truck frames :-)
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
>>I have seen alot of references to a needle gun. What is that?
>>Joe
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.

Christopher J. Phillips (215) 573-5427 voice
Building Administrator (215) 898-6252 fax
University of Pennsylvania Medical Center
215 Blockley Hall
423 Guardian Drive
Philadelphia, PA 19104-6069

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:29:41 -0500
From: "Christopher J. Phillips" mail.med.upenn.edu>
Subject: Re: needle gun

I need some pictures of 79 super cab f150 club cab

At 2:11 PM -0500 2/15/2000, Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>If you have an air compressor and an air chisel you can get an attachment
>for $20 or buy the whole, specialized tool for about $69 and up. It is
>basically an air chisel with 9 small needles or pins contained in a can
>which keeps them close together but allows them to dance around over the
>surface randomly as they vibrate. They will get into some pretty tight
>corners and make very short work of built up road dirt mixed with rust which
>has solidified on parts. I would not use it on sheet metal but anything
>heavier should be fine if you are careful. On a truck frame you don't need
>to worry at all they are made for this or the inside of the "C" on radius
>arms etc... Absolutely the thing to have for cleaning up truck frames :-)
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
>>I have seen alot of references to a needle gun. What is that?
>>Joe
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
message.

Christopher J. Phillips (215) 573-5427 voice
Building Administrator (215) 898-6252 fax
University of Pennsylvania Medical Center
215 Blockley Hall
423 Guardian Drive
Philadelphia, PA 19104-6069

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:36:01 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Main clearances

am14

daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
>
> Ox writes: >>I am a bit concerned about the main clearance, as it
> plasticgauged over .002 and spec is .0026 max. Rods all came in at
> .0013-.0017.<<
>
> Don't be overly concerned with that kind of clearance on the mains. I've
> never built nor run the 351M/400 series motors, but I've ran many FOMOCO's
> and I like the extra clearances on the mains. I always tried to get mine
> as close to the Max factory spec's as I could, and my Fords have a very
> good longevety record. Probably good for at least a couple hundred thousand
> miles with good oil and regular oil changes. I've had worse luck with
> tighter clearances than I have loose clearances.
>

OK, thanks Azie, makes me feel a little better.

OX

------------------------------

From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:32:46 EST
Subject: Steering U-Joint

Gary and others,

Here are all the Spicer part numbers....

SP 10-4-431-SX
SP 10-4-13
SP 5-170X

I think the last one is the U-joint itself, and the others are the yolks. You
have to cut the old one off the steering shaft and slide the new one on. The
other yoke mates directly with the splined shaft coming out of the
firewall....

I don't know about any parts available to fix the other end of the
shaft....if worse comes to worse, one can always just buy a rag-joint setup
to replace the "slider" deal....

CJ

------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Longbed score! + brake proportion valve price
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:41:40 -0500

The junkyard up the street is crushing cars, and I finally saw the bed I
need for my truck - a longbed with the passenger side storage compartment
in pristine condition, and dual tank inlets on the drivers side with doors.
Plus it has chrome trim in excellent condition. The tailgate works, and
the bed overall has minimal rust with just the beginning of over the wheel
well rust which is still fixable. All for $100. I think I'll get the
drivers door and fender, too, since mine are dented.

Dealer said a proportioning valve was $125 + tax for my 78 F-150, since
I've replaced everything else in the brakes and they still lose fluid back
to front, I'll think I'll replace the proportioning valve while I've got
the bed off. (And see if the front tank will fit, any ideas? mine is a 4x4,
the tank is from a 4x2?)

Only problem is the bed is forest green with puke green insert. Should
look good with a yellow cab, eh? Guess it will be time for a repaint soon.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digiman

ibox.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:52:12 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: Steering U Joint

Sure did-- I lost my spicer numbers, but yes. Two yoke, and one greasable
universal, all from spicer, all under $50 bucks.

The yokes already are splined and keyed to fit perfectly on your shaft and
your steering column. all you have to do is beat the old yoke off the
shaft, clean it up, and slip this assy on there and it's perfect. ;-)

Tony Marino
redneck

raex.com

At 01:31 PM 2/15/00 -0500, you wrote:
>This looks like you got the whole thing, yokes and all?
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
>>I posted a picture of my spicer steering U-joint conversion so
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Longbed score! + brake proportion valve price
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:04:50 -0800

> The junkyard up the street is crushing cars, and I finally
> saw the bed I
> need for my truck - a longbed with the passenger side storage
> compartment
> in pristine condition, and dual tank inlets on the drivers
> side with doors.

> Only problem is the bed is forest green with puke green
> insert. Should
> look good with a yellow cab, eh? Guess it will be time for a
> repaint soon.
>

Dang, That's exactly what I want to find and it matches the original paint
on my truck. Had it repainted though so it wouldn't match anymore

Tom H

------------------------------

From: "Jim McCarty" hillconet.net>
Subject: Re: Differential Gearing.
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 19:11:50 -0600

Handy formulas at:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.4lo.com/

Jim McCarty

----- Original Message -----
From: "OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell" oaielectronics.com>
To: <61-79-list

ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 9:10 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Differential Gearing.

> Guys,
> I know this has probably been discussed before but I have a qeustion. My
> qeustion concerns rear end gearing and what is acceptable for a 460 motor.
> First what is the eqaution for figuring the RPM's an engine will see with
> different tire and gear combinations. Secondly what is the acceptable
range
> for a 460 to see in RPM's . What is the maximum that a person would want
the
> motor to turn etc.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 17:51:11 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Motorcraft choke

While we are on chokes here is another question.On my 84 w/460 and
Motorcraft/Holley carb.the choke opens fine,but the idle is giving me
fits.
Here is my morning drill BTW it is about 30 degrees F
Floor it once,hit key and it starts instantly:)and idles about 2000
I let it run a couple of minutes and gas it and high idle disengages and
it idles at about 1000.
I then let it warm up a little more and drive off.When I get to a
stoplight it is idling at about 1500.I gas it and it idles down to 1000.
It does this all the way to work.If it is about 50-60 degrees F on the
way home it idles fine.
What the heck is going on and why do I have 3 different idle speeds?
You should see the looks I get revin' my engine at every light:)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 21:21:18 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Mail Problems

At 09:13 AM 2/15/00 -0600, you wrote:
>I have sent several posts in the last couple of days and I get a
>confirmation back but I dont ever see the post again. Is there something
>that I am doing incorrectly.
>
>Paul
>65 F100 460 C6

In digest/live mode, the server doesn't echo your post to
you. It only sends a confirmation to let you know it
was received by the server.

Ken Payne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 21:22:21 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Taco Bell and McDonalds

At 11:46 AM 2/15/00 -0600, you wrote:
>And I got bounced for having the word "digest" in my header. Sheeesh.
>
>I foresee someone getting a visit from the list dad. :-)

I don't know if a list filter could ever be designed to
catch that sort of garbage!

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 18:51:27 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: Motorcraft choke

My truck acts exactly the same way, altho I'm not sure about the exact
rpms, but the temp outside has nothing to do with it. (The temp in SF
these days varies from 35 to 70.)

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K

> While we are on chokes here is another question.On my 84 w/460 and
> Motorcraft/Holley carb.the choke opens fine,but the idle is giving me
> fits.
> Here is my morning drill BTW it is about 30 degrees F
> Floor it once,hit key and it starts instantly:)and idles about 2000
> I let it run a couple of minutes and gas it and high idle disengages and
> it idles at about 1000.
> I then let it warm up a little more and drive off.When I get to a
> stoplight it is idling at about 1500.I gas it and it idles down to 1000.
> It does this all the way to work.If it is about 50-60 degrees F on the
> way home it idles fine.
> What the heck is going on and why do I have 3 different idle speeds?
> You should see the looks I get revin' my engine at every light:)

------------------------------

From: WhtsUpDoc2

aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 22:27:38 EST
Subject: Steering Column Transplant

Hello everybody! I've been on this list for awhile, but this is the first
time I had a real question to ask! Just to introduce myself, my name is
Jason, and I am very possibly one of the biggest Ford truck fans you will
ever meet! (although I'm sure I have some great competition on this list!)
My granddad says that I've praised Fords ever since I could talk. I'm a
ministry student at Oklahoma Baptist University. I've had several Fords that
have included those such as a '75 F-350 Crew Cab (I wish I would have kept!)
and a '95 Mustang GT (woohoo, great car!). Currently my baby is a '78 F-250
with a 460 and a C-6. I bought it from a farmer for $200.00. He had bought
it brand new, drove it only from home to work and back, and once to
California. In 1991, he parked it under a lean-to and bought a cheaper
half-ton V-6! It only had 74,000 orginal miles when I bought it. I put a
new brake master cylinder, alternator, fuel pump, belts, and a battery... ran
great. Well until I tried some stuff to burn out a clog in the manifold....
ate my rod bearings! An engine and transmission rebuild later it runs great.
Now I'm working on interior and body work. Anyway, I wanted to know if
anybody has tried to or knows whether or not I can implant a 90's steering
column in a '78. My dad broke mine! I knew I shouldn't have left my baby!
But I sure hope somebody can help me. Thanks

Jason
Yukon, Oklahoma
'78 F-250 Custom 460
WhtsUpDoc2

aol.com

------------------------------

From: Critterwoods

aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:14:52 EST
Subject: Howell Fuel Injection?

Has anyone installed a Howell Throttle Body Fuel Injection? Is it any good. I
have a 78 4x4, with a 460. I am trying to kick up mpg. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks, Critter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 22:30:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Motorcraft choke
From: Jeff Simmons juno.com>

You might try loosening up the tension on the choke coil, this might
help.
Jeff in KC

On Tue, 15 Feb 2000 17:51:11 -0800 scott ford-trucks.com> writes:
> While we are on chokes here is another question.On my 84 w/460 and
> Motorcraft/Holley carb.the choke opens fine,but the idle is giving
> me
> fits.
> Here is my morning drill BTW it is about 30 degrees F
> Floor it once,hit key and it starts instantly:)and idles about 2000
> I let it run a couple of minutes and gas it and high idle disengages
> and
> it idles at about 1000.
> I then let it warm up a little more and drive off.When I get to a
> stoplight it is idling at about 1500.I gas it and it idles down to
> 1000.
> It does this all the way to work.If it is about 50-60 degrees F on
> the
> way home it idles fine.
> What the heck is going on and why do I have 3 different idle speeds?
> You should see the looks I get revin' my engine at every light:)
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 01:08:55 EST
Subject: Re: Types of C6s in a 78 F250

i maybe late on this, but i have two 78 4x4 c6 trannies, one is out of the
f250 extended cab and the other out of the f150 reg cab. the 250 ext cab has
a longer tail shaft than the other one, i was about to put the short shaft c6
in the extended cab, but i realized it was different before hand.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 01:13:27 EST
Subject: help needed on 400

the 400 shortblock i bought for the f250 is missing the threaded part in the
block for the oil filter, and i can't get the one out of the junk engine, has
any one ever ran across this? how do you remove them?

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 01:19:28 EST
Subject: shift lever for automatic loose

the shift lever on the column is very loose, so i took it all apart, the
spring inside that keeps pressure on the lever was broke, does anybody know
of a spring that i can replace it with? also the pointer is missing for the
P R N D 2 1 window, where can i get one of those? i'll be on the hunt for
these pcs tomorrow, if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

thanks, jeff grant

------------------------------

From: prozell

oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: Mail Problems
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 07:37:03 -0600

Ken,
If I remove myself from the digest mode will this cure the problem.
Originally I was in digest but couldn't handel receiving the mail after most
of the discussions had allready happened.

Paul
65 F100 460 C6.

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: '79 full size 4-door sport utility
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 05:59:23 -0800 (PST)

I was in Guadalajara, Mexico the last week. The last time I was
there I thought I saw a full size Ford sport utility like a
Suburban. I kept watching for another one and decided I was
seeing things.

This time I saw another one. It had a '78-79 grille, 4 doors,
a solid roof all the way back, and looked absolutely factory.
I didn't notice if it was 4WD, or if it had a tailgate or doors
in the back. We were riding in a car so I only saw it for a
moment. I did notice the indent for the side moulding ran all
the way to the back. The guy I was working with said he used to
know someone who had one.

The last time I saw him he mentioned he was going to get a pickup
When I got there he shows me his "new" truck. To my amazement,
it is a '73 F-100 2WD. I took some pictures of it which I will
put up on my webpage after I get the film developed. He says it
will be painted and have new wheels and tires in a few months.
I told him I would hunt down a set of factory manuals for it.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com....

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