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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:50:04 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:50:04 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #74 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 19 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 074 In This Issue: Re: (WHOOPS) 390(not)351 ('73) cam replacement Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? Re: 77 F100 Questions Re: headers leaking on a 351M direct oil pressure gage Re: direct oil pressure gage Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? Re: direct oil pressure gage auto tranny transfer case adapters Re: direct oil pressure gage Re: 77 F100 Questions Re: 77 Dashboard Help Re: auto tranny transfer case adapters Dieseling Adj rockers FE Re: Dieseling pwr-steer conversion Re: Performance Radiator Re: Performance Radiator Re: Performance Radiator Re: headers leaking on a 351M 1964 - Should I buy it? FE rocker shaft questions Re: 460 Pilot Bearing Re: 460 Pilot Bearing Sealing Headers Re: 460 Pilot Bearing Re: 77 F100 Questions Another new list member Re: Performance Radiator 78 4x4 engine swap Re: pwr-steer conversion Engine swap Re: 78 4x4 engine swap Re: 77 F100 Questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Matt Schu" Subject: Re: (WHOOPS) 390(not)351 ('73) cam replacement Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 08:28:05 AKDT Shawn, I have a crane HMV-272-2 HYD.MAX VELOCITY cam shaft. I like it, but it isn't the best low end cam. It still has plenty of power off idle, but when you hit about 2000 RPM it really pushes my truck hard. What kind of mileage you get with it depends on your intake, carb, and exhaust. I have a stock 4bbl carb with stock intake and exhaust and I can get 12 or so when I'm not into it. On my web site there is a link to the cam card and a wav file of my truck. schu http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:31:19 -0500 Subject: Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? From: "John LaGrone" > Nope, by a hose. Ox, I said I was confused. Thanks for straightening me out. I didn't think of the dealer installed air, that's a good point. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:39:18 -0500 Subject: Re: 77 F100 Questions From: "John LaGrone" > Is it just me, or does driving around with this much gas sound crazy? Id > love the driving range, but my luck, Id spend the 250 bucks to fill it all up > and some nut would T-bone me, setting me, my truck, and my 250 dollars in gas > on fire! > > Darrell Well, I wouldn't want to be sitting on that much gas either let alone pay for it. He had it set up this way because he pulled the trailer to Alaska and back. I understand that gas stations are few and far between on the Alcan Highway. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: headers leaking on a 351M Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:54:06 -0400 I have heard a rumor that soaking the gaskets in soapy water(dish washing liquid soap) & then installing them will help this situation.I have never had this problem as of yet so I have never had to try it myself. -----Original Message----- From: Matt Schu To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 1:26 AM Subject: [61-79-list] headers leaking on a 351M >M guys, > >I have a friend that has a 351M with full length headers in his truck, and >he can't get them to seal against the head. He changes the gasket and it >seems that the problem goes away for a day or so, but then it starts leaking >again. We have looked for copper gaskets for the M block be we can't find >any.... > >Any suggestions? > >schu >______________________________________________________ > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:17 -0400 From: BECKER-JEFFREY Subject: direct oil pressure gage --- Received from MACDGA.JB1882H 301-790-5580 00-04-19 13:17 I'm sure some of you guys have used the cheapie "Made In Taiwan" gage sets sold in various auto parts stores and catalogs. These were in my truck when I bought it and am wondering what your thoughts are on reliability and accuracy. In particular, the OIL PRESSURE GAGE. This is a direct hook-up to the engine via a small diameter translucent plastic tube. I can see oil droplets in it. Should there be air pockets in it? Does this line need to be bled first to yield a proper reading? If so, how is this done? The temperature gage is connected to the top of the intake manifold via a stiff wire which I am assuming is actually a thermocouple. I am looking for a manifold vacuum gage to go with these two so that I would have three direct readings of engine performance. Also, why all the emphasis on ammeters? Isn't a voltmeter a better indicator of impending charging system doom? Thanks for the read, Jeff (yes, my F100 did originally have air since the heater box in the engine compartment has stubs of "in" and "out" Freon lines sticking out of its inboard side. I have an old York compressor from an AMC and may eventually cobble the system back together with junkyard pieces...that is if I can steal some R-12 from somewhere) ---- 00-04-19 13:17 ---- Sent to --------------------------- -> 61-79-list(a)ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:15:49 -0500 Subject: Re: direct oil pressure gage From: "John LaGrone" > This is a direct hook-up to the engine via a small diameter > translucent plastic tube. I can see oil droplets in it. Should > there be air pockets in it? Does this line need to be bled first > to yield a proper reading? I had one of those once on a bowtie pu. It bled all over my foot. I swore to never have one like that again. If memory serves me, you don't have to bleed it, but if the plastic is old and split you will lose pressure to the gauge as well as crankcase oil. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:23:51 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? John LaGrone wrote: > > > Nope, by a hose. > > Ox, I said I was confused. Thanks for straightening me out. I didn't think > of the dealer installed air, that's a good point. > No problem, only reason I know for sure is I just yanked all that crap out of that truck 3 days ago. It's still real fresh, LOL!!! OX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:34:27 -0500 Subject: Re: 77 F100 AC vents ??? From: "John LaGrone" > No problem, only reason I know for sure is I just yanked all that crap > out of that truck 3 days ago. It's still real fresh, LOL!!! > > OX I hear that! Something I used to have to take apart regularly was fed by molded duct work. A snap to take apart but it was a dog to get everything lined up to put it back together. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 17:47:13 GMT Subject: Re: direct oil pressure gage > In particular, the OIL >PRESSURE GAGE. > I don't really know for accuracy, as long as things aren't bent badly there shouldn't be any issues. I can't really think of anything that really matters if its 100% accurate anyway (if you only have a pound of oil pressure is that any better than 0 on a gauge ?). >This is a direct hook-up to the engine via a small diameter >translucent plastic tube. I can see oil droplets in it. Should >there be air pockets in it? Does this line need to be bled first >to yield a proper reading? I've always seen them with air pockets in them ... if you were to not have any at all I think the gauge would pulse a bit as the pump turned because of the way the pump works, leaving the air in there won't change the actual pressure but will cusion the pulses ... gas is compressible, but since its contained on all sides, with a constant pressure put on the end of it it will cause the reading to be fairly accurate ... >I am looking for a manifold vacuum gage to go with these two so >that I would have three direct readings of engine performance. > Just go to your local autoparts store, they should have one ... if not, I think I saw one at the Car Quest warehouse, so I'd guess their stores carry them. Can't think of any brands off the top of my head ... motor minder, that's what they're sometimes called! Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 15:06:17 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: auto tranny transfer case adapters I have a 79 Bronco and 79 F250 C-6/NP205 combos (both married). The F250 TC adapter is about half the size of the Bronco. I have to assume the outpout shaft on the F250 trans is also half the length. What was the reason for this. I was planning on using the F250 trans in the bronc, but I guess that idea is out unless I mod both driveshafts. OX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 15:02:51 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: Re: direct oil pressure gage Just to throw in my opinion on this: I've run Autometer Sport Comp, Pro Comp, and UltraLite guages (full sets on all three in all of my trucks), both mechanical, and electric versions, (including oil pressure with bubbles of air in line that go away as soon as you start the motor) and I haven't had a single problem with ANY of them. Pick up your summit racing catalog. For a few extra bucks, they go a long way as far as durability and design. I love 'em, and I watch my guages vibrate and get water and dirt all over them and in them, and they still work great and accurately. 8-) Tony Marino redneck raex.com At 05:47 PM 4/19/00 GMT, you wrote: >> In particular, the OIL >>PRESSURE GAGE. >> > >I don't really know for accuracy, as long as things aren't bent badly there >shouldn't be any issues. I can't really think of anything that really matters >if its 100% accurate anyway (if you only have a pound of oil pressure is that >any better than 0 on a gauge ?). > >>This is a direct hook-up to the engine via a small diameter >>translucent plastic tube. I can see oil droplets in it. Should >>there be air pockets in it? Does this line need to be bled first >>to yield a proper reading? > >I've always seen them with air pockets in them ... if you were to not have any >at all I think the gauge would pulse a bit as the pump turned because of the >way the pump works, leaving the air in there won't change the actual pressure >but will cusion the pulses ... gas is compressible, but since its contained >on all sides, with a constant pressure put on the end of it it will cause the >reading to be fairly accurate ... > >>I am looking for a manifold vacuum gage to go with these two so >>that I would have three direct readings of engine performance. >> > >Just go to your local autoparts store, they should have one ... if not, I think >I saw one at the Car Quest warehouse, so I'd guess their stores carry them. > Can't think of any brands off the top of my head ... motor minder, that's what >they're sometimes called! > > >Just my $.02 >wish > >96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L >73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > >Ford Truck Enthusiasts >http://www.ford-trucks.com >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > > ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:28:00 GMT Subject: Re: 77 F100 Questions >Hey guys, I am new to the list also. I have a '77 F150 4X4 SWB with a 351M, >4spd. I also have the dual tank option, but my fuel supply remains on the >tank that I switch it to. If I select main then it remains on main. > This is the norm, the one John was talking about was something someone else had installed themselves ... no idea why you'd do it that way really, but I've heard of others doing similar stuff (like an aux tank that gravity feeds to the main tank!) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:36:32 GMT Subject: Re: 77 Dashboard Help >Thanks to everyone for the help I received in fixing the instrument cluster problems in my 77 F250 4x4. I replaced the whole unit with one from a '79 Bronco and still no working fuel guage, but what the heck, everything else works like a gem; even the Ammeter!!! Another project for another day :) Fighting fuel gauges on recently purchased vehicles is a favorite past time around here ... I have had to fix the one on the truck about 7 times ... the first 5 were because the truck is wired for 2 tanks but only has one ... and when you plug the spare wire onto the transfer case it grounds the gauge out and reads full all the time ... To check the gauge I'd start by crawling under the truck and finding the sending unit on top of the gas tank ... unplug this and look inside ... there should be a plug or 2 in there. Ground this against a bolt or something on the chassis (be sure its a good ground) ... then go turn the key on and look at the gauge, if it reads full then the gauge itself is okay ... I'd check the terminals then to be sure they had a good connection. If it doesn't move at all, start checking wiring and such to see if there are any bare spots or cuts. If all this looks good, then try replacing the gauge itself (sounds like you've already done that) ... If all the connections are good and clean, then the problem is either the sending unit or the float is on the bottom of the tank... if you hear something rattling around, then its probably a sunk float and you'll need a new one, or to dry the one you've got out and solder it up. The sending unit isn't hard to replace, except for the whole drop the tank step ... then there's a locking ring that you can tap to unscrew (actually just a quarter turn lock maneuver like the gas cap itself) ... then it should all slide out through the hole in the top ... anyway that might be more than you wnated to know... be sure you don't have much gas in the tank when you attempt that, its HEAVY (7lbs/gallon + tank weight adds up fast!) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:47:22 GMT Subject: Re: auto tranny transfer case adapters >I have a 79 Bronco and 79 F250 C-6/NP205 combos (both married). The >F250 TC adapter is about half the size of the Bronco. I have to assume >the outpout shaft on the F250 trans is also half the length. What was >the reason for this. I would have to guess that they were afraid of drive shaft lengths is why they put the extra extension on there, but I can't really believe that the front drive shaft would be any shorter on a bronco than on an F250 since they're essentially the same from the grille to the back of the front door right? But I wonder if the shorter wheelbase would be more prone to a torque steer of some sort if the drive shafts are vastly different lenghts? Also I'd think you're more likely to lift a bronco than a 250, so the equal length drive shafts (or closer to equal) would make it easier to lift ... Just a thought and Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Dieseling Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:34:28 -0400 Matt writes: >>I am having problems with the timing in my truck. When I turn the distributor one way (don't remember which way) my truck pings like crazy, when I turn it the other direction, it diesels when I turn it off. Any suggestions on how to fix it?<< If it is idleing too fast it will do this.. Try slowing it down to around 700rpms idle and see what happens...This is not necessarily FE related. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Adj rockers FE Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:38:39 -0400 Matt writes: >>I want to change my rockers to the adjustable type on my 390. Can I just purchase factory replacement adjustable type rockers and use them on my non-adjustable type shaft? In one of my catalogs it lists two different part numbers for the shafts, anyone know why? Anyone recommend a source for this, I know crane has a kit to convert the rockers.<< I believe the adjustable shafts have different holes in them for oiling than the non adjustables. There is a difference someplace in the shafts and I think that is it. You'll need the pushrods also. They are cupped on the top end instead or the "balled" type for non adjustables. The "ball" being on the bottom of the adjuster screw in the rocker. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: "Keith Kubiak" <55fordf100 home.com> Subject: Re: Dieseling Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:47:29 -0700 The pinging may also be caused by carbon build up in your cylinders. I have had success with running a product from GM called Auto Tune Up/Conditioner in a can. You pour 3/4 of it down the carb with the engine running. Then stall the engine and pour in the remaining 1/4 can. Let it sit for 15 minutes and then start the engine. Lots of smoke will come out your tail pipe. Too much carbon build up in the cylinders increases your compression and then your vehicle will ping on the low octane gas. It then makes it hard to time because you start timing it where it diesels in order to stop the pinging. It has worked for me on a couple of motors. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 1:34 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Dieseling > Matt writes: >>I am having problems with the timing in my truck. When I > turn the > distributor one way (don't remember which way) my truck pings like crazy, > when I turn it the other direction, it diesels when I turn it off. > > Any suggestions on how to fix it?<< > > If it is idleing too fast it will do this.. Try slowing it down to around > 700rpms idle and see what happens...This is not necessarily FE related. > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:21:26 -0700 Subject: pwr-steer conversion From: "George E. Pauline" hello all In reference to a 62 f100 4x4, other than a ford 600 series steering set up, can anyone out there reccomend a junk yard alternative? getting too da.. old to wrestle those 35 incher's! amador1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 17:36:00 -0400 From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis Subject: Re: Performance Radiator Group, hows this for a deal..Here in Pa/Nj we have an auto parts place called Advanced Auto Parts(was Parts America owned by Sears once) anyway they always claim to have most parts in stock, So I went in with I need a radiator for a 68 F-100 4x4 390 truck and Low and behold they had it on the shelf!!!ANd the kicker is its a 3 row Modine for a price I couldnt Believe $109.00 ..they had to pick me up off the floor...Is this a good price??I think so.. joe ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:53:35 GMT Subject: Re: Performance Radiator >68 >F-100 4x4 390 truck and Low and behold they had it on the shelf!!!ANd the >kicker >is its a 3 row Modine for a price I couldnt Believe $109.00 .. Seems like the one for my truck was $240 or so ... its probably the same one now that I think about it ... but then people out here drive them til they rust out, then put a 2wd body on it and drive it some more ... so they charge wonderful prices for things like radiators ... something about farmers idling through fields with hay racks causes those old motors to run a bit warm ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" Subject: Re: Performance Radiator Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 18:21:54 -0400 We have the same store here in NC. I just bought a 4 row Modine with the tranny cooler for $199. It should be here Thurs. I looked around for a while and most other places were anywhere between $220 to $250 for the same radiator. There are two radiators listed for a '68. One is relatively cheap $199 or so and the other is around $350. If I remember correctly, the part numbers were 2302 and 2304. The 2302 had a smaller core than the 2304. Wish, depending on which radiator you needed you may have gotten a deal. -Ted -----Original Message----- From: wish To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 4:53 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Performance Radiator >>68 >>F-100 4x4 390 truck and Low and behold they had it on the shelf!!!ANd the >>kicker >>is its a 3 row Modine for a price I couldnt Believe $109.00 .. > >Seems like the one for my truck was $240 or so ... its probably the same one >now that I think about it ... but then people out here drive them til they rust >out, then put a 2wd body on it and drive it some more ... so they charge wonderful >prices for things like radiators ... something about farmers idling through >fields with hay racks causes those old motors to run a bit warm ... > >Just my $.02 >wish > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:55:27 -0700 From: mclough page.az.net (Michael Clough) Subject: Re: headers leaking on a 351M get a gasket set from napa that is made from Nitroseal by Victor. I used them on my 400 rebuild with Hedman headers and have yet to have a leak. My machinist recommended them to me. I think the napa # is 95081SJ. These exhaust gaskets are very similar to the ones that mercruiser uses now and I can tell you from experience that they are way easier to get off than standard paper ones. They just scrape right off. You don't even have to get out the wire wheel. Hope that helps, mike ------------------------------ From: "Robert Werner" Subject: 1964 - Should I buy it? Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 01:12:21 +0100 A buddy of mine has a 64 1 ton 2 wheel drive dually (3 wheels on the rear axle, hmmm) w/ a 292 and a 3 speed. He bought it for 175 bucks last fall, go it running, then parked it out back. I'm considering buying it, but I was just wondering what you guys out there thought. It'll need some rust repair on the cab, and there's no bed, but since I won't have it on the road for awhile, that's no problem, I can always manufacture some flatbed or something. I've thought about maybe just putting add-a-leafs in just to pick her up a tiny bit, not much. Maybe someday after I hit the lotto or something I'll convert her to 4x4, but that's only if I get real bored. Also, how hard would it be to put a 390 in there? My grandfather worked for Ford, and that, he said was one of Ford's best engines. Thanks, Robert ------------------------------ From: ballingr bootheel.net Subject: FE rocker shaft questions Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 19:15:30 -0500 FE guys, I want to change my rockers to the adjustable type on my 390. Can I just purchase factory replacement adjustable type rockers and use them on my non-adjustable type shaft? In one of my catalogs it lists two different part numbers for the shafts, anyone know why? Anyone recommend a source for this, I know crane has a kit to convert the rockers. >>>>>>> What I have are Federal-Mogul 1.76 adjustable stock type rockers. You have to get solid-lifter shafts and ball and cup pushrods. Here are the part numbers: SEA/RS720 Rocker Shaft. Solid-lifter style, 2 required. List $28.78 each. SEA/R821 Rocker Arm. Adjustable 1.76 ratio, 16 required. List $14.32 each. SEA/RP3230R Pushrod. Ball and cup style, 16 required. List $11.94 each. If you are going to rev hard, you may want to consider end supports available from Dove Performance parts , Part Number 82106 $160 kit and Spacers, Part Number 82115 $30 kit to take the place of the springs on your rocker shafts that tend to let your rockers walk around. I don't have the end stands, if I break a shaft I'll get them. Another modification I've made is to put my stock aluminum rocker stands on the bandsaw and cut an open slot in one side to make them clamp the shaft better. Do this at your own risk, though, and be careful to not take any more away than you have to. It kills vibration. I also place a #90 jet out of a Holley under the rocker stands that supply oil to the shafts to restrict the oil. Just press them in and install the shafts. Be careful when you disassemble though to make sure they don't fall somewhere bad when you lift the stand. That's all I have to say about that. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: 460 Pilot Bearing Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:48:54 -0400 what i have done a few times on bushings that are ALMOST the right size but too tight to install into the crank is freeze them in DRI ICE WORKED FOR ME GORDON ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 22:00:31 EDT Subject: Re: 460 Pilot Bearing < WORKED FOR ME GORDON>> Great idea, but what bushing did you start with? Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" ------------------------------ From: "Chris Samuel" Subject: Sealing Headers Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 19:45:24 -0700 FWIW, here are 10 tips that I have found over the years of building and using headers on everything from Racing 4 Cylinders to Diesels. First. Buy Quality Headers! You can easily tell quality, even without actually seeing the headers; though it do help to see em. The Flange(s), the one that is bolted to the head will be 5/16" thick minimum. If it is any thinner pass em up! Look thick gage tubing (14/16Ga.). Second. Most headers are welded to the Flange(s) from the head side creating a kind of "O"ring around the port. This must be FLAT and the same height on every port. If your having problems look at this ring carefully and see if it is low in the area that leaks. If it is you have 3 choices: File it flat if possible, Weld it up and then file it flat, or replace the header! Third. The tubes should be "Brazed" to the flange on the outside with a nice smooth radius. This will increase both the sealing and the life of the header. You can do this yourself, but you must bolt the flange to a head while it is being done. Most machine shops will practically give you an otherwise junk head if you are a customer and tell em what you want it for, some will even take it back when your done! I have found that sand blasting the area helps immensely with the brazing. Make sure that the bolts sit flat after doing this. Fourth. Stainless steel headers will out live mild steel 10 to 1. and cost 10 times more! The flanges on Stainless steel headers if one piece must be mild steel if you want them to seal in the long run. Fifth. As mentioned if you are experiencing sealing problems soak the fiber gaskets in water before installing. If you really cant get them sealed soak two gaskets overnight and stack em, then pull the bolts down snug and fire the engine. Get it warmed up and shut it down. When it is stone cold and not before tighten the bolts back up. Then check the bolts every day for a week. If this don't do it, you need to rework or replace the headers. Sixth. Never over tighten the header bolts! They only need to be tight enough to not back out. If you over tighten the bolts and you have thin header flanges you will bend the flange(s). Once this happens you will not seal em and have to rework or replace em. Don't use never-seize on header bolts. Most never-seize compounds cant take that kind of heat. Use Calcium Carbonate instead. Yep dipping your bolts in antacid is a sure fire way to prevent heartburn later when the bolt is stuck in the head! Seventh. The reason gaskets fail is heat not pressure. If your engine is out of tune it can generate excessive temperatures in the exhaust system. Cast iron manifolds can tolerate this heat slightly better due to their greater mass. But, even Cast iron will warp and crack! If the header is in good shape and your failing gaskets check you timing and mixture settings chances are their off. Eighth. Do not use Lock-Washers on the head flange. They wont work in the long run and will chew up the header. The Lock-Washer is made out of a heat treated steel that it designed to dig in and resist turning by being a spring. If you repeatedly heat and cool a lock washer it relaxes and no longer acts like a spring; the second that the lock washer relaxes the bolt will be loose! The amount of torque required to properly set the lock washer is often higher then the bolts should be tightened to. Safety wire, Stage-8, or just check em once in a while. Ninth. Flange bolts should be Grade 8. Grade 5 will stretch real fast and you will leak. If you remove the flange bolts and they have been in use more then a year, replace em. Tenth. Fix all leaks as fast as you can. A leak will locally heat the flange and can erode it making it difficult to ever get it to reseal. Later. Muel ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: 460 Pilot Bearing Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 00:31:59 -0400 what i did was find a bushing just close enough to ALMOST fit then freeze it and install it gordon > > > < > too tight to install into the crank is freeze them in DRI ICE > WORKED FOR ME > GORDON>> > > > Great idea, but what bushing did you start with? > Darrell Duggan > 74 F-350 "Tweety" > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. > > ------------------------------ From: "Scott Jensen" Subject: Re: 77 F100 Questions Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 22:48:59 -0700 < love the driving range, but my luck, Id spend the 250 bucks to fill it all up and some nut would T-bone me, setting me, my truck, and my 250 dollars in gas on fire! Darrell>> Gee Darrell, with that capacity you could have filled up 10 months ago for 150 bucks and the few gallons you had left would have hardly sputtered.:) ------------------------------ From: "MARTY COLMAN" Subject: Another new list member Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 07:04:43 PDT Hi guys, I thought that I would introduce myself too. I'm Marty from South Dakota, I was lurking on the list about 7-8 months ago, but had to stop to change jobs, but I'm glad to be back. This is the most helpful group I've found. My pride and joy is my '73 F100 2wd with a 390. I have added chrome rims, chrome airgate, lighted running boards, cab lights, '79 grill and bumper, Edelbrock 4v. The next big task is body work and paint, but that will have to wait for the piggy bank to grow. It's good to be back, I hope I can add something usefull to the list, I know I will get alot from it. Marty ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: L7514 aol.comDate: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:23:48 EDT Subject: Re: Performance Radiator They don't have any for a "78 f-100 Ranger 302 auto with a/c. They will tell you that they do, but don't be fooled, take your old one down there & compare. Same thing at Auto Zone. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:43:34 -0500 From: Bruce Montcombroux Subject: 78 4x4 engine swap Thanks for all the response on my front end question...this list is great ain't it? Next question..will a 300 I6 fit on the NP 435 4spd? The truck currently has a dead 390..I have a live 300... Thanks tons Bruce 65 Mercury 240 I6 P/U ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 08:57:05 -0700 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: pwr-steer conversion >hello all >In reference to a 62 f100 4x4, other than a ford 600 series steering set up, >can anyone out there reccomend a junk yard alternative? getting too da.. old >to wrestle those 35 incher's! > amador1 Well I can relate with my 63 but I had a bit of a different start. The PO installed a power steering box off a Chevy 4x4 which mounted outside the frame rail. To perform the modification he had to cut a hole in the frame rail under the box, not good. There was a little rubbing on the pitman arm and reduced turning radius to the right but not too bad. That was until the steering arm bolt on the top of the knuckle decided to continue to break over and over again. This was with 33". So in came a 78 3/4 ton axle and 35". Cured the busted bolt but now I couldn't steer to the right worth a damn. Now all the extra stress on the hole under the box was getting too much so off it all came. My choices were to go with a crossover steering setup using 78-9 1/2 4x4 parts. The crossover design might work better with my total lift down the road to fit 36-38" tires. Second choice was to go with a 78-9 steering box from a 3/4 ton 4x4. I could keep the front to rear steering setup and have the box mounted inside the frame rail or use a 2 wheel drive box conversion to accomplish the same thing. I chose the crossover steering setup. I was looking for a softer front suspension rather than the custom springs that were rather stiff even with a winch and bumper on the front so going with the crossover steering, coil suspension similar to the 1/2 ton made sense to me. For you it might make more sense to go with the 2 wheel drive box conversion ( less expensive than 3/4 ton 4x4 box) as several other members of the list can attest to. My little steering fix has turned in to a multi year completely torn off the front end, changed my mind, building custom radius arm, thinking about going with Air springs, should I use the 3/4 ton axle or use a 1/2 ton axle with 3/4 ton parts, what the hell do I do now project. My advise is plan ahead and plan ahead some more. I thought I planned ahead but not enough it seems :( Which ever box you choose make sure your steering arm on the knuckle is in good shape. The power steering put more force on the arm than it was designed for and with the extra tire weight and traction of larger wheel & tire combos -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com43 GPW 63 F-100 4x4 77 F250 99 Contour ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 11:53:43 -0400 From: Tony Marino Subject: Engine swap You'll have to swap bellhousings to a smallblock np435. They aren't hard to come by in junkyards and usually go for $50 bucks a pop around here.. 8-) You'll also need to move your motor stacions, (we are talking about the '78 4x4 right? wait, no 390's in '78... no 390's in 4x4's..... Are we talking 4x4 or 2x4???) I'm not sure on the 2 wheel drives, but the 4x4's are the same and just get relocated 2.5 inches into predrilled holes in the frame. I would think 2x4's would work the same way. I have heard swapping sides with the 2 wheel drive stancions is how you do a 300 - FE swap. Throttle linkage is also an issue (get a lockar cable system from summit for $25 bucks), along with a neat trick on how you can run the 360 radiator on the 300. (can you tell I've done this swap?) There are a lot of little simple things that have to be taken into consideration, but no big obstacle in your way except for that bellhousing really. 8-) Tony Marino redneck raex.comAt 10:43 AM 4/20/00 -0500, you wrote: >Thanks for all the response on my front end question...this list is great >ain't it? > >Next question..will a 300 I6 fit on the NP 435 4spd? The truck currently has >a dead 390..I have a live 300... > >Thanks tons >Bruce >65 Mercury 240 I6 P/U > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 09:00:53 -0700 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: 78 4x4 engine swap >Thanks for all the response on my front end question...this list is great >ain't it? > >Next question..will a 300 I6 fit on the NP 435 4spd? The truck currently has >a dead 390..I have a live 300... > >Thanks tons >Bruce With the right bell housing. You will not be able to use the 390 bell housing with the 300 six. A small block bell housing should be an easy find in the junk yard. laters -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com43 GPW 63 F-100 4x4 77 F250 99 Contour ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.comDate: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 12:49:59 EDT Subject: Re: 77 F100 Questions In a message dated 4/19/00 10:52:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sjensensr worldnet.att.net writes:<< Gee Darrell, with that capacity you could have filled up 10 months ago for 150 bucks and the few gallons you had left would have hardly sputtered.:) >> I doubt that, Ive got a thirsty 460 and a lead foot, maybe 2 weeks, but nowhere near 10 months! Darrell ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #74 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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