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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 18 Apr 2000 17:18:00 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 17:18:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #72
Precedence: bulk

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 17 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 072

In This Issue:
Re: headliner
FE intake/problem solved/great service
Re: FE intake/problem solved/great service
Re: World of Wheels
Re: T-Shirts
Re: tilt steering
Re: World Ford Challenge
pigeon forge
Re: Farm and Ranch Special
Re: pigeon forge
Re: Break In Oil
Speaking of Oil...
Using vacuum to set timing...
Re: Using vacuum to set timing...
Re: Break In Oil
breakin oil
Humbling experiences
Re: rear axle decoding
460 Pilot Bearing
EGR info
Re: 1977 F100 questions
Re: tilt steering
Re: tilting suspension
72 460 hp?
78 4x4
351 ('73) cam replacement
Edlebrock heads
Re: breakin oil
460 horsepower
Performance Radiator
Re: 72 460 hp?
Re: 351 ('73) cam replacement
Re: 78 4x4
Re: pigeon forge
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Re: pigeon forge
trouble while towing
Re: trouble while towing
Re: trouble while towing
Re: pigeon forge
For Sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:17:44 -0500
From: Ron Martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: headliner

Also check with Obsolete Ford Parts Inc. This is in Oklahoma City, they
list the headliner in the 1999 cata for 84.95. If this not too pricey.
They have a web site

William Whited wrote:

> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.longmotor.com/fordcats.html
>
> Great site with lots of hard to find pieces.
>
> William Whited
> 74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
> 77 F150 Custom 460
> El Paso, TX
> Semper Fi
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:55:43 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FE intake/problem solved/great service

> >I plan on installing a Edlebrock 600 cfm 4bbl,
> >performer intake manifold, timing chain and gears, and of the associated
> >chrome.

I just put a Performer on my 428(can't tell it from a 360 either).
I would recommend getting the bolt set from Edelbrock for the
intake.The
stock ones were not quite the right length for mine and Edelbrock bolts
have a 3/8" head which makes torquing them down easier.
You also need to check out the "FEs that bend pushrods"article in the
FTE tech.articles section.It explains unloading/reloading the rockers.
Another good idea is to super glue the cork end gaskets in place,dad a
glob of silicone where the heads meet the block and silicone around the
water passages.

Here is my post from awhile back

>>>>>My 428 is giving me fits.
>>>>>Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8.
>>>>>I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
>>>>>(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt)
>>>>>MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
>>>>>Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all
>>>>>the passages.
>>>>>Ran a compression and leak down test.
>>>>>Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
>>>>>Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods.
>>>>>Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down
>>>>>equally,so the cam seems to be OK
>>>>>I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I
>>>>>changed them .No help.
>>>>>Checked for slop in timing chain.
>>>>>Every thing checked out and it still did not run right.

The problems were
1 Weak valve springs.
One of the springs broke so I called AIMS machine in Reno who did the
machine work on my engine and sold me the rest of the parts six years
ago.
He said to pull the head and bring it in and he would check it out.
I brought in and they replaced the broke spring,checked the others.
The others had only #50 pressure and it is supposed to be #100.I
then brought themthe other head and the springs were bad too.They
replaced all the springs,cleaned up the heads and valves to like new
condition and reassembled.
2 Bent pushrods
While at the shop he asked me to carefully check my pushrods.I did so
and was surprised to find 4 that were bent so slightly that when you
rolled them they looked fine.They were only a few .000 out.
The machinist told me that if you leave ANY gas in your truck for over
6 months it will not mix with the new gas.When you shut the engine
off the old
gas will form a varnish on the valve guides and when you restart the
engine
the valve will momentary stick in the guide,bending the pushrod.
He set me up with 16 new pushrods,installed 16 new springs,intake and
exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover and head gaskets.Bill for parts
and labor were
a grand total of $0!!!Six years after he did the work he warranteed
everything!!!
While I had the everything out of the way I put some headers on it.That
is a whole "nuther chapter tho....
It was quite a project,but now the truck really runs fantastic!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: FE intake/problem solved/great service
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:11:15 -0700


> > >I plan on installing a Edlebrock 600 cfm 4bbl,
> > >performer intake manifold, timing chain and gears, and of the
> associated
> > >chrome.
>
> I just put a Performer on my 428(can't tell it from a 360 either).
> I would recommend getting the bolt set from Edelbrock for the
> intake.The
> stock ones were not quite the right length for mine and Edelbrock bolts
> have a 3/8" head which makes torquing them down easier.
> You also need to check out the "FEs that bend pushrods"article in the
> FTE tech.articles section.It explains unloading/reloading the rockers.
> Another good idea is to super glue the cork end gaskets in place,dad a
> glob of silicone where the heads meet the block and silicone around the
> water passages.
>
[Wallen, Jason NC1] Hey thanks for the feedback. I'm sure it will
help this rusty wrench turner.

[Wallen, Jason ABH1] Has anyone ever installed a Edlebrock 600 cfm
carb. In the instructions they said to use an adapter plate with an
automatic tranny. When I got the part it's just a little piece of metal with
three holes. I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get in the engine.

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: World of Wheels
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:06:48 -0400

I just got back from the Spring Grand Run in Pigeon Forge,Tenn. Talk about
AWESOME!!!! There was all kinds of machines there. It started on Wed. &
went thru Sat. It was held at the Grand Resort Hotel but it was packed wall
to wall on the main strip in Pigeon Forge.Loved every minute of it.Have 2
tapes from my cam-corder from the show & all the cruising that went on.Will
be going back next year.I'm also going down this July again to Pigeon Forge
to the Grand Trucking Nationals held at the Grand Resort Hotel from July
14th-16th.This show is open to any truck that has ever been produced.Will be
the 2nd year for this show-it was packed last year.
-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 2:13 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: World of Wheels


>> The World of Wheels came through here last weekend and we were able to
get a
>> few pics, thought some of you might find it interesting :
>>
>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/Www2/Images/Wow/index.html
>>
>> Enjoy
>>
>> Just my $.02
>> wish
>
>Thanks, Bill, I did enjoy.
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
>1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:03:44 EDT
Subject: Re: T-Shirts

In a message dated 4/17/2000 10:48:14 AM EST, theodore ford-trucks.com writes:

<< I've found it hard to find any '61-'66 t-shirts and such. Here's a place
that's got a bunch of Ford Truck and other Ford shirts.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://printweargraphics.safeshopper.com/35/cat35.htm?724

Ted >>

Way to go Ted ! Really cool sight !!! I've been
looking for this for a long time . Thanks

Steve 64 F100 460 ci

------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUTaol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:07:45 EDT
Subject: Re: tilt steering

The 2wd Column that you have has a rag joint on the end of it. This rag
joint goes between the bottom of the steering column & the Power Steering
Box. All that you have to do is remove that rag joint, and it will bolt into
place. As far as the Cruise Control, it is pretty easy to do. You will have
to get all the Cruise stuff off the motor, vacuum lines, and the whole wiring
harness from the truck. The cruise wires are intertwined within the standard
harness, and must be unwrapped to get them out. When I put cruise in my
cousins 1979 F-250 4x4, all that was done was to swap harness's. That was
the easiest I have found to do it. Another part I had to do was switch the
brake pedal because of how the Cruise Control "Kick-Off" Switch is mounted.
It mounts to a pin that is welded to the pedal. The switch does not have to
be there, but if you forget to turn it off while coming up on
traffic...you'll plow into them. I suggest putting the switch in as I did
for safety. If there are any questions, Just ask!!!!!
Wayne Grabley
1979 Bronco XLT
1979 F-350 Ranger Lariet 4x4
1979 F-350 Ranger XLT 2wd Crew Cab

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: World Ford Challenge
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:18:41 -0400

I will be at Pigeon Forge having the time of my life for the second year in
a row.
-----Original Message-----
From: wish ford-trucks.net>
To: "61-79-listford-trucks.com;perf-list"ford-trucks.com;;;
<"61-79-listford-trucks.com;perf-list"ford-trucks.com;;;>
Date: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 9:57 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] World Ford Challenge


>
>
>I know this is the same weekend as Pigeon Forge, so there probably aren't a
>lot of you, but just talked to Dad last night and it turns out we're going.
> Not goin to be racing, just roaming around lookin at the racing and the
cars.
>
>
>Anyone from here gonna be headin down ?
>
>
>
>Just my $.02
>wish
>
>96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
>73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
>Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 23:05:46 EDT
Subject: pigeon forge

when is the pig forg show?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:09:59 -0500
From: "Charles D. Childers, Jr." pdq.net>
Subject: Re: Farm and Ranch Special

Man, that is too cool!!! I now have a new quest! Finding one of these gems!
Thanks for the info.

Charles Childers

Dan Herrmann wrote:

> Page 10 of the `69 Ford Truck Sales Brochure shows pictures of the Farm &
> Ranch and Contractor Special packaged trucks. There was also a Heavy Duty
> special package as well.
>
> The Farm & Ranch came standard with: HD Battery, HD Alternator, HD Front &
> Rear springs, rear Step Bumper, Bright b/s Moldings, Dual chrome Western
> swing-lock Mirrors, Front & 9-inch high side Cargo boards and the F&R
> special insignia on the cowl side.
>
> The Contractor Special came with: HD Front & Rear Springs, Step Bumper,
> Convenience group of choice, Dual chrome Western s/l mirrors, Contractor
> tool boxes on both sides of the bed with key-lock fold-down doors and
> insignia on cowl side. Was also offered with a second package which
> included the Under-Hood Electric Power Pak.
>
> All three models was offered with Standard, Custom Cab & Ranger models. My
> brother used to have a 68' F&R 3/4 ton that had a "Farm & Ranch" Decal on
> the back bedside where the Ranger nameplate would normally be.
>
> Dan Herrmann
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 23:09:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: pigeon forge

At 11:05 PM 4/17/00 -0400, you wrote:
>when is the pig forg show?

Check out the Events Forum on the web message boards. FTE and AFTE have
plans for the show.

Ken



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:34:23 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: Break In Oil

At 09:12 AM 4/17/00 -0400, you wrote:
>It won't be long before my 410 will be ready for it's mainden firing and I
>need some advice on break in oil. My cam manufacturer is recommending an SE
>or SF grade oil. All I can find is SJ or SH. The parts guy said as long as
>lettering was above SE or SF I would be fine.

======================================================

Ted, your parts man and another FTE member is correct, anything above an SE
or SF Grade motor oil will do the job for you. API Service Specifications
change periodically as the need for a higher spec oil grows for new cars
from the manufactures. Today's oil's do come out with a higher SJ API
Service spec. Some makers have stayed with a slightly lower SH Formula. I'm
not an expert by any means, but I do have 13 years in as an Operations
Manager with a Large Corporate National Lubricants Company.

Good Luck!

Dan Herrmann



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:58:10 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Speaking of Oil...


Many of you may have noticed some additional "sticker shock" when picking
up a few bottles of your favorite motor oil. It might be a good time for
some of you to consider picking up an extra case or taking advantage of any
local specials. Prices on Motor Oil have went through the roof since last
Fall. The days of finding your Favorite Major brand oil on sale for 99
cents a bottle is long gone. Castrol has been leading the game with all the
other major brands following close by within a few days. We seen 2-3
Increases during the last quarter of `99 and as many as 4 increases
already this year with Castrol announcing another increase at the first of
May. Forecasts are predicting as many as 5-6 more increases yet this year.

We often see the price of Oil go up whenever the price at the pump is high,
but we NEVER see it come back down when the pump price does. We have also
seen mega mergers in the oil business recently; Shell/Texaco,
Pennzoil/Quaker State and Mobil/Citgo just to name a few. These mega
companies have closed distribution centers/warehouses, packaging facilities
and laid-off hundreds of workers. So with their cost going down why is the
price going up?

Dan Herrmann




------------------------------

From: "Tim Neasham" 3-cities.com>
Subject: Using vacuum to set timing...
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 22:03:21 -0700

I remember reading somewhere in my travels about using a vacuum gauge to set
your timing. If I remember correctly the book said to set the idle at 500,
advance the timing a few deg., reset idle to 500, all the while watching
manifold vacuum. Once vacuum reaches it's peak and idle is still at 500,
retard the timing until the vacuum drops an inch or so. Anyone on here
remember seeing or reading about this? This supposedly gives you the max
advance without knock.

Thanks.....

Tim Neasham
Benton City, Washington
'69 F-250 Camper Special


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Using vacuum to set timing...
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 06:05:34 -0400

HI TIM
YES I used to setup my race car this way when i had one MYSELF i think it
works better than with a timing light BUT when setting the timing you also
need to set the carb up as well or at least check it to see if it is
accurate what i would do is set the timing to MAX vacuume then set the carb
for MAX vacuume and then recheck it all again just to be sure of my settings
this method will compensate for wear of the timing chain and other internal
parts as well
gordon
69f 100
79f 100
62 t bird
88 merc



> I remember reading somewhere in my travels about using a vacuum gauge to
set
> your timing. If I remember correctly the book said to set the idle at
500,
> advance the timing a few deg., reset idle to 500, all the while watching
> manifold vacuum. Once vacuum reaches it's peak and idle is still at 500,
> retard the timing until the vacuum drops an inch or so. Anyone on here
> remember seeing or reading about this? This supposedly gives you the max
> advance without knock.
>
> Thanks.....
>
> Tim Neasham
> Benton City, Washington
> '69 F-250 Camper Special
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:15 -0400
From: BECKER-JEFFREY macktrucks.com>
Subject: Re: Break In Oil

--- Received from MACDGA.JB1882H 301-790-5580 00-04-18 08:15

I have always been told that a high detergent mineral based oil is
best for break-in. This will scrub the engine clean while the
rings seat. In particular, heavy duty diesel engine oil is highest
in these detergents. Look for an API CH-4 category such as Mobil
Delvac 1300 Super. These oils are designed to go up to 30,000
miles in a Semi before changing. (but don't think you can get away
with that interval in a street truck - break in period on mineral
oil is what? - 500 miles?). > Jeff


> From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
> Subject: Re: Break In Oil
> Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:42:49 -0700
>
> Crower recommends 30 or 40 wt SD or SE. I believe the parts guy
> is right about the letters, it just depends on the year the info

> was printed. The thing that's important according to Crower is
> that you should use the single vis not multi vis for the added
> "shear resistance" during break in. They also highly recommend >
using an "oil conditioner".

---- 00-04-18 08:15 ---- Sent to ---------------------------
-> 61-79-list(a)ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: breakin oil
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:44:39 -0400

Ted F. writes: >>My cam manufacturer is recommending an SE
or SF grade oil. All I can find is SJ or SH. The parts guy said as long
as
lettering was above SE or SF I would be fine.<<

Your parts guy is correct. The rating must be that or above, if my
understanding is correct. I think this is related to sulfur and ash
content, but I can't be sure of that. I've always been led to believe that
if the letter was higher, then it covered the requirements of the lower
letter!!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Humbling experiences
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:03:43 -0400

Greg writes:>>Just when I was getting a little too arrogant about my
mechanical knowledge I just
had a humbling experience. I grossly misdiagnosed what I believed to be a
timing
problem on my 79 f100 300 I6, C6. After driving at highway speeds for about
an hour I
noticed I had used about twice the fuel I normally do. I stopped and fueled
up and
couldn't get it restarted. I had to advance the timing dramatically then it
ran fine.
I adjusted the carb and decided that one of the timing gears had lost teeth
(no
timing chain in the 300). Just by luck I mentioned this to a far more
knowledgable
person than myself who suggested checking the ignition system. Sure enough
the coil
had leaked. I changed the coil, readjusted the timing and away it went. I
have for
years thought that a coil was good or dead. I guess there are a number of
morals to
the story and I am going to remind myself again and again to check more
thoroughly
before jumping to conclusions.<<

Reminds me of 3 years ago when my Son and I had just completed
building/installing the 460 in his '79 F350 4X4. It cranked great and ran
great until it got good and warm, then it gave us fits. The timing was so
far advanced that we got valve rattle under cruise, and really got nasty
sounds when accelerating. We did everything imaginable, and some that
weren't even imagineable. The coil was new, so we said to ourselves, it
can't be the coil.. After many hours of labor, taking the front covers off
and verifying the timing, trying 130 octane aircraft fuel, we finally
changed out the coil and it has been running fine ever since. Now I'm 63
years old and this is the 1st time that has ever occurred with me. Never
too old to learn I guess..
Anyway!! Coils can do some weird stuff, so don't ever rule them out..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 12:32:01 GMT
Subject: Re: rear axle decoding



>I had to remove the plate from my differential to read it.
>Can anyone decode this for me or direct me to a soarce?
>
>WDM CJ 8LA
>2 75 9 356A
>
I'm not gonna be a lot of help here, but I'll tell you that you likely have
2.75 gears if they are still stock (as in un-changed from the tag specs) ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:47:46 -0400
From: j arnold ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 460 Pilot Bearing


Here's a question for some of the old 460 crowd (Gary, Azie, yaull still
out there?) For the early 429/460's, there are pilot BUSHINGS and pilot
BEARINGS, at least two or three sizes of each. Has anyone figured out how
to tell which is needed for what application? I've kept having to use trial
and error. First find what size fits end of crank, then fitting trans and
engine together and trying bushings and bearings till one feels right. Is
there a system to this? If so, what?

stoney


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: EGR info
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:47:55 -0400

None Ford Truck experience.

Last week I ran into something new that I feel is worth sharing. My
Father-in-law has a non Ford truck. '90 model V6 automatic TBI. All of a
sudden while they were in town the truck began to stutter and die every
time they sopped at a traffic light or anywhere else. Being as my in laws
are in their 80's, it upset them very much and of course I got the
assignment to correct it. I swapped trucks with them temporarily so I
could "diagnose" the problem with theirs. It took me three days and
several component swaps to isolate the problem. The symptoms were simply
that it would not idle after reaching normal operating temp. Cold it idled
fine. The problem turned out to be the EGR valve. It was not closing as
it should have after coming to an idle. This vehicle has a bult in
computer code readout, but there was no code fault code. I would have
thought that the computer would have a code for this problem, but not so.
Any way, for those of us that still try to keep our vehicles emissions
friendly and have an EGR valve on it, this is worth filing away in the
memory bank. This is the 1st time I've ever had an EGR problem..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:00:14 -0500
From: Dwight Comfort tic.bisman.com>
Subject: Re: 1977 F100 questions

> RE: 1977 F100 Custom Explorer

>Questions:
>...

>3) Dual gas tanks?? There is a slot on the right side of the HVAC
>controls which is labeled "Fuel/Aux". Looks like it had a switch
>there at one time. Is this for duel tanks? Or was there a reserve
>cell within the main tank? I only see one fuel filler flap on the
>left rear of my truck.

>Thanks Mucho, Jeff, Charles Town, WV

Jeff,
I have a 75 F250 SC Ranger, with dual tanks and the switch near the HVAC
(right side on mine) switches the gauge and the tanks at the same time. My
tanks have separate fillers, both on left side of box with auxillary
midway between front of box and wheel well, main behind wheel well .
Perhaps your PO replaced the box and changed the fuel tanks?


Dwight Comfort
Proud owner of:
1975 F250 SC LWB 460-4bbl V8
1999 Excort ZX2 Sport 122-EFI I4



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: tilt steering
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 07:03:20 -0700


>
> i have located a tilt wheel in a 78 xlt lariat, 2 wheel
> drive. can this
> wheel be adapted to my 4 wheel drive, the truck also has
> cruise control and
> i'd like to put it all on mine
>
> jeff grant

I don't know about the wheel or column but I have done the cruise control
swap. If you need any pointers let me know. If you have the entire truck
it is better cause there are some things you should swap that you won't
think of (like the brake booster and brake pedal!!).

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: tilting suspension
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 07:03:25 -0700


>
> My 77 explorer is starting to tilt to the driver side and I'm
> sure that I
> still have the original suspension from factory. Here's my
> question, if I
> change springs does anybody on the list has recommendations
> on types of
> springs, bushings, shocks etc. Also wondering, while I'm
> doing this is there
> anything I should change out or look to change out while I'm doing the
> other.

If you are going to replace the springs it wouldn't be much more trouble to
remove the I-Beam (it is a 2WD right?) and replace the end pivot bushing.
And hey, while you have it out take it down to a machine shop and have them
press out the king pins and ream it for a new one.

Tom H

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:20:32 -0700
From: "JBMCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: 72 460 hp?


Does anyone know what the stock HP of a 72 460 is?

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:30:54 -0500
From: Bruce Montcombroux BrandonU.CA>
Subject: 78 4x4

Hey folks,
I have not posted to the list in ages..been out driving. :] The odometer
turned 60 000 miles yesterday, at the price of one front wheel bearing,
connecting rod for the clutch and a u-joint.

My question is: what would the stock steering set-up be like on a 78 4x4?
Don’t know squat about 4x4’s but have a found a potentially sweet deal. My
main concern is that my 65 twin-beam ‘armstrong’ steering is lots of fun
but….Is the 78 4x4 a solid axle/ball joint set-up and how does handle at
highway speeds?

Bruce
65 Mercury I6 240 P/U



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 10:57:57 -0400
From: Shawn Flaugher bigfoot.com>
Subject: 351 ('73) cam replacement

Greetings,
Well, I have managed to purchase
a '73 with a 351 (I'm 90% sure it's the 351 not 350)
with newly rebuilt heads for $600.
BUT, there is the matter of the pesky sticking (collapsed?)
lifter.

SO,, I've decided to do a cam replacement along with the lifters and
rods.
An "engine guru" friend recommended the Comp 488 lift.
I need a cam that will bring out the power and torque of the 351,
but not go overboard, and cost me a fortune in gas money.

What I need to know is anything I need to watch out for
in undertaking this endeavor.
(working on this engine as opposed to my '71 302)

In the process, I was thinking about replacing the timing
chain with a timing gear. (comments?)

I would be thankful for any advice anyone can give me on
this project.
I have only done cam work in total rebuild type settings, and
not as a stand alone project.
I would also like to know how to tell the difference between
the 350 and 351.

Thanks in advance!!
-Shawn

------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Edlebrock heads
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 07:58:00 -0700

Has anybody used the Edlebrock "Performer RPM FE" heads on a 390? If so how
did they work, and how much effort is need to install?

Jason

------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: breakin oil
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:11:21 -0400


Thanks folks for your input and knowledge.

I thought that the SJ would be fine but wasn't sure. I knew someone on the
list would know!

Thanks again!

-Ted


------------------------------

From: "Bob" home.com>
Subject: 460 horsepower
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 11:35:10 -0400

I have a 460 on my trailer and am waiting for the time (and money) to get it
in.
I contacted holley, and asked them what would be the best intake and cam for
my 460 and holley 750 carb. They said this: "The best intake for that
application will be part number 8312, the best cam would be part number
00097LK, this will have the springs, lifters, retainers an locks."
I was wondering if anyone knew aprox. how many ponies this'll put out. OR
if anyone has other suggestions for even more!?!
This is my first time really messing around with a project this big.

your thoughts are greatly appreciated

-bob-

79 Bronco
8" lift 40" hawgs
460 on the trailer


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 09:35:33 -0600
From: "Richard Currit" state.wy.us>
Subject: Performance Radiator

Hey all, I asked a question about performance radiator a while back and
thought I would give an update. I decided to give it a shot and am very
pleased so far. Ordered a 3 core for F series trucks with a 300 I6.
Received it UPS the very next day. It is a Modine unit. Now comes the
interesting part, tho they don't tell you this, the rad appears to be
for an F350 application. I have an F100. Both hoses are attached to
the passenger side of the radiator, no problem, I just bought hoses for
an F350, perfect fit. However, the mounting brackets are on the other
side of the radiator tank. Or, how do I say, instead of having the
radiator stick out from the mounting surface into the engine bay, it is
made to sit flush with the mounting surface. Luckily, there are extra
holes in the mounting surface which line up perfectly with those on the
new radiator. But I had to make mounts for it. I used pressure treated
2x4's. Now don't laugh to hard, it worked perfect. I am still amazed
that I pulled it off. I did have to rip them down to 2 3/4 ", and dado
the length of the board in order to get a proper fit. I actually ended
up with an extra 1/4" of clearance between the radiator and the fan. I
now cannot get the temp gauge to move once the thermostat opens up. No
more overheating problems!!!!! And the rad is mounted far more solid
than the stock one ever felt. Just thought I would let everyone know of
another alternative.
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 08:51:47 -0700
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: 72 460 hp?

The specs show a 72 having 212 hp 4400 rpm and 342 lb/ft torque 2800
rpm. Keep in mind that these are SAE numbers.
Jason

JBMCIWorld wrote:

> Does anyone know what the stock HP of a 72 460 is?
>
> jeff
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 15:12:48 GMT
Subject: Re: 351 ('73) cam replacement

>SO,, I've decided to do a cam replacement along with the lifters and
>rods.

>What I need to know is anything I need to watch out for
>in undertaking this endeavor.
>(working on this engine as opposed to my '71 302)
>

Is this 351 a W or an M ? I'm not familiar enough to know off hand which it
would be ... to tell the difference quickly look at the thermostat housing,
if it bolts down onto the block, then its an M, if it bolts back onto the intake
manifold its a W, if its a W, its a lot like your 302 inside ... just a wider
block :)

>In the process, I was thinking about replacing the timing
>chain with a timing gear. (comments?)
>

This is probably not an all bad idea, and you'll have most of those parts off
anyway, so while you're in there ...

>I would also like to know how to tell the difference between
>the 350 and 351.

Well the 350 has a GM part number on it and 2 ports close together in the center
of the head ... I'm guessing you really want to know how to tell the difference
between the 3 different 351's that Ford offered ... see above for that ... the
C and the M are very close to each other and I am not qualified to identify
between those two ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 15:21:28 GMT
Subject: Re: 78 4x4

> My question is: what would the stock steering set-up be like on a 78 4x4?
>Don’t know squat about 4x4’s but have a found a potentially sweet deal. My

>main concern is that my 65 twin-beam ‘armstrong’ steering is lots of fun
>but….Is the 78 4x4 a solid axle/ball joint set-up and how does handle at
>highway speeds?
>

I don't have this system yet, but its very similar to what I do have as far
as layout is. A 4x4 uses a "monobeam" front axle, that is its all one piece
all the way across ...the tie-rods are in front of this assembly and the oil
pan is a rear sump to accomodate everything. The steering box is farther forward
I think than what you have on the 2wd so that would require some drilling and
a steering shaft ... the 1/2tons use a coil spring system with huge trailing
arms to help hold the axle, along with a track bar to keep things under the
front and not sliding off to the side ...

The ride's probably not much different other than bumps causing more steering
issues. When I get on gravel with the wash board surfaces the front and rear
both dance around 'cause of the solid axles, with the front independent you
get better control. There are lots of other issues to consider too, such as
the transfer case and drive shafts ... the control stick through the floor,
etc. ... just a large undertaking is all, I'm sure it can all be done.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: pigeon forge
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 12:50:46 -0400

July 14th-16th.
-----Original Message-----
From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com aol.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, April 17, 2000 11:07 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] pigeon forge


>when is the pig forg show?
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:35:18 -0400

Joe,

Go to www.ford-trucks.com/afte/oldparts/oldparts.htm and follow the AC Pics
Page link and it'll take you to the pics.

The first 6 pics are of Stu's '71 and the last three are pics of my '68.

If you compare pic #6 to the last three you'll see the differences in the
way Stu's A/C in his '71 gets mounted versus my '68.

If you have more questions, feel free to ask!

Good Luck!

-Ted





>Thanks TED
>Joe
>
>Ted and Sarah Freeman wrote:
>
>> I've got them buried right now. I try and dig them out and get them
posted.
>>



------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: pigeon forge
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:47:36 -0400

Tim,

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim and Pam Allgire williams-net.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 11:44 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: pigeon forge


>July 14th-16th.

The F100 Super Nats are May 18-21st in Pigeon Forge at the Grand Hotel.

-Ted


------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: trouble while towing
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 15:21:34 -0500

Hi All,
I realize that I am crossing the lists here with this post but was wondering
if someone could help. I recently purchased a 96 F150 SC 5.0, and have found
that when I tow my boat the check engine light comes on. The next day the
light goes off, does any one or has any one seen this before. Any help would
be highly appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6
96 F150 SC 5.0


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 16:03:34 -0500
Subject: Re: trouble while towing
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> Hi All,
> I realize that I am crossing the lists here with this post but was wondering
> if someone could help. I recently purchased a 96 F150 SC 5.0, and have found
> that when I tow my boat the check engine light comes on. The next day the
> light goes off, does any one or has any one seen this before. Any help would
> be highly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Rozell
> 65 F100 460 C6
> 96 F150 SC 5.0
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
Paul,

On my 88 Towncar there is an oil level sensor like you have. The mark on
the dipstick is incorrect on mine. I changed the oil, put in 5 quarts, then
marked the dipstick. No more problems. The boat ramp is activating the
switch because of the steep grade.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 14:59:33 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: trouble while towing

OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> I realize that I am crossing the lists here with this post but was wondering
> if someone could help. I recently purchased a 96 F150 SC 5.0, and have found
> that when I tow my boat the check engine light comes on. The next day the
> light goes off, does any one or has any one seen this before. Any help would
> be highly appreciated.

I dont know what causes it, but that light is on a lot of the time in
some of the older taxicabs and the driver trainer of a cab company here
tells his new drivers to ignore it.

He also tells them that if the Check Guages light comes on it is
extremely serious and they could be liable for a new engine if they
continue to drive it.

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K last time I noticed.

------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 18:08:39 EDT
Subject: Re: pigeon forge

In a message dated 4/18/2000 11:46:21 AM EST, tim-pamwilliams-net.com writes:

<< 61-79-list] Re: pigeon forge
Date: 4/18/2000 11:46:21 AM EST
From: tim-pamwilliams-net.com (Tim and Pam Allgire)
Sender: 61-79-list-bounceford-trucks.com
Reply-to: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com

July 14th-16th. >>

Wrong !! May 18 ,19, 20, 21 ......

------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" hotmail.com>
Subject: For Sale
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 15:17:59 PDT

I have got a 78 F-100 pickup that is for sale. The cab is next to decent
considering there is no fenders. I have the fenders but they are not on the
truck as of now. The box and rear half of the frame is rather rough. It
does not have an engine, but the rest of it is there. The tranny is
perfect. The rear differential is also perfect, well in diar need of paint.
The 9 incher isn't locked. The truck is located in Central Ontario
Canada. Selling for parts or whole. I am asking 200 Canadian for the
truck. Or parting out.
I have also engine parts from a 302 for sale.

Let me know if you want it, off post.
Thanks

Mark Mcknight
69 Dod*e Charger
78 F-100
85 F-150

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

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